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oldschool
06-08-2012, 07:31 PM
Hi all, I'll go ahead and say thanks for all the help already. I've been stealing help from past posts the second I bought my boat. I recently purchased a 1984 Stars and Stripes, but have found issues every single time I've taken it out. So far I have gotten a new battery, new alternator, new impeller, new hoses, blower hoses, and a new blower. Got a great steal on this boat (i think..). Any help with what parts are likely to fail would be a great help. The guy I bought it from was a good welder, but I'm starting to think he was poor with boats. The impeller had basically exploded and the exhaust hoses had holes the size of baseballs in them... Would a K&N be better than my stock flame arrestor? And does anybody know if there are premade skins for these boats?

oldschool
06-08-2012, 08:05 PM
I also have the original paper work from when this boat was bought from the factory, I don't know if these things are common or not

madcityskier
06-09-2012, 01:43 AM
Mastercraftskins.com should have patterns to get you new skins. The fabric that came in it is dead and gone, so you have to do it all if you want it to match. From the corrosion in the pics I'd change out the coil and distributer plugs and wires. If you're an electronic ignition guy now would be a good time.

BrooksfamX2
06-09-2012, 10:06 AM
Looks like a great project boat, keep us updated and :wavey: from Oregon.....

thatsmrmastercraft
06-09-2012, 11:43 AM
Welcome to Team Talk and the Mastercraft family. Looks like you have a great boat that needs a little TLC and some updating. From a mechanical viewpoint, you need to change out the automotive carb to a Marine carb. A marine Holley 4160 is the proper carb to have on there. I just bought a used 4160 in need of rebuilding from a TT member and rebuilt it for my boat. madcityskier was right on with a full tune-up. I also just added a Pertronix electronic ignition and updated coil.

Good luck with your work, and don't hesitate to ask any questions.......Lord knows you will have plenty of them.

Have the good guys at SKIDIM send you a catalog. This will become an invaluable resource, as well as a great source for parts and information. Also head on down to your local Mastercraft Dealer (if there is one nearby) and introduce yourself. If you go, bring your boat....everyone wants to check out a Stars & Stripes. Even a work in progress.

http://www.skidim.com/

MasterKraftS&S
06-09-2012, 03:17 PM
Don't want to hijack the thread - this is related. Looking into going Elec Ignition - anything special to know when ordering the parts/kit(say, the Pertonix for instance)? What should I expect to spend OR just name a good source? Skidim?

thatsmrmastercraft
06-09-2012, 04:05 PM
Don't want to hijack the thread - this is related. Looking into going Elec Ignition - anything special to know when ordering the parts/kit(say, the Pertonix for instance)? What should I expect to spend OR just name a good source? Skidim?

If you go to the Pertronix website, you can enter your distributor number and they will give you the correct part number for your application. I bought my Pertronix Ignitor II and Flamethrower coil from Advance Auto. They have some killer pricing and a free shipping offer. Check Amazon for pricing too. Very simple installation and great results.

http://www.pertronix.com/
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/home___

AFX-30
06-09-2012, 04:30 PM
I love the look of the brown S&S's. Wish it was big enough for my village.

MasterKraftS&S
06-09-2012, 07:25 PM
I love the look of the brown S&S's. Wish it was big enough for my village.

The OTHER boat is a 27' Rendevous(BAYLINER) seats 16 for when we're done skiing! We might have 7 skiers in the AM it's gonna be TIGHT! The Boarders don't mind - Extra Ballasts!

AFX-30
06-09-2012, 07:50 PM
Yea the wife and I have 7 kids so trying to put them in that enclosed space would not work. U have the boat I want when the wife and we retire.

oldschool
06-09-2012, 08:12 PM
What are the advantages of electronic ignition? Also, I haven't been able to identify what carb i currently have but how was it obvious that i had an automotive and not a marine carb? I get the parts in on wednesday, interior will have to wait.. I'd like to take this boat out once before the lake dries up. Seems obvious but can I use an automotive fuel filter? O'Reilly's is down the street, West Marine is more than a skip and hop. I'll also go ahead and say y'all successfully talked me out of a tower after looking at one post on here. I guess it would be like putting a 3 foot spoiler on a 67 mustang.. Stripper pole it is, then.

