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School Skier
08-18-2005, 04:21 PM
I may have to store my MC for two winters with no use in the summers. Is there any long term effects on the engine and the rest of the drive train with this long term lay up?

erkoehler
08-18-2005, 04:22 PM
what year and kind of MC do you have?

Danimal
08-18-2005, 04:24 PM
what year and kind of MC do you have?

He has a MasterCraft ProStar 190 1997

erkoehler
08-18-2005, 04:41 PM
I may have to store my MC for two winters with no use in the summers. Is there any long term effects on the engine and the rest of the drive train with this long term lay up?


In that case, I can take it up to my cottage and run it a couple weekends for you. Now, I will have to charge you gas money, but I am sure we can work something out.

These boats are made to be ran, you can store them but there will be some effects on them. Here are some tips you could try:

1. Put the boat away 100% dry.
2. Leave a 2x4 under engine box so that it is slightly propped open.
3. Leave observer seat open slightly.
4. Use a ton of moth balls or drier sheets to keep the
rodents/animals away.
5. Pull out battery and store in warm dry place outside of boat.
Trickle charge. (It may still be shot after 2 years.)
6. Apply a generous amount of 303 or other protectant to the vinyl before storage.
7. Make sure it is CLEAN inside and out.
8. Try to raise the tires of the trailer off the ground if at all possible.
And spray with armor all or silicone to prevent dry rot and flat spots.
9. Wax the hull with a good carnuba wax to maintain the finish.
10. It would be beneficial to the boat and engine if it was ran even if just for a day.
11. Winterize the boat as normal.
12. Tape exhaust flaps shut.
13. Shrink wrap.

Danimal
08-18-2005, 04:46 PM
Great tips. I will use this list even for my winter storage. I am really concerned about the whole moth ball thing. Last year when we stored our camper I put a bunch of moth balls in. I still can't get the smell out this year. It is literally gagging my family. My kids wont even sleep in the camper. They insist on sleeping in the tent. I have left the thing air out all summer and it still hasn't subsided.

I would suggest using a bunch of dryer sheets. I found that tip on a camping forum. The smell is pleasant and works just as good as moth balls.

erkoehler
08-18-2005, 04:48 PM
Great tips. I will use this list even for my winter storage. I am really concerned about the whole moth ball thing. Last year when we stored our camper I put a bunch of moth balls in. I still can't get the smell out this year. It is literally gagging my family. My kids wont even sleep in the camper. They insist on sleeping in the tent. I have left the thing air out all summer and it still hasn't subsided.

I would suggest using a bunch of dryer sheets. I found that tip on a camping forum. The smell is pleasant and works just as good as moth balls.


We use moth balls every year in our other boat. It is a 15' open bow and we use approx. 1 box of moth balls each year when we put it away for the winter. Usually the smell lasts one weekend when we summerize it. Then it is fine.

Danimal
08-18-2005, 04:50 PM
We use moth balls every year in our other boat. It is a 15' open bow and we use approx. 1 box of moth balls each year when we put it away for the winter. Usually the smell lasts one weekend when we summerize it. Then it is fine.

Maybe the smell doesn't last as long in a boat because it's always open and gets wet all the time. I ready to sell the camper.

erkoehler
08-18-2005, 04:52 PM
Maybe the smell doesn't last as long in a boat because it's always open and gets wet all the time. I ready to sell the camper.


Have you tried putting dry sheets all over in the camper to take the moth ball smell out?

maristarman
08-18-2005, 04:52 PM
You may want to think about some type of de-humidifier also if you plan on keeping it covered.

Danimal
08-18-2005, 04:55 PM
Have you tried putting dry sheets all over in the camper to take the moth ball smell out?

No, but I have used about 5 boxes of baking soda and it's permeated the whole camper. Man it's bad. Gives me a splitting head ache!! Or maybe that's all the Capt. Morgan consumed whilst camping:toast:

Leroy
08-18-2005, 05:04 PM
I put mine up for two years while we lived in Belgium. Just did the normal winterization and parked it. It was in a temperature and humidity controlled building though.


Took couple of seconds of cranking to start, but has been fine since.

Cary K.
08-18-2005, 05:06 PM
I would suggest most of what Erk mentioned with a few differences. Take battery completely out, easier to keep maintained, definitely a de-humidifier (even the non electrical bucket type), take it to a dealer and have them shrink wrap it for you. Should keep rodents etc... out, and not have to use mothballs.

