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nkorep2
04-29-2012, 01:01 AM
I just purchased a 1990 Prostar 190 with a 351 in it, that is in dire need of a lot of TLC. Im gonna bring her back to life. The hull is in excellent shape which serves as a good starting point. Some elbow grease and the boat should shine. The motor and transmission are a different story. The story I got is that the boat was owned by an older guy who used it to ski with his daughters. They grew up and lost interest in boating, so the boat more or less sat for a while out in the elements. The guy thought about fixing it up, but he decided it wasnt worth the effort to get the thing running again. So it sat for a while longer until he sold it.

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K8iF6UFKilM/T5q80o7-ayI/AAAAAAAABvM/KMqCynrH_1M/s640/2012-04-27_10-30-34_750.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Mr5DMnVUOFQ/T5jGFeDjMoI/AAAAAAAABsA/pIObNS-rbUk/s800/4_imagejpeg952.jpg

The guy I bought it from was planning on restoring it, but lost interest when he came across a center console fishing boat. He has like 5 boats at his house. He saw that the transmission was sitting in water at one point so decided to pull it as well as the motor, since that wasnt running either and likely needs a rebuild. So, he bought a rebuild kit with instructional video for the transmission, which looks nice and clean and in pieces currently. The motor turns over manually, but def needs a lot of work. Ill start tearing it down tomorrow and hopefully I will be able to save it without giving up an arm and a leg.

The interior is completely shot so will have to be replaced.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EHXLYWH2yAk/T5jGRBpQrJI/AAAAAAAABsg/R2838WXD4HE/s800/imagejpeg954.jpg

Things that are obviously missing from the boat are Carb, 1 exhaust manifold and riser, and starter. Seems like everything else is there. Im looking forward to learning about this mastercraft specifically and engine rebuilding and boat restoration in general. Ill be needing a bunch of help along the way.

The basic plan is as follows:

1. Get motor and transmission running and installed (motor may just need to be replaced)
2. Electrical such as gauges (not including a stereo)
3. re upholster 2 front seats
4. Then I'll work on making her look good on the outside
5. Then go back to finish the interior, rear seat, side panels, and then any final touches like stereo.
6. Fix the trailer
7. Play on the water

Would love to hear some advice or motivating thoughts, this is something Ive wanted to do for a while but havent taken the plunge till now.

curtish
04-29-2012, 01:16 AM
Welcome. You are off to a great start providing lots of pictures. These resto threads are always fun to follow. Lots of good info available if you search the old threads. And if you don't find what you are looking for, just ask. :)

jhall0711
04-29-2012, 01:26 AM
We all love project threads here... Especially when they are kept up to day with pictures. I have a 1989 prostar which will be an identical power train set up as yours with perhaps the exception of the transmission. (you will either have a 1:1 or the 1.5 :1 powerslot. Motor will be a 351 Ford. Im sure you know these basic things. We all love to help out as much as possible so please ask away. A lot of the more senior members are a wealth of information and have done most things at least twice.

Good luck; keep us up to date.

Congrats.

nkorep2
04-29-2012, 01:38 AM
Anyone have a good source for Ford 351 rebuilding? Maybe a book or online source that would preferably have lots of photos?

mikeg205
04-29-2012, 08:56 AM
Good luck...can't wait to see the final result.

Miss Rita
04-29-2012, 09:38 AM
The nice thing about restoring old MC's is that if the hull is sound virtually every part you need is readily available. (Once exception is the dash panel, hope yours is OK) The 351 is a reliable-as-a-rock engine, no problem with rebuilding it. You've addressed the tranny issue. Places like skidim.com will have most, if not all, of the mechanical bits you need.

We like pictures!

nkorep2
04-30-2012, 01:36 AM
Day 1:

So I got a chance today to start working on this project. Got about 4 hours of work in. I started the engine tear down. There is obviously corrosion on the outside of the motor and as I quickly find out within the cooling system. The story behind this boat is still kind of a mystery even after the work today.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-heSgTYwNvIc/T54Zy0J3UKI/AAAAAAAABx0/z4F-DiMIXBQ/s640/_MG_1644.JPG

I removed the valve covers and the valves all look good on both sides of the motor.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TMBShcArLEY/T54apyS0NhI/AAAAAAAABz0/_s2IBIHfkuo/s640/_MG_1659.JPG

Upon removing the hoses that attach to the thermostat housing, you can clearly see a ton of corrosion, someone must have used this boat in salt, or at least brackish water. I feel like the housing can be saved, maybe? It seems largely solid, but there is def a lot of rusty build up inside. What do you guys think?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pi6idnrTddo/T54bR5aV2VI/AAAAAAAAB1M/gxQsLfsTSh8/s640/_MG_1671.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6jVXhKt5cg8/T54bY4QJi4I/AAAAAAAAB1c/xQkE2J0KXiE/s640/_MG_1673.JPG

I then pulled the hoses from the water pump. One side of the pump, I assume exit, was totally gunked up. Not sure what this is from. Maybe the Original owner ran through some muck that was sucked up into the system. It clogged the cooling system and the boat was put up without rinse which lead to the corrosion seen throughout? Idk, trying to figure it out. Anyone got any ideas regarding this?

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dBLV6-XvOCw/T54a_XcJJTI/AAAAAAAAB0c/WajTPYA1ARE/s640/_MG_1667.JPG

The water pump is actually in pretty great shape, I didnt get a photo of it, but it spins smoothly and freely. I dont think it needs replacing, just a thorough cleaning. I then removed alternator, distributor, fuel pump and oil filter. Im assuming Ill have to replace all 4 from the list. There a way to clean the distributor, alternator, and fuel pump to see if they may work still?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Heu2nTpIxf8/T54b599x1dI/AAAAAAAAB2s/Kr4eDay4uCU/s640/_MG_1682.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IywBYHDNdjA/T54bkeTOV9I/AAAAAAAAB10/t61ECAoVtS0/s640/_MG_1676.JPG

I dont have a good image of the alternator, its a gonner anyway I think. I think removed the intake manifold. Everything looks clean with the exception of the cooling "ports" if thats what youd call them. I think this part can also be salvaged.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fLJfn_Q73Kk/T54cQGGnCFI/AAAAAAAAB3c/13FjOlFfpOg/s640/_MG_1689.JPG

Then I removed the heads, and looks what I see! Water....actually, as I was separating them from the block, water started coming out. So the question stands, how did the water get in the cylinders? The motor turns over fairly easily by hand with the right socket. Can water get into the cylinders if the motor sits outside in the rain without a carburator on top of it? It sure is an awful lot of water that came out for the cylinders. It was like this on both sides, about the same amount on both sides.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nbUlITlXDz4/T54cTN3NKII/AAAAAAAAB3k/A8-Z-fWDVNI/s640/_MG_1690.JPG

Heres a close up. There is some rust, but it wiped away really easily with a paper towel.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i470hng0imY/T54cXgb682I/AAAAAAAAB3s/vQdOnHPsxP8/s640/_MG_1691.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MFG3DbNJBVU/T54ciUn3wkI/AAAAAAAAB4E/Zkf2zcMl4Bw/s640/_MG_1694.JPG

So this is where I am now. I dont have the motor on a mount so I couldnt just remove the oil pan and finish the tear down to see what the rods look like. Hopefully I can get to that towards the end of the week. Assuming that the rest of the inner parts are in decent condition, is this motor worth rebuilding? I realize there are a bunch of questions in this post, but hopefully you can at least appreciate the photos and then answer them :)

I might potentially have the opportunity if this motor is a bust, to save up for and get a chevy 350 marine to install in this boat. Id rather keep the ford and not spend the money on another motor if I dont have to. I guess Ill figure the next step once the motor is completely torn apart. BTW, I only had one bolt thus far to give me trouble. I got it out with a manual impact driver that my buddy had. Neat little tool, never used one before.

Thanks in advance for all of your help.

mayo93prostar
04-30-2012, 07:48 AM
I think the heads and block should be useable as long as it does not have any cracks. Yes, water can get in through the carb opening with no carb. I would replace the circulating water pump and exhaust manifolds and risers. Skidim has many parts, and I have used them quite a bit. However, for exhaust manifolds and risers, I found them cheaper at ebasicpower.com. Good luck.

Jerseydave
04-30-2012, 08:43 AM
Water in the cylinders could be from an open carb.....or the boat filling with rain water if the owner left the plug in. Didn't you say the trans had water in it? I would think the engine got water in it the same way.

You may want to check the cost of a complete long block instead of all the machine shop work plus internal engine parts (pistons, cam, etc.)

nkorep2
04-30-2012, 11:05 AM
Water in the cylinders could be from an open carb.....or the boat filling with rain water if the owner left the plug in. Didn't you say the trans had water in it? I would think the engine got water in it the same way.

You may want to check the cost of a complete long block instead of all the machine shop work plus internal engine parts (pistons, cam, etc.)


Wouldnt that mean the water was like 3 feet deep inside the boat? Makes me sad thinking that is possible. I didnt see a water line or anything like that on the interior, but maybe its there. I'll look at that once the motor is apart completely.

thatsmrmastercraft
04-30-2012, 12:16 PM
An open intake manifold will allow rain water to run directly into the cylinders with open intake valves. Guarantees water would be in a couple cylinders. Now......did it freeze in there?

Jerseydave
04-30-2012, 12:21 PM
Wouldnt that mean the water was like 3 feet deep inside the boat? Makes me sad thinking that is possible. I didnt see a water line or anything like that on the interior, but maybe its there. I'll look at that once the motor is apart completely.

It's very possible.....look at the corrosion on the outside of your distributor.
Check you wiring harness that goes to the engine for corrosion/green on wire terminals. Does the starter look like it's been under water? Also go under the dash and look for possible corrosion there as well.

Was the engine sitting out in the open weather while it was in the boat? (like with no engine box on it?)

nkorep2
04-30-2012, 12:35 PM
An open intake manifold will allow rain water to run directly into the cylinders with open intake valves. Guarantees water would be in a couple cylinders. Now......did it freeze in there?

Id bee about 99% sure it didnt freeze in there, this boat was from a lake near destin, fl, its very rare for us to be in that cold of weather long enough for water to freeze.


I dont have a starter to look at, it didnt come with the motor. I dont have a clear history of what conditions it sat. Based on the looks of it, Im going on assuming the whole motor was basically under water at some point, or at least in a really heavy rain storm without the engine cover on, and with the carb off.

rjracin240
04-30-2012, 12:56 PM
Cool looking project, would not sweat the little bit of water in the cylinders after all you said the surface rust wiped up!
Would finish the tear down looking for any obvious signs of damage then take it down to the machine shop and have everything checked to see if you can get away with a honing or if you need to bore it. Since you have it stripped this far would go to your local Pick-N-Pull and get yourself a set of GT-40 heads for about $80-100 for the set and build those. There are several aftermarket intakes that are available that are pretty inexpensive, which would be a good resale point as well as the improvements they would give. DB Electrical was a inexpensive source for me when I bought a starter that is now going on its third season. They also sell alternators!
For your distributor it could probably be dissasembled and hit with a blast in a blasting cabinet and then reassembled with new bearigs or bushings.
As for the exterior corrosion under the engine cover; keep in mind that if it has been sitting as long as you say it has there has been plenty of condensation taking place in there leading to some ideal conditions for the surface corrosion you have observed.
During your teardown process take a look at the wiring as well to see how far back the corrosion might go in the wiring jacket.
Where abouts are you located in Florida, I have some extra gages; PM me if interested.
Hopefully you bought the boat for a couple grand or less leaving you lots of expense money to stay in the green with when you go for resale.

nkorep2
04-30-2012, 01:09 PM
Cool looking project, would not sweat the little bit of water in the cylinders after all you said the surface rust wiped up!
Would finish the tear down looking for any obvious signs of damage then take it down to the machine shop and have everything checked to see if you can get away with a honing or if you need to bore it. Since you have it stripped this far would go to your local Pick-N-Pull and get yourself a set of GT-40 heads for about $80-100 for the set and build those. There are several aftermarket intakes that are available that are pretty inexpensive, which would be a good resale point as well as the improvements they would give. DB Electrical was a inexpensive source for me when I bought a starter that is now going on its third season. They also sell alternators!
For your distributor it could probably be dissasembled and hit with a blast in a blasting cabinet and then reassembled with new bearigs or bushings.
As for the exterior corrosion under the engine cover; keep in mind that if it has been sitting as long as you say it has there has been plenty of condensation taking place in there leading to some ideal conditions for the surface corrosion you have observed.
During your teardown process take a look at the wiring as well to see how far back the corrosion might go in the wiring jacket.
Where abouts are you located in Florida, I have some extra gages; PM me if interested.
Hopefully you bought the boat for a couple grand or less leaving you lots of expense money to stay in the green with when you go for resale.


Whats the benefit of the GT-40 Heads? Id rather not spend anything extra if I dont need to. Im located in Tallahassee, Fl. I dont know what condition the gauges are in yet, will take a look at those with time. I may be interested in new ones if I need them, at that time. I paid 1,100 for it all. I have a bunch of room to stay in the green so to speak. However, I dont really plan on selling it once its done, I may just have to keep it forever :).

d2jp
04-30-2012, 07:44 PM
Great looking project boat! Most engine parts are readily available and not too expensive, tranny too. Gauges and dash parts can be more difficult to find, but are out there.

