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View Full Version : 1991 Resto - I Have A Feeling It's Going To Be A Long Winter...


mxhideout
10-13-2012, 08:24 PM
Some of you have seen that I've been looking for an MC for a while now. I kept finding them in my price range, but every deal would fall through because the boat didn't have what we wanted, it was in too rough of shape for the price, or the seller's communication was terrible. Well I can finally say that I'm an owner of a '91 mastercraft prostar 190. We weren't even going to look at it, but I got a text this morning and we ran right out and looked at it. Luckily it was only an hour and a half drive, as opposed to 10+ hours that we were considering looking at.

Anyway, the boat has seen some hard use over the years, but it seems to runs strong, and a great boat to start out on. It has a lot of nicks and scratches from skis and such, but no structural damage fortunately. I'm not looking to restore this boat, but I do want to touch up whatever I can for as little as possible. And that's why I'll probably be on here asking a lot of questions. I've already found quite a bit of info on other people's threads, and can hardly wait to get out to the lake!

First off, we need to flush the transmission, and I just wanted to clarify what is recommended. I hear a lot of people say Dexron 3. This is a powerslot, if that makes any difference. If we happen to get a warmer, clear weekend day (tomorrow maybe?), we'll bring it to the lake and make sure everything works. After that, it's time to give it some tlc.

There's a lot of nicks in the gel-coat; what do you guys suggest to fill it? We'll also need some touch-up paint that matches as closely as possible. I like pictures, and I'm sure y'all do too, so I'll be posting as many as I can.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1901.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1908.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19016.jpg

Then the windshield frame that's worn out. I saw a guy on here paint his and it looked nice. Is that going to be the easiest/cheapest way to go?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1902.jpg

The upholstery is showing its age. I won't replace all of it, but a couple of seat covers were "re-done" and look awful.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19010.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1903.jpg

The fenders seem to be in great shape. I think we're just going to pull them off and buff 'em out.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1904.jpg

Not sure how long it sat outside, but there's quite a bit of oxidation. Nothing bad, will just take some elbow grease...

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1905.jpg

Looks like a buggered up crack on the teak. My dad still has some teak wood left over, so hopefully it's long enough to replace that board. Then I'll give it some much needed teak oil. Any recommendations?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1906.jpg

It's hard to see in the pic, but that middle floor piece is sagging/broken and needs to be replaced. May just use some ply-wood and re-cover it.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1907.jpg

I'd like to replace the windshield seal. Where can I find this?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1909.jpg

Any place I can get new cup holders that fit?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19011.jpg

Steering wheel is beat up. I saw some guy get a replacement at some auto shop. I'm just looking for something cheap that looks similar and won't cover the gauges.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19012.jpg

I don't know what it's called, but the rubber bumper guard is all scratched up from running into things about 16 million times... Can I just replace the rubber strip? It looks like it just pops in there.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19013.jpg

This will probably be later on down the list, but I'd like to replace the side decals with some factory-looking ones. Anywhere I can get them done for a reasonable price?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19014.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19015.jpg

The engine is quiet and seems to run strong. We'll find out for sure soon. I'm extremely anxious to test out the highly praised 'powerslot'. My dad owned an '83 MC back in 90s, then bought a Gecko in '98, but sold it after a few years, so I was never really old enough to get into skiing.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19019.jpg

We wanted to get an '87-'90, but I think we'll be happy with this.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19017.jpg

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
10-13-2012, 08:57 PM
Skidog can hook you up with a new wood cupholder setup
Jim @ baws can do your decals,
Yes dexron 3 or whatever newer variant is what to use in a powerslot,

Should be a fun project and looks like a good starter, good luck.

Miss Rita
10-13-2012, 09:32 PM
You say you don't want to do a restoration, but I bet that may happen. (eventually!)

My $.02 on the windshield: carefully remove it, sand the rough spots on the frame, prime and paint it. It would be nice to powdercoat it, but you would have to complete disassemble it, not sure you're up for that. While the windshield is off, buff the deck with some compound. When you re-install it, get some high density foam weatherstripping at Menard's (I see you're in Minnesota) that will work just fine .

mxhideout
10-13-2012, 09:38 PM
Ha, well I'm known to be cheap, but the longer I decide to keep it, the more we'll end up doing to it. That doesn't sound too difficult to do. I wish we had a pole barn already (winters are impossible to work in without heat).

Is it just the cup holders that are wood? Not sure it would match the rest of the boat. How much do you suppose the side decals would be?

ncsone
10-13-2012, 09:48 PM
It looks like most of your repairs are just cosmetic, and those should be easy to care for. You have a great boat on your hands - enjoy it. I like the colors a lot.

Lumbergh
10-13-2012, 09:57 PM
Bakes for SS cupholders that are affordable and fit.

Redline decals from ebay for all decal on the 91-94.

Rub the gel out, sand and oil the teak.

Go through all the easy stuff on engine (hoses, filters, fluids, cap/rotor, plug wires, plugs, and so on).

Looks like it will clean up well with a winter to work on it!

Congrats on your new boat.

madcityskier
10-13-2012, 10:03 PM
Gel repair kits often can be tinted. I have used a product called powerpoxy, it's marine underwater epoxy, which works well on white gel and is very durable. Hard to find an exact match, but this looks better than a chip and has been pretty close the times I've used it. You'll love that flitepipe if you plan to use a boom as well. Just start with one small to project and then do whatever's next. Before you know it she'll be in showroom condition.

mxhideout
10-14-2012, 12:19 AM
Thanks for the tips so far guys. We will definitely be using the barefoot boom and the Flitepipe (didn't even know what it was called), which made this buy a little better. We didn't want a tower, so it will be really nice to have when friends go with for wake boarding and even skiing.

