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View Full Version : anyone replaced the surge brake actuator?


wheelerd
08-22-2012, 11:08 AM
I'm replacing the UFP A60 surge brake actuator on my '01 trailer. Has anyone out there done this? What's mystifying is how to undo the flexible brake line hose from where it attaches to the reverse solenoid on the end of the actuator. It's easy enough to loosen the fittings, but to actually unthread the flexible hose ends up with it being all kinked up since the trailer end remains fixed. There is no swivel end on the hose or the actuator to relieve the rotation.

The only thing I can think of is pull the pin and attaching bolt for the folding tongue, pull it out a bit, and turn the whole unit as I undo (and then subsequently install) the new actuator.

Jason.H.
08-22-2012, 01:46 PM
I replaced mine a couple weeks ago and I just broke the fitting loose and unbolted the actuator and just spun the whole actuator assembly to keep the flexible line from kinking. Kinda low-tech but it worked lol.

Miss Rita
08-22-2012, 03:04 PM
There is no swivel end on the hose or the actuator to relieve the rotation.

There is a fitting where the flex line attaches to the rigid line, try disconnecting that.

wheelerd
08-22-2012, 03:08 PM
Jason.H.
Not sure I understand your process. . .
My actuator slides inside the swing-away tongue. It's held in place by pins and clips, not bolts. Even with those removed I can't rotate the actuator (and thereby loosen the fitting) since it's inside the tongue.

wheelerd
08-22-2012, 03:10 PM
There is a fitting where the flex line attaches to the rigid line, try disconnecting that.

That's back 3 or 4 inches inside the main frame of the trailer. I can see it but can't access it to undo it.

Jason.H.
08-22-2012, 04:22 PM
I'm sorry, I overlooked that you had a swing-away tonge, mine is not.

Rossterman
08-22-2012, 04:30 PM
I have 01 trailer and swing away tongue. Did what suggested above, spun the acutator assembly (before attaching the two pins) to connect it to the hose, tightened with a wrench and then slide the assembly into position and installed the pins. It's a PITA but worked. Are you refurbishing the calipers as well? I replaced all the components since a number of folks on here indicated once the master cylinder was fixed, they experienced calipers locking up due to the water causing rust in them. If that is why you are replacing the MC, you may want to disassemble and clean the calipers to prevent seizing up down the road.

mwg
08-22-2012, 05:10 PM
Same here... I spun the entire assy when re-installing it. One tip to installing the actuator assy is to use a couple of wooden dowels to hold everything together when installing it. Remove the pins form the actuator (inner slide member), install the dowels holding the rollers, actuator, and frame together. Cut the dowels to fit inside the outer member, this way when you install the pins you will drive out the dowels and everything stays together.

wheelerd
08-22-2012, 05:22 PM
I can't rotate the actuator outside the tongue and still have it attached to the hose -- not enough length in the line/hose. That's why I'm thinking I'll have to detach the swing-away, rotate the whole unit as I loosen the fitting, and then slide out the actuator. Assembly will be the reverse.

Wonder how they do it at the factory?

The reason I'm replacing is because of a leak in the master cylinder and I think the shock is also tired. It's simpler (and not much more expensive) to replace the whole unit rather than a couple of parts. Also needed to replace the break-away cable. That way I know the whole thing is fresh. Bought unit from Pacific Trailers for $150 plus shipping. Local trailer place wanted $299. Don't know what the MC dealer (90 miles away) would sell it for, or if they even carry them.

wheelerd
08-22-2012, 05:51 PM
Same here... I spun the entire assy when re-installing it. One tip to installing the actuator assy is to use a couple of wooden dowels to hold everything together when installing it. Remove the pins form the actuator (inner slide member), install the dowels holding the rollers, actuator, and frame together. Cut the dowels to fit inside the outer member, this way when you install the pins you will drive out the dowels and everything stays together.

Missed your post before my last post.:)
Good idea with the wooden dowels. Thanks.

mikeg205
08-22-2012, 09:54 PM
Same here... I spun the entire assy when re-installing it. One tip to installing the actuator assy is to use a couple of wooden dowels to hold everything together when installing it. Remove the pins form the actuator (inner slide member), install the dowels holding the rollers, actuator, and frame together. Cut the dowels to fit inside the outer member, this way when you install the pins you will drive out the dowels and everything stays together.

great idea on the dowels....rebuilt my actuator... and got really good at replacing the sliding member without losing the wheels... gonna make those dowels..thanks...love TT for this stuff...

wheelerd
08-23-2012, 12:34 PM
Low tech trumps high tech:D

georgea0731
08-23-2012, 09:46 PM
Just trying to imagine this. I haven't had to replace mine yet, but am considering it. I don't like the actuator on my 03 trailer. Thanks and best wishes,