1991 Resto - I Have A Feeling It's Going To Be A Long Winter...

[mxhideout]

Some of you have seen that I've been looking for an MC for a while now. I kept finding them in my price range, but every deal would fall through because the boat didn't have what we wanted, it was in too rough of shape for the price, or the seller's communication was terrible. Well I can finally say that I'm an owner of a '91 mastercraft prostar 190. We weren't even going to look at it, but I got a text this morning and we ran right out and looked at it. Luckily it was only an hour and a half drive, as opposed to 10+ hours that we were considering looking at.

Anyway, the boat has seen some hard use over the years, but it seems to runs strong, and a great boat to start out on. It has a lot of nicks and scratches from skis and such, but no structural damage fortunately. I'm not looking to restore this boat, but I do want to touch up whatever I can for as little as possible. And that's why I'll probably be on here asking a lot of questions. I've already found quite a bit of info on other people's threads, and can hardly wait to get out to the lake!

First off, we need to flush the transmission, and I just wanted to clarify what is recommended. I hear a lot of people say Dexron 3. This is a powerslot, if that makes any difference. If we happen to get a warmer, clear weekend day (tomorrow maybe?), we'll bring it to the lake and make sure everything works. After that, it's time to give it some tlc.

There's a lot of nicks in the gel-coat; what do you guys suggest to fill it? We'll also need some touch-up paint that matches as closely as possible. I like pictures, and I'm sure y'all do too, so I'll be posting as many as I can.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1901.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1908.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19016.jpg

Then the windshield frame that's worn out. I saw a guy on here paint his and it looked nice. Is that going to be the easiest/cheapest way to go?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1902.jpg

The upholstery is showing its age. I won't replace all of it, but a couple of seat covers were "re-done" and look awful.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19010.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1903.jpg

The fenders seem to be in great shape. I think we're just going to pull them off and buff 'em out.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1904.jpg

Not sure how long it sat outside, but there's quite a bit of oxidation. Nothing bad, will just take some elbow grease...

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1905.jpg

Looks like a buggered up crack on the teak. My dad still has some teak wood left over, so hopefully it's long enough to replace that board. Then I'll give it some much needed teak oil. Any recommendations?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1906.jpg

It's hard to see in the pic, but that middle floor piece is sagging/broken and needs to be replaced. May just use some ply-wood and re-cover it.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1907.jpg

I'd like to replace the windshield seal. Where can I find this?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar1909.jpg

Any place I can get new cup holders that fit?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19011.jpg

Steering wheel is beat up. I saw some guy get a replacement at some auto shop. I'm just looking for something cheap that looks similar and won't cover the gauges.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19012.jpg

I don't know what it's called, but the rubber bumper guard is all scratched up from running into things about 16 million times... Can I just replace the rubber strip? It looks like it just pops in there.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19013.jpg

This will probably be later on down the list, but I'd like to replace the side decals with some factory-looking ones. Anywhere I can get them done for a reasonable price?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19014.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19015.jpg

The engine is quiet and seems to run strong. We'll find out for sure soon. I'm extremely anxious to test out the highly praised 'powerslot'. My dad owned an '83 MC back in 90s, then bought a Gecko in '98, but sold it after a few years, so I was never really old enough to get into skiing.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19019.jpg

We wanted to get an '87-'90, but I think we'll be happy with this.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19017.jpg

[j.mccreight@hotmail.com]

Skidog can hook you up with a new wood cupholder setup
Jim @ baws can do your decals,
Yes dexron 3 or whatever newer variant is what to use in a powerslot,

Should be a fun project and looks like a good starter, good luck.

[Miss Rita]

You say you don't want to do a restoration, but I bet that may happen. (eventually!)

My $.02 on the windshield: carefully remove it, sand the rough spots on the frame, prime and paint it. It would be nice to powdercoat it, but you would have to complete disassemble it, not sure you're up for that. While the windshield is off, buff the deck with some compound. When you re-install it, get some high density foam weatherstripping at Menard's (I see you're in Minnesota) that will work just fine .

