1996 Pro Star Restoroation - Another winter project

[Worthing skier]

Another winter project ,

Nearly there with buying this boat ,
Been stood in the corner of a field for 6 years not covered and the worst bit with the hull drain bug still installed, the first thing I did when I saw it was to remove the bug .
I have been told that the boat was at one time was nearly full up with water inside , hence loads of internal water damage .
Keen price , will post as this one moves on .

Kevin

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[petermegan]

Holy ****! Whoever did that to a boat needs a thumpin. Electrics will be a nightmare with the Motor let alone guages. Hull and tower look good. Gooood luck. Have fun

[thatsmrmastercraft]

Looks like a fine project at the right price. Good luck.

[snork]

good things theres no wood in the construction

[mikeg205]

95 or is that a 96..... a little wd40 on that alternator should take care of it...:D

Good luck...can't wait to see the on going pics...the ski pylon show the waterline....

Can't imagine someone having something that cost that much and not give a flyin'....you know what.

ooo...just realized - waterline over tranny... that could be a real problem too.... dang... did you get from original owner?

[gatorguy]

:DI can't belive you're wearing your shoes in that boat. We have a no shoes rule on ours.:D

[MC209]

you got your hands full with that one! looks super fun!

[mikeg205]

:uglyhamme:uglyhamme:uglyhamme:DI can't belive you're wearing your shoes in that boat. We have a no shoes rule on ours.:D

[ahhudgins]

[QUOTE=mgorczak1;878119]95 or is that a 96..... a little wd40 on that alternator should take care of it...:D

QUOTE]

I think I'd throw a new belt on it while I was in there! :D

I'd like to walk up to the person who let that boat go to waste and slap them on the forehead and say "No....No.....No!"

[mikeg205]

[QUOTE=mgorczak1;878119]95 or is that a 96..... a little wd40 on that alternator should take care of it...:D

QUOTE]

I think I'd throw a new belt on it while I was in there! :D

I'd like to walk up to the person who let that boat go to waste and slap them on the forehead and say "No....No.....No!"

:uglyhamme:uglyhamme:uglyhamme


Right ah.... some of us work way to hard to get a great piece of equipment like this...it's sooo hard seeing someone let one go to waste...at least sell the the boat to someone who cares before it rots.

[19_Skier]

95 or is that a 96..... a little wd40 on that alternator should take care of it...:D

Good luck...can't wait to see the on going pics...the ski pylon show the waterline....

Can't imagine someone having something that cost that much and not give a flyin'....you know what.

ooo...just realized - waterline over tranny... that could be a real problem too.... dang... did you get from original owner?

Was the predator motor around in 95-96? I was thinking it was a sportstar or skier (I have the predator in my '01 skier).

Either way, good luck with the rebuild!

[Thrall]

Holy schitt!:eek:
Looks like a 95-97 PS, but yeah, thought the Predator was later model.
No matter anyway, you're buying a hull and a tower that needs to be gutted, completely.
Not sure what MC's go for over there, but that boat is worth the used price of the tower only.........not even that really.
That boat in the US is a $13-14k boat ...........spotless with a LT-1, ND tower and tandem trailer to boot.
I wouldn't touch it unless they were paying you at least $5k to haul it away, seriously.
Good luck with the "project."

Oh, at least it has closed cooling, so no salt water damage! hahaha

[Worthing skier]

Hi all

It is a 96 age stamped hull .
The original owner disappeared about 6 years ago and left with some who knows nothing about boats ,hence why it has been not looked after .

Not sure about the options for the correct engine on this ,I have no reason to think it is not correct engine , hopefully some one can advise , hull id MBCUSAT9F96

The gearbox has been fully submerged in water however I have checked the oil and it looks good with no signs of water , same for the engine oil.

Will be a few weeks before I know if the deal has come off , well looking forward to this little project .


Will keep you all posted .

Kevin

[Worthing skier]

Another picture ,
I think the fuel tank has also been filled with water hence why the fuel has come out of the breather .

84413

[CC2MC]

Wow. Can't wait to see her brought back to life. Should be a very time consuming project, but worth it in the end. Just a thought, but check around the edges of the floor for soft spots since there was so much water in there. The foam may have separated from the floor and may still be holding water.

[mikeg205]

Hi all

It is a 96 age stamped hull .
The original owner disappeared about 6 years ago and left with some who knows nothing about boats ,hence why it has been not looked after .

Not sure about the options for the correct engine on this ,I have no reason to think it is not correct engine , hopefully some one can advise , hull id MBCUSAT9F96

The gearbox has been fully submerged in water however I have checked the oil and it looks good with no signs of water , same for the engine oil.

Will be a few weeks before I know if the deal has come off , well looking forward to this little project .


Will keep you all posted .

Kevin

water under trans fluid....motor might have survived...starter - toast...flywheel and damper plate toast....fuel pump probably toast.

The owner disappeared? - sounds like a great story....

96...okay - that's a repower...not cared for...

can't wait to see her running.

[ahhudgins]

....and you got a barefoot boom in the deal. The value of the boat just went up!:D

Good luck with the project.

[barefoot]

....and you got a barefoot boom in the deal. The value of the boat just went up!:D


That's what I was thinking! :rolleyes:

There is a thread on here from tealchevy about his salvaged rebuild. Will definitely be a thread you should read. Lots of good information.

[barefoot]

And here is the thread. (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=38192&highlight=flood)

[mikeg205]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZF-Hurth-Marine-Inboard-Transmission-ski-boat-mastercraft-ski-nautique-/200821174611?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item2ec1dff153&vxp=mtr

tranny...good price..

[thatsmrmastercraft]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZF-Hurth-Marine-Inboard-Transmission-ski-boat-mastercraft-ski-nautique-/200821174611?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item2ec1dff153&vxp=mtr

tranny...good price..

Nice find indeed.

[mikeg205]

Any progress??? anxiously waiting for pics... :)

[Worthing skier]

Hi ,

Not yet but maybe in the next week or so , just waiting to get a clear tittle on it .

Will post as so at it is bought .

rgds

[Sullivan]

Who in the world would do that to that boat? I will never understand some people.

[Sullivan]

What kind of trailer is that? The rear bar under the platform seems interesting.

[ntidsl]

My notes: nice socks, why is fuel coming out vent? water getting into tank? good buy though...I'd love a project like that yet I dont have the time right now in my life...but someday and thanks to this forum, I will be able to do it.

[Worthing skier]

What kind of trailer is that? The rear bar under the platform seems interesting.


This is a standard Uk Mastercraft trailer used in the UK,
The US spec trailers you have are illegal to be used over here on the road .
Too wide, no parking brake , lights are different and I thinks few other issues .

[Worthing skier]

Well the deal has finally been done .

Brought it home yesterday , had a couple of hours with some truck wash and the pressure washer just so I could see what was going on .
Tried to turn it over on the crank , but looks like its seized no surprise there .
So had the plugs out and left the bores soaking for a couple of days, lots of other thinks to get on with .
First of many questions I am sure , is does the heater exchanger on the drivers side normally bed itself in the floor ?.

