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Worthing skier
09-16-2012, 06:20 AM
Another winter project ,

Nearly there with buying this boat ,
Been stood in the corner of a field for 6 years not covered and the worst bit with the hull drain bug still installed, the first thing I did when I saw it was to remove the bug .
I have been told that the boat was at one time was nearly full up with water inside , hence loads of internal water damage .
Keen price , will post as this one moves on .

Kevin

84384

84385

84386

84387

84388

petermegan
09-16-2012, 07:06 AM
Holy ****! Whoever did that to a boat needs a thumpin. Electrics will be a nightmare with the Motor let alone guages. Hull and tower look good. Gooood luck. Have fun

thatsmrmastercraft
09-16-2012, 01:36 PM
Looks like a fine project at the right price. Good luck.

snork
09-16-2012, 02:28 PM
good things theres no wood in the construction

mikeg205
09-16-2012, 07:21 PM
95 or is that a 96..... a little wd40 on that alternator should take care of it...:D

Good luck...can't wait to see the on going pics...the ski pylon show the waterline....

Can't imagine someone having something that cost that much and not give a flyin'....you know what.

ooo...just realized - waterline over tranny... that could be a real problem too.... dang... did you get from original owner?

gatorguy
09-16-2012, 07:27 PM
:DI can't belive you're wearing your shoes in that boat. We have a no shoes rule on ours.:D

MC209
09-16-2012, 08:45 PM
you got your hands full with that one! looks super fun!

mikeg205
09-16-2012, 09:16 PM
:uglyhamme:uglyhamme:uglyhamme:DI can't belive you're wearing your shoes in that boat. We have a no shoes rule on ours.:D

ahhudgins
09-16-2012, 09:20 PM
[QUOTE=mgorczak1;878119]95 or is that a 96..... a little wd40 on that alternator should take care of it...:D

QUOTE]

I think I'd throw a new belt on it while I was in there! :D

I'd like to walk up to the person who let that boat go to waste and slap them on the forehead and say "No....No.....No!"

mikeg205
09-16-2012, 09:23 PM
[QUOTE=mgorczak1;878119]95 or is that a 96..... a little wd40 on that alternator should take care of it...:D

QUOTE]

I think I'd throw a new belt on it while I was in there! :D

I'd like to walk up to the person who let that boat go to waste and slap them on the forehead and say "No....No.....No!"

:uglyhamme:uglyhamme:uglyhamme


Right ah.... some of us work way to hard to get a great piece of equipment like this...it's sooo hard seeing someone let one go to waste...at least sell the the boat to someone who cares before it rots.

19_Skier
09-17-2012, 10:34 AM
95 or is that a 96..... a little wd40 on that alternator should take care of it...:D

Good luck...can't wait to see the on going pics...the ski pylon show the waterline....

Can't imagine someone having something that cost that much and not give a flyin'....you know what.

ooo...just realized - waterline over tranny... that could be a real problem too.... dang... did you get from original owner?

Was the predator motor around in 95-96? I was thinking it was a sportstar or skier (I have the predator in my '01 skier).

Either way, good luck with the rebuild!

Thrall
09-17-2012, 02:12 PM
Holy schitt!:eek:
Looks like a 95-97 PS, but yeah, thought the Predator was later model.
No matter anyway, you're buying a hull and a tower that needs to be gutted, completely.
Not sure what MC's go for over there, but that boat is worth the used price of the tower only.........not even that really.
That boat in the US is a $13-14k boat ...........spotless with a LT-1, ND tower and tandem trailer to boot.
I wouldn't touch it unless they were paying you at least $5k to haul it away, seriously.
Good luck with the "project."

Oh, at least it has closed cooling, so no salt water damage! hahaha

Worthing skier
09-17-2012, 03:02 PM
Hi all

It is a 96 age stamped hull .
The original owner disappeared about 6 years ago and left with some who knows nothing about boats ,hence why it has been not looked after .

Not sure about the options for the correct engine on this ,I have no reason to think it is not correct engine , hopefully some one can advise , hull id MBCUSAT9F96

The gearbox has been fully submerged in water however I have checked the oil and it looks good with no signs of water , same for the engine oil.

Will be a few weeks before I know if the deal has come off , well looking forward to this little project .


Will keep you all posted .

Kevin

Worthing skier
09-17-2012, 04:24 PM
Another picture ,
I think the fuel tank has also been filled with water hence why the fuel has come out of the breather .

84413

CC2MC
09-17-2012, 04:47 PM
Wow. Can't wait to see her brought back to life. Should be a very time consuming project, but worth it in the end. Just a thought, but check around the edges of the floor for soft spots since there was so much water in there. The foam may have separated from the floor and may still be holding water.

mikeg205
09-17-2012, 08:32 PM
Hi all

It is a 96 age stamped hull .
The original owner disappeared about 6 years ago and left with some who knows nothing about boats ,hence why it has been not looked after .

Not sure about the options for the correct engine on this ,I have no reason to think it is not correct engine , hopefully some one can advise , hull id MBCUSAT9F96

The gearbox has been fully submerged in water however I have checked the oil and it looks good with no signs of water , same for the engine oil.

Will be a few weeks before I know if the deal has come off , well looking forward to this little project .


Will keep you all posted .

Kevin

water under trans fluid....motor might have survived...starter - toast...flywheel and damper plate toast....fuel pump probably toast.

The owner disappeared? - sounds like a great story....

96...okay - that's a repower...not cared for...

can't wait to see her running.

ahhudgins
09-17-2012, 08:38 PM
....and you got a barefoot boom in the deal. The value of the boat just went up!:D

Good luck with the project.

barefoot
09-17-2012, 08:53 PM
....and you got a barefoot boom in the deal. The value of the boat just went up!:D


That's what I was thinking! :rolleyes:

There is a thread on here from tealchevy about his salvaged rebuild. Will definitely be a thread you should read. Lots of good information.

barefoot
09-17-2012, 08:55 PM
And here is the thread. (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=38192&highlight=flood)

mikeg205
09-19-2012, 09:10 AM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZF-Hurth-Marine-Inboard-Transmission-ski-boat-mastercraft-ski-nautique-/200821174611?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item2ec1dff153&vxp=mtr

tranny...good price..

thatsmrmastercraft
09-19-2012, 10:51 AM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZF-Hurth-Marine-Inboard-Transmission-ski-boat-mastercraft-ski-nautique-/200821174611?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item2ec1dff153&vxp=mtr

tranny...good price..

Nice find indeed.

mikeg205
10-14-2012, 01:13 PM
Any progress??? anxiously waiting for pics... :)

Worthing skier
10-14-2012, 01:41 PM
Hi ,

Not yet but maybe in the next week or so , just waiting to get a clear tittle on it .

Will post as so at it is bought .

rgds

Sullivan
10-14-2012, 03:00 PM
Who in the world would do that to that boat? I will never understand some people.

Sullivan
10-14-2012, 03:01 PM
What kind of trailer is that? The rear bar under the platform seems interesting.

ntidsl
10-14-2012, 05:07 PM
My notes: nice socks, why is fuel coming out vent? water getting into tank? good buy though...I'd love a project like that yet I dont have the time right now in my life...but someday and thanks to this forum, I will be able to do it.

Worthing skier
10-14-2012, 05:11 PM
What kind of trailer is that? The rear bar under the platform seems interesting.


This is a standard Uk Mastercraft trailer used in the UK,
The US spec trailers you have are illegal to be used over here on the road .
Too wide, no parking brake , lights are different and I thinks few other issues .

Worthing skier
12-07-2012, 04:31 PM
Well the deal has finally been done .

Brought it home yesterday , had a couple of hours with some truck wash and the pressure washer just so I could see what was going on .
Tried to turn it over on the crank , but looks like its seized no surprise there .
So had the plugs out and left the bores soaking for a couple of days, lots of other thinks to get on with .
First of many questions I am sure , is does the heater exchanger on the drivers side normally bed itself in the floor ?.

Thanks


Kevin

mcparadise
12-07-2012, 05:04 PM
Well the deal has finally been done .

Brought it home yesterday , had a couple of hours with some truck wash and the pressure washer just so I could see what was going on .
Tried to turn it over on the crank , but looks like its seized no surprise there .
So had the plugs out and left the bores soaking for a couple of days, lots of other thinks to get on with .
First of many questions I am sure , is does the heater exchanger on the drivers side normally bed itself in the floor ?.

Thanks


Kevin

The carpet sure cleaned up well!! Wow.

petermegan
12-07-2012, 05:04 PM
Sorry can't help with the heat exchanger question, but I went back to the beginning of your thread to look at the first photos. Wow, I can't believe that the carpet actually cleaned up that well. It looks like a completely different boat. Doesn't look anywhere near as bad as first impressions. Good luck with the motor. Have fun.

thatsmrmastercraft
12-07-2012, 05:06 PM
Well the deal has finally been done .

Brought it home yesterday , had a couple of hours with some truck wash and the pressure washer just so I could see what was going on .
Tried to turn it over on the crank , but looks like its seized no surprise there .
So had the plugs out and left the bores soaking for a couple of days, lots of other thinks to get on with .
First of many questions I am sure , is does the heater exchanger on the drivers side normally bed itself in the floor ?.

Thanks


Kevin

Congrats on bring a great boat home. Now the labor of love begins. :toast:

Bouyhead
12-07-2012, 05:12 PM
Well the deal has finally been done .

Brought it home yesterday , had a couple of hours with some truck wash and the pressure washer just so I could see what was going on .
Tried to turn it over on the crank , but looks like its seized no surprise there .
So had the plugs out and left the bores soaking for a couple of days, lots of other thinks to get on with .
First of many questions I am sure , is does the heater exchanger on the drivers side normally bed itself in the floor ?.

Thanks


Kevin

That it what we call a closed cooling system here in the US. Can't say I've ever seen one like that. Normally the heat exchanger sits up front on the top of the motor. This is going to be a fun project/thread, Good Luck!

gweaver
12-07-2012, 05:36 PM
On my 88 with closed loop, the heat exchanger is down low like that, but it doesn't touch the floor. Looking at your pictures, I actually think my floor doesn't extend that far under the engine. Regardless, it might be worth a look at the brackets and whatnot to see if something's come loose. It does look like it's sitting a bit low. I can't see MC designing it in such a way that the exchanger touches the carpet.
G

Worthing skier
12-08-2012, 09:41 AM
So removed the alternator ,starter motor ,raw water pump ,main water pump and found all seized , again no surprises .

However as the starter motor was out I have put a pry bar on the ring gear to bell housing and the engine broke free , back on the crank and now turns over by hand , so 12 hrs of a good soaking in penetrating oil has done its job.

The alternator is a Lucas item and starter motor is not branded , do these items need to be marine type or can I use an automotive part .

Removed the heat exchanger and as advised it looks as if it has just slid down on its mounts , so no worries there .

Re the fuel system , I can only find 1 high pressure pump on the passenger side rear of the engine is the only pump it has , only looks like an sender unit in the tank .

Yes as could not believe how well the carpet came up , needs more work but I am sure it will not need to be replaced , this is a testament to the quality of the materials that MC use in building there boats .

So next step is to fit an new starter ,alternator and battery , drain the fuel system , change the oil ,turn the key and see what happens .

will keep you all posted

Kevin

mikeg205
12-08-2012, 10:43 AM
alternator and starter must be marine. They are modified to prevent sparks igniting gas fumes. The requirements and tests are stringent so you don't wind up having a fire from accumulated fumes under dog house.

wheelerd
12-09-2012, 02:40 AM
You're brave to tackle a job like this. Being across the pond I would guess that MasterCraft parts would be difficult to come by . . . or is there a good dealership network there?

mark g
12-09-2012, 12:34 PM
You're brave to tackle a job like this. Being across the pond I would guess that MasterCraft parts would be difficult to come by . . . or is there a good dealership network there?