The trailer doesn't look original, does it have bunk boards or rollers? Almost looks like rollers in the picture.

nkorep2
05-01-2012, 12:31 AM
Great looking project boat! Most engine parts are readily available and not too expensive, tranny too. Gauges and dash parts can be more difficult to find, but are out there.

The trailer doesn't look original, does it have bunk boards or rollers? Almost looks like rollers in the picture.


The trailer is not original. The guy said he bought the boat with the original trailer, and the trailer actually collapsed on the drive home, so he had to replace it. He gave me the fiberglass fenders from the original trailer, which Im selling. This trailer is largely solid, but does have some cancer, and will be repaired once the boat is done.

nkorep2
05-01-2012, 01:11 AM
Day 2:

I got a chance this evening to work on the motor some more. I removed all of the lifters, which all seem to be in great shape. I pulled the crankshaft dampener, or whatever its called, then pulled the timing chain cover. Everything looks pretty good. Should I replace the timing chain and sprockets?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dGEjq81XhrY/T59nEMQYQ9I/AAAAAAAAB6Y/ZrkCWtwwdOU/s640/_MG_1712.JPG

Here's an attempt to show how loose the chain is. Im pushing it to the right in this image.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aKxEuk4cfGk/T59nSV5epcI/AAAAAAAAB7A/hIXXWIYa9kc/s640/_MG_1717.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0IKWecRk3wM/T59naemNw7I/AAAAAAAAB7Q/Ww2pBCnMnig/s640/_MG_1719.JPG

I then drained the oil pan and saw water in it, which is expected, considering it was also in the cylinders. I then flipped the entire block over, and proceeded to remove the oil pan.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZWxNKKsG98o/T59nmOMym7I/AAAAAAAAB7w/P1GTJjZZ2Gw/s640/_MG_1723.JPG

The interior looks pretty dang good. There isnt any obvious issues, and Im assuming there really arent going to be any not so obvious issues either. Im planning on taking the interior components apart on friday, and prepare the block for the machine shop. Ill do all bearings and such, I wonder if I can get away fine with just a honing of the cylinders, or if they must be bored? Ill replace the oil pump also, foolish not to since I have access to it now.


I then proceeded to use the pressure washer a little bit to clean the oil pan. As I did so, the paint began to flake off, and a layer of surface rust under the paint began to show. I dont have the pics of that, however, I do know that Ill end up sandblasting the entire pan and repainting it now.

I wasnt ready to call it quits yet, so I went ahead and started dismantling the engine mounts. The rubber bushings seems to be in great condition, so I think I'll simply reuse them. The metal will get sand blasted and repainted. Then the mounts will be reassembled.

Heres a pic I took to remind myself of how they are assembled.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1wF1E1V2Yqg/T59n07CSG2I/AAAAAAAAB8Q/zLRk19UVNfc/s640/_MG_1727.JPG

How do you remove the remaining parts. I removed the nuts off the two bolts, but the bolts dont slide out in either direction. Im a little confused on what to do here. I wanna disassemble it completely to make sure there isnt corrosion where I dont want it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-STPWjBkHOOA/T59n4OErOxI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/p0jVMxvzmgI/s640/_MG_1728.JPG

And thats where Im at now. Here's an image of the fenders I dont have a use for just for kicks. On Friday I plan on completing the dismantling of the motor, and prepping it to go to the machine shop, I may consider working on cleaning up the motor mounts too, we'll see how ambitious i get.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-roVrUeeHjOw/T59mhCh8sdI/AAAAAAAAB5I/2LiY15PFEsQ/s640/_MG_1701.JPG

The black spots are where the previous owner had to torch the bolts in order to remove them from the old trailer, which was a POS. It rubs off quite easily. Im not gonna use them, so Im not overly concerned.

SkiDog
05-01-2012, 08:10 AM
Day 2:

I got a chance this evening to work on the motor some more. I removed all of the lifters, which all seem to be in great shape. I pulled the crankshaft dampener, or whatever its called, then pulled the timing chain cover. Everything looks pretty good. Should I replace the timing chain and sprockets?

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-dGEjq81XhrY/T59nEMQYQ9I/AAAAAAAAB6Y/ZrkCWtwwdOU/s640/_MG_1712.JPG

Here's an attempt to show how loose the chain is. Im pushing it to the right in this image.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aKxEuk4cfGk/T59nSV5epcI/AAAAAAAAB7A/hIXXWIYa9kc/s640/_MG_1717.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0IKWecRk3wM/T59naemNw7I/AAAAAAAAB7Q/Ww2pBCnMnig/s640/_MG_1719.JPG

I then drained the oil pan and saw water in it, which is expected, considering it was also in the cylinders. I then flipped the entire block over, and proceeded to remove the oil pan.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZWxNKKsG98o/T59nmOMym7I/AAAAAAAAB7w/P1GTJjZZ2Gw/s640/_MG_1723.JPG

The interior looks pretty dang good. There isnt any obvious issues, and Im assuming there really arent going to be any not so obvious issues either. Im planning on taking the interior components apart on friday, and prepare the block for the machine shop. Ill do all bearings and such, I wonder if I can get away fine with just a honing of the cylinders, or if they must be bored? Ill replace the oil pump also, foolish not to since I have access to it now.


I then proceeded to use the pressure washer a little bit to clean the oil pan. As I did so, the paint began to flake off, and a layer of surface rust under the paint began to show. I dont have the pics of that, however, I do know that Ill end up sandblasting the entire pan and repainting it now.

I wasnt ready to call it quits yet, so I went ahead and started dismantling the engine mounts. The rubber bushings seems to be in great condition, so I think I'll simply reuse them. The metal will get sand blasted and repainted. Then the mounts will be reassembled.

Heres a pic I took to remind myself of how they are assembled.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1wF1E1V2Yqg/T59n07CSG2I/AAAAAAAAB8Q/zLRk19UVNfc/s640/_MG_1727.JPG

How do you remove the remaining parts. I removed the nuts off the two bolts, but the bolts dont slide out in either direction. Im a little confused on what to do here. I wanna disassemble it completely to make sure there isnt corrosion where I dont want it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-STPWjBkHOOA/T59n4OErOxI/AAAAAAAAB8Y/p0jVMxvzmgI/s640/_MG_1728.JPG

And thats where Im at now. Here's an image of the fenders I dont have a use for just for kicks. On Friday I plan on completing the dismantling of the motor, and prepping it to go to the machine shop, I may consider working on cleaning up the motor mounts too, we'll see how ambitious i get.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-roVrUeeHjOw/T59mhCh8sdI/AAAAAAAAB5I/2LiY15PFEsQ/s640/_MG_1701.JPG

The black spots are where the previous owner had to torch the bolts in order to remove them from the old trailer, which was a POS. It rubs off quite easily. Im not gonna use them, so Im not overly concerned.

I'm sure there's somebody on here that would like to have those fenders.

tideengineer
05-01-2012, 01:17 PM
where r u located? I am pretty close to Destin...interested to know where that boat was located....saw one like it halfway sink on our lake when it attempted to run through 12" of water...had to pull all our t-shirts off to plug the holes created in the bottom of the boat...then help retrieve the rudder, shaft, etc....

it was a shame because the boat was brand new then....

nkorep2
05-01-2012, 01:34 PM
Id be very surprised if that was the same boat. The fiberglass looks solid, and there doesnt seem to be any signs of major repairs. Id imagine something like that would total the boat beyond repair. This one is in good shape. I dont know exactly where it was prior to the guy I bought it from. He was about 15 miles east of destin.

nkorep2
05-07-2012, 02:00 AM
Well I just calculated, Ive already put 33 man-hours into my project, and its only been 7 days. Im pretty excited about this overall process and the final outcome some day in the future. I took the oil pan and sanded it to bare metal. As I initially pressure washed in, I noticed rust under the paint, so I had to remove it all.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-65NWY54eGyc/T6Wg6OgFWjI/AAAAAAAACAE/yS9tbk55-No/s640/2012-05-05_17-51-01_24.jpg

This photo was taken at some point during the process. I then used a high temp primer and black paint. I actually still need a couple more layers of paint before the pan is done.

Additionally, the motor has been totally torn down, well, with the exception of the headers, which arent torn down. I had the help of a friend to pull the pistons. Everything came out without too much difficulty. I placed eveything in bags and labeled it all. In general the motor looks good. The cylinder walls look smooth. The crank and camshafts dont show much wear, the bearings also look good. Im taking the block to a performance machine shop to get them to clean it, as well as check it out and help me decide how to approach the restoration. Im fairly optimistic that only minimal machining will be required.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KAwajNMQHFI/T6TZCAAxk3I/AAAAAAAAB_I/gHFh6nF__FM/s640/2012-05-04_21-29-51_150.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-54wgVzksWOE/T6TZ03T7S3I/AAAAAAAACAs/XRmzc3Lk8wg/s640/2012-05-04_21-30-24_155.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5L3Jg11SUh0/T6TaFJsebpI/AAAAAAAAB_Y/ZPoJ60iw604/s640/2012-05-04_21-30-34_458.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4UVlEMRgufU/T6TaVcwSDzI/AAAAAAAACA0/UBQYsfrAzXw/s640/2012-05-04_21-30-40_890.jpg

I then proceeded to work on restoring the engine mounts. The pair that attaches to the block is in good condition and I was able to sand blast, clean, prime and paint those mounts. The other pair however is a lost cause, and rusted to a point where trying to save them seems like running your head into a wall.

Heres the mount that couldnt be saved:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2d7NKd0k5xc/T6SkHF0D0kI/AAAAAAAAB94/sF0YKFllMkc/s640/2012-05-04_21-47-42_415.jpg

Heres what the mounts look like before and after:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lv4qdJ6JO84/T6dCcFdoSrI/AAAAAAAACCI/VvYm2VZvJlA/s640/2012-05-06_21-41-22_113.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mJat34HGIJs/T6dCK3E7_XI/AAAAAAAACCA/lvQKY47hkpc/s640/2012-05-06_22-32-38_645.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1wF1E1V2Yqg/T59n07CSG2I/AAAAAAAAB8Q/zLRk19UVNfc/s640/_MG_1727.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ySw-4-1MK2o/T6dGVXS3HyI/AAAAAAAACDo/fdMvdFufhiA/s640/2012-05-06_23-34-53_320.jpg

The mounts are quite done, they need another coat of paint and then they can be assembled. I just wanted to see what they look like. Is there a product out there that would be effective at protecting the exposed parts of the bolts?

The last thing I did tonight was play with the transmission. The transmission with a reduction ratio of 1:52 is mostly in pieces, the previous owner tore it apart because it was underwater. As I look at it, in general the gears are in good shape. Some of them do have some rust on them. My camera on my phone was having trouble, so I dont have photos that I wanted to post.

Here is the drive gear assembly, whats the best way to take care of these kind of parts?

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xx9ioZnyqWQ/T6dDwMN23lI/AAAAAAAACCQ/-cZLZZ5fH0U/s640/2012-05-06_21-27-49_889.jpg

I followed the instructions in the manual provided by the previous owner. I printed the pages and put them in a binder for easy use.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U-qhFytGGSQ/T6dF-yAay4I/AAAAAAAACDY/15s4z7EE31c/s640/2012-05-06_23-35-40_484.jpg

I actually kinda assembled it, without pressing bearings and without a few washers and snap rings, just to see how it fit together. I also need to get a few gaskets and seals, but other than that, all the parts seem to be there. I'll be out of town this coming weekend, so the transmission will have to wait for a couple weeks, but Id like to have it ready to go by the end of may.

Maybe the motor will be ready by then as well. Ill begin tearing down some of the interior parts, like the steering/controls and the dash tomorrow maybe. We'll see how ambitious I get.

Im still looking for the fenders to go to a good home. If I dont find anyone, I'll likely shop em up a good bit and adapt them to my trailer in the future. If anyone is interested, let me know.

- Nikolai

nkorep2
05-18-2012, 02:59 AM
Well I got some more work done over the last week or so. The motor has been taken to the machine shop, and should be ready for pick up next week. The guy there said everything looked pretty dang good, and he didnt expect any real issues cleaning the block and such. I went ahead and had them do a valve job as well.

