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cmarston
07-31-2012, 01:16 PM
I have an 03 Mastercraft Trailer for my X-30. The other week I noticed that one of the wheels was hot to the touch compared to the other wheels and a burnt smell coming from it. I brought it into our local tire/brake place to have them look at it b/c the nearest Mastercraft dealership is about an hour away and now three out of the four wheels are hot to touch and same burnt smell.

Prior to this issue, for the most part, since I purchased it over a year ago, I have always had to place a screwdriver between the actuator (don't know if I have the term correct) and the tongue in order to be able to back up. I don't know if this is related.

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone might have some ideas on what is going wrong with the trailer. I am not too mechanical and don't want to get taken advantage of if it might be a straightforward fix. Thanks in advance for any help!

bturner2
07-31-2012, 03:03 PM
Chances are if you have a MC trailer you have Reliable brakes (calipers and actuator). The orginal calipers have a known issue of hanging and causing overheating problems from "dragging" the pads. Reliable was replacing the calipers for free with Kodiak calipers while they were in business but it would appear they are no longer in business. That being said the fix would be to replace all the calipers and bleed the brakes. I did this on my 03 X2 and did a post on this site. You should also be able to do a search on the site and find a ton of posts with this very issue. Unless MC is stepping up and replacing these now, which I doubt after all these years you'll probably be on the hook for the parts.

The good news is this is about as easy a brake job that can be out there. As for your backing up issue I would suspect that you are not using a 5 wire connector on your tow vehicle, the reverse solenoid is bad or your wiring is bad either on your tow vehicle or trailer. That fifth wire hooks to your reverse light circuit and energizes the solenoid to allow the actuator to compress without applying pressure to the calipers hence allowing brake free backing.

Here's a link to Kodiak......

http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/index.php?option=com_productbook&func=viewcategory&Itemid=51&catid=5

There are other vendors out there but these are what were supplied to me to replace the original calipers.

deminimis
07-31-2012, 03:10 PM
Bingo. Had the same issue. Reliable calipers froze up. The sizzling sound when putting the trailer in the water was a dead give away. You'll need to have your rotors turned as well (approx $15 each, assuming you pull them). Of course, the grease seals you get at auto parts stores will not work for you oil bath hubs, so you will need these: part# 168255TC and can be found here, among other places: http://estore.ezloader.com/product.asp?3=1408 I bought the seals from Trailer Parts express: http://www.trailerpartsexpress.com/index.php?route=common/home but their website doesn't seem to be working all that well now (perhaps out of business -nothing a phone call won't determine). Good luck!!

cmarston
07-31-2012, 03:34 PM
Great, thanks for the replies! They just called me and told me it was the calipers and that they need to be replaced, so your replies confirms their diagnosis.

SpryBeast
07-31-2012, 03:41 PM
I'm in the process of replacing mine on an '03 X-30 as well. Had one lock up, replaced it, and then decided to order 3 more calipers to replace the rest. When bleeding the brakes after swapping the first caliper I found that the other three bleed valves have rust on the inside so it seems likely that the caliper pistons do as well.

Best price I found was on ebay ($74 shipped for new Dacrament coated Kodiak 225's).

deminimis
07-31-2012, 03:45 PM
I know you said you are not all that mechanical, but this really isn't difficult too do. We can guide you through it. First thing to do is order the Kodiak calipers (4) and new oil bath seals (4). Second, locate a brake shop that will turn your rotors. If still using your trailer, and you've got a big enough rig to stop it, I'd remove the current calipers right now so that quits giving you problems. Once you've got your parts in hand, it's time to go to work. Jack up, remove wheels and hubs. Remove seals and bearings (put in bag and label so you put the same bearings back in the same hubs). Label your hubs (not on the rotor part). Take hubs in to have them turned. Once home, clean them to rid yourself of any left over metal savings. Put the rear bearing in a hub and install a new seal. On it goes, install your front bearing and washer. Tighten to spec, put nut stop and cotter pin in, fill with oil (I like 50wt, but other are using 90wt, etc.). Repeat. Bleed. Done and done. You'll save a fortune. If you have a shop do it, make sure they know the seal part number otherwise there's a good chance you'll end up with a grease seal in your hubs, which will not work. If it's at a MC dealer, they'll already know this, of course.

SpryBeast
07-31-2012, 04:09 PM
I agree completely with deminimis... there wasn't anything difficult about it and I'd never messed with brakes before. I thought the hardest part was bleeding the brakes. Also, I didn't have a large enough allen wrench in my set to get the old calipers off. I can get the size later if you need it (I may have used 18mm?? but that seems too big). While there may be better options I just got my rotors turned at an auto parts store (O'Reilly). As deminimis said, make sure to do the seals. Mine were cracked and leaky... and that was 2 years ago.

deminimis
08-01-2012, 05:38 PM
Easier than proper grammar/spelling ("to do" not "too do" -I'm a knob.)