Parts readily available over here in the uk just pricey,
Kevin have a look on eBay type in mastercraft if you see the cover for sale look at his other items opens up a page with starters on, second hand and cheaper than new, not sure if you know or not, it's mick macafferty selling the items used to be at mastercraft many years ago, now midland marine, will probably have what you need maybe second hand,
good luck with the rebuild

Snipe
12-09-2012, 03:13 PM
Mike you have no idea how right you are. Some people must have a money tree in their back yard. What a shame to let a boat like that go to waste. :mad::uglyhamme:uglyhamme

mikeg205
12-09-2012, 05:57 PM
Mike you have no idea how right you are. Some people must have a money tree in their back yard. What a shame to let a boat like that go to waste. :mad::uglyhamme:uglyhamme

Yeah...found a late 70's stars and stripes...$1500... okay so I got interested...then after connecting with seller - boat left uncovered in field like boat in this thread for 6 years.

Oh well - it takes all types... ;) :(

Kyle
12-10-2012, 04:35 PM
Yeah...found a late 70's stars and stripes...$1500... okay so I got interested...then after connecting with seller - boat left uncovered in field like boat in this thread for 6 years.

Oh well - it takes all types... ;) :(

Thanks for using the Hemihead font.

1 more MCOCD point for you Mike......and 2 more for the graphics on the van.....

mikeg205
12-10-2012, 06:18 PM
Thanks for using the Hemihead font.

1 more MCOCD point for you Mike......and 2 more for the graphics on the van.....

lol....Yeah I've got it pretty bad....

bcd
12-10-2012, 08:01 PM
Look into having the starter rebuilt. An automotive shop should be able to rebuild it and still keep your marine rating.

51timber
12-11-2012, 11:04 PM
Hopefully you live north of the arctic circle! Your gonna need a long winter for that project!

mikeg205
12-12-2012, 10:38 AM
Hopefully you live north of the arctic circle! Your gonna need a long winter for that project!

Nope - he's south of London. https://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&q=west+sussex&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=0x47df58434716977f:0xaea9abe6ecb97dc2,West+S ussex,+UK&gl=us&ei=gZbIUMnZIfGFyQGt8IF4&ved=0CJsBELYD

Can't wait to see the next set of restore picks... keep it goin' ... :)

Kyle
12-12-2012, 02:26 PM
The surface rust looks bad but will clean up. The risers can be removed and separated to replace the gasket inbeteeen the bottom part and top part. If you take them to a machine shop then they can toumble them in a toumbler or a bead blaster. When you get them back they will look brand new.

I'm concerned about the ECM


How is the oil. Is there water in it. If so I bet the bearings and all parts inside have rust on them. Change the oil with the cheapest oil you can find.

Transmission obviously was submerged fully. I would change the fluid and see what happens. Don't be discouraged if you rebuild that too.


Pull the old spark plugs and take a look. Are they rusty inside. If so there is an old trick that I would suggest that removes carbon build up that I would do if they are real rusty...... Put all rusty plugs back in. Pour a couple of quarts of trans fluid down the intake and just let it sit a few days (do not crank while trans fluid is being poured or while the fluid is in the combustion chambers). Then remove the plugs and turn over the engine several times a couple days later. Put new plugs in and crank it up. And let it run. It will run real bad until all the trans fluid burns out. Yes smoke is going to come out exhaust.


Then change oil again after you run it 30 min to an hour. I would do the same for the tranny.

Worthing skier
12-12-2012, 06:44 PM
Cold weather and parts supply slowing the process up a little ,

Starter and alternator are off at my local re manufacturing shop so waiting on the outcome on that ,waiting on a new ign switch ,rebuilt the raw water pump ,now removed a bit more trim ,fuel tank and cleaned out .
As advised I have bought some cheap motor oil to replace , the throttle body needs to come off as the throttle flap is seized shut and the whole assy is a real mess, also need to look at ECM ,all the sensors looms and plugs .

Really would like to get to the point it cranks over nicely so I can do a compression check .

A question ,
I have found under the fuel tank a horizontal mounted bracket on the l/h stringer with a micro switch attached (2 wires), not sure what this is for ,
Also a relay that is screwed to the floor just in front of the engine mount again not sure what this operates ,both items do not look original fitments, and looking around the fuel tank area I think that this boat has previously been run on gas,
So any ideas ?


Thanks

Kevin

Worthing skier
12-12-2012, 06:48 PM
Hi

Thanks for the advice on this supplier in the Uk ,I did not know of him , trying to get these bits rebuilt first , but if not I will contact him.

Rgds

Kevin

milkmania
12-12-2012, 07:02 PM
Cold weather and parts supply slowing the process up a little ,

Starter and alternator are off at my local re manufacturing shop so waiting on the outcome on that ,waiting on a new ign switch ,rebuilt the raw water pump ,now removed a bit more trim ,fuel tank and cleaned out .
As advised I have bought some cheap motor oil to replace , the throttle body needs to come off as the throttle flap is seized shut and the whole assy is a real mess, also need to look at ECM ,all the sensors looms and plugs .

Really would like to get to the point it cranks over nicely so I can do a compression check .

A question ,
I have found under the fuel tank a horizontal mounted bracket on the l/h stringer with a micro switch attached (2 wires), not sure what this is for ,
Also a relay that is screwed to the floor just in front of the engine mount again not sure what this operates ,both items do not look original fitments, and looking around the fuel tank area I think that this boat has previously been run on gas,
So any ideas ?


Thanks

Kevin

what lead you to think that it was on anything other than gas:confused:

and this is a pic of an 1988 Chevrolet Throttle Body from a truck (for reference)
http://www.truckforum.org/forums/attachments/chevy-truck-forum/1816d1231552634-chevy-350-throttle-body-question-img_0320.jpg

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=87544&stc=1&d=1355350790

mikeg205
12-12-2012, 07:23 PM
what lead you to think that it was on anything other than gas:confused:

and this is a pic of an 1988 Chevrolet Throttle Body from a truck (for reference)
http://www.truckforum.org/forums/attachments/chevy-truck-forum/1816d1231552634-chevy-350-throttle-body-question-img_0320.jpg

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=87544&stc=1&d=1355350790

In europe boats run on LPG....probably why it got neglected... probably was unable to get it re-registered or something and did not want to pay for conversion...IMO

milkmania
12-12-2012, 08:02 PM
In europe boats run on LPG....probably why it got neglected... probably was unable to get it re-registered or something and did not want to pay for conversion...IMO


either that, or it was under-powered running on LPG
I knew they ran on LPG, but didn't realize it was mandatory:(

Kyle
12-12-2012, 08:07 PM
Oh lord that throttle body looks bad.


Remove the entire throttle body from the intake and look into the intake. If it is real rusy in there then valves are probably going to need some work. The intake side will not burn off the rust like the exhaust side will.

I am scared to see what the rotating assembly and the cam look like.



I would almost say just yank the engine and drop a set of rings and bearings in it.

The parts that scare me would be the oil pump, valves, timing chain.

I am sure the crank could be resurfaced and the cam can be cleaned up. Rods and pistons should be ok.


I just would hate to waste time screwing with that engine trying to piece mill it to get it running and then find out that it needs to come out anyway.


You should be able to yank that engine in less than 3 hours.


Then you can take your time and do it right.


How were the plugs that were in there? If rusty then I would yank her

mikeg205
12-12-2012, 10:06 PM
Hey worthing - do you have an engine buddy - maybe you can get Kyle to come out.. checked the weather....much warmer in West Sussex than the Twin Cities in Mn.... :D :D :D

Worthing skier
12-13-2012, 04:42 PM
what lead you to think that it was on anything other than gas:confused:

and this is a pic of an 1988 Chevrolet Throttle Body from a truck (for reference)
http://www.truckforum.org/forums/attachments/chevy-truck-forum/1816d1231552634-chevy-350-throttle-body-question-img_0320.jpg

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=87544&stc=1&d=1355350790

Ah , In the UK we call Liquid Propane Gas (LPG) "gas" ,
and what we call Petrol you call "gas" .

Hence why this has got confused in the translation

Worthing skier
12-13-2012, 04:46 PM
Oh lord that throttle body looks bad.


Remove the entire throttle body from the intake and look into the intake. If it is real rusy in there then valves are probably going to need some work. The intake side will not burn off the rust like the exhaust side will.

I am scared to see what the rotating assembly and the cam look like.



I would almost say just yank the engine and drop a set of rings and bearings in it.

The parts that scare me would be the oil pump, valves, timing chain.

I am sure the crank could be resurfaced and the cam can be cleaned up. Rods and pistons should be ok.


I just would hate to waste time screwing with that engine trying to piece mill it to get it running and then find out that it needs to come out anyway.


You should be able to yank that engine in less than 3 hours.


Then you can take your time and do it right.


How were the plugs that were in there? If rusty then I would yank her

Hi ,

the plugs came out without any problems , no internal rust on the threads or centre electrode , only on the outer part of the plugs which is to be expected .
Should get the starter back soon so I can crank it over to get a better Idea on it .

milkmania
12-13-2012, 04:46 PM
Ah , In the UK we call Liquid Propane Gas (LPG) "gas" ,
and what we call Petrol you call "gas" .

Hence why this has got confused in the translation

it's all good.... http://deephousepage.com/smilies/beerchug.gif

Drive it like you stole it:steering::eek3:

milkmania
12-13-2012, 04:48 PM
Hi ,

the plugs came out without any problems , no internal rust on the threads or centre electrode , only on the outer part of the plugs which is to be expected .
Should get the starter back soon so I can crank it over to get a better Idea on it .

that's a good sign..... the moisture inside the cylinders would rust the electrode even if the cylinder wasn't full of water:twocents:

mikeg205
12-13-2012, 05:21 PM
now this could be very exciting... can't wait for the cranking to begin... so did the boat run on petrol? ;)

Kyle
12-13-2012, 05:23 PM
Hi ,

the plugs came out without any problems , no internal rust on the threads or centre electrode , only on the outer part of the plugs which is to be expected .
Should get the starter back soon so I can crank it over to get a better Idea on it .

That is great news. I was thinking that the cylinder walls were rusted along with the rings and valves.



Here is what I would do


Take the Throttle Body off and pour about 1-2 quarts of transmission fluid down the intake and let it sit there for a few days. Then pull the plugs and crank her over and drain all of that nasty out. This is an old trick to get rid of carbon buildup. I dont think that you would want a piece of carbon or rust chunk from somewere bouncing around in the combustion chamber while it was running. That may cause problems. Flushing out the intake and top end with tranny fluid wont hurt a thing.


I found this trick out when I was a tech at a Caddy dealer. I took this car on a road test and was in a hurry. Friday at 5 and trying to finish up. Well I gased the rods out of the car and drove it like I was on a drag strip. Anyway a piece of carbon broke loose and got stuck somewhere in the combustion chamber. Told the shop manager that it just started making noise. I was 19 and he knew better. Told me how to fix it and it worked great. I was also told to be careful driving customers old peoples cars as they do not ever dust the cobwebs out of them and when you gas the rods this kind of thing can happen. Never got in trouble, just had to do some extra work for free.


In your case I would just do it for the reason that you do not know what the tops of the intake valves will look like without the intake removed. I would just do it as a precaution.



How does the oil look?

wheelerd
12-13-2012, 06:50 PM
Ah , In the UK we call Liquid Propane Gas (LPG) "gas" ,
and what we call Petrol you call "gas" .

