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View Full Version : Crack Engine Cirular Water Pump using hose in driveway.


flya750
04-22-2012, 10:20 PM
A few years back I started using a direct hose hookup run my PS190 w/Lt1 out of the water. I use to use a fake-a-lake with no problems.

My direct hose hookup has a shut off valve. What I noticed when I started using the direct hose/water feed was I was putting a lot of pressure on the raw water pump and Thermostat T-housing. I could hear pressure build when I had water flow. So I was careful to start the motor before I let the water flow.

Well, some how I let too much water flow and I heard a POP today!!! It turns out - I cracked the Engine Circulating Water pump @ the base.

The engine runs fine, I just have a small crack on the pump that leaks a little. I probably could use JB Weld and fix it but I will most likely replace the pump. The part looks to be about $300+.
http://www.waterskis.com/12529560-p/circulating_water_pump_lt1.htm

I guess it's a good time to change the thermostats since they are original.

The moral of the story is using that direct hose hookup can cause problems if you don't micro manage the water flow. I'm surprised the cast iron water pump cracked? The pump could be weak from being 15 years old?

pram
04-24-2012, 12:39 PM
I bought one of these for mine and it is working great

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-CORVETTE-LT1-water-pump-5-7-/261001463720?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc4e647a8

flya750
04-24-2012, 01:13 PM
I bought one of these for mine and it is working great

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-CORVETTE-LT1-water-pump-5-7-/261001463720?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc4e647a8

Glad to hear you got an inexpensive solution.

The price of these pumps sure varies... The re-manufactured pump sure is less expensive. I've seen new pumps go for $415. ? The average for a new one runs about ~$200-230

Everything I've read so far is... going with a GM part would be fine. No need for an Indmar special marinized part.

I've found youtube videos on replacing the pump.. the process doesn't look to difficult.

I'm definitely switching to a reservoir system to run my boat out of the water. The direct hose hookup seemed to pressurize the system too much. Every time I turned on the water to run my boat you could hear the system pressurize and make funny noises. Now granted my engine water pump could have been fatigued and that is why it cracked.

flya750
04-24-2012, 01:18 PM
I bought one of these for mine and it is working great

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-CORVETTE-LT1-water-pump-5-7-/261001463720?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc4e647a8

What happened to your pump? Did it just one day show a leak? What year boat do you have?

mayo93prostar
04-24-2012, 01:27 PM
flya, I find it hard to believe that normal garden hose water pressure of 40 psi cracked the water pump. I suspect it had some metal fatigue or defect.

ahhudgins
04-24-2012, 01:30 PM
I can say with about 99.99% confidence that the water pressure from your hose did not cause the damage to your pump housingÖit would blow your garden hose apart if it could crack a cast iron housing. Most likely your housing already had a crack in it. Iíve been using the direct hookup for 30 years and Iíve left the engine off for short periods of time with no problems.

Some people will use the bucket method to run the engine on the trailer; others use the direct hook up. The fake-a-lake is the least preferred method.

flya750
04-24-2012, 01:49 PM
My garage hose source has some type of back flow valve that stops the water from flowing back into the house. I assume this is some sort of anti freeze device? Not sure.

Anyway, I have no doubt that my pump may have been weak ( I will know about its condition when I remove it later this week)... but one thing I know is when I would turn on the water flow I would hear all kinds of whistling and funky noises that didn't sound good. Weak pump or not.. there was NO leak until I went to power up the boat in the driveway to test all my new fuel line/pump rework. Normally, I try to start the motor before I turn on the water flow. This time since there was no gas in the lines it took a bit to get the motor started... in that time.. I heard a loud POP! I wasn't sure what it was @ first.. I finally got the motor started, no gas leaks... just the one small water leak @ the base of the water pump.

From my reading.. there seems to be a big debate about the water source for running the boat out of the water. For me.. the debate is over... I'm switching to a reservoir system. My only concern with the reservoir system is getting enough water in the reservoir to keep up with the water being picked up by the boat...

Jeff d
04-24-2012, 03:10 PM
I agree that it's pretty unlikely that your domestic water pressure, unless it's blowing fixtures off of your walls, could have caused that to fail. The noises were likely the water from the hose pushing past the vanes in the raw water pump and then displacing air in the block. Probably nothing to worry about.

pram
04-24-2012, 03:41 PM
What happened to your pump? Did it just one day show a leak? What year boat do you have?

