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IdahoSnake
07-01-2012, 12:31 PM
I am at a total loss as to where water could be coming from. Run the boat for 30 min and there is about 3 inches of water in the hull. Saw a leak in a hose and replaced is. There was also a leak in the circular water pump and replaced that. Filled it up in the driveway and no water coming out. Put it back in and put it in drive and watched the shaft seal did not see any water coming in but again after 30 min of cruising had 2 inches or so. No in and out of the boat. 2000 205 with the 330hp. I am at a total loss here. Anything else I should check? I do not have a fake lake and am about 10 miles from closest water. Have to have this fixed by next weekend. Please help!:confused:

Lumbergh
07-01-2012, 12:44 PM
Could be a bad exhaust flange, mine was seeping water into bilge and when I pulled the hoses and looked in hull, one looked like this:

http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr66/Lumbergh556/DSC00963800x600.jpg

Just an idea, they are cheap for your boat, mine of course was a somewhat pricy fix as the poly 3" are NLA from MC.

http://www.waterskis.com/250022-p/exhaust_flange_3.5_inch_79-92.htm

Rossterman
07-01-2012, 12:44 PM
Probably need to get a fake a lake and run it in the trailer to pinpoint it. Does it accumulate water when it sits in the water without running

Matt L.
07-01-2012, 12:45 PM
I'd say it is the shaft seal leaking. likely need to repack and set the gland nut to the proper drip rate. You may just need to snug it down a bit to get the packing to bite back down and seal it up.

You should be able to see it withe the engine compartment open, careful to remove all ropes and little ones from the area while the engine is running.

Later,

Matt

IdahoSnake
07-01-2012, 12:47 PM
Just went out to check it again. There is a very slow drip coming out of where the shaft comes out of the hull. Sound like the packing?

Lumbergh
07-01-2012, 12:52 PM
FYI:

You don't need a fake a lake. Home depot = 5 gallon bucket and 3-4 feet of 1.25" poly hose and run in driveway.

IdahoSnake
07-03-2012, 09:33 AM
Well took it out again last night. Not the packing but both of the silent masters are leaking. They leak when stopped and anything past idle. Ugh. Going to see what a fiber glass guy would charge here for a repair.

Lumbergh
07-03-2012, 11:33 AM
Well took it out again last night. Not the packing but both of the silent masters are leaking. They leak when stopped and anything past idle. Ugh. Going to see what a fiber glass guy would charge here for a repair.

Why not remove them and DIY? Some resin and fiber mat and you are done. Doesn't have to be pretty.

8 hose clamps and the mufflers are out.

Would not pay for that myself. TT can help you along!

IdahoSnake
07-03-2012, 11:40 AM
Okay I will try this afternoon. A few questions, is there a lot of compression in the tubes and just any kind of repair kit will work?
I see that it is easy to remove but my last fiberglass repair job on a crotch rocket was horrible at best. Thanks.

IdahoSnake
07-03-2012, 11:42 AM
I also want to check the flanges when I have it apart. Did you have to remove the gas tank to get there? Thanks for the help Lumbergh I do appreciate it.

silverblueBP
07-03-2012, 12:37 PM
I finally got around to prepping the boat this year and noticed that the port side muffler has a small leak. I have some FG and will do the repair tomorrow morning. It'll be interesting to see if it fixes the problem.

IdahoSnake
07-03-2012, 12:51 PM
I will be giving it a go this afternoon. Hoping to be on the water tomorrow morning for a pull. Hope it holds up. From what I can tell I have a leak on both mufflers. One is a crack about 4 inches on the seam and the other is on the backside and I have no idea how bad it is. I think that I am going to do all the seams to hopfully not have this problem again.

gweaver
07-03-2012, 01:09 PM
I know it's probably not ideal, but I had a small leak in one of my mufflers. I used blue hi-temp silicone to seal it. Holding fine 8 months later. Depending on where your leaks are or how big they are, that may not be a good idea, but when I looked at the mufflers on my 88, it looked like the are just PVC with ends siliconed on. I figure if it's good enough for the factory, it's good enough for me.
G

Lumbergh
07-03-2012, 02:00 PM
No need to pull fuel tank to inspect flanges. Just remove floor panel and aft hoses.

It is a little tight, lay down with a shop light and I had to use a 1/4" drive socket to remove aft clamps. Not enough room for nut driver I normally use.

Simple work. Hope your flanges are good, the correct 3" / 8 hole poly flanges are NLA. I had to use (expensive) SS 8 hole flanges. Looks cool though, I suppose.

You can buy 3" poly flanges from skidim, but they have 6 holes and will not mate up 100% like factory.

The flanges come off by removing the 8 large SS screws. There will be some (probably dried out) silicon type gasket material underneath that needs to be scraped off prior to installing/reinstalling flanges.

IdahoSnake
07-04-2012, 11:50 AM
Finished last night. It looks really bad but it could stop a bullet. Will be putting the mufflers back on today and going to the lake tonight. I would post photos but really not proud of my work...at all. Thanks for the help.

cptskier15
07-19-2012, 07:06 PM
We had a massive backfire in our '83 S&S and it blew whole chunks of wooden muffler out the back. A whole pile of 2 part epoxy later and it fixed the thumb size hole rather well... Think that other one may have a smaller crack as also get a small amount of water/fumes in bilges.