If/when I get that far, those decals from Redline should work, thanks. Plastic would be fine, but stainless holders would be nice too. What size will fit? Any tutorials on how to rub the gel coat out? What is recommended tranny fluid? (Never mind, just checked the manual and it said Dexron). I'll check out that powerpoxy. I also forgot to post a picture of a pretty big gouge on the front of the bow where they must've ran into something. I'll take a pic tomorrow.

madcityskier
10-14-2012, 12:31 AM
Should be able to get plastic or stainless from skidim.com west marine or overtons no problem. Just measure the ones you're taking out. First step would likely be a medium cut rubbing compound. Take your time and don't run fast in one spot for a period of time. Keep the buffer moving. If that's not enough you can go to a heavier cut compound, or even wet sand. Follow with muliple coats of high quality wax. Search through the old threads and you'll find lots of info and advice. Check the manual, but should be Dex3 fluid.

bturner2
10-14-2012, 08:35 AM
Try Spectrum Color for Gel Coat repair paste. I've used their products with very good success. It'll be hard to get a good match after all the fading but it should still be close. Powder coating is pretty cheap to do around here and will give you a better finish. You should be able to get the windshield off then take it in the house to prep it for the powder coater.

I had a 76 Sea Ray in similar condition and basically refinished all the parts I could get in the house over the winter then finished the rest of the boat as the weather got better in the spring. You'd be amazed what you can take apart and get in your basement when you really want to work on something.

http://www.spectrumcolor.com/Index.aspx?key=cat

milkmania
10-14-2012, 09:54 AM
Taco for rub rail
http://tacomarine.com/cat--Rub-Rail--rubrail.html

steering wheel thread
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=42446&highlight=steering+wheel

skishack90
10-14-2012, 10:24 AM
mxhideout: Someone from MN who says y'all...That is awesome!!

Sorry for the distraction

mikeg205
10-14-2012, 01:02 PM
Nice project boat...bite your tongue on the long winter...lol...

I would not take out the windshield...just taped off the glass and prep and paint. If you have the time... http://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-black-diamond-metallic-8-ounce.html?utm_content=14116&utm_campaign=nextagsean01&utm_source=nextag&utm_medium=Merchant-Centre&SRCCODE=1SE0757 - really nice powder coat...

The screw channel - here's a link for replacement.

http://www.taylormarine.com/hardware/index.html

Replacing the foam under the windshield easy to replace...you can just loosen the windshield prop up with spacers - unless the foam gasket is gone or leaking I would let it wait..

Decals you can many places - The only thing about decals is the colors you might get. If you want to color match you'll to have them made locally. Color matching is tough.

The cups you can buy anywhere...

these caught my eye... pricey but way cool... http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=SeaSense-Cup-Holders-With-LED-Accent-Bezels-2-Pack&i=616706&str=cups&merchID=4005

mxhideout
10-14-2012, 01:31 PM
Try Spectrum Color for Gel Coat repair paste. I've used their products with very good success. It'll be hard to get a good match after all the fading but it should still be close. Powder coating is pretty cheap to do around here and will give you a better finish. You should be able to get the windshield off then take it in the house to prep it for the powder coater.

I had a 76 Sea Ray in similar condition and basically refinished all the parts I could get in the house over the winter then finished the rest of the boat as the weather got better in the spring. You'd be amazed what you can take apart and get in your basement when you really want to work on something.

http://www.spectrumcolor.com/Index.aspx?key=cat

Do you know which paste will match the best? Or do I have to contact them?

Taco for rub rail
http://tacomarine.com/cat--Rub-Rail--rubrail.html

steering wheel thread
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=42446&highlight=steering+wheel

Is this the right one? http://tacomarine.com/item--1-1-4-x-3-4-Rigid-Rub-Rail--V21-9517.html
How many feet do I need, and where are prices?

mxhideout: Someone from MN who says y'all...That is awesome!!

Sorry for the distraction

Haha yeah, one of my bros moved down to TN, and his wife is from Florida.

Nice project boat...bite your tongue on the long winter...lol...

I would not take out the windshield...just taped off the glass and prep and paint. If you have the time... http://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-black-diamond-metallic-8-ounce.html?utm_content=14116&utm_campaign=nextagsean01&utm_source=nextag&utm_medium=Merchant-Centre&SRCCODE=1SE0757 - really nice powder coat...

The screw channel - here's a link for replacement.

http://www.taylormarine.com/hardware/index.html

Replacing the foam under the windshield easy to replace...you can just loosen the windshield prop up with spacers - unless the foam gasket is gone or leaking I would let it wait..

Decals you can many places - The only thing about decals is the colors you might get. If you want to color match you'll to have them made locally. Color matching is tough.

The cups you can buy anywhere...

these caught my eye... pricey but way cool... http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=SeaSense-Cup-Holders-With-LED-Accent-Bezels-2-Pack&i=616706&str=cups&merchID=4005

Yeah, I didn't really want to send it out to get powder-coated. How does that product work that you posted?

Thanks for the links. Ha, yeah I don't need that fancy of cups. It is just a ski boat after all. I saw some SS from Bakes for only $9 that I kinda like. Although, I'm not worrying about that little stuff at the moment. We'll try and get the boat out to the lake next weekend to make sure everything works fine. Then I'll start making it look pretty.

mikeg205
10-14-2012, 01:41 PM
Do you know which paste will match the best? Or do I have to contact them?

Yeah, I didn't really want to send it out to get powder-coated. How does that product work that you posted?

