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BallBushing
07-16-2012, 12:29 PM
The electrical connection between the yellow socket and 3 wire black plug tends to jiggle loose and cause the engine to die. I currently use my daughters hair tie to keep the parts together. However, the connection is still not the best and needs to be re-plugged every now & then. My question is: Where can I buy a new 3 wire black connector? or is it possible to bend the internal sockets in the black plug to get a better connection? Any info is appreciated.81596

Retoxtony
07-16-2012, 01:02 PM
I have exactly the same problem with my boat. I tried using tie wraps, wire, elastics and tape trying to get it to hold in place but it would still cut out atleast once every time we took the boat out. I found that it wasn't the connector not being pushed in far enough, it was the actual pins inside the connector. I pulled it apart and bent things to make better contact and its been good so far. It hasn't happened in the last 15 hours i put on the boat so i think i have the issue solved. Once i park the boat for the winter i'm going to pull out the connector and find a replacement just to make sure the problem doesnt happen again.

Cary K.
07-16-2012, 01:24 PM
Mine is doing the same thing as well. Drives me crazy.

BallBushing
07-16-2012, 01:52 PM
I have exactly the same problem with my boat. I tried using tie wraps, wire, elastics and tape trying to get it to hold in place but it would still cut out atleast once every time we took the boat out. I found that it wasn't the connector not being pushed in far enough, it was the actual pins inside the connector. I pulled it apart and bent things to make better contact and its been good so far. It hasn't happened in the last 15 hours i put on the boat so i think i have the issue solved. Once i park the boat for the winter i'm going to pull out the connector and find a replacement just to make sure the problem doesnt happen again.

To confirm, did you bend things inside the black connector? I'm thinking that would be easiest.

Retoxtony
07-16-2012, 04:24 PM
To confirm, did you bend things inside the black connector? I'm thinking that would be easiest.


Ya i pushed the sockets out of the black connector and then i adjusted them so they grip the pins inside the yellow end on the fuel pump a little tighter. I adjusted all three wires but i know it was just the green wire that was giving me trouble. Its working for now, but i really should just replace the connector, as i think it'll loosen up again over time.

Its funny, the previous owner must have had this problem as well and misdiagnosed it. The boat has a brand new fuel pump, and all the wiring to the pump is new except he reused the last 6 inches of the harness and the old connector.

JimN
07-16-2012, 04:32 PM
Find a schematic for the pump- I'm not sure the green wire has anything to do with how/if the pump will work.

Is it just the way the photo looks, or is the yellow plastic broken off or worn, where the black retainer clip slides over? It looks like it may allow the black housing to slide backward.

How many times has the harness been removed from the pump?

That should be a Packard connector. The only thing that could be considered a problem is that the terminals (the metal clips) will need to be installed using the proper crimper if you only replace them or the black plastic part. Del City may have them. If you buy a repair harness, use Heat N Seal splices with low temperature solder, not just regular butt connectors.

BallBushing
07-16-2012, 04:54 PM
The yellow connector is new. I also misdiagnosed the problem and bought a new fuel assembly. (could not find an exact replacement for the fuel pump itself). The problem is with the black retainer clip. it's bent backwards and will not hold onto the yellow part.

Retoxtony
07-20-2012, 12:21 PM
I'm gonna give this a bump to see if anyone has a wiring diagram for this. Prob be useful in the future and i'd like to know for sure what each wire does.

CCAnderson
07-20-2012, 02:25 PM
any insight on how to get the terminals out of the connector?

I have the exact same issue on my '01 209. Only took me a year to figure out and to fix temporarily but annoying as all get for the skier that is waiting on the platform.

JimN
07-20-2012, 03:17 PM
any insight on how to get the terminals out of the connector?

I have the exact same issue on my '01 209. Only took me a year to figure out and to fix temporarily buy annoying as all get for the skier that is waiting on the platform.

They need special tools. Not that something can't be improvised, but it risks damaging the terminal or retainer. If you have a T pin or something heavier than a stick pin, you should be able to close the female terminal enough to make better contact. If the retainer is damaged, this won't matter- it should be replaced. These are probably Packard connectors.

