View Full Version : Need info from 1974

New 74
05-25-2012, 08:13 AM
Hi guys! First post so be gentle. I recently purchased a '74 MasterCraft Skier in need of some
TLC. I've already started the restoration (stringers, floor, normal stuff) but I'm having trouble finding much historical data for the 74 models. I already contact MasterCraft and they said their records don't go back that far but recommended I try you guys. Mostly I want to know what this boat looked like in 74. Somewhere along the lines a PO did a more "modern" paint job and ditched the S&S. Anyone got an album of a correctly restored or stock 74? Also, I was surprised to find a 270 horse Chevy 350 under the hood. Does anyone know if that was standard or some sort of option? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

05-25-2012, 08:17 AM
Read this:


Lots of info on the S&S's. Welcome to TT.

05-25-2012, 08:36 AM
Welcome, you will find a wealth of knowledge here!

I may as well ask before someone else does.....PICTURES PLEASE!!!

New 74
05-25-2012, 08:44 AM
Thanks for the link! The good folks at MasterCraft referred me to that one also. It kinda skips over 74. Maybe nothing changed from 73 to 74? Pretty ignorant here. I think the boat was left fairly original except for paint. Hoping somebody out there will share some pics of a pristine 74 I can use as a guide.

New 74
05-25-2012, 12:37 PM
Here's a picture of the new project. I'll put some more together tonight. I suppose the paint's not too bad but I'd like it to be original when I'm done.

05-25-2012, 01:53 PM
Nice boat. I'd just get out on the water and enjoy that sucker this year. Make it a winter project between next season! No use wasting good lake time working on it :)

05-25-2012, 02:06 PM
Awesome thread here, lots of good info and pictures.

05-25-2012, 04:56 PM
Congrats on the boat. I'd just use it and have some fun. I don't think that the effort to restore to original will be worth it. I'd look into buyng one that is closer to original condition if you want original. Nice boat thought with a lot of fun to be had

05-25-2012, 05:34 PM
Should be some useful pictures in here


05-25-2012, 10:41 PM
I will help you as much as I can. I have restored a boat built in November 1972, sold new in 1973. It has the Chevy power plant as well. Marinized by OMC I believe. You will find the help on here somewhat limited. There is just not that many out there and the information if available has not really surfaced. These early boats were built to the tune of approx 35-50 boats per year. Production finally ramped up to approx 300 boats per year in 1976. It is also my understanding that Rob Shirley took most of these early boats on the road and sold them at tournaments. Pricing was approx 5885.00. Many of these early boats may have had some famous feet from the ski tourny world in and out of them (really no way to know, but likely). It also appears that MC was experiment or using what engines that were available to them. I have seen or read about Fords, Chevy, and Chrysler Marine engines.

I also own a 1970 that I will start on soon. This is pre stars and stripes boat. It has a Chrysler 340 power plant. It is thought by Jim K of BAWS long time MC dealer that this is the 2nd oldest MC to exist.

Your trailer looks original. Love the period Slot Mags. You should be able to see what original carpet was in the boat by looking in the battery area or under the rear view mirror. They lined these with carpet remnants. I have posted a pic of my 1973 it is an early wraparound seat boat. This was not common until much later like 1976. It is factory gelcoat. My other boat has the more standard seating.

Some knucklehead clear coated my 1972/3 boat with automotive clear coat. It looked like it had leprosy, the carpet, interior vinyl, and decals were all wrong. I knew it was a special boat and put it back proper. The boat had already been restrung. I stripped and wet sanded about 60 hours and buffed it. Looks nice. These boats had no mufflers, straight hose. Loud as heck.....part of the magic. It will give you a new experience on the shortline slalom. LOL

Best of luck See my pics below.

05-25-2012, 10:43 PM
My 1970 will be decaled like the brochure pic. It also has the longer pylon as does the one in the brochure.