Hence why this has got confused in the translation

Where is the LPG tank located? Same place as the petrol (aka. "gas") tank on North American boats? I'm assuming it has to be a hard metal tank, not plastic like ours.

Worthing skier
12-15-2012, 07:02 PM
Update ,

Well changed engine oil and found a bit of water in the sump .

Starter motor overhauled and refitted , where the starter butts up to the bell housing there is a gap but as the fixing bolts go up and there is no play in the bolt holes I cannot see how to close this gap , also does it really matter?.

Anyway fitted the new ignition switch and cranked it over , however when it cranked it spat loads of very rusty water from the plug holes ,I am surprised that if this water has been sat in the cylinders for such a long time it has not completely seized up ,I think this water has come from the riser/exhaust manifold area and by moving the boat around reticently has allowed it run into the bores .
I have also drained the block and found a very good antifreeze content .

Next step is a compression check to decide if I need to pull the motor to bits or not .

Pulled all the remaining bits of trim off as well , bit stuck on the main side trim on the drivers side around the gear lever area are the some hidden fixings holding it on ? .

Thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
12-15-2012, 08:07 PM
Too bad on the water... :( ... but not a surprise..right?

Kyle
12-16-2012, 01:29 AM
Unless your risers are ruined it would be real hard for water to get through the exhaust into the cylinders.

The boat flooded on a trailer in a field. There is no way for the water to flood up the riser and enter from the exhaust valves.


I would bet water entered through the throttle body filling the intake.

When at rest the intake valves could be opened or closed fully or slightly depending on where the engine stopped and which cam lobe was open or shutting.


I'm very concerned about the valves and intake. I can only imagine that they are real rusty.

I also am concerned on the cylinder walls. If water was in there a few days it would not bother me. This boat sat there for a LONG time.

Personally I would pull it and rebuild it no matter the results of the compression test. You will know its good then. The last thing you want to do is totally destroy it. Just ask around. I ruined a block and threw a rod through the side of it trashing the entire rotating assembly, breaking the cam in 5 places, totally ruined my distributor, and bent 5 valves.

Worst case you punch it .030 over but you may be able to get away with honing the block and resurfacing the crank.


It's worth spending some "unnecessary" money today than spending 4-6k on a new engine or whatever you would spend trying to buy used and hoping it will work.

Worthing skier
12-16-2012, 08:03 AM
Unless your risers are ruined it would be real hard for water to get through the exhaust into the cylinders.

The boat flooded on a trailer in a field. There is no way for the water to flood up the riser and enter from the exhaust valves.


I would bet water entered through the throttle body filling the intake.

When at rest the intake valves could be opened or closed fully or slightly depending on where the engine stopped and which cam lobe was open or shutting.


I'm very concerned about the valves and intake. I can only imagine that they are real rusty.

I also am concerned on the cylinder walls. If water was in there a few days it would not bother me. This boat sat there for a LONG time.

Personally I would pull it and rebuild it no matter the results of the compression test. You will know its good then. The last thing you want to do is totally destroy it. Just ask around. I ruined a block and threw a rod through the side of it trashing the entire rotating assembly, breaking the cam in 5 places, totally ruined my distributor, and bent 5 valves.

Worst case you punch it .030 over but you may be able to get away with honing the block and resurfacing the crank.


It's worth spending some "unnecessary" money today than spending 4-6k on a new engine or whatever you would spend trying to buy used and hoping it will work.


Hello Kyle

Did the compression check , first 2 were 40 and 60psi ,so no point in going any further down that route, removed the throttle body only to find loads of rust , so will pull the engine to bits .
Thanks for the advise Kyle , helped make my decision on the correct way to repair .

Pictures coming later.

Kevin

Michigan Tim
12-16-2012, 09:41 AM
95 or is that a 96..... a little wd40 on that alternator should take care of it...:D

Good luck...can't wait to see the on going pics...the ski pylon show the waterline....

Can't imagine someone having something that cost that much and not give a flyin'....you know what.

ooo...just realized - waterline over tranny... that could be a real problem too.... dang... did you get from original owner?

Mike you have no idea how right you are. Some people must have a money tree in their back yard. What a shame to let a boat like that go to waste. :mad::uglyhamme:uglyhamme

OK, if this is a 1996 that as been sitting trashed for 6 years, that could still mean that the original owner used it for 10 years and got many, many hours of enjoyment out of it. What did one of these cost in 1996: $25,000? If so, then $25,000 / 10 years = $2,500 per year of use, even if he trashed it at the end. On the other hand, this site is full of posts of guys who bought 100k plus 2012 models now turning around and buying 2013s. Even if they get a screaming deal on a 13, as I have read some attest, still seems like with taxes, registration, depreciation, etc, they would need to be taking at least a $15,000 + hit just for 1 summer of use! (tax on 2012 purchase, hit on trade in value and tax on 2013 purchase).Not condoning someone trashing a 96, just wondering out loud why there is never the same outcry for the amount of $'s wasted on the other end of the spectrum?
Kudos to the OP who would have the ambition, talent and desire to take on this type of project. Also props to all of those chipping in with such useful tips for this project. Some very mechanically skilled folks on this site. About all I'm good for is throwing my opinion around from the cheap seats :popcorn:

wheelerd
12-16-2012, 12:00 PM
About all I'm good for is throwing my opinion around from the cheap seats :popcorn:

Hey, this site wouldn't be as interesting if there weren't people with opinions.8p

Once it comes to money and toys, well that's one deep rabbit hole!

Worthing skier
12-16-2012, 01:39 PM
Bad weather and Christmas shopping again has stopped play ,
Got the exhaust manifolds off , took the complete engine loom out , I would like to go through this and check all the plugs connectors etc .
Distributor not looking to good bit worse ,also a better image of a very poor throttle body ,freed off the throttle flap but needs a very good clean up , check injectors and , TPS and ISC operation .
Just need an hour or so to pull the inlet manifold and heads .

Worthing skier
12-17-2012, 05:25 PM
Finally got the heads removed , wow what a mess , half of the cylinders have mud in them .
Heads look ok at a quick look , but need to clean them , crank and flat check.
Next step is to remove the gearbox and then pull out the block .

Worthing skier
12-17-2012, 05:27 PM
Another question ,
are the automotive engine gasket sets ok to use for this marrine application .

thanks

Kevin

nkorep2
12-18-2012, 01:09 AM
I thought my motor looked rough....I bet it will clean up well with machine work and such, assuming there arent cracks. From what I have read and been told my everyone, you need marine gaskets for intake, and heads, everything else can be automotive. I guess the marines are made with stainless or something that would corrode. IM really excited to see if this motor can be rebuilt. Keep up the work.

wheelerd
12-18-2012, 02:36 AM
I thought my motor looked rough....I bet it will clean up well with machine work and such, assuming there arent cracks. From what I have read and been told my everyone, you need marine gaskets for intake, and heads, everything else can be automotive. I guess the marines are made with stainless or something that would corrode. IM really excited to see if this motor can be rebuilt. Keep up the work.


It's not that standard gaskets won't work, it's just that they may not work AS LONG! See http://marineengineparts.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page567.html

Automotive engines operate in a controlled water environment, with coolant that has rust inhibitors. With open cooling on a boat, you don't really know what kind of water is circulating through the engine, even if its non-salt water.

Voodoo
12-18-2012, 12:07 PM
OK, if this is a 1996 that as been sitting trashed for 6 years, that could still mean that the original owner used it for 10 years and got many, many hours of enjoyment out of it. What did one of these cost in 1996: $25,000? If so, then $25,000 / 10 years = $2,500 per year of use, even if he trashed it at the end. On the other hand, this site is full of posts of guys who bought 100k plus 2012 models now turning around and buying 2013s. Even if they get a screaming deal on a 13, as I have read some attest, still seems like with taxes, registration, depreciation, etc, they would need to be taking at least a $15,000 + hit just for 1 summer of use! (tax on 2012 purchase, hit on trade in value and tax on 2013 purchase).Not condoning someone trashing a 96, just wondering out loud why there is never the same outcry for the amount of $'s wasted on the other end of the spectrum?
Kudos to the OP who would have the ambition, talent and desire to take on this type of project. Also props to all of those chipping in with such useful tips for this project. Some very mechanically skilled folks on this site. About all I'm good for is throwing my opinion around from the cheap seats :popcorn:

Well said Michigan Tim. The care and feeding of many of the boats posted here is incredible. As well as the demonstrated skill and knowledge. My MC is nothing but a work truck -- mechanically maintained and little more. The boat is there to serve me and provide a platform for slalom and wakeboard -- we launch, ski three sets apiece and get out. I am too damned busy to dote over her. Her innards are well cared for, however. There is no radio and the backseat is in a kid's bedroom. The boat has been from KW to the UP, 1000 hrs of salt and 300 fresh. The upholstery is shot. Owned her for 14 years, been through the course countless times, trained dozens of kids to ski and wakeboard -- all at a cost of 7K, gas and maintenance. But, as they say, to each his own -- I still enjoy viewing the nice boats. For me, she is in the same category as my tile saw.

voodoo

Worthing skier
12-22-2012, 08:48 AM
Hi all

Trying to get some parts on order ,
I have found an automotive distriubtor on ebay , looks the same as the old unit ,
can anyone advise on this , if will be a suitable fit etc.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190685048932?item=190685048932&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

thanks

Kevin

Worthing skier
12-22-2012, 08:58 AM
Also forget to mention , is there any difference between l/h and r/h rotation engines when buying a distributor .

thanks

CantRepeat
12-22-2012, 09:38 AM
OK, if this is a 1996 that as been sitting trashed for 6 years, that could still mean that the original owner used it for 10 years and got many, many hours of enjoyment out of it. What did one of these cost in 1996: $25,000? If so, then $25,000 / 10 years = $2,500 per year of use, even if he trashed it at the end. On the other hand, this site is full of posts of guys who bought 100k plus 2012 models now turning around and buying 2013s. Even if they get a screaming deal on a 13, as I have read some attest, still seems like with taxes, registration, depreciation, etc, they would need to be taking at least a $15,000 + hit just for 1 summer of use! (tax on 2012 purchase, hit on trade in value and tax on 2013 purchase).Not condoning someone trashing a 96, just wondering out loud why there is never the same outcry for the amount of $'s wasted on the other end of the spectrum?
Kudos to the OP who would have the ambition, talent and desire to take on this type of project. Also props to all of those chipping in with such useful tips for this project. Some very mechanically skilled folks on this site. About all I'm good for is throwing my opinion around from the cheap seats :popcorn:

The big difference is if this boat would have been covered it would be a 15k or 16k boat. How much trouble is it to put a cover on a boat? No trouble at all to most people here so that's what makes this kind of thing so ugly and why people cringe when they see this kind of thing. Who cringes at 2012 that's in great shape? No man.

Ski-me
12-22-2012, 10:29 AM
Man, how did I miss this one?!? You've got one heck of a project there! I hope you can get it going again soon. I must of missed it but how much did you get the boat for? Just amazing someone would just leave it in the fields for years without looking at it.....:(

Good luck with the re-build. Looks fun and will be very satisfying when you get it running!

Kyle
12-22-2012, 11:12 AM
Also forget to mention , is there any difference between l/h and r/h rotation engines when buying a distributor .

thanks

Yes there is a difference in distributors and cams with the different rotations.


The cam gear will be one or the other on the distributor and the cam itself is cut to a specific rotation.

mark g
12-22-2012, 02:17 PM
Kevin
Have you tried rodley motors, I know not near you there up in Bradford but might be able to help out
01274688968
Major stockist of American parts, google rodley motors, not much to look at on the site, they have been going years and know there stuff.

