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View Full Version : Trailer Part Numbers To Update To Newer Oil Bath Hubs?


stennes
09-26-2012, 11:31 AM
I need to replace my leaky and craked hub seals on my 03 trailer, I know you cant get the hubs anymore, and I used to have the part numbers for the conversion to new style hubs that use the new glass window hubs, does anyone have the part numbers or link to where they are so I can get them orderd?
Thanks

deminimis
09-26-2012, 02:05 PM
Might have better luck in the "trailers" section. However, I have not been able to find the non-threaded alumn sight glass hubs like I currently have on my trailer (they are interference fit units as the hub is not threaded like later ones). Although I'm not positive, I think these may work:

http://imageserv3.team-logic.com/store-logic/products/159/56852/kodiak_pro_lube_cap.jpg

and located here: http://www.pacifictrailers.com/Kodiak-pro-lube-1980/

Probably best to call Pacific Trailers and ask is they are interference fit. They appear to be. Please let us know if they work, if you go that route. the description says these are for the 12" brakes, but that's an error as the 12" ones use a different, larger, unit (I THINK).

Here's a complete kit for one axle. From the image, these are, in fact, interference fit: http://www.pacifictrailers.com/kodiak-oil-bath-hub-conversion-kit-prolube-xl-1980/

stennes
09-27-2012, 01:33 AM
Yea I thought about trailers, but thought I'd get better coverage here?

Thrall
09-27-2012, 02:48 AM
Personally I'd stick with grease and bearing buddies. I've had cracked and leaking caps. Upgraded those now got 2 bearings that are turning the oil dark and using the oil up. Not leaking just eating it up. Wheels not getting hot yet but have to fix it this winter.
Trailer has maybe 5000 mi on it.
By comparison my 96 prostar trailer had at least 5x the miles and the bearings were never even pulled out or replaced. Just add grease couple times a year.

east tx skier
09-27-2012, 12:12 PM
Definitely stick with the grease bearings if you can. My buddy's trailer for his old 209 was constantly blowing seals on the oil bath bearings.

deminimis
09-27-2012, 12:34 PM
Thrall and TX, I almost always agree with you guys, but not this time. I trailer a lot and the oil bath system has worked great. Surprisingly so. Thrall, any chance your rotors are a little warped? When mine warped, my rotors were heating up and, subsequently, degrading the oil. Just a thought. I also use 50W racing oil which has served me well. When I had my rotors turned this Spring, I, obviously, changed out the oil seals. No caramel latte, no oil loss all season.

bkblaida
09-27-2012, 12:45 PM
I agree with Deminimis....in 2007 we converted to an oil bath system and have never had a problem. Have logged thousands of miles and have not had an issue. We use synthetic 80 wt. gear lube. The system we use is DuraHub.....details can be seen at www.durahub.com

Thrall
09-27-2012, 04:58 PM
I do have a warped rotor (or maybe the actuator shock). Not bad, slight pulse only and I haven't fixed it because it's a good reminder to stomp the go pedal if I'm coming down a long grade and and am hanging the brakes up. It has not heated up the hub at all. All are the same temp, warm/hot to the touch.
I haven't had any problems with the seals leaking, yet. When I bought the boat, the orig all plastic caps were crap, spent over $100 replacing those. Those cracked caps let a little moisture into the 2 bad wheels.
Overall they're fine right now, but if I had greaseable hubs I wouldn't spend any money to convert. Biggest reason, leaky seal on an oi bath = fried bearings/hub in minutes on the highway. Leaky grease seal = a mess, add more grease, fix it when you get home.
Edit: I've been using 75W90 Syn gear oil in mine since 09. The hubs don't get hot, even hours on end at 80+mph.

Sodar
09-27-2012, 05:29 PM
I really like the oil baths and have had only 1 problem with them and it was when I drove 300 miles out to the river and then dunked the boat IMMEDIATELY upon arriving. 2 hubs were chocolate latte. Now, if I do this, I get the hose and cool the wheel down before dunking or wait a while before I put the boat in. Lesson learned.

CantRepeat
09-27-2012, 05:34 PM
I only had one issue and that was with the caps that were all plastic. I got the aluminum/glass replacements and haven't had an issue since.

Oh and if I had buddy bearing hubs I wouldn't change them out for oil bath either.

stennes
09-28-2012, 01:28 AM
I have oil bath now, which IMO are the way to go, look at semis, a d trailers, all oil bath. My problem is the stock plastic windows are cracked and leaking, Masterdraft does not have the correct caps for them anymore, so I need to upgrade them to new ones that have glass, instead of plastic. I saw the part. Umbers to convert them to the newer style that will fit, with a glass window, but can't seem to find the numbers. Ow.

Skyskiguy
09-28-2012, 02:07 AM
Just replaced all four of my original, all plastic Reliable brand, caps with the aluminum ones. Only one was leaking, but the other three weren't far behind! I got mine from Eastern Marine. The correct ones for my '06 trailer were these: http://www.easternmarine.com/aluminum-oil-bath-cap-with-o-ring-for-10-drums-250-031620
Hope that helps.

stennes
09-28-2012, 02:12 AM
Just replaced all four of my original, all plastic Reliable brand, caps with the aluminum ones. Only one was leaking, but the other three weren't far behind! I got mine from Eastern Marine. The correct ones for my '06 trailer were these: http://www.easternmarine.com/aluminum-oil-bath-cap-with-o-ring-for-10-drums-250-031620
Hope that helps.

Are those screw in? That's what Mastercraft went to, mine are the press in style.

Skyskiguy
09-28-2012, 02:19 AM
Yep - screw in. Sorry.

bkblaida
09-28-2012, 10:53 AM
Sodar

Check out the hubs at www.Durahub.com They have a pressure release system that allows you to run your trailer into water without waiting for the hubs to cool down. We have driven over 500 miles and put the boat into the water without any problems. Not sure why other hub manufacturers do not adopt the concept.

Not worth changing out good hubs...but when the time comes it is something to consider.

For what it is worth....we never had a problem with grease hubs, however I was never comfortable not knowing what was going on inside the hub and hated the mess when I pulled the wheels to check the seals and the bearings.

VRS Fan
09-28-2012, 11:17 AM
Try calling pacifictrailers ( 1-888-479-6920 ) they should be able to help with the right part number. I believe you have the UFP axle and not the Reliable axle so you need press on, something like these, but you need to call and make sure. Mastercraft switched to Reliable around 2005 or so. Also you may want to read up on the failing torsion axles that these trailers have, so far my 2002 trailer has had no issues.
http://www.pacifictrailers.com/trailer-buddy-gold-series-bearing-protectors

deminimis
09-28-2012, 12:37 PM
Sodar

Check out the hubs at www.Durahub.com

Looks like a winner right there.