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View Full Version : 1991 Prostar starting question help please!


Appling77
06-27-2012, 12:14 AM
I got to the lake the boat started right up ran fine for 10 miles or so then we stop to swim and about 20 mins later it would not start. It turns over but it seems that it's not turning over fast enough to fire. I tested the batt it was 12.xxx volts. I'm getting fuel in the carb and I'm getting spark. The previous owner said the starter was rebuilt last year. Someone told me it could be the ignition, does that sound right? I got towed in and went to get a batt but found out it was fine. I got back to the slip and hooked the batt up and it still would not start. Then I asked a guy next to us to help and it turned over and started right up then I turned it off and about 10 mins later it would not start again. Thanks for any help here!

petermegan
06-27-2012, 05:36 AM
It could be that your distributor is loose and shifted. If you have way too much advance it will not be happy to start as you describe. Maybe try a timing light to check timing.

petermegan
06-27-2012, 10:19 AM
Thinking more about your problem and.............I experienced a strange phenomena with one of my old inboards with a 350 chev. The distributor had too much end float and the gears could move up and down changing the timing. One minute it would start fine and run ok, the next it would have too much advance and didn't want to turn over. Just something to look at, or your starter isn't as great as you think it is??

Appling77
06-27-2012, 10:42 AM
Thanks...What's the best way to test this stuff to isolate the problem? I'm leaning towards starter myself but I don't just want run out and put one in.

JimN
06-27-2012, 10:55 AM
I got to the lake the boat started right up ran fine for 10 miles or so then we stop to swim and about 20 mins later it would not start. It turns over but it seems that it's not turning over fast enough to fire. I tested the batt it was 12.xxx volts. I'm getting fuel in the carb and I'm getting spark. The previous owner said the starter was rebuilt last year. Someone told me it could be the ignition, does that sound right? I got towed in and went to get a batt but found out it was fine. I got back to the slip and hooked the batt up and it still would not start. Then I asked a guy next to us to help and it turned over and started right up then I turned it off and about 10 mins later it would not start again. Thanks for any help here!

Run it to normal operating temperature and return to the dock before shutting it off. Pull the flame arrestor and look to see if the carb is dripping gas. If it is, the motor will be harder to crank and the fuel:air ratio will be wrong at that time. It can wear down the starter if you crank for too long, too. That not only weakens the starter, it also depletes the battery a lot faster, making it less able to deliver high cranking current at the normal voltage because the higher demand will cause the voltage to drop.

As mentioned, verify the timing. Clean the battery terminals and cable ends. Make sure the ground on the engine is clean and tight, not corroded and the jacket isn't splitting.

jay
06-27-2012, 11:34 AM
Thanks...What's the best way to test this stuff to isolate the problem? I'm leaning towards starter myself but I don't just want run out and put one in.

First thing is to check TT and you are doing that, so you are on the right track to resolution. Is that the 260hp 351W motor? I think that was used in '91. I am basing the remainder of this post on you having a carbureted Windsor engine, so hopefully it is helpful if nothing more than just getting a plan together.


1. Looking at starting system:
If it is turning over, it sounds like the refurbished starter and / or battery may just be a little weak. How slow is slow is the more appropriate question? Those engines idle at about 600-700 rpm, I believe - my GT40 does, so my possibly flawed logic says starting shouldn't require much more than the torque needed to turn it over.
Q: This may be a dumb question, but is the starter marinized?
That is a component that is definitely different from automotive grade.


2. Looking at ignition system:
I would personally start with the distributor cap, points (or stator if electric ignition), rotor, and possibly coil. $ (ching). I believe ignitions were electric, (pointless magnetic stator ignition is built into the top of the distributor) by 91. Correction here is appreciated if I am incorrect.

Next would be the distributor timing (as mentioned earlier, a timing light is required - you may want to solicit help if it is the first time using one). If the distributor needs replacement, you are looking at $$$ for a complete unit.


Check SkiDIM for parts, but call and talk to Richard before you order anything. He knows these engines pretty dang well (better than me!) and has saved me from replacing stuff unnecessarily.
http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1114

This may or may not be helpful:
http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2147033/and-now-a-real-puzzler-351-windsor-electrical-issue

jay
06-27-2012, 11:36 AM
Run it to normal operating temperature and return to the dock before shutting it off. Pull the flame arrestor and look to see if the carb is dripping gas. If it is, the motor will be harder to crank and the fuel:air ratio will be wrong at that time. It can wear down the starter if you crank for too long, too. That not only weakens the starter, it also depletes the battery a lot faster, making it less able to deliver high cranking current at the normal voltage because the higher demand will cause the voltage to drop.

