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wtrskr
05-10-2012, 12:15 PM
In order to get my brakes working I beleive I will need to replace the actuator. My question is whether the actuator is welded on the '94 trailers or if it is just the bolts that hold it in?

Background:

My actuator was dry so I attempted to add brake fluid and bleed the lines but didn't have luck. I disconnected the brake line from the actuator and the fluid wasn't even making it to that point.

I removed the clips from the bolts/pins that go through the trailer frame and through the actuator. I was able to easily slide the front bolt out but the second pin/bolt won't slide out of the actuator. I'm wondering if it is welded together? I ask because I saw a previous post where a person cut off the whole front part of the frame to replace the actuator. Do I just need to pound it harder?

My other question is whether I should just assume that the brake lines are junk too, or is there a chance the actuator is junk but the brake lines are fine?

Kyle
05-10-2012, 01:25 PM
Grab a punch and a bigger hammer to get the pin out.


You may be fine just replacing the master cylinder. Its much cheaper than the whole assembly. I would also snake new brake line inside the trailer.



I did the same project on my '93

charrison327
05-10-2012, 02:24 PM
Keep us posted and take some pictures. I just ordered a new inner slide assembly for my 96 trailer.

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/UFP-A-60-Inner-Member-Slide-7500lb-for-DRUM-Brakes-34039/

It's my plane to replace everything from the front - back. All the lines etc... By looking at the directions from the UFP 60 manual on the website, it doesn't appear that it's going to be all that hard. There is a PDF link to the manual on the site link I pasted if you want to check it out. I do know mine is not welded, only the outer frame is that contains the inner slide.

sp00ky
05-10-2012, 02:45 PM
In order to get my brakes working I beleive I will need to replace the actuator. My question is whether the actuator is welded on the '94 trailers or if it is just the bolts that hold it in?

Background:

My actuator was dry so I attempted to add brake fluid and bleed the lines but didn't have luck. I disconnected the brake line from the actuator and the fluid wasn't even making it to that point.

I removed the clips from the bolts/pins that go through the trailer frame and through the actuator. I was able to easily slide the front bolt out but the second pin/bolt won't slide out of the actuator. I'm wondering if it is welded together? I ask because I saw a previous post where a person cut off the whole front part of the frame to replace the actuator. Do I just need to pound it harder?

My other question is whether I should just assume that the brake lines are junk too, or is there a chance the actuator is junk but the brake lines are fine?

I am planning on the same project within the next month for my 94 trailer too. Keep us posted

Kyle
05-10-2012, 02:51 PM
Just in case you did not know. The UFP coupler assembly is specific to drum or disc brake systems.

Just throwing that out there so the wrong part does not get ordered.

wtrskr
05-10-2012, 02:58 PM
Thanks guys.

I'm not sure how quickly I'll get around to ordering and installing the actuator. I just ordered some insulation for the engine cover and will finish that project first.

One other question I should ask just to make sure my actuator is indeed toast. Did these older actuators have a brakeaway cable that I see on the newer UPF actuators on the site? If my breakaway cable is gone could that be stopping the brake fluid from moving through the actuator to the brake lines?

mayo93prostar
05-10-2012, 03:24 PM
I second both things Kyle said, big hammer and need to define drum or disk. I upgraded my 93 trailer from drum to disk and replaced actuator with one designed for disk. I ordered the parts from dorsey trailer in texas cheaper than I could get them from UFP distributor on East coast. However, I think Dorsey is out of business. I will put a plug in for DHM trailers (California Trailer) since I ordered lifting blocks and U bolts from them since they were the only place I could find such items. I recommend to do similar upgrade, go to disk brakes if you do not have them already.

Kyle
05-10-2012, 03:57 PM
I recommend to do similar upgrade, go to disk brakes if you do not have them already.

I am serioiusly considering this myself. What differences did you notice. My drums are set up real nice and if I lock up the brakes on gravel the trailer will lock up too. I can almost slow down faster with a trailer than without a trailer.

mayo93prostar
05-10-2012, 04:42 PM
I had no reference to start from regarding comparing drum to disk for braking power because the drum brakes were totally shot when I bought the boat and trailer. I do know the disk helps vs no brakes. However, my normal trip to the ramp is less than a half mile. Both my 82 and 87 trailer did not have brakes. I like the disk because they are open to wash out since I am in brackish water. I rinse the trailer off both when I put the boat in the water and when I take it out, or at least my son does. :) If your drum brakes are working fine, probably stay with them.

charrison327
05-10-2012, 06:03 PM
how hard is the conversion to disk?