Lumbergh
06-09-2012, 09:24 PM
Re: All things MC - The FAQ on the Gen Disc page is great

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=5427

Auto parts:

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=166941&postcount=33

03geetee
06-10-2012, 09:32 AM
Congrats on the boat man, any questions search here or ask away there is a real soft spot for these boats here. You wont find a better resource.

JTR

oldschool
06-10-2012, 05:17 PM
Lumbergh that link helped a lot, off to the parts store. Are any of y'all based in Austin?

thatsmrmastercraft
06-10-2012, 06:08 PM
What are the advantages of electronic ignition? Also, I haven't been able to identify what carb i currently have but how was it obvious that i had an automotive and not a marine carb? I get the parts in on wednesday, interior will have to wait.. I'd like to take this boat out once before the lake dries up. Seems obvious but can I use an automotive fuel filter? O'Reilly's is down the street, West Marine is more than a skip and hop. I'll also go ahead and say y'all successfully talked me out of a tower after looking at one post on here. I guess it would be like putting a 3 foot spoiler on a 67 mustang.. Stripper pole it is, then.

Electronic ignition operates on 2-3 time the voltage so the spark is much stronger. It also doesn't wear like points do.........and as they wear your dwell changes so there is an effect on start-up and running. Not that your boat isn't fully operational with points, it is just a great upgrade. I put upgrading mine off for two years as there were other boat items higher on the list.

The easiest way to tell a marine from an automotive Holley is the vent tubes on the marine version are "J" shaped to force any overflow fuel back into the carb, thereby not allowing it to run down the engine into the bilge and create an explosive situation. Marine versions don't have a functional fast idle attached to the automatic choke, as well as there are some other minor differences as well.

Glad you made the decision to go with the stripper pole. Your Mustang analogy was very accurate.

There are many parts on these boats that are simple automotive parts, or marine parts readily available. Some of the major marine only components are the carb, starter, distributor and alternator.

When I got my non-running project boat, I drew up a plan of attack where Phase 1 was to get the boat running properly and operational on the water. Phase 2 is mechanical upgrades with some cosmetic items (that's where I am now), and Phase 3 will almost exclusively cosmetic. This helped me plan costs and work (sort of) within my budget.

millpondkid
06-10-2012, 07:47 PM
I also have a 84 ss cream and brown. One thing to consider is to have your fuel line from fuel pump to carb all hard line(no rubber tubing). As far as starters go I just updated to an arco mini starter 118 bucks. Lightweight and more cranking power.

thatsmrmastercraft
06-10-2012, 09:46 PM
I also have a 84 ss cream and brown. One thing to consider is to have your fuel line from fuel pump to carb all hard line(no rubber tubing). As far as starters go I just updated to an arco mini starter 118 bucks. Lightweight and more cranking power.

Nice update.

mikeg205
06-10-2012, 10:05 PM
What are the advantages of electronic ignition? Also, I haven't been able to identify what carb i currently have but how was it obvious that i had an automotive and not a marine carb? I get the parts in on wednesday, interior will have to wait.. I'd like to take this boat out once before the lake dries up. Seems obvious but can I use an automotive fuel filter? O'Reilly's is down the street, West Marine is more than a skip and hop. I'll also go ahead and say y'all successfully talked me out of a tower after looking at one post on here. I guess it would be like putting a 3 foot spoiler on a 67 mustang.. Stripper pole it is, then.

always check for parts and where to get them... for example parts are sometimes double at marine shops than at NAPA or Oreilly's - plus shipping. i.e. in line fuel filter 12.95 online plus freight as opposed to $6.95 at NAPA.

oldschool
06-16-2012, 09:58 PM
got it on the water yesterday, all the new parts and tips worked perfectly. Finally get to buy fun parts now.. Sent out for some MTX component speakers so i can drop the walmart speakers drywall screwed into the fiberglass. Will post pictures sunday of the engine bay. I've tried searching the forums, any idea on the ohm readings for the fuel gauge? The previous owner used a stick with notches in it as a fuel reading.

occva
06-16-2012, 10:06 PM
I use a stick with notches too. More reliable than my sending unit.