As mentioned, verify the timing. Clean the battery terminals and cable ends. Make sure the ground on the engine is clean and tight, not corroded and the jacket isn't splitting.

GOOD STUFF!

Appling77
06-27-2012, 11:43 AM
Thanks...Now someone told me it could be the fuel pump. Idk

jay
06-27-2012, 11:58 AM
Thanks...Now someone told me it could be the fuel pump. Idk

Possible, but a quick shot of starting fluid can easily test that. If it starts and runs for ~10-15 seconds then it could be.

Appling77
06-27-2012, 12:04 PM
Spray it in the carb right?

Appling77
06-27-2012, 12:05 PM
Or on the filter on the carb

jay
06-27-2012, 04:09 PM
Spray it in the carb right?

Yes, that is correct. Remove the spark arrestor (looks like an air filter), administer about a 1-second spray directly in the carb and crank before the starter fluid evaporates. It is easier to do if you are in the water and not messing with a perko flusher or fake a lake in addition to the carb...

Disclaimer: I may get some heat for advising this method... I am not saying this method is the safest or best way to test, being that the boat is in water, spark arrestor is off, and using ether! Sounds like a bad combo IF I were a safety engineer, but in a make it work situation that is what I will do every time.

Appling77
06-27-2012, 04:38 PM
Yea it's in the water in a slip. I can use wd40 right? I also found out that the fuel pump and alternator has not been changed out from the previous owner.

TRBenj
06-27-2012, 05:25 PM
Please do yourself a favor and follow Jim's advice before you do anything else. Spot on.

Appling77
06-27-2012, 11:09 PM
I went out there and it cranked right up ran good in the slip for 15mins. I turned it off then it would not restart. I tried the wd40 in the carb and that didn't work. It turns over but seems like it is draining and doesn't have enough to kick over. I tried my batt out of my jeep it took me about 40 mins to get it change it out etc. when I hooked up the new batt it didn't run the first time the second time it kicked off and ran. I turned it off and then it would not restart. It seems like 30 to 40 mins it will restart. The volt meter on the dash shows 10v. I'm not sure how accurate it is. Could it be the coil or plugs or ignition?

jay
06-28-2012, 09:48 AM
I went out there and it cranked right up ran good in the slip for 15mins. I turned it off then it would not restart. I tried the wd40 in the carb and that didn't work. It turns over but seems like it is draining and doesn't have enough to kick over. I tried my batt out of my jeep it took me about 40 mins to get it change it out etc. when I hooked up the new batt it didn't run the first time the second time it kicked off and ran. I turned it off and then it would not restart. It seems like 30 to 40 mins it will restart. The volt meter on the dash shows 10v. I'm not sure how accurate it is. Could it be the coil or plugs or ignition?

Please do yourself a favor and follow Jim's advice before you do anything else. Spot on.

TRBenj is correct...

It sounds like you can effectively repeat the "cold start, run until you kill it, no hot start, cools off, starts fine" procedure. Did you check the carb for a fule leak when you did all this? I think you can rule out starter, alt, & batt for now.

Your fuel pump shouldn't be bad either, the ones I have seen fail just flat out die. I am not sure how a mechanical fuel pump could be intermittantly working; I am also have not replaced one on a 351.

Double check the carb for leaks and ignition timing...

JimN
06-28-2012, 09:50 AM
I went out there and it cranked right up ran good in the slip for 15mins. I turned it off then it would not restart. I tried the wd40 in the carb and that didn't work. It turns over but seems like it is draining and doesn't have enough to kick over. I tried my batt out of my jeep it took me about 40 mins to get it change it out etc. when I hooked up the new batt it didn't run the first time the second time it kicked off and ran. I turned it off and then it would not restart. It seems like 30 to 40 mins it will restart. The volt meter on the dash shows 10v. I'm not sure how accurate it is. Could it be the coil or plugs or ignition?

Do you have a timing light? Next time it doesn't start, use that to find out if you have spark. If not, you'll need to find out why.

Did you clean and tighten the battery posts and cable ends? WD40 isn't really the best thing to use if you want to get an engine to start when you don't think it's getting gas. Use gas- a squirt bottle from mustard or something like that works well, but be safe- make sure you have a fire extinguisher close and keep the bottle away from the engine when you try to start it.

