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View Full Version : Advice for new owner of 96 Prostar 190 w/ LT1


Prostarski190
05-20-2012, 02:24 PM
I've recently purchased a 96 Prostar 190 with LT1, and I'm assuming the powerslot (Hurth HSW Model 450 A2 1.5) transmission. It also came with original MasterCraft single axle trailer. It's a one owner with 301 hours, white hull with black striping, and teal trim stripe. The hull is solid and gel coat is in good shape with no major damage. It has oxidation and will need to be washed, buffed, and waxed. The interior will need to be replaced as the boat has been sitting outside uncovered and neglected. The engine ran for several minutes, connected to water hose before I purchased. It sounded good but did seem to idle high 1000-1100 rpm, temp never went above 160. I didn't do a test drive due to weather. I have been reading on TT, Indmar, and other sources but need definitive advice on how to proceed in the best possible way. I want to get the most out of my time and money I'm about to invest.
** * I have several questions I need help with and I'm hoping and encouraging all TT members to help and advise me on the journey.*
Questions I need answers to initially
1) what oil to use? The boat is currently running some type of synthetic. Possibly Amsoil, Castrol Edge or Pennzoil Platinum. Seller not sure. I've read several different opinions here, but I'd like to know facts. The Indmar manual recommends Napa Gold 1042 for LS1. Do they mean for the LT1 or is this another engine? I also know Chevrolet put Mobile 1 Synthetic in their auto Corvette LT1's before leaving the factory.*
2) What transmission fluid for the*Hurth HSW Model 450 A2 1.5? Indmar recommends Pennzoil Type A Dexron II, Dexron III, or Dexron/Mercon, 2.12 qts (2L). I'm not sure what's currently in there but I'm assuming it's never been changed. So what would be the best for me to use? I also discovered there is a filter inside this transmission? Has anyone ever changed their filter?
3) what spark plugs should I use and what is recommended gap? Indmar recommends AC41-931 for LS1 engine. Once again is this the LT1 engine? The Indmar manual I'm reading is for 94-02 models.
*
These are some immediate questions I'd like help with before I even crank the engine and get it on the lake for test drive. I'll also replace the two known fuel filters.
What else would you recommend I do before starting and running? It's supposedly has a new impeller but will check to be sure. Would it be wise to change the thermostats especially with temperatures around 85 here in Tennessee? And for now, I have several photos ready for posting but I'm not sure if I can post from IPhone or IPad. Does anyone know if there's an app that can assist with posting pics on TT?*
Please be patient as this may be a slow process as free time and money is limited.
I'm excited about becoming a TT member and look forward to the advice and learning along the way.*

Lumbergh
05-20-2012, 02:40 PM
Congrats on your new toy!

Pics are a must.

www.photobucket.com is super easy. Just create a free account and point and click.

ricford
05-20-2012, 02:54 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/files/manuals/1995_OwnersManual-PS190-PS205-ProSport205.pdf
This is a link to the specific owner's manual for your boat I think. I know it says 1995, but they are identical. I have the same boat with 1:1 transmission. Manual recommends 20W-50 oil. I use Castrol GTX.
If your temp is running around 160, there is no need to change the thermostats, but I would check/change the impeller. It's cheap and easy to do. I change mine every season.

tideengineer
05-20-2012, 08:25 PM
Welcome...I have exact boat...mine is navy. I have learned so much here on forum. Pay close attention and you will save money and your boat.

billr
05-20-2012, 08:58 PM
Spark Plugs Type Aluminum Cylinder Head AC MR43LTS Spark Plugs Type Cast Iron Cylinder Head AC MR43T Recomended Plug Gap 0.045" Transmission Oil Capacity 2-1/2 to 3 qts. with 1.5:1 Transmission Type: Dextron II

oxberger
05-21-2012, 04:34 PM
Where in TN are you? I'd willing to help out with any repairs or with the test drive in you need help. I have an '85 SS so I'm not too familiar with some of the things you're asking about for you boat, but I am mechanically inclined. Congrats on the purchase and becoming a member!

lt14me
05-21-2012, 04:46 PM
Same engine in my '93 maristar 225. I use 15w-40 Rotella oil with Napa Gold filter 1042 I believe is the number cross referenced to the PZ-3 penzoil filter. Plugs are as stated ac delco mr43lts marine plugs for aluminum heads. .045 gap as stated, and dexron iii..... good luck and congrats

Table Rocker
05-21-2012, 06:36 PM
As you have probably figured out, the LS1 is a different engine than the LT1.

Prostarski190
05-22-2012, 09:04 AM
I want to thank everyone who's responded so far. In less than 24 hours I've learned what type of oil and weight to use, type of transmission fluid recommended, and which spark plugs to use depending on aluminum heads or cast heads. Can anyone tell me how to determine if I have aluminum or cast iron heads?

Prostarski190
05-22-2012, 09:07 AM
As you have probably figured out, the LS1 is a different engine than the LT1.

Table Rocker, I sort of figured that but thanks for confirming. The Indmar manual I was looking at only listed the LS1, go figure.

Prostarski190
05-22-2012, 09:13 AM
Where in TN are you? I'd willing to help out with any repairs or with the test drive in you need help. I have an '85 SS so I'm not too familiar with some of the things you're asking about for you boat, but I am mechanically inclined. Congrats on the purchase and becoming a member!

Oxberger, thank you for the offer and I may just take you up on it. I live in Franklin, just south of Nashville. I love the older S&S but haven't been in one for many years.

Prostarski190
05-22-2012, 09:16 AM
Congrats on your new toy!

Pics are a must.

www.photobucket.com is super easy. Just create a free account and point and click.