Thanks for the links. Ha, yeah I don't need that fancy of cups. It is just a ski boat after all. I saw some SS from Bakes for only $9 that I kinda like. Although, I'm not worrying about that little stuff at the moment. We'll try and get the boat out to the lake next weekend to make sure everything works fine. Then I'll start making it look pretty.

Spectrum can get you gel that will match - however the color may not match due to age...but you can play around with color tints to get very close...

You need to spray it and then bake it. There's a thread here where someone bought a cheap oven..range portion that did not work for a $100 and then spray on the powder coat baked it and it the part looked brand new.

Cick Here (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=47182&highlight=powder+coat+oven)

I may add these just for a little dress up...my cups are 17 years old and one chipped up like yours.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Stainless-Steel-Drink-Holder-With-Drain-Hole-3-1/2&i=36078&aID=601I3&merchID=4006

mxhideout
10-14-2012, 01:54 PM
I've wanted a powder coating set-up for a while now for my bike stuff. Maybe I'll start that this winter if I can find some room...
I was looking at these:
http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=643

mikeg205
10-14-2012, 01:56 PM
I've wanted a powder coating set-up for a while now for my bike stuff. Maybe I'll start that this winter if I can find some room...
I was looking at these:
http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=643


Great!!! better price...I am going to order those... overtons and bass pro want like $6-$9 for the plastic ones...

mxhideout
10-14-2012, 01:58 PM
Also, here's a pic of the nasty gouge I was talking about.
http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19021.jpg

mxhideout
10-14-2012, 02:00 PM
Thank Lumbergh for finding the cup holders. I'll probably order them next spring.

cwarndahl
10-14-2012, 02:02 PM
Congratulations on the new boat, i it to ended up buying my x-10 that was a in a real used and now 11 years old shape for a song. these boats are so well built that it didnt really matter. i spent under a thousand doing all the hoses, plugs wires fluid act. now i to am working on the cosmetics. the great thing your boat is it an awesome looking boat and as you get it to the condition that you want it in it will be one of the better looking boats and the enjoyment and satisfaction that you will get of your work not to mention the fun you have with it, makes it worth while. Enjoy! and listening to the advise of the guys here i havent been steered wrong once. making this one of the best toys i have ever had.

ricford
10-14-2012, 04:26 PM
Nice boat. Will be really nice when you get the cosmetics fixed up, and then those sand covered flip flops won't be allowed anywhere near that boat.

mxhideout
10-14-2012, 04:32 PM
Thanks, lol. There will absolutely be no shoes after we clean her up.

Lumbergh
10-14-2012, 07:58 PM
Bakes is local to me.

I have 3 of the SS on the end of my doghouse. $30 for 3 is a sweet price. They just dropped in.

SkiDog
10-14-2012, 08:48 PM
Ha, well I'm known to be cheap, but the longer I decide to keep it, the more we'll end up doing to it. That doesn't sound too difficult to do. I wish we had a pole barn already (winters are impossible to work in without heat).

Is it just the cup holders that are wood? Not sure it would match the rest of the boat. How much do you suppose the side decals would be?

First of all, Welcome to the Mastercraft world! This is what I can do for ya. The actual cupholders can be bought from any West marine, or marine store. Not expensive, unless you go with Stainless ones. i sell these for Around $180.00. Plastic, like you've got are no longer available, and when they were, they were around $225.00 each. Just let me know.

mxhideout
10-21-2012, 11:05 PM
Thanks for the offer, SkiDog, but I'm going to hold out on that for now. We took it out yesterday to test it, and the water was down about 2 feet at the regular beach landing so we didn't even try putting it in there since we only have 2wd vehicles... Luckily they have a landing on the other side of the lake that had concrete down far enough.

Right when we put it in the water we found a major leak, which would more than likely be the culprit for water getting into the tranny. The flexible rubber adapter on the prop shaft was torn, so water was spraying in. My dad just tied a towel around it because we really wanted to test everything before winter. Took it out for a spin, which wasn't very long since it was a bit nippy out. My dad felt some excessive vibration, and then saw the prop shaft was bent, which is probably how the rubber hose got torn. The prop is dinged up, so it had obviously been hit, which bent the shaft.

So, we started pulling it out, but now have to figure out how to get the nut on the adapter flange that holds the shaft off. What do y'all suggest, and what size is the nut? We'd also be interested in a spare powerslot prop if anyone needs to get rid of one.

mxhideout
10-27-2012, 04:53 PM
Well the shaft appears to be straight, but the strut is more than likely bent. After pulling the shaft off, we saw that a section of the thread has a 'stretched' look to it. Not sure if that's suppose to be there or not. If it's stretched, we'd definitely want to replace it. Also, we tried pulling out the water pump impeller when winterizing the boat, and it's stuck in there pretty good. What do you guys use to pull it out without wrecking the blades?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19022.jpg

jmorone
10-27-2012, 08:33 PM
Try using two paint can openers. Insert each can opening about a third of the way in and gently push back on them with even pressure. The impeller should pop out. You can usually get the can openers free at Lowes, Home Depot or Sherwin Williams to name a few. Leave the can openers in your boat tool box for future, on-the-water, repairs.

Rockman
10-27-2012, 08:37 PM
MX,

Nice winter project there! Like the color scheme! ;)

Good luck on the restoration!

RM

Cloaked
10-27-2012, 08:49 PM
First of all, Welcome to the Mastercraft world! This is what I can do for ya. The actual cupholders can be bought from any West marine, or marine store. Not expensive, unless you go with Stainless ones. i sell these for Around $180.00. Plastic, like you've got are no longer available, and when they were, they were around $225.00 each. Just let me know.Looks great Skidog. I need one of those. OEM is not to be found.....PM sent.

