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College Kid
08-15-2012, 02:14 AM
Starting my research on my maybe winter project. I purchased my 92 Prostar this spring and have started working through issues as they come up this season.

The boat was redone at some point not long ago and from afar and in pictures looks great. It's once you’re up close to start to notice a few problems/issues. These range from missing foam below the windshield, to an obvious patch and filler on the gunnel, to the seam between the hull and top deck not meeting up as they should.

I took this boat in as a trade and new it would be a bit of a project to get it into the condition I would be happy with, but it runs and gets me and my family on the lake, which is by far the most important part of owning a boat.

Now you know the back story I am going to use this thread to detail my progress and help me find answers to the questions I can't seem to search out. Thanks everyone in advance.

First issue I am going to tackle is that the boat was painted, which as I mentioned makes it look great from far away. Although up close you can tell it is a re paint, most due to very obvious rock chips on the bow. I was told it look like it was painted with automotive paint, probably right over the old Gel coat.

So what do you guys suggest is the best way to remove the paint without ruining the gel coat? Suggestions?

Mgboyd25
08-15-2012, 06:21 AM
Could we see some pictures of it?

gatorguy
08-15-2012, 09:25 AM
Tomcat had the same issue. He had it redone through an insurance claim but I guess it cost an arm and a leg. Looks like the guy sanded it down and started from scratch. Search for his thread it may give you an idea.

College Kid
08-15-2012, 11:05 AM
Here is a picture of it looking pretty good from far away. I'll see if I can't get how bad it really is to show up in some pictures this afternoon.

I was quoted over 15,000 for a pro to clean it up and give it a whole new gelcoat. I just can't justify spending that short of money. Not that I don't think it's worth that at a pro shop but I think much of that is just the labour hours it's going to take sanding it down after I get the paint out.

My thinking is that if I can get the paint off and fix as many of the dings and issues myself: 1) I will learn a new skill which is always nice, 2) I will have a boat that I can take some true pride in, knowing I did it myself.

I am thinking I will still need to have it sent out once I do all the leg work to be re gelcoated, although I won't know how bad it is until I get the paint off.

I was reading last night that probably acetone is the place to start and if that doesn't work move to airplane stripper?

mikeg205
08-15-2012, 12:46 PM
when you say deck and hull not meeting up as it should what do you mean...some pics would help. I had some issues with my deck and hull where the previous owner bumped docks etc. I removed the rub rail and filled in the problem areas with 3M 5200....drilled out old rivets and put in new rivets glued in with 3M 5200.

Windshield gasket - easy..just have someone help you...glass very expensive.

regarding the paint...check into wrapping it with vinyl. Lot less work and aggravation and you can personalize the boat. If you have patience you can wrap it yourself....not easy...but might a good project for the winter if you have a heated work area.

College Kid
08-15-2012, 03:56 PM
Here are some pictures of the major issues. I tried to get some of where the paint ran bit but couldn't get them to show up. in the picture that looks like just the side of the boat, that is showing over spray, it is not a water line mark.

Kyle
08-15-2012, 05:46 PM
I dont see anything wrong with the last pic in post #6



The top cap and the bottom hull should not be seamed together.

The boat is designed to be separated if need be.




The paint is really the only issue. Were is the foam missing?


Have you thought about just sanding the entire boat or possibly sanding where the two colors meet and just have a wrap put on......


A wrap will cost you tons and you can make it look pretty cool for a lot less cash.

thatsmrmastercraft
08-15-2012, 05:54 PM
I dont see anything wrong with the last pic in post #6



The top cap and the bottom hull should not be seamed together.

The boat is designed to be separated if need be.




The paint is really the only issue. Were is the foam missing?


Have you thought about just sanding the entire boat or possibly sanding where the two colors meet and just have a wrap put on......


A wrap will cost you tons and you can make it look pretty cool for a lot less cash.

Looks like some questionable quality body work, and some crack repairs needed. I'm with Kyle on this........get the repairs handled, smooth out the surfaces, and throw a wrap on it.

College Kid
08-15-2012, 06:21 PM
What's a wrap cost? I've thought about it but I am not sure if I can find a place local to do it. has anyone ever done a home job? I'd love to see some how to's on that?

mikeg205
08-15-2012, 07:39 PM
It all depends. It can cost as much as $6000 or as little as $3000 depending on what you are getting and if you want a customer design. Home jobs are tough. You can order solid vinyl color...check out this website...www.signsplusbanners.com they sell all sorts of stuff for wraps...they are on of my customers. The trick is to make sure the the surface is smooth and clean. The wrappers I know use vinegar and isopropyl alcohol to make sure the surface is free of any contaminants. There's all sorts of stuff you can do... a boat is easy to wrap compared to a car...less seams and objects to wrap around...i.e. side mirrors.

It takes practice to make it easy. Small set of tools needed...they are all available at places like signsplusbanners.com or fellers.com.

The guy who started www.fellers.com did his first wrap when he started his company...took him 3 weeks to wrap a pick up truck and lots of vinyl waste...

PM me with your city and I can get you hooked up with some wrappers so you can at least get an estimate...

College Kid
08-16-2012, 09:52 AM
I dont see anything wrong with the last pic in post #6



The top cap and the bottom hull should not be seamed together.

The boat is designed to be separated if need be.




The paint is really the only issue. Were is the foam missing?


Have you thought about just sanding the entire boat or possibly sanding where the two colors meet and just have a wrap put on......


A wrap will cost you tons and you can make it look pretty cool for a lot less cash.

Here is a couple of pictures to clear up the missing foam(sealer tape).

Kyle, you don't think that these screws should go through the hull as well as the top deck?

mikeg205
08-16-2012, 09:56 AM
Are those machine screws or are they pointed like wood screws. There should be a rubber gasket in there. The windshield frame is screwed to the deck and there should be a foam gasket under the frame and a rubber strip covering the hole. My 1995 gas machine screws with brass nuts holding the windshield frame down. Are you missing the pictured rubber strip all the way around?

Is that side of your windshield connected to deck where screw hole is open?

mikeg205
08-16-2012, 10:08 AM
Took some quick pictures of mine... the width of the rubber strip is 5/8" - you can check with www.jamestowndistributors.com to get a replacement roll. Very easy to install.

mikeg205
08-16-2012, 10:18 AM
Here this may work...right width - 8 ft $20 plus frieght....

kyfooter
08-16-2012, 01:32 PM
Are you certain after sanding, you'll need to re-gelcoat the entire boat? I can't imagine whoever decided to paint the boat actually sanded into the gelcoat first. Is there a chance you could just sand out the paint back down to the original gelcoat? Not saying there isn't a ton of labor involved, but it may not be as bad as you think.