You also may want to put the trailer on jack stands and ArmorAll/Silicone the tires so the don't crack or get lopsided.

Evan Jones
08-18-2005, 05:19 PM
Tape the exhaust flaps shut

erkoehler
08-18-2005, 05:26 PM
I updated the list to include everything mentioned prior to this post.

Ric
08-18-2005, 05:32 PM
I'd have to think about just selling it now and buying another in two years. Not that you can't store it, but....

ski_king
08-18-2005, 05:34 PM
Stabil in the gas. Make sure the stabil(ized) gas is ran thru the engine.

I have heard conflicting ideas on storing with a close to empty tank vs. about a 1/2 tank.

AirJunky
08-18-2005, 05:48 PM
And replace all the belts & hoses when you pull the boat back out!

BigBarney
08-18-2005, 06:07 PM
I stored my boat for 2 winters. Here's what I did:

1) Had the oil/filter changed prior to storage
2) Washed and waxed exterior
3) Made sure interior was dry
4) Sta-bil in the tank and system
5) Fogged cylinders
6) Drained as much water from ballast tanks and system as I could.
7) Stored with cover on

She cranked on the first lick this summer with no problems. I did idle for 20 minutes to make sure everything was ok.

Things I should have done:

1) Took off all chrome parts not under the cover (tower speakers, etc). They pitted & waxing chrome sucks
2) Lift all hatches to let air ventilate. The boat was in an enclosed storage unit, but the rise/drop in temperatures and air humidity caused some engine bolts to rust

RickDV
08-18-2005, 10:14 PM
Don't mean to thread jack, but has anyone ever tried "renting" their boat to a trusted friend or relative rather than putting it up for 2 seasons?

Danimal
08-18-2005, 10:53 PM
Don't mean to thread jack, but has anyone ever tried "renting" their boat to a trusted friend or relative rather than putting it up for 2 seasons?

AHHH HAHAHAH... oops sorry. The answer is NOPE. Seriously though, If anything were to wrong with the boat, I personally would hate what might happen to the relationship. I loaned a car one time to friend in need. (My best friend) He went on a 4 day crack bender and crashed my ride. I didn't even know the dude had a crack problem. He was head of the IT Dept at the company I used to work for. Sheit happens all too often.

88 PS190
08-19-2005, 09:09 PM
When i long term store I use marine/rv antifreeze, the pink stuff, after draining the boat i put a funnel into the water pick up and pour into the hose till the rwp is primed, then stick a full bottle onto the funnel and pop a hole in the bottom ala shotgunned beer. And have someone start it keeping adding antifreeze to the system until it is only antifreeze coming out in the exausts then i shut it off.
Notes:
don't do this anywhere near the water
before launching flush with clean water
engine should be to thermostat open temperature before you begin this and water should have been previously drained completely, this ensures that if the thermostat was closed, or not enough antifreeze run in that the water will not be in to remain.

A marina I used to work at had quite the system with a tub of antifreeze that was kept full, a bilge pump and a flushing stem off the hose from the bilge pump. Flusher attached, bilge pump switched on in the antifreeze to load up w/ fluid to the boat, then the engine was started and the tub stuck behind the boat to catch the water and antifreeze on the way out. It was then allowed to sit and run for 15 minutes with the antifreeze being circulated. In the spring the flusher attaches to the hose and the antifreeze removed to protect the lake.

I did not see mention of fogging oil, or taping the carb openings, but i recommend it esp for two years worth of storage as it will protect the bores of the cylinders, and keep the engine lubed up. And fresh oil, part of the typical winterization, but esp. for two years, any water in the oil or fuel in the oil will lower its protective nature rust w/in an engine could be serious issues.

Depending on your storage location I would also recommend applying a teak protection to the swim platform, then providing some sort of cover, which should breath to prevent moisture build up, UV blocking to protect the wood from sun damage, and if outside in the winter, prevent snow from sitting against the wood. If the boat gets shrink wrapped you might desire to remove the platform and wrap it inside the boat.

Last note, trailor. I would recommend storing it off the trailer but if that is not possible remove the weight from the tires and suspension and keep the tires protected to prevent uv damage and dry rot.

Best of luck.

ps. batteries will last longer if you can sneak it into your car for a few weeks every so often. Batteries don't just die in frequent use when kept well charged (no sitting w/ the radio on for an hour w/ the engine off before storage etc.)