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CC2MC
08-30-2012, 09:47 AM
In reviewing the thread on engine box insulation, I saw the the 1" foil foam was used by macattack for his engine box, with the MCX engine. Here is my problem. I have the LT-1 and it seems to catch somewhere. I have not looked too closely to see exactly what is catching, but I did notice that the water pump hose has a rubbed spot from opening and closing it and will need to be replaced.

Does anyone else have this same issue? If so, what did you do to resolve it? Also, should the 1" foil foam work with my engine/motor box combination? Currently there is no insulation, so anything would help.

Redstorm
08-30-2012, 11:26 AM
It looks as though it might be catching on the hose clamp as well. Try rotating it some.

chevy08bud
08-30-2012, 11:33 AM
I have the same engine and mine does the same thing. It was fine when my engine cover lifting shocks were weak and would not hold up the cover, but now that I have replaced them, it seems the shocks are pushing the cover towards the back of the boat. I have even tried to scoot the panel behind the engine cover up towards the rear of the engine to get some clearance, but it seems to work its way back. I just make sure to give it a good pull when I open and close the cover to try to avoid any rubbing. You could try weaker shocks, but don't know if it would keep the cover up or not.

onewheat
08-30-2012, 11:34 AM
Something is definitely rubbing on that hose and producing some good wear. I don't know what kind of time frame that damage was done in, but you need to correct that soon and I'd get a new hose too.

mikeg205
08-30-2012, 11:46 AM
It's a result of the floor panel behind the dog house shifting or the hinges weakening. Have you unscrewed the floor panel - hinges ok?

maristardd
08-30-2012, 11:51 AM
All of my hoses in the front of my LT1 appear to be scraping against the fiberglass of the cover on open and close. PO actually remounted engine cover slightly forward (I can see old screw holes from hinges in floor). Fiberglass is also scraping impeller housing. I'm going to see if I can pull housing and floor forward when I redo insulation (have it, haven't installed yet). I also got a thin flexible hard black plastic (??) sheet from tap plastic that I an going to place in that area inside the hood, both to keep insulation from tearing and to have a smooth surface rather than fiberglass in case it is still close.

mikeg205
08-30-2012, 11:57 AM
I first noticed this issue when I popped off the floor behind the dog house to do some maintenance on the steering cable and rudder assembly. When I flipped the floor up and then dropped it down it did not automatically fall back in place - had to adjust to get my dog house to open and close properly. Also had to redo hinge attachments to floor. The honeycomb floor isn't so great...when I redo the interior its gone...

Thrall
08-30-2012, 12:49 PM
It's a result of the floor panel behind the dog house shifting or the hinges weakening. Have you unscrewed the floor panel - hinges ok?

What he said. My 96 did the same thing. The holes in the rear floor panel where it screws down to the stringers start to wallow out and the shocks push the floor back.
Or the hinges are coming loose.

maristardd
08-30-2012, 01:16 PM
BTW -- My hood closes just _behind_ the two plastic guides that are on the floor behind the pylon (they are visible in front of cover when closed). I never thought to ask -- is this correct? Or is my cover supposed to close over those guides, so the guides are not visible/are inside doghouse when closed?

etduc
08-30-2012, 01:33 PM
BTW -- My hood closes just _behind_ the two plastic guides that are on the floor behind the pylon (they are visible in front of cover when closed). I never thought to ask -- is this correct? Or is my cover supposed to close over those guides, so the guides are not visible/are inside doghouse when closed?
Those guides should NOT be visible, when the dog house is closed.

maristardd
08-30-2012, 03:25 PM
Those guides should NOT be visible, when the dog house is closed.

That explains a lot with my problem - was this way from PO. I'll tackle the alignment with the insulation (and several hoses to replace!)

etduc
08-30-2012, 05:24 PM
More than likely, the doghouse and deck it is attached too, where removed at one time. When reinstalled, they didn't line things up. On my '94 205, the doghouse lands on the guides, then I pull on the doghouse cover to move it to final resting place. Tight fit.

Motor box insulation. Factory is 1/2" open cell foam. You can get it at, McMaster-carr.com. Don't get fully skinned. As the open side(facing the engine) does the sound dampening. The insulation in front of waterpump, will need to be 1/2" in most cases.

mcparadise
08-30-2012, 05:54 PM
BTW -- My hood closes just _behind_ the two plastic guides that are on the floor behind the pylon (they are visible in front of cover when closed). I never thought to ask -- is this correct? Or is my cover supposed to close over those guides, so the guides are not visible/are inside doghouse when closed?

This is also the case for my 98 SportStar 19. I knew it wasn't right, BUT there didn't seem to be any resultant problem (rubbing, etc.). I thought they might be to stop the box from moving forward...

I did marine epoxy/paint the lip in the bilge that supports the thin back plate that is hinged to the box, i.e., the screws that go through the plate and into the lip pulled out a large chunk of the lip on both sides. I'll bet this damage was due to PO lifting the box all the way back after disconnecting gas springs (had none when I got it). Probably not designed for that!

I hope after finishing my engine upgrade project and reasassembling everything that the doghouse will sit properly in front of the plastic guides...

CC2MC
08-31-2012, 09:05 AM
Those are all interesting thoughts. No I have not done anything with the panel, as I have only owned the boat for a week now. Perhaps the PO at one point, but not sure. I will check to see if I see any alignment issues tomorrow morning. I did see that honeycomb junk they used in the Engine box insulation thread and the solution to change it to fiberglass covered wood, which I liked, especially with the access hatch there. That way it would avoid ever having to take that panel off again and worry about any kind of alignment issues, at least in theory.

As far as the shocks, I doubt they have ever been changed. I know the one for the port side backrest is shot and I will probably put it on the winter time project list as well, although it is nowhere near the top of the list.

With the water pump hose, I am picking a new one up today and going to replace it. I have not done any research to see if there is anything special that I need to do to bleed the system or anything before I change it. It really looks like it is a pretty simple fix though. Can I just go get one from my local auto parts store and ask for an early to mid 90s vette part?

maristardd
08-31-2012, 10:14 AM
>water pump hose

Indmar modifies engine for marine use, the impeller (water pump) is totally different from car version. Your MasterCraft dealer or online (skidim.com) should have pre-formed exact fit hoses, I need to get these myself. West Marine would have generic hose you'd cut to fit. I don't know of there is any difference between auto and marine hoses for cooling.

CC2MC
09-03-2012, 11:05 PM
UPDATE: I was able to fix this problem for the most part by finding a couple of rivets that hold that metal strip at the bottom of the engine hatch and pop them back in. It seem that I had one that was rubbing my cooler hose and it was getting close to running through. Thankfully I repaired the hose and the rivet.

I did notice the plastic alignment pieces on the front and everything seemed to be lining up with that just fine. It still rubs the engine a little but I just have to pull it one direction when closing or opening the cover.