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imracin68j
08-02-2012, 02:13 AM
Got it all together but can't figure out the firing order of a ford because ford has various firing orders. The common one everyone says to use isn't mine. This is mine: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. I finally got that and the motor sounded "OK" Took it on the water and under load it was shooting ducks out of the carb. Changed out the wires, same deal. Put a new cap on it, same deal, changed the carb, same deal. I did a compression test and I only had 90lbs., 0 on a couple. I backed the nut off 3/4 turns and the compression when to 140lbs. My push rods are too long with the new heads I think. I think I can get some kind of shim.

I've been to the lake twice and unloaded it and shot ducks and put it back on trailer. ***

SkiDaddy
08-02-2012, 06:12 AM
I don't have a great answer for you, but check out www.corral.net It is a mustang oriented website message board. I bet if you search the message boards there, you will find an answer about your pushrod length. Also, I'd suggest double-checking your valve/rocker arm adjustment procedure....

Good luck!!

silverblueBP
08-02-2012, 08:37 AM
Did you use the adj pushrods to get the proper length? Did you check the wear pattern on top of the valves? If so, was it centered?

TRBenj
08-02-2012, 11:10 AM
Did you go through the process of shimming to set the proper lifter preload (on every rocker)? It doesnt sound like it. Assuming the P heads have not been converted to accept adjustable rockers (although that may be the case since youre talking about backing off the nuts, where pedestal heads use bolts), shimming will most likely be required on every single one when reusing the original pushrods- if the heads have been refurb'd, then they were likely surfaced, which changes the valvetrain geometry. If adjustable, then you need to put each lifter on the base circle and tighten each rocker ~3/4 turn past zero lash.

13726548 is the correct firing order for any 351w. Marine 302's shared this same firing order from about 1973 on. Prior to that, the 302 used the same FO as the 289 and 260 (15426378). The engine WILL run on either firing order... but the wrong one will cause it to run on only 4 cylinders (you may notice that 37 and 54 are swapped on the 2 FO's).

You need to tell us more about your set up. Do you have a pre-73 302 (or 289)? How are your heads set up?

imracin68j
08-02-2012, 02:31 PM
The boat is a 88 master craft with original motor. The regular fire order wouldn't even try to start the other one did. It has indmar on the valve cover. The engine is a 351 roter spinning counter and engine turning clockwise. I just bolted heads on

TRBenj
08-02-2012, 02:35 PM
Do you have the #1 plug wire hooked up to the correct post? If its 180 out and you try the "other" windsor firing order, the engine will run on 4 cylinders. (I have done this).

You need to make sure that the #1 plug wire is hooked to the post that the rotor points towards when the #1 cylinder is at TDC of the compression stroke. If you have it hooked up to the post that it points to at TDC of the exhaust stroke (180 out) then it will not run. If you simply put the engine at TDC on the balancer and wired it up, you have a 50% chance of being right.

An '88 of any flavor (and any 351w) will have the 13726548 FO (assuming its LH, which it is).

jfw432
08-02-2012, 02:43 PM
The boat is a 88 master craft with original motor. The regular fire order wouldn't even try to start the other one did. It has indmar on the valve cover. The engine is a 351 roter spinning counter and engine turning clockwise. I just bolted heads on

Clockwise looking aft at the engine or clockwise looking forwards at the prop? Based on your firing order, I'm assuming clockwise looking aft but I figure it can't hurt to ask.

thatsmrmastercraft
08-02-2012, 02:57 PM
Do you have the #1 plug wire hooked up to the correct post? If its 180 out and you try the "other" windsor firing order, the engine will run on 4 cylinders. (I have done this).

You need to make sure that the #1 plug wire is hooked to the post that the rotor points towards when the #1 cylinder is at TDC of the compression stroke. If you have it hooked up to the post that it points to at TDC of the exhaust stroke (180 out) then it will not run. If you simply put the engine at TDC on the balancer and wired it up, you have a 50% chance of being right.

An '88 of any flavor (and any 351w) will have the 13726548 FO (assuming its LH, which it is).

This is where the 50/50/90 rule comes into play where if you have a 50% chance of being right, there is a 90% chance that you end up wrong.

mrprostar
08-02-2012, 03:05 PM
Timing light?

imracin68j
08-02-2012, 04:10 PM
Ya, I put my finger over the hole and made sure I was really at tdc. Then I set the diz in and lined it up with number 1. It shouldn't matter where it's stabbed as long as 1 in on the tdc. It's a valve problem as there is no compression until I back the valves off.

