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View Full Version : Rear of Trailer too low for comfort


h2oskifreak
05-15-2012, 12:05 PM
I have a new to me 1994 190 with a single axel MC Trailer. The rear of the trailer is too low. I drag it going through drain pans and over curbs. I dropped the hitch some and it helped very little. The tires on it now are 175/205/14 although it had 175/215/14's prior and they needed replaced, so I took the 205's off my 75 Stars on a temp basis. I am buying tires this week and wonder what I should buy? I called a trailer shop to see what might be done with the axel and they said they could "flip it", but the springs are already on top. Any suggestions for me? Last evening I fully notived how suceptable the prop and shaft are in this current position. Thanks in advance.

mzimme
05-15-2012, 12:08 PM
You could fab up a prop guard with rollers if you don't already have one, or raise it using different leafs and/or shackles.

Ski-me
05-15-2012, 12:14 PM
Did all that and mine works great now.

- Added a leaf into the spring pack and it looks just fine.
- Added some skid wheels off the back end and anything I do hit, just rolls and also does not mark up my driveway

Try lowering your tongue a little with a lower hitch. This might gain you a little more out of the back end.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-15-2012, 12:16 PM
Your tire size numbers are out of whack. They should be 205/75R14 or similar. Double-check the actual tire size. I will be happy to help you figure out how tall a tire you can fit.
Additionally, getting the trailer tongue horizontal if important in how well your trailer will pull. this trailer came from the factory set up nicely - probably just need to undo what the previous owner did.

SilviaMan
05-15-2012, 12:16 PM
did you drag the rudder?
Not sure how much change you did by dropping the hitch.
on the F350 we have a 6" drop (IIRC) to get the back of the trailer up.
Pretty sure I have a 4" drop for the chevy 1500.

mikeg205
05-15-2012, 12:21 PM
Make sure trailer is level at tongue...as well..my 2 cents....

east tx skier
05-15-2012, 12:35 PM
Here are your options (some recapped from above).

Skid wheels. I recommend these (http://www.pakindustries.com/marine.html) if you don't have issues with your driveway. Otherwise, definitely go for some uglier poly rollers so you don't ruin the driveway. Don't mount them entirely underneath the prop guard. You'll lose even more clearance. As you can see in the picture below, we put them on angle brackets on the side of the prop guard and have them just below the guard. This worked well. We also beefed up the prop guard in the process.

You can replace the leaf springs. They tend to sag over time.

You can add lifting blocks between the axle and the spring. I had 2" blocks fabbed up for mine. Had the axle aligned and the pins welded in place so there was no chance of my dropping the trailer off the ramp and dragging things apart. Did not affect the ride of the trailer on the highway or the loading depth in the water in any noticeable way.

Finally, as you probably have seen, ball height doesn't do much. Just make sure it's level.

My rollers installed on my 93 trailer.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dCBlkmgyTck/S4MAk_RBQfI/AAAAAAAACtg/gkNsBXSYj9U/s650/Prop%2520guard%2520and%2520rollers.jpg

Good luck.

BrooksfamX2
05-15-2012, 12:42 PM
2"-3" spacer block between axel and springs and taller tires may help.......

kyfooter
05-15-2012, 12:55 PM
I would be very cautious going with any tire larger than what was originally intended. Doing so might help with ground clearance (very slightly) but the downside is your tire will also ride much closer to your fenders. Prior owner had done this on my Sanger and my fender (metal) cut the tires.

I like the idea of going with a 2" block between the axle and the spring. I also like the rollers using east tx skier's design. Very sharp.

h2oskifreak
05-15-2012, 01:03 PM
No rudder drag yet (thank goodness). I like the idea of the 2" block. The wheels on the drag bar are a good idea as well, protect the trailer but would not raise things (my intention). MR. MC (Peter) What tire size do you recommend? 205's or 215's on this 94 trailer?

thatsmrmastercraft
05-15-2012, 01:05 PM
correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't a 1994 190 with a single axel MC Trailer have 15" wheels?

mzimme
05-15-2012, 01:25 PM
Personally, I wouldn't use blocks to lift the trailer from the axle. Instead, go about it the correct way and add leafs and/or get extended shackles that will give more clearance. Blocks are just iffy in most applications.

BrooksfamX2
05-15-2012, 01:38 PM
Personally, I wouldn't use blocks to lift the trailer from the axle. Instead, go about it the correct way and add leafs and/or get extended shackles that will give more clearance. Blocks are just iffy in most applications.