It leaked when I bought (I knew this)

It is a 95 - 205

pram
04-24-2012, 03:51 PM
I am in agreement with everyone else on there that there is no way a 40psi hose is responsible for the damage you have. There has be other factors.


I assembled this and stick it in the hose downstream from the transmission cooler and turn on the water then get in the boat to start it

You can hear everything filling until I fire it up

flya750
04-24-2012, 05:27 PM
I am in agreement with everyone else on there that there is no way a 40psi hose is responsible for the damage you have. There has be other factors.


I assembled this and stick it in the hose downstream from the transmission cooler and turn on the water then get in the boat to start it

You can hear everything filling until I fire it up

That is exactly the type of device that I have except mine has a shut off valve.

I'm sure my pump was weak... It is 15 years old. I can't wait to inspect it when I remove it.

I think I am going to go with a brand new AC Delco replacement for about $200 bucks. The AC Delco comes already painted black so that will be nice.

I will take pictures of my old pump.

ahhudgins
04-24-2012, 06:34 PM
Mine gets a new impeller every spring whether it needs it or not. As soon as the impeller is replaced I put the garden hose into the inlet hose and secure it with a hose clamp. With my hose on full pressure I get no water past my impeller.

The only reason I prefer the direct method is because it's quick and I only run it a few minutes. The only problem I've ever had was when I didn't tighten the hose clamp down enough and when I shut the engine off the garden hose shot off like a bottle rocket.:D

pram
04-24-2012, 07:07 PM
That is exactly the type of device that I have except mine has a shut off valve.

I'm sure my pump was weak... It is 15 years old. I can't wait to inspect it when I remove it.

I think I am going to go with a brand new AC Delco replacement for about $200 bucks. The AC Delco comes already painted black so that will be nice.

I will take pictures of my old pump.

see if you can get one with the heater port on the other side (if you have a heater in your boat)

Mine came with one, but I'll be if I could get it out

ricford
04-24-2012, 07:10 PM
My 96 LT1's circulating pump has a hole in the bottom of it with a wax plug. As far as I understand it is designed to melt when the bearings in the pump wear out and heat up, causing a noticeable leak, so that you can fix it before it catastrophically fails. The pop you heard was possibly the wax plug blowing out, not the cast breaking. You'll see when you take it apart.

gatorguy
04-24-2012, 07:26 PM
I am in agreement with everyone else on there that there is no way a 40psi hose is responsible for the damage you have. There has be other factors.


I assembled this and stick it in the hose downstream from the transmission cooler and turn on the water then get in the boat to start it

You can hear everything filling until I fire it up

I was actually surprised when I scrolled down and saw the picture. For some reason I really expected to see a freaky clown hand that matches your avatar.

pram
04-24-2012, 08:02 PM
Lol

sorry only regular hands

flya750
04-24-2012, 09:27 PM
My 96 LT1's circulating pump has a hole in the bottom of it with a wax plug. As far as I understand it is designed to melt when the bearings in the pump wear out and heat up, causing a noticeable leak, so that you can fix it before it catastrophically fails. The pop you heard was possibly the wax plug blowing out, not the cast breaking. You'll see when you take it apart.

Oh I can see the crack alright... It's a pretty goo sized crack @ the right base.

I can see water drip out when I start the engine.

flya750
04-24-2012, 09:34 PM
see if you can get one with the heater port on the other side (if you have a heater in your boat)

Mine came with one, but I'll be if I could get it out

Pram,

Are you saying that you're having troubles getting your pump off?

I'm on making sure to buy the right pump. I do have a heater so I'm looking for that hookup. I will most likely be replacing the temp sensor as a preventive maintenance measure and the thermostats.

skijwr
04-26-2012, 12:38 AM
I tried the direct garden hose connection to the impeller housing. I did not like it. I also heard noises when turning on the water at the same time as cranking engine. You can hear the vanes in the impeller getting pushed. plus my garden hose could not keep up, engine tried to collapse the hose.

so I use the bucket method now, see photos below. I actually used a ice cooler, its a little larger than a 5 gal bucket. it works extremely well. just fill the bucket first, then crank engine, then observe level in bucket, if levels gets low, shut down your engine.
I learned this method from some other guys on this MC team talk forum.