I removed the side panels. They were quite rotten and I was able to literally just pull them away from the fiberglass with minimal effort without even loosening nuts that hold them in place. Ill rebuild them out of marine grade plywood in time, and then have them reupholstered. They arent a vital part of the boat, so they arent at the top of the to do list.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-koZEJaW4IiY/T7MXN4m_uWI/AAAAAAAACMg/j2hhI0auLO0/s640/2012-05-15_22-43-42_109.jpg

I then pulled the dash. Most of the guages look destroyed, especially the speedos. Will have to get replacements one day. I labeled all the wires as I removed them from the gauges in hope of being able to install new ones easier. The dash itself has cracking on top, but will be repaired fairly easily.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nOEHsF8No1k/T7WsNXWwbHI/AAAAAAAACOo/2_vyjfVLuv0/s640/2012-05-17_21-52-28_54.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IagOjOR7V-M/T7W0eHsdZYI/AAAAAAAACQo/I2Ml9kAphtQ/s640/2012-05-17_22-29-05_878.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-86OdPE3o0L4/T7W0ElLsRBI/AAAAAAAACQY/Lt2IsqPu-sM/s640/2012-05-17_22-28-59_58.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GSVLwABRzng/T7Xt0xkYCJI/AAAAAAAACVw/REWiEJEXDgY/s640/2012-05-17_23-45-49_375.jpg

Then I went ahead and removed the gas tank and filling cap assembly which was corroded shut. And look was I found!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xaetc6fdRnU/T7XHUO1bW0I/AAAAAAAACS4/g2vMpASqav4/s640/2012-05-17_23-46-18_375.jpg

The backing plates of the stern eye hooks were more or less not existent. Ill be replacing those with 1/4 aluminum plates I think. Any reason to not use aluminum? It should be a pretty easy repair. I wasnt really surprised considering the rust on other parts of the boat. For example, the steering cable bracket will have to be replaced also. I think I'd like to use aluminum for this as well. Here's a pic of what it looks like.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2tjy_W1GXmQ/T7XGsLfDGmI/AAAAAAAACSo/NeTqvnMdJMU/s640/2012-05-17_23-46-37_628.jpg

Ill probably have to disassemble the rudder assembly and grease everything, I may be able to just spray grease in there, but I think the grease fittings may be unusable. Time will tell. Im expecting to have to replace them.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8uu-QzNeMhI/T7XK5OUNzdI/AAAAAAAACTw/6qbUJpyYcsc/s640/2012-05-17_23-38-54_902.jpg

The last thing I did tonight, was remove the floor board in front of the motor box. I talked to a mastercraft dealer and they said Id likely have to replace it. Well, upon closer inspection, they are right. I removed the ski pylon. I tried to slide the board out. Well, then I realized the ski pylon cross member would not allow the board to slide out because of the battery box. So, I proceeded to remove the cross member. No big deal really. I tested to see how solid the board was by bend it, and well, it snapped easily, so yes, it needed to be replaced. The wood on the inside was completely soaked. Somewhere along the way the epoxy resin must have separated from the board, and moisture got in. I'll use the board as a template.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3jCDRfrlEng/T7Xd1y4V9jI/AAAAAAAACU4/kG7lj57_L9I/s640/2012-05-18_01-01-44_641.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1iTLfAoM-UU/T7XdLiXUZDI/AAAAAAAACUg/w5JbD0ePwoY/s640/2012-05-18_01-06-14_603.jpg

Here's what the area around the bilge looked like.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5L_lZq3cvNQ/T7XtoGQxw7I/AAAAAAAACVo/pXoZCXTzUnI/s640/2012-05-18_01-02-13_116.jpg

I was originally kinda hoping to avoid replacing the carpet right away, but I think its smarter to do while there is not motor in the boat getting in the way. So, I'll be stripping the rest of the interior, and pressure washing the inside, hopefully this weekend. And I'll look at taking the windshield apart, Ill be getting the windshield frame, the vents, throttle control, swim platform brackets, and bell housing powder coated sometime in the near future.

Lumbergh
05-18-2012, 12:04 PM
Wow that boat had some SERIOUS neglect.

Great project and pics.

nkorep2
05-21-2012, 11:49 PM
Got a chance to clean up the inside of the boat. I pulled the carpet, which was quite rotten. It came out really easy. I then proceeded to remove the rudder assembly, which wasnt moving very freely and definitely needs a bit of attention. The grease fitting is gone, and will have to be replaced, hopefully that something that can be done fairly easily. Ill polish, and reseal the entire assembly as well when I install it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LAS6O91E65E/T7iEtKe-D_I/AAAAAAAACbg/joNV2t_IzPE/s640/2012-05-20_01-01-37_665.jpg

I went out and worked on it in the day time for once and pressure washed the inside, removing the glue residue from the fiberglass.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-TvJOVcqqCmQ/T7hPZtduq_I/AAAAAAAACXY/GG6UmVX6-Cc/s640/2012-05-19_21-38-14_255.jpg

Once I removed the automatice floated switch for the bilge, water rushed through the screw holes. So, there is water between the sub floor and the outer hull. Im not sure how to approach fixing this, or if even needs to be fixed. While searching where the source of the water may be, I noticed "cracks" in the four corners of the boat. It looks like the layers of glass may be separating. I can fit a flat head screw driver into them.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-05A9JY9nU9E/T7nL7bFOJrI/AAAAAAAACi0/fjPcxy3p1nM/s640/2012-05-20_17-06-31_342.jpg

Anyone have a clue how to approach this?

I removed the windshield, but had a hard time removing the lower frame components, the nuts holding the frame down look more like washers, and are rusted beyond recognition, so I'll have to mess with those some more. I was told by a mastercraft dealer to just use regular window weather stripping for underneath the frame. So, I'll do that when I reassemble the windshield. Heres an imagine with the first section out.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_gzZWyvK9Tg/T7lN95YcwnI/AAAAAAAACco/RF6Rixt2i4k/s640/2012-05-20_15-56-38_577.jpg

I then proceeded to remove the throttle control. I took it apart and started cleaning the components. I may end up replacing the actual lever. I like the chrome look and may just get a new one instead of messing with getting the old one chrome plated.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2V1h7c427eU/T7lkEX2sQRI/AAAAAAAACfA/aAwVkk9lZF0/s640/2012-05-20_17-23-32_145.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9F3z5iW-cME/T7m_auJU_UI/AAAAAAAACiI/YsBpMVmdDwo/s640/2012-05-20_21-16-55_287.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dchw1UVpSzc/T7mhgiLCtNI/AAAAAAAACg4/3aqSOqDJt1M/s640/2012-05-20_21-24-37_320.jpg

I should be picking the motor up this week, and once I have all new bearings and gaskets, I'll start reassembly of it.

Jerseydave
05-22-2012, 03:25 AM
Wow, look at the corrosion on that throttle assembly. This boat either sunk or filled with rain water to the gunnels.

Nice project and pics, wow what a huge undertaking. Props to you my friend! ;)

nkorep2
05-25-2012, 01:12 AM
Got more work done yesterday and today. Cleaned the throttle control. All the metal levers with tons of corrosion got a healthy does of a wire wheel on a bench grinder, and interior of the mechanism received brand new grease. I primed and painted all the metal outside parts. I went by home depot and picked up new stainless machine screws, had to cut them down 1/8th inch, and reassembled the whole thing. I thought about getting the throttle itself re chromed, but opted for simple sand, prime and paint. Its all black, and I kinda like it. Heres a before and after.

Before :

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sDR-fJhWqzQ/T6dJIfflmMI/AAAAAAAACGY/EeUFyqitCSI/s640/2012-05-06_18-52-32_497.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2V1h7c427eU/T7lkEX2sQRI/AAAAAAAACfA/aAwVkk9lZF0/s640/2012-05-20_17-23-32_145.jpg

After:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qqEAjUSbS-E/T78JCl7svaI/AAAAAAAACoU/6OjU6Z_Ql1A/s640/2012-05-24_22-54-14_593.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eLFqMvD6bF4/T78ItG9F6bI/AAAAAAAACoE/RTSyJKEuoj4/s640/2012-05-24_23-08-03_929.jpg

Plan on working towards getting the vents, rest of windshield, and swim platform brackets off next time and get them off to powder coating. I'll also look into marine grade plywood, for the floor boards and other components and work on that while I wait for the motor to be finished at the machine shop. They are cleaning the block, heads, and intake, and doing a valve job. I'll be reassembling the whole thing. Additionally, I just made a purchase of 2 exhaust manifolds, a carb, raw water pump, circulating water pump, distributor, and alternator on ebay. Hopefully get those sometime next week and can work on cleaning that stuff up. The alternator and distributor are extras in the deal, but they are likely in better condition than mine, so Im crossing my fingers that they are in good functional shape as well.

Cloaked
05-25-2012, 03:19 AM
Nice work. I have enjoyed seeing the progress. This goes to show me how biased in opinion I am about buying into boats and their issues that others inflict upon a new owner. I would have never considered doing this (lack of patience) but this goes to show how most anything can come back from the dead. Good work. I am wondering what you did to the heads for that engine? Were they reusable or did you replace them, and with what head(s)? The GT40 head is hard to find (for me anyway) so I was wondering...... or was that a standard 240 HP engine?

Marine grade plywood can be expensive. I have used builder grade plywood and covered it with epoxy resin which works quite well. Just a suggestion if you please.

I like seeing all of the engine work.

I assume that the parts you have bought on flea-bay are marine / USCG rated / approved? Auto components are not allowed for safe use (USCG). Just curious.

What carb did you buy?

Thanks for the pictures.

.

SkiDog
05-25-2012, 07:43 AM
Nice work. I have enjoyed seeing the progress. This goes to show me how biased in opinion I am about buying into boats and their issues that others inflict upon a new owner. I would have never considered doing this (lack of patience) but this goes to show how most anything can come back from the dead. Good work. I am wondering what you did to the heads for that engine? Were they reusable or did you replace them, and with what head(s)? The GT40 head is hard to find (for me anyway) so I was wondering...... or was that a standard 240 HP engine?

Marine grade plywood can be expensive. I have used builder grade plywood and covered it with epoxy resin which works quite well. Just a suggestion if you please.

I like seeing all of the engine work.

I assume that the parts you have bought on flea-bay are marine / USCG rated / approved? Auto components are not allowed for safe use (USCG). Just curious.

What carb did you buy?

Thanks for the pictures.

.

What the hell you doing awake at 3:30 in the freakin morning?!

nkorep2
05-26-2012, 02:45 AM
Nice work. I have enjoyed seeing the progress. This goes to show me how biased in opinion I am about buying into boats and their issues that others inflict upon a new owner. I would have never considered doing this (lack of patience) but this goes to show how most anything can come back from the dead. Good work. I am wondering what you did to the heads for that engine? Were they reusable or did you replace them, and with what head(s)? The GT40 head is hard to find (for me anyway) so I was wondering...... or was that a standard 240 HP engine?

Marine grade plywood can be expensive. I have used builder grade plywood and covered it with epoxy resin which works quite well. Just a suggestion if you please.

I like seeing all of the engine work.

I assume that the parts you have bought on flea-bay are marine / USCG rated / approved? Auto components are not allowed for safe use (USCG). Just curious.

What carb did you buy?

Thanks for the pictures.

.

Thanks for the kinda words. Ive wanted to get into restoration for a long time. I frequent jeep forums and once considered a resto on an old CJ. Then I have an interest in late 70s porsche 911sc which I will restore one day for sure. I love boating/skiing, and this boat popped up at the right time, so I went for it.

The heads are the standard ones and Im planning on reusing them. They are still at the machine shop, and are being checked out. Assuming there isnt anything significantly wrong with them, they will clean them up, do a valve job and call it good. I told them Id like the block back asap so I can work on putting it back together. It was in good shape, and I think they are just about done cleaning it up and checking all specs. Ill be replacing 2 pistons I think, rings, and all bearings. Obviously gaskets and seals.

I havent found a source in town of marine plywood, but I also havent searched too much as of yet. Im almost to the point where Ill be working on those parts, so Ill get some soon. Although pricey, I feel like Id rather do it right, right being using marine plywood. I dont really ever plan on selling this boat once done, so Id rather not have rotten floors in 15 years if I can prevent it. Yes, other plywood will work with the correct treatment, but I dont really want to have that be an issue in the back of my head.

The parts I just purchased (exhaust manifolds, carb, raw water pump, circulating water pump, etc. ) are all from an 88 Prostar, the carb is def. marine version, which ever model came stock. Circulating pump is original too I believe, so its marine versions of that stuff.

nkorep2
05-26-2012, 03:15 AM
Put another 5 hours of work in this evening. First thing I did was work on removing what was left of the grease fitting on the rudder assembly. Drilled the rust out and chased the thread. Worked without issue. I forgot to take an after pic. I then removed vents and sand blasted them in prep for powder coating.

Before:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-epOh9RH_cRc/T8AsMdHiJVI/AAAAAAAACpo/LlSYFnj5BE0/s640/2012-05-25_20-58-04_590.jpg

After:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QawYSyZFAqs/T8A0duMsvsI/AAAAAAAACqA/-8y1o7mZyes/s640/2012-05-25_21-26-31_265.jpg

I then removed the swim platform and sandblasted the brackets, also to prep for powder coating. I noticed that the platform needs a little work on the underside where it attaches to the brackets. I wonder if a rubber gasket in that place would be a good idea?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5eyJrl3DCXc/T8A28d41HdI/AAAAAAAACqw/UOhiX6ranik/s640/2012-05-25_21-38-48_632.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B8wCR7HD80k/T8BH8v1R0sI/AAAAAAAACrY/uWJrWE9tXlg/s640/2012-05-25_23-00-18_587.jpg

I then proceeded to work on the the stern eye rings and the rear tow point. The backing plates of all three of these where rusted. Im surprised that MC didnt use stainless hardware on these items. The stern eye hooks took some finagling to remove as the nuts didnt want to release. Ill probably end up replacing the wood that is glassed in at this location as I poked around with a screw driver and it is completely rotten.