Thanks


Kevin

[mcparadise]

Well the deal has finally been done .

Brought it home yesterday , had a couple of hours with some truck wash and the pressure washer just so I could see what was going on .
Tried to turn it over on the crank , but looks like its seized no surprise there .
So had the plugs out and left the bores soaking for a couple of days, lots of other thinks to get on with .
First of many questions I am sure , is does the heater exchanger on the drivers side normally bed itself in the floor ?.

Thanks


Kevin

The carpet sure cleaned up well!! Wow.

[petermegan]

Sorry can't help with the heat exchanger question, but I went back to the beginning of your thread to look at the first photos. Wow, I can't believe that the carpet actually cleaned up that well. It looks like a completely different boat. Doesn't look anywhere near as bad as first impressions. Good luck with the motor. Have fun.

[thatsmrmastercraft]

Well the deal has finally been done .

Brought it home yesterday , had a couple of hours with some truck wash and the pressure washer just so I could see what was going on .
Tried to turn it over on the crank , but looks like its seized no surprise there .
So had the plugs out and left the bores soaking for a couple of days, lots of other thinks to get on with .
First of many questions I am sure , is does the heater exchanger on the drivers side normally bed itself in the floor ?.

Thanks


Kevin

Congrats on bring a great boat home. Now the labor of love begins. :toast:

[Bouyhead]

Well the deal has finally been done .

Brought it home yesterday , had a couple of hours with some truck wash and the pressure washer just so I could see what was going on .
Tried to turn it over on the crank , but looks like its seized no surprise there .
So had the plugs out and left the bores soaking for a couple of days, lots of other thinks to get on with .
First of many questions I am sure , is does the heater exchanger on the drivers side normally bed itself in the floor ?.

Thanks


Kevin

That it what we call a closed cooling system here in the US. Can't say I've ever seen one like that. Normally the heat exchanger sits up front on the top of the motor. This is going to be a fun project/thread, Good Luck!

[gweaver]

On my 88 with closed loop, the heat exchanger is down low like that, but it doesn't touch the floor. Looking at your pictures, I actually think my floor doesn't extend that far under the engine. Regardless, it might be worth a look at the brackets and whatnot to see if something's come loose. It does look like it's sitting a bit low. I can't see MC designing it in such a way that the exchanger touches the carpet.
G

[Worthing skier]

So removed the alternator ,starter motor ,raw water pump ,main water pump and found all seized , again no surprises .

However as the starter motor was out I have put a pry bar on the ring gear to bell housing and the engine broke free , back on the crank and now turns over by hand , so 12 hrs of a good soaking in penetrating oil has done its job.

The alternator is a Lucas item and starter motor is not branded , do these items need to be marine type or can I use an automotive part .

Removed the heat exchanger and as advised it looks as if it has just slid down on its mounts , so no worries there .

Re the fuel system , I can only find 1 high pressure pump on the passenger side rear of the engine is the only pump it has , only looks like an sender unit in the tank .

Yes as could not believe how well the carpet came up , needs more work but I am sure it will not need to be replaced , this is a testament to the quality of the materials that MC use in building there boats .

So next step is to fit an new starter ,alternator and battery , drain the fuel system , change the oil ,turn the key and see what happens .

will keep you all posted

Kevin

[mikeg205]

alternator and starter must be marine. They are modified to prevent sparks igniting gas fumes. The requirements and tests are stringent so you don't wind up having a fire from accumulated fumes under dog house.

[wheelerd]

You're brave to tackle a job like this. Being across the pond I would guess that MasterCraft parts would be difficult to come by . . . or is there a good dealership network there?

[mark g]

You're brave to tackle a job like this. Being across the pond I would guess that MasterCraft parts would be difficult to come by . . . or is there a good dealership network there?

Parts readily available over here in the uk just pricey,
Kevin have a look on eBay type in mastercraft if you see the cover for sale look at his other items opens up a page with starters on, second hand and cheaper than new, not sure if you know or not, it's mick macafferty selling the items used to be at mastercraft many years ago, now midland marine, will probably have what you need maybe second hand,
good luck with the rebuild

[Snipe]

Mike you have no idea how right you are. Some people must have a money tree in their back yard. What a shame to let a boat like that go to waste. :mad::uglyhamme:uglyhamme

[mikeg205]

Mike you have no idea how right you are. Some people must have a money tree in their back yard. What a shame to let a boat like that go to waste. :mad::uglyhamme:uglyhamme

Yeah...found a late 70's stars and stripes...$1500... okay so I got interested...then after connecting with seller - boat left uncovered in field like boat in this thread for 6 years.

Oh well - it takes all types... ;) :(

[Kyle]

Yeah...found a late 70's stars and stripes...$1500... okay so I got interested...then after connecting with seller - boat left uncovered in field like boat in this thread for 6 years.

Oh well - it takes all types... ;) :(

Thanks for using the Hemihead font.

1 more MCOCD point for you Mike......and 2 more for the graphics on the van.....

[mikeg205]

Thanks for using the Hemihead font.

1 more MCOCD point for you Mike......and 2 more for the graphics on the van.....

lol....Yeah I've got it pretty bad....

[bcd]

Look into having the starter rebuilt. An automotive shop should be able to rebuild it and still keep your marine rating.

[51timber]

Hopefully you live north of the arctic circle! Your gonna need a long winter for that project!

[mikeg205]

Hopefully you live north of the arctic circle! Your gonna need a long winter for that project!

Nope - he's south of London. https://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&q=west+sussex&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=0x47df58434716977f:0xaea9abe6ecb97dc2,West+S ussex,+UK&gl=us&ei=gZbIUMnZIfGFyQGt8IF4&ved=0CJsBELYD

Can't wait to see the next set of restore picks... keep it goin' ... :)

[Kyle]

The surface rust looks bad but will clean up. The risers can be removed and separated to replace the gasket inbeteeen the bottom part and top part. If you take them to a machine shop then they can toumble them in a toumbler or a bead blaster. When you get them back they will look brand new.

I'm concerned about the ECM


How is the oil. Is there water in it. If so I bet the bearings and all parts inside have rust on them. Change the oil with the cheapest oil you can find.

Transmission obviously was submerged fully. I would change the fluid and see what happens. Don't be discouraged if you rebuild that too.


Pull the old spark plugs and take a look. Are they rusty inside. If so there is an old trick that I would suggest that removes carbon build up that I would do if they are real rusty...... Put all rusty plugs back in. Pour a couple of quarts of trans fluid down the intake and just let it sit a few days (do not crank while trans fluid is being poured or while the fluid is in the combustion chambers). Then remove the plugs and turn over the engine several times a couple days later. Put new plugs in and crank it up. And let it run. It will run real bad until all the trans fluid burns out. Yes smoke is going to come out exhaust.


Then change oil again after you run it 30 min to an hour. I would do the same for the tranny.

