PDA

View Full Version : adding easier ballast to 2003 205V


helton333
09-26-2012, 05:35 PM
I have a 205V, equipped with factory tower - just needs ballast - I have tried the sacks with pumps, but what a pain. I basically have to empty them to put the boat back on my hoist due to weight - so, is there any way to add "factory" type ballast, perhaps running it off the existing water intake so as to not have to drill out a hull? I would be ok with dealing with switches or controls in the back, (meaning not having the ballast switches beneath the shifter) - So any way to add a couple tanks in the rear with a pump off the raw water intake? I have likely FAR too simplified a process that would often mean thousands or buying a boat with it already on it. My boat, with ballast that year, was an X-2. That is all it is lacking.

76S&S
09-26-2012, 06:09 PM
If I were to use the raw water intake, I wouldn't fill any bags while the engine was running. The pumps probably wouldn't draw enough water to starve the engine cooling system, but why risk it.

Be sure to plan for just *** much weight to be added up front, assuming you wakeboard.

swatguy
09-26-2012, 07:09 PM
Drilling through you hull for an intake is simple. It's not as scary as people think. That's really the only way to get it automated.

You could splice into the raw water intake line. I know many who have without one single overheating issue. They are running one pump only. Anymore than that and it's time to drill a hole. Again it's very very simple to do. Grab a cocktail to take the edge off and start with the drill in reverse.

You can fill two sacs off one pump but it will take a while. A nice y valve like this from Wakemakers could work for you.
http://www.wakemakers.com/bosworth-y-valve.html
However if you are gonna do all that you mine as well do it right the first time and be done. You can easily run 2-3 pumps off one single 1inch through hull. Check out Wakemakers.com for all your supplies. The aerator pumps are cheap. 39 bucks. They don't come with all the hoses n what not, but you are going to have to buy hose regardless.

Rossterman
10-05-2012, 07:43 PM
Have the exact same situation. Looks like 3 dedicated 1" through hulls and johnson pumps would be the best approach. Anyone done this on a 205V or x-star? If so, where did you locate the 3 bronze through hull fittings? Pics or measurements would be awsome!

Thanks
Ross

jmw
10-06-2012, 01:11 AM
This is the best article I could find when I added ballast to my previous boat a 00 205v. The only thing I changed was that I only used one 1.5 inch thru-hull in the bottom instead if three 1 inch thru hulls. It was much easier than routing around the steering etc... and provided plenty of water. Also it saves you on ball valves because you only need one. You can expect to spend a little over $1,000 if you shop around and about $1,500 if you just order without being creative. I ordered my switches @ Great Lakes Skipper in panel for another MC model cheaper than I could purchase the switches alone and just removed the switches and threw away the panel. Little things like that will add up at the end because it’s a lot of little pieces. I know I’m not the only one on here who has added a ballast system, so you can always ask and get help. Drilling that first thru-hull will really get your heart pumping though. Great winter project… http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/281329.html?1143859903
I'm not sure what the rules are on adding links to another site so if a moderator edits/deletes link, pm me and I will send you the link.

JRW160
10-06-2012, 02:42 AM
I had the factory manifold, but it sucked. I added 2 3/4" thru hull last year, so every pump would have it's own water source. I have factory reversible jabsco pumps. I added the two thru hulls on the bottom of the boat under the engine. It cost me a little over $100 from wakemakers for 2 3/4" bronze thru hulls, 2 3/4" street elbows, 2 3/4" ball valves, and 2 3/4" thread to 1" hose barb fittings. My 750s fill in under 8 minutes.

I can take pics and measurements of my thru hull locations if anyone cares.

Rossterman
10-06-2012, 11:59 AM
I had the factory manifold, but it sucked. I added 2 3/4" thru hull last year, so every pump would have it's own water source. I have factory reversible jabsco pumps. I added the two thru hulls on the bottom of the boat under the engine. It cost me a little over $100 from wakemakers for 2 3/4" bronze thru hulls, 2 3/4" street elbows, 2 3/4" ball valves, and 2 3/4" thread to 1" hose barb fittings. My 750s fill in under 8 minutes.

I can take pics and measurements of my thru hull locations if anyone cares.

Jr160 that would be great! All I have read is the three inlets are much faster filling
Than single 1 1/2 so wanted to go 3 each 1" through holes. As many have said , taking a hole saw to a boat is kinda unnerving!