The black is wood in this image:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RAo9xUzrO0M/T8BNTSz9FUI/AAAAAAAACr4/3afmXz4TFYI/s640/2012-05-25_23-23-43_959.jpg

My first thought was that I needed to replace the hardware entirely because the threads looked trashed. Then I thought, maybe I could save em....well I did. I ended up grinding about an 1/8 inch off each bolt and then proceeded to chase the threads and restore them. I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder to finish the cleanup. Im pretty happy with the result. I'll get stainless backing plates for all three and stainless locking washers and nuts. Should be good as new.

Before:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-989Lx74jA98/T8BRWQGCBFI/AAAAAAAACso/GHyWgd16t_Y/s640/2012-05-25_23-39-04_47.jpg

During:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DoZwVQC-Mn8/T8BY15rJgJI/AAAAAAAACtY/why3vUD3vTo/s640/2012-05-26_00-11-19_312.jpg

After:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TANDzlNBKtI/T8BpakQrQgI/AAAAAAAACvU/ispw1Fjy8MU/s640/2012-05-26_00-56-08_807.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JHkJQuanq34/T8Bo4DnYBII/AAAAAAAACus/5258fQKXWL4/s640/2012-05-26_00-30-45_507.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6Gj_3CDeBZg/T8CBPc-RmgI/AAAAAAAACwI/OJJTkFI2qPc/s640/2012-05-26_01-08-00_93.jpg

I didnt get a chance to pull of the rest of the windshield frame or get to the bow eyes. Next time on those two things. Once that is done, the hull will largely be ready to get buffed.

SkiDog
05-26-2012, 06:48 AM
Put another 5 hours of work in this evening. First thing I did was work on removing what was left of the grease fitting on the rudder assembly. Drilled the rust out and chased the thread. Worked without issue. I forgot to take an after pic. I then removed vents and sand blasted them in prep for powder coating.

Before:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-epOh9RH_cRc/T8AsMdHiJVI/AAAAAAAACpo/LlSYFnj5BE0/s640/2012-05-25_20-58-04_590.jpg

After:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QawYSyZFAqs/T8A0duMsvsI/AAAAAAAACqA/-8y1o7mZyes/s640/2012-05-25_21-26-31_265.jpg

I then removed the swim platform and sandblasted the brackets, also to prep for powder coating. I noticed that the platform needs a little work on the underside where it attaches to the brackets. I wonder if a rubber gasket in that place would be a good idea?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5eyJrl3DCXc/T8A28d41HdI/AAAAAAAACqw/UOhiX6ranik/s640/2012-05-25_21-38-48_632.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B8wCR7HD80k/T8BH8v1R0sI/AAAAAAAACrY/uWJrWE9tXlg/s640/2012-05-25_23-00-18_587.jpg

I then proceeded to work on the the stern eye rings and the rear tow point. The backing plates of all three of these where rusted. Im surprised that MC didnt use stainless hardware on these items. The stern eye hooks took some finagling to remove as the nuts didnt want to release. Ill probably end up replacing the wood that is glassed in at this location as I poked around with a screw driver and it is completely rotten.

The black is wood in this image:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RAo9xUzrO0M/T8BNTSz9FUI/AAAAAAAACr4/3afmXz4TFYI/s640/2012-05-25_23-23-43_959.jpg

My first thought was that I needed to replace the hardware entirely because the threads looked trashed. Then I thought, maybe I could save em....well I did. I ended up grinding about an 1/8 inch off each bolt and then proceeded to chase the threads and restore them. I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder to finish the cleanup. Im pretty happy with the result. I'll get stainless backing plates for all three and stainless locking washers and nuts. Should be good as new.

Before:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-989Lx74jA98/T8BRWQGCBFI/AAAAAAAACso/GHyWgd16t_Y/s640/2012-05-25_23-39-04_47.jpg

During:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DoZwVQC-Mn8/T8BY15rJgJI/AAAAAAAACtY/why3vUD3vTo/s640/2012-05-26_00-11-19_312.jpg

After:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TANDzlNBKtI/T8BpakQrQgI/AAAAAAAACvU/ispw1Fjy8MU/s640/2012-05-26_00-56-08_807.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-JHkJQuanq34/T8Bo4DnYBII/AAAAAAAACus/5258fQKXWL4/s640/2012-05-26_00-30-45_507.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6Gj_3CDeBZg/T8CBPc-RmgI/AAAAAAAACwI/OJJTkFI2qPc/s640/2012-05-26_01-08-00_93.jpg

I didnt get a chance to pull of the rest of the windshield frame or get to the bow eyes. Next time on those two things. Once that is done, the hull will largely be ready to get buffed.

Buff BEFORE you put it back together. Course you probably already knew that!:D

Cloaked
05-26-2012, 07:27 AM
Put another 5 hours of work in this evening. I am completely impressed with your patience and resourcefulness of skills and tools. Now is a great opportunity to reinforce your platform brackets in the transom, if they need attention. Thru-bolts and backing plates are a recommendation unless the 90 model has that type of installation. The older boats have lag screws and leave a lot to be desired in quality of installation and service over the years. I have cut through my floor to access the area to add backing plates and thru-bolts for the brackets.

A great thread and thanks for sharing the work.

.

nkorep2
05-26-2012, 10:56 AM
I am completely impressed with your patience and resourcefulness of skills and tools. Now is a great opportunity to reinforce your platform brackets in the transom, if they need attention. Thru-bolts and backing plates are a recommendation unless the 90 model has that type of installation. The older boats have lag screws and leave a lot to be desired in quality of installation and service over the years. I have cut through my floor to access the area to add backing plates and thru-bolts for the brackets.

A great thread and thanks for sharing the work.

.

I think mine are the same as yours were. My only question with doing it the way you did is what happens if you want to remove the platform for some reason? Youd have to cut the hole in the floor again.

Cloaked
06-03-2012, 07:03 PM
I think mine are the same as yours were. My only question with doing it the way you did is what happens if you want to remove the platform for some reason? Youd have to cut the hole in the floor again.I remove the platform from the brackets and leave them hanging. You do have a point about the portability of the install. If I do another one, I'll use removeable brackets that allow the base to stay secured, and remove the platform and the cantilever portion of the bracket.

Cutting that floor is no big deal. Nice thing is that all of that is not visible, so cosmetics are minimal for me.

Another thought is to tack weld the nuts to the plate. Then removal is merely breaking a silicone seal with the thru-bolt.

.

nkorep2
09-14-2012, 02:24 PM
Im back to work on the boat! I have a living room full of parts now. My engine block is on an engine stand, ready to be reassembled. Windshield frame and an assortment of other parts are now powder coated.

I got fed up with the rusty nut holding the bow eye ring, so I cut the hole thing off. Ive ordered a new one. Still have to order the 5/16 threaded rod to rebuild the bow lifting assembly.

Ive begun fiberglass work. The stern eye hooks are getting new wood panels and stainless backing plates. Additionally, Ive decided to tackle the soft flooring. I drilled holes in the floor to explore and noticed that the fiberglass has separated from the foam below because of the water. The foam towards the bow seems to be dry, so I decided to simply spray new foam in, and stiffen up the flooring. Then glass the floor. In the stern, once I had holes up front, I stepped on the floor, and heard the slushing of water. So, I decided to cut a 2'x2' hole on the port side initially. Sure enough, there is a lot of water there. So, I removed the foam, dried everything out, sprayed new foam in, and will glass everything back in once the foam is solid. It seems like it will work well.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n4MTz91DkhU/UFNdjTqyRKI/AAAAAAAADcE/UoDNszwGH-8/s640/2012-09-14_12-37-32_761.jpg

I also started the repair of the crack where the floor meets the sides. I grinded, filled with filler, and then glass over. I dont expect any issues here anytime soon after this repair.

Here is an image.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2sRrH64RPXs/UFNlCd86ZzI/AAAAAAAADbA/f4ddE73ZnoE/s640/2012-09-14_13-07-55_594.jpg

Im thinking about another 2-3 days working like today, and I should be done with fiberglass work and can proceed to wet sanding, buffing, interior panels, and then the motor and transmission. Then the upholstery, and trailer. Then go PLAY!

mcparadise
09-14-2012, 04:41 PM
True inspiration! Makes me feel my restore is a cake-walk compared to what you grapple with. Lots of great tricks of the trade to learn from here.
PS How do you work so fast!! lol...

nkorep2
09-21-2012, 03:14 PM
Got some more work done. Ive ground and filled the front starboard side where the floor meets the wall, and did the same thing on the port side. I glassed the port side, but forgot to take some pics, will do that next time Im working on it. Also, cut out the panel that covers the bilge area in front of the motor box. Used the old rotten one as a template. I also glass in the older battery tray into the new panel. Still have to cut the pylon hole and vent hose holes. But its cool having this part mostly done.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RQPhI0rYH0k/UFsx-up8v_I/AAAAAAAADcY/WCzx3XmUluM/s640/2012-09-20_11-09-49_142.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hZGBVVsvZmo/UFyMWkKFZ7I/AAAAAAAADdw/bk2Ck8fvmkI/s640/2012-09-21_11-45-32_681.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YSvHhf9dQdE/UFyL_XHQmjI/AAAAAAAADdk/IrFZWi6ojPY/s640/2012-09-21_11-45-42_902.jpg

Its 3/4 in marine grade plywood with a coat of 2 part epoxy.

nkorep2
09-26-2012, 01:32 PM
Got some work done. Touched up the corners of the battery tray. Glassed the starboard side where the floor meets the wall. Just have one more corner to go with that fix. As Ive done more glassing, Ive gotten better, so Im going to go back and redo the stern Eye hook backing plates. That will possibly be tomorrow. Additionally, I cut another huge whole in my floor, this time on the starboard side in the rear. There was a lot of moisture here, but I think the foam is actuallly not saturated. Only the top inch or so is wet, so I removed that. I'll replace this top layer, and close up the holes. It kinda exciting to see progress. Here's a few images.

Starboard side:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VRbu9N2lhDA/UGMZjPqiKxI/AAAAAAAADgY/Rgk9KK0Ieko/s640/2012-09-26_11-02-06_13.jpg

Port side:

Before:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zz8KhOvxUk0/T7lfjSFHtqI/AAAAAAAACeI/9_A1xq0J-N4/s640/2012-05-20_17-08-09_83.jpg

And After:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ygWYZkcuZ2U/UGMGWuY30YI/AAAAAAAADfQ/VnzTCZdJq9k/s640/2012-09-26_09-28-04_997.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b8ciBQ4Mbek/UGMDx5k-oaI/AAAAAAAADe4/qf0Edf8zSgU/s640/2012-09-26_09-27-55_288.jpg

rjracin240
09-27-2012, 12:29 PM
Very cool and inspirational to me to get my 88 190 done. Found the same questions regarding the water under the bilge pump on my boat, tried vacuuming it out as best I could. Following along with your repair and removing a layer of foam....what foam did you use to replace it with?
Also interested in your windshield work, when I pulled out my windshield found it very difficult to go back, had to warm the old rubber with a steam gun used for removing tint to make the rubber pliable enough to allow the re-installation of the windshield.

Keep the story coming along with the pictures, very interesting.

nkorep2
09-27-2012, 01:17 PM
Very cool and inspirational to me to get my 88 190 done. Found the same questions regarding the water under the bilge pump on my boat, tried vacuuming it out as best I could. Following along with your repair and removing a layer of foam....what foam did you use to replace it with?
Also interested in your windshield work, when I pulled out my windshield found it very difficult to go back, had to warm the old rubber with a steam gun used for removing tint to make the rubber pliable enough to allow the re-installation of the windshield.

Keep the story coming along with the pictures, very interesting.

I used an evercoat sealant spray thus far. It was advertised as having use in as flotation foam, and it say waterproof, Im not sure if I completely believe that. I think Im gonna get a 2 part foam from us composites. Its a mix and pour kind. I'll use it in the areas where I cut large holes in the floor. Once set, I'll trim it to be flush and level, I'll pour epoxy on top and glue the cut out floor on top. Then fill the join, and glass over top. Figure that should work pretty well. My original idea was to just take the foam out, and install a draim plug, but that would more complicated as there are ribs that run the full length of the floor. So removing the foam would allow water to sit in the individual tunnels between the ribs. My hope is that I'll have the area sealed to the point that at least for the next 20 years there wont be an issue with the foam :). Id consider the restoration a success if that occurs.

As far as the windshield. My rubber pieces are quite pliable, I dont anticipate an issue installing it. My bigger concern is finding a source for the stainless fasteners that hold the windshield in place.

nkorep2
10-22-2012, 01:16 AM
Got more work done. Started putting the motor back together. New Piston Rings, new bearings all around. Pistons, crank, and cam all installed. Here are some pics.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m6myLfK4Fjo/UIMnlTphF4I/AAAAAAAADwM/N_fs8LNPyZQ/s640/2012-10-20_18-34-32_727.jpg

Old rings on the left, assembled pistons on the right.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8y4ZAvNnR_w/UINZOt5oaDI/AAAAAAAADx8/5GV9OHJ6fmE/s640/2012-10-20_22-07-54_32.jpg

rear seal, found out after some research, the spring on the seal is supposed to face the inside of the motor.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-okyc2aLUVqk/UIOLzqwBuaI/AAAAAAAAD1A/1sFd6WFkg8A/s640/2012-10-21_01-44-16_705.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g-CjHlfnPAo/UIOMHjQ-onI/AAAAAAAAD1c/WH_C9BkYvZg/s640/2012-10-21_01-45-05_210.jpg

Aint it pretty? Ill be ordering a new oil pump, and continuing the assembly. Its cool seeing things start coming together.

homer12
10-22-2012, 05:46 PM
I'll be it's cool. Nice work on her! It is inspiring.

memphis23
10-23-2012, 05:04 PM
Mind blowing persistence and patience.