JimN
07-20-2012, 03:21 PM
I'm gonna give this a bump to see if anyone has a wiring diagram for this. Prob be useful in the future and i'd like to know for sure what each wire does.

There are only three wires- the green is a ground, to keep static from being a problem, the black is the signal ground and the other is HOT.

Just in case it's necessary to comment- never connect a harness when the fumes from the tank are present and if the person working on the boat is wearing long pants (if the humidity is extremely low, it doesn't matter), discharge any static electricity before touching the wires to the MDC box that controls the gauges or if the fumes are present.

CCAnderson
07-20-2012, 05:23 PM
found the terminal release tool at

http://www.pcsconnectors.com/12094430.aspx

these are not the more common weather pack connections it looks like a person should be able to use a thin piece of steel to release the tang and take out the terminals for cleaning and "adjustment"

Flatwaterfooter
07-20-2012, 05:35 PM
New harness is 25 bucks at the dealer

JimN
07-20-2012, 07:29 PM
found the terminal release tool at

http://www.pcsconnectors.com/12094430.aspx

these are not the more common weather pack connections it looks like a person should be able to use a thin piece of steel to release the tang and take out the terminals for cleaning and "adjustment"

That's a terminal release tool- they have several. I don't remember, but the terminals may be "pull to seat", rather than "push to seat". Each uses a different tool.

Retoxtony
07-21-2012, 01:03 AM
There are only three wires- the green is a ground, to keep static from being a problem, the black is the signal ground and the other is HOT.

Just in case it's necessary to comment- never connect a harness when the fumes from the tank are present and if the person working on the boat is wearing long pants (if the humidity is extremely low, it doesn't matter), discharge any static electricity before touching the wires to the MDC box that controls the gauges or if the fumes are present.


Thanks, when i was messing with the connector it seemed to me that the green wire was the one causing the problem, but i must have been wrong. I'm really hoping that i've got it fixed for now, its not a huge problem but it sure can get annoying.

CCAnderson
07-23-2012, 08:25 AM
I worked on mine over the weekend using a small flat screwdriver like the king you might use to tighten the screws in your eye glasses. I was able to insert the screw drive under the contact an push the terminal out the back of the socket. a bit of cleaning with starting fluid and re-positioning of the metal and that was enough. We'll see if this is more than another temporary solution.

BallBushing
07-24-2012, 07:53 AM
Ordered a new wiring harness (with the black connector) from Rambo Marine $38 + shipping. In the meantime, my quick fix is to shoot some electrical contact cleaner into both ends of the connection, work them back & forth a few times and secure with a new hair tie. Been good for two weekends so far.

mtajpa
07-26-2012, 01:50 AM
When you get the new harness remove the bolt near the connector (in the first picture) first as it will cause you to force the connector in at an angle and possibly bend the pins again. Once the black connector is installed in the pump then replace the bolt.

BallBushing
07-29-2012, 12:01 PM
Good Idea. The new harness came with a plastic shroud around the wires. Was thinking of cutting off a section of the plastic near the bolt for more clearance. Not a great design, they should have taken the connector vs. bolt location into consideration. Looked at my old fuel pump assembly and the yellow/black connection can't be rotated into a better position.

Also have to figure out where the green wire is attached. It's about 4 feet long, encased in plastic with a screw attachment fitting on the end. The current one goes into a hole under the back seat. Will have to take off a back panel to figure it out.

mtajpa
07-29-2012, 08:51 PM
The green wire probably goes to or went to your filler neck. On mine it actually is connected to the harness for the fuel sender and the went to the filler neck. However it was removed due to recall I believe. I"ll look for that info and post the link.

mtajpa
07-29-2012, 08:55 PM
Check this post for info.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=10679&highlight=fire+hazard+ground

BallBushing
08-01-2012, 07:10 PM
mtajpa - Thanks for the info. Looks like I only have to plug the new harness in and not worry about the green wire. I'll try it this weekend and if it works will the cut off the green wire on the new harness. Also plan to look near the fuel filler to see if the old one is there and attached. If so, take that one out too.

