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tdjaster
04-24-2012, 07:59 AM
Looks like yesterday's crash deleted my post asking this question, so I'll ask again.

I've got a '98 Sportstar that needs the shaft seal/packing replaced.

Question #1: What's a ballpark figure for what this would cost at the dealership?

Question #2: Is this something I can do at home? I'm pretty handy working on the boat but have never done anything with drivetrain.

Thanks!

Kyle
04-24-2012, 08:41 AM
Looks like yesterday's crash deleted my post asking this question, so I'll ask again.

I've got a '98 Sportstar that needs the shaft seal/packing replaced.

Question #1: What's a ballpark figure for what this would cost at the dealership?

Question #2: Is this something I can do at home? I'm pretty handy working on the boat but have never done anything with drivetrain.

Thanks!

The rope packing is probably needing replacement or tightened.

Answer #1: a dealer probably wouldn't do it for less than one hour so $100-$200 for the labor to install packing.

Answer #2: if you are handy and can work a wrench then I'm sure you are plenty capable in tackling this project. Probably in reality it's a 1.5 hour job or 2-3 beer task.

1) acces the seal, remove rear floor section.

2) make sure that the hose clamps are tight.

3) loosen the thin lock nut that keeps cap nut tight. (you may get away with just tightening up the cap nut and stopping the leak then retighten lock nut) if replacing then remove cap nut.

4) dig out the 3-4 pieces of rope packing with a pick or some kind of sharp instrument that can be used to dig around in the stuffing box. Needle nose pliers will be needed too.

5) shaft diameter depends on the thickness of rope packing you need. Cut 3 pieces that will wrap around the shaft 1 time. Repack the rope back into the log offsetting the seams so one seam is at 12 o'clock the next 4 o'clock the last one 9 o'clock. It will leak if you install with all of the seams being in the same location.

6) retighten cap nut and lock nut. Leak should be 1 drip per minute with rope packing. If you want a drip less system they are $200-$300 and you must remove shaft for installation. A more detailed job but not hard.

7) drink a few more beers and be glad you saved $200. The rope packing is like $10 (labor $200 plus time and fuel to drag boat to the dealer) there is no need to spend that kind of money on this project. If you can change oil, tranny fluid, winterize, grease cables and berings, or fight a prop off then this job is doable for you. It is by no means a hard task. Just 1-2 hours and a few beers.


Hope this helps

tdjaster
04-24-2012, 08:46 AM
The rope packing is probably needing replacement or tightened.

Answer #1: a dealer probably wouldn't do it for less than one hour so $100-$200 for the labor to install packing.

Answer #2: if you are handy and can work a wrench then I'm sure you are plenty capable in tackling this project. Probably in reality 1.5 hour job or 2-3 beer task.

1) acces the seal, remove rear floor section.

2) make sure that the hose clamps are tight.

3) loosen the thin lock nut that keeps cap nut tight. (you may get away with just tightening up the cap nut and stopping the leak then retighten lock nut) if replacing then remove cap nut.

4) dig out the 3-4 pieces of rope packing with a pick or some kind of sharp instrument that can be used to dig around in the stuffing box. Needle nose pliers will be needed too.

5) shaft diameter depends on the thickness of rope packing you need. Cut 3 pieces that will wrap around the shaft 1 time. Repack the rope back into the log offsetting the seams so one seam is at 12 o'clock the next 4 o'clock the last one 9 o'clock. It will leak if you install with all of the seams being in the same location.

6) retighten cap nut and lock nut. Leak should be 1 per minute with rope packing. If you want a drip less system they are $200-$300 and you must remove shaft for installation. A more detailed job but not hard.

7) drink a few more beers and be glad you saved $200. The rope packing is like $10 and there is no need to spend that kind of money on this project. If you can change oil, tranny fluid, winterize, grease cables abs berings, or fight a prop off then this job is doable for you. It is by no means a hard task. Just 1-2 hours and a few beers.


Hope this helps



1.5 hours and 2-3 beers....I like your style.

Looks like this will be my next project. Do I get the rope packing at any dealership, West Marine, etc.?

I've definitely done oil changes, spark plugs, rotor, cap, etc. so I think this will be possible for me. I will let you know over the next week or so what happens (we'll be out of town this weekend so I'm not sure when I'll be able to get to it.

If anyone else have other tips/insight, please share.

