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davomaddo
07-10-2012, 05:00 PM
X-15 2009. I need to change my prop for the first time. SkiDim said I had a splinned prop and I didn't need to order a prop puller. Does anyone have instuctions on how to change a splined prop? Is it as simple as removing the cotter pin, bult, and swapping out the prop?

If so, let me know. If there is anything more to it, I would greatly appreciate some tips or instructions.

FYI - I tried to search for this, but couldn't find relavent info.

ttu
07-10-2012, 05:05 PM
don't take the nut all the way off. otherwise once you break it free it will come flying down the shaft!!!

Scott
07-10-2012, 05:30 PM
you can tap on the prop to loosen it.. rubber mallet, at the rear ,base of the prop.. not the blades, but i fig you knew that..:D

davomaddo
07-10-2012, 05:54 PM
Thanks - sounds pretty simple. When I put it back on, do I have to tap it back in there with a mallet or just push it on there and tighten the nut up?

Scott
07-10-2012, 07:02 PM
push it on and snug the nut..;)

O2BESOHUGE
07-12-2012, 02:53 PM
Use Anti Sieze On The Shaft When It Goes Back On! Makes It Easier For Ext Time Coming Off!

davomaddo
07-13-2012, 04:08 PM
Thanks for the help.
I replaced the prop on Wednesday. It took less than 10 minutes and was about the easiest boat maintainance thing I have done. I guess I over analyzed it. I just wanted to have my stuff all together to minimize down time.

In case someone searches this topic in the future here is my experience on replacing a Splined Prop - 2009 MX X-15
Tools - large crescent wrench, needle nose plyers, 3 ft 2x4, rubber mallet (may not need)
1. Take out cotter pin with needle nose plyers
2. Use 2x4 to wedge between prop to stop it from spinning
3. Use crescent wrench to unscrew bolt almost all the way off
4. Pull on prop to dislodge it. I was able to just pull it with my hands. Some may need a rubber mallet. A prop pluller most likely won't be needed with a splined prop. As I said, I didn't even have to use the hammer - I just pulled it off with my hands with out much effort required.
5. Remove the nut
6. Remove old prop
7. Put new prop on
8. Scew bolt on tight
9. Put the cotter pin back in

FYI - my brand new prop didn't look perfect when I got it. Some of the machined grooves were sanded off. I guess this is normal and done when they balance the prop. I posted a pic on another post.

SpartanNate
07-21-2016, 09:13 AM
I'm getting ready for a week long trip and already have a spare prop and the Acme weekend saver kit (puller, pliers, wrench, spare pin, etc.), but I'm trying to round out my kit and it seems like the one thing I need is the wood block to keep the shaft from spinning when loosening and tightening the prop shaft nut.

In my head, I was thinking of cutting a small 2x4 and wrapping it in carpet so I could wedge it between the prop and the hull, but I watched this video and see that when done on the trailer, it is probably better (or easier) to wedge it between the prop and ground.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8enody46-xg

My trailer does not have the center support running to the prop guard cage (if that's what you call it), so I can't stick it there - I would need to put it straight to the ground. If I had to guess, he has about a 2 foot or maybe 20" length of 2x4 in this video.

What if I want to change it from a boat lift? There would be no ground to wedge against, so that's why I'm thinking a carpeted piece of 2x4 (basically like a mini-bunk) to wedge somewhere against the hull. Has anybody done this? If so, any thoughts on length of the 2x4 (my boat is in storage right now, so won't have access to it for a couple of days)? ...or is this a terrible idea?

JohnE
07-21-2016, 09:27 AM
I've never wedged a 2x against the hull. But I'll add that some people here have had to use a small propane torch to heat the hub of the prop to remove. I had trouble removing on once and with a little heat from the torch combined with the prop puller it cam flying off. (As mentioned, don't remove the nut entirely until it pops free)

SpartanNate
07-21-2016, 10:09 AM
I've never wedged a 2x against the hull. But I'll add that some people here have had to use a small propane torch to heat the hub of the prop to remove. I had trouble removing on once and with a little heat from the torch combined with the prop puller it cam flying off. (As mentioned, don't remove the nut entirely until it pops free)

Thanks for that advice! Hopefully the puller is enough, but I guess I'll know what to do it if comes to that.

I'm still concerned with keeping the shaft from spinning while I try to loosen the nut initially. Still interested to see what others do for their wood block (when needed).