93Prostar190
05-10-2012, 10:55 PM
how hard is the conversion to disk?

I did the conversion on my 93 ..... Wasn't too bad ... Did it in a weekend ... UFO provided most everything that I needed for my single axle trailer.

wtrskr
08-16-2012, 12:34 AM
An update and some questions.

I finally got the pin out and was able to take a look at the parts inside the actuator. I decided to order just the master cylinder for now because the other parts look good.

Questions: (I'm sure I'll figure out most of it on my own)

Is there any good way to check if the brake lines are ok other than to wait for my new master cylinder and try pushing the fluid through?

If I need new brake lines, is it 3/16" line that I should use?

The current line goes through the frame, then connects to a thicker flexible line that goes to a "T" adaptor at the axle. My question, if I use a flexible brake line, is there any reason not to have one piece go straight to the "T" fitting? In other words, do I need to keep that thicker flexible line in between?

Last question, what about at the wheels. If that is rusted what could potentially need replacing? Any chance it will be just certain parts such as the wheel cylinder or the calipers. I've never worked with drums brakes so just going off images on the web.

As you may be able to tell I'm trying to get this done cheaply. I just want to get them working and would rather spend on things for the boat or the trailer's appearance.

I'll take some pics along the way.

frankster66
08-16-2012, 08:30 AM
Where do you get the new brake lines?? do you have to make / bend them your self?

Rossterman
08-16-2012, 09:29 AM
Dont forget that you have to bench bleed the new mastercylinder before installing. Justmfinished a replacement of the calipers and actuator on my 2001 205v. Wasn't too bad and decided to buy the actuator assembly since the backup solenoid and shock adsorber were suspect as well and price to replace all 3 was equal to that of a new assembly.

mikeg205
08-16-2012, 09:35 AM
Pacifictrailer and most others carry both the rigid and flexible cable. If your're changing the master cylinder you might as well change our the shock absorber as as you have it apart.

Another thing to order is the plastic spacers that keep the actuator moving properly in the sleeve. When you bleed use a suction or pressure method...the screwdriver method takes forever or have someone push the actuator in so that you get a good a amount of break fluid moving as opposed to the drops the screw driver method moves.

Replace shock, master cylinder, rear drum plates, and lines last season.

wtrskr
08-16-2012, 11:02 AM
Where do you get the new brake lines?? do you have to make / bend them your self?

My plan is to pick up flexible brake line from autozone. They have some PVF coated stuff that sounds like should withstand the elements. Autozone rents a tool so you can flare the ends for the brass connnectors after you cut the line to the disired length. also rent another tool for bending.

I would have ordered it from Pacific Trailers but I'm not sure if I'll need it yet.

wtrskr
08-16-2012, 11:07 AM
Pacifictrailer and most others carry both the rigid and flexible cable. If your're changing the master cylinder you might as well change our the shock absorber as as you have it apart.

Another thing to order is the plastic spacers that keep the actuator moving properly in the sleeve. When you bleed use a suction or pressure method...the screwdriver method takes forever or have someone push the actuator in so that you get a good a amount of break fluid moving as opposed to the drops the screw driver method moves.

Replace shock, master cylinder, rear drum plates, and lines last season.

How did your old shock function compared to the new? Mine seems fine but I don't have the new one to compare it to. Given that my boat doesn't have a ton of hours I'm thinking the shock hasn't taken that much abuse. The plastic spacers seem fine.

What do you mean by drum plate? Did you have to replace the whole backing backing plate with new shoes, springs and all that stuff?

wtrskr
08-16-2012, 11:09 AM
Dont forget that you have to bench bleed the new mastercylinder before installing. Justmfinished a replacement of the calipers and actuator on my 2001 205v. Wasn't too bad and decided to buy the actuator assembly since the backup solenoid and shock adsorber were suspect as well and price to replace all 3 was equal to that of a new assembly.

Didn't know that. Thanks. By bench bleed I assume you mean I just have to get some fluid moving through it before I install? I wonder why? Maybe just to make sure it works before wasting time by installing?

mikeg205
08-16-2012, 11:41 AM
How did your old shock function compared to the new? Mine seems fine but I don't have the new one to compare it to. Given that my boat doesn't have a ton of hours I'm thinking the shock hasn't taken that much abuse. The plastic spacers seem fine.