05-25-2012, 10:48 PM
Also swim platforms did not really appear until 1976. It had been added to my red boat. Really handy. I have skied behind the 1970 and attempted to get back in. You can't hardly do it without help. Nice addition to any year. Also hear is a link to a 1975 on youtube. It will show you the proper interior pattern. You should be able to get some stills from the video with screen capture and take it to your interior person for reference. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HIDfNwDJNY

05-25-2012, 10:53 PM
Here is the 1970. It had been painted with automotive paint. I have stripped it and it is getting ready to go to the shop for a re-gel. The stringers are solid and it is complete. It just had been crudely made over. If it was not a 1970, I would not go to the trouble. The boat runs good and is truly deafening to ski behind. That 340 Chrylser really talks.

05-26-2012, 02:07 AM
One last thought. be super careful when removing the windshield, not an easy task. There are two small threaded shafts that up in the gunnels where it wraps around. Nearly impossible to see or get to. You will think you have the windshield loose and it will not be. It is possible you could crack it. Would be very tricky to find another. I look forward to hearing from you.

New 74
05-26-2012, 07:57 AM
Wish i had gotten the advice about not starting resto till Winter about two weeks ago!
The floor was pretty soft so I figured "hey that can't be too bad to fix"
Rotten floor removal showed me the rotten stringer and rotten subfloor (not sure of the proper term here)

Thanks a bunch for the pics! Those are all some AWESOME BOATS. Maybe one day this one will be worthy.

Currently the stringer replacement is about 90% as is the subfloor. Just need to put down some more glass. I think I'll take the advice and put her in the water once the floor's back in. No need working on the outside during the summer.

Again thanks for the info & pics. Now back to work.

New 74
05-26-2012, 08:01 AM
THANK YOU. I was goofing around with that last night. Kept looking at it going "man that can't be all that holds this thing on!" I almost convinced myself it was glued down and was about ready to start pulling. I'll find the bolts.

05-26-2012, 10:55 AM
That's not pressure treated wood you used on the stringer is it? Fiberglas won't stick to it.

New 74
05-26-2012, 01:21 PM
It is treated but it's old. Been drying for a while in the top of the barn. I did a test spot to start with and pulled up wood fibers up after the resin dried so I went with it. It soaked in resin as I brushed it on. Think I messed up?

05-26-2012, 02:48 PM
You do not want to use pressure treated pine. Find you some DF or some cypress. Then some good epoxy like System 3 to secure it to the floor and the encapsulate it with the System 3 and cloth. JMO but if you do a little research you will find that encapsulating treated pine, in a boat is a big no no.

05-26-2012, 02:52 PM
If you have not done it already...split the stinger open and pull out the old wood. Only remove the top of the stringer. Leave the glassed sides intact and use them as a pattern. That way you can coat the new stringer with resin then lock it in place by only having to encase the top of the stringer....try it it works. You can clean the current fiberglass with acetone and coat that with resin then add a layer of glass if needed!!!

[email protected]

New 74
05-27-2012, 09:02 PM
You do not want to use pressure treated pine. Find you some DF or some cypress. Then some good epoxy like System 3 to secure it to the floor and the encapsulate it with the System 3 and cloth. JMO but if you do a little research you will find that encapsulating treated pine, in a boat is a big no no.

Did a little reading on this. Many opinions out there but the majority seems to be not to use it. Only problem is its already in there an I don't want to pull it back out. I'm not sure I see what the big deal is. Even if it didn't bond it's bolted to the pylon mount and the engine. It's bedded in resin on the bottom and capped on the top. Is the concern that'll warp and bust the glass? Not being argumentative, just need a really good reason to go back to cutting.

05-27-2012, 10:20 PM
It is my understanding that the chemical used to pressure treat the wood sort of fights or conflicts with the fiberglass resin and the hardener. This is not a scientific explanation but it does not allow for the materials to dry to specification. The glassed stringers are bonded to the hull with the glass. Yes, the engine and pylon are bolted down. Overtime if the stringers are not fully bonded to the hull the engine, pylon frame, and stringers could come loose. If shifting occurs you could have issues with shaft and engine alignment causing operation issues and excess wear and tear. Worst case scenario, it all moved as one unit. The pressure put on by a skier or wake boarder is phenomenal. A power turn would be a major no no.

I am sure others would or will have much to add and more scientific/technical explanations. Just my thoughts. Hope all goes well for you.