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jschildm
10-30-2012, 07:37 PM
My trailer brakes haven't worked since I bought the boat. I have a 1998 205 and pull it with F350, so the extra stopping power didnt bother me all that much. The fact that they don't work has finally gotten to me though (d$$$ you MCOCD). The reservour is dry, so I am guess that I would likely be looking at a actuator and complete rebuild. I hate messing with drum brakes, and know that for not much more money I can do a disc conversion.

Now to the point ... does anyone have experience with different kits that are availabe? I have seen a few searching through this forum and just online, but would like to get some feedback from people that have tried the different systems.

Thanks - John

Cloaked
10-30-2012, 07:40 PM
Pacific Trailers...

all depends on the make of what is there now for a like-for-like replacement.

I like the hydraulic surge system and discs. You should be able to convert for less than $500 all things included.

.

bturner2
10-31-2012, 07:59 AM
I converted over to discs on my 95 Maristar after years of adjusting and marginal braking performance of the drum breaks that were standard. Wow what a difference. I've worked with Kodiak and UFP and both were high quality. Assuming you currently have a UFP actuator and you'll effectively be replacing everything from the actuator back I'd go with the UFP set up. You should just be able to pull the pins on the actuator and slide out the old and slide in the new disc break actuator. You will however need to add a reverse solenoid as the disc brakes will not slip like the drums when you start backing up. This will also mean adding wiring for the solenoid and converting over to 5 pin connector which isn't be a big deal.

X2 on Pacific Trailer. Waymires also has great service but pricing at Pacific Trailer seems much better.

Ski-me
10-31-2012, 09:16 AM
What about California Trailer Works? They seem to have some good prices as well.....

https://caltrailerworks.com/online/product.php?productid=16305&cat=359&page=1

pram
10-31-2012, 12:37 PM
I have dealt with both Pacific and California (bought complete systems from both of them)

Pacific didn't seem to want to answer my questions, or go above and beyond this last time. I wanted an A-60 hinged with a weld on flange, and Pacific wouldn't even get me a price on it. California Trailer Works was helpful and willing to go above on this, prices are the same from either I found

jschildm
10-31-2012, 03:55 PM
Good responses. Thanks for the experiences and info.

93Prostar190
11-01-2012, 11:16 PM
When I did this on my 93 trailer, I think I dealt directly with UFP ....... It was a great experience and a very worthwhile upgrade.

Good luck, post some project pics!

jschildm
04-28-2013, 10:06 PM
Finally bought the kit. I will try and remember to take some pictures while I am doing it.

Ski-me
04-29-2013, 09:35 AM
What kit and what lines did you end up going with? I've had some issues with mine.....mainly being the flaring on each end. Long story but I think I'm getting it figured out.

jschildm
04-29-2013, 02:57 PM
Well, I ended getting the UFP kit from Pacific Trailers which includes a couple thermo-plastic brake lines and the distribution block. Any more details on what you are specifically having trouble with?

Ski-me
04-29-2013, 03:29 PM
Yea, no problem. It's basically the flare on the Stainless steel lines vs. the standard, coated lines. I think the tee's and fittings are set up for the standard lines. So, when I sinched everything down, most of the connections leaked. So I go around and start cranking on each of the connections. Some quit, but others still leaked.

Finally decided to remove all lines and re-flare everything myself. Definitely looked better and sealed up "a little".....however, when I originally cranked things down, I crushed the fitting from the SS line. So, even with the new flare, it still leaked.

So, I basically wripped everything out (lines included) and re-did everything. Just got standard lines from Autozone that had flares already done. Got new tees and got 90% done yesterday. I'm still waiting for the fittings on the calipers....yes, I crushed 2 or 3 of those too.

Should have those later this week and finally get this thing done! I hate brake fluid!!