[Worthing skier]

Cold weather and parts supply slowing the process up a little ,

Starter and alternator are off at my local re manufacturing shop so waiting on the outcome on that ,waiting on a new ign switch ,rebuilt the raw water pump ,now removed a bit more trim ,fuel tank and cleaned out .
As advised I have bought some cheap motor oil to replace , the throttle body needs to come off as the throttle flap is seized shut and the whole assy is a real mess, also need to look at ECM ,all the sensors looms and plugs .

Really would like to get to the point it cranks over nicely so I can do a compression check .

A question ,
I have found under the fuel tank a horizontal mounted bracket on the l/h stringer with a micro switch attached (2 wires), not sure what this is for ,
Also a relay that is screwed to the floor just in front of the engine mount again not sure what this operates ,both items do not look original fitments, and looking around the fuel tank area I think that this boat has previously been run on gas,
So any ideas ?


Thanks

Kevin

[Worthing skier]

Hi

Thanks for the advice on this supplier in the Uk ,I did not know of him , trying to get these bits rebuilt first , but if not I will contact him.

Rgds

Kevin

[milkmania]

Cold weather and parts supply slowing the process up a little ,

Starter and alternator are off at my local re manufacturing shop so waiting on the outcome on that ,waiting on a new ign switch ,rebuilt the raw water pump ,now removed a bit more trim ,fuel tank and cleaned out .
As advised I have bought some cheap motor oil to replace , the throttle body needs to come off as the throttle flap is seized shut and the whole assy is a real mess, also need to look at ECM ,all the sensors looms and plugs .

Really would like to get to the point it cranks over nicely so I can do a compression check .

A question ,
I have found under the fuel tank a horizontal mounted bracket on the l/h stringer with a micro switch attached (2 wires), not sure what this is for ,
Also a relay that is screwed to the floor just in front of the engine mount again not sure what this operates ,both items do not look original fitments, and looking around the fuel tank area I think that this boat has previously been run on gas,
So any ideas ?


Thanks

Kevin

what lead you to think that it was on anything other than gas:confused:

and this is a pic of an 1988 Chevrolet Throttle Body from a truck (for reference)
http://www.truckforum.org/forums/attachments/chevy-truck-forum/1816d1231552634-chevy-350-throttle-body-question-img_0320.jpg

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=87544&stc=1&d=1355350790

[mikeg205]

what lead you to think that it was on anything other than gas:confused:

and this is a pic of an 1988 Chevrolet Throttle Body from a truck (for reference)
http://www.truckforum.org/forums/attachments/chevy-truck-forum/1816d1231552634-chevy-350-throttle-body-question-img_0320.jpg

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=87544&stc=1&d=1355350790

In europe boats run on LPG....probably why it got neglected... probably was unable to get it re-registered or something and did not want to pay for conversion...IMO

[milkmania]

In europe boats run on LPG....probably why it got neglected... probably was unable to get it re-registered or something and did not want to pay for conversion...IMO


either that, or it was under-powered running on LPG
I knew they ran on LPG, but didn't realize it was mandatory:(

[Kyle]

Oh lord that throttle body looks bad.


Remove the entire throttle body from the intake and look into the intake. If it is real rusy in there then valves are probably going to need some work. The intake side will not burn off the rust like the exhaust side will.

I am scared to see what the rotating assembly and the cam look like.



I would almost say just yank the engine and drop a set of rings and bearings in it.

The parts that scare me would be the oil pump, valves, timing chain.

I am sure the crank could be resurfaced and the cam can be cleaned up. Rods and pistons should be ok.


I just would hate to waste time screwing with that engine trying to piece mill it to get it running and then find out that it needs to come out anyway.


You should be able to yank that engine in less than 3 hours.


Then you can take your time and do it right.


How were the plugs that were in there? If rusty then I would yank her

[mikeg205]

Hey worthing - do you have an engine buddy - maybe you can get Kyle to come out.. checked the weather....much warmer in West Sussex than the Twin Cities in Mn.... :D :D :D

[Worthing skier]

what lead you to think that it was on anything other than gas:confused:

and this is a pic of an 1988 Chevrolet Throttle Body from a truck (for reference)
http://www.truckforum.org/forums/attachments/chevy-truck-forum/1816d1231552634-chevy-350-throttle-body-question-img_0320.jpg

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=87544&stc=1&d=1355350790

Ah , In the UK we call Liquid Propane Gas (LPG) "gas" ,
and what we call Petrol you call "gas" .

Hence why this has got confused in the translation

[Worthing skier]

Oh lord that throttle body looks bad.


Remove the entire throttle body from the intake and look into the intake. If it is real rusy in there then valves are probably going to need some work. The intake side will not burn off the rust like the exhaust side will.

I am scared to see what the rotating assembly and the cam look like.



I would almost say just yank the engine and drop a set of rings and bearings in it.

The parts that scare me would be the oil pump, valves, timing chain.

I am sure the crank could be resurfaced and the cam can be cleaned up. Rods and pistons should be ok.


I just would hate to waste time screwing with that engine trying to piece mill it to get it running and then find out that it needs to come out anyway.


You should be able to yank that engine in less than 3 hours.


Then you can take your time and do it right.


How were the plugs that were in there? If rusty then I would yank her

Hi ,

the plugs came out without any problems , no internal rust on the threads or centre electrode , only on the outer part of the plugs which is to be expected .
Should get the starter back soon so I can crank it over to get a better Idea on it .

[milkmania]

Ah , In the UK we call Liquid Propane Gas (LPG) "gas" ,
and what we call Petrol you call "gas" .

Hence why this has got confused in the translation

it's all good.... http://deephousepage.com/smilies/beerchug.gif

Drive it like you stole it:steering::eek3:

[milkmania]

Hi ,

the plugs came out without any problems , no internal rust on the threads or centre electrode , only on the outer part of the plugs which is to be expected .
Should get the starter back soon so I can crank it over to get a better Idea on it .

that's a good sign..... the moisture inside the cylinders would rust the electrode even if the cylinder wasn't full of water:twocents:

[mikeg205]

now this could be very exciting... can't wait for the cranking to begin... so did the boat run on petrol? ;)

[Kyle]

Hi ,

the plugs came out without any problems , no internal rust on the threads or centre electrode , only on the outer part of the plugs which is to be expected .
Should get the starter back soon so I can crank it over to get a better Idea on it .

That is great news. I was thinking that the cylinder walls were rusted along with the rings and valves.



Here is what I would do


Take the Throttle Body off and pour about 1-2 quarts of transmission fluid down the intake and let it sit there for a few days. Then pull the plugs and crank her over and drain all of that nasty out. This is an old trick to get rid of carbon buildup. I dont think that you would want a piece of carbon or rust chunk from somewere bouncing around in the combustion chamber while it was running. That may cause problems. Flushing out the intake and top end with tranny fluid wont hurt a thing.


I found this trick out when I was a tech at a Caddy dealer. I took this car on a road test and was in a hurry. Friday at 5 and trying to finish up. Well I gased the rods out of the car and drove it like I was on a drag strip. Anyway a piece of carbon broke loose and got stuck somewhere in the combustion chamber. Told the shop manager that it just started making noise. I was 19 and he knew better. Told me how to fix it and it worked great. I was also told to be careful driving customers old peoples cars as they do not ever dust the cobwebs out of them and when you gas the rods this kind of thing can happen. Never got in trouble, just had to do some extra work for free.


