View Full Version : Milkshake / Transmission

04-30-2012, 10:37 AM
Good Morning Board,

Looking for some help, or order of operations to try and fix my Transmission... I brought out the boat fo the side yard to prep for the new season. Wash, wax, shampoo, vinyl clean, oil change, etc. I hooked up the fake a lake and ran the boat for about 30 minutes to heat up the oil, she fired right up & I drained about 3 + quarts. When I went to replace the oil in the engine I noticed some milky like substance coming out of the vent on the Transmission :( When i pulled the dipstick, the chamber was the same color / consistency. The good news I guess is that the engine, oil, cap, dipstick all looks great, this appears to be isolated to the transmision.

After readinfg several posts it appears it is either the seals (hope not ) or the transmission cooler... I am hoping it is simply the cooler as thats a job I can knock out... So what is the correct order of operations?

1) "drain" / "pump out" everythign ASAP
2) Refill with 15w/40 ( manual says 4 quarts? )
3) Pull out Transmission cooler and have it tested or *should I just buy one? @ $100 doesn't seem like a bad idea - Repalce
4) Hook up fake a lake, run again
5) Drain & fill, repeat a couple times to get as close back to normal.
6) If remains clean, isolated to cooler, if happens again ( once bilge area floods ) would point to the seals?


2005 X2
5.7 MCX motor
ZF Hurth Tranny
395 hours

04-30-2012, 10:42 AM
here is a picture if this helps..... Boat has been flawless since I bought her back in 05, she ran fine all last year, http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/3237/photo1lq.jpg

04-30-2012, 10:51 AM
I had the same thing happen to my prostar. It was a bad transmission cooler. I swapped it out with a new one and changed all the fluids twice to try and get out as much water as possible. You should be fine.

04-30-2012, 11:55 AM
Well, running the motor on a fake-o-lake really doesn't move the trans fluid around and you do not want to put it in gear while out of the water. You'll burn up the strut bearings doing so.

Ideally, I would run it around the lake for 10 or 15 minutes in gear at low speed and then change out the oil.

Jeff d
04-30-2012, 12:20 PM
Re: 3) I would have it tested at a radiator shop first. The one near my house did it for free (FWIW mine was good). If you buy a new one I think it will be unpainted so you'd have to paint it. Also, depending on what's wrong you might be about to spend a lot of money on parts and labor so why add $100 to that if it's not necessary?

Re: 4) As Can't Repeat stated you'll really need to actually drive the boat in gear, on the water. If you wanted you could grab 4 quarts of the cheapest 40ish weight motor oil you can find, dump that in, run on the fake-a-lake, then change it for the first iteration to get most of the water out. For the 2nd and 3rd iterations you'd want to actually get it out there and drive it for a few mins. Just bring your pump, rags, funnel and what not and change it at the dock.

Jeff d
04-30-2012, 12:32 PM
Also, if you typically have water up to the level of your transmission seals then you have some other non-transmission problems to deal with.

04-30-2012, 03:18 PM
Thanks for the feedback, I will keep the board posted with the developments.

04-30-2012, 03:26 PM
This is the easiest, cleanest way to change engine/ transmission oil in a boat... by far. Thought you may be interested since it looks like you have some fluid changing ahead of you.


04-30-2012, 10:35 PM
We picked up that same extractor, worked like a champ for my brother, 7 quarts pulled - all milkshake looking :(

Also found impeller shreds in cooler when he pulled it this PM. We replaced the impeller July of '11 after it shredded, we thought we got everything out, was almost sure of it but there was enough to clog the cooler.

We are this far in, were gonna pull the manifolds and check / replace the impeller to make sure the new one is good too. We could have just missed these pieces, or by chance a couple issues arising @ same time. The paln is to get the cooler tested & determine if we need to replace, once those are done we are gonna fill, run, drain & fill again. Plan is to then head to the lake Sunday and repeat after about 10-5 minute drive time keeping an eye on temps, fluids, etc.....

Thanks for all the help / feedback, hoping its just the cooler and we wnt have to worry about a hefty Seal bill. Only time will tell.

05-01-2012, 03:52 AM
You should add pulling the impeller to your winterization maintenance each year.