I can handle some of these projects but your positive attitude while handling all of them at once is amazing!! Thanks for taking all of us along for the ride!!

SeaCup
10-23-2012, 06:31 PM
I really like that you have been trying to reuse or fix most everything that is bad. Seems like most people now a days just throwaway anything that is old or broken and goto the store and buy a new whatever. Great job so far, keep it up!:toast:

nkorep2
10-23-2012, 09:14 PM
Thanks guys, I appreciate the support. I got some more work done, glassed in a section of floor. I have two more pieces this size to go.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_Y9OfZP6JW8/UIa3BYCNs9I/AAAAAAAAD34/AveWyB2Zy0g/s640/2012-10-23_11-22-05_553.jpg

I wouldnt mind being able to buy say, a complete motor, transmission, and all other parts, but I can afford that. Unfortunately I have to replace a lot still. But thats part of the fun. I'll def know the in and outs of my boat when its done.

SWGA Boater
10-23-2012, 11:30 PM
I have been lurking for a while reading up on the restos that people have done. I found your thread tonight and enjoyed following it thus far. You are doing a great job. I am looking for a similar project boat myself and hope something will come by soon. Reading through all the resto threads has given me boat fever. By the way, I am from Bainbridge (GA) so I'm not too far from you.

nkorep2
10-24-2012, 12:11 PM
I have been lurking for a while reading up on the restos that people have done. I found your thread tonight and enjoyed following it thus far. You are doing a great job. I am looking for a similar project boat myself and hope something will come by soon. Reading through all the resto threads has given me boat fever. By the way, I am from Bainbridge (GA) so I'm not too far from you.

Thats what happened to me. Then I skied/drove a 76 natique a friend of mine has and decided to really look for a boat. I was looking at all brands really, and then my boat poped up on craigslist. I actually ski up on the Flint fairly often. On a bayliner 175 with a tower. Im the weirdo barefooting behind it. :)

Mr Mark
10-24-2012, 03:08 PM
Have you been able to locate an original MC operators manual for the 1990 Prostar? I found one from the original owner on Craigslist Portland with 230 hrs and bought it. I just drove it back home to Alaska, but am trying to get accurate information for things like winterization and regular maintenance. It seems as though there were some changes between the 1989, 1990 and 1991-93 models. My boat is in beautiful condition as this was the prior owner's baby. In fact, thats why he sold it because his family didn't enjoy boating due to his "overboard" attitude regarding cleanliness, scratches, etc. My gain, as I hope to keep the boat in superior condition. Thanks for any help. It looks like your project boat is at the opposite end of the spectrum.

nkorep2
10-24-2012, 11:36 PM
Have you been able to locate an original MC operators manual for the 1990 Prostar? I found one from the original owner on Craigslist Portland with 230 hrs and bought it. I just drove it back home to Alaska, but am trying to get accurate information for things like winterization and regular maintenance. It seems as though there were some changes between the 1989, 1990 and 1991-93 models. My boat is in beautiful condition as this was the prior owner's baby. In fact, thats why he sold it because his family didn't enjoy boating due to his "overboard" attitude regarding cleanliness, scratches, etc. My gain, as I hope to keep the boat in superior condition. Thanks for any help. It looks like your project boat is at the opposite end of the spectrum.

Without a doubt, this boat was the opposite of that. It will look good, and function well when Im done. I dont have any desire to make a show boat, but rather a fully functional usable boat. I havent even attempted to find anything like the owners manual to be honest. In reality, I'll end with a lot of after market parts that an original manual wont help that much. Also, I dont have to winterize in Florida, I plan on using the boat year-round. Send me some pics of your boat!

nkorep2
11-06-2012, 10:49 PM
So, I think Im largely done with fiberglass work. I glassed the last floor section in today. Now, its just odds and ends, cleaning up areas with the grinder potentially. Im gonna take the pressure washer to the boat and clean it all up. Then it will be time to work on buffing finally. Also, it looks like its time to really hit the motor at full speed. Ill be ordering more parts tonight or tomorrow, and will be working on getting it all assembled. Here's a couple of images of the last floor section in place.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HQnywR6PAL4/UJlFBHAE3bI/AAAAAAAAD80/JaGc8yK99yw/s640/2012-11-06_12-09-04_59.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4n-a3n8drbs/UJlFlcZalXI/AAAAAAAAD88/JirjiERVs50/s640/2012-11-06_12-09-27_713.jpg

Ive given the swim plateform 2 coats of oil and it now looks nice on both sides. Im also almost done with the side panels. They will be ready for upholstery as funds allow soon. Its coming together, and its exciting.

d2jp
11-07-2012, 01:45 PM
Have you been able to locate an original MC operators manual for the 1990 Prostar? I found one from the original owner on Craigslist Portland with 230 hrs and bought it. I just drove it back home to Alaska, but am trying to get accurate information for things like winterization and regular maintenance. It seems as though there were some changes between the 1989, 1990 and 1991-93 models. My boat is in beautiful condition as this was the prior owner's baby. In fact, thats why he sold it because his family didn't enjoy boating due to his "overboard" attitude regarding cleanliness, scratches, etc. My gain, as I hope to keep the boat in superior condition. Thanks for any help. It looks like your project boat is at the opposite end of the spectrum.

Congrats on your find. Most of what you'll need to know is available here, using the 'search' feature. Here is a link to the manual (http://www.mastercraft.com/files/manuals/1989-1990_OwnersManual-PS190.pdf), and while there are a few subtle changes between those years - the basics are the same. Here is a checklist for winterization. (http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=103139&postcount=6)
This page (http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=5427) is a great start to answering common questions!

nkorep2
11-17-2012, 01:20 AM
Got more work done this week.

I got the timing chain, timing chain cover, water pump and oil pump installed on the motor. I also found what looks like the exact replacement for the harmonic balancer at Oriely's, its from a '71 Mach 1. Ill get that possibly tomorrow, but def. on Sunday and install it.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4fIzu8udmpM/UKZ6qd6J_uI/AAAAAAAAECw/BcmyXz8DdEQ/s640/2012-11-16_12-38-17_749.jpg

I also assembled the tranny about 75%. I have a few plugs to replace, and then install little tidbits, but the transmission itself is together. The Reduction unit is about half way together or so.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K385ew3NPdU/UKbyOXp7xdI/AAAAAAAAEHw/ajHrBpX7_YA/s640/2012-11-16_21-01-28_445.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-oZ6MsjpLEl8/UKbzhTDZXFI/AAAAAAAAEIU/W5P6ADE6Hfc/s640/2012-11-16_21-09-14_838.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uXNukYX6k2U/UKbzZBUSmzI/AAAAAAAAEII/Qd3lSPeiCoE/s640/2012-11-16_21-11-06_787.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eBDlM6dc2V8/UKcIBadnI_I/AAAAAAAAEKU/XBjjkRM4rPU/s640/2012-11-16_22-35-13_335.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lUghtUdUXks/UKcg_PFbDzI/AAAAAAAAEPA/sr_Ky4v8jzM/s640/2012-11-17_00-29-58_960.jpg

One of my worries was about the pitting on the shaft, but it seems like its not where the seal sits so Im not expecting any leaks from there, which is awesome news. Wont know for sure until the thing runs. For those wondering about rebuilding a velvet drive, its actually not nearly as hard as it looks. Granted I havent run it yet and dont know if I messed something up, but the directions in the manual are pretty straight forward and its cool to learn how the transmission fits together. Once assembled, I will be giving both the motor and the tranny some more paint.

Im just about ready to purchase some heads. Ill be getting GT-40P heads. Ill also be looking at the distributors I have, it looks like one of them will work fine. Worst case senario, I'll change it later if its not the best option. Then Ill be looking at carb rebuild. I have the kit already. Its coming together, so exciting!

Gnargnar
11-17-2012, 02:27 AM
Awesome job.....great patience

Lumbergh
11-17-2012, 11:00 AM
Just amazing. Thanks for sharing your hard work!

h2oskifreak
11-17-2012, 11:49 AM
Others have stated as well, but you are a machine. I would have taken a year to get where you are. Not sure I would have thought the boat could have been revived. Good work, skills and vision. I am thinking you will enjoy her more when done than an owner who purchases a skiable boat and has not been where you are.

nkorep2
11-17-2012, 09:30 PM
Others have stated as well, but you are a machine. I would have taken a year to get where you are. Not sure I would have thought the boat could have been revived. Good work, skills and vision. I am thinking you will enjoy her more when done than an owner who purchases a skiable boat and has not been where you are.

You know, Ive really enjoyed the process. I know I wont ever want to sell the boat at anywhere near market value. It will be really cool to use it for the next couple decades :)

nkorep2
11-27-2012, 11:48 AM
Well, the balancer is installed. The transmission is together. I have to order an oil cooler and hoses and the thing should be ready to go. Here is a couple of images.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7T0uIR1saqY/ULKznuweVsI/AAAAAAAAEek/B3xwC02dxjg/s640/2012-11-25_19-05-28_617.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lhSqvoBE_aw/ULK03yR6HdI/AAAAAAAAEfI/CPCau82XGb8/s640/2012-11-25_19-05-00_459.jpg


My boat originally did not have a transmission heat alarm. I have a friend that has a similar set up in a hydrodyne and that boat does not have the heat alarm either. Is that something difficult to wire up or add? Seem like it could be a good thing to have.

The process continues!

strad
11-27-2012, 04:33 PM
Maybe an optical illusion. But is your pylon bent towards the starboard side?

nkorep2
11-27-2012, 08:47 PM
Maybe an optical illusion. But is your pylon bent towards the starboard side?

Its not an illusion, the pylon isnt attached, its just sitting there, Im using it to hold up the tarp that covers the boat. It isnt bolted down at all, so its leaning.

carlbernhard
11-28-2012, 08:50 AM
Awesome work. I have huge respect having just finished my rebuild. Admittedly I did not have many of the headaches you are dealing with but can appreciate the time and patience that gioes into a job like this. Would love to share ideas. I ended up cutting out the side rails on the gunwhales to allow for more movement in the boat. I moulded glass panels to fit into where the old pieces were removed. MC seemed to change the deck design after 90 and left thelong stainless hand rails out opting for a continuous line from mid to stern. Check out my thread prostar 190 rebuild and I would love to share ideas. I have not got to the engine yeat as mine is running fine. I am itching to do the reso of the boat justice with a sweet rebuild and some mods but the wallet is empty for now. Keep it up!
PS
I have the decal set in PDF for you that you could use. I also had my dash inserts laser cut and engraved in 316 stainless so could ask for the cad drawings and fwd to you.
Good luck with the wind shield...it is a huge nightmare to get it back. I used stainless 6mm bolts and ground the heads flat on a bench top grinder. This allows them into the base slot, but you need to exercise care when torquing them from beneath the bow as they can start to turn. Have a vice grip handy and use long bolts. This will allow you to grab the bolt end and torque using a 10mm wrench. I cut off the long ends of the bolts once wind shield was installed with a dremel.

carlbernhard
11-28-2012, 09:04 AM
Dont mean to hijack your thread but these may be of interest to you. It has allowed for a lot more movement inside the boat and allowed for much nicer upholstery finishes.

The gunwhale was cut away and new panels were moulded onto a masonite template.
87029
Next step was to glass the new panels into place. The crews show the timber support had been glassed into the bottom of the panels
87031
Screws were removed and holes filled/edges built up and faired carefully
87030
Finished product with new upholstery panel
87028

Good luck!

nkorep2
11-28-2012, 11:45 AM
Dont mean to hijack your thread but these may be of interest to you. It has allowed for a lot more movement inside the boat and allowed for much nicer upholstery finishes.

The gunwhale was cut away and new panels were moulded onto a masonite template.
87029
Next step was to glass the new panels into place. The crews show the timber support had been glassed into the bottom of the panels
87031
Screws were removed and holes filled/edges built up and faired carefully
87030
Finished product with new upholstery panel
87028

Good luck!


I like the idea, and Ive been a little annoyed with the awkward gunnel shape. But Im not sure that I wanna get rid of the grab handle. Id like to avoid messing with the visible fiberglass if I can. Im not planning on painting or anything like that, not yet anyway. Also, there is a good chance that I will use the handle to tie off bumpers or a place to store ski ropes.

I think I'll use your windshield mounting idea, I was trying to find replacement bolts, but your idea will work just fine. I already have replacement dash panels they are engraved plastic. Ill clear coat them, and see how they do. What would you suggest to repair the dash? The rubber coating on mine is cracked on top. I wasnt planning on upholstering mine like you did yours, but I havent decided how Im gonna fix it yet. Worse case senario, for the time being, I'll leave it alone for now.

I will be building a rear storage seat. What did you use for yours? I have a enough 3/4 in marine ply, that would work, but maybe a synthetic material would be better?

Finally, I love the pdf of the decals. Ill be replacing them last. could you email them? nikolai.korepanov@gmail.com

I absolutely love your boat!

mcparadise
11-28-2012, 03:06 PM
My boat originally did not have a transmission heat alarm. I have a friend that has a similar set up in a hydrodyne and that boat does not have the heat alarm either. Is that something difficult to wire up or add? Seem like it could be a good thing to have.