Micnic
06-16-2012, 10:30 PM
Get used to it. Older boats always need something. Just be glad its all small stuff!!!

oldschool
06-27-2012, 03:28 AM
I seem to be having some electrical gremlins.. I am getting a zero reading on the ammeter and the battery will obviously not recharge. I've gone through the wiring on top of the block and it is an absolute nightmare, spliced and crimped all the way to the harness. I got my hands on a wiring diagram, purchased electronic ignition from pertronix (the II edition), a new solenoid just in case, and a new ballast resistor. I am not seeing the ballast resistor on the wiring diagram, nor was it hooked up on the boat. Will I still need that with the electronic ignition? I am getting nothing on the gauges currently as I think something became fried.. How do I reset the 40a breaker on the back? Would that even be necessary?

thatsmrmastercraft
06-27-2012, 10:34 AM
I seem to be having some electrical gremlins.. I am getting a zero reading on the ammeter and the battery will obviously not recharge. I've gone through the wiring on top of the block and it is an absolute nightmare, spliced and crimped all the way to the harness. I got my hands on a wiring diagram, purchased electronic ignition from pertronix (the II edition), a new solenoid just in case, and a new ballast resistor. I am not seeing the ballast resistor on the wiring diagram, nor was it hooked up on the boat. Will I still need that with the electronic ignition? I am getting nothing on the gauges currently as I think something became fried.. How do I reset the 40a breaker on the back? Would that even be necessary?

I have the Pertronix Ignitor II and the Flamethrower coil. With that combination, Pertronix says not to use the ballast resistor and mine works great that way.

Electrical connections on an old boat are all suspect. I would start by disconnecting every connection you can, cleaning it up, and re-assembling it with a dab of dielectric grease to keep the corrosion out.

oldschool
06-27-2012, 05:48 PM
Thanks for the ballast resistor tip, I guess I'll keep it in case I ever have to go back to points ignition. Looks like my day has filled up, headed to check the wires.

oldschool
06-29-2012, 05:23 PM
Does anybody know what the I terminal connects directly to on the solenoid? I know I've got a shirt wire about 4 inches long but it's the only wire my picture doesn't show it's path. I'm fairly certain it's for ignition.

oldschool
06-29-2012, 05:24 PM
Short*

oldschool
07-09-2012, 04:01 PM
I still can't get any power to the dash.. Would a bad ammeter be suspect? I'm taking that off today but after that I am completely out of ideas on what the problem could be. Is there a hidden fuse bewteen the engine and the dash besides the 40A breaker?

cptskier15
07-19-2012, 10:11 AM
Looks hectic! I have not read all the posts in full yet so forgive me if I repeat some stuff.

We have had ours boat for 15 years, only now is it running 110%!!!

Things to replace which cost nothing and save you tons of time:
- Get new distributor cap and rotor, small amount of play messes with timing.
- Replace fuel line.
- Check the fuel filter in the pick up in the tank (blockages can give headaches)
- Proper set of plug leads
- New leads from battery to starter motor.

Everything else gets a little more pricey :P

thatsmrmastercraft
07-19-2012, 10:25 AM
Looks hectic! I have not read all the posts in full yet so forgive me if I repeat some stuff.

We have had ours boat for 15 years, only now is it running 110%!!!

Things to replace which cost nothing and save you tons of time:
- Get new distributor cap and rotor, small amount of play messes with timing.
- Replace fuel line.
- Check the fuel filter in the pick up in the tank (blockages can give headaches)
- Proper set of plug leads
- New leads from battery to starter motor.

Everything else gets a little more pricey :P

It is truly important to have all the basics taken care of first. The only thing I would add to your list is spark plugs.

oldschool
07-19-2012, 08:21 PM
I am the dumbest smart person here.. After fumbling with rewiring and replacing 90 percent of the electrical system it was a tube fuse in the dash. I can admit i'm used to the blade type fuses and have never owned a vehicle (much less boat) that uses these tube fuses. The alternator I bought was f'ed from the get go so that caused several problems. I'll certainly be changing the cap, wires, and plugs just to be thorough. Thanks again for the usual help, would've spent a bazillion dollars at the mastercraft house by now.

ctjahn
07-19-2012, 08:40 PM
I am the dumbest smart person here.. After fumbling with rewiring and replacing 90 percent of the electrical system it was a tube fuse in the dash. I can admit i'm used to the blade type fuses and have never owned a vehicle (much less boat) that uses these tube fuses. The alternator I bought was f'ed from the get go so that caused several problems. I'll certainly be changing the cap, wires, and plugs just to be thorough. Thanks again for the usual help, would've spent a bazillion dollars at the mastercraft house by now.