On a good note, at least the thermo-plastic didn't leak! :) So you're good there.

jschildm
04-29-2013, 04:49 PM
I always get worried about flared fittings when I am messing with them. Seems like a lot of times there is a fine line between tightening enough to seal and tightening enough to crush ....

jschildm
05-17-2013, 12:29 PM
Well I have looked through the box of parts and I believe its all there. I might have been able to save some money if I had paid more attention to what actually comes in the kit. I was expecting to be replacing just the actuator, but it come with the entire inner member. Thats fine, as it will make the installation much quicker. It also come with the "bolt-on" outer member, but my trailer has a flip-up tongue, so I believe I will have to re-use my existing outer member. Other than that the brake lines, calipers, rotors, bearings, etc were all there. Now I just need to decide when I am going to get it on there. Maybe work on it some while camping over memorial day. It would be nice to work on it without the boat on it. Sometime I relax the best when I am working on stuff anyways. Does anyone have any other pointers or insights that might help to talk this. I would do it this weekend, but I got t-boned when a lady ran a redlight, so I hope to get the car back together this weekend.

jschildm
04-07-2014, 02:57 PM
I have a quick update related to this (not so quick, in hind sight). I had installed the hubs, rotors, bearings last year out of necessity, but finally finished the rest of the install this weekend. The installation of the parts was a breeze. Calipers bolted right on. I was either missing or lost one of the brake lines, but I was able to make one of the originals work. I didn't take pictures like I said I would though, sorry. I am not very good at that part.

As mentioned, last year I did the bearings and rotors. That was just the same as with any trailer hubs and went smoothly. This weekend, I started by adding the brake hardware ... pull the tire, the calipers are already loaded so its two mounting bolts to bolt them on. Then go to the other side and do the same. Then I pulled the lines through the frame by taping the flex line to the existing line at the tongue. I then pulled the old line out with the new attached and that worked flawlessly. I hooked up the lines to the brake hardware installed previously. Next I installed the inner tongue member onto the existing tongue. The old brake line was already removed to pull it though. Then simply pull a couple snap rings, slide the pins out, and the whole thing slides forward and out of the tongue. I installed the new member in the same manner. Before hooking up the new flex line, add oil and bleed the actuator. Then install the line at the tongue, and its time for the fun part, filling/bleeding the whole system. Use your screw driver and an extra person to pump the actuator while the help opens/closes the bleeder valve on the furthest caliper (loosen the valve when pushing in, and then tighten prior to releasing). Repeat this process until you get fluid out without any bubbles (you will have to add brake fluid multiple times as the lines fill). Move on to the other brake doing the same.

For my install, I also re-did the wiring at the tongue to add a wire for the back-up solenoid. I removed a few extra splices and changed from a 4 wire plug to a 7 wire plug (only using 5 locations). I was able to tidy up the wiring some as well as make it longer (some friends trucks were very close to not reaching before).

By far the longest part was bleeding the system. You can use a screw driver to pump the actuator, but it still takes a while to get the whole system filled and bled. I just made a quick trip taking it back to the storage unit so I don't have much in the way of results yet. The drum brakes hadn't worked since I owned the trailer, but it seemed to stop better and was way more cushioned on speeding up and slowing down than in the past. I will have to keep an eye on lines, connections, and oil levels to ensure I don't have any leaks.

Sorry for the cluttered summary and lack of pictures. If anyone has questions I will try my best to answer. I am glad the parts are installed and functioning though. At least I got it done in less than a year.

CC2MC
04-07-2014, 09:48 PM
I may have some questions for you coming up bc I am supposed to get my new hubs and calipers in this week. I plan to install on Friday assuming they come in on time. I need to get another reverse solenoid as it has broken loose but I can't figure out how to get to everything to replace it. I think I will end up just riding with no brakes for now just to get it to the lake. I will worry about getting the rest of the parts later.

jschildm
04-09-2014, 09:53 AM
If you unhook the line coming off of the reverse solenoid that goes back towards the axles and pull the pins through the tongue; you should be able to slide the whole inner part (slides in and out to activate the brakes) out of the tongue and replace any parts as needed. You can get a whole new inner member that would make replacement a breeze, or you could get individual parts like reverse solenoid, actuator if you need it, shock absorber, etc. Replacing the individual parts as needed would be cheapest, but replacing the whole inner member includes all those parts and is really simple. This page should have about everything you need ... Pacific Trailers (http://www.pacifictrailers.com/UFP-A-60-Brake-Actuator-Replacement-Parts-for-Disc-Drum-brakes/).

This will be the first time I have had functioning brakes on a boat trailer with either of the two I have owned, and it has never been a huge issue, so I don't think its the end of the world to do if that's what it takes to get on the water. I do pull mine with a 1 ton diesel though.