The process continues!

FWIW, both my indmar 98 5.0 L 305 and mercruiser 93 5.7 L 350 have a tranny hi temp alarm sender/switch. When I replaced the 350's sender due to the contacts corroding off, I confirmed with Bake's that the setpoint was 200 degrees, which is the same setpoint as that for hi temp coolant. I'll bet the 305 has the same setpoint.

If your tranny doesn't have one of these critters installed originally, adding one and wiring would be way too hard for me.

Hummm, it makes one wonder how useful is this alarm, considering some trannys don't even have?

SWGA Boater
11-28-2012, 08:59 PM
Followed up with the thread tonight. Great job. You have came a long way since I last checked. I finally found a Stars and Stripes boat to work on. Hope to have the floor/transon and mechanicals done by the Spring, then slowly start on the cosmetics.

Did you ever get rid of your fenders? Both of mine are not in really good shape. One could be repaired, but the other is busted and has too much missing. I wonder could they be retrofitted to an older trailer (77)? Also, where did you get your marine plywood? I have not been able to come up with any locally, Tallahassee was my next stop.

Ansley in Bainbridge

nkorep2
11-28-2012, 10:53 PM
FWIW, both my indmar 98 5.0 L 305 and mercruiser 93 5.7 L 350 have a tranny hi temp alarm sender/switch. When I replaced the 350's sender due to the contacts corroding off, I confirmed with Bake's that the setpoint was 200 degrees, which is the same setpoint as that for hi temp coolant. I'll bet the 305 has the same setpoint.

If your tranny doesn't have one of these critters installed originally, adding one and wiring would be way too hard for me.

Hummm, it makes one wonder how useful is this alarm, considering some trannys don't even have?

Id imagine its not such a big deal.

Followed up with the thread tonight. Great job. You have came a long way since I last checked. I finally found a Stars and Stripes boat to work on. Hope to have the floor/transon and mechanicals done by the Spring, then slowly start on the cosmetics.

Did you ever get rid of your fenders? Both of mine are not in really good shape. One could be repaired, but the other is busted and has too much missing. I wonder could they be retrofitted to an older trailer (77)? Also, where did you get your marine plywood? I have not been able to come up with any locally, Tallahassee was my next stop.

Ansley in Bainbridge

http://johnsonslumberandsupply.com/contactus.html You order it at their location on NW Capital Circle just west of 27. And can pick it up at the wholesaler off Capital Circle by the airport. Its not cheap, I think the 3/4in was about $80 for the 4x8 sheet. I sold the fenders several months ago. Not that Im free on time, but Id love to help or at least watch you rebuild yours. Im halfway thinking about getting an old MC next. Whats your motors condition? I wouldnt be much help with the wood repair, but I def know what the 351W looks like inside if thats what you have in there :)

SWGA Boater
11-28-2012, 11:16 PM
Thanks for the lumber link. Price is not too bad on the plywood for 3/4 inch. I found very similar online, but when you add freight the price skyrockets. I think I'm going to go with cypress for the stringers (easy to get), but I will also ask the lumber company about red cedar or douglas fir for the stringers. I haven't made my mind up about the transom. Thinking of going the no-rot route and use Coosa board, but it is also expensive--$250+ for a single 4x8 sheet + freight. I'm just worried about sealing the transon tie-downs and swim platform from seepage and eventual rot, but like my dad says boat is 35 years old and lasted this long.

Supposedly, the motor had been rebuilt two years ago but you know how that is...Going to try and pull the motor out this weekend. I'll break it down, see what it looks like and go from there. Hopefully, the PO was truthful about the motor. We shall see. I was thinking like you about getting a set of GT40 heads. Will go this route if there is a rebuild in the works. There was a set of GT40 heads I saw on the T'hassee Craigslist tonight for $200 OBO.

nkorep2
11-28-2012, 11:33 PM
Im thinking Ill by a complete set instead of marinizing them. Id also rather not by a set that might be cracked. But I think that set is $150 now.

carlbernhard
11-29-2012, 12:59 AM
I like the idea, and Ive been a little annoyed with the awkward gunnel shape. But Im not sure that I wanna get rid of the grab handle. Id like to avoid messing with the visible fiberglass if I can. Im not planning on painting or anything like that, not yet anyway. Also, there is a good chance that I will use the handle to tie off bumpers or a place to store ski ropes.

I think I'll use your windshield mounting idea, I was trying to find replacement bolts, but your idea will work just fine. I already have replacement dash panels they are engraved plastic. Ill clear coat them, and see how they do. What would you suggest to repair the dash? The rubber coating on mine is cracked on top. I wasnt planning on upholstering mine like you did yours, but I havent decided how Im gonna fix it yet. Worse case senario, for the time being, I'll leave it alone for now.

I will be building a rear storage seat. What did you use for yours? I have a enough 3/4 in marine ply, that would work, but maybe a synthetic material would be better?

Finally, I love the pdf of the decals. Ill be replacing them last. could you email them? nikolai.korepanov@gmail.com

I absolutely love your boat!
Re Dashboard: You have 2 options. You could take it somehwere and ask them to recover with Vinyl. I would not go the leather routs as I did. It is pricey and the finish is not as good as you would get with vinyl. Vinyl is stretched with heat and that allows them to get into all the curvatures. A seconf option is to strip off all the vinyl and clean off all the adhesive with a good solvent. If you need to sterengthen the dash you could put a layer of glass on the back panel. ( i havd a few cracks in mine ) You could then fill all the holes on the front and send it away to an autoshop for respraying. They will spray a few layers a 2k filler primer to finish is off really well and will then spray with a colour of your choice.
Re windshield. I put a layer of the spongy/neoprene material down that has adhesive on one side. I then put the windshield, part assembled on top and torquet the bolts down from below. Its important to torque them all down at the same time so as to get a decent fit and also to make sure that the alu base does not bend. MC used mild steel bolts for some reason ????????? i replaced with SS locknots. The rear eand of the windshield have 2 long self tapping screws that pull the frame towards the deck. Not sure if your have this. I would suggest filling the old holes and drilling new holes once you have fitted the wind whield again. It is very unlikely that you wll ,ine up to the same holes again.

Re the rear seat box.The fit is essential as you will need it to drop in perfectly into the area behind the cupholders. The base of the box would need a slight curvature to fit into the floor nice and snugly. You could screw you marine ply base down nice and tight and put a layer of glass on top ( just not over the screws ) Once glass has set you could remove screws and your ply will maintain the shape. Its much easier working with marine ply as you will need to construct the box with ss screws first and then glass outside and inside. The nasty job is getting a perfect finish on the outside. This will require lots of filling and block fairing until it is perfectly smooth. My box was initially larger so that the top of the seat was level with the deck of the boat. your passsengers then sit at deck level which is not ideal, but makes for a great sunbed and a huge storage area. I cut min down to allow for a seat back, and i cut the seat in half so as to allow for 2 separate seat lids. Good luck.
I will ask the printers for the decal file and send to you.

nkorep2
12-14-2012, 12:45 AM
An update:

I have moved the boat to a friends house that is willing to let me work on it there, it now has a cover to sit under. I started to buff the hull and see how pretty I can make it to motivate the project. Here's some pics. I used 600 and then 1000 grit sand paper, wet sanding it. Then a rubbing compound, followed by pre wax glaze. I have a wax to go, but the results are pretty staggering.

You can see the affect of the buffing in the first 2 pics. The third is off the transom. I have a ton of the boat to go. Its a slow process, but def worth it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-s-Miwt_RuZ8/UMav0JIkQFI/AAAAAAAAEng/ITOyNha6dJQ/s640/2012-12-10_14-20-59_688.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LUwEJgBsflQ/UMq51QWeKAI/AAAAAAAAErM/30cld-Wj1ig/s640/2012-12-11_11-12-51_115.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-de_tqa4VxRo/UMq5u7HWBVI/AAAAAAAAErE/ZILd3ThaHaY/s640/2012-12-11_11-13-09_116.jpg

I also started tearing down the rear motor mounts. They have givin me trouble including a broken thumb when I slammed it with a mallet. I got one side completely apart, Ive used the wire brush on the bench grinder and cleaned up most of the components, ill get pics tom. Priming, painting, and reassembly is next. Im still struggling with the other mount...I may have to replace it, but Im hoping to save it.

The most exciting part is I got cylinder heads!! I ordered GT40-P heads yesterday morning, and they flippin arrived today!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-EXPLORER-MOUNTAINEER-302-SBF-GT40P-CYLINDER-HEAD-/170913248869?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cb393665&vxp=mtr

They look nice. Brass plugs, stainless components, holes drilled to 1/2 inch. I got them for $600 for the pair. Im planning on installing them in the next couple days. I'll get pics as the process continues to unfold.

Also ordered more parts: Damper Plate, Oil cooler, and a few fittings. I need to figure out all the hardware needed for mounting flywheel/damper plate/ and bell housing. I have bags of bolts, need to figure out what goes where.

strad
12-14-2012, 03:41 PM
Ouch on the thumb. That sucks. Other than that the boat is coming along nicely.

nkorep2
12-16-2012, 12:10 AM
GT 40-p Heads are installed. Rockers are installed, just havent torqued them down yet. Here are some pics:

Make sure the gasket is installed correctly, there is a "front", the coolant passages must be in the back, also, if you can see little tabs in the front corners once installed, they are correct. You have to flip one of the gaskets to install it the correct way.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GfC7k_I9WD0/UM1VOq6JrKI/AAAAAAAAE2o/7jgx0sAJc7o/s640/2012-12-14_10-52-53_897.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uJ1S6a8ZSgE/UM1VVapycQI/AAAAAAAAE2w/93VkFxKHcTQ/s640/2012-12-14_12-06-53_645.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WRk-kt5LX70/UM1VfslVL2I/AAAAAAAAE24/xsBd4Yah-3c/s640/2012-12-14_12-58-27_476.jpg

And a teaser valve cover mock up:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NuO_u_5R25k/UM1VmncvkyI/AAAAAAAAE3A/j6mN9HiOv6E/s640/2012-12-14_13-14-57_196.jpg

Ill torque the rockers next, and install the intake. Ill work on getting the hull completely sanded and buffed. Waiting on some more parts too (damper plate, oil cooler, fittings). Should be here next week and I can finish the motor, and connect it to the tranny.

thatsmrmastercraft
12-16-2012, 12:39 AM
Looking good.

nkorep2
02-20-2013, 12:52 AM
Well I have gotten a bunch more work done over the last month or so. The motor is mated to the transmission. I gave up on my of the motor mounts, it was gone. So I replaced it. I save the other 3. Its looking nice now. I have to do a little more painting but its almost there. Gotta figure out how to get the thing in the boat. lower pulley and raw water pump are installed as well.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ztrMUnPIIo8/USRgwDPN2hI/AAAAAAAAFT4/DEydsCU9wEQ/s640/2013_%25202_20_%25200_35.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tH20LCKK4KA/USRg1NmSVRI/AAAAAAAAFUg/7RPcD--TE9Q/s640/2013_%25202_20_%25200_36.jpg
Bell housing attached.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oOPanvbry4s/USRg1zq7EqI/AAAAAAAAFUo/OovXMeyEBF4/s640/2013_%25202_20_%25200_36.jpg

It makes it much easier to install the 2 side bolts first to line up the splines on the shaft to the damper plate.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wB_qEKyl-ZM/USRg202l22I/AAAAAAAAFUw/juDVEOJ29Do/s640/2013_%25202_20_%25200_36.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-iqN-cGjIVGo/USRi1peWC7I/AAAAAAAAFVc/3ega4ncMtSA/s640/2013_%25202_20_%25200_44.jpg

This is before the 2 rear mounts were installed.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mYUe2AAk0RM/USRg4PJzpKI/AAAAAAAAFU4/J6dGzUsQJR4/s640/2013_%25202_20_%25200_36.jpg

Got the exhaust manifolds torn down. And as of right now, 1 of them reassembled with a new gasket.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1rv83j6ZA4I/USRg437JhmI/AAAAAAAAFVA/x2wHpDd1JiE/s640/2013_%25202_20_%25200_36.jpg


I have also installed the bow ring and lifting assembly, the rear tow hook. And buffed the entire outside of the boat. I need to do a little on the inside still. Im going to paint the bilge area a lighter color, like a white or grey. It will make it easier to see any oil leaks and I think it will look nicer. Still trying to figure out what to do about the drive shaft coupler that I need to replace, I dont wanna replace the whole thing, shaft and coupler, but the skidim.com suggested that its been a huge pain to match the coupler itself in the past.

Ironhorse
02-20-2013, 08:44 AM
Wow! I just found this thread and read all 8 pages. Keep up the great work!!

SWGA Boater
02-20-2013, 08:34 PM
Engine is looking nice. Keep the posts coming. Curious to see how the driveshaft alignment goes.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-20-2013, 09:02 PM
That is really coming together nicely.

nkorep2
02-20-2013, 11:57 PM
Engine is looking nice. Keep the posts coming. Curious to see how the driveshaft alignment goes.