Lumbergh, still trying to figure the picture post out. I was able to post on photobucket but now I need to figure out how to transfer to TT. Keep in mind everything I do is on my iPhone. Thanks

billr
05-22-2012, 11:18 AM
Try a magnet on the heads. It won't stick to aluminum. I put both references up because they were in the manual. I've had a hard time finding the MR43LTS plugs because the are discontinued, but they are out there. Advance Auto Parts had some, new old stock.

Prostarski190
05-22-2012, 08:12 PM
http://m1257.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Prostarski/1337727446.jpg.html?o=0

I've posted photos at photobucket and I'm hoping by listing the address here TT members can go there and see the boat. This may be my best option until I figure out how to post on TT.

I have a major concern that I just discovered. It appears that on the right side of the engine block at the water temp sending unit some type of patching has been done. I peeled away some of the patchwork with a flat head screw driver and it flakes off like gasket type material. It also looks like water is leaking at the sending unit. I posted photos at photobucket and hopefully I can get some advice asap. Should I peel off all the patchwork and take out the sending unit so I can see what's under there. The oil doesn't appear to have water in it. Keep in mind the boat was hooked up to a hose when I purchased and only ran for 5-10 min. There was no test drive because of bad weather. Thanks

Lumbergh
05-22-2012, 08:49 PM
Here you go:

http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr66/Lumbergh556/1337541967-1.jpg

http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr66/Lumbergh556/1337541966.jpg

Looks like you have some work on your hands!

Prostarski190
05-22-2012, 10:18 PM
I just discovered new plugs and an oil change are the least of my concerns. Had a few hours to give the engine a good eye balling today and was surprised to find what looks like a shotty patch job on a cracked engine block. So instead of preparing for an oil change and new plugs I decided to fire the engine up. It has a water flush hook up so I hooked up the hose and cranked the engine. It fired right up, which was nice, but as I investigated the patch work I noticed water leaking. The right side exhaust manifold is dripping water as well but that's a cheap and easy fix compared to replacing the block. At this point I'm not sure what I should do. As far as I can tell there's no water in the oil, but I only ran it for a few minutes. The engine sounded awesome but did seem to idle high at 1100 rpms. The temp gauge either doesn't work or I didn't run it long enough as it never moved above the 120. I need advice, any and all welcome. Thanks

Prostarski190
05-22-2012, 10:35 PM
Here you go:

http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr66/Lumbergh556/1337541967-1.jpg

http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr66/Lumbergh556/1337541966.jpg

Looks like you have some work on your hands!

More than you know! Thanks for putting up the photos.

Jerseydave
05-23-2012, 04:57 AM
http://m1257.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Prostarski/1337727446.jpg.html?o=0

I've posted photos at photobucket and I'm hoping by listing the address here TT members can go there and see the boat. This may be my best option until I figure out how to post on TT.

I have a major concern that I just discovered. It appears that on the right side of the engine block at the water temp sending unit some type of patching has been done. I peeled away some of the patchwork with a flat head screw driver and it flakes off like gasket type material. It also looks like water is leaking at the sending unit. I posted photos at photobucket and hopefully I can get some advice asap. Should I peel off all the patchwork and take out the sending unit so I can see what's under there. The oil doesn't appear to have water in it. Keep in mind the boat was hooked up to a hose when I purchased and only ran for 5-10 min. There was no test drive because of bad weather. Thanks

That's not your water temp sensor in that pic, it's the knock sensor. And yes it looks like the block was repaired there, poorly. Maybe take the boat to a welding shop and let them have a look? It could have cracked from freezing and not being winterized. Perhaps a more permanent weld job will take care of it?

Prostarski190
05-23-2012, 08:52 AM
That's not your water temp sensor in that pic, it's the knock sensor. And yes it looks like the block was repaired there, poorly. Maybe take the boat to a welding shop and let them have a look? It could have cracked from freezing and not being winterized. Perhaps a more permanent weld job will take care of it?

Jerseydave thanks for the advice. What exactly is a knock sensor and what does it do? Also have you or anyone else here at TT had a cracked block repaired successfully? Thanks

Jerseydave
05-23-2012, 10:07 PM
The knock sensor tells the computer if the engine is detonating and retards the timing to help prevent engine damage.

I don't have any 1st hand experience with cracked blocks, I see others have chimed in to your other thread about it. My guess would be nothing will take the place of just replacing your engine block, but perhaps welding is worth a try? Ask some drag race guys or hi-perf engine builders.

I hope you got a screaming deal on the boat just in case an engine is in your future.

Prostarski190
05-23-2012, 11:18 PM
The knock sensor tells the computer if the engine is detonating and retards the timing to help prevent engine damage.

I don't have any 1st hand experience with cracked blocks, I see others have chimed in to your other thread about it. My guess would be nothing will take the place of just replacing your engine block, but perhaps welding is worth a try? Ask some drag race guys or hi-perf engine builders.

I hope you got a screaming deal on the boat just in case an engine is in your future.

Thanks again JD. I'm continuing to weigh options.

Thrall
05-24-2012, 12:04 AM
I used to weld together cracked landscaping equipment engine and gear box housings and it worked fine. Never did a car or boat engine, but I'd first run it and make sure you don't have bigger problems. (JB weld it and take it to the lake.) Then get it welded.
The hundred bucks or so you pay to get it welded up will either be a huge savings or a drop in the bucket compared to replacing the block. No pun intended.

If it's sat for a long time, appears it has, I'd replace the thermostats first. LT-1 engines are reverse cooling with aluminum heads and more susceptible to head damage if it overheats. Note the 160 T stat on top has a bleed hole in it. EIther buy the correct marine specific parts, or drill the same hole in an automotive stat.

93ProStar205
05-24-2012, 09:42 AM
Would post a pic of the damaged area. That tends to get the creativity flowing on fixes.