.

mikeg205
10-28-2012, 12:19 PM
Well the shaft appears to be straight, but the strut is more than likely bent. After pulling the shaft off, we saw that a section of the thread has a 'stretched' look to it. Not sure if that's suppose to be there or not. If it's stretched, we'd definitely want to replace it. Also, we tried pulling out the water pump impeller when winterizing the boat, and it's stuck in there pretty good. What do you guys use to pull it out without wrecking the blades?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19022.jpg

You can use the paint openers...some people use a good pair of vise-grips. You should pull it and toss it and not worry about this one. Put a light coat of synthetic grease on the impeller-shaft and in the impeller.....comes out easy then using the paint openers.. I boat the remover cuz mine was stuck on and paint openers did not work. Vise-Grips & new impeller cheaper than puller...

FrankSchwab
10-29-2012, 12:15 AM
Agreed, Impellers are one of those change-every-year maintenance items anyway, so pull the old one however you can, and throw it away.

Perhaps the best bet for easing the old one out is to spray some soap solution into the pump/impeller, and bump the engine over a little bit to distribute the soap (and get it between the impeller/housing). Use the paint can openers, or vise-grips, and pull it out. Wait till spring to install the new one.

/frank

mikeg205
10-29-2012, 07:57 AM
Keep the old one as a spare if it doesn't get chewed up when you pull it out.

TxsRiverRat
10-29-2012, 12:34 PM
1. I might be the one you saw that re-painted the windshield. That being said, we used plain old semi-gloss Rustoleum. We did not remove the windshield, although the thought had crossed my mind. After Kyle told me that the glass is irreplaceable (and would basically total the boat), I agreed that painting it while it stays on the boat was the safest option. So, get some painters take or masking tape and some newspaper and spray it with the windshield intact. Remove the overspray with acetone. (We also removed and sprayed all 4 vents on my PS205 and they look awesome).

2. Impeller: Remove and inspect the existing one, and keep a spare + few tools onboard. You can change this in 10 minutes right on the water. Use soapy water in the install / removal if needed.

3. Gelcoat repair: There are kits that come pre-mixed that should match the glacier white, but you might need more than the small kit I am about to order.

3. To remove discoloration, we kaboomed my boat back to white, then polished it with paste wax. To remove surface scratches, I have used 3M rubbing compound.

4. If you want to order new nonskid for the trailer, I highly recommend you give Shane @ www.nonsliptapes.com Phone(724)256-8359 Email- Shane@nonsliptapes.com. It was affordable, and he was able to help me select a new nonskid surface. Plus, the added bonus was he cut it to my size specs so I would not have to.

5. My teak looked like yours at one time crack and all. I took 3-4 self tapping wood screws and drilled them into the end of the teak to fuse it all back together. I couter sank them and covered them up with wood filler.

Hope some of this helps.

mxhideout
10-31-2012, 01:25 AM
The impeller that's in there is still good (I think the previous owner said he recently replaced it). I was just going to pull it for the winter to keep it from cracking in the cold.

Sounds like the gel-coat isn't too difficult, so we'll probably do that next spring/summer when the boat isn't in use.

We want to re-upholster most of the interior by ourselves to keep it cheap. I think we'll be doing pretty much everything except the engine cover. Has anyone on here done everything at home? We're looking to get just a cheap industrial sewing machine, then get some material that's a close match to stock and copy the pattern. Also, has anyone here added the "Mastercraft" to the upholstery? That would make it look like new, so I was just wondering how difficult it would be, or if someone does it cheap...

I think the interior is the main thing that we'll be doing over the winter. I'd like to get another prop since the stock one is pretty dinged up. What's a good price to pay for one?

mxhideout
11-01-2012, 01:38 AM
Another thing... The ignition sticks when trying to turn the key or pull it out. Anyone else have that problem? Can it be cleaned/repaired, or do I need a new one?

mikeg205
11-01-2012, 09:35 AM
Is it a new key or an old key?

mxhideout
11-01-2012, 10:13 AM
Pretty sure it's still the factory key.

Rockman
11-01-2012, 01:57 PM
Pretty sure it's still the factory key.

Replace the ignition module and you get 4 news keys when you do this...cheap fix to that.

mikeg205
11-01-2012, 06:27 PM
Or go with this if you have $429.00 burning a hole in your pocket.. :D

http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/2GOKEYLESS-Marine1.html

mxhideout
11-01-2012, 10:19 PM
Replace the ignition module and you get 4 news keys when you do this...cheap fix to that.

Where might these be found?

Or go with this if you have $429.00 burning a hole in your pocket.. :D

http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/2GOKEYLESS-Marine1.html

lol, yeah um, no. :rolleyes:

JDC
11-03-2012, 10:12 AM
Where might these be found?



lol, yeah um, no. :rolleyes:I think he meant "ignition switch". You can get one at your MC dealer if you want it to be original. I replaced mine since it had a cheap aftermarket style in it, and the new switch was about $40 IIRC. 2 keys came with mine.

You might want to try a bit of spray lube first. The lock tumblers can get moisture, dirt etc. in it and a little lube might just do the trick. Just a short squirt in the hole (don't flood it), or you can spray the key and insert it in the lock hole, doing that 2-3 times.

mxhideout
11-12-2012, 07:32 PM
Ok, I'll try some lube first.

My dad is pretty sure that shaft is straight, but the strut is probably bent. Has anyone repaired/straightened one if it has a slight bend?