Good luck

mikeg205
12-22-2012, 02:52 PM
Hey, this site wouldn't be as interesting if there weren't people with opinions.8p

Once it comes to money and toys, well that's one deep rabbit hole!

^^+1 :D:D

mikeg205
12-22-2012, 02:56 PM
Well said Michigan Tim. The care and feeding of many of the boats posted here is incredible. As well as the demonstrated skill and knowledge. My MC is nothing but a work truck -- mechanically maintained and little more. The boat is there to serve me and provide a platform for slalom and wakeboard -- we launch, ski three sets apiece and get out. I am too damned busy to dote over her. Her innards are well cared for, however. There is no radio and the backseat is in a kid's bedroom. The boat has been from KW to the UP, 1000 hrs of salt and 300 fresh. The upholstery is shot. Owned her for 14 years, been through the course countless times, trained dozens of kids to ski and wakeboard -- all at a cost of 7K, gas and maintenance. But, as they say, to each his own -- I still enjoy viewing the nice boats. For me, she is in the same category as my tile saw.

voodoo

Mechanically sound and aesthetically poor is still a cared for boat..IMO - I tend to leave my rear seat at home as well... Feel lucky you don't have the MCOCD..:D :D

FWIW - you would keep your tile saw in good mechanical condition right and safe? Get's the job done and everyone goes home happy :)

mikeg205
12-22-2012, 02:57 PM
The big difference is if this boat would have been covered it would be a 15k or 16k boat. How much trouble is it to put a cover on a boat? No trouble at all to most people here so that's what makes this kind of thing so ugly and why people cringe when they see this kind of thing. Who cringes at 2012 that's in great shape? No man.


^^^+1

Worthing skier
12-22-2012, 03:06 PM
Yes there is a difference in distributors and cams with the different rotations.


The cam gear will be one or the other on the distributor and the cam itself is cut to a specific rotation.

Ok ,I did not think of that ,
so if I buy a new distributor as listed on ebay ,
I should then be able to just swap the drive gear from the old to new unit ?

Thanks

Kevin

Worthing skier
12-22-2012, 03:08 PM
Hi there

Thanks for the tip ,
I did try them for the gasket set but were a bit on the heavy side of pricing,
I will see if I can use the 1 I found on ebay and swap the drive gears .

kind rgds

Kevin

Kyle
12-22-2012, 04:11 PM
Ok ,I did not think of that ,
so if I buy a new distributor as listed on ebay ,
I should then be able to just swap the drive gear from the old to new unit ?

Thanks

Kevin

Hold on now, there is more to this. The cam drive gear in the two pictures has the same rotation. The drive gear is not zip zip zip easy to swap out. The little pressed in pin is the easy part in removing or installing the cam gear. The drive gear is pressed on to the distributor shaft, the brand of distributor will more than likely have a diameter specific cam gear (they are not generic shaft size diameter LH and RH gears), and the legnth of the shafts can be different.


After comparing the 2 distributors they appear to be the same. Same gear rotation, same size gear, and same legnth.

That's a good price on the eBay buy it now.

Contact seller for shipping

Worthing skier
12-22-2012, 05:43 PM
Hold on now, there is more to this. The cam drive gear in the two pictures has the same rotation. The drive gear is not zip zip zip easy to swap out. The little pressed in pin is the easy part in removing or installing the cam gear. The drive gear is pressed on to the distributor shaft, the brand of distributor will more than likely have a diameter specific cam gear (they are not generic shaft size diameter LH and RH gears), and the legnth of the shafts can be different.


After comparing the 2 distributors they appear to be the same. Same gear rotation, same size gear, and same legnth.

That's a good price on the eBay buy it now.

Contact seller for shipping


Thanks Kyle again ,

Just waiting on some shipping costs , but with the holidays now here it may slow things up a bit .

lazyade
12-22-2012, 06:52 PM
Hey Worthing, me and a mate are in the middle of restoring a 2005 XStar, we have the GM 5.7 engine, but very similar to yours. When we stripped our downs it looked not too dissimilar to yours inside. We purchased a new engine from Michigan Motorz in the US, cost $2,300 or so. We also purchased an electrical pack, with new distributor, coil and HT leads. Shipping and taxes was about 800 on top. Way cheaper than from the UK, plus we now have a brand new long block with zero hours.

Worthing skier
01-05-2013, 07:28 AM
Well a bit of an update ,
heads now stripped down , all 8 inlet valves badly pitted so will need a set of inlet valves .
Block is also out , so next bit is to see whats been going on in side .

Kevin

Worthing skier
01-10-2013, 03:19 PM
Hi all

Next bit I am trying to sort is either a rebuild on the TBI or replace completely ,I have found this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281048468686

Is this okay for my application , or can anyone advise on where to get any rebuild parts for it .

thanks

Kevin

Worthing skier
01-12-2013, 06:23 AM
Hello

I am still trying to find information on the TBI and injectors , does anyone know the part number for the injectors and also a supplier for a TBI gasket set and fuel pressure regulator .

Many thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
01-12-2013, 08:34 AM
Hi all

Next bit I am trying to sort is either a rebuild on the TBI or replace completely ,I have found this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281048468686

Is this okay for my application , or can anyone advise on where to get any rebuild parts for it .

thanks

Kevin

Looks identical to mine..

mikeg205
01-12-2013, 08:36 AM
Hello

I am still trying to find information on the TBI and injectors , does anyone know the part number for the injectors and also a supplier for a TBI gasket set and fuel pressure regulator .

Many thanks

Kevin

Try summitracing.com they may be able to help.

mikeg205
01-12-2013, 08:41 AM
Hello

I am still trying to find information on the TBI and injectors , does anyone know the part number for the injectors and also a supplier for a TBI gasket set and fuel pressure regulator .

Many thanks

Kevin

Try summitracing.com they may be able to help or maybe www.napaonline.com.

Rossterman
01-12-2013, 12:39 PM
Since you have it apart, have you thought about upgrading to vortec heads and manifold? 25~35 more HP and everything bolts right to the shortblock. You will need the vortec manifold but looks like you are going to have to buy a replacement anyway. You can find a good set of used heads on ebay for ~$250 and pickup a stock manifold w/ tbi pretty cheap too! These came on 1,000s of chevy trucks over the years and can be identified by the vertical manifold bolting and only 8 bolts. Later predators were rated at 310hp. I suspect the cam and internals are the same as yours.

Worthing skier
01-12-2013, 01:27 PM
Hi Rossterman

No had not considered this ,good idea,
however I am in the UK so very limited here on the supply of these parts ,and what there is expensive .
My goal with this is restore is to get the whole package back to a good reliable condition but I am on a limited budget .
I am now just looking to rebuild my current TBI , but I am stuck on the injectors .

Worthing skier
01-14-2013, 05:08 PM
Hi All

I am still trying to find a pair of injectors , lots for sale but I need to get correct ones ,
the number is stamped on the top face where the loom plugs to ,
but I cannot recover the number from my old injectors as they have badly corroded .
Any help on this would be great.


thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
01-14-2013, 06:08 PM
I will post your pic to Indmar maybe someone there will chime in...

Worthing skier
01-14-2013, 06:17 PM
Thank you

bturner2
01-14-2013, 06:31 PM
Geez this project looks more like restoring a WWII Spitfire than a boat of this century. Amazing what salt water does to a boat.....

Worthing skier
01-16-2013, 05:37 PM
Hi All

I am still trying to find out the correct injector casting number , you can see by looking down the throat of the TBI unit underneath the injecotr plugs, normally a 8 digit number , possilby starting 17_ _ _ _ _ _
Everyone is very quite on this topic , has it never been spoken about before ?
Also does the fuel pump setup with just 1 pump on the rear of the engine block run a lower pressure i.e 10-14 psi .

thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
01-16-2013, 05:58 PM
one fuel pump that I know of - available online.. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dp60962%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1 %26Dn%3d0%26D%3dp60962%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0 - not available at the stores only online... and about half the price than a marine store.

injector - port side 17014288*ACR and 7184 GM
injector - starboard - 17014288*ACR and 6214 GM

Worthing skier
01-16-2013, 06:07 PM
one fuel pump that I know of - available online.. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dp60962%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1 %26Dn%3d0%26D%3dp60962%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0 - not available at the stores only online... and about half the price than a marine store.

injector - port side 17014288*ACR and 7184 GM
injector - starboard - 17014288*ACR and 6214 GM


Hi MikeG

I am impressed , where did you get numbers from?
Also to to confirm these casting numbers have come from a 1995 -1996 model with a 350 GM , with a low fuel pressure setup with just the 1 pump on the rear of the block .

Many thanks again

Kevin

mikeg205
01-16-2013, 06:26 PM
I took my flashlight an my super magnifier repair glasses and a cotton swap. I got them off my 95 engine. I have the TBI and those injectors...as well as the fuel pump listed. The markings were so light - if I was any older - I'd have to get my kid to read it... lol. was going to post a picture but the numbers got washed out every time.

still waiting for a response from Indmar.

mikeg205
01-16-2013, 06:28 PM
nice to know this is cheap...http://www.repairconnector.com/products/GM-TBI-Throttle-Body-Injector-Repair-Connector.html

mikeg205
01-16-2013, 06:34 PM
Correction it's 17104288... need better glasses... interchange with

http://www.shopinjectors.com/fuel-injectors/tb128.htm

Worthing skier
01-17-2013, 04:34 PM
Just got back from the power coaters with 30 plus parts which were in need of some TLC.
All we bead blasted , etched and power coated.

mikeg205
01-17-2013, 04:41 PM
nice progress!

mcparadise
01-17-2013, 05:57 PM
Just got back from the power coaters with 30 plus parts which were in need of some TLC.
All we bead blasted , etched and power coated.

Did you/will you blast and/or powder coat inside the exhaust manifolds/risers? I think I can see some rust? Is this a before pic?

Worthing skier
01-17-2013, 06:12 PM
Did you/will you blast and/or powder coat inside the exhaust manifolds/risers? I think I can see some rust? Is this a before pic?

The blaster process will really only clean the exterior areas, there is a certain amount of red colour left in the inside parts of the manifolds but this will not mater .
I have never known of coating the inside of a manifold specially the exhaust as it will be burnt off , also you do not want any coating on the inlet flaking off later on and going through the engine .
Yes these latest pictures are after the blasting and coating , have a look at the start of the thread for a before picture.

mcparadise
01-17-2013, 06:31 PM
Thanks for the nice info!

Jim@BAWS
01-18-2013, 05:02 PM
one fuel pump that I know of - available online.. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dp60962%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1 %26Dn%3d0%26D%3dp60962%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0 - not available at the stores only online... and about half the price than a marine store.

injector - port side 17014288*ACR and 7184 GM
injector - starboard - 17014288*ACR and 6214 GM

I hace tried going that route as a dealer to save folks a few bucks. If you getg NAPA to
get it...CONGRATS. I have not been able to get that Carter pump as I was told NAPA
no longer stocks them or has a relationship with them

Jim@BAWS

Worthing skier
01-29-2013, 09:28 AM
Hi All

I need to a order a pair of motor box rams , does anyone the correct length of these,
are they the same as a 1993 Prostar 190 ? .

many thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
01-29-2013, 08:12 PM
did you mean the pressure shock hold up the box things?

Worthing skier
01-30-2013, 04:45 PM
Hi Mike G

Yes I need to order a pair the gas rams to lift the engine cover box,
but my local dealer needs to know the length when fully extended,
I think they are 30".