Blocks are used in many truck and jeep lift applications very successfully. Shackles are not as stable and have a tendency to rack (tilt, lean sideways) when cornering. Shackles are soooo sixties....IMHO......

O2BESOHUGE
05-15-2012, 01:51 PM
I Went To 15 Inch Wheels And Tires On My Trailer And It Helped A Little...MINE IS A 1991 THOUGH

mzimme
05-15-2012, 01:57 PM
Blocks are used in many truck and jeep lift applications very successfully. Shackles are not as stable and have a tendency to rack (tilt, lean sideways) when cornering. Shackles are soooo sixties....IMHO......

Trucks maybe, but not Jeeps (or at least in the Cherokee world). Axle wrap is a huge problem when using blocks in Jeeps. I have a lifted Jeep, and that was one thing I was very cautioned to stay away from.

Now, axle wrap probably wont be much of a problem on a boat trailer since there's no power to to the axle, but if that axle ever starts bouncing, I'd much rather have a longer shackle that is BOLTED to the leafs than some block that's wedged in there between some U-bolts.

I'm not sure what is 60's about shackles... extended shackles are a VERY common way to get another 1.5 or more of lift out of a leaf spring setup.

Jim@BAWS
05-15-2012, 02:23 PM
2"-3" spacer block between axel and springs and taller tires may help.......

Exactly what I would recommend

Jim@BAWS

Farmer Ted
05-15-2012, 02:53 PM
what if you don't have leaf springs?

mzimme
05-15-2012, 03:11 PM
what if you don't have leaf springs?

Just get coil spacers. Is your trailer really on coils??

thatsmrmastercraft
05-15-2012, 03:39 PM
Just get coil spacers. Is your trailer really on coils??

Torsion springs.:jumping:

east tx skier
05-15-2012, 04:40 PM
Personally, I wouldn't use blocks to lift the trailer from the axle. Instead, go about it the correct way and add leafs and/or get extended shackles that will give more clearance. Blocks are just iffy in most applications.

The guy that did mine modifies travel trailers for a living. Agree that it sounds iffy. But done correctly, it works well. Again, use steel, align the axle, weld the pins in place.

I dropped my trailer off the back of a ramp once and was very glad I paid someone to do things right. Never a bit of trouble with this setup.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-15-2012, 04:43 PM
The guy that did mine modifies travel trailers for a living. Agree that it sounds iffy. But done correctly, it works well. Again, use steel, align the axle, weld the pins in place.

I dropped my trailer off the back of a ramp once and was very glad I paid someone to do things right. Never a bit of trouble with this setup.

Nothing good ever comes from having your trailer in too deep.

boxman3
05-15-2012, 05:05 PM
2" spacer blocks and new u-bolts -- no more draging!!!

east tx skier
05-15-2012, 05:21 PM
2" spacer blocks and new u-bolts -- no more draging!!!

It'll still drag going from an incline to a flat surface. It just won't hit nearly as often under normal driving conditions.

Honestly, I'd just suggest some poly rollers and be done with it. They'll hit a lot, but you won't care.

east tx skier
05-15-2012, 05:23 PM
Nothing good ever comes from having your trailer in too deep.

It may not surprise you to hear that trailers are not exactly easy to lift back onto the ramp where there is a two foot vertical drop off.

But it can be done with two people in the water and one nice wife keeping a little tension on the tires with her foot on the gas.


Now, ask me how I got my old boat back on the trailer when the rear of the bunks were just above the water?

Answer. I drove it on. Glad there was some give in those leaf springs and some wax on the bunk carpet.

thatsmrmastercraft
05-15-2012, 05:29 PM
It may not surprise you to hear that trailers are not exactly easy to lift back onto the ramp where there is a two foot vertical drop off.

But it can be done with two people in the water and one nice wife keeping a little tension on the tires with her foot on the gas.


Now, ask me how I got my old boat back on the trailer when the rear of the bunks were just above the water?

Answer. I drove it on. Glad there was some give in those leaf springs and some wax on the bunk carpet.

Been there myself............not to that extreme, though. Come to think of it, I bent the axle on the fishing boat getting it back up on the ramp once.

Ski-me
05-15-2012, 06:00 PM
I've made it through the first leg and had a new leave added to increase the height by 2". It's much better now but still not quite able to get it into the driveway. I ordered some rollers from the trailer site in CA and should have them in a few days. If I did want to, I could get some larger tires to help even more but I do have to keep the "wants" away from the "needs".....