Also, the shaft has a couple spots that show some wear (you can feel it with your finger). Do people re-condition it, just use it, or get a new one?

TxsRiverRat
11-13-2012, 12:39 PM
[quote

TxsRiverRat
11-13-2012, 12:40 PM
Ok, I'll try some lube first.

My dad is pretty sure that shaft is straight, but the strut is probably bent. Has anyone repaired/straightened one if it has a slight bend?

Also, the shaft has a couple spots that show some wear (you can feel it with your finger). Do people re-condition it, just use it, or get a new one?

LMFAO - taken out of context, this is some funny sh*take

mxhideout
11-13-2012, 11:05 PM
No comment...

Anyone else? Or am I just going to have to make some calls to local shops?... Anyone gotten work done by Propulsion Inc.? (Propfix.com)

mxhideout
12-13-2012, 07:10 PM
Well I've gotten a few quotes on upholstery. Viper so far is the cheapest, but I'm still waiting on a reply from Jim the upholstery guy. I hope to get the shaft and prop dropped off this weekend if I have time. When we test rode it, it seemed to run sluggish and on the rich side. Where can I find a cheap carb rebuild kit?

east tx skier
12-13-2012, 08:22 PM
No comment...

Anyone else? Or am I just going to have to make some calls to local shops?... Anyone gotten work done by Propulsion Inc.? (Propfix.com)

If the bend is at the tip of the shaft at the prop end, you are probably not going to be able to have it straightened close enough to the .002" run out tolerance that is recommended. I ran over something with my father in law's MC years ago, bent the prop and shaft up and investigated having it straightened. Contacted a company (in NC I believe) that another member had used to straighten a bent shaft, and when I told them where it was bent, they said it wasn't going to be something they could fix properly.

New shaft from skidim, refurbished prop, some glass work, and I was good to go.

east tx skier
12-13-2012, 08:28 PM
Well I've gotten a few quotes on upholstery. Viper so far is the cheapest, but I'm still waiting on a reply from Jim the upholstery guy. I hope to get the shaft and prop dropped off this weekend if I have time. When we test rode it, it seemed to run sluggish and on the rich side. Where can I find a cheap carb rebuild kit?

I don't know if it's the cheapest, but it can be your basis of comparison.

Holley 4160 Rebuild Kit for 351, etc. (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RN0120-1)

mxhideout
12-15-2012, 02:15 PM
If the bend is at the tip of the shaft at the prop end, you are probably not going to be able to have it straightened close enough to the .002" run out tolerance that is recommended. I ran over something with my father in law's MC years ago, bent the prop and shaft up and investigated having it straightened. Contacted a company (in NC I believe) that another member had used to straighten a bent shaft, and when I told them where it was bent, they said it wasn't going to be something they could fix properly.

New shaft from skidim, refurbished prop, some glass work, and I was good to go.

It may be the case, but I still want to take it in to the shop and see what they say. I found some cheaper rebuild kits on summit. How do I know which one it is?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/holley-marine-carburetor-renew-kits/carburetor-model/4160

Here's a couple tools we made for removing/installing the prop shaft nut/hub:

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/PropShaftHubPuller1_zps650c3cbe.jpg

Removed some material in the socket to make room for the radius on the nut.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/PropShaftHubPuller2_zpsd57730ee.jpg

mikeg205
12-15-2012, 02:44 PM
It may be the case, but I still want to take it in to the shop and see what they say. I found some cheaper rebuild kits on summit. How do I know which one it is?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/holley-marine-carburetor-renew-kits/carburetor-model/4160

Here's a couple tools we made for removing/installing the prop shaft nut/hub:

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/PropShaftHubPuller1_zps650c3cbe.jpg

Removed some material in the socket to make room for the radius on the nut.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/PropShaftHubPuller2_zpsd57730ee.jpg


nicely done...

mxhideout
03-13-2013, 12:05 PM
Is this the right packing for the powerslot? I need three, correct?
http://www.waterskis.com/201500-p/log_shaft_packing_1_1-8.htm

Also, where can I find the rubber hose that connects to the shaft packing gland?

mikeg205
03-13-2013, 12:08 PM
I would recommend this http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GFO3/16X24

you can get a almost get this to be drip less.

Hose

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R045005A

thatsmrmastercraft
03-13-2013, 12:13 PM
I would recommend this http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GFO3/16X24

you can get a almost get this to be drip less.

Hose

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R045005A

I have the gore-tex packing in my boat and it works great!

mxhideout
03-13-2013, 12:19 PM
Alright, thanks! So I just need one package of that packing? I'll see if I need anything else from skidim before I order...

Also, why didn't that hose show up when I looked for it in the shaft accessories category?

mikeg205
03-13-2013, 01:28 PM
Alright, thanks! So I just need one package of that packing? I'll see if I need anything else from skidim before I order...

Also, why didn't that hose show up when I looked for it in the shaft accessories category?

One package - is good - not sure why it didn't show up... but that is why we have this forum... ;)

mxhideout
03-13-2013, 01:36 PM
Thanks, Mike. I bought that newly finished prop from Kyle since ours was a little dinged up, and I sent the upholstery out to Jim Friant, and boy was it a pain taking it all apart... We're supposed to get more s**w and cold this week, so it's looking like we won't get to ski 'til July.... :cry:

mikeg205
03-13-2013, 01:41 PM
Hold tight... you'll be in the water soon... ;) - I would love to re-do my interior...not bad yet....so I can wait... :)

mxhideout
03-13-2013, 01:56 PM
Here's some pics of what a couple seats looked like.
It was covered with some upholstery material, but poorly done. It was basically just to cover up what was underneath...