[mxhideout]

Ha, well I'm known to be cheap, but the longer I decide to keep it, the more we'll end up doing to it. That doesn't sound too difficult to do. I wish we had a pole barn already (winters are impossible to work in without heat).

Is it just the cup holders that are wood? Not sure it would match the rest of the boat. How much do you suppose the side decals would be?

[ncsone]

It looks like most of your repairs are just cosmetic, and those should be easy to care for. You have a great boat on your hands - enjoy it. I like the colors a lot.

[Lumbergh]

Bakes for SS cupholders that are affordable and fit.

Redline decals from ebay for all decal on the 91-94.

Rub the gel out, sand and oil the teak.

Go through all the easy stuff on engine (hoses, filters, fluids, cap/rotor, plug wires, plugs, and so on).

Looks like it will clean up well with a winter to work on it!

Congrats on your new boat.

[madcityskier]

Gel repair kits often can be tinted. I have used a product called powerpoxy, it's marine underwater epoxy, which works well on white gel and is very durable. Hard to find an exact match, but this looks better than a chip and has been pretty close the times I've used it. You'll love that flitepipe if you plan to use a boom as well. Just start with one small to project and then do whatever's next. Before you know it she'll be in showroom condition.

[mxhideout]

Thanks for the tips so far guys. We will definitely be using the barefoot boom and the Flitepipe (didn't even know what it was called), which made this buy a little better. We didn't want a tower, so it will be really nice to have when friends go with for wake boarding and even skiing.

If/when I get that far, those decals from Redline should work, thanks. Plastic would be fine, but stainless holders would be nice too. What size will fit? Any tutorials on how to rub the gel coat out? What is recommended tranny fluid? (Never mind, just checked the manual and it said Dexron). I'll check out that powerpoxy. I also forgot to post a picture of a pretty big gouge on the front of the bow where they must've ran into something. I'll take a pic tomorrow.

[madcityskier]

Should be able to get plastic or stainless from skidim.com west marine or overtons no problem. Just measure the ones you're taking out. First step would likely be a medium cut rubbing compound. Take your time and don't run fast in one spot for a period of time. Keep the buffer moving. If that's not enough you can go to a heavier cut compound, or even wet sand. Follow with muliple coats of high quality wax. Search through the old threads and you'll find lots of info and advice. Check the manual, but should be Dex3 fluid.

[bturner2]

Try Spectrum Color for Gel Coat repair paste. I've used their products with very good success. It'll be hard to get a good match after all the fading but it should still be close. Powder coating is pretty cheap to do around here and will give you a better finish. You should be able to get the windshield off then take it in the house to prep it for the powder coater.

I had a 76 Sea Ray in similar condition and basically refinished all the parts I could get in the house over the winter then finished the rest of the boat as the weather got better in the spring. You'd be amazed what you can take apart and get in your basement when you really want to work on something.

http://www.spectrumcolor.com/Index.aspx?key=cat

[milkmania]

Taco for rub rail
http://tacomarine.com/cat--Rub-Rail--rubrail.html

steering wheel thread
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=42446&highlight=steering+wheel

[skishack90]

mxhideout: Someone from MN who says y'all...That is awesome!!

Sorry for the distraction

[mikeg205]

Nice project boat...bite your tongue on the long winter...lol...

I would not take out the windshield...just taped off the glass and prep and paint. If you have the time... http://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-black-diamond-metallic-8-ounce.html?utm_content=14116&utm_campaign=nextagsean01&utm_source=nextag&utm_medium=Merchant-Centre&SRCCODE=1SE0757 - really nice powder coat...

The screw channel - here's a link for replacement.

http://www.taylormarine.com/hardware/index.html

Replacing the foam under the windshield easy to replace...you can just loosen the windshield prop up with spacers - unless the foam gasket is gone or leaking I would let it wait..