Update on the rest of the project , not moving ahead much as the block is being bored and I am waiting on the pistons , bearings, inlet valves and gasket set , so I am trying to sort a few trim bits.

Kevin

02ProstarSammyD
01-30-2013, 05:06 PM
I thought they were 20 ext, 12 compressed


http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=35684

mikeg205
01-30-2013, 10:42 PM
I'll get the part number off my '95 and post tomorrow.

CC2MC
01-30-2013, 11:20 PM
Here is the model that I have on my 94. SPD-GSNI-5300-60. 20" when extended and 12" compressed as Sammy said.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Spring-SPD-GSNI-5300-60-Strut-Prop-Rod-RV-Camper-/350301239199

mikeg205
01-31-2013, 04:34 PM
Here is the model that I have on my 94. SPD-GSNI-5300-60. 20" when extended and 12" compressed as Sammy said.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Spring-SPD-GSNI-5300-60-Strut-Prop-Rod-RV-Camper-/350301239199

^^ - what I have...

Locally for you ... http://www.goldrv.co.uk/parts/products/1847/gas-springs-20/

Worthing skier
02-02-2013, 06:12 PM
Thanks Mike G

Got them from my local MC dealer @ 8.00 each , bargain.

Checked the fuel pump , powered it up and appears to run up fine , so unless it does not give enough pressure it should be okay .

Worthing skier
02-02-2013, 06:17 PM
Forgot to ask ,

Re the main fuel hoses to and from the fuel tank , do they normally run behind the tank or in front .

thanks

Kevin

Cloaked
02-02-2013, 06:31 PM
Forgot to ask ,

Re the main fuel hoses to and from the fuel tank , do they normally run behind the tank or in front .

thanks

KevinBehind and under on my machine.

Worthing skier
02-06-2013, 05:24 PM
Hello all

Hopefully an easy question this time ,
On the rear wiring loom for the fuel tank sender unit the is a plug/socket with 3 wires
black , pink and green ,
Black and pink are for the tank sender , I am not sure re the green wire , possibly a ground wire for the fuel filler neck but not sure .

Any advice on this.

thanks

Kevin

Table Rocker
02-06-2013, 07:51 PM
Hello all

Hopefully an easy question this time ,
On the rear wiring loom for the fuel tank sender unit the is a plug/socket with 3 wires
black , pink and green ,
Black and pink are for the tank sender , I am not sure re the green wire , possibly a ground wire for the fuel filler neck but not sure .

Any advice on this.

thanks

Kevin
I have a green ground going to the back of the filler neck.

Cloaked
02-06-2013, 08:57 PM
Hello all

Hopefully an easy question this time ,
On the rear wiring loom for the fuel tank sender unit the is a plug/socket with 3 wires
black , pink and green ,
Black and pink are for the tank sender , I am not sure re the green wire , possibly a ground wire for the fuel filler neck but not sure .

Any advice on this.

thanks

KevinThere is a legacy thread here somewhere on the ground wire. Something to this effect: MC said don't ground there, even though we did. Run a ground to another part of the boat and not on the filler neck.

My experience has been to leave the green disconnected. Done deal for me. Fuel sender works and no ground to a fuel filler neck.

Kinda' like the battery sitting within the same enclosed area as the fuel cell (on my 93). Something about that made me uneasy. I moved my battery to the front under the observer seat.

.

Worthing skier
02-10-2013, 09:57 AM
Been trying to get rid of the tide line on the exterior fuel tank ,I cannot bring myself to put back looking the way it does.
Tried truck wash , petrol ,toilet bowl cleaner ,wheel acid all been left to soak and scrubbed but nothing seams to move it .

Any ideas on this

Wet sanded the transom 800 ,1200 then compounded, comes up okay but I can still some light scratches so will need a another pass.
Got rid of all the dirt in the hull , need to compound all the inner gell areas which have been stained by the steel staples used on the trim panels .

Still waiting on the engine block to come back from the shop.

Snipe
02-10-2013, 10:46 AM
Try mixing up a "hefty" solution of Iron Out in a large enough container. Set the tank in and weight it down. Let soak for a couple of hours and rinse it off real good. It does need to soak though; just wetting it won't do much. That does wonders on rusty surfaces, it may just work on this.
Good luck. The project looks like it's moving right along, very impressive.

saltybalty
02-10-2013, 06:02 PM
I wonder if oxyclean would clean the tank or maybe chlorine. Just guessing here

Worthing skier
02-11-2013, 05:35 PM
2 new injector kits arrived today ,
I ended up buying these from Accuratediesel in Bitely,Michigan ,
Tim who works there was spot on all the way , plus a great price .

Snipe
02-11-2013, 05:59 PM
Great!! Do these have to be Marine specific?? If I may ask, how much were they?

Worthing skier
02-11-2013, 06:29 PM
Great!! Do these have to be Marine specific?? If I may ask, how much were they?


Hi

No not Marine specific, MikeG got me the oe injector part number which crossed to the Delphi part .
Kit includes complete seal/gasket set as well.
cost $110.00 for the pair shipped to the Uk

mikeg205
02-12-2013, 09:36 AM
wow... that boat is looking great compared to the beginning post... nice job!!

carisch
02-12-2013, 09:43 AM
Amazing what wet sanding and compounding will do!

Worthing skier
02-12-2013, 05:35 PM
TBI assy now rebuilt with new the injectors.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-12-2013, 06:06 PM
TBI assy now rebuilt with new the injectors.

That looks a little better.

Snipe
02-12-2013, 08:08 PM
That looks alot better. Way to go......

Worthing skier
03-02-2013, 01:55 PM
Hello All


I am still waiting on the block ,so I have been going through the dash wiring .
I have found behind the ignition switch panel 2 relays which do not look original,

It looks like 1 relay has been used to power the pink wire which feeds most of the gauges
, I have taken the relay out of the circuit and powered the gauges etc direct from the acc feed from the ignition switch, surely there is not enough current draw to warrant using a relay ?.

The other relay has been wired into the lanyard safety switch , again I cannot see the use for this relay , does any have a diagram for the lanyard circuit .


thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
03-02-2013, 02:53 PM
wow outstanding job....

Worthing skier
03-02-2013, 06:21 PM
Hi

Does anyone have a diagram showing where the safety kill switch breaks into .

thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
03-03-2013, 10:31 AM
Hope this helps.

Table Rocker
03-03-2013, 09:46 PM
Hi

Does anyone have a diagram showing where the safety kill switch breaks into .

thanks

Kevin
Okay, I went out to the boat and took my ('96) dash apart to see if I could find some answers for you.

On the back of the lanyard switch two purple wires come out and go into a small (pencil sized) loom. This loom goes up to the dash behind the speedometers. One of the purple wires goes down to the ignition switch and the other purple wire takes a 180 degree turn and goes into the large loom that heads for the engine. I looked at the ecm and found a purple wire there. No relays are behind my ignition switch.

It looks like the best way to bypass the lanyard switch would be to take the wire going into the bigger loom and connect it to the ignition switch.

If you have any questions, let me know soon while I still have it apart.

Good luck.

FrankSchwab
03-03-2013, 09:59 PM
Re: Grounding the fuel filler.

This is the text that I snagged off here many moons ago:

No. 2005.APR05.SB-004
SUBJECT: Fuel Fill Ground Wires

In a joint effort, the U.S. Coast Guard, ABYC, NMMA and MasterCraft have recently re-examined the standards re-guarding the bonding of plastic fuel fills with metallic caps and retaining chains. This review is a result of MasterCraft’s discovery that, under certain conditions, an electrostatic discharge can cause a spark during fueling, which could ignite fuel vapors. This finding was recently confirmed in a study performed by IMANNA Laboratories, which showed that if the boat is not in the water, and a land-based fuel pump nozzle comes into contact with or in close proximity to the metallic components of the fuel fill assembly, the connection of the metallic retaining chain and cap of the plastic fuel fill assembly to the boat’s bonding system may create an electrostatic discharge and a spark. This condition does not exist when the boat is in the water, due to the equalization of the ground potentials between the fuel pump nozzle and the boat’s bonding system.

While the chances of ignition of fuel or vapors is unlikely, because of the potential for serious injury if fire or explosion were to occur, MasterCraft, the U.S. Coast Guard, ABYC and NMMA all agree that new and existing installations of this type of fuel fill assembly SHOULD NOT INCLUDE any attachment to the boat’s bonding system. For boats with this type of fuel fill assembly, which are connected via a ground wire to the boat’s bonding sys-tem, such connections should be removed as described herein. However, please note that this directive applies only to PLAS-TIC fuel fill assemblies with metallic caps and retaining chains; the U.S. Coast Guard and ABYC standards still require that any ALL-METALLIC fuel fills continue to be bonded.

Please be advised that all MasterCraft boats (all mod-els) manufactured from the 1999 model year through the present contain plastic fuel fill assemblies with metallic caps and retaining chains manufactured by Perko, Inc., as shown here, and therefore require the corrective action described in this Service Bulletin. However, beginning with Serial Num-ber MBCNLHG3A505, MasterCraft has altered its manufacturing process in accordance with the change in standards by the U.S. Coast Guard and ABYC to no longer attach a grounding wire from the plastic Perko fuel fill assembly to the boat’s bonding system.

The purpose of this Service Bulletin is to direct you to disconnect the ground wire of the fuel fill assembly on all affected MasterCraft boats in accordance with the procedures outlined below. Please note that other than the ground wire itself, removal of the metallic components of the fuel fill assembly is not necessary. This action should be performed at the first available opportunity on all affected boats in your inventory and/or which are brought in for service by customers regardless of the type of service work performed or whether specifically requested by the customer. For further information regarding this issue, you are encouraged to visitwww.uscgboating.com.

PROCEDURE:

Step 1: Locate the fuel fill assembly from inside the hull. Please note that some boat models have two fuel fills, and on those boats, this procedure must be performed on both fuel fills.

Step 2: Locate the green or green-and-yellow-striped ground wire, which is attached to the fuel fill assembly by a small bolt and nut. Use wire cutters to cut the ground wire as close as possible to the plastic fuel fill. Next, follow the ground wire away from the fuel fill and cut the ground wire again as far away as possible from the fuel fill. Remove and discard the piece of ground wire that was cut away to ensure that the consumer will not be able to reattach the ground wire (under the mistaken belief that it should be attached).

Table Rocker
03-03-2013, 10:06 PM
Re: Grounding the fuel filler.



No. 2005.APR05.SB-004
SUBJECT: Fuel Fill Ground Wires

However, please note that this directive applies only to PLAS-TIC fuel fill assemblies with metallic caps and retaining chains; the U.S. Coast Guard and ABYC standards still require that any ALL-METALLIC fuel fills continue to be bonded.

Please be advised that all MasterCraft boats (all mod-els) manufactured from the 1999 model year through the present contain plastic fuel fill assemblies with metallic caps and retaining chains manufactured by Perko, Inc., as shown here, and therefore require the corrective action described in this Service Bulletin. However, beginning with Serial Num-ber MBCNLHG3A505, MasterCraft has altered its manufacturing process in accordance with the change in standards by the U.S. Coast Guard and ABYC to no longer attach a grounding wire from the plastic Perko fuel fill assembly to the boat’s bonding system.
So by those instructions, pre-'99 boats which have metal filler necks should keep the green grounding wire, correct?

Worthing skier
03-04-2013, 06:03 PM
Okay, I went out to the boat and took my ('96) dash apart to see if I could find some answers for you.

On the back of the lanyard switch two purple wires come out and go into a small (pencil sized) loom. This loom goes up to the dash behind the speedometers. One of the purple wires goes down to the ignition switch and the other purple wire takes a 180 degree turn and goes into the large loom that heads for the engine. I looked at the ecm and found a purple wire there. No relays are behind my ignition switch.