Thrall
08-16-2012, 01:46 PM
Looks like some shoddy body work. Lots of sand scratches and that stress crack that wasn't repaired properly.
Big question or deciding factor is how well is the paint adhering?
How long has it been painted?
If the paint is not peeling or de-laminating, I think the easiest and most economical would be to re-paint it.
Sand/repair the problem areas, scuff the rest of the boat and re-shoot it.
Is the bottom painted, or can you get away with the orig gel in the "hard to reach" areas, like the bottom of the hull and just repaint the hull sides and deck?

If painted correctly, it will be very durable and water resistant, just not as durable as gel coat.
Plus painting is something you can do yourself if you have a heated garage and are reasonably skilled. You could repaint the whole boat for less then $2k + labor if you have the big tools already.

College Kid
08-16-2012, 02:23 PM
The screws are pointed like wood screws, yes, but that picture is taken at the stern above the gas tank showing the hull and top deck attaching, or not attaching.


The windsheild is only missing a chunk on the port side, the rest is filled with a foam type tape used for draft protection. I guess I will look at replacing all of it with a rubber style, that would look much better. Thanks for the pictures.

I agree it is pretty bad body work, not sure what I am gonig to find under all that paint hence why I am trying to figure out how to get it off with out doing damage to what ever is under.

I am really hoping not to have to re gel the boat but until I take the paint off I am not going to be sure what I am dealing with. It really looks like the only repairs that were done, were on the top deck not the hull. So I might get away with just removing what was done and re doing it with colour matched gel.

The boat is only painted on the top deck and the sides down to the gray strip.

I am going to do a little bit of wet sanding in a small out of the way area to see if I can figure out how thick the paint is as well as what condition the gel coat is under it?

Kyle
08-16-2012, 02:45 PM
Here is a couple of pictures to clear up the missing foam(sealer tape).

Kyle, you don't think that these screws should go through the hull as well as the top deck?

Ok are the circled screws in the center that could be holding on the rub rail cap that says Mastercraft on it?


The screws on your boat do NOT hold the top cap and the hull together. Your boat has rivets and you can see them in the pic just left and right of your circle. Those hold the cap on the hull.

The screws if not holding on the rail cover in the center on the back are probably added after to hold the rail on or something. I would not worry about it.

Kyle
08-16-2012, 03:03 PM
There is not way to sand the entire boat to get that "Maaco Paint Job" off of it, re-gel, or come back with a quality paint job for less then 5k. The amount of hours to just sand the entire boat will be extremely large. Then you end up having a 10K boat with 20k into it.

If you want to have something for your family that would look good the wrap is the way to go. Wrap it, use it, Sell it and some new owner will love it.

Unless you are emotionally attached to this boat be careful trying to fix the paint issue.


I know first hand how the project goes of trying to improve and make it better. Bought my boat 7 years ago. Over the last 7 years I have spent $16,000 in add ons and I have documentation to show for it... If you are wanting to be extremely upside down like I am then, by all means spend away.

Its sad that I have a 93' 190 that has so much in it. Its like I had to marry my boat because there is no way that I can take 10k for it now knowing that I have close to 25k-27k into it.

Holman J.B.F
08-17-2012, 02:16 AM
just repaint the boat and don,t use automotive paints.
get marine paints like Inter- awl grip -sikkens - etc etc...a 2 part Poly urethane paint wil work and have a mirror gloss finish.

do not paint below the waterline unless you trailer the boat every trip if you leave it in the water any paint will blister,unless it is a epoxy primer topped off with a bottom paint anti-fouling.

you can have a brandnew looking boat for under 250 dollar,...all depending on your painting skills.

College Kid
08-17-2012, 11:18 AM
I am expienced at painting houses but I think I would farm out the paint job if I was to go that route.

My real issue with going back to paint is the longevity of th paint job. The current one has a ton of rock chips from trailering the boat. It really takes away from the great paint job on the rest of the boat.

I have the same issue with the wraps as I suspect that I would need to paint or sand out all the little nicks before they could apply it, and also not sure how long it would last due to any new rock chips it would get.

The bottom of the boat is still old gelcoat and the paint only looks a few years old, maybe 4. I found some fine furnitiure stripper that contains no Methelyne Cloride, that I think I am giong to give a try for some of the over spray spots, and see if I can clean up the current paint job a bit for the rest of this season.

I am also going to see if I can figure out how thick the paint is. It would be great if it was only a coat or two. I am pretty sure by the look of the rock pits it should sand off fairly easily.

petermegan
08-17-2012, 08:07 PM
I wonder how a go with a really hot steam/pressure washer would go? I would be worried about the gel cracking with the heat but wonder whether anybody else has any experience in this area. I use one on my boat but only very delicately for that reason. Anybody ever hit their boat hard with one of these and caused gel damage?

College Kid
08-18-2012, 12:42 AM
Don't have time for much of a post right now but I wanted to put out a little teaser. Let you all know the story tomorrow when we get home from the lake.

College Kid
08-20-2012, 06:33 PM
Well if you hadn't guessed it from the picture above, I got a little excited about this project and with a little gentle prodding from my neighbor and his promise to lend a hand I decided to dig into this project early.

Thanks everyone for their advice and I still may look re painting or wrapping, but before I do I will work hard to restore it back to original. I don't plan put a ton of money into this but I also want something I can be proud of.

I started out using some acetone to clean up the over spray on the lower half of the gel coat. This was working so well it convinced me to try it on a small area (which got pretty big). The acetone was good but having refinished some furniture before I knew that stripper would make the process a lot better and mean not marking up the gel coat as badly. I did a search of the 4 big box stores nearby and found a product called "Soft Strip" by Circa 1850. It is a fine furniture stripper that is biodegradable. It also doesn't contain any methelyne chloride, N-methyl pyrrolidone or caustic which are all very harmful to fiberglass resin. The big reason for going with this product was that I could keep the hose close at hand to make sure I was rinsing thoroughly every couple minutes and not worry about killing off the lawn.

It worked like a charm!!!! First coat would take off the clear coat, a second to take the heavy pigment away, both of these working carefully with a putty knife. Then follow it up with a 3M scotch pad and lots of water. Then some compound, polish, and wax.