Before:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v69/nielson2020/69e2_3.jpg

After:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v69/nielson2020/IMG_1552.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v69/nielson2020/IMG_1553.jpg

charrison327
05-15-2012, 06:13 PM
can't really help with the other mods because i'm going to start doing some of those this coming off season. however, as far as tire size, i have a 96 single axle and mine are 205-75-14. just ordered and installed a new set of maxxis on my trailer.

Ski-me
05-15-2012, 06:14 PM
And a thread where I installed the poly wheels......

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=29930&page=2

h2oskifreak
05-15-2012, 07:43 PM
They are 14 inch wheels. I have an appt with a guy w/ 35 years exp. next Thurs. this is all good info.
I appreciate it very much. I am going in with an open mind to his suggestion, but will have a better idea of what I really end up telling him to do because of this input. As always this site is invaluable.

Jerseydave
05-15-2012, 08:16 PM
215/75R14 tires
2" spacer blocks between axle and spring
roller drag wheels on the prop guard
keep trailer level (looks good in your 2nd pic)

O2BESOHUGE
05-16-2012, 12:09 PM
Hitch Point Was Too High In Your First Pic...looks Way Better Now!

Ski-me
05-16-2012, 12:29 PM
Hitch Point Was Too High In Your First Pic...looks Way Better Now!

That's actually my trailer at the Pawn Shop before buying it and then after I placed the new springs. (Not H2Oskifreaks's).....

I think they were just using a forklift in that first photo to move it around the lot.

h2oskifreak
05-31-2012, 10:07 AM
OK, got the trailer fixed by adding 2" blocks (welded) between the axel and springs. Also new heavier duty u bolts makes me more comfortable than the skinny ones that were stock. New 215 tires helped lift a little as well. I know some will care, they are Did all 3 (spare as well for) $325.00
Have my "certified inspection" from CO State Patrol in 13 days, can't imagine they can find anything to bust my hump over, buy you know those law guys...might depend on how many dougnuts he had or didn't get that day (popo's not my fav. peeps seen way too many jerks giving a good profession a bad name in my lifetime). Anyway, I am happy on my way to the pond and happier when I get there.

h2oskifreak
05-31-2012, 10:10 AM
Tires were Carlisle brand. Don't know why that didn't show in last post, but some on here will care. I am sure I might have found a better tire if I researched, but my lake is 12 min. from my house and no long tows expected, so they should work just fine.

occva
05-31-2012, 10:16 AM
How about a picture of the welded blocks. I need to do this to mine also.

Sent from my Milestone X using Tapatalk 2

thatsmrmastercraft
05-31-2012, 11:21 AM
OK, got the trailer fixed by adding 2" blocks (welded) between the axel and springs. Also new heavier duty u bolts makes me more comfortable than the skinny ones that were stock. New 215 tires helped lift a little as well. I know some will care, they are Did all 3 (spare as well for) $325.00
Have my "certified inspection" from CO State Patrol in 13 days, can't imagine they can find anything to bust my hump over, buy you know those law guys...might depend on how many dougnuts he had or didn't get that day (popo's not my fav. peeps seen way too many jerks giving a good profession a bad name in my lifetime). Anyway, I am happy on my way to the pond and happier when I get there.

They catch you with a "modified suspension" on your trailer, they will have a field day. Just sayin'

h2oskifreak
05-31-2012, 02:35 PM
They catch you with a "modified suspension" on your trailer, they will have a field day. Just sayin'

Gosh, I hope not. The trailer is 2x as safe as it was stock, but you could be right. My luck I will get the guy who has to "justify his job" at everyone else's expense.

Ski-me
05-31-2012, 03:39 PM
When I registered my trailer here in Colorado I never went through an inspection. If I recall, you are in Grand Junction area, correct? Inspection required over there?!?

swardco
05-31-2012, 06:02 PM
I just bought my boat a year ago and registered my trailer in CO without an inspection. Maybe because it had been previously registered in CO?

CCAnderson
06-01-2012, 03:43 PM
I caution people when considering adding a leaf spring to raise the tailer height. Adding a leaf changes the spring rate on the trailer giving you boat a rougher ride. think F250 vs F150.

When it come to tire size 205-70r14 means the tread width is 205 mm wide. the 70 is the aspect ratio which means the side wall is 70% of the tread width. R stands for radial 14 means 14 inch rim. If you need a taller tire you can get it many ways. wider tire with same side wall ratio, larger aspect ratio with same width tire or larger rim diameter or any combination of the three. You have to do some math to figure out the overall change in tire diameter.