What do you mean by drum plate? Did you have to replace the whole backing backing plate with new shoes, springs and all that stuff?

My shock was 16 years old and as long as I had it apart...a few extra bucks for the shock was a no brainer for me.

I replaced both backing plates. My trailer had very low usage - PO had a summer home and only used trailer to launch/remove boat every season. Both wheel cylinder wheels seized from non use and rust. $50 bucks each for each backing plate...included everything new...had to do it.

After you reassemble and your shock is weak - you could get rattle or machine-gun sound if the shock is not in great shape - same if air is in break line.

maristardd
08-16-2012, 12:21 PM
FYI on my 94 recent purchase, while PO seemed to take care of the boat, he neglected the trailer, I think he figured with his big diesel truck, he just didn't care if it braked. In any case, my trailer's system was dry and seals shot. Local shop replaced actuator in tongue, as well as 4 drum assemblies (old ones corroded/leaking/bad).

Then they weren't able to bleed it as original lines were clogged. They also needed to replace a bunch of the line - so watch for that as well.

I thought about disk, but the trailer is so light relative to towing with a Tahoe (and was no problem even with no brakes), that I just left it drum. But since I didn't have the time to tackle this myself, this has definitely been the most expensive issue so far with my recent boat purchase. But I did want done right, as I'm trailering 45 miles each way to get to closest lake.

wtrskr
08-25-2012, 02:30 PM
I probably should have gotten a whole new actuator because I'm having some troubles.

The first photo is after I pulled apart the actuator so you can see the parts. The second is the actuator back together with the new master cylinder.

After the actuator was back together (second photo), I pushed on the end of the master cylinder in the direction of the pushrod to replicate what happens when the actuator is on the trailer. The break fluid flushed through the master cylinder like it is supposed to. But for some reason, when I put the actuator back in the trailer, I can't get the brake fluid to flow through the cylinder like it is supposed to. I tried both the screw driver method and by pushing in the actuator.

I don't get it. My only theory is that the pushrod isn't lined up correctly with the master cylinder for some reason. Any thoughts from anybody that has done this?

Cloaked
08-25-2012, 04:31 PM
I probably should have gotten a whole new actuator because I'm having some troubles.

I stopped right there....:)

No experience here... Like you say, seems it should work.

One of those smart Texans will be along to advise...

.

mikeg205
08-25-2012, 04:50 PM
It's a goofy system...took me a bit to get it working. Do you have a another set of hands helping you? To get mine to work and bleed -

#1 - son push actuator in.

#2 - when actuator in opened furthest bleeder valve - then closed

#3 - Release actuator so it can return.

#4 - repeat until no air bubbles in line.

Took my son about 20 good pushes to bleed the line...



I rebuilt mine as well. A new one takes the same type of effort...I am going to build a air pressure bleeder using a ball inflator, rubber stopper and some 3M 5200. 10-15PSI is what I am told and then you can get a perfect bleed.

I call manufacturer to get the steps...the screwdriver method for some reason did not work. Also make sure mechanism is released.. latch under trailer...


?? Where is break safety breakaway cable?

Where in the midwest do you boat??

wtrskr
08-25-2012, 07:59 PM
mgorczak1, the spot I am sitting at right now is that I haven't attached the brake line to the master cylinder and I can't even get the fluid to make it to that point. It blows my mind because it works until I put it into the trailer frame.

Good question on the brakeaway cable. After I figured out what it does I decided to go without it. It is probably something that they put on for liability reasons. The chances of it ever really being needed are probably similar the odds of winning the lottery. I view it as sort of like the kill lanyards on the boats.

I boat in the milwaukee area

mikeg205
08-26-2012, 01:47 PM
mgorczak1, the spot I am sitting at right now is that I haven't attached the brake line to the master cylinder and I can't even get the fluid to make it to that point. It blows my mind because it works until I put it into the trailer frame.

Good question on the brakeaway cable. After I figured out what it does I decided to go without it. It is probably something that they put on for liability reasons. The chances of it ever really being needed are probably similar the odds of winning the lottery. I view it as sort of like the kill lanyards on the boats.