I honestly can't believe someone painted this boat???? Except for the one mark it is in perfect shape (for a 20 year old boat). You can even still see where the original MASTERCRAFT, and PROSTAR 190 decals used to be. Here are some before and after shots. They don't do it justice; hopefully I can get some with the sun out soon.

College Kid
08-20-2012, 06:35 PM
The first spot that grew

College Kid
08-20-2012, 06:37 PM
The one and only real scar, the rest is pretty much perfect.

College Kid
08-20-2012, 06:43 PM
And a couple of the gel coat all polished up.

petermegan
08-20-2012, 07:05 PM
Top job, you are progressing well. Have fun

College Kid
12-30-2012, 09:30 PM
Well It's almost the first of the new year and i realized that there are only about 120 days till the ice melts on the lakes up here.

A quick update. I didn't get much more than what you see above done over the summer. I just ran the boat and finished diagnosing all the mechanical issues.

Winter came early this year with almost 8 inches by the first of November, this compacted my house renovations and caused the boat to be put on the back burner in the corner of the garage.

On to the update: Started by sanding the bow with some 220 grit webbing paper, this was going well although I realized pretty quickly that it was going to take alot of muscle to sand the whole top side. I had made the decision that I was going to try not to use any chemicals to do the top.

This is due to the fact that I can't wash down the boat and clean all the stripper away as it's close to -20 outside, and i don't have a drain in the garage.

So it was off to the store to pick up a orbital sander. A couple hours later this is where I am at. I am pretty happy with the result and that I only found one small nick.

snork
12-30-2012, 10:37 PM
post some pics of the port side top deck around the end of the windshield when you have time, I'm a bit curious about the rough area shown in the first few pics

College Kid
12-31-2012, 12:09 AM
I will as soon as I make it around to that side.

Anyone have any thoughts on if I should pull the windshield and wet sand the whole top or just work around it?

CC2MC
12-31-2012, 12:26 AM
I will as soon as I make it around to that side.

Anyone have any thoughts on if I should pull the windshield and wet sand the whole top or just work around it?

I just worked around mine. No need to wetsand mine though. I just sanded 400 grit and got a good ole can of Krylon. The frame is aluminum and is pretty soft. Looks great now. It will look even better when I tint the glass. BTW, that is the same color combo on my boat. Did the PO change the interior to match the paint job or does it still match the gel coat?

College Kid
12-31-2012, 12:45 AM
No they re did the interior, no more magenta on the interior.

Kyle
12-31-2012, 01:51 AM
You are about to see why I recommended a wrap.

Starting with 220grit is very very course.

I sanded a black X9 and made it showroom quality. I had thousands of hours before that boat was 100% spotless perfect without swirl marks from the sand paper. We started at 800 grit. A small area required 600 but for the most part we did 95% of the boat with 800 grit. Then moved to sanding the entire boat again with 1000 grit, then again with 1200, followed by 1500. By hand.......the boat is a good friend of mine and we started in November and sanded 3-4 days a week (average 3) until May.


Once you get the 220 done you will need to re-sand with wet sanding method starting at 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, high speed compound ultra fine, express it 2 polisher high speed and then wax.

If you don't believe me then just spray black spray paint over the area sanded and then wipe off with acetone. I guarantee that you will see the sand marks after every grit change until you get to 1500 grit. Once you get 1500 you can spray the black on and acetone will get it all off leaving no sand marks. This is when you know the boat is perfectly smooth.

Doing it this way will make it look brand new. My concern is you may sand through to the next color. Meaning there is blue, grey, pink, white, under that top layer of white.

The stripper evaporates so there is no need to worry about it eating your gel. Wipe it on strip it and wipe it off. Washing it after rubbing it really doesn't require tons of water. I would be using chemicals to Strip the paint and then buff. Sanding will wear you out.

Find a stopping point for the sanding and start stripping. The larger the area you cover with 220 the more wet sanding you will be doing to remove the 220 grit marks.

I wet sanded by hand. If you have a pneumatic DA sander and lots of paper then wet sand away. Otherwise get ready for lots of elbow grease wet sanding.


Here is my point..........sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, sand, and more sand, followed by hours more like days of compounding, then polishing............may be worth a 3k wrap.

Wraps are thick so the swirl marks don't have to be perfect. Remove the windshield with someone to lend a hand. Remove a side glass, then center, then other side. Ship that sucker off for a wrap and call it a day.

I promise, if you want that boat "showroom" quality then you will have $500+ in supplies, sand paper, compound, cutter, polish, etc and seriously 1000's of hours.

I love the color scheme as I am partial to it myself. I just would put a price on my time.

Now if you don't care about swirl marks or dull gel because you are in a hurry for summer (you will you will see everywhere that you sanded once that boat is floating) then sand away. Maybe your MCOCD is not as bad as mine. Who knows.

Just trying to shoot straight with you. Sanding makes the project extremely drawn out.

College Kid
12-31-2012, 10:56 AM
Thanks Kyle,

I realize that this is going to be a HUGE job, I was already for the wet sanding from 400 through 1500 on the hull to clean up all the marks, and I figured that in doing the entire hull a little more on the bow isn't going to kill me. Don't take my comment above about muscle the wrong way, I just felt that removing the paint wasn't worth the 10-15 hours sanding when I knew I was going to have to re sand the entire thing many times over.

I am also not sure if this boat will ever get to "showroom" condition, as the PO has hacked the dash up, and I haven't come up with a good plan to replace it. As well as the trouble spot by the windshield and the gouge on the hull, there will be a need to send it to a shop if I plan on matching up the Gel Coat in those spots if I plan to have a showroom boat.

Due to my need to send it out at some point I figure that I do do any damage that I will have those spots fixed at the same time.

The idea with this boat is to have a fun with my young family, MCOCD suffers due to this as I know that as soon as I have it just right, my son will end up climbing over the gunnel with sand on his feet and I'll be back to the start!!!!!

My goal is to get rid of the brutal paint job, confirm that there is no structural damage around the windshield, and then decide on the where to go from there.

TxsRiverRat
12-31-2012, 11:43 AM
I wet sanded by hand. If you have a pneumatic DA sander and lots of paper then wet sand away. Otherwise get ready for lots of elbow grease wet sanding.

Speaking from my own personal experience with the fenders Kyle was helping me with, I can tell you he is 1000% correct - I had my fenders bondo'd, sanded, painted and clear coated at a friends body shop, and it was worth every penny I paid to not sand for 100s of hours.

Kyle
12-31-2012, 04:43 PM
.........