In your case I would just do it for the reason that you do not know what the tops of the intake valves will look like without the intake removed. I would just do it as a precaution.



How does the oil look?

[wheelerd]

Ah , In the UK we call Liquid Propane Gas (LPG) "gas" ,
and what we call Petrol you call "gas" .

Hence why this has got confused in the translation

Where is the LPG tank located? Same place as the petrol (aka. "gas") tank on North American boats? I'm assuming it has to be a hard metal tank, not plastic like ours.

[Worthing skier]

Update ,

Well changed engine oil and found a bit of water in the sump .

Starter motor overhauled and refitted , where the starter butts up to the bell housing there is a gap but as the fixing bolts go up and there is no play in the bolt holes I cannot see how to close this gap , also does it really matter?.

Anyway fitted the new ignition switch and cranked it over , however when it cranked it spat loads of very rusty water from the plug holes ,I am surprised that if this water has been sat in the cylinders for such a long time it has not completely seized up ,I think this water has come from the riser/exhaust manifold area and by moving the boat around reticently has allowed it run into the bores .
I have also drained the block and found a very good antifreeze content .

Next step is a compression check to decide if I need to pull the motor to bits or not .

Pulled all the remaining bits of trim off as well , bit stuck on the main side trim on the drivers side around the gear lever area are the some hidden fixings holding it on ? .

Thanks

Kevin

[mikeg205]

Too bad on the water... :( ... but not a surprise..right?

[Kyle]

Unless your risers are ruined it would be real hard for water to get through the exhaust into the cylinders.

The boat flooded on a trailer in a field. There is no way for the water to flood up the riser and enter from the exhaust valves.


I would bet water entered through the throttle body filling the intake.

When at rest the intake valves could be opened or closed fully or slightly depending on where the engine stopped and which cam lobe was open or shutting.


I'm very concerned about the valves and intake. I can only imagine that they are real rusty.

I also am concerned on the cylinder walls. If water was in there a few days it would not bother me. This boat sat there for a LONG time.

Personally I would pull it and rebuild it no matter the results of the compression test. You will know its good then. The last thing you want to do is totally destroy it. Just ask around. I ruined a block and threw a rod through the side of it trashing the entire rotating assembly, breaking the cam in 5 places, totally ruined my distributor, and bent 5 valves.

Worst case you punch it .030 over but you may be able to get away with honing the block and resurfacing the crank.


It's worth spending some "unnecessary" money today than spending 4-6k on a new engine or whatever you would spend trying to buy used and hoping it will work.

[Worthing skier]

Unless your risers are ruined it would be real hard for water to get through the exhaust into the cylinders.

The boat flooded on a trailer in a field. There is no way for the water to flood up the riser and enter from the exhaust valves.


I would bet water entered through the throttle body filling the intake.

When at rest the intake valves could be opened or closed fully or slightly depending on where the engine stopped and which cam lobe was open or shutting.


I'm very concerned about the valves and intake. I can only imagine that they are real rusty.

I also am concerned on the cylinder walls. If water was in there a few days it would not bother me. This boat sat there for a LONG time.

Personally I would pull it and rebuild it no matter the results of the compression test. You will know its good then. The last thing you want to do is totally destroy it. Just ask around. I ruined a block and threw a rod through the side of it trashing the entire rotating assembly, breaking the cam in 5 places, totally ruined my distributor, and bent 5 valves.

Worst case you punch it .030 over but you may be able to get away with honing the block and resurfacing the crank.


It's worth spending some "unnecessary" money today than spending 4-6k on a new engine or whatever you would spend trying to buy used and hoping it will work.


Hello Kyle

Did the compression check , first 2 were 40 and 60psi ,so no point in going any further down that route, removed the throttle body only to find loads of rust , so will pull the engine to bits .
Thanks for the advise Kyle , helped make my decision on the correct way to repair .

Pictures coming later.

Kevin

[Michigan Tim]

95 or is that a 96..... a little wd40 on that alternator should take care of it...:D

Good luck...can't wait to see the on going pics...the ski pylon show the waterline....

Can't imagine someone having something that cost that much and not give a flyin'....you know what.

ooo...just realized - waterline over tranny... that could be a real problem too.... dang... did you get from original owner?

Mike you have no idea how right you are. Some people must have a money tree in their back yard. What a shame to let a boat like that go to waste. :mad::uglyhamme:uglyhamme

OK, if this is a 1996 that as been sitting trashed for 6 years, that could still mean that the original owner used it for 10 years and got many, many hours of enjoyment out of it. What did one of these cost in 1996: $25,000? If so, then $25,000 / 10 years = $2,500 per year of use, even if he trashed it at the end. On the other hand, this site is full of posts of guys who bought 100k plus 2012 models now turning around and buying 2013s. Even if they get a screaming deal on a 13, as I have read some attest, still seems like with taxes, registration, depreciation, etc, they would need to be taking at least a $15,000 + hit just for 1 summer of use! (tax on 2012 purchase, hit on trade in value and tax on 2013 purchase).Not condoning someone trashing a 96, just wondering out loud why there is never the same outcry for the amount of $'s wasted on the other end of the spectrum?
Kudos to the OP who would have the ambition, talent and desire to take on this type of project. Also props to all of those chipping in with such useful tips for this project. Some very mechanically skilled folks on this site. About all I'm good for is throwing my opinion around from the cheap seats :popcorn:

[wheelerd]

About all I'm good for is throwing my opinion around from the cheap seats :popcorn:

Hey, this site wouldn't be as interesting if there weren't people with opinions.8p

Once it comes to money and toys, well that's one deep rabbit hole!

[Worthing skier]

Bad weather and Christmas shopping again has stopped play ,
Got the exhaust manifolds off , took the complete engine loom out , I would like to go through this and check all the plugs connectors etc .
Distributor not looking to good bit worse ,also a better image of a very poor throttle body ,freed off the throttle flap but needs a very good clean up , check injectors and , TPS and ISC operation .
Just need an hour or so to pull the inlet manifold and heads .

[Worthing skier]

Finally got the heads removed , wow what a mess , half of the cylinders have mud in them .
Heads look ok at a quick look , but need to clean them , crank and flat check.
Next step is to remove the gearbox and then pull out the block .

[Worthing skier]

Another question ,
are the automotive engine gasket sets ok to use for this marrine application .

thanks

Kevin

[nkorep2]

I thought my motor looked rough....I bet it will clean up well with machine work and such, assuming there arent cracks. From what I have read and been told my everyone, you need marine gaskets for intake, and heads, everything else can be automotive. I guess the marines are made with stainless or something that would corrode. IM really excited to see if this motor can be rebuilt. Keep up the work.

[wheelerd]

I thought my motor looked rough....I bet it will clean up well with machine work and such, assuming there arent cracks. From what I have read and been told my everyone, you need marine gaskets for intake, and heads, everything else can be automotive. I guess the marines are made with stainless or something that would corrode. IM really excited to see if this motor can be rebuilt. Keep up the work.