It looks like the best way to bypass the lanyard switch would be to take the wire going into the bigger loom and connect it to the ignition switch.

If you have any questions, let me know soon while I still have it apart.

Good luck.


Hello


Many thanks for your help and the info ,
as I thought ,the relays are not a standard fitment ,
I think they were to do with boat previously being run on Gas (or LPG in the USA)
will remove them and re wire the kill switch circuit ..

rgds

Kevin

Table Rocker
03-04-2013, 06:18 PM
Hello


Many thanks for your help and the info ,
as I thought ,the relays are not a standard fitment ,
I think they were to do with boat previously being run on Gas (or LPG in the USA)
will remove them and re wire the kill switch circuit ..

rgds

KevinGlad to help. Let me know if you need anything else. I still have the panel off.

Worthing skier
03-19-2013, 06:26 PM
Had the ski pole polished at a local metal polisher ,
It has come out with a near chrome finish ,
not too sure on its finish as I prefer the mat alloy look, but it has remove lots of marks.

Has anyone ever bought the plastic insert on the top of the pole ?

thanks


Kevin

Snipe
03-19-2013, 06:28 PM
Is it hard to get out??

Worthing skier
03-19-2013, 07:02 PM
Is it hard to get out??

No , it is just a allen bolt in the top of the pole .
Have not tried to undo it yet , will do once the pole is fixed back in the boat .

Worthing skier
04-08-2013, 08:11 AM
Well its been a few weeks of not a lot going on ,
hope to get the block back very soon ,
Does any of you kind people know the torque settings for the big ends, mains and head bolts .

Many thanks in advance

Kevin

supturb89
05-10-2013, 12:00 AM
Any updates?

nkorep2
05-10-2013, 01:11 AM
They should be near 90-120 ft/lbs

Worthing skier
05-12-2013, 05:23 PM
Hi there


Thanks for the interest ,
still waiting on getting the block back , it is been done at "Mates Rates" so I have to be patient , should not be too much longer .
Anyway the sun has now come out and its a bit warmer here so I am skiing with the 1993 Prostar at the moment .

Will post as soon as the block is back

rgds

Kevin

sd209
05-29-2013, 05:34 PM
any new updates?

Worthing skier
07-20-2013, 05:41 PM
Hi all

Being a bit quite on this project as I am still waiting on the block to come back,
however a few months ago I booked a guy to make a snap on cover which I thought would happen after the engine was complete, things never work out how you plan .

Anyway the weather has been really good here so we have got plenty of great skiing in ,

will keep you posted once the block is back.

mikeg205
07-20-2013, 06:56 PM
How's the interior coming along... looks great... what are you skiing behind... let's see some UK skier videos.. :)

Worthing skier
07-21-2013, 05:43 AM
Hi Mike

Heres a pic of the current MC , will post up some pics of the interior and dig out some ski vids.

Kevin

mikeg205
07-21-2013, 08:57 AM
Nice - I don't know anything of U.K. waters... accept for the famous one we all know of ;)

Worthing skier
07-21-2013, 04:46 PM
Hello Mike

heres a shot of the current state of the interior .

Kevin

mikeg205
07-21-2013, 05:36 PM
wow Kevin,

That looks like a completely different boat from the first few pic's in this thread... Awesome...
!!!

Worthing skier
07-21-2013, 05:52 PM
Hello All

I will need alternator soon ,
The original 1 fitted is an automotive type so I cannot cross refer it .
Does a Mer-cruiser type fit from a Chevy engine , also what is the correct amp rating.

Any other info on this would be great ,

thanks


Kevin

mikeg205
07-21-2013, 06:04 PM
should be 51-55 amps... you need marine certified. www.skidim.com has them. I bought one form NAPA.. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Alternator-New-Power-Sport/_/R-RPS7465PS_0381521642 -

I believe this one will work as well. http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=2013

scott023
07-21-2013, 07:47 PM
Hello Mike

heres a shot of the current state of the interior .

Kevin

Dang, that looks fantastic. Amazing job.

mikeg205
07-21-2013, 07:48 PM
Dang, that looks fantastic. Amazing job.

Dang? ? - now you're sounding like your avatar... ;)

Worthing skier
07-22-2013, 09:57 AM
Hello


I have found this alternator in the UK , looks ok , any advise on this .


thanks


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200909609076?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch% 2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D20090 9609076%26_rdc%3D1

mikeg205
07-22-2013, 10:25 AM
Hello


I have found this alternator in the UK , looks ok , any advise on this .


thanks


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200909609076?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch% 2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D20090 9609076%26_rdc%3D1

Looks correct...

Worthing skier
07-24-2013, 09:52 AM
Hi Mike

thanks for the advise ,I have ordered it .

rgds

Kevin

Worthing skier
07-24-2013, 06:26 PM
Finally got the block back tonight and dropped in .

Just looking at the damper plate, I cannot remember which way it faces
i.e does the side with springs protruding, go towards the flywheel or gearbox side.

many thanks

Kevin

Worthing skier
07-25-2013, 04:45 AM
Hi

I need the torque settings for the flywheel to crank bolts , also later on I will need the the head bolt settings , does anyone have this info.

thanks

Kevin

Legolamb
07-25-2013, 08:19 AM
Found this site with torque specs:
http://www.rapidomarine.com/default.aspx?p=/torque-specs-chevy.aspx

When I did mine, I also put a bit of red locktight on the threads, 60 ft/lbs for the flywheel to crank bolts (hardened bolts) and 35 ft/lbs for damper plate to flywheel.

You want the flat side of the damper plate mounted to the flywheel (springs on transmission side, depending on style of plate)

mikeg205
07-25-2013, 10:31 AM
Looking awesome - can't wait to see this girl running...

thatsmrmastercraft
07-25-2013, 10:48 AM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=98247&stc=1&d=1374700963

There is just something alluring about naked pistons.:rolleyes:

Worthing skier
07-30-2013, 11:17 AM
Thanks guys for the answers ,

I bought the alternator from eBay , but its a non ignition protected type so its going straight back .

Found another supplier , which looks to be ok , my next question is this engine this engine a L/H or R/H rotation .


Many thanks


Kevin

Worthing skier
07-31-2013, 09:34 AM
Hi All

I am still trying to locate an alternator ,
Does anyone know what make the standard item is , ie Delco, prestoilte, Motorola etc
and if the 1 of the attached would fit .

thanks again

Kevin

wheelerd
07-31-2013, 12:01 PM
Compare the ones here http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1174 and match with your application.
Delco is GM's "house" brand; Prestolite is typically Ford -- that narrows things down a bit.

Tateau18
08-01-2013, 01:03 AM
Try this place. I have bought many starters and alternators from them and they will ship internationally. Not sure which alt or engine you have and honestly I'm too lazy tonight to look back through to figure out.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/c-7766-indmar.aspx

JayBrown
08-01-2013, 07:51 PM
Wow nice job it look great, hope you get it in the water soon.

Worthing skier
08-03-2013, 06:42 AM
Thanks all for the advice on the alternator , got another one on its way .

I stripped down the Morse control lever ages ago ,
not sure on a point on its re assembly,
simple question when selecting forward on the gear lever does the arm on the gearbox move forward as well ? .
The gearbox is Hurth 1.1

Many thanks again

Kevin

mikeg205
08-05-2013, 10:14 PM
Thanks all for the advice on the alternator , got another one on its way .

I stripped down the Morse control lever ages ago ,
not sure on a point on its re assembly,
simple question when selecting forward on the gear lever does the arm on the gearbox move forward as well ? .
The gearbox is Hurth 1.1

Many thanks again

Kevin

lever on gear box moves aft when morse control pushed toward bow.

Worthing skier
08-07-2013, 11:11 AM
Hello Mike

Thanks for checking on this for me ,
glad I asked as I have put it back the wrong way ,

rgds

Kevin

Worthing skier
08-21-2013, 04:53 AM
Hi all

On my 1993 190 , the swim platform has just been damaged , will the platform
From the 1996 I am restoring drop straight on,


Thanks

Worthing skier
09-08-2013, 07:03 PM
Got the heads back at long last ,
Just screwed them down and starting to fit it up.

Voodoo
09-08-2013, 07:59 PM
Nice. Can't wait for that baby to get fired up.

bikenskijerm
09-10-2013, 04:10 PM
Hi all

On my 1993 190 , the swim platform has just been damaged , will the platform
From the 1996 I am restoring drop straight on,


Thanks

I believe the 93 is a much flatter transom when compared to the 96. I previously owned a 96 and a friend owns a 93 and when I was out with him a couple weeks ago I was noticing what I believe to be a pretty big difference regarding platforms.

Worthing skier
09-10-2013, 04:14 PM
Hello all

A few electrical questions ,

The oil pressure gauge is always showing max pressure, but by disconnecting the sensor wire it drops back ,
Checked the resistance of the sensor 250 ohms at rest and decreases by applying compressed air to 5 ohms, so I would think the sensor is ok , got a good feed and earth at the gauge ,any ideas ?.

I do not have a trigger at the fuel pump relay (green /white wire)
does it switch pos or neg ?
I think this comes direct from the ECU , is the fuel pump relay feed as soon as the ign is on or is only when the ECU sees a crank signal ?

Also have a good feed to the injectors but when cranking the is no neg pulse .

Any help would be greatly received.

thanks

Kevin

Worthing skier
09-12-2013, 05:41 PM
Well I think the ecu has gone down ,
checked with wiring diagram and have got all the necessary feeds and earths
But I have no trigger from the ecu to fuel pump relay , no switched earth for the injectors when cranking , no 5v feed to tps and no feed to the ISC.
Ign coil is being switched when cranked .


I have a ecu number 16189069 , I have found a used ecu with a number of 16234539 which has come from a v6 Mer-cruiser , can I get this reflashed to work ?

Or have I over looked something ?

thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
09-12-2013, 05:57 PM
Should be delco mefi 2 I believe.

Fuel pump should prime when key switched to on.

Worthing skier
09-12-2013, 06:52 PM
Hi Mike

I think mine (16189069) is a MEFI-1 as per www.obd2allinone.com/sc/toplevel.asp?cat=32

I have no feed to the fuel pump relay from the ECU , hence why I think the ECU has failed.

Also have found another ECU (16159919) will this work?

thanks

mikeg205
09-12-2013, 07:31 PM
Mefi 1 should be gray.. Iirc ... Not sure of part numbers...

Worthing skier
09-13-2013, 07:29 AM
Hi Mike

Which bit should be grey ?

thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
09-13-2013, 12:18 PM
I looked on your site.. The gray color information came from my clymer manual. But I see on your site they are both MEFI 1 and 2 are black.. I would go with the web site info.

Worthing skier
09-18-2013, 12:15 PM
Hello all

Still working through the loom issues, now run the fuel pump and it sounds a bit noisy and erratic in its operation , was there a well priced supplier that you can recommend.

thanks


Kevin

mikeg205
09-18-2013, 12:47 PM
rick auto -

rock auto $84

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...6-P60987-88113 - let me know if they can't ship to the UK.

If they can't I can help you out.

mike

thatsmrmastercraft
09-18-2013, 12:53 PM
rick auto -

rock auto $84

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...6-P60987-88113 - let me know if they can't ship to the UK.

If they can't I can help you out.

mike

Mike, that link doesn't work.

mikeg205
09-18-2013, 12:57 PM
www.rockauto.com search for part - p60987 - thanks for catching that peter

Worthing skier
09-18-2013, 04:03 PM
Hello Mike

Many thanks for the advice .