Thanks!

-V-
04-24-2012, 09:07 AM
1.5 hours and 2-3 beers....I like your style.

Looks like this will be my next project. Do I get the rope packing at any dealership, West Marine, etc.?

I've definitely done oil changes, spark plugs, rotor, cap, etc. so I think this will be possible for me. I will let you know over the next week or so what happens (we'll be out of town this weekend so I'm not sure when I'll be able to get to it.

If anyone else have other tips/insight, please share.

Thanks!

Don't go to west marine, unless you like to pay alot. Call Skimdim, he can hook you up with a couple feet of GFO for around $20. It is suppose to be better than regular Flax Packing, and it is made of a Gortex material.

Since you are in San Antonio, head up and see Jason at TSR. He was really helpful to me when I lived there, and I call him sometimes to ask him questions about stuff. I can't wait to get back to San Antonio, I miss the weather, and Lake Austin.

Kyle
04-24-2012, 09:11 AM
Get the rope packing at your dealer, west marine, online overtons, skidim, etc.

Now as far as your rope thickness Mastercraft has 2 sizes. One is for a 1 1/8" shaft for slot tranny and one for 1" shaft for non slot tranny.

I would look around here or maybe someone will chime in on the size you need to buy. The rope packing is wax rope. The quality of product will be the same wherever you get it, so make it easy on yourself. Just make sure you buy the right rope size.

Kyle
04-24-2012, 09:15 AM
I have used wax rope on my boat and have never used GFO. Either way it's a pretty inexpensive task.

CantRepeat
04-24-2012, 09:18 AM
1.5 hours and 2-3 beers....I like your style.

Looks like this will be my next project. Do I get the rope packing at any dealership, West Marine, etc.?

I've definitely done oil changes, spark plugs, rotor, cap, etc. so I think this will be possible for me. I will let you know over the next week or so what happens (we'll be out of town this weekend so I'm not sure when I'll be able to get to it.

If anyone else have other tips/insight, please share.

Thanks!

2 to 3 beers? wt, I think Kyle needs to pick up the pace!!! On the beer drinking that is! This is easily 12 pack job! :D

Kyle
04-24-2012, 09:25 AM
2 to 3 beers? wt, I think Kyle needs to pick up the pace!!! On the beer drinking that is! This is easily 12 pack job! :D

Tim, I agree with you 100%. I just didn't want to come off like a raging alcoholic to the newbie at 8am. ;)

Cheers

tdjaster
04-24-2012, 11:11 AM
Tim, I agree with you 100%. I just didn't want to come off like a raging alcoholic to the newbie at 8am. ;)

Cheers

Awesome.

tdjaster
04-24-2012, 11:12 AM
Awesome.

Ha! That quote reply actually just bumped me from Newbie status to Regular! I feel so accomplished. I think I might take the rest of the day off. :D

wtrskr
04-24-2012, 11:35 PM
I did mine with the GFO packing from skidim. Since it is such a lightweight item you can request that they send it regular mail and avoid the shipping costs.

It is really quite easy. You'll need a pipe wrench or two to undo the nuts. After installing the packing you should only need to tighten the nut back on by hand. I found that just turning it snug by hand created about the perfect drip rate and didn't require hardly any adjustment after checking it while on the water.

Kyle
04-24-2012, 11:40 PM
Ha! That quote reply actually just bumped me from Newbie status to Regular! I feel so accomplished. I think I might take the rest of the day off. :D

Glad you are not a newbie any longer. Now we can change your 2-3 beer job to a 12 packer and not be stoned for it. :D

tdjaster
05-07-2012, 12:42 PM
UPS man just arrived with my GFO packing, new set of spark plugs, and fuel filter from SKIDIM. I've grabbed 2 or 9 beers and I'm ready to spend the afternoon in the garage.

I'll keep you updated with my progress. Wish me luck!

Kyle
05-07-2012, 01:55 PM
Have a cold one for me..... I am stuck at work and even though I do stock the fridge here with GOOSE, I think i will pass today. :D

Good Luck

FrankSchwab
05-07-2012, 02:03 PM
Just make sure that you get all the old bits of packing out.