Kyle
12-31-2012, 04:45 PM
College


Since water and electricity don't mix try a pheumatic DA sander. It will speed your time up drastically from hand sanding it.

The blue is no longer made by mc so the gouge on the side will need to be hand mixed.

Is there a way to fix your gel by windshield. Pics please

And I would only remove the windshield if you have a very very very safe place to put it. It's not made any more. But I would remove for the project.


As far as MCOCD

Well you are right. Make it perfect just for another scratch. I understand completely. It's just how bad your disorder is I guess :)

How old is your son? Put him to work and make it a father-son project. Then his time sanding will give him appreciation before adding more scratches.


It will come around. Just keep after it. Looking better already

College Kid
12-31-2012, 05:10 PM
Should be around the that windshield section later today. I'll post up pics then.

Unfortunately my son is only 5 so he doesn't last long with the heavy lifting, that said, he is a champ for coming and check on me when I am in the -15C garage and offering to bring me beer.

He's also a big fan of sitting in the drivers seat and pretending to drive for me, while I do work on the boat.

College Kid
12-31-2012, 08:35 PM
Another couple hours into this job.

Found a few more spots that will need further attention: First picture you can see a mark in the middle of the bow that was filled with something blue, I think gel coat mix. Second picture is a fill mark just at the start of the windshield, it is filled with a brown filler not sure what this is. Third photo is further back on the starboard side at the very end of the windshield. Final photos are the issues on the port side.

What are your thoughts?

Just a quick note: I am very impressed with my progress so far, please try and keep your comments positive as i am way too far into this to turn back now!!!!:)

I do need some constructive critique to figure out what to do with these trouble areas, and what the PO used for filler?

Kyle
12-31-2012, 09:06 PM
College.

If you took my post as negative I apologize. I sure do not mean for them to come across as rude.


Here is my thought. Just my honest thought.

The boat probably had gel work for some real damage. Instead of using gel the PO had it painted due to saving cash.

The off color that you are seeing very well may be Bondo. There are different shades of bondo.


Just asking a question here, are you positive that you have not started sanding to the next color? I'm sure you have not due to the bow being one color and the sides being another. This makes me assume that it is bondo filler.


Here is an idea.

Pull the carpet back if needed on sides and look on the inside of the boat where those repairs are. What does it look like?


Auto paint makes me think bondo filler to prep for paint.


Where to go from here......

Decide now if you really want the tower or not as those holes can be repaired now if you don't want it.

Keep sanding and locate any other damage spots.

Really try to locate inside damage as well. If there is noticeable inside repair then I bet that there is no gel under the filler or whatever is on the outside.


More pics will help.


Don't panic stay calm and think thinks out.

mikeg205
12-31-2012, 09:30 PM
Hey college you're really putting in the time. Looking good. Is that stuff that looks like fill on both sides of near the same place where the windshield ends? I believe it's a polyester filler like Kyle mentions. If that filler is in the same place on both port and starboard I believe the boat had a different tower than it has now. (we'll leave that assertion at that..)

Here's a great link to read about epoxy, vinyl and polyester resins. The one pic shows a pit in the filler like you see in many Bondo applications. As long as you have gone this far and made very good progress you and restore the the finish of the boat.

If you are working this hard I would consider checking the filler. It is far softer than gel. If that is polyester (Bondo) filler it will flex differently than the gel and cause cracks after you reapply gel coat. Your're working hard now so you may want to check that.

mikeg205
12-31-2012, 09:41 PM
I am with you kyle...looks like some damage...that is definitely some type of filler as you indicate where pink is visible under white gel.

College everything look okay on the inside? Now is a good time to re-glass and re-enforce. I will revisit original pics as well

mikeg205
12-31-2012, 09:48 PM
Was looking at original picks again... could have been just defects in gel that PO was fixing if this is what glass looks like on the inside.

College Kid
01-01-2013, 12:18 AM
Thanks Guys,

Kyle did not at all take your post as negative I was having an "oh sh*t" moment when I was looking at the pictures and needed some reinforcement that I wasn't crazy for getting this far in.

mikeg, thanks for flipping the pics, that interior fiberglass pic is from the stern. I need to clean up some dust before I can get to the interior. But I know that there has been work done as I can see on the out side of the inside if that makes sense.

there are alot of bubble holes in the filler, which is why i could tell that work had been done under the paint. What are the thoughts on getting ride of the patch? grinder? and then re fiberglass and gel over that?

I think this might be over my head but I am in this far so I might just give it a go.

thatsmrmastercraft
01-01-2013, 12:57 AM
Is the brown filler bondo?

College Kid
01-01-2013, 01:19 AM
I think so, after some research it sure looks that way.

thatsmrmastercraft
01-01-2013, 01:33 AM
Had some on a repair on my boat when I got it. Took it out and replaced with gelcoat. Wasn't too tough other than dealing with matching the color.

Kyle
01-01-2013, 05:01 AM
College

Sometimes chit gets deep and you need to hike up your jeans and just walk through it......



This would be one of those times.

Keep sanding to find other patches before we freak out. The more sanding you do the more evidence you uncover. Just keep going as you are. Maybe we can learn more.


Seriously not a joke..... Sand more to reveal more of the sides and top cap.

Keep going, don't freak out, quit panicking, and sand towards the stern.

Bottom hull looks good. Top cap is damaged. Let's find out really how bad.


Hang in there college

It's all good.

mikeg205
01-01-2013, 11:46 AM
You're gonna get more and more encouragement. Plus your work will be chronicled here so keep taking pictures. Don't worry about flipping them I can always fix that. I would love to see the glass under the patch stern filler patch.

Now I know what the screws are - they are the screws on the rub rail cap - right?

I agree with Thatmastercraft - get rid of the filler and replace with gel. Here's a great video on matching gelcoat. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZxyrxIC2Ts you can get the color by playing with pigments before you add the oxidizer.

If there's any repair work please use real epoxy.

She's going to look great when your done!

Sierra Tango II
01-01-2013, 12:18 PM
Im enjoying reading your thread. I restored a Donzi GT 21 some time ago. When I mean restore, I mean that i stripped it, rolled it, replaced the transom, blueprinted the bottom and gel coated the entire boat, top and Bottom. The only paint i used a small stripe on the side and one on the top. I had so so so many hours in wet sanding it, and can honestly say that even after sanding for 8 hours straight, for many days at a time, with blisters on my hand, that I never regretted the work once. The only regret I had was when I sold it, and then watched somebody on another sight, paint the boat a custom color. I loved every minute I worked on that boat. Your doing it right and doing a great job. Have fun and keep up the good work

College Kid
01-01-2013, 09:23 PM
Another 4 hours into it:

Started by taking off all the tower hardware and rest of the hardware, then tarped up the interior to protect the carpet. Oh and I also removed all the seats and side upholstery..... then started with some 220 grit to remove the top layer, then moved up to 320 to smooth it out. I then cleaned up all the areas with acetone, to take these pics.