It's not that standard gaskets won't work, it's just that they may not work AS LONG! See http://marineengineparts.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page567.html

Automotive engines operate in a controlled water environment, with coolant that has rust inhibitors. With open cooling on a boat, you don't really know what kind of water is circulating through the engine, even if its non-salt water.

[Voodoo]

OK, if this is a 1996 that as been sitting trashed for 6 years, that could still mean that the original owner used it for 10 years and got many, many hours of enjoyment out of it. What did one of these cost in 1996: $25,000? If so, then $25,000 / 10 years = $2,500 per year of use, even if he trashed it at the end. On the other hand, this site is full of posts of guys who bought 100k plus 2012 models now turning around and buying 2013s. Even if they get a screaming deal on a 13, as I have read some attest, still seems like with taxes, registration, depreciation, etc, they would need to be taking at least a $15,000 + hit just for 1 summer of use! (tax on 2012 purchase, hit on trade in value and tax on 2013 purchase).Not condoning someone trashing a 96, just wondering out loud why there is never the same outcry for the amount of $'s wasted on the other end of the spectrum?
Kudos to the OP who would have the ambition, talent and desire to take on this type of project. Also props to all of those chipping in with such useful tips for this project. Some very mechanically skilled folks on this site. About all I'm good for is throwing my opinion around from the cheap seats :popcorn:

Well said Michigan Tim. The care and feeding of many of the boats posted here is incredible. As well as the demonstrated skill and knowledge. My MC is nothing but a work truck -- mechanically maintained and little more. The boat is there to serve me and provide a platform for slalom and wakeboard -- we launch, ski three sets apiece and get out. I am too damned busy to dote over her. Her innards are well cared for, however. There is no radio and the backseat is in a kid's bedroom. The boat has been from KW to the UP, 1000 hrs of salt and 300 fresh. The upholstery is shot. Owned her for 14 years, been through the course countless times, trained dozens of kids to ski and wakeboard -- all at a cost of 7K, gas and maintenance. But, as they say, to each his own -- I still enjoy viewing the nice boats. For me, she is in the same category as my tile saw.

voodoo

[Worthing skier]

Hi all

Trying to get some parts on order ,
I have found an automotive distriubtor on ebay , looks the same as the old unit ,
can anyone advise on this , if will be a suitable fit etc.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190685048932?item=190685048932&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

thanks

Kevin

[Worthing skier]

Also forget to mention , is there any difference between l/h and r/h rotation engines when buying a distributor .

thanks

[CantRepeat]

OK, if this is a 1996 that as been sitting trashed for 6 years, that could still mean that the original owner used it for 10 years and got many, many hours of enjoyment out of it. What did one of these cost in 1996: $25,000? If so, then $25,000 / 10 years = $2,500 per year of use, even if he trashed it at the end. On the other hand, this site is full of posts of guys who bought 100k plus 2012 models now turning around and buying 2013s. Even if they get a screaming deal on a 13, as I have read some attest, still seems like with taxes, registration, depreciation, etc, they would need to be taking at least a $15,000 + hit just for 1 summer of use! (tax on 2012 purchase, hit on trade in value and tax on 2013 purchase).Not condoning someone trashing a 96, just wondering out loud why there is never the same outcry for the amount of $'s wasted on the other end of the spectrum?
Kudos to the OP who would have the ambition, talent and desire to take on this type of project. Also props to all of those chipping in with such useful tips for this project. Some very mechanically skilled folks on this site. About all I'm good for is throwing my opinion around from the cheap seats :popcorn:

The big difference is if this boat would have been covered it would be a 15k or 16k boat. How much trouble is it to put a cover on a boat? No trouble at all to most people here so that's what makes this kind of thing so ugly and why people cringe when they see this kind of thing. Who cringes at 2012 that's in great shape? No man.

[Ski-me]

Man, how did I miss this one?!? You've got one heck of a project there! I hope you can get it going again soon. I must of missed it but how much did you get the boat for? Just amazing someone would just leave it in the fields for years without looking at it.....:(

Good luck with the re-build. Looks fun and will be very satisfying when you get it running!

[Kyle]

Also forget to mention , is there any difference between l/h and r/h rotation engines when buying a distributor .

thanks

Yes there is a difference in distributors and cams with the different rotations.


The cam gear will be one or the other on the distributor and the cam itself is cut to a specific rotation.

[mark g]

Kevin
Have you tried rodley motors, I know not near you there up in Bradford but might be able to help out
01274688968
Major stockist of American parts, google rodley motors, not much to look at on the site, they have been going years and know there stuff.

Good luck

[mikeg205]

Hey, this site wouldn't be as interesting if there weren't people with opinions.8p

Once it comes to money and toys, well that's one deep rabbit hole!

^^+1 :D:D

[mikeg205]

Well said Michigan Tim. The care and feeding of many of the boats posted here is incredible. As well as the demonstrated skill and knowledge. My MC is nothing but a work truck -- mechanically maintained and little more. The boat is there to serve me and provide a platform for slalom and wakeboard -- we launch, ski three sets apiece and get out. I am too damned busy to dote over her. Her innards are well cared for, however. There is no radio and the backseat is in a kid's bedroom. The boat has been from KW to the UP, 1000 hrs of salt and 300 fresh. The upholstery is shot. Owned her for 14 years, been through the course countless times, trained dozens of kids to ski and wakeboard -- all at a cost of 7K, gas and maintenance. But, as they say, to each his own -- I still enjoy viewing the nice boats. For me, she is in the same category as my tile saw.

voodoo

Mechanically sound and aesthetically poor is still a cared for boat..IMO - I tend to leave my rear seat at home as well... Feel lucky you don't have the MCOCD..:D :D

FWIW - you would keep your tile saw in good mechanical condition right and safe? Get's the job done and everyone goes home happy :)

[mikeg205]

The big difference is if this boat would have been covered it would be a 15k or 16k boat. How much trouble is it to put a cover on a boat? No trouble at all to most people here so that's what makes this kind of thing so ugly and why people cringe when they see this kind of thing. Who cringes at 2012 that's in great shape? No man.


^^^+1

[Worthing skier]

Yes there is a difference in distributors and cams with the different rotations.


The cam gear will be one or the other on the distributor and the cam itself is cut to a specific rotation.

Ok ,I did not think of that ,
so if I buy a new distributor as listed on ebay ,
I should then be able to just swap the drive gear from the old to new unit ?

Thanks

Kevin

[Worthing skier]

Hi there

Thanks for the tip ,
I did try them for the gasket set but were a bit on the heavy side of pricing,
I will see if I can use the 1 I found on ebay and swap the drive gears .

kind rgds

Kevin

[Kyle]

Ok ,I did not think of that ,
so if I buy a new distributor as listed on ebay ,
I should then be able to just swap the drive gear from the old to new unit ?

