View Full Version : Newbie to ballast please help
06-10-2012, 03:59 PM
Boght on 03 x2. Appears to have two hard ballest I see one line in at bottom one out at top, and one fat sac in the middle, with three lines, it was leaking so took it out but the lies are still there. Three ballest switches, one works a pump under rear set, I think it worked the fat sac, the second switch is doing nothing (bad ump or fuse?). When I turn the third switch on I hear a pump running on drivers side. It now sure where it is. It looks like water comes in one line then flows through a manifold and out everywhere else, how does all this work what should I do to make it all work properly?
06-10-2012, 04:55 PM
I'm not 100% sure, but I would imagine the factory plumbing on your boat is the same as mine. From your description, it certainly sounds the same.
So, this is how it works:
- The thru-hull intake on the bottom of your boat connects to the distribution manifold just under the port side of the engine
- The manifold feeds 3 pumps (port locker, stbd locker, and under rear seat) and 2 above-water thru-hull discharge lines
- The port locker tank is filled/emptied by the pump behind the rear access panel in the port locker
- The bottom rear line on the port tank connects to its pump for fill/drain
- The front top line on the port tank connects to the thru-hull vent on the port side of the boat
- The stbd locker tank is filled/emptied by the pump behind the rear access panel in the stbd locker
- The bottom rear line on the stbd tank connects to its pump for fill/drain
- The front top line on the stbd tank connects to the thru-hull vent on the stbd side of the boat
- The centre ballast is filled/emptied by the pump under the rear seat
- The top two lines on the centre ballast bag are vent lines and connect to thru-hull fittings below the windshield on both sides of the boat
- The bottom line on the centre ballast bag connects to its pump for fill/drain
To start, you should probably change the impellers in all 3 pumps. Pull the rear access panels in both lockers to access the rear pumps. I'm betting the old black rubber impeller in the rear port pump is seized which is why that pump doesn't work. Use the green impellers as replacements. Wakemakers (http://www.wakemakers.com/jabsco-ballast-puppy-green-neoprene-impeller.html) sells them. The pump performance will be way better with new impellers.
If the port pump still doesn't turn with the new impellers, you might need to replace the pump. If you do, flip it around so the pump head is down, like described in the thread linked below. With the pump head above the motor, sometimes water leaks through the pump seal and down the shaft into the motor, which tends to lead to a dead pump.
If you're looking to upgrade, here's a thread (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=42389) on a fairly easy way to do it.
Hope that helps.
06-10-2012, 05:10 PM
When any pump runs in the "fill" direction, it sucks water from the underwater thru-hull into the manifold, through the pump, and into the ballast tank/bag. The two discharge lines on the manifold are equipped with check valves so they don't let the pump suck air in from the above-water thru-hull fittings when the manifold is under negative pressure.
When any pump runs in the "empty" direction, it sucks water from the ballast tank/bag, through the pump, into the manifold, and out the two discharge lines on either side of the boat. The line between the underwater thru-hull fitting and the manifold is equipped with a check valve so water won't be forced back out the underwater thru-hull when the pumps are "draining".
I assume it's done this way so you can see/hear when the water stops pouring out the above-water discharge lines (ballast tanks/bags are empty) and you can stop the pumps to prevent them running dry (hard on impellers).
06-11-2012, 08:53 PM
That was a huge help, thanks for your time. I switched the pump in the back that wasn't working with the one under the seat so I have two in the back working I hope. Now I'll work on the other pump. Can I reattach the center bag to the plunger like ends or do I have to buy a new sac? I put a cut off on the hose under the seat that runs to the manifold so that no water comes back through. Now I just need to get to the lake to test it out.
06-12-2012, 06:40 PM
Not sure what you mean by "plunger like ends"?
On my KGB bag, the connectors are just barbed hose fittings that the hose slips over and tightens on with a band-clamp.
06-12-2012, 09:33 PM
The hose is clamped to whatsed to be inside the bag. Does your bag have holes in it or is there a barbed end that the hose slides over? My bag just has holes on it now.
The pump,I took off..l I pulled the mpellerit seems fine but the pump still doesn't kick on. Isit just toast of should I start pulling it apart?
06-13-2012, 09:53 AM
My bag has barbed ends that the hose slides over. Sounds like you might need a new bag...
Try running the pump without the impeller in it and see if it moves. If not, I'd say it's toast.
What colour is the impeller?