Use a multi-meter and measure the voltage at the battery posts (not the cable ends). Then, measure with the probes on the cable ends. If you see a difference, you need to fix it. Re-measure at the back of the gauge, using the meter. If you see more of a difference, you may have loose or corroded connections and if this is the case, the ignition system won't work properly.

How old are the cap/rotor, points, plugs and plug wires? If these are all older than about 5 years, at least inspect them. I have seen several bad coil wires on 351 engines- far more than any other. If you have one you can substitute for the original, try it and see if it's better.

Appling77
06-29-2012, 12:17 AM
well long story short is i spent all day out there messing with it. I deffinilty have a voltage drop when i turn the key over. i put the meter on the pos on the batt pin and the neg on the ignition pin behind the key ignition. i shows 12v untill i turn it over then it drops to .14 volts.
I tested the coill by placing the neg probe on the neg post on the batt and the pos on the pos on the coil. it showed 9.5 then when i turned the key it dropped into the 4's. so im ordering a starter, coil, key ignition, fuel pump and buy a new batt.

Appling77
06-29-2012, 12:18 AM
i may even change the batt cables and connectors even though they look fine

Appling77
06-29-2012, 12:26 AM
i also did the same test with the cylinoid and it showed 12 then when i went to crank it it drop to 8v

SkiDaddy
06-29-2012, 08:31 AM
This problem sounds so repeatable that I'm not convinced it is an electrical problem. Many times, when chasing electrical gremlins, the situation is difficult because the problem isn't so consistent. Yours seems pretty consistent with needing a period of time before a restart is possible. So that seems like to me either you need that period of time for either, something electrical to cool off (coil maybe?) or fuel to evaporate.

Since you haven't said that the boat dies while running, I'd eliminate the coil. So what could be happening that doesn't cause the boat to die while running, but prevents the engine from starting after a shutdown?

Just be a little careful of throwing parts and money into an electrical problem not fully defined.

Fuel dripping into the intake makes a lot of sense to me. Did you ever check that?

But as always, my $0.02 only..........

Best of luck to you!!!!!

JimN
06-29-2012, 09:15 AM
well long story short is i spent all day out there messing with it. I deffinilty have a voltage drop when i turn the key over. i put the meter on the pos on the batt pin and the neg on the ignition pin behind the key ignition. i shows 12v untill i turn it over then it drops to .14 volts.
I tested the coill by placing the neg probe on the neg post on the batt and the pos on the pos on the coil. it showed 9.5 then when i turned the key it dropped into the 4's. so im ordering a starter, coil, key ignition, fuel pump and buy a new batt.

First thing to do is take the starter in to have it tested. If the shop does auto electric rebuilding (which I would suggest), have it rebuilt to marine spec. That way, you don't need to worry about whether the starter is the right one.

Take the battery with you- the voltage dropping to almost nothing looks like it's toast and could be the whole problem- I have seen a couple of batteries that had the + terminal come out completely when I tried to take the cable off, yet the dome light came on that morning and it started the day before.

jay
06-29-2012, 09:58 AM
Wow - that is a surprise to me, but that isn't saying much...

Sounds like you are more than capable and on your way to nailing down the issue. Hopefully you don't have to unnecessarily replace too many components. A new battery and terminals are never a bad idea...

jay
06-29-2012, 10:07 AM
...Take the battery with you- the voltage dropping to almost nothing looks like it's toast and could be the whole problem- I have seen a couple of batteries that had the + terminal come out completely when I tried to take the cable off, yet the dome light came on that morning and it started the day before.

Very true...I removed my battery for the winter rest in late October last year in working order and with clean terminals on the boat side coated in light oil for corrosion inhibition.

Come mid April this year, I found both of those terminals completely corroded and they fell apart trying to remove the bolts for installation. 2 new HD semi truck terminals by Deka cost about $5 and work like a champ.

JimN
06-29-2012, 10:23 AM
Very true...I removed my battery for the winter rest in late October last year in working order and with clean terminals on the boat side coated in light oil for corrosion inhibition.

Come mid April this year, I found both of those terminals completely corroded and they fell apart trying to remove the bolts for installation. 2 new HD semi truck terminals by Deka cost about $5 and work like a champ.

In my case, it was a 2-1/2 year old side-terminal battery in my Chevy pickup. I was checking the cable to see if it was loose and when I tried to turn the cable, the cable AND the battery insert came right out.