I boat in the milwaukee area

The master cylinder needs some suction to get the break fluid into the plunger. If you look into the fluid fill cap you will see a couple of holes. Mine would not push fluid until I followed the instructions from manufacturer which I typed above. The pin travels less than you think when the actuator is installed in the sleeve.

wtrskr
08-26-2012, 06:41 PM
Good info. I had hooked up the vehicle, blocked off the tires, and went back and forth to move the actuator a few times. I didn't hit the release each time so that could be the problem. I'll give it a try. Thx

wtrskr
08-28-2012, 12:46 AM
I think the mgorczak's comment about needing suction was the issue. I hooked up the break line to the master cyliner and tried the screwdriver method. The master cylinder was bubbling so it was taking in brake fluid like it is supposed to.

Unfortunately I couldn't get the fluid to come out the other end of the first segment of brake line (disconnected the first segment back by the axle), meaning it must be rusted. The pushrod became more and more difficult to push and I assume it was because the pressure was building with no where to go.

Next step is to get some brake line and work my wake back. I don't have a rush on this project so it may be a bit until I post an update.

wheelerd
08-28-2012, 01:34 AM
I just finishing replacing the actuator on my 01 trailer. Got if from Pacific Trailers. Mine has disk brakes so has the reverse solenoid. Other than that, it's likely the same set up as yours.

The instructions that came with the unit indicate that the master cylinder needs to be bled before bleeding the lines. "Insert screw driver through hole in bottom of inner member and use short strokes to pry on pushrod (while holding safety release bracket up) until no air bubbles are seen coming from the small orifice hole in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir."

As for fluid coming out when the actuator is on the bench but not when it's installed: sounds to me like the safety release bracket underneath might need to be pushed up. Also, try activating the brakes with the actuator in various position from fully extended to part way compressed.

wtrskr
09-01-2012, 11:21 PM
I installed the new brake line with parts from a couple nearby auto parts stores. The old line that goes through the trailer frame was complete toast. I think the rest of it was probably ok but I already had materials so I replaced that too.

The attached photo shows the parts I used minus the brake line. I used a 25' coiled line of 3/16 PVF coated brake line, made my cuts with a saw, and filed the ends.

-Double flare tool (free rental that I will take back when done)
-Bender tool (also free rental)
-6 Brake Line fittings - for 3/16th line, 3/8 - 24 thread
-"T" adapter - also 3/8 and 24 thread
-2 new bleeder screws
-2 feet of 1/4 (inside diameter) clear tubing (could have maybe gone smaller?)

The only problem I am running into is that the master cylinder/ brake line connection appears to be leaking brake fluid when pressure builds. I'm not 100% positive because some of the fluid could have dripped down from when I accidentally overfilled the master cylinder. I tried redoing that flare twice but didn't fix the problem.

I guess the next step will be to try connecting the boat and trailer to my vehicle and see if the brake works while also keeping an eye on that connection. If it continues to leak I'll have to try the flare again and bleed again.

wtrskr
09-08-2012, 03:04 PM
I redid the flare on the brake line where it connects to the master cylinder and successfully took care of that leaky connection.

Now I've worked my way back to the brakes. After doing a short trip around the block I think that one of my brakes got stuck partially engaged. I took one of the brakes apart and the hub was hard to take off because it was rubbing against the shoe. Then, after taking all the parts off, cleaning with brake cleaner, and putting everything back together, I am now having troubles getting the hub back on. It looks like the wheel cylinder might be partially engaged.

I wanted adjust the brake mechanism to make room to get the hub back on but it doesn't budge. Does anybody know if Mastercraft welds the brake adjuster or something? I'm assuming they find the correct adjustment setting and lock it in that position?

At this point I will probably be ordering new backing plates unless I can figure something else out.

mikeg205
09-08-2012, 03:14 PM
If the shoes and plates are loose they can lock up. Can you post some pictures of your backing plates?

Great on run metal lines...I went the easy route and used flexible rubber hose.

Jack up the trailer and put it on jack stands (safety first)

disengage surge so its in the full forward position. - spin tire quickly...of it wants to lock the brakes are adjusted too loose.

I adjusted my breaks this way.

After bleeding....turned adjusting star until I was unable to turn break drum then backed off 8 clicks each side. There should be a bit of resistance. I did not have my drums so I get a bit of un even braking.

wtrskr
09-08-2012, 03:57 PM
If the shoes and plates are loose they can lock up. Can you post some pictures of your backing plates?

Great on run metal lines...I went the easy route and used flexible rubber hose.

