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View Full Version : 2007 X2 Won't start and electrical gremlins


93Prostar190
05-16-2012, 01:49 PM
Hi everyone ... working with my friend today on his new to him X2 2007.

Yesterday evening the boat would run fine but the Starboard Ballast pump stopped working. Flashed the error code that the AI module had lost contact with the pump.

Today the engine turns over and does not fire .. .almost like there was no fuel pressure or the kill switch was disconnected .... we have not tested fuel pressure yet .... funny thing is the ECU warning is flashing on his dash gauge and we have lost the fuel gauge. it does not read anything ....

He has also noticed his stereo and amp have not been right for the past 2 weeks but was not sure it was related.

Tested with another battery ... same result. Cleaned the ground at the engine by the ECM area ..... we are going to clean the battery terminals and check that out ....

proceeding to test the electrical connections here in a little while ...

My question is ... any other thoughts, places to check .... almost feels like the ECU is not working but my brain is telling me voltage drop or electrical problem.

Any one want to chime in ? Thanks in advance.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-16-2012, 01:56 PM
You are on the right track. When weird electrical things are going on, it's almost always just a matter of finding what ground isn't doing it's job.

MattsCraft
05-16-2012, 04:19 PM
Rob - Sounds like the fuel pump took a dump, no expert on this, but when you crank it can you smell fuel, possibly pull a plug and check, if not that then definatly spark, and could be the cap and rotor. Also on the X2, there is an entire distribution block behind the dash, access is on the Starboard bow side seat behind a kick panel that you have to remove.

93Prostar190
05-16-2012, 08:16 PM
Ok ... more data ... if we connect 12V directly to the fuel pump ... we can pressurize the fuel rail ... I heard the whirring of the pump and by gauge we saw 60 psi ....

We had an extra relay for the fuel pump .... we tried it ...... no change ... it almost feels like nothing from the ecu for spark, fuel or anything ....

Any way to test the ECU and make sure it is working or responding?

mikeg205
05-16-2012, 08:19 PM
I would give JimN a PM on that one...

mtajpa
05-16-2012, 08:32 PM
Check the boat plug connector at the engine. Be sure it is plugged in all the way and connections look good it is the main link between the engine and dash. Also check the grounds at the engine block from the battery and other things like the ECM. Good luck.

93Prostar190
05-16-2012, 09:14 PM
Grounds seem good ... we check the grounding block at the dash to the battery < .4 ohms
Ground engine to battery < .4 ohm
Test Positive and Neg side at the starter side of the engine < .4 ohm

Seems ok to me ...... just can seem to get the computer to do its thing with the fuel pump or spark .... dash display flashes ECU ... ECU ......

93Prostar190
05-16-2012, 09:15 PM
Check the boat plug connector at the engine. Be sure it is plugged in all the way and connections look good it is the main link between the engine and dash. Also check the grounds at the engine block from the battery and other things like the ECM. Good luck.

Checked the main connector .... looked ok .... re-seated ... very clean .....

JimN
05-16-2012, 11:54 PM
Grounds seem good ... we check the grounding block at the dash to the battery < .4 ohms
Ground engine to battery < .4 ohm
Test Positive and Neg side at the starter side of the engine < .4 ohm

Seems ok to me ...... just can seem to get the computer to do its thing with the fuel pump or spark .... dash display flashes ECU ... ECU ......

.4 Ohms is too much.

Make sure the ground post at the rear of the engine is clean and tight, none of the wires has been damaged and all of the terminals are in good condition. These can rust, and that can definitely cause this kind of problem. The ECM, sensors and relays are grounded there, too.

Does your engine have a distributor? If not, look at the crank sensors- these tell the ECM if/how fast the engine is turning over and if the ECM doesn't see the correct info, it won't latch the relay for the fuel pump.

mtajpa
05-17-2012, 01:44 AM
Is it possible the fuses to the ignition and the fuel pump are blown?

On your ohm meter it sounds like you may have .4 ohms lead resistance. All ohm measurements should start with touching the test probes together and subtracting this resistance measurement from your actual measurements.

93Prostar190
05-17-2012, 06:04 AM
We have checked the breakers and none of them are blown including the ones under the dash and the side of the engine.

If you point me to other fuses, I would be happy to check them.

I am going to check resistance on my boat today for comparison .......

We did clean the ground at the engine ..... I ll post more data .... Thank you for the responses so far.

JimN
05-17-2012, 08:36 AM
We have checked the breakers and none of them are blown including the ones under the dash and the side of the engine.

If you point me to other fuses, I would be happy to check them.

I am going to check resistance on my boat today for comparison .......

We did clean the ground at the engine ..... I ll post more data .... Thank you for the responses so far.

Only the ground? Follow the positive and ground cables from the battery to their other ends, checking and cleaning all connections. If you see corrosion on them, it's an indication that the motor cover wasn't opened for ventilation when it should have been or water was allowed to collect in the bilge.

Any fuses will be obvious if you look at the engine. They don't hide them because that makes it hard to fix the problem quickly. If you don't have a multi-meter, get one and learn how to use it- it can be your best friend when looking for problems like this. You don't need to spend a lot- the cheap ones work fine. I have used meters from Fluke, Beckman, Radio Shack, Tenma and a $3 one from Harbor Freight- they all worked well.

The end of mtajpa's post is very important.

93Prostar190
05-17-2012, 09:44 AM
Hey everyone ... just to clarify ... pretty handy with a multi-meter ...