Well, I cut the old one to get it out. The coupler was completely rusted, I dont think it was going to release. So, avoiding the headache, Im gonna be buying a new one. I will install the motor, get it running first, without worrying about alignment, and then get the alignment done. People do it all the time, I imagine it cant be impossible to do.

nkorep2
02-22-2013, 12:29 AM
I got more work done today. Im trying to see if I can get the motor in the boat by next weekend, thats the goal at least. I attached exhaust manifolds to the motor, primed, painted. I also painted the bilge with the first coat of grey bilge paint. I think it will look great when its done.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cf9MIbAvUuI/USb9_J-lYlI/AAAAAAAAFXA/sOeMgrAX6_E/s640/2013_%25202_22_%25200_11.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IHs8KmnUL3w/USb-ABQENvI/AAAAAAAAFXI/_aqOsFjajgo/s640/2013_%25202_22_%25200_11.jpg

I also starter work on the fuel tank. The tank level sender has seen better days. I need to get a new one and also replace the fuel pick up.

Here's a couple images.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5CNamgInDHI/USb-_NF__oI/AAAAAAAAFXQ/_rzJyoKVm44/s640/2013_%25202_22_%25200_15.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Em1Jx8G6BR4/USb_AoQRmWI/AAAAAAAAFXY/VOKHjSV0dVM/s640/2013_%25202_22_%25200_15.jpg

rjracin240
02-22-2013, 12:04 PM
I also starter work on the fuel tank. The tank level sender has seen better days. I need to get a new one and also replace the fuel pick up.

Here's a couple images.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5CNamgInDHI/USb-_NF__oI/AAAAAAAAFXQ/_rzJyoKVm44/s640/2013_%25202_22_%25200_15.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Em1Jx8G6BR4/USb_AoQRmWI/AAAAAAAAFXY/VOKHjSV0dVM/s640/2013_%25202_22_%25200_15.jpg[/QUOTE]

Can you keep us posted on your fuel sender work, as I have some to do myself on my 88 190

Thanks, project is looking great.

nkorep2
02-23-2013, 01:03 AM
Got more done today. Installed the starter, oil pressure sensor, and cleaned up the drive shaft seal. I also painted the pick up loops for the engine and will bolt them on this weekend. The fuel/water separator cap was also painted.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-IZhxLC-ktKc/UShaLCX3w1I/AAAAAAAAFY8/5v7nPr_aOv0/s640/2013_%25202_23_%25200_56.jpg

A package came today from skidim.com, it has 2 transmission hoses, a raw water pump impellar, and thermostat. I ordered a new drive shaft with coupler, it should be coming in towards the mid to end of next week. Also, I got my second-hand alternator tested. It checks out, so I dont have to spend $150-$200 bucks on a new marine alternator as of now. Working hard to get this thing together asap!

nkorep2
02-27-2013, 10:47 PM
Check out what came in!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-428_UC-NNoI/US7SU6YRdOI/AAAAAAAAFbs/1_ucfH2Xz9c/s640/2013_%25202_27_22_43.jpg

I have to get some carpeting done and I can work on getting the beast into the boat. I found a steel fab shop not far from the house that has a fork lift. They agreed to help me get my motor into the boat. I was hoping for this week, but that doesnt look like it will happen. Maybe next.

I started tearing into the carb. It def needed it. Im still not sure if Ill end up replacing with a new one or not. For now Ill try to rebuild this 4160. Its a learning opportunity.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-MpDvf2yudxI/US7STNzeaJI/AAAAAAAAFbc/vpA2nNnDWwk/s640/2013_%25202_27_22_43.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NqgM0lV43qE/US7SQ9dEtDI/AAAAAAAAFbU/eB5CkBxRS2E/s640/2013_%25202_27_22_42.jpg

I got another coat of paint down on the bilge too.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-27-2013, 11:07 PM
If you need any assistance on the rebuild, I will be more than happy to assist. The most important part is to soak it long enough.

nkorep2
02-27-2013, 11:22 PM
If you need any assistance on the rebuild, I will be more than happy to assist. The most important part is to soak it long enough.

I likely will need some help along the way. I have just about all the parts soaking now. I did take the plates in the 4 barrels apart and stripped the screws in the process, in hindsight, I probably should have just left those alone. Live and learn. Does this create a big problem or are the screws easily replaced? Im hoping all the parts that I need to replace are in the kit I got. There are little snap rings/clips that hold stuff in place that are really small and some are quite corroded, i think they need to be replaced.

As I get going, Ill be asking other questions along the way.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-27-2013, 11:32 PM
I likely will need some help along the way. I have just about all the parts soaking now. I did take the plates in the 4 barrels apart and stripped the screws in the process, in hindsight, I probably should have just left those alone. Live and learn. Does this create a big problem or are the screws easily replaced? Im hoping all the parts that I need to replace are in the kit I got. There are little snap rings/clips that hold stuff in place that are really small and some are quite corroded, i think they need to be replaced.

As I get going, Ill be asking other questions along the way.

All the small parts are in the kit. Any stripped screws need to be replaced. Check locally for them. I found the screws here http://www.aedperformance.com/Replacement%20Parts.htm

You might give Holley Tech a call. The stock screws should be cheaper. 270-781-9741

SWGA Boater
02-28-2013, 09:15 PM
I'll let you practice on your carb. When your up to it I'll send mine your way!8p

nkorep2
03-01-2013, 02:01 PM
All the small parts are in the kit. Any stripped screws need to be replaced. Check locally for them. I found the screws here http://www.aedperformance.com/Replacement%20Parts.htm

You might give Holley Tech a call. The stock screws should be cheaper. 270-781-9741

I found a guy in town that had them. He ask, "Whyd you take them out?" I replied, "Cause Im an idiot and didnt know any better." and in his grand father tone he said, "Welp, you're in a predicament arent you? Lets see if I can bail you out". He gave be 4 screws, 2 went in right away, the other 2 are being stubborn. I will get back to it next week. The Fuel Bowls are in place and a few other things are together on it too. Im having trouble understanding how the electric choke works. The diagram I have for reassembly is for a mechanical choke. I have a spring, and I didnt take close enough photos to understand the intricacies of it.

I'll let you practice on your carb. When your up to it I'll send mine your way!8p

In general it doesnt seem to be that big a deal really. Just dont take the screws out of the valves in the baseplate! I could give it a go if you want, but by no means am I willing to give you a guarantee of proper function afterwards. Lets find out how mine ends up working and I may change my mind.

nkorep2
03-06-2013, 11:22 PM
I got the carb almost completely back together. I have to get another choke cap and then that part can be reassembled. I finished applying a coat of bilge paint to the rest of the floor in the boat. It looks nice, kinda a shame I have to cover it with carpet. I also installed the shaft seal, its not a big deal, I just mostly wanted to see what it looked like. I havent ordered carpet yet, looking for a good deal I guess.

here are some updated pics.

Carb with a few missing things:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2C8rXEReW8c/UTQfmSfC8lI/AAAAAAAAFgo/lcuMIpS2iUw/s640/2013_%25203_%25203_23_14.jpg

Carb underside:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SV99Ke-51fI/UTgVQ4a655I/AAAAAAAAFkg/zoyk3bdfzLw/s640/2013_%25203_%25206_23_17.jpg

Shaft seal:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Bfb_Boi39vA/UTgTqQNi_vI/AAAAAAAAFkU/J_9RTRGUV5c/s640/2013_%25203_%25206_23_12.jpg

Painted Floor:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kyhEijElU4g/UTgTnC6tqqI/AAAAAAAAFkE/ZTZ9BLuI-_A/s640/2013_%25203_%25206_23_12.jpg

The choke and vacuum pump for the secondary are what is left to attach on the carb.
I might order carpet tonight.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-06-2013, 11:33 PM
Maybe it's just the angle, but the accelerator pump arm doesn't appear to be square with the bolt it mates with. Might want to double check all is right here.

nkorep2
03-06-2013, 11:48 PM
Maybe it's just the angle, but the accelerator pump arm doesn't appear to be square with the bolt it mates with. Might want to double check all is right here.

No its not the angle, its not square, but Im not really sure why? And Im not sure what effect this will have if any on the function?

Maybe you could enlighten me? On of the other things Ive noticed is that the butterfly valves, the primary ones move very freely until I want to close them, then they seem to bind up a little somewhere. Im pretty sure that is an issue that needs to be addressed.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-06-2013, 11:59 PM
No its not the angle, its not square, but Im not really sure why? And Im not sure what effect this will have if any on the function?

Maybe you could enlighten me? On of the other things Ive noticed is that the butterfly valves, the primary ones move very freely until I want to close them, then they seem to bind up a little somewhere. Im pretty sure that is an issue that needs to be addressed.

If the accelerator pump arm isn't square with the bolt it contacts with, it could slip off the edge of the bolt and get hung up. I would remove the arm and housing and slightly bend the arm to get them to line up better. Be sure not to cause a bind in the arm/housing.

As I recall, you removed the throttle blades and had issues with the screws. If you did not get the throttle blades perfectly square when you re-installed them, they are likely offset slightly and binding on one side of the throttle body. You should be able to see this with careful inspection. Just a matter of loosening the screw a little and getting it perfect. Take your time to get this right as you don't want a situation where this could bind and not close.

nkorep2
03-07-2013, 10:37 AM
If the accelerator pump arm isn't square with the bolt it contacts with, it could slip off the edge of the bolt and get hung up. I would remove the arm and housing and slightly bend the arm to get them to line up better. Be sure not to cause a bind in the arm/housing.

As I recall, you removed the throttle blades and had issues with the screws. If you did not get the throttle blades perfectly square when you re-installed them, they are likely offset slightly and binding on one side of the throttle body. You should be able to see this with careful inspection. Just a matter of loosening the screw a little and getting it perfect. Take your time to get this right as you don't want a situation where this could bind and not close.


So as Ive been working through this, Ive been told there is supposed to be teflon bushing on the throttle shaft. Im 100% sure when I removed it that there was no bushing. How can that be? Am I missing something?

The plates were lining up wrong, I'll keep playing with it.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-07-2013, 10:50 AM
So as Ive been working through this, Ive been told there is supposed to be teflon bushing on the throttle shaft. Im 100% sure when I removed it that there was no bushing. How can that be? Am I missing something?

The plates were lining up wrong, I'll keep playing with it.

As I recall, there is a bushing inside the throttle body with seals at either end of the shaft. Typically these aren't disassembled this far as the throttle body can be cleaned sufficiently with a can of carb cleaner and brushes. I would give the guys at Holley Tech a call.

Same thing with throttle blades are not normally removed unless there is an issue.

nkorep2
03-07-2013, 11:16 AM
As I recall, there is a bushing inside the throttle body with seals at either end of the shaft. Typically these aren't disassembled this far as the throttle body can be cleaned sufficiently with a can of carb cleaner and brushes. I would give the guys at Holley Tech a call.

Same thing with throttle blades are not normally removed unless there is an issue.

Hide sight is 20/20....

nkorep2
03-28-2013, 12:58 AM
Well I got a heck of a lot done. My dad came down to help me out.

I rebuilt the carb, figured out that not all of the carbs had teflon bushings. It thus makes sense why I didnt see any when I pulled the throttle shaft. SWGA Boater, Id be willing to give yours a whirl. But it is very pleasing to get it done yourself.

We carpeted the front floor panel before installing the motor. Im not sure if I had to do that or not. However, I didnt want to take the chance with the motor in place and not being able to install that panel. I think I actually will be able to remove it fairly easily with the motor mounted anyway.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W_CogJt3dnU/UU0pGqGYuzI/AAAAAAAAFoM/0Yt0wl3Aoeg/s640/2013_%25203_23_%25200_%25201.jpg

I found a local metal shop that had a fork lift. I paid them to get the motor into the boat.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rJ__HFajGCE/UVO6iPZr1lI/AAAAAAAAF2s/OfVXAmFQ0Rg/s640/2013_%25203_27_23_35.jpg

Here is the motor being loaded on the trailer. Sucker is heavy!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cZf8m3LMwp4/UVO6lb2HMjI/AAAAAAAAF20/Y5fD57-sMb8/s640/2013_%25203_27_23_35.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VOz7aKHDzKk/UU0pP4GzynI/AAAAAAAAFok/r8zjsAeQcd0/s640/2013_%25203_23_%25200_%25201.jpg

Here it is, about a year after the previous owner removed it. Back in place, kinda. It still needs to be aligned to the propeller shaft. Take your time, and then using a little bit of muscle, the bolts should align. It makes sense to mount the bolts up side down, with the nut on top. In these pictures they are not arranged in this manner. But that was only temporary.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-cDZd86G6xeg/UVO66G5Mb6I/AAAAAAAAF3c/qOAGm7xSx_w/s640/2013_%25203_27_23_37.jpg

Heres the electrical process. A lot of the wires were corroded, so they had to be replaced. Crimp lugs were installed, with heat shrink tubing. Colors of the wires dont really match to any diagram, but I dont really care. That doesnt matter much.