Kind rgds


Kevin

Worthing skier
09-21-2013, 09:35 AM
Update

We my suspicions about the ecu condition were correct ,
I have found and fitted a used ecu from a mercruiser v6 efi and it runs up nearly ok.
So need to get the original ecu repaired, we do have some repairs over here ,so will let them have a go .

Also I need to set the ignition timing , does anyone know the setting and is there a grounding wire for this ?

thanks

kevin

Worthing skier
09-22-2013, 02:19 PM
Hello

Is it worth me buying a Clymer manual for things like timing etc,
does it cover topics like this.

thanks

mikeg205
09-23-2013, 12:06 AM
Hello

Is it worth me buying a Clymer manual for things like timing etc,
does it cover topics like this.

thanks

I bought one and it's handy to have. Regarding the ECU - I believe you will need the ECU programmer harness to program. CantRepeat has a good resource. I believe this is the place. http://www.azspeed-marine.com/mefi4becu.html - I am sure you can probably find someone in the EU.

Worthing skier
10-02-2013, 03:50 PM
Well I have found and bought a used ecu from the US at a great price , so she is now up and running ,also replaced the ISC as it had seized up .

Still need to check and reset the ign timing .



I have read about disconnecting the plug to the distributor and putting a timing shunt in , but as soon as i disconnect this the engine cuts out

Does anyone have the correct procedure for this .

Many thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
10-02-2013, 04:00 PM
Well I have found and bought a used ecu from the US at a great price , so she is now up and running ,also replaced the ISC as it had seized up .

Still need to check and reset the ign timing .



I have read about disconnecting the plug to the distributor and putting a timing shunt in , but as soon as i disconnect this the engine cuts out

Does anyone have the correct procedure for this .

Many thanks

Kevin

running is a great start... yay!

Worthing skier
10-07-2013, 09:35 AM
I found an old post re the ignition timing ,which shows shorting the A and B wires together on the diagnostic plug , also bring the idle up to 1000 , which gives you a base timing setting so I have adjusted to 10BTDC , this seamed to have worked .

My next question is re the engine check light , it does not illuminate , it appears that 1 side of the bulb is permanently grounded so I would expect the ecu to switch a poss feed to make it illuminate ? .

However the gearbox over heat light is also wired with a permanent ground , the switch is a ground switch , so the light cannot work , easy fix to swap the permanent side to a live .

Does anyone have a diagram of the warning light circuit , also should it illuminate when the ignition is turned on ?

Thanks

Kevin

chrislandy
10-07-2013, 11:05 AM
Hi Kevin,
I found out this year on my 96 that the check engine light was never wired in! the light should come on when you put the ignition on and deluminate once it's running (or stay on if there's a fault).

There was a brown (brown-black?) wire at the back of the engine just above the gearbox that wasn't connected to anything and a white 2 pin plug/socket which didn't have anything coming out from one side (waterproofing bungs in both of the holes), I seem to remember it connected to the orange wire but I'd recommend you check first as the colours changed as I went through the wiring. I opened up the black cover thats fixed to the head at the rear and traced the wires from plug to plug. Connected it up and the light came on for what I suspect was for the first time in 17 years.

Worthing skier
10-26-2013, 05:28 AM
Hello All again

I am still stuck on the alternator ,
I have found one over here ,
but I cannot cross reference to check if will fit .
this is the link to the one I have found.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350865431527?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Can anyone advise if thiswill fit or have some part number I can check on .

Many thanks

Kevin

Cloaked
10-26-2013, 11:20 AM
Hello All again

I am still stuck on the alternator ,
I have found one over here ,
but I cannot cross reference to check if will fit .
this is the link to the one I have found.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350865431527?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Can anyone advise if thiswill fit or have some part number I can check on .

Many thanks

Kevin
Here's my cross reference to compare ==> http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-3609-new-105-amp-delco-marine-alternator-mercruiser-1-wire-adr0334.aspx

Click on the small picture in the flea-bay ad and enlarge it to see the comparison specifications.

Whereas, I replaced the OEM alternator on a 93 190 (351 Ford / Indmar) which fits the bracket and the install application with the wiring. You have one hot wire, the exciter is built in, and the mounting bracket to the engine block is your ground. Just cap of the currently existing exciter wire and tuck it away.

Here's another place to look for confirmation of cross reference numbers. == http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/c/ALLCHARGEa/
What is your OEM alternator?

Your 96 is a Chevrolet engine best I recall, so there may be a slight difference in mounting but I don't think there is a significant delta between the 93 Ford and the 96 Chevy mounting, unless I am not seeing the mounting assembly correctly for your 96. Here's the install on the 93 that is currently in my garage.

.

Worthing skier
10-27-2013, 01:58 PM
Thanks "Clocked" for the info.

As you mentioned the alternator lives on the other side on the Chevy setup.
So I am going to take a chance an buy the one I have found on eBay .

Engine is now running nearly ok , but i still have a few snags to work through .

Sort closed cooling system
Alternator
Engine check light does not work
Oil leak from front timing cover area .
Replace sticking throttle cable

will keep you posted.

Kevin

mikeg205
10-27-2013, 02:22 PM
Here's my cross reference to compare ==> http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-3609-new-105-amp-delco-marine-alternator-mercruiser-1-wire-adr0334.aspx

Click on the small picture in the flea-bay ad and enlarge it to see the comparison specifications.

Whereas, I replaced the OEM alternator on a 93 190 (351 Ford / Indmar) which fits the bracket and the install application with the wiring. You have one hot wire, the exciter is built in, and the mounting bracket to the engine block is your ground. Just cap of the currently existing exciter wire and tuck it away.

Here's another place to look for confirmation of cross reference numbers. == http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/c/ALLCHARGEa/
What is your OEM alternator?

Your 96 is a Chevrolet engine best I recall, so there may be a slight difference in mounting but I don't think there is a significant delta between the 93 Ford and the 96 Chevy mounting, unless I am not seeing the mounting assembly correctly for your 96. Here's the install on the 93 that is currently in my garage.

.

Hey Cloaked - there's a bit of dust in your bilge.. just sayin' ;)

mikeg205
10-27-2013, 02:24 PM
Hello All again

I am still stuck on the alternator ,
I have found one over here ,
but I cannot cross reference to check if will fit .
this is the link to the one I have found.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350865431527?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Can anyone advise if thiswill fit or have some part number I can check on .

Many thanks

Kevin

Looks correct Kevin, I was considering that alternator - the prestolite part cross reference is correct. I went with the NAPA Auto because I could pick it up locally.

Awesome job bringing her back to life.

Worthing skier
11-24-2013, 01:45 PM
Hello all

still working through a few snags , the throttle cable is sticky in its operation , the old item is 5.75m (18f 10 3/8inc ) total length , before I buy a replacement can anyone confirm this is the correct length .

thanks

Kevin

Worthing skier
12-04-2013, 04:40 PM
Hello all

As the tittle says I am now looking as to why the dash engine check light does operate ,I have traced it down the the wire in the engine loom (Brown/black tracer) which has just been taped up in the the loom and not connected .
Looking at a wiring diagram it looks like the wire from the data plug (brown /white tracer) is the output from the ecu to control the check light .

I think that by connecting the wire from the dash bulb in the engine harness with the wire from the data plug should operate it

Has anyone any info on this circuit .


thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
12-04-2013, 06:01 PM
Check here worthing...

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/o91j4vsfromgu2x/r0N1CR5VtR

I have the manual for the ECU in the TBI folder.

Worthing skier
12-04-2013, 06:40 PM
Hi Mike

thanks for the TBI info ,
I already have this but I am not sure on the way to connect the TBI loom to the dash light .

Worthing skier
12-08-2013, 12:51 PM
Hello All


Fitted in the new throttle cable , but I was not happy with the feel and operation of the lever so I have pulled it completely bits to find 3 broken springs all causing different issues .

1. Spring at the lower part of the lever handle broken , with this broken it allows the lever to go in and out of gear without using the safety pull up lever .

2.Horizontal spring inside small gearbox broken ,this pushes on a detente ball which gives the feel when you have selected forward or reverse ,I could not feel the point when a gear had been selected.

3. Spring on outer throttle cable slider broken , this was allowing the throttle cable to pull before a gear had been fully engaged.

This may help if you have these sort of issues .


Kevin

thatsmrmastercraft
12-08-2013, 12:55 PM
Hello All


Fitted in the new throttle cable , but I was not happy with the feel and operation of the lever so I have pulled it completely bits to find 3 broken springs all causing different issues .

1. Spring at the lower part of the lever handle broken , with this broken it allows the lever to go in and out of gear without using the safety pull up lever .

2.Horizontal spring inside small gearbox broken ,this pushes on a detente ball which gives the feel when you have selected forward or reverse ,I could not feel the point when a gear had been selected.

3. Spring on outer throttle cable slider broken , this was allowing the throttle cable to pull before a gear had been fully engaged.

This may help if you have these sort of issues .


Kevin

I bet that feels a whole lot better when you get it all back together. I pulled the throttle apart last year on my '77 and found 35 years of old grease and sand. Just a simple cleaning made a huge difference. Throttle lever clicks crisply in and out of gear now.

mikeg205
12-08-2013, 01:05 PM
Hi Mike

thanks for the TBI info ,
I already have this but I am not sure on the way to connect the TBI loom to the dash light .

drk blue wire? pin j2-26?

brn wht wire? pin J2-31?

the other to just ground? (earth?)

I will see if I can see the wires without pulling dash and post up a picture - probably after Christmas holidays.

PAGE 5.7?

Snipe
12-08-2013, 02:45 PM
Hello All


Fitted in the new throttle cable , but I was not happy with the feel and operation of the lever so I have pulled it completely bits to find 3 broken springs all causing different issues .

1. Spring at the lower part of the lever handle broken , with this broken it allows the lever to go in and out of gear without using the safety pull up lever .

2.Horizontal spring inside small gearbox broken ,this pushes on a detente ball which gives the feel when you have selected forward or reverse ,I could not feel the point when a gear had been selected.

3. Spring on outer throttle cable slider broken , this was allowing the throttle cable to pull before a gear had been fully engaged.

This may help if you have these sort of issues .


Kevin
Great tip........as always the pictures really help.:toast:

Worthing skier
12-08-2013, 04:03 PM
Hi Mike ,seasonal greetings

Thats chucked a spanner in the works ,
I did not see there was a second trigger wire that could switch the check light ,
I think I will do a bit more research and wait for some more info on this.

thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
12-08-2013, 05:37 PM
Sounds good. ... Have a great holiday as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

mikeg205
01-02-2014, 01:50 PM
HEre's another at a decent price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MEFI-1-/321288742979?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

Worthing skier
01-11-2014, 11:22 AM
Just been looking at why the fuel gauge reads lower that the actual amount in the tank.
Guess PO has fitted a sender which is too short .

Should correct length be a 12" as per the total depth of the tank ?

thanks

Kevin

Snipe
01-11-2014, 12:14 PM
If you have an Introit sender this note might help. I got this from the Introit company to calibrate My sender:
BTW the sender should be about one inch off the bottom.

Ethanol is a big complication for capacitance-based senders, of which our is one. Fuel with 10% ethanol has twice the capacitance of fuel without ethanol. That means if a sender were calibrated for fuel with 10% ethanol but was used in fuel without ethanol, it would only read 1/2 at full. And the percent ethanol can be anywhere between 0 and 10%-- we have about 5% in the Daytona Beach area last I measured.
To correct for that, we have a Full Detection stinger toward the top of the sender. The scheme the sender uses is:
--Sender powers up with a reading below 1/2. This "arms" the Full Detection

--Sender power up with armed Full Detection and the Full Detection stinger in fuel. It assumes the tank has been filled and sets that amount of capacitance as the current Full cal. Each tankful would repeat that process.