Had to take stop to spend some time at the sledding hill with my little guy, but am hoping to get back out there after he's in bed.

There were a few more trouble areas uncovered but all in all it's pretty good.

College Kid
01-01-2013, 09:25 PM
Forgot one of the outside spot

College Kid
01-01-2013, 09:28 PM
opps........ and one of the rear port corner......I could see stress marks through the paint in this area and expected to find issues.

mikeg205
01-01-2013, 09:36 PM
College let me know when you are ready for decals...I will send you some... nice work...kuddos on the sledding. My son is 20 and my daughter 18. I have great memories of sledding. Unfortunately the winter weather in the Chicago has sucked for the last 5-7 years... some good snow here and there but but otherwise too cold for warm weather sports and and not enough snow for winter activities...

Boat's going to look great....where in Canada are you?.. I probably just forgot.

carlbernhard
01-02-2013, 11:05 AM
College let me know when you are ready for decals...I will send you some... nice work...kuddos on the sledding. My son is 20 and my daughter 18. I have great memories of sledding. Unfortunately the winter weather in the Chicago has sucked for the last 5-7 years... some good snow here and there but but otherwise too cold for warm weather sports and and not enough snow for winter activities...

Boat's going to look great....where in Canada are you?.. I probably just forgot.
College, I have just finished repraying my boat. If you have sanded with 220 grit you can spray a good filler primer such as awlgrip and then flat. This is the single most important part of the spray job...prepping of the surface. Without a good prep, you will never get a durable and satisfactory finish.Before you spray filler primer, you need to make sure there are no fat residues on the surface, so a good wipe down with acetone is essential. Before you spray your filler primer every tiny imperfection must be filled and sanded flat with 220. Your surface should basically be perfect. The golden rule is to not use filler primer to cover up imperfections. If your surface is well prepped you will be able to get away with 3 coats of filler primer. Filler primer must then be flatted/wet sanded with 1200 water paper until a perfect finish is obtained. You can then start the painting process. I second every ones suggestions that painting is second to restoring gelcoat, but if you want to change colour scheme or have physical damage you have no choice other than a vinyl wrap
.

College Kid
01-02-2013, 11:33 AM
Thanks Mikeg, I already have you on my list to get the decals.

After all this work I am thinking I am going to be trying to stick with the current colour scheme and fixing the gel, as well as reinforcing all the areas I have come across with more fiberglass.

I did some reading last night and I feel that the gel coat repairs aren't out of reach for me. I am still not sure about fiberglass but I think I may even try and bite that off as well.

Does anyone have any experience using the Spectrum Colour product? I see they have the pre mixed white and might even have some of the flagship blue. I have also heard good things about the WestSystems product. Is it worth going for the pre mixed or should I just try mixing it up myself? Are there any other gelcoat products that I should look into?

I got another bit done last night and think I should be moving on to using some stripper in the hard to reach areas around the domes, and tight corners. Then after that I will move to cleaning up all the dust and start really digging into the trouble spots.

mikeg205
01-02-2013, 01:07 PM
Do you plan on applying your own Gelcoat? If yes, I would start practicing how you are going to apply it. The better it goes down the better it will be to finish/buff/wax. ++++on surface prep for adhesion - same for the glass repairs... use real epoxy not polyester or vinyl resin - costs more but worth it.

College Kid
01-02-2013, 03:17 PM
I am considering it. at lease for the small spots that aren't too deep. Looks similar to the process of dry wall mud and I am fairly experienced there.

mikeg205
01-02-2013, 03:21 PM
Great - looking forward to pics

TRBenj
01-02-2013, 03:51 PM
This is a big project- kudos to you for taking it on. Boat looks worlds better with the paint off! I cant believe people paint over gel... drives me nuts.

Like was said, anyplace that has cracks telegraphing through the old paint (or filler) will need to be ground out and repaired with glass, else the damage will telegraph through the new gel when youre done. Looks like a fair amount of bondo on the deck- hopefully just filling in shallow scratches. While it will be labor intensive to get this done, it wont take a lot of fine skills- so keep trudging. Matching the color for the spot gel repair will likely be the hardest part.

Sanding sucks, but when youre done you'll have the best possible finish. For those of us with a bit more time than $$, some sweat equity will go a long ways on a project boat! I wouldnt have considered a wrap or a repaint, FWIW... keep up the good work!

Id pull off the windshield and all other hardware, btw... the few minutes it takes to remove and reinstall later will be well worth the time and aggravation saved by not having to work around them. Both with the sandpaper and the wheel.

Oh, and no need to go all the way to 1500+ grit on the paper when you get to that point... if you use an aggressive enough compound and a proper pad, only 1000-1200 grit may be necessary. Using a tracer at each step is a good idea so that you only sand as much as you need to on each round.

College Kid
01-02-2013, 05:32 PM
OK Boys, I was supposed to go back to work today, but called it a half day as I just wanted to get back to work on the boat......I love that I get to work from home.

I am super excited about the progress and hopefully I can finish strong.... I still have along way to go, and unfortunately it is all the little fiddly places that the sander won't get into.

Once i had finished off as much as I could with the sander I cleaned up (there is still dust everywhere) and wiped down the boat with water. I was even able to work a bit with door open today!!!!!! only -3C outside......lol

After wiping the boat down i got a little giddy and decided to polish and wax a small part of the bow...................look at that SHINE!!!!!!!!

Sorry for all the pictures, I got a little carried away.

College Kid
01-02-2013, 05:40 PM
Opps forgot to attach them.....

College Kid
01-02-2013, 05:43 PM
that final pic is the outside of the port side repair.

TRBenj, thanks for comments, I feel the same way about people who paint gel coats. just don't understand it. what are tracers? I've never heard that term.

bsloop
01-02-2013, 06:14 PM
I think you will contiue to find more problem areas that will continue to plague this project and be a huge waste of time and $$$.

