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View Full Version : '91 Prostar - Exhaust redo


swardco
10-15-2012, 04:50 PM
Based on feedback from a previous thread,

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=51339

I have some work to do on my exhaust system.

Below is a pic I took to point out a leaky "freeze plug". It also shows a pretty rusty exhaust manifold.

85461

So I think I need to do the following:

1. Remove the risers, inspect and replace the manifold to riser gaskets.
2. Remove the exhaust manifolds (?), inspect and clean up the manifolds.
3. Replace stuff that is no good.

Here are my questions:

1. What exactly am I looking for to see if something needs replacing? Would a crack be obvious? If they are rusty and nasty inside, is that a reason to replace?

2. If I do need to replace manifolds or risers, any suggestions on mfgs or mfgs to avoid?

TX Wind
10-15-2012, 06:17 PM
I left some instructions on that on your prev. thread.

Cloaked
10-15-2012, 10:06 PM
Based on feedback from a previous thread,

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=51339

I have some work to do on my exhaust system.

Below is a pic I took to point out a leaky "freeze plug". It also shows a pretty rusty exhaust manifold.

85461

So I think I need to do the following:

1. Remove the risers, inspect and replace the manifold to riser gaskets.
2. Remove the exhaust manifolds (?), inspect and clean up the manifolds.
3. Replace stuff that is no good.

Here are my questions:

1. What exactly am I looking for to see if something needs replacing? Would a crack be obvious? If they are rusty and nasty inside, is that a reason to replace?

2. If I do need to replace manifolds or risers, any suggestions on mfgs or mfgs to avoid? A crack will leak water. That's what you'd be looking. I'd replace the bad plug and leave well enough alone unless it's leaking. No need to break into a perfectly good gasket seal just to look. Save that for if / when it DOES start leaking. Rusty inside will always be that way regardless of how many times you open it just to see more rust. I have ran these engines from original upwards of 10 plus years and hundreds of hours on the OEM parts.

Typically a crack will result from poor or no winterization and a hard freeze.

Tell you what else I like to do for ease of access and watering the engine in the driveway; Take the transmission cooler (with new raw water hoses, cut to suit) and turn it up vertical, bolting it onto the transmission where the battery ground is attached. You'll need a new bolt that is 1/2" longer than the original to grab the bite on the internal threads. Makes life much easier in several ways and takes all of 30 minutes or less to reconfigure with new hose (to accommodade for the reconfiguration). You'll also need a new run of hose from the hull intake to the top of the cooler for intake (once it is vertical). Bottom hose will run to the raw water intake along the inside of the stringer, in the basement. See the horizontal position below. Move that mess and you'll have much more room to work. No need to disconnect the transmission cooler lines. They will fit just like they are when rotating the cooler 90 degrees to vertical.

.

mikeg205
10-16-2012, 08:26 AM
@cloaked....this pic gave me the willies this morning... :D

:eek3::eek3:

Cloaked
10-16-2012, 07:08 PM
@cloaked....this pic gave me the willies this morning... :D

:eek3::eek3:The second picture should have taken the static out of your blue hair.

.

03geetee
10-16-2012, 07:49 PM
Ok now I can sleep tonight.

JTR