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wakescene
08-02-2012, 05:02 PM
Anyone have a source for ECM/ECU in the aftermarket.

I have a 2001 LTR 330hp that's got a bad ECU. I can only imagine what the new one would cost from the dealer...

LYNRDSKYNRD
08-02-2012, 05:16 PM
Maybe these would work

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=indmar+ecm&_sacat=0&_odkw=indmar+ecu&_osacat=0

Jim@BAWS
08-03-2012, 09:47 AM
Anyone have a source for ECM/ECU in the aftermarket.

I have a 2001 LTR 330hp that's got a bad ECU. I can only imagine what the new one would cost from the dealer...

Unless I am msitaken...the ECM and or ECUs are prorgrammed for the specfic engine
that are marinized by what ever company. A PCM programmed ECM will not work on a
INDMAR engine

On occasion they can be reflashed and updated. If you where to take you ECm to your
dealer he could check it for you

Flatwaterfooter
08-03-2012, 10:05 AM
Is the ECM unit different than the DEP Unit?

CantRepeat
08-03-2012, 10:47 AM
Anyone have a source for ECM/ECU in the aftermarket.

I have a 2001 LTR 330hp that's got a bad ECU. I can only imagine what the new one would cost from the dealer...

I don't know about a dealer, but I believe Indmar charges $1000 + for new ECMs.

Jim is correct, the ECMs are calibrated for each application, but most of the Indmar CAL files are available to dealers. Using the DIACOM software a dealer, or anyone that knows how to use the software can reprogram the MEFI 4 ECUs.

CantRepeat
08-03-2012, 10:58 AM
Maybe these would work

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=indmar+ecm&_sacat=0&_odkw=indmar+ecu&_osacat=0


These will not work. They are MEFI 5 ECMs and the OP has either a MEFI3 or MEFI 4 ECM and my money is on a 4.

ranger098
08-03-2012, 06:57 PM
i had a similar problem where i needed an ECU for my 04 x2 Indmar predator 310 with a MEFI 4. take my advice and just spend the money on a new ECU from the factory. they are very specific to your boat and it will be extremely hard to find the right one used. if you did find one used, it would either have to be for your exact boat or you would have to pay to have the engine manufacturer reprogram the ECU.

i ended up paying almost exactly 1000 for my ECU, but it saved me alot of time and headaches. it sucks, but ECU's are expensive and i just had to accept that. good luck !

wakescene
08-03-2012, 07:09 PM
Good info gents, I do appreciate it.

NEW QUESTIONS:
If the ECM were to go bad, would the motor still run? Also, I am under the impression that the gauges are also run off the ECM. Again if the ECM were bad, would the gauges still work (work meaning, turning the key to the ACC setting and having them reset before firing up the motor?).

Thanks again.
Kevin

CantRepeat
08-03-2012, 07:26 PM
Good info gents, I do appreciate it.

NEW QUESTIONS:
If the ECM were to go bad, would the motor still run? Also, I am under the impression that the gauges are also run off the ECM. Again if the ECM were bad, would the gauges still work (work meaning, turning the key to the ACC setting and having them reset before firing up the motor?).

Thanks again.
Kevin

Hey Kevin,

Maybe we'd be able to offer more help if you explained exactly what your boat is doing or not doing.

ranger098
08-03-2012, 08:05 PM
it depends on what exactly is wrong with your ecu, i would imagine your engine could still run if there is a minor problem with the ECU. i agree with above, we need a better description of whats working and not working. also let us know what kind of engine you have (indmar, PCM etc)

wakescene
08-03-2012, 08:36 PM
it depends on what exactly is wrong with your ecu, i would imagine your engine could still run if there is a minor problem with the ECU. i agree with above, we need a better description of whats working and not working. also let us know what kind of engine you have (indmar, PCM etc)

Engine is a Indmar LTR 330hp. Chevy 350 SB. (I believe the LTR is a Indmar, no?(please correct me if wrong))

History:
Last summer (2011) I noticed a slight misfire. I located the cylinder and checked out the Coilpack. It has some light corrosion. I completely cleaned that up and added diElectric grease to all of the connections on all the coilpacks. Misfire DID go away.

Early July 2012, I noticed the misfire return. I suspected the coilpack again, but at speed and at idle, it appeared to be nonexistent.

CURRENT CONDITION:
Last weekend, I accelerated to get a wakeboarder up and immediately began to lose power. Dropped to idle, motor was running very rough.

Shut down and restarted motor, fired up, but again ran rough. If you goose it, it revs up, and kinda feels normal, but return to idle, and it's rough again.

We were able to Idle home safely.

Back at the dock. I performed several restarts with the same results, but of the 4 times I did this while checking connections, one of the times produced a stall. This was very similar to the fuel pump failure issue that has been discussed here many times. A little rev of the RPM's and when she returns to idle, the motor stalls. But she started up fine, but again with a rough idle.

I will be returning to the boat tonight, with a bunch of tools that I didn't have last weekend (its a summer home 160mi away).

I hope this helps some of you guru's, and of course If you want me to test something out, check something with a multi-meter, spark tester, compression tester, or otherwise, just point me there. I am starting a week vacation tonight, and it's brutal to know the boat it not operational.

Thanks,
Kevin

FYI, I have replacement coilpacks and the corresponding ECU, had them for a few weeks.

ranger098
08-03-2012, 08:55 PM
seems like with those symptoms i wouldnt jump to the ECU, and there are much cheaper things you should check out first.

i would definitely fuel pressure, and also plugs and wires. you can rent a fuel pressure guage and most auto parts stores if yaint got one. could be something other than the coil but sounds either electrical or fuel related. you could also easily check the plugs and see if theyre fouled or anythig.

wakescene
08-07-2012, 12:46 AM
UPDATE:
I did some through checking of just about everything today. Was showing codes for the TPS and MAP sensor. Replace those. rough idle still existed. Cleaned a lot of stuff, and replaced the spark plugs (needed to be replaced) and still problem existed.

Busted out the Compression tester...(numbers rounded to simplfy visual...)
Cyl 1 - 175psi
Cyl 2 - 175psi
Cyl 3 - 175psi
Cyl 4 - 175psi
Cyl 5 - 50psi
Cyl 6 - 175psi
Cyl 7 - 175psi
Cyl 8 - 175psi

See anything wrong here???

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
08-07-2012, 01:10 AM
Looks like a head gasket is in order, time to open her up and check out her insides.

wakescene
08-07-2012, 01:27 AM
Looks like a head gasket is in order, time to open her up and check out her insides.
Yes that s possible, but we are thinking a bad valve based on the looks of the sparkplug coloring...either way, got some decisions to make, especially with over 1000hrs on her.

What a way to start vacation...

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
08-07-2012, 09:11 AM
You can perform a leakdown test and that will confirm which components failed.

SilviaMan
08-07-2012, 09:50 AM
disable the fuel system, squirt some oil in #5 and see if compression comes back.
If its multi port injection its possible you have an injector leaking into that cylinder. (Or possibly a fuel pressure regulator depending on the injection setup.)

JimN
08-07-2012, 10:08 AM
Good info gents, I do appreciate it.

NEW QUESTIONS:
If the ECM were to go bad, would the motor still run? Also, I am under the impression that the gauges are also run off the ECM. Again if the ECM were bad, would the gauges still work (work meaning, turning the key to the ACC setting and having them reset before firing up the motor?).

Thanks again.
Kevin

The gauges are run by a separate box and if the ECM is bad, the engine may run, but it would have to meet specific conditions in order for this to happen.

If the key is turned to ON and the battery is connected with the + and - reversed, the ECM will be irreparably damaged.