Jack up the trailer and put it on jack stands (safety first)

disengage surge so its in the full forward position. - spin tire quickly...of it wants to lock the brakes are adjusted too loose.

I adjusted my breaks this way.

After bleeding....turned adjusting star until I was unable to turn break drum then backed off 8 clicks each side. There should be a bit of resistance. I did not have my drums so I get a bit of un even braking.

I can see how the flexible rubber line would be much easier. I saw the thermoplastic stuff on the pacific trailer site and would probably have gone that route if I would have known for sure that the brake lines needed replacement.

I've inclueded a picture of my backing plate. The top of the shoe doesn't come in contact with the metal at the top of the drum which tells me it is probably at least partially engaged. There is no pressure in the brake line so that is not the problem.

My adjuster will not budge. I wanted to adjust it all the way in before putting things back together and couldn't get the thread to move even with two pliers twisting in opposite directions. There has to be some JB weld in there or something.

wtrskr
09-08-2012, 04:11 PM
Something just hit me. I noticed that the two shoes aren't identical. Could I have the shoes mixed up and that is why I can't get the drum back together? Any tips on the order of reassembly? It was a pain putting it back together.

mikeg205
09-08-2012, 04:41 PM
Take the adjuster out and see if it will budge...you should be able to pull shoes apart. Cylinder does not look good. I suggest replacing...it[s a 1994 so maybe it's just time to replace the backing plate. I refurbished my 1995 trailer...only thing left to update is bearings and drum. That will be project this spring.

you can get a whole backing plate for $56.00 each side...that's what I did...

left side http://www.pacifictrailers.com/UFP-10-Free-Backing-Left-Brake-Assembly-/ and you need the right side as well.


Get a ratcheting strap(tie down) to full engage surge actuator to see what how cylinder reacts.

I wrapped the strap around the front of the actuator and the upright bow post. Was able to bleed my brakes myself that way. Could be wheel cylinder seized.

Your adjuster doesn't even show any threads..so my diagnosis is they are way out of adjustment. if its stuck get some pb blaster. probably just corroded from getting wet and not serviced well.

wtrskr
09-08-2012, 05:02 PM
I will probably end up going with a new backing plate. That is a good idea pushing in the actuator to see how the cylinder reacts. I realize it looks terrible from the outside, but I figure the metal is thick and could be fine in the inside where the brake fluid is.

The adjuster does have some thread showing you just can't see it in the picture. The space just left of the star adjuster is thread.

mikeg205
09-08-2012, 05:31 PM
With the wear your pads are showing I would expect to see more thread. My new backing plates have more thread showing but the whole mechanism is a tad different.

wtrskr
09-08-2012, 05:57 PM
Progress. I went to the garage to work on the adjustment mechanism and was able to get it working. I had sprayed it with liquid wrench yesterday and it must have loosened up. I was able to slide the hub over the backing plate after doing so. I think the previous picture is deceiving because a pretty good amount of thread was showing.

I am going to try bleeding the system again and push the actuator to see if the brake cylinder is functioning, probably tomorrow. Then I'll go to the other side and clean off the brakes and see if that brake cylinder is working.

mikeg205
09-08-2012, 06:06 PM
Good luck - hope they have life in them.....

wtrskr
09-11-2012, 11:33 PM
Just to update, I ended up ordering new aluminum wheel cylinders from pacific trailers and am awaiting the delivery. The whole new backing plate seems like a no brainer at first, but after shipping, the cost is more than 3 times as much as just the wheel cylinders. The other parts don't look like they will wear out any time soon so the extra cost is fairly pointless from my perspective.

I learned some info about the backing plates in my research. It looks like the trailer drum brakes are taken from an automotive application, but the wheel cylinders are different and only push on one of the shoes (uniservo wheel cylinder). Automotive wheel cylinders push on both shoes (double plunger). I believe the reason for the uniservo on trailers is so the brakes don't function fully when backing in reverse.

When/if my shoes get too worn I can pick those up at an automotive parts store. I believe I could also get any of the other backing plate parts as well.

GoneBoatN
09-12-2012, 11:59 AM
Just to update, I ended up ordering new aluminum wheel cylinders from pacific trailers and am awaiting the delivery. The whole new backing plate seems like a no brainer at first, but after shipping, the cost is more than 3 times as much as just the wheel cylinders. The other parts don't look like they will wear out any time soon so the extra cost is fairly pointless from my perspective.