Thanks

Kevin

Hold on now, there is more to this. The cam drive gear in the two pictures has the same rotation. The drive gear is not zip zip zip easy to swap out. The little pressed in pin is the easy part in removing or installing the cam gear. The drive gear is pressed on to the distributor shaft, the brand of distributor will more than likely have a diameter specific cam gear (they are not generic shaft size diameter LH and RH gears), and the legnth of the shafts can be different.


After comparing the 2 distributors they appear to be the same. Same gear rotation, same size gear, and same legnth.

That's a good price on the eBay buy it now.

Contact seller for shipping

[Worthing skier]

Hold on now, there is more to this. The cam drive gear in the two pictures has the same rotation. The drive gear is not zip zip zip easy to swap out. The little pressed in pin is the easy part in removing or installing the cam gear. The drive gear is pressed on to the distributor shaft, the brand of distributor will more than likely have a diameter specific cam gear (they are not generic shaft size diameter LH and RH gears), and the legnth of the shafts can be different.


After comparing the 2 distributors they appear to be the same. Same gear rotation, same size gear, and same legnth.

That's a good price on the eBay buy it now.

Contact seller for shipping


Thanks Kyle again ,

Just waiting on some shipping costs , but with the holidays now here it may slow things up a bit .

[lazyade]

Hey Worthing, me and a mate are in the middle of restoring a 2005 XStar, we have the GM 5.7 engine, but very similar to yours. When we stripped our downs it looked not too dissimilar to yours inside. We purchased a new engine from Michigan Motorz in the US, cost $2,300 or so. We also purchased an electrical pack, with new distributor, coil and HT leads. Shipping and taxes was about £800 on top. Way cheaper than from the UK, plus we now have a brand new long block with zero hours.

[Worthing skier]

Well a bit of an update ,
heads now stripped down , all 8 inlet valves badly pitted so will need a set of inlet valves .
Block is also out , so next bit is to see whats been going on in side .

Kevin

[Worthing skier]

Hi all

Next bit I am trying to sort is either a rebuild on the TBI or replace completely ,I have found this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281048468686

Is this okay for my application , or can anyone advise on where to get any rebuild parts for it .

thanks

Kevin

[Worthing skier]

Hello

I am still trying to find information on the TBI and injectors , does anyone know the part number for the injectors and also a supplier for a TBI gasket set and fuel pressure regulator .

Many thanks

Kevin

[mikeg205]

Hi all

Next bit I am trying to sort is either a rebuild on the TBI or replace completely ,I have found this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281048468686

Is this okay for my application , or can anyone advise on where to get any rebuild parts for it .

thanks

Kevin

Looks identical to mine..

[mikeg205]

Hello

I am still trying to find information on the TBI and injectors , does anyone know the part number for the injectors and also a supplier for a TBI gasket set and fuel pressure regulator .

Many thanks

Kevin

Try summitracing.com they may be able to help.

[mikeg205]

Hello

I am still trying to find information on the TBI and injectors , does anyone know the part number for the injectors and also a supplier for a TBI gasket set and fuel pressure regulator .

Many thanks

Kevin

Try summitracing.com they may be able to help or maybe www.napaonline.com.

[Rossterman]

Since you have it apart, have you thought about upgrading to vortec heads and manifold? 25~35 more HP and everything bolts right to the shortblock. You will need the vortec manifold but looks like you are going to have to buy a replacement anyway. You can find a good set of used heads on ebay for ~$250 and pickup a stock manifold w/ tbi pretty cheap too! These came on 1,000s of chevy trucks over the years and can be identified by the vertical manifold bolting and only 8 bolts. Later predators were rated at 310hp. I suspect the cam and internals are the same as yours.

[Worthing skier]

Hi Rossterman

No had not considered this ,good idea,
however I am in the UK so very limited here on the supply of these parts ,and what there is expensive .
My goal with this is restore is to get the whole package back to a good reliable condition but I am on a limited budget .
I am now just looking to rebuild my current TBI , but I am stuck on the injectors .

[Worthing skier]

Hi All

I am still trying to find a pair of injectors , lots for sale but I need to get correct ones ,
the number is stamped on the top face where the loom plugs to ,
but I cannot recover the number from my old injectors as they have badly corroded .
Any help on this would be great.


thanks

Kevin

[mikeg205]

I will post your pic to Indmar maybe someone there will chime in...

[Worthing skier]

Thank you

[bturner2]

Geez this project looks more like restoring a WWII Spitfire than a boat of this century. Amazing what salt water does to a boat.....

[Worthing skier]

Hi All

I am still trying to find out the correct injector casting number , you can see by looking down the throat of the TBI unit underneath the injecotr plugs, normally a 8 digit number , possilby starting 17_ _ _ _ _ _
Everyone is very quite on this topic , has it never been spoken about before ?
Also does the fuel pump setup with just 1 pump on the rear of the engine block run a lower pressure i.e 10-14 psi .

thanks

Kevin

[mikeg205]

one fuel pump that I know of - available online.. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dp60962%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1 %26Dn%3d0%26D%3dp60962%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0 - not available at the stores only online... and about half the price than a marine store.

injector - port side 17014288*ACR and 7184 GM
injector - starboard - 17014288*ACR and 6214 GM

[Worthing skier]

one fuel pump that I know of - available online.. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dp60962%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1 %26Dn%3d0%26D%3dp60962%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0 - not available at the stores only online... and about half the price than a marine store.

injector - port side 17014288*ACR and 7184 GM
injector - starboard - 17014288*ACR and 6214 GM


Hi MikeG

I am impressed , where did you get numbers from?
Also to to confirm these casting numbers have come from a 1995 -1996 model with a 350 GM , with a low fuel pressure setup with just the 1 pump on the rear of the block .

Many thanks again

Kevin

[mikeg205]

I took my flashlight an my super magnifier repair glasses and a cotton swap. I got them off my 95 engine. I have the TBI and those injectors...as well as the fuel pump listed. The markings were so light - if I was any older - I'd have to get my kid to read it... lol. was going to post a picture but the numbers got washed out every time.

still waiting for a response from Indmar.

[mikeg205]

nice to know this is cheap...http://www.repairconnector.com/products/GM-TBI-Throttle-Body-Injector-Repair-Connector.html

[mikeg205]

Correction it's 17104288... need better glasses... interchange with

http://www.shopinjectors.com/fuel-injectors/tb128.htm

[Worthing skier]

Just got back from the power coaters with 30 plus parts which were in need of some TLC.
All we bead blasted , etched and power coated.

[mikeg205]

nice progress!

[mcparadise]

Just got back from the power coaters with 30 plus parts which were in need of some TLC.
All we bead blasted , etched and power coated.

Did you/will you blast and/or powder coat inside the exhaust manifolds/risers? I think I can see some rust? Is this a before pic?

[Worthing skier]

Did you/will you blast and/or powder coat inside the exhaust manifolds/risers? I think I can see some rust? Is this a before pic?

The blaster process will really only clean the exterior areas, there is a certain amount of red colour left in the inside parts of the manifolds but this will not mater .
I have never known of coating the inside of a manifold specially the exhaust as it will be burnt off , also you do not want any coating on the inlet flaking off later on and going through the engine .
Yes these latest pictures are after the blasting and coating , have a look at the start of the thread for a before picture.