Appling77
06-30-2012, 01:20 PM
Well after talking to the guys at skidim yesterday morning I ordered a coil, key ignition, and a breaker less ignition kit. I received the parts this morning! I'm working today but I'm going to go work on it first thing in the morning. I'm probably going to add a new batt and cables just to be safe. If this doesn't work I'll pull the starter and have it tested. Then after that I'll just have to wait three weeks for a pro to come look at it. I'm hoping this works my family is really on my *** about getting the boat running for the 4th. :)

Lumbergh
06-30-2012, 01:39 PM
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr66/Lumbergh556/jamiegum50.jpg

Philscbx
06-30-2012, 01:54 PM
Wow, talk about pressure stabbing at to fix an unknown.

On the Starter - I see it was stated it was rebuilt last yr.
Simple cleaning / lube - lets hope its one less item.
Any chance the starter was under water? Too bad the distance is factor, I'd join in.

Cranking - "It turns over but it seems that it's not turning over fast enough to fire.
I tested the batt it was 12.xxx volts."
"with the solenoid and it showed 12 then when i went to crank it it drop to 8v" -
This is not uncommon - I'd rather see drop to 10v. Possible Battery issue right here.

"I hooked up the new batt it didn't run the first time the second time it kicked off and ran.
I turned it off and then it would not restart.
It seems like 30 to 40 mins it will restart.
The volt meter on the dash shows 10v."
Not quite sure at what state this was at - running or just the key on- showing 10v.

The battery showing 12 volts is deceiving - when problems exist.
It may have a bad cell or two _ Or be in low state of charge.
The chargers I use show both voltage & percentage of charge -
by Schumacher SC-6500A, from 2 - 65 amps model.

*** Relay's - main relay's before the starter? Typically on Ford Starter systems.
Low voltage / high amp (600) likes to wreck havoc with relay's over heating the internal contact to weld mode - damages it - then difficult making repeated contact difficult.
The Starter's solenoid / relay could be in this state.

With the Distributor cap off - rotor out of the way - run some 400 - 600 wet or dry paper between the points contacts in case there is insulating corrosion present.
I have cured this before when all other cures failed by others to get them going.
Simply let the tension of the points squeeze on the sandpaper pulling paper back & forth.
Fold a piece 1/4" wide x 2" long.
Do not use a file - the points contact will not conform.

High Voltage Tracking - in the underside of distributor cap - Inspect this closely.
From coil wire center point out to perimeter.
Usually this will cause misfire - hard cranking possible from altering the timing to severe advance.

In very rare cases - I've only had one bad condenser out of 100's.
They are easy to test on the bench w/meter -
simply switch the meter leads back & forth on condenser will make the meter show single pulse forward or backward.
The Meter in Ohm mode uses it's internal battery to charge the condenser forward or reverse.

CARB - It seems like 30 to 40 mins it will restart.
Internal leaking/flooding - dripping in excess fuel when engine off might be an issue.
It was mentioned spraying in WD with no response - it may have already been slightly flooded.
Waiting - then starting later seems to fit here.
"Pull the flame arrestor and look to see if the carb is dripping gas - as jay (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/member.php?u=27928) & JimN Said."
Could pull a random spark plug to verify.

This is True -
"throwing parts and money into an electrical problem not fully defined" - As SkiDaddy said.
Hopefully it's not too hot to work on.

mikeg205
06-30-2012, 01:55 PM
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr66/Lumbergh556/jamiegum50.jpg

^^++1

Brandit
06-30-2012, 08:14 PM
Just been following this and it all sounds interesting. So I will put in my 2 cents which may have no bearing on this :)

I have had the same issues you have been dealing with but with a car. I can't tell you how many things I replaced before I found out that it was just my positive battery cable. Some battery cables have a fuseable link. When the cable is cold it will start. When it heats up and the copper expands the fuseable link doesnt allow enough juice to flow therefore not allowing vehicle or boat to start.

I bought a new cable and I haven't hade a problem since.

Good luck.

Appling77
07-01-2012, 12:26 AM
WHOOHOOO! Fixed!!

I put a new batt, new cables and a new key ignition. It fired up hard and strong. I could even turn it off and back on. I do however think there is still a problem with something draining voltage. The volt Meter showed 11 on the dash. When I turn the nav lights on the volts drop way down. But it still cranks hot and cold starts. When I was getting ready to leave it started pretty slow again.

JimN
07-01-2012, 10:31 AM
WHOOHOOO! Fixed!!