06-13-2012, 05:19 PM
Yellow. Yeah I think this bag is toast too, where can I buy a new one
check with wakemakers.com
08-10-2012, 02:00 PM
Yellow. Yeah I think this bag is toast too, where can I buy a new one
I'm thinking I'd like to replace mine too... did you have any luck finding a replacement? Size? Capacity?
08-10-2012, 04:41 PM
One of the fitting separated itself from the sac on my ski locker ballast. I looked into getting another one last year. No one makes a bag that fits the 205v ski locker exactly. The closest off the shelf bag is the fly high pro x series tube sac for $130. I looked into getting a custom 80"x10"x10" sac made for the ski locker, but I was quoted $450 for it. According to wakemakers, the tube sac will hold about 70lbs less. I ended up repairing my bag using some construction adhesive, and it's still holding strong.
I did the same in my newly purchased this July 02 x-star.
The center ballast bag had two problems:
1. the top right barbed fitting was literally split in half and
2. the lower center barbed fitting had come unseated/unglued
The fix was some sealing tape (used to seal leaks on tubes) and some adhesive.
So far it leaks a wee bit from somewhere but not enough to be concerned - that said it is pain to have to dry out the locker every time.
I've been thinking about upgrading the entire ballast system: removing the hard tanks and replacing with 750's in the back and the 650 IBS from wakemakers (but boy that will not be cheap!)
I typically have 3 adults and 4 kids in the boat.... but the best time I have ever had out on that boat is with two LARGE adults 2 regular sized adults and 5 kids.... IE more weight.
One thought to help mimic this...and mind you this is super low brow but would work nicely in a pinch:
the 5 gallon water jugs fit perfectly next to the hard tanks in the rear lockers. I can fit 3 on each side for a total of 6 and at roughly 8.35lbs per gallon that is an extra 250lbs of rear ballast. To offset make sure your biggest adult is sitting up front.
In any event that is what I am going to try this Sunday :)
Here she is... (finally figured out how to post a picture... )
10-05-2012, 11:59 AM
Very nice boat! Looks like she's in great shape.
Super clean with only 96 hours on the meter! I've added a few since then and we are up to 125.
10-06-2012, 02:28 AM
That boat look super clean. 125 hours on a 2002 is crazy low.
Removing the hard tanks and installing 750s is a great idea. You get a lot more storage when the ballast is empty. It's an easy switch. The integrated bow sac is kind of worthless in my opinion. I had it and got rid of it. It holds maybe 350lbs in the bow of the 205v/xstar/x2/x1. There just isn't enough room under the front seats for it to even come close to filling. The boat likes a lot of weight in the front. The best best is a bunch of lead up front, but since it looks like you trailer it, I would stay away from lead. I run the 1100lb bow triangle. I also have the factory ski locker sac. I still only fill my 750s to about 60-70% for wakeboarding. The only time I fill them all the way is for surfing.
I don't know what the stock prop was for the 2002 xstar, but it was 14x20 on my 2003 x2. It took about 30s to get on plane with that prop and all the weight. I switched to a 14.25x14.5 and the boat jumps out of the hole loaded down. Be prepared to reprop if you add a substantial amount of weight.
10-06-2012, 02:29 AM
Double post, sorry
Good to know about the IBS up front. I thought the compartment looked tight.
The 1000lb triangle doesn't hurt the seats?
On the rear you fill to 60% so that's about 800lbs with the twin 750s you get the option to increase it for surfing. When surfing do you go all out on weight up front?
check - regarding upgrading the prop.
10-06-2012, 05:29 PM
No, the triangle doesn't hurt the seats. Hopefully you already have the bow filler cushion.
Going all out on weight up front when surfing keeps the swim platform from dragging in the water and making the wave wash. I don't think you need all 1000lb up there, but I usually already have it full from wakeboarding when we surf.
No, unfortunately I do not have the bow filler cushion. No idea where I would even begin to look for one! I have a bad feeling I'd need to have one made....Or opt to go with a bag in the isle as the next best thing.
10-06-2012, 08:05 PM
I had one made at a local vinyl shop. They only charged me $75. I paid another $50 for a piece of 1/2" starboard to support it. It makes the bow a lot more usable. The kids really love it.
That's not too bad at all. Do you happen to have any pics of how it works? (Never mind I just found your thread on it - that's a great mod!)
but since my mind is firmly on the subject.....I would love to see a picture of a surfing wave with that 1000lbs upfront! (I am asking a lot I know lol)
10-06-2012, 09:50 PM
I don't think I have one, but I'll try to get one next time I get the boat out.