The boat season is too short Canada to waste this much time. You said you took it on trade, I would have fixed enough of any major problem areas and sold it to someone with less OCD. Its a 20 yr old boat, use it.
Canada is a big place, a better descriptor in your profile would help but I would look for someone up there or plan a spring trip south to have someone in the States wrap it. Maybe even two trips, one to play then drop off at the location, wait a month to let them get the work done and cure then go back, pick it up and play again?

I think Kyle has had good advice all along and been patient but really, STOP and wrap it.
Best of luck.....

TRBenj
01-02-2013, 06:36 PM
$3-7k for a wrap, which would have been nothing more than a vinyl cover over the existing paint and damage? Yikes, thats some *interesting* advice. If looked at from a financial perspective, then doing nothing at all probably would have been the most straightforward way to go. Use the boat as-is or sell it as-is if you want something cherry... but he's knee deep in the project and its looking great. Full steam ahead I say!

While there will be minimal payback on the labor (you'd probably come out ahead if you worked the same number of hours at a minimum wage job, vs. the amount your boat will appreciate with the work youre doing to it), you'll absolutely come out ahead on the money invested in the tools and materials used to restore the gelcoat. $500 worth of fiberglass/gel, sandpaper and buffing supplies will go a looooong way. Thats a pretty decent ROI in terms of hobbyist projects... most restoration efforts come out way upside down on the materials alone. Then of course, theres the personal satisfaction of bringing a boat back from the dead. Hard to put a dollar figure on that.

A "tracer" is what Kyle was describing a ways back. Some spray paint thinned out and spread around will be a visual indicator on when to stop sanding each round. When its gone, it means youve removed all the scratches left from the previous grit, and can move to the next one.

MIskier
01-02-2013, 11:14 PM
Project seems to be coming along very well! As others have said surface prep will be crucial to having a great looking finish. I do disagree with using epoxy with your fiberglass repairs though, this is especially crucial in any area that will have exposed repaired glass getting gel coated.

The whole boat was built using Vinyl-Ester resin so you will not be gaining any meaningful mechanical properties, and epoxy resin will require more prep work before being able to gel over it since the two do not adhere well because of their chemical composition.

MC did go to using AME 5000 and poly light resin at some point, as current boats are built using that resin system. Although I cant track down the date when they switched.

mikeg205
01-02-2013, 11:38 PM
Project seems to be coming along very well! As others have said surface prep will be crucial to having a great looking finish. I do disagree with using epoxy with your fiberglass repairs though, this is especially crucial in any area that will have exposed repaired glass getting gel coated.

The whole boat was built using Vinyl-Ester resin so you will not be gaining any meaningful mechanical properties, and epoxy resin will require more prep work before being able to gel over it since the two do not adhere well because of their chemical composition.

Really - vinyl-ester?... then I need to bust my buddy who claimed to sell resin to MC many years ago. My bad - I assume based on the strength and longevity of some the MC's epoxy resin was used.

It's a project boat - keep going...I say. :)

Kyle
01-02-2013, 11:59 PM
College

It's looking good.

I would remove windshield and the cover snaps on the sides. It will eventually save lots of time.


I am not totally on board with re gelling the boat. I'm looking at this as a total out of pocket expense now. The amount of time put in will save tons of labor hours if you decide to paint it.

1) Removing bondo, re filling, glassing bad areas, and re gel (praying it matches, most cases it won't be exact perfect) will have a cost.

2) Prepping for paint you can do all in that shop of yours. More than likely it will just require elbow grease and sanding. Then cost of paint.

3) The wrap. This is where you pick a wrap and hope someone else who may want to buy the boat likes your taste and the ole 3k+ part.


Here is my thought process.

Sand and get it perfect and prepped for paint. Say you can get it painted for 1k. Say you re-gel and spend $500 to $1k hopefully the colors blend well. One way may cost more but the colors will be all the same color, not spotty from a gel that didnt match perfectly. Blending is hard, there is 100's of shades of white, pink, grey, and blue. The white is the easy color (glacier white) the blue is not made any more, neither is the grey and pink. That means a lot of trial and error could go on trying to match. The other may be a few $100 less but the risk of going from knee deep to waist deep is there. I say that because who knows the damage under the filler.


What if you sell the tower and fill in the holes from the tower. Then spend the cash on the boat, that way this project is not costing your cash.

Not going into tower vs no tower but you do have damage by the tower that could show back up down the line. Our boats really were not designed to have a tower either.


I used to look at my boat and smile. Now I look at it as $27k in a 20 yr old boat and there is no way to get that out if it. It's like I could go buy 2 '93 190's for that. They would not be as cool but they would be nice ski tractors that could still have a lot of fun on.


Seriously consider the cost factor in this project, but don't think that the cheapest way is the best way.

If gel doesn't match then it will look bad and will show the damaged area.

If you paint it..........assuming it's a quality job, the damage would be covered up and possibly hidden real nice. Paint is just not as durable as gel.

I would seriously weigh the options of $$$. I'm so far upside down that it is not funny. If I had a wife.......I'm pretty sure that funds for the boat would have been shut off long ago.



Whatever path you choose will be supported.

MIskier
01-03-2013, 12:19 AM
Really - vinyl-ester?... then I need to bust my buddy who claimed to sell resin to MC many years ago. My bad - I assume based on the strength and longevity of some the MC's epoxy resin was used.

It's a project boat - keep going...I say. :)

You wont find any true high volume boat builders using epoxy resins because of the special materials they required which added expense that isn't easily seen by the average customer as adding value. Heck even Cigarette uses Vinyl-Ester in its laminates.

XtwentyNot
01-03-2013, 01:20 AM
Great thread! I'm from the built not bought camp and have learned the only way to be able to do everything yourself is to roll up your sleeves and go for it.
I find that, while from an hourly standpoint, some of my projects are ludicrous, the satisfaction I get from doing things with my own two hands far outweighs the time I invest into them.
That said take the windshield and snaps off already (is there am echo in here :) ).
And I re read just to clarify, you did plan on gel coat work. Guess what? Do it yourself! No way you won't be able to pull it off. Get something fiberglass to practice on, whatever it takes. Spraying gel coat is relatively simple, watch YouTube, ask here, and go for it. Re gel as little or as much as you want. But no way you don't spray it yourself! You're already doing all the hard stuff in the prep!

TRBenj
01-03-2013, 09:38 AM
Correct Craft uses an epoxy/vinyl blend resin (AME 5000).