Decals you can many places - The only thing about decals is the colors you might get. If you want to color match you'll to have them made locally. Color matching is tough.

The cups you can buy anywhere...

these caught my eye... pricey but way cool... http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=SeaSense-Cup-Holders-With-LED-Accent-Bezels-2-Pack&i=616706&str=cups&merchID=4005

[mxhideout]

Try Spectrum Color for Gel Coat repair paste. I've used their products with very good success. It'll be hard to get a good match after all the fading but it should still be close. Powder coating is pretty cheap to do around here and will give you a better finish. You should be able to get the windshield off then take it in the house to prep it for the powder coater.

I had a 76 Sea Ray in similar condition and basically refinished all the parts I could get in the house over the winter then finished the rest of the boat as the weather got better in the spring. You'd be amazed what you can take apart and get in your basement when you really want to work on something.

http://www.spectrumcolor.com/Index.aspx?key=cat

Do you know which paste will match the best? Or do I have to contact them?

Taco for rub rail
http://tacomarine.com/cat--Rub-Rail--rubrail.html

steering wheel thread
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=42446&highlight=steering+wheel

Is this the right one? http://tacomarine.com/item--1-1-4-x-3-4-Rigid-Rub-Rail--V21-9517.html
How many feet do I need, and where are prices?

mxhideout: Someone from MN who says y'all...That is awesome!!

Sorry for the distraction

Haha yeah, one of my bros moved down to TN, and his wife is from Florida.

Nice project boat...bite your tongue on the long winter...lol...

I would not take out the windshield...just taped off the glass and prep and paint. If you have the time... http://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-powder-black-diamond-metallic-8-ounce.html?utm_content=14116&utm_campaign=nextagsean01&utm_source=nextag&utm_medium=Merchant-Centre&SRCCODE=1SE0757 - really nice powder coat...

The screw channel - here's a link for replacement.

http://www.taylormarine.com/hardware/index.html

Replacing the foam under the windshield easy to replace...you can just loosen the windshield prop up with spacers - unless the foam gasket is gone or leaking I would let it wait..

Decals you can many places - The only thing about decals is the colors you might get. If you want to color match you'll to have them made locally. Color matching is tough.

The cups you can buy anywhere...

these caught my eye... pricey but way cool... http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=SeaSense-Cup-Holders-With-LED-Accent-Bezels-2-Pack&i=616706&str=cups&merchID=4005

Yeah, I didn't really want to send it out to get powder-coated. How does that product work that you posted?

Thanks for the links. Ha, yeah I don't need that fancy of cups. It is just a ski boat after all. I saw some SS from Bakes for only $9 that I kinda like. Although, I'm not worrying about that little stuff at the moment. We'll try and get the boat out to the lake next weekend to make sure everything works fine. Then I'll start making it look pretty.

[mikeg205]

Do you know which paste will match the best? Or do I have to contact them?

Yeah, I didn't really want to send it out to get powder-coated. How does that product work that you posted?

Thanks for the links. Ha, yeah I don't need that fancy of cups. It is just a ski boat after all. I saw some SS from Bakes for only $9 that I kinda like. Although, I'm not worrying about that little stuff at the moment. We'll try and get the boat out to the lake next weekend to make sure everything works fine. Then I'll start making it look pretty.

Spectrum can get you gel that will match - however the color may not match due to age...but you can play around with color tints to get very close...

You need to spray it and then bake it. There's a thread here where someone bought a cheap oven..range portion that did not work for a $100 and then spray on the powder coat baked it and it the part looked brand new.