I learned some info about the backing plates in my research. It looks like the trailer drum brakes are taken from an automotive application, but the wheel cylinders are different and only push on one of the shoes (uniservo wheel cylinder). Automotive wheel cylinders push on both shoes (double plunger). I believe the reason for the uniservo on trailers is so the brakes don't function fully when backing in reverse.

When/if my shoes get too worn I can pick those up at an automotive parts store. I believe I could also get any of the other backing plate parts as well.

When I did this on old trailer it was less to go with the whole new backing plate especially considering it included the brake pads, cylinder, new springs and I got to upgrade to galvanized. Plus factor in time (bolts off, bolts on). Not sure if yours are 10in or not but for example - http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=11003&eq=&Tp=

wtrskr
09-12-2012, 01:11 PM
When I did this on old trailer it was less to go with the whole new backing plate especially considering it included the brake pads, cylinder, new springs and I got to upgrade to galvanized. Plus factor in time (bolts off, bolts on). Not sure if yours are 10in or not but for example - http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=11003&eq=&Tp=


That's a good price. I can certainly see why one would choose to go that route.

I got my wheel cylinders for $45 including shipping. They are aluminum which is supposed to outlast the cast iron type. Using the shipping calculator on the link you gave me, the new galvanized backing plates would be about $118 incl shipping. Galvanized would certainly be nice but I don't think necessary for fresh water uses. I can get new shoes from napa for $17 for the low-end versions up to $42 for the premium.

I get what you are saying about the time. On the second one, I will be removing the wheel cylinder but leaving the rest of the parts in tact so I actually only need to remove 2 bolts vs. 4.

wtrskr
09-21-2012, 07:49 PM
To update, I received the wheel cylinders in the mail and finished the project a few days ago.

The attached image shows the new wheel cylinder in place. If you can see from the image, the left shoe is pushed out slightly (look at the top of the shoe). I was able to get the wheel cylinder to work by using the screwdriver method to build pressure with the brake fluid before I opened the bleeder screw.

I also found that bleeding via the screw driver-pushing-the-pushrod method was pretty easy, even as a one-man show. I took an old small bottle of HEET (the stuff that goes in gas to remove water), cut off the bottom, and used it as my funnel so I could put in a lot of fluid at the master cylinder right away. I then put the container of brake fluid higher than the bleeder valve so the liquid had to go up as it came out of the bleeder. That way, the only thing that could be sucked back in through the bleeder would be fluid and not air.

I added it up and I spent about $125 including shipping. That includes the master cylinder, brake line, brake line fittings, wheel cylinders, and brake fluid.

I would think that, in most cases, those would be the only new parts required to get the brakes functioning. Check that, the Shock Absorber ($25 at pacific trailers) might need to be replaced in a lot of cases and the shoes if the brakes have a lot of use. The other parts seem like they should have a long life though.

mikeg205
09-21-2012, 08:31 PM
way to go...how was the road test?

wtrskr
09-21-2012, 10:47 PM
Test drive was good. I only got up to about 25 mph in the neighborhood but no issues that would indicate that the shock absorber isn't working right or air in the brake lines. I didn't feel the boat back there as much while stopping either.

I like reading posts for insight into into how to do a specific project or to learn for possible future projects so I'll share some thoughts based on my experience. Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't trying just fixing the actuator then moving to the next thing one by one. Here is what I would do, in order.

-Check master cylinder to see if rusted. If it is, and doesn't function, I would take the actuator out of the frame. If the master cylinder isn't rusted I would try bleeding the brake line at that point.
-Assuming the cylinder is bad, at that point I would also take off the brake lines to inspect because you'd already have the brake line disconnected from the master cylinder. I'd pour brake fluid in one end and of each individual section and see if the fluid comes out clean on the other end.
-At that point I would also jack up a wheel and take off a brake cylinder to see if it is locked up.

If you do it this way, you know right away whether only some or all the parts are needed.

I would also either use brake line with the flares done already or would be real careful doing each flare and would put the flare tool in a vice.

mikeg205
09-21-2012, 11:51 PM
also I let a bit of pressure out of line on .25 inch of actuator travel - - removed my knocking or machine gunning sound. I wish I had the master cylinder to add reverse solenoid...hate getting out to lock out reverse by sticking in braking thingy....http://www.pacifictrailers.com/UFP-A-60-Side-Lockout-Bracket-34557-for-Brake-Actuator-backing/ ... most annoying piece of stuff for $1.55...