I put a new batt, new cables and a new key ignition. It fired up hard and strong. I could even turn it off and back on. I do however think there is still a problem with something draining voltage. The volt Meter showed 11 on the dash. When I turn the nav lights on the volts drop way down. But it still cranks hot and cold starts. When I was getting ready to leave it started pretty slow again.

Doesn't seem "fixed", to me.

Inspect the other wires that connect at the battery. If there's nothing but the main battery cable, look at where the battery cable connects at the starter solenoid- you should see at least one medium gauge wire on the battery post. Disconnect the - cable from the battery, remove that wires from the solenoid and measure from the medium gauge wire to the battery wire at the ignition switch. If you see more than a few tenths of an Ohm, you need to find out why. That one wire can cause all of these problems. One place to look if you do see this resistance is at the coupling between the engine harness and the boat harness. It should be near the circuit breaker on the engine. Unplug the two and check for corrosion.

thatsmrmastercraft
07-01-2012, 01:48 PM
Doesn't seem "fixed", to me.

Inspect the other wires that connect at the battery. If there's nothing but the main battery cable, look at where the battery cable connects at the starter solenoid- you should see at least one medium gauge wire on the battery post. Disconnect the - cable from the battery, remove that wires from the solenoid and measure from the medium gauge wire to the battery wire at the ignition switch. If you see more than a few tenths of an Ohm, you need to find out why. That one wire can cause all of these problems. One place to look if you do see this resistance is at the coupling between the engine harness and the boat harness. It should be near the circuit breaker on the engine. Unplug the two and check for corrosion.

Just solved two minor problems on my boat by cleaning the corrosion found at the main wiring harness connector on my boat. Didn't look bad, but a careful cleaning and a little dielectric grease went a long way.

Philscbx
07-01-2012, 04:27 PM
WHOOHOOO! Fixed!!

however - still a problem with something draining voltage.

When I turn the nav lights on the volts drop way down.
getting ready to leave it started pretty slow again.Almost - figured original battery was in bad shape -

Nav lights should not show a hard drain - unless there are 100w search lights across the bow.

Something else may have been tapped into Nav Light circuit -
like heated seats, if it had them.


Take a look in the light sockets for possible corrosion - test circuit with bulbs out or one that looks dim.
Teflon grease applied in sockets for sure.

When it gets tricky - I'll disconnect the battery - Trace circuit in reverse - powering light socket with small battery and trace back to switch to see where the issue is.

Alternator -
Could be a problem with alternator the way it sounds in general.
A blown Diode out the 3 or 4 can make minor 12v - but not put out what's needed.
An evening dead on the water needs to be solved - hours adrift not cool.

Charge battery while scoping out.
Large gauge extension cord modified - to 100Ft + roll of romex house wire with adaptors works great going long distance to charge source.
Not necessary to have 110v near the water.

Good Luck - you are getting close

Appling77
07-02-2012, 12:06 AM
Almost - figured original battery was in bad shape -

Nav lights should not show a hard drain - unless there are 100w search lights across the bow.

Something else may have been tapped into Nav Light circuit -
like heated seats, if it had them.


Take a look in the light sockets for possible corrosion - test circuit with bulbs out or one that looks dim.
Teflon grease applied in sockets for sure.

When it gets tricky - I'll disconnect the battery - Trace circuit in reverse - powering light socket with small battery and trace back to switch to see where the issue is.

Alternator -
Could be a problem with alternator the way it sounds in general.
A blown Diode out the 3 or 4 can make minor 12v - but not put out what's needed.
An evening dead on the water needs to be solved - hours adrift not cool.

Charge battery while scoping out.
Large gauge extension cord modified - to 100Ft + roll of romex house wire with adaptors works great going long distance to charge source.
Not necessary to have 110v near the water.

Good Luck - you are getting close

Yes thanks it's getting better I ran it for 2hours straight this evening it died once then cranked after about 15 mins. I really think its a alternator. I tested it today with the Meter and when I went to 1500 rpm the volts never changed.

JimN
07-02-2012, 06:17 AM
Yes thanks it's getting better I ran it for 2hours straight this evening it died once then cranked after about 15 mins. I really think its a alternator. I tested it today with the Meter and when I went to 1500 rpm the volts never changed.

Do you have a test light? Not the LED type, the kind with a bulb. Disconnect the battery and connect it between the cable and battery post. If it doesn't go bright, it's not a current draw problem. If it's on dimly, you DO have a draw, but not so much that it would keep it from cranking. At this point, measure the current draw- if it's about 330 mA, it could be the bridge rectifier in the alternator, but that should require about 3 days to kill a new battery.