Cick Here (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=47182&highlight=powder+coat+oven)

I may add these just for a little dress up...my cups are 17 years old and one chipped up like yours.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Stainless-Steel-Drink-Holder-With-Drain-Hole-3-1/2&i=36078&aID=601I3&merchID=4006

[mxhideout]

I've wanted a powder coating set-up for a while now for my bike stuff. Maybe I'll start that this winter if I can find some room...
I was looking at these:
http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=643

[mikeg205]

I've wanted a powder coating set-up for a while now for my bike stuff. Maybe I'll start that this winter if I can find some room...
I was looking at these:
http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=643


Great!!! better price...I am going to order those... overtons and bass pro want like $6-$9 for the plastic ones...

[mxhideout]

Also, here's a pic of the nasty gouge I was talking about.
http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19021.jpg

[mxhideout]

Thank Lumbergh for finding the cup holders. I'll probably order them next spring.

[cwarndahl]

Congratulations on the new boat, i it to ended up buying my x-10 that was a in a real used and now 11 years old shape for a song. these boats are so well built that it didnt really matter. i spent under a thousand doing all the hoses, plugs wires fluid act. now i to am working on the cosmetics. the great thing your boat is it an awesome looking boat and as you get it to the condition that you want it in it will be one of the better looking boats and the enjoyment and satisfaction that you will get of your work not to mention the fun you have with it, makes it worth while. Enjoy! and listening to the advise of the guys here i havent been steered wrong once. making this one of the best toys i have ever had.

[ricford]

Nice boat. Will be really nice when you get the cosmetics fixed up, and then those sand covered flip flops won't be allowed anywhere near that boat.

[mxhideout]

Thanks, lol. There will absolutely be no shoes after we clean her up.

[Lumbergh]

Bakes is local to me.

I have 3 of the SS on the end of my doghouse. $30 for 3 is a sweet price. They just dropped in.

[SkiDog]

Ha, well I'm known to be cheap, but the longer I decide to keep it, the more we'll end up doing to it. That doesn't sound too difficult to do. I wish we had a pole barn already (winters are impossible to work in without heat).

Is it just the cup holders that are wood? Not sure it would match the rest of the boat. How much do you suppose the side decals would be?

First of all, Welcome to the Mastercraft world! This is what I can do for ya. The actual cupholders can be bought from any West marine, or marine store. Not expensive, unless you go with Stainless ones. i sell these for Around $180.00. Plastic, like you've got are no longer available, and when they were, they were around $225.00 each. Just let me know.

[mxhideout]

Thanks for the offer, SkiDog, but I'm going to hold out on that for now. We took it out yesterday to test it, and the water was down about 2 feet at the regular beach landing so we didn't even try putting it in there since we only have 2wd vehicles... Luckily they have a landing on the other side of the lake that had concrete down far enough.

Right when we put it in the water we found a major leak, which would more than likely be the culprit for water getting into the tranny. The flexible rubber adapter on the prop shaft was torn, so water was spraying in. My dad just tied a towel around it because we really wanted to test everything before winter. Took it out for a spin, which wasn't very long since it was a bit nippy out. My dad felt some excessive vibration, and then saw the prop shaft was bent, which is probably how the rubber hose got torn. The prop is dinged up, so it had obviously been hit, which bent the shaft.

So, we started pulling it out, but now have to figure out how to get the nut on the adapter flange that holds the shaft off. What do y'all suggest, and what size is the nut? We'd also be interested in a spare powerslot prop if anyone needs to get rid of one.

[mxhideout]

Well the shaft appears to be straight, but the strut is more than likely bent. After pulling the shaft off, we saw that a section of the thread has a 'stretched' look to it. Not sure if that's suppose to be there or not. If it's stretched, we'd definitely want to replace it. Also, we tried pulling out the water pump impeller when winterizing the boat, and it's stuck in there pretty good. What do you guys use to pull it out without wrecking the blades?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19022.jpg

[jmorone]

Try using two paint can openers. Insert each can opening about a third of the way in and gently push back on them with even pressure. The impeller should pop out. You can usually get the can openers free at Lowes, Home Depot or Sherwin Williams to name a few. Leave the can openers in your boat tool box for future, on-the-water, repairs.

