View Full Version : Hot Water Tank Heater

06-18-2012, 11:12 PM
I noticed over the last 2 weeks that our hot water in our house has not been as hot as it usually is.

The temperature regulator was set between A and B (A being warm, B meaning medium and C being hot). I turned the regulator up between B and C on Saturday and noticed a small difference but nothing exceptional.

Tonight the kids each took showers and the water was cool but not warm. I ran the bar sink on full hot which is the closest to the hot water tank and the water was not hot by any means.

I checked for a flame under the hot water tank and yes, it was full flame. I felt the copper pipe coming out of the tank leading to the house and it was just warm but not hot. :mad:

Anything I can troubleshoot before I just go and buy a new tank and replace it?

Tank is 10 years old this past April...

Thanks in advance for any tips!


06-18-2012, 11:52 PM
Go tankless, Noritz

06-18-2012, 11:52 PM
Just a guess. Try shutting off heater and gas. Hook up water hose to bottom of tank and let run for a while till water runs clear. May have sediment buildup in bottom of tank insulating flame from heating water. Relight heater and reset thermostat. If still not heating, may have bad regulator/thermostat gas valve assembly or low gas pressure to valve/ could have bad nat gas pressure regulator on meter to house/ or bad primary or secondary regulator on lp gas tank.

06-19-2012, 12:04 AM

I checked just now and the pilot is on. I cranked up the thermostat to full hot and no big flame. I checked the bar sink now and I have hot water. Pipe to house is now house (as I have water at bar sink).

I will drain the tank tomorrow after work and see what I get out of it.

I think if anything, it is the thermostat / temp guage. Pilot flame looked strong and so did the flame when the entire ring was lit.

Will keep you posted of progress.


Yes, tankless would be nice...

06-19-2012, 06:55 AM
10 years old....on its last legs....that is old for a water heater

Sent from my PB99400 using Tapatalk

06-19-2012, 08:24 AM
Same issue here...my tank was full of calcium build up. Once a month I flush the tank and it has bought me about 2 more years. Just sold the house last month and the tank was 15 yrs old. Doged a bullet there!

I also installed a ball vavle on the bottom of the tank, makes the flushing faster and more turblance to break up the sediment.

06-19-2012, 12:03 PM
we had to replace ours last year after 11 years, propane, due to the tank sprung a leak. I was surprised at how much more effecient the new one is over the old one along with the increased water temperature (due to calcium build up in bottom of old) and much longer duration of having hot water before temp starts to drop (same size tank). The area we are in is very high in calcium/lime build up, even running a water softener. Keeping my fingers crossed on our second water heater making it a few more years due to it being used much less (zoned WH & AC into adult kids bedrooms/bathrooms, turn up when they are visiting/down when they leave).

Most tanks have a valve on the side at the bottom where you can attach a water hose to run outside (water yard) and open up popoff valve to prevent vapor lock. Once you have it drained, turn water back on until it runs clear ... close off side valve to allow tank to refill, close off popoff valve and re-lite. Easiest thing to do before diving into thermostat, regulators, etc.

06-19-2012, 12:48 PM
The way a tank water heater fills and discharges water is on the fill side theres a tube internally that delivers the cold water to the bottom of the tank and when in use the hot water comes directly from the top of the tank, if the tube comes dislodged from the fill inlet all you're getting is diluted hot water because the cold water never reaches the bottom of the tank.
remove the cold water fill supply pipe and look to see if the internal tube is still there

06-19-2012, 01:20 PM
All I can say is I've had bad experiences with Tankless type heaters. I can't tell you any brand names.....just experience. My dad has a few in his house and cabin and everytime we go and take a shower, 3 minutes into it, freezing cold! They've looked at it a few times and said each time it just needed to be cleaned. :confused: I've never cleaned a traditional one and that seems like a strange solution.

Well, next time we went out there it happened again. It's at a point that my wife and kids don't really take showers over the stay. I take showers but I get an increadible wake up at the end! Wow it's cold!

It also makes a lot of noise when it comes one so not for me.

We are building a new house and just put in 2-50 gallon tanks with some special venting. Suppose to help on the efficiency but time will tell. Sure did take a little bit to get them installed correctly as the venting needs to run 4' horizontally before going up to vent. Hard to do in some cases. The plumber also put in a recirculating pump so theoretically, we should not have to wait to get the hot water from the tank to the fixture.

Anyways, just my experience with the tankless approach.

I've also heard that if you have all of the fixtures running, it can't keep up so if a high demand is required periodically, it may not perform very well.

06-19-2012, 02:50 PM
If you're having problems with a tankless water heater then its not a Noritz most likely a POS AquaStar by Bosch
Been installing Noritz for better that 15 years and never had one problem

06-19-2012, 03:57 PM
If you're having problems with a tankless water heater then its not a Noritz most likely a POS AquaStar by Bosch
Been installing Noritz for better that 15 years and never had one problem

It could very well be.....just don't know for sure.

They don't really inspect jobs in Wyoming so it could have been a poor install/product. Glad to hear someone is having success with these heaters.

06-20-2012, 10:29 PM
Like snork said its probably the dip tube,they corrode nand fall off short circuiting the cold water,dip tubes are are cheap unless its a bradford white,there tubes contain the anode.