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treptowr
07-03-2012, 03:55 PM
I still have this intermittent starting problem with my boat. Boat turns over, sounds like it is started for a couple seconds, then dies. Not sure if I can say it is heat related or not because it has been so infrequent, but it seems to happen only after we have been on the water for a half hour or so?

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=42725

Just got back from a camping trip where we put 10 hours on the boat and this happened 3 times. Each time, opening the throttle and cranking got the boat to start. IAC was mentioned as a possiblity, but this seems to be working in the driveway. I haven't been able to check the IAC when the no start issue was happening, so I suppose the IAC could be intermittent?? After doing some more reading/research, I was wondering if the ECT could be causing this too? Sending wrong info to the ECM?? Was thinking of just picking one up (ECT) and replacing it as it is so inexpensive. The IAC is about $180 at skidim and I get the impression that it is rare for these to fail. Once the boat starts, idles great, runs great, and no other issues I am aware of. I think I can pick this ECT sensor up at an auto parts store as there is no local dealer. I have the day off tomorrow to spend on the water and I want to dive into this problem and get it figured out before it gets worse. Thanks.

JimN
07-03-2012, 04:01 PM
I still have this intermittent starting problem with my boat. Boat turns over, sounds like it is started for a couple seconds, then dies. Not sure if I can say it is heat related or not because it has been so infrequent, but it seems to happen only after we have been on the water for a half hour or so?

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=42725

Just got back from a camping trip where we put 10 hours on the boat and this happened 3 times. Each time, opening the throttle and cranking got the boat to start. IAC was mentioned as a possiblity, but this seems to be working in the driveway. I haven't been able to check the IAC when the no start issue was happening, so I suppose the IAC could be intermittent?? After doing some more reading/research, I was wondering if the ECT could be causing this too? Sending wrong info to the ECM?? Was thinking of just picking one up (ECT) and replacing it as it is so inexpensive. The IAC is about $180 at skidim and I get the impression that it is rare for these to fail. Once the boat starts, idles great, runs great, and no other issues I am aware of. I think I can pick this ECT sensor up at an auto parts store as there is no local dealer. I have the day off tomorrow to spend on the water and I want to dive into this problem and get it figured out before it gets worse. Thanks.

YOU DON"T NEED TO BUY SENSORS, IAC AND MOST OTHER ENGINE PARTS FROM SKI-DIM. They're GM parts.

Have you had this engine scanned for codes? If not, do it. The sensors are used to meet emissions standards but they also eliminate most guesswork and you're guessing.

If you want to see if it's heat-related, try it with the engine cover closed, get it to start and next time you shut it down, leave the engine cover open. If it starts when the cover is open, it's time (past time, really) to check the ECT.

treptowr
07-03-2012, 05:43 PM
Jim, can/will a place like Autozone be able to scan it for codes? What type of scanner, or will they know this? OBD1? Also, I wish the problem was more frequent. I would say maybe once out of every 20+ times I try to start the boat it won't start until I open the throttle a little, then it fires right up and runs great. If I did open the engine cover and not open up the throttle to get it started, what would be a reasonable amount of time to expect things to cool down and try again? 5 minutes, 30 minutes? Also, I'm assuming it's entirely possible there are no codes, but obviously I still have a problem here.

I know I have a GM 5.7 L TBI engine and have bought a couple parts from autozone before. They always ask me what year vehicle, make, model, etc. When I tell them it's a 2002 Mastercraft boat with a gm 5.7 L, they seem leary to help me out. Is there a specific make, model, year GM that has this same motor that I could reference for parts. I thought I read a 1998 GMC Yukon has the same engine. I'm sure there are multiple vehicles as this is a popular GM engine.

2002 X-star 310HP Predator TBI

JimN
07-03-2012, 05:52 PM
Jim, can/will a place like Autozone be able to scan it for codes? What type of scanner, or will they know this? OBD1? Also, I wish the problem was more frequent. I would say maybe once out of every 20+ times I try to start the boat it won't start until I open the throttle a little, then it fires right up and runs great. If I did open the engine cover and not open up the throttle to get it started, what would be a reasonable amount of time to expect things to cool down and try again? 5 minutes, 30 minutes? Also, I'm assuming it's entirely possible there are no codes, but obviously I still have a problem here.

I know I have a GM 5.7 L TBI engine and have bought a couple parts from autozone before. They always ask me what year vehicle, make, model, etc. When I tell them it's a 2002 Mastercraft boat with a gm 5.7 L, they seem leary to help me out. Is there a specific make, model, year GM that has this same motor that I could reference for parts. I thought I read a 1998 GMC Yukon has the same engine. I'm sure there are multiple vehicles as this is a popular GM engine.

2002 X-star 310HP Predator TBI

It's a generic GM scan tool but you'll have to ask if it will work for OBDI, not OBDII. You could also ask people you know- someone is bound to have one they don't need/can't use because the new cars use the newer system.

Have you ever read any posts here that refer to using a paper clip to read codes? It has been mentioned many, many times.

