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View Full Version : Request for pics on 2001 ballast switches


Rossterman
09-21-2012, 09:19 PM
Have a 205v that i'm planning to retrofit with a ballast system. I bought the wiring harness and have 3 fat sacks. Will be buying the remaining parts soon. One thing i need is a picture of the armrest showing where the switches and circuit breakers are placed so i can duplicate. Can someone with a 205, 205v, 195, or x-star shoot me some pics?

Thanks!
Ross

swatguy
09-21-2012, 11:35 PM
My integrated bow sac switch is in the dash and the rest are directly under the shifter. 3 switches. They are centered off the shifter. Get ya a pic tomorrow. The key is to leave enough space so your drink in the cup holder doesn't bump the switch every time you go to put it back. If I were to do it myself I would have done the first switch a little further back

Rossterman
09-22-2012, 10:36 AM
My integrated bow sac switch is in the dash and the rest are directly under the shifter. 3 switches. They are centered off the shifter. Get ya a pic tomorrow. The key is to leave enough space so your drink in the cup holder doesn't bump the switch every time you go to put it back. If I were to do it myself I would have done the first switch a little further back

Swatguy,
That. Would be great! Also would be great if you could snap a pic from inside on the water pickups so that i get the correct seacock/thru hull intake fittings as couldnt find any pics as to what mastercraft used. Thaks so much!
Ross

swatguy
09-22-2012, 12:06 PM
Believe it or not there is no seacocks or anything that they used back then. The pumps were just mounted directly to my transom. They used old flow rite manual gates like these in line in case of a failure and to prevent a backflow discharge or premature filling. My open close switch for the valve was mounted to my divider.


http://www.flow-rite.com/marine/product-info/valves/v1-valve




I added an integrated bow sac with 1 inch thru hull. So that used a a brass shutoff.

swatguy
09-22-2012, 12:33 PM
Well I thought they were centered off the shifter, sorry my bad. Now I know why I bump the switch every now and then reaching for a drink. I would move them up and to the right in the pics and have them directly under the shifter above the kill switch if they fit there. just make sure your seat if it slides won't bump the switch mine would clear no problem, but there are a couple different style of seats that may have a different footprint then mine.


84613

84614

84615

84616

swatguy
09-22-2012, 12:37 PM
Here are my ballast pumps on the transom. Keep in mind the orifginal system used aerator pumps. Like i said tho I did add a thru hull for my integrated bow sac and reversible johnson pump. I put it on the passenger side across form the raw water intake. This way the blower was not in the way. I could fit 2-3 more on that side for pumps. Are you going to be using reversible pumps or aerators? That will depend on where and how many you can mount.


84617

84618

84619

84620

84621

Rossterman
09-22-2012, 02:38 PM
Swatguy,
Thanks for the pics! Just what i needed. As to the through hulls, aremyou saying the aerator pumps bolt to the transom and the inlets provide the pipe that the screened inlets screw onto? So, the valve to close them is downstream of the pump?

Thanks!
Ross

swatguy
09-22-2012, 05:32 PM
Yup. makes no sense but I guess back then they were just starting out.

Rossterman
09-25-2012, 12:41 AM
Now I just need to figure how to take the armrest off. Most pics showm4 screws on the top and 1 at the bottom. Mine seems to only have the lower screw. Any idea of how the top mounts? Btw- was planning on using Johnson reversible pumps. Was able to snag the factory wiring harness with switches and circuit breakers online for cheap so need to figure where the wiring runs and find the female connectors that go from the factory connectors on the lom to the pump.

Thanks

swatguy
09-25-2012, 09:25 AM
The top screws are there. They are hidden along the top rail of the panel. Undo the bottom screw. Pull the panel out from the bottom a little and reach up along the top rail if the fiberglass. The studs are glued onto the drivers panel and invisible from the outside. IIRC there are 4 studs besides the bottom anchor screw. You get to 2 from the in front of the seat. And then the other two by reaching up from behind the drivers seat. You can pull that panel from the bottom as much as you want for space to fit your arm up there. It's flexible and sturdy. Sometimes the studs glue gets brittle and he stud breaks loose. I used liquid nails and has held fine. Others have drilled out all for studs and put nice chrome star head bolts with washers in there. I have zero chrome in my boat but some of the newer 03- on boats do so its up to you on how you want to approach it if a stud breaks loose


As far as the loom my breaker box is all the way under the dash along the walk the walk thru wall. I don't think you are going to find the splices you are looking for already there because you don't have an X Star. ........but you may. .......someone else may be able to answer that.

Rossterman
09-27-2012, 11:00 PM
Wiring loom I bought was for 2005 205v and it's set up for reversible pumps. Connections look to be mounting in the ground buss bar and the red positive lug under the dash and no relay box at the back of the boat. Includes circuit breakers and wiring plugs to the pump locations. Was able to find the factory plugs that mate with the harness for the pumps so just need to figure where the main harness route- through the driver side gunnel or down the center. If anyone with the later version ballast has any guidance that would be great!

Thanks
Ross

swatguy
09-28-2012, 12:23 AM
FWIW ALL my wires except my center pump run the length of the drivers side up along the back, along the transom, and around to the passenger side to the pumps for my port side bag and my transom wired Clarion Remote.

If you pull your floor up you can run the wires straight through there as well. Its simple. There is a channel that runs directly from where the steering cable, air vent, and all the wires run on the drivers side dash all the way through. Its easy to get a fish tape though or I used a coat hanger to run some stereo stuff to that side. The floor comes up very easily without having to unbolt anything. Just lift from the plug access port til the floor comes up off the ground just barely over the lip of the section towards the bow. Keeping it as close to the floor and as level as possible, still raised enough to clear that front lip, wiggle it and slide it forward towards the bow. Piece of cake. Now you have wide open access to everything you need to get at all the way through to the engine compartment.

cwarndahl
09-28-2012, 12:40 AM
Swat what it that on the back on the exhaust?

swatguy
09-28-2012, 12:50 AM
its a Fresh Air Exhaust. I have had it on all my boats since FAE started(4 Boats now...was a rep for another wakeboat mfg'r before I picked up my current boat). To me its worth every penny on the noise reduction alone. I can have a normal conversation without any yelling at all in the cockpit at wake speeds, surf speeds, and ski speeds. I would say its half if not more or a reduction in exhaust noise. Especially when I surf and wakeboard. Next to zero noise coming at me while on the rope as well. Its big in the wakesurf community, arguably a must have, but it works perfectly for boarding as well.

People will argue it doesn't affect the CO level as much as they claim. However I notice a huge difference in the way I feel on boats with it when we surf all day and boats without it. There is also less of an exhaust smell around the boat while at idle swapping riders. I know CO doesn't have a smell, but exhaust does and its def less.

http://www.freshairexhaust.com

cwarndahl
09-28-2012, 01:17 AM
Thanks I'll check it out my 01 x10 has a carb so any thing I can do especially since I am upgrading ,y ballast to surf

swatguy
09-28-2012, 01:26 AM
The only thing I will recommend is not getting the cheaper powdercoated finish. Get the polished finish. No matter what I have done, the portion that sticks down in the prop wash Always seem to chip off from the trubulance of the prop wash. They didn't offer that finish back when I picked mine up 5 yrs ago.