[Rockman]

MX,

Nice winter project there! Like the color scheme! ;)

Good luck on the restoration!

RM

[Cloaked]

First of all, Welcome to the Mastercraft world! This is what I can do for ya. The actual cupholders can be bought from any West marine, or marine store. Not expensive, unless you go with Stainless ones. i sell these for Around $180.00. Plastic, like you've got are no longer available, and when they were, they were around $225.00 each. Just let me know.Looks great Skidog. I need one of those. OEM is not to be found.....PM sent.

.

[mikeg205]

Well the shaft appears to be straight, but the strut is more than likely bent. After pulling the shaft off, we saw that a section of the thread has a 'stretched' look to it. Not sure if that's suppose to be there or not. If it's stretched, we'd definitely want to replace it. Also, we tried pulling out the water pump impeller when winterizing the boat, and it's stuck in there pretty good. What do you guys use to pull it out without wrecking the blades?

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/1991MastercraftProstar19022.jpg

You can use the paint openers...some people use a good pair of vise-grips. You should pull it and toss it and not worry about this one. Put a light coat of synthetic grease on the impeller-shaft and in the impeller.....comes out easy then using the paint openers.. I boat the remover cuz mine was stuck on and paint openers did not work. Vise-Grips & new impeller cheaper than puller...

[FrankSchwab]

Agreed, Impellers are one of those change-every-year maintenance items anyway, so pull the old one however you can, and throw it away.

Perhaps the best bet for easing the old one out is to spray some soap solution into the pump/impeller, and bump the engine over a little bit to distribute the soap (and get it between the impeller/housing). Use the paint can openers, or vise-grips, and pull it out. Wait till spring to install the new one.

/frank

[mikeg205]

Keep the old one as a spare if it doesn't get chewed up when you pull it out.

[TxsRiverRat]

1. I might be the one you saw that re-painted the windshield. That being said, we used plain old semi-gloss Rustoleum. We did not remove the windshield, although the thought had crossed my mind. After Kyle told me that the glass is irreplaceable (and would basically total the boat), I agreed that painting it while it stays on the boat was the safest option. So, get some painters take or masking tape and some newspaper and spray it with the windshield intact. Remove the overspray with acetone. (We also removed and sprayed all 4 vents on my PS205 and they look awesome).

2. Impeller: Remove and inspect the existing one, and keep a spare + few tools onboard. You can change this in 10 minutes right on the water. Use soapy water in the install / removal if needed.

3. Gelcoat repair: There are kits that come pre-mixed that should match the glacier white, but you might need more than the small kit I am about to order.

3. To remove discoloration, we kaboomed my boat back to white, then polished it with paste wax. To remove surface scratches, I have used 3M rubbing compound.

4. If you want to order new nonskid for the trailer, I highly recommend you give Shane @ www.nonsliptapes.com Phone(724)256-8359 Email- Shane@nonsliptapes.com. It was affordable, and he was able to help me select a new nonskid surface. Plus, the added bonus was he cut it to my size specs so I would not have to.

5. My teak looked like yours at one time – crack and all. I took 3-4 self tapping wood screws and drilled them into the end of the teak to fuse it all back together. I couter sank them and covered them up with wood filler.

Hope some of this helps.

[mxhideout]

The impeller that's in there is still good (I think the previous owner said he recently replaced it). I was just going to pull it for the winter to keep it from cracking in the cold.

Sounds like the gel-coat isn't too difficult, so we'll probably do that next spring/summer when the boat isn't in use.

We want to re-upholster most of the interior by ourselves to keep it cheap. I think we'll be doing pretty much everything except the engine cover. Has anyone on here done everything at home? We're looking to get just a cheap industrial sewing machine, then get some material that's a close match to stock and copy the pattern. Also, has anyone here added the "Mastercraft" to the upholstery? That would make it look like new, so I was just wondering how difficult it would be, or if someone does it cheap...