Don't tighten the packing nut until you get to the lake - tight packing is far worse than loose packing. Hand tighten the packing nut today, then back it off a half turn or so and bring the lock nut up. When you drop it in the water, inspect it and adjust it to a pretty good drip rate - once every couple of seconds. Start it up and run it up the lake for a few minutes, then adjust the drip rate to once every five to ten seconds or so. Go run around the lake, and check it every 30 minutes or so. Touch the packing nut and stuffing box to make sure they aren't getting hot, and adjust the drip rate as specified in your owners manual.

And have a good summer.

/frank

tdjaster
05-07-2012, 04:26 PM
Well, my projects are done, I just hope everything is right when I get to the lake this weekend. Work done today:

- new set of spark plugs
- two new fuel filters
- replaced packing

I did have to make two quick Home Depot/Advance Auto trips to get a pipe wrench to undo the last schmuck's tightening of the lock nut and I also picked up a suction pump and fresh fluid for when I change the tranny oil (later tonight).

I wreak of gasoline because, when changing the filters, I didn't think about hitting the shutoff valve on the gas tank until it was too late. That was a bit messy. Needless to say I will be rinsing out the bilge area of the boat before starting it.

Otherwise, it was a successful day. Now on to mowing the lawn.

AZX9
05-07-2012, 11:23 PM
What kind of seal would they have used on a 2003? I think mine is leaking a little too much. When I spin the prop it also makes a lot of noise and feels like it is rubber sliding on rubber. Turns easy but not smooth.

tdjaster
05-08-2012, 10:46 AM
What kind of seal would they have used on a 2003? I think mine is leaking a little too much. When I spin the prop it also makes a lot of noise and feels like it is rubber sliding on rubber. Turns easy but not smooth.

Call SKIDIM.com. I called and told them what boat I had and he knew what I needed.

bturner2
05-08-2012, 12:09 PM
My 03 X2 had a drip less set up but I had to replace the discs due to the PO adjusting it.

Lumbergh
05-08-2012, 12:20 PM
I find this link very helpful:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box

I like pictures.

Lumbergh
05-10-2012, 05:17 PM
Did mine today and used the gore-tex from skidim.

I tightened the stuffing box hand tight and then seated the small nut against it.

Hope its right, I buttoned everything back up. Have to check it at lake later for drip rate and heat.

1hr job tops (unless you have issues like not being able to get old flax out or overtightened nuts or whatever). A piece of PVC pipe cut and slipped around shaft makes the insertion of the flax/gore-tex fairly simple.

My boat was able to get 3 pieces in at 90deg offsets.

tdjaster
05-11-2012, 04:40 PM
A piece of PVC pipe cut and slipped around shaft makes the insertion of the flax/gore-tex fairly simple.

My boat was able to get 3 pieces in at 90deg offsets.

I improvised and used the screw and nut to pack each layer....

Put the first layer in, screw the nut down to pack it all the way, loosen back up, put in layer #2...lather, rinse, repeat.

Masterfull
05-11-2012, 11:32 PM
Both perfectly acceptable methods for installing packing. And great timming,, the weekend is here!!

AZX9
05-12-2012, 09:43 AM
Do you need to pull out that section of floor behind the engine to get to the shaft seal or check for leaks? If so how is bolted in?

Lumbergh
05-12-2012, 11:07 AM
I removed the engine box and the aft floor panel. That is 10 screws total and about 2 minutes of time. But my rear seat was already out so there is 30 seconds more.

The aft panel is 4 SS screws. Electric drill and out in no time.

I have seen a boat with a circular access panel behind engine on the aft panel (ala the bilge pump cover), but it would seem very tight quarters to work.

Just pull the panel IMHO.

Jeff d
05-12-2012, 12:56 PM
I did have to make two quick Home Depot/Advance Auto trips to get a pipe wrench to undo the last schmuck's tightening of the lock nut..

Having the lock nut pretty tight is a good thing IMHO considering the fact that your boat may sink if the packing nut comes off.

mikeg205
05-12-2012, 02:12 PM
Did mine today and used the gore-tex from skidim.

I tightened the stuffing box hand tight and then seated the small nut against it.

Hope its right, I buttoned everything back up. Have to check it at lake later for drip rate and heat.

1hr job tops (unless you have issues like not being able to get old flax out or overtightened nuts or whatever). A piece of PVC pipe cut and slipped around shaft makes the insertion of the flax/gore-tex fairly simple.

My boat was able to get 3 pieces in at 90deg offsets.

Used the gore as well - works great...very little drip as promised...and does not get hot....