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View Full Version : Rear floor PS190 93


dchatagnon
08-21-2005, 05:35 PM
I'm looking to replace my rear floor panel on my boat.
Is it still available through MC? it's pretty hard to find this part specially with the honeycomb stuff...
Any help will be apreciated!

thks.

G-man
08-21-2005, 08:33 PM
A few here have replaced the honeycomp crap with plywood with a coat of resin over it.

MarkP
08-21-2005, 09:06 PM
I'm looking to replace my rear floor panel on my boat.
Is it still available through MC? it's pretty hard to find this part specially with the honeycomb stuff...
Any help will be apreciated!

thks.What did you do to your old one??

G-man
08-22-2005, 10:49 AM
Mark

here's my guess, the bolts that hold the engine cover hinge pulled through. I have seen that on about 6 boats. If larger washers were used it would help. You also have stainless bolts and nuts resting against the alumium and you get a lot of corrosion.

MarkP
08-22-2005, 11:02 AM
Well that would blow. I never really looked at mine even though I had it up to put the depth finder in earlier this season..

Hoosier Bob
08-22-2005, 11:07 AM
My corners did the same thing. I carefully peeled the corners (carpet)back and filled the honeycomb with marine grade epoxy. the corners are perfect and square. After the corners are filled and shaped, re-drill and re-glue the carpet. Much stronger and you'll never know it was repaired. This repair should last longer and be much cheaper than marine grade ply.
PS. I went through two tubes on each corner making sure to fill all of the edges about 5" in either direction. Pack it in the cells and it becomes extremely strong. Use a putty knife to shave the carpet off of the alloy.

east tx skier
08-22-2005, 11:26 AM
I had the bolt pulling through problem with mine. I put a thin strip of plywood across the bottom where the bolts are secured to spread the load and it fixed things right up.

Hoosier Bob sounds like he has a good solution short of replacing it altogether. If I were going to replace it, I'd go George's route. Plywood. Marine epoxy coat. Carpet. Sure, it might rot, but it's cheap and easy to replace (and strong).

jimmer2880
08-22-2005, 12:43 PM
Mark

here's my guess, the bolts that hold the engine cover hinge pulled through. I have seen that on about 6 boats. If larger washers were used it would help. You also have stainless bolts and nuts resting against the alumium and you get a lot of corrosion.

I have that problem on a trailer (alum fenders with ss bolts/nuts). Just go buy some nylon washers to seperate the 2 & you won't have any real problems.

dchatagnon
08-22-2005, 04:30 PM
I think I will go with plywood and resin over it. sounds to be the best solution.
Thanks for all your help.

Damien

James O'Keefe
08-22-2005, 08:33 PM
While we're on the subject, where the rear floor screws to the deck, mine screws were placed in too far and just missed the fiberglass. The were close enough that the outside of the screws grabbed the edge of the fiberglass, so it still holds it in place though(does that make sense??)

Any one else have this problem?

east tx skier
08-23-2005, 11:37 AM
I've got four. They are along the outside edge of the long side of the floor piece.

dchatagnon
03-16-2006, 11:41 AM
last year I did plywood with resion over it but it looks like that now it's way much heavier thant the original floor in Aluminium with honeycomb...
Before this new season , I would like to find again if there is a better solution to replace this original floor....
If anyone of you have another Idea, let me know! ;)

Ric
03-16-2006, 11:50 AM
Fab up a nice piece of aluminum & carpet it, that would be strong. That is how they do them now.

dchatagnon
03-16-2006, 11:54 AM
Ok. Thanks Ric.
Don't you think it would be too heavy, if it's all in aluminium?
So, all the newest MC don't have anymore the honeycomb structure on floor panels?

east tx skier
03-16-2006, 12:36 PM
What about using that white stuff that they make cutting boards out of. Just sandwich a couple of them to get the right thickness. While you're at it, you might want to put a hatch on it so you can adjust the drip rate more easily.

Ric
03-16-2006, 12:53 PM
Ok. Thanks Ric.
Don't you think it would be too heavy, if it's all in aluminium?
So, all the newest MC don't have anymore the honeycomb structure on floor panels?
ya it kinda looks like it's simple aluminum plate that's been fabbed on the corners for strength like the lid on a box and maybe MAYBE it's coated or anodized afterward, I dont know. It looks simple and there is no give to it when you jump on it.

dchatagnon
03-16-2006, 03:15 PM
good idea East TX Skier!
But I have installed this winter a PSS system. So hopefully I won't need to put a hatch to adjust the drip rate! ;)

G-man
03-16-2006, 03:17 PM
Put the inspection plate in that eastie talking about and your friends will think you have a Nautique. I have wondered why they are the only inboard company to offer it.

jeverett
03-17-2006, 02:18 PM
What about using that white stuff that they make cutting boards out of. Just sandwich a couple of them to get the right thickness. While you're at it, you might want to put a hatch on it so you can adjust the drip rate more easily.

That stuff is called UHMW and it is very heavy when you get it that thick and that size. I got a piece of aluminum about 1/8" X 3" and JB welded it to both sides where the holes were that tore through, then drilled new holes good as new. I like the inspection plate Idea though I think that I am going to do that becasue I need to change out the stuffing next time I go out.

east tx skier
03-17-2006, 03:20 PM
Actually, when I did my stuffing, I just unscrewed it, moved the motorbox slightly forward and pulled the floor up. Didn't have to move my motorbox or pull it out or anything.