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/Upholstery1_zps71979ee3.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/Upholstery2_zps7d43bdb0.jpg

Just a few layers of tape.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/Upholstery3_zps00cb5457.jpg

Oh look, is that the original skin?! Don't mind the note I left for my old man.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/Upholstery5_zps07d4c0b1.jpg

What made it even worse is half of the tape was virtually glued to the skin after sitting in the sun for who knows how long. A very nice and gooey mess, I might say.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/Upholstery6_zps74895113.jpg

mxhideout
04-15-2013, 09:41 PM
Still waiting on upholstery... I think I'll give him a call tomorrow. Had a busy weekend, including supercross for the first time since '08 here, as well as my first pet.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/IMAG0307-1-1_zps9981441b.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/IMAG0311-1_zps47b0e5dd.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/IMAG0315-1_zps42735f25.jpg

mikeg205
04-15-2013, 11:57 PM
You'll be out in a few weeks...we need to see pics of you skiin' :)

mxhideout
04-16-2013, 02:05 AM
Ha! People were literally still ice fishing this weekend...

mxhideout
06-14-2013, 03:37 PM
Quick question on mounting the rear boot to my ski (In case I get to use it this year). The screws have to go in a counter sunk hole, and I'm guessing the aluminum plate is for the rear of the back boot. Does it matter if it's offset like this so the holes align? Or am I doing it wrong? (never mounted boots before)

Miss Rita
06-14-2013, 04:03 PM
It doesn't matter how you do it. It doesn't look like the aluminum plate was designed to work with that binding, but it will still do the job.

mxhideout
06-14-2013, 04:14 PM
Ok, thanks. That's what I figured, just wanted to make sure. I guess I could just make my own plate.

mxhideout
07-04-2013, 12:09 PM
Went for the first official ski run this morning... Boat drove great, although the carb probably needs some attention. I surprisingly got up first try with the double boots. Didn't ski very long because we had to get back to leave for valleyfair with the fam. Dad tried getting up a couple times and the rope broke. Said he needs to get in shape, lol.

mxhideout
07-05-2013, 01:29 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdhjPpLhHkc

mxhideout
07-05-2013, 02:21 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiIArVMCGgM

catamount
07-05-2013, 05:42 PM
Sweet video! That last crash looked like a doozy.

mikeg205
07-05-2013, 06:11 PM
Quick question on mounting the rear boot to my ski (In case I get to use it this year). The screws have to go in a counter sunk hole, and I'm guessing the aluminum plate is for the rear of the back boot. Does it matter if it's offset like this so the holes align? Or am I doing it wrong? (never mounted boots before)

Darn missed this thread... the plate was for that binding not the ski it seems... but looks like everything worked out.

mikeg205
07-05-2013, 06:25 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiIArVMCGgM

Nice video... here's my dump at the end of video... stacking sucks in this video...

mikeg205
07-05-2013, 06:26 PM
MX - your boat sounds great!

mxhideout
07-05-2013, 07:40 PM
Sweet video! That last crash looked like a doozy.

It felt like I just did a front flip. Didn't really feel much, fortunately. :) It's weird being on one ski again that's actually meant to do the course. Hopefully it won't take long to get used to it...

Nice video... here's my dump at the end of video... stacking sucks in this video...

Stacking?:confused:

MX - your boat sounds great!

Thanks, it just needs a nasty cam now. :D

All the guages worked, no vibration, and I like the wake (or lack thereof). Although, the key sticks when starting it, and it doesn't feel like there's a lot of power at high RPM. We'll probably take a look at the carb when we get a chance. My mom wanted to go with tonight, but winds are blowing 15-30 mph.:(

mikeg205
07-06-2013, 12:03 AM
Stacking?:confused:



stacking - I let my shoulders get in front of my hips too often... and I need to grow a pair as I approach the wake...lol.. ;) -- I just don't get out enough... 40 minutes prolly total ski time this week even though I have been out 3 times...

mxhideout
07-06-2013, 12:52 AM
Ahh, yes, I definitely had too much weight forward. (not on par with all the slalom terminology yet). Yeah, I only got a few minutes in. I have to get my strength and endurance back since I was sick over a month ago with a weird virus and lost a good amount of weight/muscle and I'm not 100% yet. Right now I'm sitting at 138.

Jeffer
07-06-2013, 12:38 PM
Hey mxhideout, post a pic of your govideo helmet cam! Those are cool videos you posted, fun to watch, I need to get me one of those! I wanted to see what you were using.

Looks to me like the boat is running fine. Nice lake, wherever you are.

mxhideout
07-06-2013, 10:09 PM
Thanks, they're pretty cheap nowadays and work great. I have the first gopro hd hero. You just wanted a pic of it mounted on the helmet? I only have a mount on my snow ski helmet right now. Need to get some more curved sticky pads.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/IMAG0421_zpse1f062e3.jpg (http://s389.photobucket.com/user/mx4god/media/IMAG0421_zpse1f062e3.jpg.html)

46Chief
07-06-2013, 11:29 PM
I'd attach a lanyard to your camera before you hit the water... and it pulls the sticky pad off.

mxhideout
07-07-2013, 01:29 AM
Yeah I know. That was the last time I'm using that helmet for any water sport. I got another helmet and will get some more pads, along with a lanyard. I've heard of quite a few people losing their cameras to the bottom of lakes. :(

orbeamlb
07-07-2013, 09:47 AM
Pick up one of the floatation backs for the housing. Ours will float even when attached to the head strap.

mikeg205
07-07-2013, 11:00 AM
Ahh, yes, I definitely had too much weight forward. (not on par with all the slalom terminology yet). Yeah, I only got a few minutes in. I have to get my strength and endurance back since I was sick over a month ago with a weird virus and lost a good amount of weight/muscle and I'm not 100% yet. Right now I'm sitting at 138.

wow... sorry to read about the virus... losing a bunch of body mass that was is no fun... good you recovered...and got on the water.

mxhideout
07-07-2013, 01:12 PM
Pick up one of the floatation backs for the housing. Ours will float even when attached to the head strap.