TRBenj
08-02-2012, 05:12 PM
I dont doubt that you have a valve problem if you were showing no compression... but the firing order still doesnt make sense. Unless someone installed a pre-1972 302 in your boat.

Like I said before, we need more info on how your heads are set up.

imracin68j
08-03-2012, 03:46 AM
Ok, so I got it working. You guys were right on the firing order. My buddy said it's easy to figure out. Once you have the motor on true TDC the compression will be on the number one. Put your finger on the hole you think is next, in this case either 3 or 5. It was 3 when I bumped it over. I also had the distributer flipped, dumb me. I did have to shim the right side. The other side was pumping around 140psi so I didn't do anything on that side. After I got it going I noticed the motor was running hot with the fake a lake on. I think the therm was sticking. I yanked it, I'm just going to run a 5/8 restrictor. I figure with all the stuff in a lake cutting through there a restrictor would be better anyway. Still need to take it out but it sounds good so far. Oh ya, the hub broke off my trailer after I got it figured out. Damn. I can't believe I could get the motor up to 5000 rpm with it 180 out.

CantRepeat
08-03-2012, 05:33 AM
Ok, so I got it working. You guys were right on the firing order. My buddy said it's easy to figure out. Once you have the motor on true TDC the compression will be on the number one. Put your finger on the hole you think is next, in this case either 3 or 5. It was 3 when I bumped it over. I also had the distributer flipped, dumb me. I did have to shim the right side. The other side was pumping around 140psi so I didn't do anything on that side. After I got it going I noticed the motor was running hot with the fake a lake on. I think the therm was sticking. I yanked it, I'm just going to run a 5/8 restrictor. I figure with all the stuff in a lake cutting through there a restrictor would be better anyway. Still need to take it out but it sounds good so far. Oh ya, the hub broke off my trailer after I got it figured out. Damn. I can't believe I could get the motor up to 5000 rpm with it 180 out.

If you have that much junk in your lake you might want to run a strainer.

thatsmrmastercraft
08-03-2012, 10:24 AM
Good to hear you got it sorted out. The previous owner of my boat had the firing order screwed up, among many other things, when I first got it so I can understand the frustration hair pulling.

imracin68j
08-06-2012, 02:53 AM
So, I got my broken hub fixed and actually got it out on the lake today. I really liked the difference. It sounds and feels like a new engine. No more fuel/oil smell. I got it up to 45 and I backed off. My old top end was 38. It is a lot smoother on acceleration. One thing I really liked was wake boarding. When you cut the motor doesn't fall off. Overall I'm pleased after all the headaches. I will say that I think my restrictor is too big but I'm not sure.

How does temp work on a boat with a restrict? The engine felt warm but the water only said 130. I don't believe the engine was only 130 because the water isn't locked in the motor enough to heat up in time. The oil is still hot. AN oil temp gauge would be way more accurate. http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a294/imracin68j/ENGINE.jpg

cptskier15
08-06-2012, 05:34 AM
Nice looking motor!!

pbgbottle
08-13-2012, 01:04 AM
how do you like that distributor .? where did you get it ? no clearance issues?

imracin68j
08-14-2012, 01:39 AM
I love it, it's simple. ebay, no clearance issues at all. It runs like a new engine.

thatsmrmastercraft
08-14-2012, 09:52 AM
Is that a marine distributor?

pbgbottle
08-14-2012, 11:35 PM
X2 ya is it . i dont see any marine ones on ebay



Is that a marine distributor?

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
08-15-2012, 12:00 AM
X2 ya is it . i dont see any marine ones on ebay

His distributor is NOT marine rated this is what he installed http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=350508517320 current listing http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-351w-Windsor-v8-50-000-Volt-HEI-Distributor-Small-Block-Ford-JM6510R-/350500508361?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item519b7552c9&vxp=mtr and this is his thread talking about his HEI distributor http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=48024 DUI is the only hei style distributor that is marine rated that I know of http://www.performancedistributors.com/marinedui.htm and it's a few more $$ than the $50 dollar ebay unit.

pbgbottle
08-15-2012, 10:28 PM
these guys have some for $260

http://www.aaamarine.com/servlet/the-2267/FordCruiserMarine-HEI-marine-electronic/Detail



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