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo215/skijwr/MC_X7/DSC05004_.jpg


http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo215/skijwr/MC_X7/DSC05005_.jpg

BARE5
04-26-2012, 01:14 AM
Where does the clear hose attach to? Seems like that is the way to go in your situation.

flya750
04-26-2012, 03:34 AM
Very Nice SKIJWR!

I was going to rig up a 18 gallon rubbermaid container...with the engine cover out of the boat there would be plenty of room to put a reservoir of some sort.

My house garage hose hookup is not normal for sure.. too much pressure...?? ..I didn't like what I heard when I did the direct hose hookup. Something was just not normal. Normal would be letting the water pickup system work the way it was designed. Connecting up a hose violates that design. Simply put a reservoir system makes the most sense. IMHO. I'm convinced I would have gotten a few more years out of my circular water pump if I didn't change to the direct hose hookup.

I'm okay with replacing the pump however, the boat is 15 yeas old. I would much rather have the failures happen in the driveway any day over happening out on the water.




I tried the direct garden hose connection to the impeller housing. I did not like it. I also heard noises when turning on the water at the same time as cranking engine. You can hear the vanes in the impeller getting pushed. plus my garden hose could not keep up, engine tried to collapse the hose.

so I use the bucket method now, see photos below. I actually used a ice cooler, its a little larger than a 5 gal bucket. it works extremely well. just fill the bucket first, then crank engine, then observe level in bucket, if levels gets low, shut down your engine.
I learned this method from some other guys on this MC team talk forum.

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo215/skijwr/MC_X7/DSC05004_.jpg


http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo215/skijwr/MC_X7/DSC05005_.jpg

mikeg205
04-26-2012, 08:38 AM
Mine gets a new impeller every spring whether it needs it or not. As soon as the impeller is replaced I put the garden hose into the inlet hose and secure it with a hose clamp. With my hose on full pressure I get no water past my impeller.

The only reason I prefer the direct method is because it's quick and I only run it a few minutes. The only problem I've ever had was when I didn't tighten the hose clamp down enough and when I shut the engine off the garden hose shot off like a bottle rocket.:D

I hate it when this happens... also worse when you're leaning over as the hose pops off and drenches you...:D

skijwr
04-27-2012, 12:18 AM
Where does the clear hose attach to? Seems like that is the way to go in your situation.

Bare5, the garden hose dumps into the bucket, then a separate clear hose sucks from the bucket to the impeller housing. hope that explains it.
plus all hoses are wire tied to a stick, and the stick clamped to bucket, so nothing can kick out of the bucket !!

CantRepeat
04-27-2012, 07:50 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHR9bbPbwmM

BARE5
04-27-2012, 12:33 PM
Thanks. Just wanna run it on the driveway the right way , if there is a right way.

pram
04-27-2012, 12:42 PM
Pram,

Are you saying that you're having troubles getting your pump off?

I'm on making sure to buy the right pump. I do have a heater so I'm looking for that hookup. I will most likely be replacing the temp sensor as a preventive maintenance measure and the thermostats.

No, the pump came off easy. I am unable to get the additional plug out of the front of the pump where I could attach my heater.

I changed both thermostats in mine when I had it apart

thatsmrmastercraft
04-27-2012, 12:54 PM
No, the pump came off easy. I am unable to get the additional plug out of the front of the pump where I could attach my heater.

I changed both thermostats in mine when I had it apart

Impact set low and gradually worked up?

pram
04-27-2012, 01:12 PM
Impact set low and gradually worked up?

I should have but I said fuggit, and bought all the brass fittings to do the T-method

thatsmrmastercraft
04-27-2012, 01:23 PM
I should have but I said fuggit, and bought all the brass fittings to do the T-method

That works too.

pram
04-27-2012, 01:42 PM
It just isn't a professional looking that's all

thatsmrmastercraft
04-27-2012, 01:59 PM
So break out the impact and do it right.:confused:

pram
04-27-2012, 02:08 PM
So break out the impact and do it right.:confused:

Nope, it's too late :rolleyes:. I have moved on from that project :D