I've considered those for a while... I guess I just haven't bought one yet because they're just as big and ugly as the camera itself. 8p Maybe I'll pick one up here if I don't like the lanyard idea.

wow... sorry to read about the virus... losing a bunch of body mass that was is no fun... good you recovered...and got on the water.

Thanks, it was really weird because I rarely get sick, and if I do it usually lasts about a day or so. I tried mountain biking a few weeks ago and felt like I had never gotten exercise in my life before, lol. Anyway, today is a beautiful day, and my parents want to hit up the lake this evening after they get back from dropping off the kiddies at camp.;)

mxhideout
07-20-2013, 04:29 PM
Due to my second shift job, I only have the weekends available to ski, and the last few weekends have been lousy weather (windy/rain). Fortunately, I'll be starting a new job that is first shift on the 29th (super pumped).

Today is the first full Saturday I've had with the old man, so we wanted to get some stuff down around here. He added a couple 2x4's to the base of the captains chair for more height since we still don't have the upholstery back.

We also decided to take a look at the carb, and to our shock, we found a modification done by a previous owner. Below is a pic of an added plate to the throttle cable. They moved the cable mounting position, so the secondary's were only opening about 2/3 of the way. Adjusted that back to stock; free horsepower! :D

Can't wait to try it out now, which will hopefully be tonight after Red 2 with the guys, otherwise tomorrow morning. The lake we go to is always busy during the day (and usually windy), so we either have to go just after sunrise, or before sunset. We'll be able to go right after work in another week though.....:cool:

mikeg205
07-20-2013, 04:32 PM
Cool... I am going to see Red 2 tonight as well..... nice find on the secondaries...

mxhideout
07-21-2013, 01:35 PM
Got a ski session in this morning before church. Was about 60 degrees when we left, and there was black clouds just south of the lake, but the water was perfect and calm. There were only some fishers out. Boat felt great and has plenty of power. Skiing was awesome, although I got whiplash a couple times, lol. The old man says he needs to work out.:o

We need to re-pack the trailer bearings this week, and the tach stopped and started working today. Maybe something was bumped when moving the throttle cable back. Otherwise there really isn't any more mechanical work needed this year. I think I'll start working on the cosmetics soon. We've got a sonoma to pull the front-end off of for an ls swap though, so that may end out the weekend...

mikeg205
07-21-2013, 01:39 PM
nothing like walking on water - before church... ;)

mxhideout
07-21-2013, 01:44 PM
I see what you did there...

mikeg205
07-21-2013, 02:45 PM
Got a ski session in this morning before church. Was about 60 degrees when we left, and there was black clouds just south of the lake, but the water was perfect and calm. There were only some fishers out. Boat felt great and has plenty of power. Skiing was awesome, although I got whiplash a couple times, lol. The old man says he needs to work out.:o

We need to re-pack the trailer bearings this week, and the tach stopped and started working today. Maybe something was bumped when moving the throttle cable back. Otherwise there really isn't any more mechanical work needed this year. I think I'll start working on the cosmetics soon. We've got a sonoma to pull the front-end off of for an ls swap though, so that may end out the weekend...

Whiplash? check out the Gordon Rathbun Drills on Youtube.. I actually bought the DVD.

Kyle
07-21-2013, 03:47 PM
How are you liking that prop?

mxhideout
07-22-2013, 12:34 AM
Whiplash? check out the Gordon Rathbun Drills on Youtube.. I actually bought the DVD.

Yeah, I like landed on the wake on my back or something when trying to cross it and I felt my neck crack.

How are you liking that prop?

I like it. Although I don't have much to compare it to since this is the first ski boat I've driven, it's good for the stock 351.

MikeyOrange88
07-22-2013, 01:24 PM
We also decided to take a look at the carb, and to our shock, we found a modification done by a previous owner. Below is a pic of an added plate to the throttle cable. They moved the cable mounting position, so the secondary's were only opening about 2/3 of the way. Adjusted that back to stock; free horsepower! :D

My carb has the same 'added plate' (black with round stud on it, pic in post #82) that the throttle cable attaches to, and pretty sure it is stock. The secondaries open via vacuum, not mechanically on that year also, correct? Vacuum on my '88 anyway. I've had issues with getting them to open previously, so was curious. Is your picture before or after you moved it? Thanks.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-22-2013, 01:51 PM
My carb has the same 'added plate' (black with round stud on it) that the throttle cable attaches to, and pretty sure it is stock. The secondaries open via vacuum, not mechanically on that year also, correct? Vacuum on my '88 anyway. I've had issues with getting them to open previously, so was curious. Is your picture before or after you moved it? Thanks.

You are correct on the vacuum operated secondaries. If you can't get your secondaries to open, you could have a ruptured secondary diaphragm. You need an intact secondary diaphragm in order for the secondaries to perform.

mxhideout
07-22-2013, 02:08 PM
Pic was before it was moved. Ok, because when we moved it to WOT they would open 2/3 of the way. So you're saying that vacuum opens them the last 1/3?