[mcparadise]

Thanks for the nice info!

[Jim@BAWS]

one fuel pump that I know of - available online.. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3dp60962%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1 %26Dn%3d0%26D%3dp60962%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0 - not available at the stores only online... and about half the price than a marine store.

injector - port side 17014288*ACR and 7184 GM
injector - starboard - 17014288*ACR and 6214 GM

I hace tried going that route as a dealer to save folks a few bucks. If you getg NAPA to
get it...CONGRATS. I have not been able to get that Carter pump as I was told NAPA
no longer stocks them or has a relationship with them

Jim@BAWS

[Worthing skier]

Hi All

I need to a order a pair of motor box rams , does anyone the correct length of these,
are they the same as a 1993 Prostar 190 ? .

many thanks

Kevin

[mikeg205]

did you mean the pressure shock hold up the box things?

[Worthing skier]

Hi Mike G

Yes I need to order a pair the gas rams to lift the engine cover box,
but my local dealer needs to know the length when fully extended,
I think they are 30".

Update on the rest of the project , not moving ahead much as the block is being bored and I am waiting on the pistons , bearings, inlet valves and gasket set , so I am trying to sort a few trim bits.

Kevin

[02ProstarSammyD]

I thought they were 20 ext, 12 compressed


http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=35684

[mikeg205]

I'll get the part number off my '95 and post tomorrow.

[CC2MC]

Here is the model that I have on my 94. SPD-GSNI-5300-60. 20" when extended and 12" compressed as Sammy said.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Spring-SPD-GSNI-5300-60-Strut-Prop-Rod-RV-Camper-/350301239199

[mikeg205]

Here is the model that I have on my 94. SPD-GSNI-5300-60. 20" when extended and 12" compressed as Sammy said.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Spring-SPD-GSNI-5300-60-Strut-Prop-Rod-RV-Camper-/350301239199

^^ - what I have...

Locally for you ... http://www.goldrv.co.uk/parts/products/1847/gas-springs-20/

[Worthing skier]

Thanks Mike G

Got them from my local MC dealer @ £8.00 each , bargain.

Checked the fuel pump , powered it up and appears to run up fine , so unless it does not give enough pressure it should be okay .

[Worthing skier]

Forgot to ask ,

Re the main fuel hoses to and from the fuel tank , do they normally run behind the tank or in front .

thanks

Kevin

[Cloaked]

Forgot to ask ,

Re the main fuel hoses to and from the fuel tank , do they normally run behind the tank or in front .

thanks

KevinBehind and under on my machine.

[Worthing skier]

Hello all

Hopefully an easy question this time ,
On the rear wiring loom for the fuel tank sender unit the is a plug/socket with 3 wires
black , pink and green ,
Black and pink are for the tank sender , I am not sure re the green wire , possibly a ground wire for the fuel filler neck but not sure .

Any advice on this.

thanks

Kevin

[Table Rocker]

Hello all

Hopefully an easy question this time ,
On the rear wiring loom for the fuel tank sender unit the is a plug/socket with 3 wires
black , pink and green ,
Black and pink are for the tank sender , I am not sure re the green wire , possibly a ground wire for the fuel filler neck but not sure .

Any advice on this.

thanks

Kevin
I have a green ground going to the back of the filler neck.

[Cloaked]

Hello all

Hopefully an easy question this time ,
On the rear wiring loom for the fuel tank sender unit the is a plug/socket with 3 wires
black , pink and green ,
Black and pink are for the tank sender , I am not sure re the green wire , possibly a ground wire for the fuel filler neck but not sure .

Any advice on this.

thanks

KevinThere is a legacy thread here somewhere on the ground wire. Something to this effect: MC said don't ground there, even though we did. Run a ground to another part of the boat and not on the filler neck.

My experience has been to leave the green disconnected. Done deal for me. Fuel sender works and no ground to a fuel filler neck.

Kinda' like the battery sitting within the same enclosed area as the fuel cell (on my 93). Something about that made me uneasy. I moved my battery to the front under the observer seat.

.

[Worthing skier]

Been trying to get rid of the tide line on the exterior fuel tank ,I cannot bring myself to put back looking the way it does.
Tried truck wash , petrol ,toilet bowl cleaner ,wheel acid all been left to soak and scrubbed but nothing seams to move it .

Any ideas on this

Wet sanded the transom 800 ,1200 then compounded, comes up okay but I can still some light scratches so will need a another pass.
Got rid of all the dirt in the hull , need to compound all the inner gell areas which have been stained by the steel staples used on the trim panels .

Still waiting on the engine block to come back from the shop.

[Snipe]

Try mixing up a "hefty" solution of Iron Out in a large enough container. Set the tank in and weight it down. Let soak for a couple of hours and rinse it off real good. It does need to soak though; just wetting it won't do much. That does wonders on rusty surfaces, it may just work on this.
Good luck. The project looks like it's moving right along, very impressive.

[saltybalty]

I wonder if oxyclean would clean the tank or maybe chlorine. Just guessing here

[Worthing skier]

2 new injector kits arrived today ,
I ended up buying these from Accuratediesel in Bitely,Michigan ,
Tim who works there was spot on all the way , plus a great price .

[Snipe]

Great!! Do these have to be Marine specific?? If I may ask, how much were they?

[Worthing skier]

Great!! Do these have to be Marine specific?? If I may ask, how much were they?


Hi

No not Marine specific, MikeG got me the oe injector part number which crossed to the Delphi part .
Kit includes complete seal/gasket set as well.
cost $110.00 for the pair shipped to the Uk

[mikeg205]

wow... that boat is looking great compared to the beginning post... nice job!!

[carisch]

Amazing what wet sanding and compounding will do!

[Worthing skier]

TBI assy now rebuilt with new the injectors.

[thatsmrmastercraft]

TBI assy now rebuilt with new the injectors.

That looks a little better.

[Snipe]

That looks alot better. Way to go......

[Worthing skier]

Hello All


I am still waiting on the block ,so I have been going through the dash wiring .
I have found behind the ignition switch panel 2 relays which do not look original,

It looks like 1 relay has been used to power the pink wire which feeds most of the gauges
, I have taken the relay out of the circuit and powered the gauges etc direct from the acc feed from the ignition switch, surely there is not enough current draw to warrant using a relay ?.

The other relay has been wired into the lanyard safety switch , again I cannot see the use for this relay , does any have a diagram for the lanyard circuit .


thanks

Kevin

[mikeg205]

wow outstanding job....

[Worthing skier]

Hi

Does anyone have a diagram showing where the safety kill switch breaks into .

thanks

Kevin

[mikeg205]

Hope this helps.

[Table Rocker]

Hi

Does anyone have a diagram showing where the safety kill switch breaks into .

thanks

Kevin
Okay, I went out to the boat and took my ('96) dash apart to see if I could find some answers for you.