The prep for paint and gel is the same. Labor on the gel will be higher after its shot, as it will require a bit more time to smooth it out than paint... but this is a moot point if youre doing the work yourself. Painting the boat will result in an inferior finish, and you'd need to do the whole boat. You can do spot repairs with the gel. Color matching is the tough part, but a pro could make the repaired areas disappear. Due to the age of the boat (gel will fade or change color with age and UV exposure) a custom match would be required whether or not the original colors were available.

With the exception of the few major damage areas, I bet the damage doesnt extend very far.

Based on past experiences, I have a strong preference for working with epoxy... far easier to work with and superior strength over vinyl or poly. A quick coat of vinyl resin over any epoxy repairs would be all thats needed for a conversion coat prior to gel. Of course, if youre comfortable working with vinyl, then using it for the repairs would save that one step.

College Kid
01-03-2013, 02:13 PM
Great thread! I'm from the built not bought camp and have learned the only way to be able to do everything yourself is to roll up your sleeves and go for it.
I find that, while from an hourly standpoint, some of my projects are ludicrous, the satisfaction I get from doing things with my own two hands far outweighs the time I invest into them.
That said take the windshield and snaps off already (is there am echo in here :) ).
And I re read just to clarify, you did plan on gel coat work. Guess what? Do it yourself! No way you won't be able to pull it off. Get something fiberglass to practice on, whatever it takes. Spraying gel coat is relatively simple, watch YouTube, ask here, and go for it. Re gel as little or as much as you want. But no way you don't spray it yourself! You're already doing all the hard stuff in the prep!


Couldn't have said it better myself. I realize that there are more cost effective, or time efficient ways to get the results I am looking for.

I would also add one other point, you can't put a price on an experience..............as you guys can probably tell this is the first time I have attempted working with fiberglass, and working on restoring a boat. I am an active DIY handyman, and pride myself on my ability to do a very close to professional job when it comes to home renovations. This is the same with my trucks, and other hobbies.

My feeling is that if I can spend a bit of time in my garage learning about my boat and spending time with my family and learning a few new skills that is time better spent than sitting in front of the TV, or whatever frivolous activity you take part in.

The other thought in the back of mind through out all this tear down is, I CAN'T MAKE IT LOOK WORSE!!!!! no matter how many mistakes I make I know that in the end the boat will look 1000% times better than it did.


Thanks everyone for the thoughts. I will try and go back through and answer any questions you have asked.

mikeg205
01-03-2013, 03:59 PM
Wait did someone say cost effective and boat in the same sentence? lol... It's a labor of love...you are either a true lover of vessels or a user of vessels. nothing bad in either case... College kid you are in the former group... I plan on restoring a slightly worn or worse a S&S to it's former glory one day soon...after my kids are out of the house - which is soon....

Hopefully I will find something in between the pictures below...posted on this forum before...

College Kid
01-09-2013, 12:26 PM
Not Much news, I cleaned out the garage of dust, Although I had the tarp up is still got everywhere. I ended up just using a leaf blower and blowing as much as I could out the door. I am sure there is still lots there.

Unfortunatly work has started to get in the way of my progress, so I think it will be a slow and steady go for awhile of working on the little areas when I can grab a minute or two.

As we all know the windshields aren't available any longer and this has stopped me from removing it right away as the safest possible place for it in my mind is right where it is. My plan was always to remove it and hopefully be able to do all the heavy sanding, wet sanding, polishing, waxing, all in one shot and then re install the windshield.

As large chunks of time are less available I am now considering doing the windshield in stages, as I don't have a safe area to store it for long period of time.

Can I remove the side windows and brackets one at a time? or do I need to remove the entire windshield as one piece?

mikeg205
01-09-2013, 12:44 PM
Yes, good question... :popcorn::popcorn:

TRBenj
01-10-2013, 02:34 PM
The windshields Ive taken apart really need to be assembled and attached in order to support themselves. Taking one piece off the boat would not only be tricky, but leave the remaining pieces vulnerable to damage. Bump into one, lean against it, heck even under its own weight- I wouldnt trust it.

Just take the whole thing off and break it down into the main pieces, then store it under your bed, with a towel between the pieces.

College Kid
01-10-2013, 06:59 PM
"Just take the whole thing off and break it down into the main pieces, then store it under your bed, with a towel between the pieces."


I like that idea, hadn't thought of that!!!!! now can I sneak it into the house past my wife????? lol

College Kid
02-02-2013, 07:51 PM
Finally had a chance to do a little work on the project.

I was able to drill out the rivets for the domes earlier in the week and finished sanding down the sides.

Today was the scary part, removing the glass, It went alot better than I thought, although there were a few holy **** moments.

Here are the pictures, I am now at decision time as to what do do about all the brown filler.

College Kid
02-04-2013, 06:18 PM
Had a bit more time over this weekend, and a little today.

Did a lot of work wet sanding the larger gouges out of the hull that I can get to (other side is just too close to the wall to work).

I worked through 600 and 800 grit, then as I ran some compound over the top deck to see how I was doing. I finished off by buffing with no product just to bring out the shine a little, and to highlight the areas that need more wet sanding with 1000 and 1500 grit.

I don't plan on doing much more wet sanding till I deal with the patch work, then do a finishing work from the new gel coat and all the other swirl marks at one time.

Eljaybee
02-04-2013, 06:28 PM
Lookin good! Keep the pictures coming.

jhall0711
02-04-2013, 06:52 PM
Great work man. Keep it up. Hopefully the repairs go well and it all comes together for ya.

Double D
02-04-2013, 07:45 PM
Great work on making that boat original again. Obviously the PO had a problem with the Raspberry color.... :(

mikeg205
02-04-2013, 07:52 PM
Okay I think this thread needs to go into the resto refurbish thread...much more than a small project.

jhall0711
02-04-2013, 08:08 PM
Great work on making that boat original again. Obviously the PO had a problem with the Raspberry color.... :(

Yea. Those raspberry boats.... You know how those people are. :D

XtwentyNot
02-04-2013, 08:16 PM
89595

Quit wasting swirl remover. Go in this order :)

Double D
02-04-2013, 08:22 PM
Yea. Those raspberry boats.... You know how those people are. :D

From what I heard, pretty darn cool!! Ha Ha!!

College Kid
02-04-2013, 09:02 PM
89595

Quit wasting swirl remover. Go in this order :)

Thanks, it's what I had laying around. When I actually get to the finishing I will be doing it right.

For the life I me I wasn't a fan of the raspberry, felt like it was a little too "90's". But after all this work I really am quite fond of it.

