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View Full Version : How to Treat an Engine After 9 Years of Storage


j.robinson389
06-28-2012, 10:03 AM
Please don't hang me for asking about this, but I know there are a lot of good engine guys on this forum and I was hoping to get some help.

I am purchasing a new to me boat that unfortunately is not a MasterCraft, but it was such a good deal I could not pass on it.

The boat is a '93 w/ a Mercruiser Comp Ski 350 Carb engine on it. 209hrs and the boat is in pristine condition. The only issues the boat may have is from the fact that is has sat in storage (dry barn) for 8+ years. When it was put away the motor was fogged with 16 oz of fogging oil and winterized properly with antifreeze.

My question/My plan please give me your opinions

I plan to change the oil, drain the gas tank, and remove all spark plugs and add a little ATF to each cylinder and let it sit over night. Replace the impeller. Then the next day prime the oil pump and get oil to the top end with a drill attachment down in the distributor then crank the engine over by hand (re-intsalling distributor first) for several revolutions. Now I plan on re-installing the plugs and firing it up.

I am concerned about damaging the rings by passing them over cylinder wall rust (if there even is any) so what do you think of my plan? Are there better options (WD-40, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc..)than ATF to put in the cylinders? Something in an aerosol would be nice to get better coverage. Should I remove the valve cover to ensure oil is getting to the top end? Am I being too cautious?

Also on this first oil change, should I use the 40w that it calls for or something lighter for the first couple hours I run it?

Let me know what you think.
-Jake

thatsmrmastercraft
06-28-2012, 10:19 AM
The only other thing I would do would be to fill the engine completely (to the top of the valve cover) with engine oil for a week or two. Then drain it down to the correct amount of oil before proceeding with your plan.

lhkrueger
06-28-2012, 10:36 AM
We just brought back to life a boat in storage for 15 years. You are on the right track however in changing the rear main seal we discovered that the oil pick-up was 80% clogged with sludge.

Lumbergh
06-28-2012, 11:16 AM
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr66/Lumbergh556/PicsOrItDidntHappen.jpg

j.robinson389
06-28-2012, 11:23 AM
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr66/Lumbergh556/PicsOrItDidntHappen.jpg


Haven't picked up the boat yet, but won't I get banned for posting pics of non MCs?

Lumbergh
06-28-2012, 11:32 AM
Just busting your bits, post away with any and all pics.

TT is inclusive.

(and welcome. you have come to the right place for all things MC. after all, they out up with my antics...)

blackcreek
06-29-2012, 08:35 AM
Your plan looks good to me. I would expect carb problems, either leaks, clogs from dried up gas, or blown power valve or secondary canister. I bought a 91 ski supreme with the merc bluewater ski engine and had to do a carb rebuild to clean out the gunk. I also changed the points out with a pertronix unit and had no problems with the boat over about three hundred hours of use.

j.robinson389
06-29-2012, 08:41 AM
I also changed the points out with a pertronix unit and had no problems with the boat over about three hundred hours of use.


So do you like the Pertronix? Is this the best option for electronic conversion? I hope to at least get it running on the points, but it looks like for less than $100 I can change to EI so that seems like a "no brainer"

oxberger
06-29-2012, 11:29 AM
Without hesitation, in addition to pulling the gas tank, draining and power washing the interior of it, all fuel lines, filters and pump would be pulled and cleaned or replaced along with a rebuild of the carb before even attempting to start it. What model, size, and brand boat?

j.robinson389
06-29-2012, 11:37 AM
I know its the wrong forum but it's a '93 Malibu Sunsetter Euro F3. If I'm allowed I'll post pics after I pick it up tomorrow. It is nice to see a boat that has been cared for and it's proof as to how long a boat can look "like new" when cared for properly.

blackcreek
06-29-2012, 12:01 PM
So do you like the Pertronix? Is this the best option for electronic conversion? I hope to at least get it running on the points, but it looks like for less than $100 I can change to EI so that seems like a "no brainer"

I think I paid around 100- bucks for the pertronix 10 years ago. Best 100 bucks I ever spent on the boat. You just pop the top off the distributor and pull the points plate out and replace with the electronic unit, set the timing and no more worries. The boat ran much better all over the power band and was much easier to start. Napa had the carb rebuild kit for around 40 bucks if I remember correctly. The carb had a serial number tag on it that the napa guy cross referenced for the kit. My carb was a four barrel rochester with vacuum secondaries I am assuming yours would be the same. The carb kit came with everything including the float height adjustment specs and a little set of cards to set the float height. Couple of cans of spray carb cleaner with the little red extender hoses worked great to blow all the crud out of the small passages and jets. I followed that up with an air gun off my compressor. The boat ran great the entire time I had it, I sold it to upgrade to my current 205 prostar.