Now that you posted that it's 1 in 20 times, which you should have done at the outset, I have to say that it's almost impossible to know why it's happening.

treptowr
07-03-2012, 05:58 PM
I thought maybe I mentioned it in my post from last summer/fall? But maybe not? Doesn't sound really encouraging about getting it solved :) I did read the paper clip method of pulling codes. I may do that if Autozone can scan it for me.

JimN
07-03-2012, 06:04 PM
I thought maybe I mentioned it in my post from last summer/fall? But maybe not? Doesn't sound really encouraging about getting it solved :) I did read the paper clip method of pulling codes. I may do that if Autozone can scan it for me.

If you use the paper clip, you don't need AutoZone to scan it.

treptowr
07-03-2012, 11:30 PM
I meant to say if autozone can't....which they said tonight when I stopped in that they can't because they don't have that older scanner.

treptowr
07-03-2012, 11:37 PM
Also, the guy/kid at autozone said I wouldn't have an engine code if my check engine light isn't on....which mine isn't.

treptowr
07-04-2012, 12:33 AM
I just used a paper clip and no codes were showing up. Just kept repeating "12".

JimN
07-04-2012, 10:06 AM
So, I guess the thing to do is make sure you have a way to check fuel pressure and presence of spark when you go out, so you can find out what's not happening. If you don't have fuel, it could be heat-related (it would go into RPM reduction mode by toggling the injectors), a flaky ground at the back of the engine, maybe a bad connection at the relay. If you don't have spark, it could be a bad IC module, bad plug/coil wire, etc. Next time, wiggle the wires at the rear of the engine and see if it fires up.

Jason.H.
07-04-2012, 12:48 PM
Sound like if no faults are present your best bet would be to deal with it for a little while and see if the condition gets worse or happens more frequently so you can actually diagnose it when the problem is happening. If it were the ect sensor going bad it fails to -40 degrees F so it would idle really rough and you would smell it running very rich. Maybe even have some black smoke coming from exhaust. I know in the trucks anyways this engine was bad for intake manifolds leaking coolant externally and in some cases into intake. Could also be build up on back of throttle body plate blocking air passages to the IACV, get some top engine cleaner and clean out the throttle body the best you can. There is also a little screen filter in the IACV it could be getting clogged up. Possibilities are endless.

treptowr
07-04-2012, 02:46 PM
for what it's worth, 3 years ago a new IC module installed, distributor cap and rotor, plugs, and Taylor plug wires. Less than 100 hours on it since. Heading out in a bit. Got my fuel pressure gauge with. What's easiest way to check for spark? Still seems odd that it starts immediately when I open throttle. I'll be watching the iac valve closely if I can get a no start on the water today. thanks.

treptowr
07-04-2012, 11:26 PM
Boat ran and started fine today. Didn't have any starting issues. Figures, I had equipment ready and time to check things out. Will wait and see I guess. Also, Last year i started running 91 octane because there is no ethanol in it, instead of the 89. Can't imagine that would have anything to do with it? Can't remember exactly when I started doing that last year? My father in law suggested it.

JimN
07-05-2012, 12:23 AM
Boat ran and started fine today. Didn't have any starting issues. Figures, I had equipment ready and time to check things out. Will wait and see I guess. Also, Last year i started running 91 octane because there is no ethanol in it, instead of the 89. Can't imagine that would have anything to do with it? Can't remember exactly when I started doing that last year? My father in law suggested it.

Yeah- that's how it works, like going to a Dr. with a problem that miraculously disappears about the time you get there.

treptowr
07-05-2012, 11:31 AM
looking through some other similar issues/problems through here, I wonder if the MAP sensor could be a culprit? Is there a way to check this? Or would there definately be code if the MAP sensor was bad?

JimN
07-05-2012, 11:43 AM
looking through some other similar issues/problems through here, I wonder if the MAP sensor could be a culprit? Is there a way to check this? Or would there definately be code if the MAP sensor was bad?

It would have stored a code, but a multi-meter can be used.

treptowr
07-09-2012, 10:55 AM
Just an update....3 more days of trouble free riding. Started fine under all circumstances. Maybe I had some bad gas in the tank? I did put a can of sea foam in about a week ago and haven't had a starting issue since. Hoping that's all it is.

Yellow X9
07-09-2012, 11:31 AM
HAve a friend with an X2- his was doing something last Weds, simular to yours- turn out it was the fuel pump- cross referenced it at Auto Zone- $ 80.00 later an 30 mins- back in the water.

Might check your fuel pump as someone mentioned or fuel pressure

ahhudgins
07-09-2012, 01:10 PM
HAve a friend with an X2- his was doing something last Weds, simular to yours- turn out it was the fuel pump- cross referenced it at Auto Zone- $ 80.00 later an 30 mins- back in the water.

Might check your fuel pump as someone mentioned or fuel pressure

My 95 TBI did the exact same thing to me this past weekend but it only happened twice in three days. Our temps were right at 100 and where we ski some times we won't see another boat for an hour. I left it running every time we went out after that. Each time I got back to the dock and shut it off it would restart perfectly or hesitate just a little when the key returned to the RUN position.

I'm going to clean the IAC and replace my fuel pump just to be safe. My fuel line has no schrader valve to test pressure.