Due to experience, when ever I have an issue I test the glass fuses with a voltmeter....Even though visual inspection shows it is ok.... Learned the hard way.

And I think BlueSea Systems makes a replacement that is virtually bolt in. I did it (and the wiring later) because some prior owner re-soldered the board that the fuses install on but were still questionable..

cj

DH9441
07-20-2012, 03:02 PM
Dont forget to replace the Flux Capacitor. That's key to a healthy engine. :-)

oldschool
07-23-2012, 03:10 PM
Taking it out for a test drive. We'll see..

oldschool
08-31-2012, 05:40 PM
Thing was running great for about a week there.. back to the help board :/ . While out on the lake the boat was just floating and when i went to start it, nothing. I got gauge hop and power to the dash but nothing to the block. To remedy this i bridged the two wires that connect to the transmission, and that allows me to turn the engine over but am unable to get any spark. Even after triple checking to make sure the boat is in neutral it still won't turn over without those wires being bridged. I have a new coil, just changed the cap and rotor, and had rewired the engine a few weeks back. I don't think my wiring is at fault due to it functioning previously. Still no spark. Open to any suggestions. Would it be possible the sensor went bad inside the distributor? As always, thanks for the great help.

cbryan70
08-31-2012, 06:02 PM
Safety switch?

you could of had a MC
09-01-2012, 09:50 PM
Don't for get the battery cables, no matter how good they look. Proper ground and good spark are the lifeblood of a proper running boat. Ive been there.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/picture.php?albumid=71&pictureid=4312

oldschool
10-16-2012, 04:44 PM
figured it out.. distributor had teeth missing, had a bad neutral safety switch, and the timing was off due to the teeth missing. ended up changing the wiring, again, new valve covers, new alternator, carpet, pertronix distributor, plugs, wires, and now i get to winterize it.

sxerob
10-24-2012, 01:46 PM
Nice! I have the same boat. Engine is running great, just looks ****ty. I have a problem with not leaving "Good Enough" alone and having it bite me in the ***. I will clean it up at some point.

Can't wait to see how this turns out.

Lumbergh
10-24-2012, 03:47 PM
Nice work so far!

It always pains me to see something nice get neglected like that. The PO really did not care for that boat at all.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
10-24-2012, 04:45 PM
figured it out.. distributor had teeth missing, had a bad neutral safety switch, and the timing was off due to the teeth missing. ended up changing the wiring, again, new valve covers, new alternator, carpet, pertronix distributor, plugs, wires, and now i get to winterize it.

Just a word of advise or caution, make sure that air cleaner is coast guard approved and is a spark arrestor and also ensure you are running a PCV system on the engine valve covers, by the pictures one looks like a plug and not a pcv valve or breather. If you don't run a pcv system the engine will develope to much crankcase pressure and start blowing out gaskets, seals etc. also it will probably blow off that cap and just plain run very poorly. It should look something like this, you can either run an open breather (no external hose) or a sealed breather with a hose to the flame arrestor either way is ok on one side and the other side run a pcv valve to the bottom of carburator or intake manifold (where ever your big port is).

oldschool
02-15-2013, 05:12 PM
Thanks for the tip, the mechanic i used only said i would have a rough idle if i circumvented the breathers. Also, the K&N filter is coast guard approved, thanks for the concern. Almost done with it all, can't wait for the summer. Recently got some LED tape for the inside to go around the perimeter, looks great. Also very convenient at night and easy on the battery. Finally got the PoliGlow in the mail, if you haven't done that to your boat yet get on it. That stuff is amazing, the boat looks brand new. No more wax and no more streaks. Just need to trim out all the wires and this will be wrapped up. Does anybody happen to know the ohms rating for the fuel gauge?

sam196370
02-15-2013, 05:23 PM
Looks great! Did you just use Poliglow to get that shine?

Also - where did you get the LED lights? Great addition!

oldschool
02-15-2013, 06:20 PM
yes that's poliglow the next day without any wax, buffing, anything. The LED tape is available on amazon by a company called sainstyle. It hooks directly up to the battery and comes with a remote with 20 preset colors, strobe, brightness, and random options. I would recommend finding one with a hardwired remote as mine comes with a infrared system and i know i'll eventually lose the remote. 5 meters is enough to go from behind the drivers seat, under the dash, around the observer seat, and down to the end of the boat. 10 meters would probably get the whole boat but i have a speaker box running down the starboard so i didn't mind. i used superglue to get it to stick to the coarse fiberglass. $35. I've got the underwater LEDs coming in the mail, can't wait for those.