Thanks so much

VP46
10-07-2012, 01:28 AM
Jr160 that would be great! All I have read is the three inlets are much faster filling
Than single 1 1/2 so wanted to go 3 each 1" through holes. As many have said , taking a hole saw to a boat is kinda unnerving!

Thanks so much

Second that - I think you have a few that would love to see pictures. (And Measurements!)

JRW160
10-07-2012, 05:19 PM
I crawled under the boat and took a few pictures. They aren't the best, but hopefully you get a pretty good idea of where the thru hulls are located. These locations may not work for everyone. There is probably different stuff in different places with other years and engine options. When I was marking and drilling holes, I used the bolts on the strut as a reference to measure everything.

I think I have the pics oriented so the back of the boat is up in all of them.

This pic shows both of the new thru hulls I installed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gLedGrvPPbw/UHHpv4UyAjI/AAAAAAABL4c/qpm6a9usbLQ/s640/IMG_20121007_133038.jpg

This one shows the starboard side thru hull and the location of the factory ballast thru hull.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ydqis1Nitqw/UHHqAO71t5I/AAAAAAABL4k/P7WslXqK1hY/s640/IMG_20121007_133021.jpg

This shows the port side thru hull. I lined it up with the most forward strut bolt, and it's about 4 inches from the center of that bolt.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EJJzgOW6D1Q/UHHqX6DSZyI/AAAAAAABL40/uP4hEacJSNA/s640/IMG_20121007_133207.jpg

This is the starboard thru hull. It's about 6" off of the prop shaft.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z1i2KIHLjSI/UHHq8f8QkMI/AAAAAAABL48/Exny4sd7y94/s640/IMG_20121007_133244.jpg

Here's the starboard thru hull again. Kinda hard to tell in the pic, but it's 13" forward of the center of the most forward bolt on the strut.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3NhIo5LOf1Q/UHHrRJbTaQI/AAAAAAABL5I/26jRdmlHsCw/s640/IMG_20121007_133321.jpg

Here's the factory thru hull. It's about 9.5" forward of the one I installed on the starboard side.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VsmMD9jpMK8/UHHrfjK-tHI/AAAAAAABL5Y/7tYBcFDGtbQ/s640/IMG_20121007_133549.jpg

JRW160
10-07-2012, 05:25 PM
Jr160 that would be great! All I have read is the three inlets are much faster filling
Than single 1 1/2 so wanted to go 3 each 1" through holes. As many have said , taking a hole saw to a boat is kinda unnerving!

Thanks so much
I think the poor design of the factory manifold is mostly to blame for the slow filling. If you designed a decent manifold, I think you would be fine with a single 1.5" thru hull.

Rossterman
10-08-2012, 11:46 PM
Jrw160,
Thanks so much! Great to have folks like you around this board. Just what i needed. Was interested in your comment on the manifold. So you think one possible option might be to put in a single 1 1/2" inlet and build a less restrictive manifold?

jmw
10-09-2012, 12:15 PM
Jrw160,
Thanks so much! Great to have folks like you around this board. Just what i needed. Was interested in your comment on the manifold. So you think one possible option might be to put in a single 1 1/2" inlet and build a less restrictive manifold?

I only installed a 1 1/2" inlet for filling only with 3 pumps and had no issues. The main difference in my system was I only filled through the bottom so I had seperate lines for empty/vents and they went out the side of the boat. I liked being able to see and hear when the water stops (also makes it harder to forget the pump is on) v's it going back out the bottom and not being sure when the bags are empty. I think it's a personal preference but if you want to fill and empty out the bottom, it's probably best to have seperate thru-hulls. (I wish the newer systems still emptied out the side)

JRW160
10-09-2012, 01:55 PM
Jrw160,
Thanks so much! Great to have folks like you around this board. Just what i needed. Was interested in your comment on the manifold. So you think one possible option might be to put in a single 1 1/2" inlet and build a less restrictive manifold?

I think a single 1.5" inlet would be fine. The opening of a 1.5" thru hull is about 4 times the size of a .75" thru hull, so it might be a little better than 3 separate .75" thru hulls.

I still have the center bag connected to the factory manifold, so it drains out the sides above the waterline. The two new thru hulls I installed drain out the bottom of the boat, the same way they fill. I didn't think it was worth the extra effort to get them draining above the waterline.