I think the interior is the main thing that we'll be doing over the winter. I'd like to get another prop since the stock one is pretty dinged up. What's a good price to pay for one?

[mxhideout]

Another thing... The ignition sticks when trying to turn the key or pull it out. Anyone else have that problem? Can it be cleaned/repaired, or do I need a new one?

[mikeg205]

Is it a new key or an old key?

[mxhideout]

Pretty sure it's still the factory key.

[Rockman]

Pretty sure it's still the factory key.

Replace the ignition module and you get 4 news keys when you do this...cheap fix to that.

[mikeg205]

Or go with this if you have $429.00 burning a hole in your pocket.. :D

http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/2GOKEYLESS-Marine1.html

[mxhideout]

Replace the ignition module and you get 4 news keys when you do this...cheap fix to that.

Where might these be found?

Or go with this if you have $429.00 burning a hole in your pocket.. :D

http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/2GOKEYLESS-Marine1.html

lol, yeah um, no. :rolleyes:

[JDC]

Where might these be found?



lol, yeah um, no. :rolleyes:I think he meant "ignition switch". You can get one at your MC dealer if you want it to be original. I replaced mine since it had a cheap aftermarket style in it, and the new switch was about $40 IIRC. 2 keys came with mine.

You might want to try a bit of spray lube first. The lock tumblers can get moisture, dirt etc. in it and a little lube might just do the trick. Just a short squirt in the hole (don't flood it), or you can spray the key and insert it in the lock hole, doing that 2-3 times.

[mxhideout]

Ok, I'll try some lube first.

My dad is pretty sure that shaft is straight, but the strut is probably bent. Has anyone repaired/straightened one if it has a slight bend?

Also, the shaft has a couple spots that show some wear (you can feel it with your finger). Do people re-condition it, just use it, or get a new one?

[TxsRiverRat]

[quote

[TxsRiverRat]

Ok, I'll try some lube first.

My dad is pretty sure that shaft is straight, but the strut is probably bent. Has anyone repaired/straightened one if it has a slight bend?

Also, the shaft has a couple spots that show some wear (you can feel it with your finger). Do people re-condition it, just use it, or get a new one?

LMFAO - taken out of context, this is some funny sh*take

[mxhideout]

No comment...

Anyone else? Or am I just going to have to make some calls to local shops?... Anyone gotten work done by Propulsion Inc.? (Propfix.com)

[mxhideout]

Well I've gotten a few quotes on upholstery. Viper so far is the cheapest, but I'm still waiting on a reply from Jim the upholstery guy. I hope to get the shaft and prop dropped off this weekend if I have time. When we test rode it, it seemed to run sluggish and on the rich side. Where can I find a cheap carb rebuild kit?

[east tx skier]

No comment...

Anyone else? Or am I just going to have to make some calls to local shops?... Anyone gotten work done by Propulsion Inc.? (Propfix.com)

If the bend is at the tip of the shaft at the prop end, you are probably not going to be able to have it straightened close enough to the .002" run out tolerance that is recommended. I ran over something with my father in law's MC years ago, bent the prop and shaft up and investigated having it straightened. Contacted a company (in NC I believe) that another member had used to straighten a bent shaft, and when I told them where it was bent, they said it wasn't going to be something they could fix properly.

New shaft from skidim, refurbished prop, some glass work, and I was good to go.

[east tx skier]

Well I've gotten a few quotes on upholstery. Viper so far is the cheapest, but I'm still waiting on a reply from Jim the upholstery guy. I hope to get the shaft and prop dropped off this weekend if I have time. When we test rode it, it seemed to run sluggish and on the rich side. Where can I find a cheap carb rebuild kit?

I don't know if it's the cheapest, but it can be your basis of comparison.