ProStar200
02-16-2013, 11:34 AM
Looks great so far and congrats. Nice to see people refurbishing the Classics. After that wheels and tires. Would like to hear more about the Poliglow.

oldschool
02-18-2013, 09:02 PM
The poliglow has been the best investment I've made so far. It took the boat from old but niceish from a distance to looking brand new. It goes on like a varnish. Lots and lots of prep work though, you have to wash the boat thoroughly with the included spray. It strips the wax off and helps with streaks and blemishes. The poliglow goes on after and seals everything in. You put on a few layers as it dries in a couple minutes with an included applicator. DO NOT DO IT CLOSE TO DUSK. I did, thinking like a wax oriented individual and the dew from night time in Texas accumulated as it was setting and I had to strip the whole boat and start over.

oldschool
02-18-2013, 09:06 PM
My favorite thing about it is I didn't have to replace the decals or grind away another layer of the gelcoat. That's what put me in that direction instead of wet sanding.

Jerseydave
02-18-2013, 09:42 PM
My favorite thing about it is I didn't have to replace the decals or grind away another layer of the gelcoat. That's what put me in that direction instead of wet sanding.

I wonder how well that would work on fiberglass trailer fenders that are faded?
Where can you buy it?

TOO-TALL
02-18-2013, 10:34 PM
I'm intrested in poliglow also.

walterlaughlin
02-19-2013, 12:50 AM
yes that's poliglow the next day without any wax, buffing, anything. The LED tape is available on amazon by a company called sainstyle. It hooks directly up to the battery and comes with a remote with 20 preset colors, strobe, brightness, and random options. I would recommend finding one with a hardwired remote as mine comes with a infrared system and i know i'll eventually lose the remote. 5 meters is enough to go from behind the drivers seat, under the dash, around the observer seat, and down to the end of the boat. 10 meters would probably get the whole boat but i have a speaker box running down the starboard so i didn't mind. i used superglue to get it to stick to the coarse fiberglass. $35. I've got the underwater LEDs coming in the mail, can't wait for those.

That looks like a nice LED setup, does it need to be wired directly to the battery or can you connect it to an existing interior lighting circuit?

oldschool
02-19-2013, 03:41 PM
LED's are really simple for 12 volt applications. They don't require much power and can be hardwired into just about anything on the boat, even the speaker wire. If it goes into the speaker wire it lights up with the music, not for me though. I have a small terminal set up by the battery so it makes it easy for me to just take accessories to that spot like the radio. I think the poliglow would work on your fiberglass trailer fenders, the idea behind it is the polymer fills microscopic pits in the finish of the gelcoat and (i think) fiberglass. The reason the gel coat loses it's shine is because the pits redirect the sun in various directions instead of having a uniform finish. I would go for it. The kit is on amazon, somewhere around sixty doll hairs. It's enough to do a small boat several times over.

oldschool
02-22-2013, 12:13 PM
Hi all, finally getting the interior done and was wondering how y'all felt about getting rid of the stripes and just having stars stitched down the center of the engine cover..

ProStar200
02-23-2013, 08:36 AM
My choice would be to keep the stripes (original). Looks great, keep the photos coming.

Ski-me
02-23-2013, 10:31 AM
I'd keep it as original as possible. Glad you've stuck with this project....it's starting to look real nice!

oldschool
02-26-2013, 10:28 PM
Thanks for all the thumbs up guys! it's been a process.. I ended up dropping the stripes, im sorry! I'm having a black stripe to match the hood done on the engine cover with stars to match and the same on the back seat with one star on the back rest. The guy I found was the only affordable shop in Austin and his work looked really good. He's getting the side rails done so i can put speakers in each corner instead of all on one side and i'm dropping a fair amount of piping on the seats. Local shops wanted 3K+ because i needed new wood and foam and this guy is doing everything for less than 2. Doing the swim platform currently. Sanded it down with 180 and 400 grit sand then cleaned it up with laundry detergent and bleach. Just finished applying the teak oil and it's finally not old and gray.