MikeyOrange88
07-22-2013, 02:20 PM
mxhideout: Not a carb. expert, but my understanding is that they are 100% vacuum operated, on our vintage engines at least. Just so were communicating correctly, the rear two barrels are the secondaries, the front two are the primaries. The primaries open by the throttle lever via throttle cable connected to the carb. The secondaries open by vacuum when the engines develops enough low pressure at speed/load, somewhere above 3000 rpm or so (seen several opinions on when).

thatsmrmastercraft: Understood, mine are working now. I was just looking for some of that 'free horsepower' he mentioned!

mxhideout
07-22-2013, 03:17 PM
Yes, we were looking at the secondaries (rear). I have more experience with bike stuff, but my dad is the full-time mechanic. If you want more free HP, just add more stickers!

MikeyOrange88
07-22-2013, 05:37 PM
Pic was before it was moved. Ok, because when we moved it to WOT they would open 2/3 of the way. So you're saying that vacuum opens them the last 1/3?

Secondaries are only operated by the vacuum, no mechanical action on this setup. However, if you are able to develop more throttle/rpm by moving the throttle cable connection point, and a consequently a higher vacuum, then they would open more/wider. There are also several different springs that can be used within the secondary vacuum assembly to alter when they start opening.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-22-2013, 06:07 PM
OK, lets start from scratch on carb operation in our boats. The throttle lever causes the primary throttle blades to open and go fast. When approaching 3/4 throttle, the secondaries will open due to the secondary spring overcoming decreasing manifold vacuum. Location of the throttle linkage will not affect secondary operation.......only primary operation. Secondaries open strictly by vacuum.

And stickers do indeed ad horsepower. It has been proven on the dyno.


Good Holley carb operation info http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Carburetor%20Tech%20Info.pdf

mikeg205
07-22-2013, 06:16 PM
More stickers... my ears perked up... ;) -

thatsmrmastercraft
07-22-2013, 06:24 PM
More stickers... my ears perked up... ;) -

http://www.7thgenhonda.com/forum/images/smilies/smiley-rofl.gif

mxhideout
07-23-2013, 02:46 AM
Gotcha, thanks.

MikeyOrange88
07-23-2013, 09:18 AM
OK, lets start from scratch on carb operation in our boats. The throttle lever causes the primary throttle blades to open and go fast. When approaching 3/4 throttle, the secondaries will open due to the secondary spring overcoming decreasing manifold vacuum. Location of the throttle linkage will not affect secondary operation.......only primary operation. Secondaries open strictly by vacuum.
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Understood. I was trying to carefully craft the wording to indicate that a higher vacuum (lower pressure) would increase the degree that the secondaries would open (wider opening, allowing more air in. Correct? My wording was probably poor, but I stated twice that they are operated only by vacuum.
Certainly not a carb expert, but I do like to drive the boat fast! I've learned a tremendous amount on TT, and continue to, as I read it almost daily. Thanks for keeping us straight.

Sorry, can't put stickers on the boat. Heck, I've not been able to drill any holes in it yet.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-23-2013, 11:01 AM
Understood. I was trying to carefully craft the wording to indicate that a higher vacuum (lower pressure) would increase the degree that the secondaries would open (wider opening, allowing more air in. Correct? My wording was probably poor, but I stated twice that they are operated only by vacuum.
Certainly not a carb expert, but I do like to drive the boat fast! I've learned a tremendous amount on TT, and continue to, as I read it almost daily. Thanks for keeping us straight.

Sorry, can't put stickers on the boat. Heck, I've not been able to drill any holes in it yet.

The secondaries are held closed by spring pressure so if the secondary diaphragm fails they will not go to full rich. For the secondaries to open, manifold vacuum must reach roughly 6 inches of vacuum before the secondaries will open (approx. 3/4 throttle). Vacuum at idle will approach 30 inches, and as the throttle blades are opened it will continue to drop to near zero vacuum at wide open throttle.

I haven't been able to add any decals to my boat, but it comes with a bunch from the factory so I think I am OK for now. I can still hit 44 MPH so no complaints.:rolleyes:

mxhideout
01-16-2014, 10:14 PM
Bump, looking to replace/upgrade the distributor, as the current one is corroded. What do you guys suggest?

thatsmrmastercraft
01-16-2014, 11:35 PM
Bump, looking to replace/upgrade the distributor, as the current one is corroded. What do you guys suggest?

There have been some numbers matching distributors found on eBay for not too much. I would try to find one and put in electronic ignition. I have been very happy with my Pertronix EI and coil.

mxhideout
01-16-2014, 11:44 PM
Ok, I did a quick search earlier and found this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pertronix-Ignitor-Indmar-Marine-V8-w-Prestolite-IBM-7011-Distributor-/170922256137

I'm not too familiar with marine electronic stuff.

thatsmrmastercraft
01-17-2014, 02:50 AM
Ok, I did a quick search earlier and found this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pertronix-Ignitor-Indmar-Marine-V8-w-Prestolite-IBM-7011-Distributor-/170922256137

I'm not too familiar with marine electronic stuff.

Perhaps I didn't get your previous post. Are you looking to replace the electronic ignition or the whole distributor?

mxhideout
01-17-2014, 05:20 PM
Mainly just looking to replace the distributor on the cheap.

mikeg205
03-26-2014, 10:06 PM
Did we miss the after pictures? Did the graphics work out?

mxhideout
06-24-2014, 07:08 PM
Nope, sorry I haven't updated anything. Been busy with so many other things that we haven't even taken it out yet. :( Just had my sisters grad party this past weekend, so now it's time to get stuff done. We cleaned and rebuilt the carb and want to test it out this week, but the ignition nut was cracked and doesn't hold the switch when turning the key. Can I just get the nut, or do I have to buy a whole new switch?