Holley 4160 Rebuild Kit for 351, etc. (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RN0120-1)

[mxhideout]

If the bend is at the tip of the shaft at the prop end, you are probably not going to be able to have it straightened close enough to the .002" run out tolerance that is recommended. I ran over something with my father in law's MC years ago, bent the prop and shaft up and investigated having it straightened. Contacted a company (in NC I believe) that another member had used to straighten a bent shaft, and when I told them where it was bent, they said it wasn't going to be something they could fix properly.

New shaft from skidim, refurbished prop, some glass work, and I was good to go.

It may be the case, but I still want to take it in to the shop and see what they say. I found some cheaper rebuild kits on summit. How do I know which one it is?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/holley-marine-carburetor-renew-kits/carburetor-model/4160

Here's a couple tools we made for removing/installing the prop shaft nut/hub:

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/PropShaftHubPuller1_zps650c3cbe.jpg

Removed some material in the socket to make room for the radius on the nut.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/PropShaftHubPuller2_zpsd57730ee.jpg

[mikeg205]

It may be the case, but I still want to take it in to the shop and see what they say. I found some cheaper rebuild kits on summit. How do I know which one it is?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/holley-marine-carburetor-renew-kits/carburetor-model/4160

Here's a couple tools we made for removing/installing the prop shaft nut/hub:

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/PropShaftHubPuller1_zps650c3cbe.jpg

Removed some material in the socket to make room for the radius on the nut.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/PropShaftHubPuller2_zpsd57730ee.jpg


nicely done...

[mxhideout]

Is this the right packing for the powerslot? I need three, correct?
http://www.waterskis.com/201500-p/log_shaft_packing_1_1-8.htm

Also, where can I find the rubber hose that connects to the shaft packing gland?

[mikeg205]

I would recommend this http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GFO3/16X24

you can get a almost get this to be drip less.

Hose

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R045005A

[thatsmrmastercraft]

I would recommend this http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GFO3/16X24

you can get a almost get this to be drip less.

Hose

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R045005A

I have the gore-tex packing in my boat and it works great!

[mxhideout]

Alright, thanks! So I just need one package of that packing? I'll see if I need anything else from skidim before I order...

Also, why didn't that hose show up when I looked for it in the shaft accessories category?

[mikeg205]

Alright, thanks! So I just need one package of that packing? I'll see if I need anything else from skidim before I order...

Also, why didn't that hose show up when I looked for it in the shaft accessories category?

One package - is good - not sure why it didn't show up... but that is why we have this forum... ;)

[mxhideout]

Thanks, Mike. I bought that newly finished prop from Kyle since ours was a little dinged up, and I sent the upholstery out to Jim Friant, and boy was it a pain taking it all apart... We're supposed to get more s**w and cold this week, so it's looking like we won't get to ski 'til July.... :cry:

[mikeg205]

Hold tight... you'll be in the water soon... ;) - I would love to re-do my interior...not bad yet....so I can wait... :)

[mxhideout]

Here's some pics of what a couple seats looked like.
It was covered with some upholstery material, but poorly done. It was basically just to cover up what was underneath...

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/Upholstery1_zps71979ee3.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/Upholstery2_zps7d43bdb0.jpg

Just a few layers of tape.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/Upholstery3_zps00cb5457.jpg

Oh look, is that the original skin?! Don't mind the note I left for my old man.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/Upholstery5_zps07d4c0b1.jpg

What made it even worse is half of the tape was virtually glued to the skin after sitting in the sun for who knows how long. A very nice and gooey mess, I might say.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/1991%20Mastercraft%20Prostar190/Upholstery6_zps74895113.jpg

[mxhideout]

Still waiting on upholstery... I think I'll give him a call tomorrow. Had a busy weekend, including supercross for the first time since '08 here, as well as my first pet.

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/IMAG0307-1-1_zps9981441b.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/IMAG0311-1_zps47b0e5dd.jpg

http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/mx4god/IMAG0315-1_zps42735f25.jpg

[mikeg205]

You'll be out in a few weeks...we need to see pics of you skiin' :)

[mxhideout]

Ha! People were literally still ice fishing this weekend...