We ended up not utilizing the 8 prone harness connectors, which were corroded. Instead, we just attached the wires to the terminal block panel, or whatever you call that thing. The starter relay was initially replaced, but it was found to be faulty, and the old one seems to work just fine. Ill replace it in the future if need be. A new 50 amp breaker was wired into the system.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dTJPrkrCgGI/UVO78XiqkBI/AAAAAAAAF6Y/7td3zRWRcGw/s640/2013_%25203_27_23_41.jpg

This is an image of the breaker mount. Its one of the 5 brackets I ended up fabricating. You can also see the terminal block, on it is the relay mount

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9BaszAtayYQ/UU0pyDtY31I/AAAAAAAAFp8/pJCQbbooL2o/s640/2013_%25203_23_%25200_%25204.jpg

Raw Water Pump Bracket

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5G5Y5Y8fZRQ/UVO71TLO0JI/AAAAAAAAF6I/Utgp15niCv0/s640/2013_%25203_27_23_41.jpg

Alternator Bracket. The way the Alternator was mounted when I got the boat was incorrect. Here is an image of the Indmar Bracket that was supposed to be present. They are no available anywhere, so I decided to build one.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g_aHEIiixQU/UVPJVIPhqTI/AAAAAAAAF7E/da3F0TiZ_JY/s640/2013_%25203_28_%25200_38.jpg

I also built a bracket for the external balast resistor and fuel/water separator.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WVZxhI3YaXE/UVPJ-qwxpMI/AAAAAAAAF7M/PuH4APlC0Ds/s640/2013_%25203_28_%25200_41.jpg

I installed the water strainer, and installed all coolant hoses. Fuel Lines were installed.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_OG9WPJd_-Y/UVO7iA62lHI/AAAAAAAAF5Y/Fsh4wkm-B68/s640/2013_%25203_27_23_39.jpg

Basically, everything on the motor was set up to fire it up and a new ignition switch was installed. We initially had an issue with the distributor. The internals needed to be cleaned, and then we had a spark. Once we figured out the timing, which will still be adjusted a little, we had a power!

I had to replaced battery cables which were heavily corroded on the inside. The new ones are well sealed and should last for a very long time.

With all this work, I also managed to get the old cutlass bearings out. Those things are a PITA. It seemed like a little hack saw worked the best. This way you dont damage the strut. Just take your time, and cut two slits in the bearing, and it slides out fairly easily.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HhsO4r7wHaY/UU0plKVFyOI/AAAAAAAAFpc/ZqVLK_nYDgA/s640/2013_%25203_23_%25200_%25203.jpg

Here you can see my tools and the 2 cut bearings.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-wVZTd6K6fuo/UU0pnSLf7uI/AAAAAAAAFpk/XLG3z2FLrhY/s640/2013_%25203_23_%25200_%25203.jpg

And there is the new bearings installed. Makes sure you get the correct sized bearings as they change if you have a powerslot transmission or not.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UCjNvNUB1DA/UVO7yWEGyuI/AAAAAAAAF6A/HYAQ2CplRTE/s640/2013_%25203_27_23_40.jpg

This is just an overhead view of the motor. Feels good to have this part of the process almost complete.

As a final treat, heres a link to the video of the things running! I love the sound!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BbUgdffYKM

Ignore the extra cap on the distributor, I used the old cap to hold the new cap down. I need to source new hold down clips to keep my cap in place.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

mikeg205
03-28-2013, 11:08 AM
looking awesome!

freehugs
03-28-2013, 12:49 PM
What a sweet sound. It's like music!

Ski-me
03-28-2013, 01:12 PM
Wow, amazing progress on this thing! Sweet.

nkorep2
03-30-2013, 10:17 PM
So I worked on aligning the motor, I did so by removing the seal, and putting the new shaft in place, I attached the coupler to the tranny. Once I had it pretty dang close, I put the seal back on, and went on attaching the coupler to the shaft. I ran into an issue, the threads on my shaft must be too long, the staff touches the input shaft on the transmission and the couplers don't touch. What's the best way to fix this? Shave the shaft? Washers as spacers?

Also I started testing my gauges, tach, temp, volts, work well. The oil pressure gauge is off, I think the pressure is probably fine, but it reads beyond 80. Does an automotive oil pressure sensor differ from marine? That might be the issue.

Also working on getting the tuning situated. Can someone explain where all the breather hoses are supposed to go?

nkorep2
05-12-2013, 12:02 AM
Here's an update.

Rear tow hooks installed with a 1/4 stainless steel backing plate.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U3RN5xMtDGk/UY8RX_0yCvI/AAAAAAAAGdQ/AtKpVd-zPWA/s640/2013_%25205_11_23_49.jpg

Rudder box installed, 5200 marine sealant was used. New grease fittings installed on steering cable. Still need a bracket for the steering cable. Here's before and after. I just noticed that i attached the cable on top, and it was on bottom originally. I'll fix that.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G1Oi3wiHRfo/T7XLIYZc4DI/AAAAAAAACT4/z8Y9SQeRgtA/s640/2012-05-17_23-38-46_834.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--Wv7BejdI18/UY8RUpJNcdI/AAAAAAAAGdI/OGEbKSJqtSI/s640/2013_%25205_11_23_49.jpg

I cut out backing boards for interior pieces. They are at a local upholstery shop. Im going with a simple/functional upholstery job. It wont look original at all.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TsQkAmJn4V8/UY8RdrgCukI/AAAAAAAAGdg/g3KJKI2TY3U/s640/2013_%25205_11_23_50.jpg

New Fuel tank sending unit. I still am waiting for the fuel pickup tube that I ordered last week.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-otLmW1NuoWQ/UY8RfuWbbDI/AAAAAAAAGdo/86n3WBsUjt8/s640/2013_%25205_11_23_50.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0v2Ci7nUDO4/UY8Rh1sLf-I/AAAAAAAAGdw/xEJ-FDn1Eyg/s640/2013_%25205_11_23_50.jpg

Installed throttle control assembly, with newish cables that I pulled from the other boat I got with the trailer that I originally was wanting.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ZOzN_H9eXCo/UY8Rkh4F-CI/AAAAAAAAGd4/cW6_vhZhfKA/s640/2013_%25205_11_23_50.jpg

Here she is sitting on the trailer. :)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o1mdD7Uj_90/UY8RRdQ-RTI/AAAAAAAAGdA/EQsMINDl0OU/s640/2013_%25205_11_23_49.jpg



I also decided to convert the distributor. Im not getting a consistent spark, so I have had trouble keeping the boat running. I did get it to idle at 800-900 rpm :D. Im so ready for it to be done. :)

thatsmrmastercraft
05-12-2013, 12:06 AM
Nice progress.

nkorep2
05-14-2013, 06:23 PM
Electronic distributor conversion installed. Fired up on first turn of the key and idled at 6-700rpm. :) Check out the video. :)

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lsgdcCFi5dQ

XavierSPL
05-22-2013, 11:19 AM
Truly inspiring work!!!

nkorep2
05-22-2013, 10:41 PM
Truly inspiring work!!!

Thanks, its been really fun for the most part.

Ive gotten more work done. Im hoping to do a trial run on the river on friday, just do some testing, boats not nearly done. Installed fuel tank sending unit, But, I did install the swim platform for motivation. Used 5200 marine sealant. Here are some shots.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pjmtfLol2mk/UZ1_GUAlvGI/AAAAAAAAGew/yJGyF3s5rwg/s640/2013_%25205_22_22_29.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zf5VcEUlzeo/UZ1_MptrAGI/AAAAAAAAGfQ/gxC2vnZz0Vo/s640/2013_%25205_22_22_30.jpg

And I picked up the drivers seat. The image is smooshed, Im not sure why.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EYMP4FTIxPk/UZ1_E-hk7qI/AAAAAAAAGeo/5pe_l_lecE4/s640/2013_%25205_22_22_29.jpg

All the interior is being done in simple white. Im going for function over looks anyway.

Wish me luck tomorrow to tie some loose ends up and see if she floats on Friday!

CC2MC
05-22-2013, 11:37 PM
Wow. It is looking great! Talk about a labor of love.

Longdrive
05-23-2013, 11:44 AM
Great Job....Good Luck!

SWGA Boater
05-23-2013, 07:23 PM
Looking good! Hope everything goes well with the trial run.. Are you going to the Flint?

Got my carb rebuilt, water/fuel separator has arrived. All new fuel hose, vent, and fill hose should arrive tomorrow. Siphoned out fuel in the tank, then removed tank for a clean and pressure wash. Putting it all back together tomorrow. Fingers crossed, I hope to get on the water this weekend.

nkorep2
05-23-2013, 08:45 PM
Im not getting to try it tomorrow, the throw out bearing on my jeep went out yesterday so that has been a priority, I need a transmission rebuild too...so i have to slow down on the MC.

d2jp
05-24-2013, 07:19 PM
Dang man, you've done a ton of great work bringing her back to life - good luck with the Jeep!

nkorep2
05-30-2013, 11:07 PM
Well, I got more stuff done! Got the passenger cushions back, they look nice and feel really nice. Installed bilge, and blower. Still need a blower hose. I built a steering cable bracket, but need to adjust it. Its a temp bracket, i wanna use the boat and I will replace it with one out of aluminum soon.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-iiMuRNRDmXY/UagRh8UznZI/AAAAAAAAGgw/WrRosTw-2-4/s640/2013_%25205_30_22_57.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e4xv6AyrioY/UagRvxJ3F2I/AAAAAAAAGhQ/vAl-TYB8dDQ/s640/2013_%25205_30_22_57.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cj2xDwW9ddE/UagR4PKSjQI/AAAAAAAAGhg/H-iHDuWbvnw/s640/2013_%25205_30_22_58.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pyWNyCh5Nzw/UagR6gjtk0I/AAAAAAAAGho/RAp5xmAB1E8/s640/2013_%25205_30_22_58.jpg

And, I took her on her maiden voyage! Heres the video. Ran well without any issues. Ive been running the motor in the drive way quite a bit. On this run, I took it up to 2500 rpm. Im ready to get skiing!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zmBUBC7HTxc/UagSFIgOFVI/AAAAAAAAGh4/T0-vvA3xAR8/s640/2013_%25205_30_22_59.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uRWzEvaWsT4/UagSMMVOIlI/AAAAAAAAGiI/bfGdkbrcZLU/s640/2013_%25205_30_22_59.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IZ63eFs_mWQ/UagSO6-b5jI/AAAAAAAAGiQ/_aWBl8bPcu4/s640/2013_%25205_30_23_%25200.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77A_laPf1K8&list=UUeJo6fRwqNMARgfXskOOWOA&index=1

Carpet, and finalizing the interior is next. Windshield as well. Ill be taking the boat down to the Suwannee river next weekend to do some skiing if everything goes to plan. Ill be doing more testing until then.


:D:D:D:D

SWGA Boater
05-31-2013, 09:07 AM
Looking good! Interior looks really nice. There were a few MCs on the Flint this past weekend that I saw when being towed back to the landing....Hopefully just a stuck thermostat.

nkorep2
05-31-2013, 01:51 PM
Ew that's no fun. Boat just start overheating?

catamount
05-31-2013, 05:21 PM
It's looking great! Would you mind sharing what carpet you're using? I like the look of it.

nkorep2
05-31-2013, 05:51 PM
It's looking great! Would you mind sharing what carpet you're using? I like the look of it.

Got it from Corinthian, I don't remember the name, I'd have to look it up, I'm actually worried, I don't think I ordered enough, we will soon see.

MikeyOrange88
06-03-2013, 09:42 PM
@catamount: Looks like the same stuff I recently put in mine, Corinthian Greystone, 28 oz. http://corinthian-marine-carpet.com/products/12/61
They also have a similar color/pattern called Storm which is 17 oz.

sd209
06-10-2013, 06:42 PM
u inspire me my man!!!!!!

nkorep2
06-10-2013, 10:47 PM
Well as an update, Ive got a problem....been running and testing the motor and such and I have a tranny leak. Im assuming its the front seal on the input shaft that was pitted. Im gonna test some more and see if I can pin point. I may end up pulling the transmission. :mad:

NWMike
06-11-2013, 01:57 AM
That is looking nice. Love the older Prostars.

88-190
07-16-2013, 10:29 PM
That is not good, sorry to hear it. I've enjoyed reading your progress. I'm thinking of pulling my tranny to fix a leak as well instead of paying someone to do it. I don't have a chain hoist, is there a "relatively" easy way to do it without? I don't want to get things disassembled and find myself in over my head.

Thanks

nkorep2
07-16-2013, 11:15 PM
That is not good, sorry to hear it. I've enjoyed reading your progress. I'm thinking of pulling my tranny to fix a leak as well instead of paying someone to do it. I don't have a chain hoist, is there a "relatively" easy way to do it without? I don't want to get things disassembled and find myself in over my head.

Thanks

I actually don't have a leak anymore, apparently the seals can swell or expand and stop leaking once they reach operating temp. I've run the boat again 2 times for a couple hours each time and have no leaking. The seal replacement is really easy. It's hard to get in over your head if you are at all handy and take your time. It's like 6 bolts holding the transmission to the bell housing. You won't really need a chain hoist, although it may be the cheapest option. you'd be able to hold the motor up with an engine hoist while you pull the tranny. Then you remove 4 bolts holding the pump housing in place making note if the direction of the arrow, hammer out old seal, put in a new one and put everything back together.

You might wanna consider replacing other components too like clutch plates if you're pulling tranny anyway. If everything runs fine, then I wouldn't touch it.

Good luck !

Pixxi
10-26-2013, 11:20 AM
Fantastic, really impressive. Cheers!