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hoosier skier
09-25-2012, 11:49 AM
I have a 98 PS 190 with the 350 MCX engine , I'm getting ready to winterize and wonder what oil to buy . I have the manual but it's 2 hrs away at our lake house .

JimN
09-25-2012, 12:00 PM
I have a 98 PS 190 with the 350 MCX engine , I'm getting ready to winterize and wonder what oil to buy . I have the manual but it's 2 hrs away at our lake house .

No, you don't (unless the MCX was installed later). Use the normal oil- the usual is 15W30 or 15W40. Your call as to brand and whether it's synthetic or regular oil.

clrussell
09-25-2012, 12:10 PM
Is the oil pretty general on theese boats? (91 prostar 351) same 15-30 or 15-40?


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mikeg205
09-25-2012, 10:53 PM
you can always check the manual for 2005's...in the knowledge center...but I would stick with JimN's recommendation.

onewheat
09-25-2012, 11:31 PM
Anyone running a 15W-50? I just saw a jug of Mobil 1 in that viscosity and it was a new one to me.

mikeg205
09-26-2012, 10:01 AM
Anyone running a 15W-50? I just saw a jug of Mobil 1 in that viscosity and it was a new one to me.

I think Kyle gave that a try... depending on the engine...old flat tappet I choose Valvoline VR1 or Royal Purple HPS 20w50. Yeah overkill.... also throw in a bottle of Hy-Per Lube for more wear protection...not trying to start an oil discussion.... :D

JimN
09-26-2012, 10:22 AM
Anyone running a 15W-50? I just saw a jug of Mobil 1 in that viscosity and it was a new one to me.

I was told, by someone who worked at the GM Desert Proving Grounds in V8 Powertrain Development, that using oil with viscosity modifier of more than 30 wasn't usually a good thing. OTOH, that was over 25 years ago, so I'm sure oil additives have changed significantly. How the vehicle is used matters WRT viscosity. The oil film with thin oil isn't as thick as with heavy oil, so wear is a major consideration but thin oil is easier for the pump to move and it also loses heat faster than heavy oil.

mikeg205
09-26-2012, 10:32 AM
I was told, by someone who worked at the GM Desert Proving Grounds in V8 Powertrain Development, that using oil with viscosity modifier of more than 30 wasn't usually a good thing. OTOH, that was over 25 years ago, so I'm sure oil additives have changed significantly. How the vehicle is used matters WRT viscosity. The oil film with thin oil isn't as thick as with heavy oil, so wear is a major consideration but thin oil is easier for the pump to move and it also loses heat faster than heavy oil.

You can lose yourself reading about oil and oil additives. my '01 benz 3.2ltr v6 10w40 when new now run 15w50 157K miles... 2002 ford van 4.2ltr v8 5w20 runs great 80K miles with lots of towing and 2002 explorer v6 5w30 109K miles runs great no oil loss.

New additives really help with the shear strength..like the Castrol Edge's claim even though - Penzoil Ultra cam up best in testing.

Even spent a day looking up Hy-Per lube and found it to be a good industrial additive. Not just snake oil.

JimN
09-26-2012, 10:40 AM
You can lose yourself reading about oil and oil additives. my '01 benz 3.2ltr v6 10w40 when new now run 15w50 157K miles... 2002 ford van 4.2ltr v8 5w20 runs great 80K miles with lots of towing and 2002 explorer v6 5w30 109K miles runs great no oil loss.

New additives really help with the shear strength..like the Castrol Edge's claim even though - Penzoil Ultra cam up best in testing.

Even spent a day looking up Hy-Per lube and found it to be a good industrial additive. Not just snake oil.

When I went to MC training, we would occasionally discuss what was needed for oil. Alan said he occasionally had sales reps coming to him with one oil/additive or another, saying it was the best thing out there and that it reduced frictional losses, etc. He would tell them to leave a case and he would test it, using an engine on one of his dynos, which has a 600HP GE electric motor for specifically determining what they claimed. They never came back.

In general use, using clean oil is the best thing someone can do- keep it clean, keep it running at normal temperatures and don't let it become diluted/contaminated. When the engine is under heavy loads, oil is more of a factor.

east tx skier
09-26-2012, 11:26 AM
No, you don't (unless the MCX was installed later). Use the normal oil- the usual is 15W30 or 15W40. Your call as to brand and whether it's synthetic or regular oil.

I think he meant to (or should have typed) MX Engine a/k/a TBI Vortec.

I'd suggest some 15W40 Rotella T.

As for the 15W50, I run 20W50 VR1 in my flat tappet Ford with no trouble in the last 5 seasons.

mikeg205
09-26-2012, 11:56 AM
Here's the stuff Hyper Lube is made of...

http://www.italmatch.it/cm/articoli/Arese%20brochure%2001.pdf

good info... not made originally as a oil additive.