I'm guessing that you may have powered up with the tank not yet full but will with fuel on the Full Detection stinger, as part of your testing by filling, and that created a false Full Detection. So for this tankful you'll read above Full until you get down to that level, and then on down. When you refill with an actual full tank, it will correct itself, assuming its been powered up with a reading below 1/2 before that (the reason for the arming at 1/2 or lower is to insure that fuel on the FD stinger is not just due to a tilted tank).

Snipe
01-11-2014, 12:19 PM
After looking at your picture a little closer, I really think that you have one of those with the magnet inside. Search on this site, they can be repaired. The magnet has a way of seperating from its position.

Worthing skier
01-11-2014, 12:53 PM
Hi

Thanks for the answer ,
yes it is the type with a magnet inside ,and yes it had come off , so I have glued it back on to the float.
With sender out of the tank , I have done a resistance check , and it rises and falls as per the location of the float .
You are correct , I have not filled the tank with fuel , and now it only has 1/3 in it ,but the gauge only just read off empty.

I thought these senders just changed their resistance as per the position of the float .

If the sender is 2" off the bottom of the tank it will never register fuel on the gauge until the float starts to lift above 2",unless I am missing something .

Snipe
01-11-2014, 01:29 PM
You're right. The note I got for my unit is just for that unit. I think your diagnosis is correct. Maybe someone with that kind of unit can chime in and get you up to speed. I hope you get your answer.

mikeg205
01-11-2014, 02:53 PM
Hi

Thanks for the answer ,
yes it is the type with a magnet inside ,and yes it had come off , so I have glued it back on to the float.
With sender out of the tank , I have done a resistance check , and it rises and falls as per the location of the float .
You are correct , I have not filled the tank with fuel , and now it only has 1/3 in it ,but the gauge only just read off empty.

I thought these senders just changed their resistance as per the position of the float .

If the sender is 2" off the bottom of the tank it will never register fuel on the gauge until the float starts to lift above 2",unless I am missing something .

how many gallons/liters before it hits the float?

also - when you hit "E" you know you really need gas, mine is the same way - plus I never let it get less than a 1/4 tank - not many fueling stations on my river.. ;)

Table Rocker
01-11-2014, 03:51 PM
If you look inside your tank you will see that there is a box inside the tank. The box is rectangular and can be removed via the rectangular hatch where you removed the sender. Your sender doesn't reach the bottom of the tank and neither does your fuel pickup. They reach the bottom of that box.

The sender has 8 little mercury switches that change when the magnet is above them. Your fuel gauge should change in 1/8 increments. (F, 7/8, 3/4, 5/8, 1/2, 3/8, 1/4, 1/8, E) Any resistance on the negative wire/contacts or lower voltage on the positive will result in lower readings at the gauge. While the sending unit is out of the boat, move the float up and down and watch your gauge.

Play around with it a bit, and make sure your connections are good as is your voltage.

Good luck.

Worthing skier
01-11-2014, 07:00 PM
Thanks Guys

I think I have found the answer ,
the tank depth I have is 12" ,
the sender unit currently fitted is 10" ,
on the Skidim site it advises to use a 11" sender with a 12" tank.

So I think the i need a 11" sender .

http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1088&val=0&pagenumber=1

Kevin

Worthing skier
01-12-2014, 06:20 AM
HEre's another at a decent price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MEFI-1-/321288742979?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

Thanks Mike for the tip on this ,
I bought it and its on its way to me .

Worthing skier
01-20-2014, 04:21 PM
Hello Mike

Re the ISC , please see the image ,(new part is the top one).
They look exactly the same and I am sure I did find a cross reference for the AC51 to the OE one .

What do you think ?

thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
01-20-2014, 05:51 PM
AC495 looks closer to the original - not sure what the difference is - but the stepping may not be the same... also the valve head on the ac495 is completely round - unlike the ac51 - could make a difference in how much air comes in... maybe someone else will chime in,

Worthing skier
01-20-2014, 06:54 PM
Thanks Mike

I will run the engine again over the week and disconnect the ISC to see what the idle does then .
Also will post a vid of it running , as the surging is a slow rpm change , maybe I am missing something completely different .

Kevin

mikeg205
01-20-2014, 09:48 PM
Thanks Mike

I will run the engine again over the week and disconnect the ISC to see what the idle does then .
Also will post a vid of it running , as the surging is a slow rpm change , maybe I am missing something completely different .

Kevin

Surging at idle usually indicates too much air running my IAC - as I understand it - did some digging around... it's possible your new part is malfunctioning. Where you able to give a bit more RPM and see how it ran - by pulling the transmission lockout knob?

Worthing skier
01-21-2014, 09:08 AM
Hello Mike

re the ISC , the AC495 does cross reference to a part number 17059602 which I can buy over here ,
ebay item number 261138198406.

Are you reasonably happy that the AC495 is the correct number and furthermore does this cross reference look good .

many thanks


Kevin

mikeg205
01-21-2014, 10:49 AM
Hello Mike

re the ISC , the AC495 does cross reference to a part number 17059602 which I can buy over here ,
ebay item number 261138198406.

Are you reasonably happy that the AC495 is the correct number and furthermore does this cross reference look good .

many thanks


Kevin

Now I am not sure... doing some more checking. there are many IAC that look exactly alike but have different part numbers. I believe your IAC is wrong and the one I gave may be wrong too. I want to find the right cross reference to have on file. Indmar probably had used the LT1 IAC for those years but there are two of them...

www.skidim.com has the correct one.... but it's a bit pricey.

mikeg205
01-21-2014, 11:19 AM
hey Kevin,

Now I am completely confused as I dig more... hopefully someone will chime in.

I am 100% sure the one you bought is wrong... there are two that I found from that time period for the LT1 which is used on the regular TBI. They are the AC5 and the AC125 depending on the VIN number of the car.

http://bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=2026 - however, the picture indicates a pin in the housing that the AC5 and AC125 do not have. http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R084002 indicates the pin in the housing as well.

are there any other markings on your original part? - I really want to find this part.

The AC5 from standard products is for the non dual overhead cam of that the corvette ZR-1 came with.

mikeg205
01-21-2014, 12:32 PM
Found it -

http://www.standardbrand.com/online%20catalogs-ecatalog/content.aspx

part AC-Delco #217-429 and GM part #17113099. I found this out the hard way when I bought the $170 MC Part # S556094 and it came with a MC sticker covering ...

www.skidim.com confirms the Indmar part number...

Throttle Body Injection IAC, GM 94 and up and LT1 Corvette. Indmar old PT # 55-6085 now superceeded by S556094.

Worthing skier
01-21-2014, 04:40 PM
Good evening Mike,

Thanks for finding this ,

So looking at the Standard brand web site and the 2 part numbers you have quoted
(217-429 & 17113099) they both cross over to a AC27 or AC27T .
So on good old eBay item number 330982610530 looks good ,

What do you think ?.

Kevin

Worthing skier
01-22-2014, 02:45 PM
Hello Mike

What are your thoughts on the AC27 or AC27T as an alternative ,
ebay item number 330982610530 .

thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
01-22-2014, 02:51 PM
Hello Mike

What are your thoughts on the AC27 or AC27T as an alternative ,
ebay item number 330982610530 .

thanks

Kevin

I would go with the AC27 the T is a cheaper version per

http://www.standardbrand.com/online%20catalogs-ecatalog/content.aspx

Standard T-Series is a competitively priced line containing some of the most popular part numbers to help you meet your market needs. The Standard T-Series is a fit whenever a commercially acceptable product is called for.

Worthing skier
01-22-2014, 03:22 PM
Hi Mike

Thanks for the answer , just bought a A27 , and its on its way .
I will let know the outcome once it arrives as at the price they are it is a very cheap fix .

thanks again .

Kevin

mikeg205
01-22-2014, 03:34 PM
Hi Mike

Thanks for the answer , just bought a A27 , and its on its way .
I will let know the outcome once it arrives as at the price they are it is a very cheap fix .

thanks again .

Kevin

awesome - looking forward to reading it.

Worthing skier
01-22-2014, 03:34 PM
I have found and bought a used alternator , which I have been told was an original fitment from the same boat as mine .

I just want to confirm the hook up for the 2x wires ,

In the attached image ,
the top right (poss output) is the main 12v output .
bottom left (exc ) is the exciter wire , just a 12v feed for the alternator to look at.

Thanks

Kevin

mikeg205
01-22-2014, 03:36 PM
Looks like my old one.. easy on the battery post - that is connected to a plastic chassis for the rectifier...that break very easily due to age - don't ask how I know ;)

Worthing skier
02-09-2014, 06:29 AM
Hi All

Just to share with all a way I have found to check the Tbi injectors are switching or to
de-pressurize the the fuel system.

Use a tv remote battery and to power the injector , as simple as that .

Snipe
02-09-2014, 09:31 AM
Hi All

Just to share with all a way I have found to check the Tbi injectors are switching or to
de-pressurize the the fuel system.

Use a tv remote battery and to power the injector , as simple as that .
Be careful of a SPARK...

mikeg205
02-09-2014, 11:10 AM
Hi All

Just to share with all a way I have found to check the Tbi injectors are switching or to
de-pressurize the the fuel system.

Use a tv remote battery and to power the injector , as simple as that .

some times things are too easy... +1 on worrying about a spark though..

Snipe
02-09-2014, 12:41 PM
Hi All

Just to share with all a way I have found to check the Tbi injectors are switching or to
de-pressurize the the fuel system.

Use a tv remote battery and to power the injector , as simple as that .

some times things are too easy... +1 on worrying about a spark though..

Mike,
If he would use a couple of alligator clips and wire long enough to get away from the fumes, that is a great idea.

Worthing skier
03-14-2014, 04:10 PM
awesome - looking forward to reading it.

Hi Mike

Finally got there with ISC valve after 1 lost in post and 2 wrong sent parts ,
I used a Delphi CV10027 @ $58 .
It has sorted the idle issues and sits @ 750 rpm with no fluctuation.

Many thanks for help on this one ,

Kevin

mikeg205
03-14-2014, 04:22 PM
Hi Mike

Finally got there with ISC valve after 1 lost in post and 2 wrong sent parts ,
I used a Delphi CV10027 @ $58 .
It has sorted the idle issues and sits @ 750 rpm with no fluctuation.

Many thanks for help on this one ,

Kevin

awesome!! I am looking forward to some action pictures and vids with this awesome project of yours.

mikeg205
03-23-2014, 07:25 PM
any updated pics?

Worthing skier
04-22-2014, 04:17 PM
Hi Mike & all

Bit of an update , ended up junking the closed water system and converting it back to an open cooling system ,found a used OE alternator on net and the correct engine cover at local MC dealer .
So I think I have just about sorted everything hope to get in the water in the next couple of weeks .

Will post up as and when it happens .

Kevin

mikeg205
04-22-2014, 04:20 PM
awesome!!!

thatsmrmastercraft
04-22-2014, 04:42 PM
Looking great!

Worthing skier
04-24-2014, 05:49 PM
Hello again

I am trying to get a ecu i have re flashed with correct calibration to my boat,

Now I thought the system I have is a MEFI 1 ,
however I am being advised that due to the casting number on my TBI (17097230) it is a high pressure fuel system 27-33 psi which is for a MEFI 2.

Larry @ Indmar has been a star in helping me with this, but I just want to clarify what is correct.


thanks

Kevin