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View Full Version : I Shouldn't Admit This (or, How Was This Even Runnig?)


deminimis
07-07-2012, 01:00 AM
Two years of engine mechanics back in the day. Currently building and maintaining race bikes, restoring vehicles, etc., etc. etc. as hobbies. For reasons that escape me, I have ignored the ignition system on my X-Star (I change oil and fluids obsessively, etc.). Can't believe what I discovered. First clue was my coil wire was somewhat loose on the cap and the cap's coil electrode (outside) was heavily corroded. Pulled the cap and didn't find nice, clean aluminum electrodes, but fuzzy monstrosities that once resembled the inserts. Rotor was just as neglected. I have never, and I mean never, seen such a pitiful cap and rotor in all my years. Well, now has a nice Accel cap and rotor (because I like brass inserts, that's why). I am ashamed and given the condition of this cap and rotor, I'm damn lucky I didn't find myself dead in the water.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2Stotuou2bw/T_evk66kw_I/AAAAAAAACVc/YSkhZby0r8Q/s640/IMG_20120706_203213.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O3zuB9khmuY/T_evu2wl0QI/AAAAAAAACVk/DSBIcc3A0XI/s640/IMG_20120706_203223.jpg

CruisinGA
07-07-2012, 01:21 AM
Wow... You are pretty lucky. Ive seen better cause problems.

Can anyone explain to me why the LTR has distributorless ignition and the MCX still has a distributor?

Philscbx
07-07-2012, 05:00 AM
I've seen much worse - as long as there are no high voltage arcing in the plastic - it would still work.
I blew the image up double - the little bit of fuzz - won't block 45,000 volts.
I wouldn't throw it away - someone just might need one that has no cracks on a Sunday.

Corrosion can be prevented with a sprayed in coating of high grade silicone and let the solvent flash off before using.
Same with all the ends & boots of spark plug wires.
Dipping the ends into teflon grease before inserting wires back into cap - is major win.

Jerseydave
07-07-2012, 05:26 PM
how many hours on it? I better go check mine.

As said before, at least you have no carbon tracks inside the cap.

JimN
07-07-2012, 07:35 PM
Two years of engine mechanics back in the day. Currently building and maintaining race bikes, restoring vehicles, etc., etc. etc. as hobbies. For reasons that escape me, I have ignored the ignition system on my X-Star (I change oil and fluids obsessively, etc.). Can't believe what I discovered. First clue was my coil wire was somewhat loose on the cap and the cap's coil electrode (outside) was heavily corroded. Pulled the cap and didn't find nice, clean aluminum electrodes, but fuzzy monstrosities that once resembled the inserts. Rotor was just as neglected. I have never, and I mean never, seen such a pitiful cap and rotor in all my years. Well, now has a nice Accel cap and rotor (because I like brass inserts, that's why). I am ashamed and given the condition of this cap and rotor, I'm damn lucky I didn't find myself dead in the water.


I'm not a fan of the aluminum inserts, either. I use the Borg Warner Gold series caps and rotors- they have a lifetime warranty, too.

deminimis
07-08-2012, 12:54 AM
Dave, 400+. Don't know if that was orig, but very well may have been.

JDC
07-08-2012, 08:15 PM
That cap/rotor was due for replacement, but it wasn't a no start waiting to happen. GM took care of their weak link rotor years ago. Unless you ran into carbon tracking as others have mentioned, you'd be ok. Even with that, you'd have a rough idle or something long before a no start. The crusties around the bottom edge of the cap however, show it's not been as dry as a cap & rotor would like to be.

The loose coil wire you found is from arching between the connection inside the boot and the cap tip it snaps on to. Silicone dialectic grease will prevent that (or dramatically slow it down) in the future. Some new wire sets even come with dialectic silicone already inside the boot ends (cap and plug ends). Smear silicone grease on the distributor cap tips before putting the wires on.