On the back of the lanyard switch two purple wires come out and go into a small (pencil sized) loom. This loom goes up to the dash behind the speedometers. One of the purple wires goes down to the ignition switch and the other purple wire takes a 180 degree turn and goes into the large loom that heads for the engine. I looked at the ecm and found a purple wire there. No relays are behind my ignition switch.

It looks like the best way to bypass the lanyard switch would be to take the wire going into the bigger loom and connect it to the ignition switch.

If you have any questions, let me know soon while I still have it apart.

Good luck.

[FrankSchwab]

Re: Grounding the fuel filler.

This is the text that I snagged off here many moons ago:

No. 2005.APR05.SB-004
SUBJECT: Fuel Fill Ground Wires

In a joint effort, the U.S. Coast Guard, ABYC, NMMA and MasterCraft have recently re-examined the standards re-guarding the bonding of plastic fuel fills with metallic caps and retaining chains. This review is a result of MasterCraft’s discovery that, under certain conditions, an electrostatic discharge can cause a spark during fueling, which could ignite fuel vapors. This finding was recently confirmed in a study performed by IMANNA Laboratories, which showed that if the boat is not in the water, and a land-based fuel pump nozzle comes into contact with or in close proximity to the metallic components of the fuel fill assembly, the connection of the metallic retaining chain and cap of the plastic fuel fill assembly to the boat’s bonding system may create an electrostatic discharge and a spark. This condition does not exist when the boat is in the water, due to the equalization of the ground potentials between the fuel pump nozzle and the boat’s bonding system.

While the chances of ignition of fuel or vapors is unlikely, because of the potential for serious injury if fire or explosion were to occur, MasterCraft, the U.S. Coast Guard, ABYC and NMMA all agree that new and existing installations of this type of fuel fill assembly SHOULD NOT INCLUDE any attachment to the boat’s bonding system. For boats with this type of fuel fill assembly, which are connected via a ground wire to the boat’s bonding sys-tem, such connections should be removed as described herein. However, please note that this directive applies only to PLAS-TIC fuel fill assemblies with metallic caps and retaining chains; the U.S. Coast Guard and ABYC standards still require that any ALL-METALLIC fuel fills continue to be bonded.

Please be advised that all MasterCraft boats (all mod-els) manufactured from the 1999 model year through the present contain plastic fuel fill assemblies with metallic caps and retaining chains manufactured by Perko, Inc., as shown here, and therefore require the corrective action described in this Service Bulletin. However, beginning with Serial Num-ber MBCNLHG3A505, MasterCraft has altered its manufacturing process in accordance with the change in standards by the U.S. Coast Guard and ABYC to no longer attach a grounding wire from the plastic Perko fuel fill assembly to the boat’s bonding system.

The purpose of this Service Bulletin is to direct you to disconnect the ground wire of the fuel fill assembly on all affected MasterCraft boats in accordance with the procedures outlined below. Please note that other than the ground wire itself, removal of the metallic components of the fuel fill assembly is not necessary. This action should be performed at the first available opportunity on all affected boats in your inventory and/or which are brought in for service by customers regardless of the type of service work performed or whether specifically requested by the customer. For further information regarding this issue, you are encouraged to visitwww.uscgboating.com.

PROCEDURE:

Step 1: Locate the fuel fill assembly from inside the hull. Please note that some boat models have two fuel fills, and on those boats, this procedure must be performed on both fuel fills.

Step 2: Locate the green or green-and-yellow-striped ground wire, which is attached to the fuel fill assembly by a small bolt and nut. Use wire cutters to cut the ground wire as close as possible to the plastic fuel fill. Next, follow the ground wire away from the fuel fill and cut the ground wire again as far away as possible from the fuel fill. Remove and discard the piece of ground wire that was cut away to ensure that the consumer will not be able to reattach the ground wire (under the mistaken belief that it should be attached).

[Table Rocker]

Re: Grounding the fuel filler.



No. 2005.APR05.SB-004
SUBJECT: Fuel Fill Ground Wires

However, please note that this directive applies only to PLAS-TIC fuel fill assemblies with metallic caps and retaining chains; the U.S. Coast Guard and ABYC standards still require that any ALL-METALLIC fuel fills continue to be bonded.

Please be advised that all MasterCraft boats (all mod-els) manufactured from the 1999 model year through the present contain plastic fuel fill assemblies with metallic caps and retaining chains manufactured by Perko, Inc., as shown here, and therefore require the corrective action described in this Service Bulletin. However, beginning with Serial Num-ber MBCNLHG3A505, MasterCraft has altered its manufacturing process in accordance with the change in standards by the U.S. Coast Guard and ABYC to no longer attach a grounding wire from the plastic Perko fuel fill assembly to the boat’s bonding system.
So by those instructions, pre-'99 boats which have metal filler necks should keep the green grounding wire, correct?

[Worthing skier]

Okay, I went out to the boat and took my ('96) dash apart to see if I could find some answers for you.

On the back of the lanyard switch two purple wires come out and go into a small (pencil sized) loom. This loom goes up to the dash behind the speedometers. One of the purple wires goes down to the ignition switch and the other purple wire takes a 180 degree turn and goes into the large loom that heads for the engine. I looked at the ecm and found a purple wire there. No relays are behind my ignition switch.

It looks like the best way to bypass the lanyard switch would be to take the wire going into the bigger loom and connect it to the ignition switch.

If you have any questions, let me know soon while I still have it apart.

Good luck.


Hello


Many thanks for your help and the info ,
as I thought ,the relays are not a standard fitment ,
I think they were to do with boat previously being run on Gas (or LPG in the USA)
will remove them and re wire the kill switch circuit ..

rgds

Kevin

[Table Rocker]

Hello


Many thanks for your help and the info ,
as I thought ,the relays are not a standard fitment ,
I think they were to do with boat previously being run on Gas (or LPG in the USA)
will remove them and re wire the kill switch circuit ..

rgds

KevinGlad to help. Let me know if you need anything else. I still have the panel off.

[Worthing skier]

Had the ski pole polished at a local metal polisher ,
It has come out with a near chrome finish ,
not too sure on its finish as I prefer the mat alloy look, but it has remove lots of marks.

Has anyone ever bought the plastic insert on the top of the pole ?

thanks


Kevin

[Snipe]

Is it hard to get out??

[Worthing skier]

Is it hard to get out??

No , it is just a allen bolt in the top of the pole .
Have not tried to undo it yet , will do once the pole is fixed back in the boat .

[Worthing skier]

Well its been a few weeks of not a lot going on ,
hope to get the block back very soon ,
Does any of you kind people know the torque settings for the big ends, mains and head bolts .

Many thanks in advance

Kevin

[supturb89]

Any updates?

[nkorep2]

They should be near 90-120 ft/lbs

[Worthing skier]

Hi there


Thanks for the interest ,
still waiting on getting the block back , it is been done at "Mates Rates" so I have to be patient , should not be too much longer .
Anyway the sun has now come out and its a bit warmer here so I am skiing with the 1993 Prostar at the moment .

Will post as soon as the block is back

rgds

Kevin