College Kid
02-04-2013, 09:07 PM
Question for the group:

What are the thoughts on pinstripping?

I am struggling with the patches that run through all three colours of gel coat and how I am going to be able to do that in a patch. (see picture)

My thought was that I could probably do white gel on top and blue on the bottom and meet them in the raspberry colour.

Then hide the area where they join under a discrete grey pinstrip.

Double D
02-04-2013, 09:09 PM
Thanks, it's what I had laying around. When I actually get to the finishing I will be doing it right.

For the life I me I wasn't a fan of the raspberry, felt like it was a little too "90's". But after all this work I really am quite fond of it.

That's the spirit!!! Au Naturel! (In a natural state) :D:D

mikeg205
02-04-2013, 09:28 PM
Question for the group:

What are the thoughts on pinstripping?

I am struggling with the patches that run through all three colours of gel coat and how I am going to be able to do that in a patch. (see picture)

My thought was that I could probably do white gel on top and blue on the bottom and meet them in the raspberry colour.

Then hide the where they join under a discrete grey pinstrip.

Good Spot for a cool decal? :) But if your MC-OCD is above a 6 then three colors of gel coat :)

XtwentyNot
02-04-2013, 09:37 PM
Thanks, it's what I had laying around. When I actually get to the finishing I will be doing it right.

For the life I me I wasn't a fan of the raspberry, felt like it was a little too "90's". But after all this work I really am quite fond of it.

89600

Ha! That's how I felt about my old boat. Sorry about my remark, couldn't help it :)

I actually switched to 3M, try some!

89601
89602

College Kid
02-13-2013, 01:48 PM
A bit of an update,

I was finally able to clean up the garage enough to move the boat off the wall and get to the other side to work on that trouble area.

I have ground out most of the filler/bondo. The patch actually looks pretty good, I don't think I am going to have to do any structural work. Just need to sort out the best way to go about gel coating the different colours.

Also uncovered the patch on the stern corner, I still need to do some more work on uncovering it to know how much damage was done there.

mikeg205
02-13-2013, 02:12 PM
I agree with you structural repair... The lack of additional cracking leads me to agree with you. You've done a great job so far!! :) -

Lumbergh
02-13-2013, 03:47 PM
Nice work and perseverance.

Love to see someone go all out, I know I would have bailed and sold the boat a long time ago.

Keep up the pics and updates.

College Kid
02-13-2013, 11:42 PM
for Lumbergh:

36-3/4 inches from here to the center hole of the forward mount.

bsloop
02-14-2013, 01:25 PM
Hull has had a ROUGH life!

Getting crisp lines while shooting gel is VERY difficult, especially over 4 colors and close together like the pink stripe.
I would try to match the blue and white, leaving the pink as "no mans land" to blend together.
Use a vinyl pin stripe to cover the blend and get rid of the pink. Looks like the interior has been recovered, removing the pink so why keep it outside?
Silver flake would add a pop to the timeless white/blue and match current production trends.

You are a glutton for punishment.
Repaired gel is not the same as factory gel. It is much thinner, having a tendency to chip like paint (that is all it is, thick paint). If you hope to get top dollar for it, sell as soon as you are finished. If you used it for a season or two, the myraid of imperfections will begin to show and sale price will drop significantly.
I still vote, get the surface smooth and wrap it!

College Kid
02-14-2013, 06:19 PM
I am not looking to sell it anytime soon, not after all this work. lol

Thanks for the thoughts on the gel not lasting very well, it actually gives me a little more confidence in attempting it myself. I don't figure I am going to get the colour match right the first time so I suspect over the time I own the boat my MCOCD will take over and I'll end up trying to match the colour better is subsequent years.

I like your idea about a silver pin stripe. I had thought black but looking boat and thinking about no having the top raspberry stripe. A silver that matches the the lower hull would look pretty great.

College Kid
05-04-2013, 10:37 AM
so after a bit of an upset on the gelcoat colour and a lot of detective work I am back on track.

I was able to get start work a few weeks ago on the blue, It was alot easier than I expected and I think has turned out amazing!!! I am really happy with the progress. I ended up not shooting it but just brushing it on with a small artist paint brush. It took a few coats to be able to build it up to the proper level but with some practice I was able to mix one batch and work with it over a couple of layers.


I should be able to get started on the grey dawn (white), later today or tomorrow.

SSMoose
05-04-2013, 03:10 PM
College, I am stunned by your work. You have made me a little jealous that you have the guts to do this. Keep up the good work. Your effort is being rewarded by the gain of skills and pride in workmanship. It keeps looking better each set of pics. There will always be those who will say you are nuts to do all this. Keep your own counsel and you will know when to stop. :)

Traxx822
05-04-2013, 03:48 PM
It's amazing

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

mikeg205
05-04-2013, 05:17 PM
nice job - very nice job... !!!

thatsmrmastercraft
05-04-2013, 07:47 PM
Beautiful work. :toast:

petermegan
05-04-2013, 07:55 PM
Can't believe how you are bringing that abused boat back to life. Top effort.

College Kid
05-05-2013, 10:10 AM
Thanks guys,

I am really happy with the results, hopefully the grey comes out as well as the blue.

College Kid
05-14-2014, 05:28 PM
Wow Can't believe it is over a year since I updated this. Here is how she sits today. Unfortunately I have yet to get her on the water since all my hard work. Had a set back at the beginning of last season (Flywheel). See this thread: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=56129

With Work, Life, House, and Kids and more importantly the Frozen Weather. I wasn't able to do much work on it over the off season. We finally are having regular above zero temperatures and I am back it. Hopefully will have some water shots very soon.

cbryan70
05-14-2014, 09:03 PM
Got any blue gel coat laying around?

College Kid
05-15-2014, 12:14 AM
Actually I do. Had to order a whole quart. although I am not sure if is still good. It as been sitting for over a year now.

02ProstarSammyD
05-15-2014, 08:58 AM
Stuff is usually fine as long as no hardener was added. I had a bunch sit around for a year and it worked fine. I was just using it for a couple of screw holes though. Super nice work on this boat!

cbryan70
05-15-2014, 09:55 AM
Actually I do. Had to order a whole quart. although I am not sure if is still good. It as been sitting for over a year now.

is it flagship? I dont think I would need much.... all they have available now is gallons

College Kid
05-15-2014, 10:09 AM
yep it is flagship.

mikeg205
05-15-2014, 10:22 AM
Looks awesome college!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

cbryan70
05-15-2014, 01:14 PM
yep it is flagship.
PM at you