BallBushing
08-03-2012, 08:58 PM
Hooked it up today. Works great, just wrapped up the green wire and put it to the side. Problem solved. Yeah

Rukowh
08-05-2012, 01:00 PM
The previous owner of my PS205 had this issue and the dealer could never find the problem. It Inermittenly lost contact. He sold the boat to me in pristine condition for cheap due to this gremlin. I replaced the fuel pump once and was about to replace it again when I ran across the real problem by accident. I took mine apart and re-bent the connectors and it works perfect now. The female connections were loose in the fitting. I had the same issue with my tach. I bet a lot of good fuel pumps get the blame for this bad connection.

93Prostar190
08-05-2012, 06:11 PM
We had the same thing happen on my buddy's X2, we checked the relay and saw melting plastic from the resistance of the bad connection.

BMDWillyZ
08-13-2012, 03:19 PM
I had this connector problem that you all have had. Mine was the black wire was kinked so bad that the wires had broken inside the black wire jacket. I think that I have found a replacement connector from AutoZone. The part number is Airtex WH3009. I was looking on Carters website and had stumbled over a "Fuel Tech Solution" that they had posted. Here is the link

http://www.carterfueldelivery.com/fuelpumps/_pdfs/training/fts4.pdf

The Carter 888-601 (upgraded module connector) looks like the one that is on my 2000 ProStar 195. I did a serch for this connector on Google and found that this connector is for a 2001-2003 Chevy Tahoe fuel pump wiring harness. I used this information on AutoZone's website and got the Airtex WH3009 part number.

I don't know if this will work but if it does, it is $12.99 and is stock at the AutoZone that is in town that I live in.

-BZ

Retoxtony
04-23-2013, 01:46 AM
Sorry to bring back such an old thread, but would anyone here happen to know the Mastercraft part number for the fuel pump wiring harness that is shown in this thread? The parts guy at the dealer i use is having a tough time finding it.

GoneBoatN
04-23-2013, 12:44 PM
I had to have my fuel pump wiring harness replace last year. It was on on 2010 X-15 with a MCX. The work order shows parts 508436 "Fuel Pump Harness" and 508871 "Fuel Harness Pigta" on the repair bill. Using Google I found them at http://www.charlotteskiboats.com/mastercraft_parts.cfm. Hope this helps.

Retoxtony
04-23-2013, 03:04 PM
I had to have my fuel pump wiring harness replace last year. It was on on 2010 X-15 with a MCX. The work order shows parts 508436 "Fuel Pump Harness" and 508871 "Fuel Harness Pigta" on the repair bill. Using Google I found them at http://www.charlotteskiboats.com/mastercraft_parts.cfm. Hope this helps.

Was your harness and plug the same as the ones pictures in this thread? I was thinking that it is probably different than mine since my boat is a 99.

GoneBoatN
04-23-2013, 05:08 PM
Was your harness and plug the same as the ones pictures in this thread? I was thinking that it is probably different than mine since my boat is a 99.

Here are some pictures so you can judge. The last picture, is the coil of conduit in which the green wire (ground) is wrapped in. It appears in the second to last picture off to the left when you can see only a portion of that coil. My green wire runs off somewhere else in the boat. But the other wires (grey and black) run to that little connector you also see in the second to last picture. We have now reached the limit of my knowledge in this area. ;)

Retoxtony
04-23-2013, 06:25 PM
That's the connector alright. It's strange that the parts guy I talked to said he couldn't track down a part for me. I even sent him pictures.

Thanks for the help, that's exactly what I needed.

BallBushing
04-23-2013, 07:19 PM
Rex, See you had the problem back when I did. Rambo Marine knew exactly what I needed. After the new harness was installed worked great all summer. The green wire is not used, just tape up and set aside.

GoneBoatN
04-23-2013, 07:28 PM
That's the connector alright. It's strange that the parts guy I talked to said he couldn't track down a part for me. I even sent him pictures.

Thanks for the help, that's exactly what I needed.

Well, there may be different connectors on the other end for different years/models. But sounds like you might just be splicing it in anyways.