Did you have the battery load-tested?

When you post 'won't crank' or 'cranks slowly', you mean that you turn the key and it's cranking slower than when it's cold, right? Some people use 'crank' instead of 'fire'.

Have you removed the starter and cleaned the mating surfaces? This is usually where the starter gets its ground and if that isn't clean, it's not going to crank at normal speed.

Remove the charging lead from the alternator when the engine is off and measure from the ring terminal to the ring terminal to the battery. This should be a low resistance connection and if you see more than .1 Ohms, you may need to splice a new end and terminal onto it. If this is the case, use a Heat N Seal butt splice- this is heated to the point that the low temperature solder flows and the plastic sleeve shrinks to seal the connection.

Appling77
07-03-2012, 12:36 AM
I put a new coil on today and this was the best day so far. I made a lap around the lake with no stalls and it cranked up and ran after I turned it off. I still feel there is a volt draw somewhere. On the video I cranked it up ran up the rpms to 2000 then when you see the voltage drop is when I was turning on the bilge and then the nav lights. So my question is, is this normal?




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAG5QPZLgfo

JimN
07-03-2012, 12:54 AM
I put a new coil on today and this was the best day so far. I made a lap around the lake with no stalls and it cranked up and ran after I turned it off. I still feel there is a volt draw somewhere. On the video I cranked it up ran up the rpms to 2000 then when you see the voltage drop is when I was turning on the bilge and then the nav lights. So my question is, is this normal?




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAG5QPZLgfo

When will you be testing for current draw?

Appling77
07-03-2012, 01:02 AM
I have to get another meter maybe tomorrow.

Appling77
07-05-2012, 10:37 PM
What does it mean if the boat won't start but will start when you use a screw driver on the solenoid?

Philscbx
07-05-2012, 11:22 PM
What does it mean if the boat won't start but will start when you use a screw driver on the solenoid?Then the small lead you jumped to is not getting fed by the key - or kill switch is set.

Appling77
07-05-2012, 11:32 PM
Ok I did put a new key ignition on so maybe there is a wire lose. It doesn't do it all the time just every once in awhile.

Philscbx
07-05-2012, 11:39 PM
May have to verify crimp on wire terminal ends - going to the switch.
Good luck - sound like your close.

Appling77
07-05-2012, 11:52 PM
Yea it runs good besides that. We stayed on it all day and evening yesterday. It's takes on a little water but I just have to watch the bilge. :)

Appling77
07-05-2012, 11:54 PM
The wiring is not good behind the dash it all probably needs redone. Over the years looks like people have wired and rewired stereos, depth finders and cig plugs just using electrical tape.

Appling77
07-05-2012, 11:56 PM
The hour meter, volt, gas and rpm gauges are the only ones that work.

Philscbx
07-06-2012, 12:05 AM
Unfortunately - people's style of wiring is get what ever it is working as quick as possible -
w/o much effort to make it nice - or permanent.

I can't help it - before & after restoring WWII aircraft for years -
I end up ripping it all out - and looms are made - with junction blocks to add easy to.
Upside down for hours - is normal.

Appling77
07-06-2012, 12:27 AM
Yea that will probably be a winter project.

JimN
07-06-2012, 08:48 AM
The wiring is not good behind the dash it all probably needs redone. Over the years looks like people have wired and rewired stereos, depth finders and cig plugs just using electrical tape.

That's usually because they "know someone who's good with this kind of stuff", but they're not. When you reconnect everything, use Heat N Shrink butt connectors and make sure to shrink them to seal. If you see that the bare wire is black after cutting the ends off, cut it back farther- if it's black every time you cut it back, use a Scotch Brite pad to clean the wire. In this case, it's best to solder the connections, but the easier way is by using Heat N Seal butt connectors. The difference is that these have solder with a low melting point that will flow when you heat them to make the plastic sleeve shrink.

Appling77
07-07-2012, 02:14 AM
Ok thanks I'll get some of those connectors. If a gauge does not work (temp gauge) does that mean the gauge is bad or wiring? Is there away to test a gauge?

I'm going to put a new impeller on Sunday just because I'm not sure when it was changed last. The engine seemed pretty warm on the 4th but the temp gauge doesn't work so I'm not sure.

Appling77
07-07-2012, 04:49 AM
Nevermind I found the thread on the temp gauge.