View Full Version : Replacement seat on 96 MC PS 190
09-02-2004, 10:13 AM
I'm looking for a new backseat for my prostar 190. Anyone know where to find one, or does anyone have on elaying around they would want to sell. I don't care what color it is, i'll re-vinyl it. Just need the frame. I think anything from 94/95 up would fit in mine. email me @ firstname.lastname@example.org
09-02-2004, 10:19 AM
dont know if this helps you??
09-02-2004, 10:41 AM
I saw that one on ebay. that is a diffent style than mine. Mine is just a flat bench acroos the back that doubles as a seat as well as an extension for a sundeck
09-02-2004, 11:18 AM
I think that makes yours a 95 and up?? I'll keep an eye out.
09-02-2004, 11:44 AM
If your just looking for the base, your most economical option may be to get a piece of good quality 3/4 plywood (7layer, BB or better). Waterproof it and your done. If you get alot of people stepping on the back seat, I'd consider installing a piece of Aluminum angle iron underneath to stiffen it up.
east tx skier
09-02-2004, 11:56 AM
Didn't the new back seat design begin in 96? I know the major design change of the period was 95 for the 190, but I could've sworn I saw a 95 190 Bud Boat for sale last spring that still had the styrofoam seat enclosure as opposed to the rails and convertible sundeck-style back seat cushion.
09-02-2004, 11:59 AM
I'd rather find a mastercraft seat to keep th boat "wood free" I had though about using 1/2 inch plywood, reinfoced with 2x4's underneath. this will also stop any lateral movement when I'm using the seat as an extended sundeck. And then cover the whole thing in fiberglass resin
east tx skier
09-02-2004, 12:14 PM
I replaced a bit of floorboard in an old I/O we sold to buy the MC. We used 1/2" treated plywood and coated it top, bottom and sides with marine epoxy. If you can get dimensions for the seat base, the design you've got should work fine as nearly as I can tell.
09-02-2004, 02:42 PM
i have a friend with the same boat, his is a 95, mine 96 his seat fits perfect, up top and on the bottom
east tx skier
09-02-2004, 03:10 PM
But does he have the same setup for the seat to sit on, or does it slide onto a couple of side rails like yours does? If it's the latter, then 95 was the first year for that. If it's the former, you could possibly extend your search back a few years (in other words, the cushions might not have changed).
09-02-2004, 04:02 PM
his seat fits perfectly down on the rails below as a seat, and rests perfectly on top for an extended sundeck. It is the same design, or close enough.
east tx skier
09-02-2004, 05:10 PM
Here's a picture of a 95 Prostar 190 rear seat. Looks like they changed the design somewhere between 95 and 98 so that you could store things under the seat cushion on the floor when the seat was installed. That was the source of my confusion. However, the cushions look similar. My bet is that a 94 or earlier back seat would be too narrow for your 96, but I could be wrong.
09-03-2004, 01:08 PM
I had to replace the back seat in my '96 190 about 2 years ago. I ordered a new one from MC Boats in Arkansas and then put the original skins back on. If my memory serves me correct, the cost including freight was around $300.
09-03-2004, 06:53 PM
Anam, I have the seat you need, but it comes with the rest of the boat, which I'm selling. Need another '95 Prostar 190?
09-05-2004, 10:46 AM
I had to replace mine also. 96 prostar 190. I also did not want to put wood in the boat. I kind of looked at it in a different way. I think that the design that was in place is not a good one for the seat. There are 2 problems that I see with the design. All it takes is one person (who does not care) to step on the seat wrong and its broke. Also the ends of the alum honycomb will not withstand the weight of anybody sitting on it. The ends will just start crushing. So, I believe that if you bought the original replacment honycomb, you would be replacing it again long before you replaced the wood that took it place. And the wood is much stronger on the edges. I believe that I would use the honycomb if they sent it to me for free. There is no way I would pay money for it. I wanted to go back to the same thickness that was in place. So,I had to use 2 sheets of 1/2 " to get close to the thickness. I used a waterproof glue, and some galvanized screws. I also glued and screwed one piece of 1 by 4 up on edge (about 2/3 the length of the seat) up under the seat. I used spar varnish, but the resin sound like a better idea. This added some weight, and limited to what I can now put under the seat, but it was well worth the trouble. $ 30
I just recovered mine on my '95, and the edges of the honeycomb are failing. The same thing for the floor panels in front of the engine, and over the driveshaft. When one finally punctures, I'm going to replace it with wood and seal it. For my rear bench, I found a small tupperware box that fits under it. If not for that, I'm sure it would have caved in by now.
09-07-2004, 11:54 AM
When I replaced mine, I had the same concerns about the honeycomb crushing ont he ends and in the middle again. I discussed this with the dealer before ordering the new honeycomb, and learned MC had redesigned the back seat to eliminate the problem. When it came in, the new honeycomb was reinforced on both ends and also had additional support across the bottom of the seat. I have not had any problems (sagging or ends crushing) since replacement 3 years ago with people consistantly stepping on the seat in and out of the boat.
95 was a hull change, the 94 was the last "drop in" full seat, with the seat cushion being seperate. IIRC 95 and 96 were modular seats that also made a sun deck??
09-07-2004, 04:53 PM
I ended up copying the design of my buddy's 95. I used 5/8 inch treated plywood, reinforced with a 2x4 (on its side) underneath. i also cut 2 small 2x4's to use as stops so the seat fits snug up top w/ no lateral movement. I covered the whole thing in epoxy and just need to put the foam and skins back on. But the seat is very sturdy now.