Our lead resistance on our Multi-Meter was .4 ohms ... so all our tests were very clean ... 0 ohm resistance ...
- We test grounds and also positive whereever possible. Same result .... all our tests were back to the battery terminals as well ....

I am not sure I have found or looked for a FUSE for the fuel pump ... if someone can direct me to the location of that it would be great ....

JimN
05-17-2012, 09:55 AM
Hey everyone ... just to clarify ... pretty handy with a multi-meter ...

Our lead resistance on our Multi-Meter was .4 ohms ... so all our tests were very clean ... 0 ohm resistance ...
- We test grounds and also positive whereever possible. Same result .... all our tests were back to the battery terminals as well ....

I am not sure I have found or looked for a FUSE for the fuel pump ... if someone can direct me to the location of that it would be great ....

Do you know how to do a voltage drop test? You put one lead at the battery post (not the terminal), then check at each connection or terminal. You'll see a voltage from the battery post to the cable clamp, then you go to the next connection/terminal. Note all voltages and look for changes as you go. If you see anything that seems drastic, check/clean/replace that terminal. You'll have to disconnect the plug that connects the boat harness to the engine harness- make sure you don't have any corrosion on the pins.

Also, the battery cable goes directly to the starter- make sure the nuts are tight, but don't just crank them tighter without checking- the studs are in Bakelite, which is incredibly brittle. You'll see a thinner red wire connected to the solenoid's studs- these go to the main power harness to the dash and the one that's not on the battery side, goes to the ignition during cranking. Make sure you have voltage on that wire at this time.

CantRepeat
05-17-2012, 10:26 AM
If you see corrosion on them, it's an indication that the motor cover wasn't opened for ventilation when it should have been or water was allowed to collect in the bilge.


I wish more boaters understood this. Boats are designed to be wet on the bottom, not on inside. Opening your engine hatch at the end of the day to let everything dry out is always a good thing.

mtajpa
05-17-2012, 11:40 AM
Hey everyone ... just to clarify ... pretty handy with a multi-meter ...

Our lead resistance on our Multi-Meter was .4 ohms ... so all our tests were very clean ... 0 ohm resistance ...
- We test grounds and also positive whereever possible. Same result .... all our tests were back to the battery terminals as well ....

I am not sure I have found or looked for a FUSE for the fuel pump ... if someone can direct me to the location of that it would be great ....

I'm not sure about the location of the fuses on the x2 but they should be near the relays and ecm here is a picture of what they look like on my ltr. They also have a label on them as to what they are.

Is you ecm covered mine was not and got a bunch of corrosion inside the connectors you can check that also.

Hope this helps.

93Prostar190
05-17-2012, 12:55 PM
Hi everyone .... just an update ... on my MCX 2008 and on his MCX (2007) no obvious fuses to check .... the My buddy Josh is checking the other connections now .... more in a while ...if I am wrong the on the fuses then let me know ..... but I don't see them and I can spot the other fuses especially at the dash.

93Prostar190
05-17-2012, 02:24 PM
We found some fuses in the harness just under the fuel pump relay .... 3 (20 amp) fuses ... 1 was blown .... fuel gauge and fuel pump are back ....... thank you everyone! We are alive!!!!!

MattsCraft
05-17-2012, 05:37 PM
:dance::woohoo::toast:

Great job Rob, glad you got it fixed!!!

JimN
05-17-2012, 05:51 PM
I'm not sure about the location of the fuses on the x2 but they should be near the relays and ecm here is a picture of what they look like on my ltr. They also have a label on them as to what they are.

Is you ecm covered mine was not and got a bunch of corrosion inside the connectors you can check that also.

Hope this helps.

That shot of the corroded pins in the ECM- that's the 2007 boat? MC needs to hear about that- it's the same issue they had in 1999 because they didn't cover the ECM as it sits under the gap in the cushions. Call them ASAP and tell them about this thread so they can see the same photo.

mtajpa
05-17-2012, 07:21 PM
That shot of the corroded pins in the ECM- that's the 2007 boat? MC needs to hear about that- it's the same issue they had in 1999 because they didn't cover the ECM as it sits under the gap in the cushions. Call them ASAP and tell them about this thread so they can see the same photo.

That is NOT the 2007 boat it was my 99 Maristar that never had a cover over the ECM. At least when I got it anyway.

CantRepeat
05-17-2012, 07:33 PM
I love a happy ending!

93Prostar190
07-24-2012, 06:43 PM
Hey guys .... Same boat is now blowing fuel pump relays ..... Any tips .... Going to check grounds now .......

JimN
07-24-2012, 07:25 PM
Hey guys .... Same boat is now blowing fuel pump relays ..... Any tips .... Going to check grounds now .......

It's launching relays? That's really odd. Pull the pugs from the ECM and look at the pins again- if they're missing, it will be due to the water getting in. Look at this link for the pins- they may match yours, but my manual isn't in a convenient place at the moment, so I can't look. You'll have to scroll down to see the locations and numbers.

http://www.monodax.com/forums/tunercat-jet-obdii-hardware-software/1764-gm-mefi-controllers.html

93Prostar190
07-24-2012, 10:02 PM
Jim,

We found it ... The spade on the harness side of the fuel pump relay harness for pin 30 was bent and it looks like we were arcing a bit ..... The connection was bad .... Not the relays .... On one relay we saw the melted plastic ..... Around pin 30 .... Fixed the spade and made a better connection and the engine is running perfect.... We will water test more tomorrow butwe just did asurf session and we are back to new.