DemolitionMan
02-26-2013, 10:42 PM
Hi all, finally getting the interior done and was wondering how y'all felt about getting rid of the stripes and just having stars stitched down the center of the engine cover..

The stars look nice.

TN Barefooter
02-26-2013, 10:52 PM
Very impressive work. You have it looking great.

oldschool
03-18-2013, 10:50 PM
Got the back seat done, looking really good so far

thatsmrmastercraft
03-18-2013, 11:01 PM
Got the back seat done, looking really good so far

That looks great!

oldschool
03-23-2013, 07:04 PM
Done!

orbeamlb
03-23-2013, 07:20 PM
Done!

That looks great Oldschool, can't wait to see you out on Lake Austin this year. We also frequent Lake Georgetown. Crank up the 80's on the stereo!

SSMoose
03-23-2013, 09:34 PM
I think your boat looks great. I just wish that I could afford all the work. I seem to only be able to screw it up when I try to do the work.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-23-2013, 11:04 PM
Fantastic work! :toast:

BROUSSARD
03-23-2013, 11:38 PM
Looks amazing! Redoing the pylon next?

oldschool
03-27-2013, 11:43 PM
Thanks y'all, almost done with her. Took it out last night and had a blowout :rant: and the motor kept backfiring out of the flame arrestor? Is that common for engines that have been sitting? Hopefully it's not a valve issue. I hate taking the exhaust manifold off. The pylon will probably remain janky, I've got a fly high pole that goes over it. I still need to put the underwater LEDs on and some new gauges and probably by then it'll be back to motor work lol

oldschool
03-27-2013, 11:45 PM
LEDs and amp going in

thatsmrmastercraft
03-28-2013, 12:24 AM
If you backfired through the carb, you have most likely blown your power valve- unless you have done the update. Pull the bowl, remove the power valve and check it out. Then check the routing of your plug wires. If they all go to the correct holes in the proper order, check the timing. Hopefully on of those issues and not a flat cam.

oldschool
03-28-2013, 01:28 AM
I'm sorry, I haven't the slightest clue what a power valve is. Could you fill me in?

BROUSSARD
03-28-2013, 10:36 AM
Can't wait to see the finished project! Just a suggestion: even though you plan to use a fly high I would redo the pylon now while you are working on the boat (will make it easier to sell)

cptskier15
04-03-2013, 10:13 AM
Project going so well! Must look for an upholster for our S&S. Also want a bimini top this summer!

oldschool
04-03-2013, 04:56 PM
Threw in the towel on the carb rebuild and just bought a new one.. It was an automotive carb anyways. No more bombs waiting to explode over here lol.

mzimme
04-03-2013, 05:02 PM
I love the interior on that thing... looks awesome! Hopefully you get her mechanical issues figured out soon so you can enjoy it without being scared of being stranded haha. Nice boat!

oldschool
04-04-2013, 06:20 PM
Thanks! I am really happy with how it came out. I can't wait to show y'all a night pic, the lights give the speakers a glow from behind it and looks like I almost know what I'm doing lol. New carb came in today, I'm left confused though because it doesn't have float adjustment peep holes. Guess ill find out soon enough

thatsmrmastercraft
04-04-2013, 06:36 PM
Thanks! I am really happy with how it came out. I can't wait to show y'all a night pic, the lights give the speakers a glow from behind it and looks like I almost know what I'm doing lol. New carb came in today, I'm left confused though because it doesn't have float adjustment peep holes. Guess ill find out soon enough

The marine carbs used on MC's don't have external float adjustments. You have to remove the fuel bowl to make the adjustment. The new carb will come with the adjsutemnt already set.

oldschool
04-06-2013, 05:42 PM
The carb seems to be tuned fine enough so I'm not going to mess with it. I ended up having 2 wires mixed up from the distributor and that was causing the blowbacks.. Thanks for the tip mrmastercraft! considerable increase in engine response and low end power now with the whole ignition system and carburetor replaced.

thatsmrmastercraft
04-06-2013, 07:02 PM
The carb seems to be tuned fine enough so I'm not going to mess with it. I ended up having 2 wires mixed up from the distributor and that was causing the blowbacks.. Thanks for the tip mrmastercraft! considerable increase in engine response and low end power now with the whole ignition system and carburetor replaced.

I have been there for that. It's also amazing how well the darn thing will idle with crossed wires.:rolleyes: