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imjusthereforthefood
04-19-2012, 01:38 PM
Alright guys.. I messed up=/ I took my boat to a ramp at a buddies. The bayou was pretty high so I figured it would be ok. I left the front of the boat hooked up until I got it started. Well last summer somehow my buddy bent the metal arm that holds the nose of the boat(horrible design imo).. When the boat floated off the trailer the stress on the arm made the arm bend even more(see pic). So now I can't get the boat all the way up on the trailer like it should because the arm is bent. So do I replace it or is there a better option, perhaps a roller and winch system? Need to price those..

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/1796/img1004e.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/img1004e.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)


Next problem, impellar. For a second I heard the impellar strike something. I would assume the trailer(have no idea how) or the ramp itself(which I don't see how it could).. Whatever it was here's the aftermath:

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/3060/img1003i.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/135/img1003i.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)


I've looked at google for a second and saw prices from $300-$400.. Is that right? Is there any cheaper alternative or can you sand the rough spots out or is that even an option? Just looking for options on my next move from you guys:(


THanks TT

Lesson learned..

Rockman
04-19-2012, 01:53 PM
You mean PROpellar...;) IMpellar is used to suck lake water into the engine to cool it...

I would change up the hardware on the front of your trailer to current day boat-buddy type hardware. Would make this alot easier for you and prevent the boat from getting scrathed up.

Props are expensive overall but you can find a descent spare online...guys on the board here should be able to lead you in the right direction.:)

DooSPX
04-19-2012, 02:05 PM
You mean PROpellar...;) IMpellar is used to suck lake water into the engine to cool it...

I would change up the hardware on the front of your trailer to current day boat-buddy type hardware. Would make this alot easier for you and prevent the boat from getting scrathed up.

Props are expensive overall but you can find a descent spare online...guys on the board here should be able to lead you in the right direction.:)

Actually I think he means PROpellER :D

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
04-19-2012, 02:20 PM
Give eric @ oj props a call he should be able to fix that "impeller" right up for about $150 1-800-359-9730

ntidsl
04-19-2012, 02:21 PM
I'm seeing a situation like this. Bow hung up...rev engine hard to try to get off trailer. Bends arm bad...rear of boat sucked down...hits trailer. End of day.

Very good testimate to the strength of the fiberglass and also the backing plate of that bow eye. Look on the brighter side of things.

Slow down at the ramp and relax.

Prop won't be that expensive and doesnt look like you hit hard enough to bend the shaft.

imjusthereforthefood
04-19-2012, 02:39 PM
I'm seeing a situation like this. Bow hung up...rev engine hard to try to get off trailer. Bends arm bad...rear of boat sucked down...hits trailer. End of day.

Very good testimate to the strength of the fiberglass and also the backing plate of that bow eye. Look on the brighter side of things.

Slow down at the ramp and relax.

Prop won't be that expensive and doesnt look like you hit hard enough to bend the shaft.

Not sure where the slow down came from. Here's how the arm bending went down. I was out on my jet ski. Came to ramp 10 minutes after my buddy was bringing my boat in. I have no idea what he did to do that. Just clearing up that the arm was bent more by me because I didn't even think about the stress from the boat floating being able to bend the arm more. When the arm is straight it can hold the pressure of the boat, with a slight bend it was pretty easy to bend it back like so.


Also, excuse my spelling8p

CantRepeat
04-19-2012, 02:44 PM
If your prop is a 13x13 1inch keyway, I've got an OJ that was my back up for my 92 I'd make you a killer deal on.

johnlanguab
04-19-2012, 02:50 PM
+1 for Eric @ OJ. He repaired a prop for me at a great price.

Too, I think you could bend that metal thing back out on the front of the trailer. I'd unbolt it from the trailer and find something to pry it back in to shape.

imjusthereforthefood
04-19-2012, 03:05 PM
+1 for Eric @ OJ. He repaired a prop for me at a great price.

Too, I think you could bend that metal thing back out on the front of the trailer. I'd unbolt it from the trailer and find something to pry it back in to shape.

I thought about heating it up with a blow torch and using a sledge hammer. Depending how much a boat buddy is for my trailer, I might look into that. Any one bought one for a late 80s PS 190?

Also, can't repeat, I'm unsure which type it is. I'm assuming there's a visible model number I can find on it and go with that?

CantRepeat
04-19-2012, 03:10 PM
Yeah, they are stamp on the end of the prop.

Looks just like this one.

http://www.mastercraft.com/market/showproduct.php?product=3409

mzimme
04-19-2012, 03:26 PM
I also hate that little arm thing on my trailer. When my boat's at the storage spot by the lake, I doubt I'll even use it (1.5 mile drive to ramp). Ill just clip the winch on and call it a day. Our ramp isn't steep.

CantRepeat
04-19-2012, 03:34 PM
You might also consider getting rid of the bar upfront???

Brian did just that and it was well documented. If you, or a friend, have a welder and some skills it's an easy fix.

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=112627&postcount=17

Sadly, Brian is one of the MIA TTguys right now.

mzimme
04-19-2012, 03:44 PM
You might also consider getting rid of the bar upfront???

Brian did just that and it was well documented. If you, or a friend, have a welder and some skills it's an easy fix.

http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=112627&postcount=17

Sadly, Brian is one of the MIA TTguys right now.

That looks nice, but I was under the impression that the bar wasn't necessarily there to prevent the boat from coming forward in the even of hard braking, but rather it was there to secure the boat in the event of the winch strap breaking. If the strap were to break, the Clip to the bow eye would still exist, and the boat would be "stuck on the trailer" due to that bar still being attached by the clip (whether winch strap is still in tact or not).

Is that not what this is used for? I would think just using transom straps would eliminate the possibility of the boat coming forward in the event of heavy braking.

CantRepeat
04-19-2012, 03:46 PM
That post is about a conversion to go away from the bar to a boat buddy or a roller. You should always have a secondary means to secure the boat. IE boat buddy and strap, strap and boat buckle (on a roller system).

keith3613
04-19-2012, 03:56 PM
I might be interested in your prop. Call Keith at 972-998-1885.

CantRepeat
04-19-2012, 04:04 PM
I might be interested in your prop. Call Keith at 972-998-1885.

Yeah, I'm just trying to help out a down on his luck new MC owner!

SkiDog
04-19-2012, 04:12 PM
Personally I LIKED the arm on the trailer. I have a good reason, and I KNOW how strong it is. The day I bought my 88 Platinum Prostar, I was pulling it down the highway and a drunk pulled out in front of me. I never had a chance to hit the brakes before I hit him in the rear. His rear window ended up in the boat! I was traveling about 55 MPH. The boat NEVER moved during the impact. It bent the bumper that the trailer ball was attached to, but the boat never moved!

petermegan
04-19-2012, 07:33 PM
good story Skidog. Maiden voyage and all! I would agree that the strap would be the strongest, just not as practical as a boat buddy and winch. I like mine :)

d2jp
04-19-2012, 11:30 PM
Personally I LIKED the arm on the trailer. I have a good reason, and I KNOW how strong it is. The day I bought my 88 Platinum Prostar, I was pulling it down the highway and a drunk pulled out in front of me. I never had a chance to hit the brakes before I hit him in the rear. His rear window ended up in the boat! I was traveling about 55 MPH. The boat NEVER moved during the impact. It bent the bumper that the trailer ball was attached to, but the boat never moved!

Agreed. It can be a PITA at times, but you don't have to worry about the boat moving forward with it attached.

If you can take your boat off the trailer, heat the arm and pound the crap out of it - it might be usable again. Its pretty sturdy so I'm not sure its possible. OTOH - I bent my prop guard (long story), took it off the trailer to a trailer shop. They couldn't help me, suggested a sheet metal shop, they couldn't/wouldn't help either. On the way home I found a road crew taking a break (hard to believe, I know). I paid them $20 to use the stabilizer arm on their back hoe to 'press' my prop guard back straight:)

thatsmrmastercraft
04-19-2012, 11:41 PM
Agreed. It can be a PITA at times, but you don't have to worry about the boat moving forward with it attached.

If you can take your boat off the trailer, heat the arm and pound the crap out of it - it might be usable again. Its pretty sturdy so I'm not sure its possible. OTOH - I bent my prop guard (long story), took it off the trailer to a trailer shop. They couldn't help me, suggested a sheet metal shop, they couldn't/wouldn't help either. On the way home I found a road crew taking a break (hard to believe, I know). I paid them $20 to use the stabilizer arm on their back hoe to 'press' my prop guard back straight:)

Nice work on the prop guard.

bailey78
04-20-2012, 12:12 AM
If you want to keep the arm? I am a qualified welder for the US NAVY, and have some access to carbon steel, be more than happy to make you a new one if give me a drawing? If your interested PM me or call me 330-206-2667 ( craig)

imjusthereforthefood
04-20-2012, 09:21 AM
will let you guys now soon. heading out of town this weekend. will update monday accordingly. thanks for all the help!

imjusthereforthefood
04-24-2012, 10:30 AM
got a prop on the way, thanks cantrepeat!

also, should i plan on getting this prop fixed or scrap it?

Kyle
04-24-2012, 10:39 AM
got a prop on the way, thanks cantrepeat!

also, should i plan on getting this prop fixed or scrap it?

I'm sure OJ can repair it or your local prop shop that your dealer uses for $100. It is bent but not so bad that you now have a big paper weight.


I've chewed one up before and it was $100 and that was repitching it and adding cup to it. Save the old one for a back up incase history repeats itself.

CantRepeat
04-24-2012, 12:04 PM
got a prop on the way, thanks cantrepeat!

also, should i plan on getting this prop fixed or scrap it?

My pleasure, hope it gets you back on the water soon!

ski/hunt
04-24-2012, 12:12 PM
got a prop on the way, thanks cantrepeat!

also, should i plan on getting this prop fixed or scrap it?

Send it to Oj--he will tell you honestly if they can fix it and if they can you'll have one that looks brand new for very little $$ ---nice to have a spare....

imjusthereforthefood
04-25-2012, 09:32 AM
so my new prop doesn't come in until tomorrow. i'd really like to take it out this evening and just put around to see if a few things i've been working on have ironed out.

just wanting opinions if it would be a good idea or not with the prop in the current shape.

Kyle
04-25-2012, 11:03 AM
so my new prop doesn't come in until tomorrow. i'd really like to take it out this evening and just put around to see if a few things i've been working on have ironed out.

just wanting opinions if it would be a good idea or not with the prop in the current shape.

Taking the boat out to putt around with that bent up prop is a bad idea.


Think for a minute how much torque it takes to move a boat no matter how fast you are going.

Now with a busted up beater bomb prop on there think about how out of balance it is and the effect it will have on the strut berrings and the tail shaft berrings in the transmission. It's not like you are stranded and putting off the lake because you have to. Wait 1 day and then go play. There is no need to create more problems.

imjusthereforthefood
04-25-2012, 11:44 AM
Taking the boat out to putt around with that bent up prop is a bad idea.


Think for a minute how much torque it takes to move a boat no matter how fast you are going.

Now with a busted up beater bomb prop on there think about how out of balance it is and the effect it will have on the strut berrings and the tail shaft berrings in the transmission. It's not like you are stranded and putting off the lake because you have to. Wait 1 day and then go play. There is no need to create more problems.

ok, thanks for the reply. what can i check or do to make sure nothing else is further damaged(ie. shaft, etc)?

Kyle
04-25-2012, 03:09 PM
ok, thanks for the reply. what can i check or do to make sure nothing else is further damaged(ie. shaft, etc)?

Hey I know it's not what you want to hear but it's just not a good idea.

I would remove the old prop and look at the shaft through the strut. Spin the old prop by hand before removing it to see if the shaft is hard to rotate.

Look at the strut and inspect it for cracks or bends that don't belong there.

Look at Where the shaft goes through the bottom of the boat and see if the shaft is centered.

Remove the 4 bolts and separate the two couplers. If there is something out of wack when you separate the two the shaft coupler will flex back to its natural position. Basically the two couplers will not line up naturally and to hook the two back up you would have to flex the shaft to line up the couplers. If you separate the two couplers and they line up perfectly then I'm sure you are fine.

I would do all of these checks if it was my boat. The coupler test will tell you a lot.

thatsmrmastercraft
04-25-2012, 03:56 PM
Hey I know it's not what you want to hear but it's just not a good idea.

I would remove the old prop and look at the shaft through the strut. Spin the old prop by hand before removing it to see if the shaft is hard to rotate.

Look at the strut and inspect it for cracks or bends that don't belong there.

Look at Where the shaft goes through the bottom of the boat and see if the shaft is centered.

Remove the 4 bolts and separate the two couplers. If there is something out of wack when you separate the two the shaft coupler will flex back to its natural position. Basically the two couplers will not line up naturally and to hook the two back up you would have to flex the shaft to line up the couplers. If you separate the two couplers and they line up perfectly then I'm sure you are fine.

I would do all of these checks if it was my boat. The coupler test will tell you a lot.

This is as good as advice gets.

imjusthereforthefood
04-25-2012, 05:57 PM
thanks! will do that and let you guys know.

imjusthereforthefood
04-25-2012, 06:02 PM
by chance is there a picture floating around pointing out the strut and other various parts? this is my first boat and i'm a little confused on some of the parts missing.

sorry!

Kyle
04-26-2012, 12:01 AM
The prop is what has blades on it that are bent

The shaft is what the prop slides on to and it has a nut and a cotter key on the end of it to keep the nut from spinning off.

The strut is what the shaft slides through and is bolted to the bottom of the boat.

The shaft stuffing box is what seals the shaft where the shaft enters the hole in the bottom of the boat.

The coupler flanges are on the transmission and on the shaft. They mate together with 4 bolts and 4 lock nuts so that the transmission will turn the shaft. Separate the two.

The shaft flange has a nut inside of the flange that is accessible after separating the two flanges.

That is the total parts list

imjusthereforthefood
04-26-2012, 11:58 AM
The prop is what has blades on it that are bent

The shaft is what the prop slides on to and it has a nut and a cotter key on the end of it to keep the nut from spinning off.

The strut is what the shaft slides through and is bolted to the bottom of the boat.

The shaft stuffing box is what seals the shaft where the shaft enters the hole in the bottom of the boat.

The coupler flanges are on the transmission and on the shaft. They mate together with 4 bolts and 4 lock nuts so that the transmission will turn the shaft. Separate the two.

The shaft flange has a nut inside of the flange that is accessible after separating the two flanges.

That is the total parts list

thanks a lot! knew what the prop and shaft were, just the coupler flanges and other parts mentioned were throwing me off. prop comes in today. are there any normal tools to get the shaft off? i keep the boat at my pops place in his shop. he has a wide selection of tools(he works on 18 wheelers every weekend) so i imagine he has just about any tool you could think of.

just don't want to go buy a prop tool kit unless i have to.

any suggestions?

best regards.

Kyle
04-26-2012, 12:54 PM
I'm sure he will have tools that will work for the job.


Now the prop will need a prop puller or you can heat the old one up and smack it with a hammer and a punch where the hub of the prop and shaft meet. Make sure the nut is on the end of the shaft so the prop doesn't come flying off and his something or someone bc it's gunna be hot

CantRepeat
04-26-2012, 01:35 PM
Did you receive the prop yet?

As Kyle said, you can apply some heat to the old one and maybe put a 2x4 on it hit it with a hammer. I bought a cheapy puller.

imjusthereforthefood
04-26-2012, 01:45 PM
man, this sounds almost like it's going to be a headache for me. going to look for a video/tutorial online while at work.

imjusthereforthefood
04-26-2012, 01:49 PM
also, can't i think it delivers today. will check.

CantRepeat
04-26-2012, 01:56 PM
also, can't i think it delivers today. will check.

Sweet, just wanted you to get it before the weekend!

chriscraftmatt1976
04-26-2012, 02:11 PM
Heating and bending the bar will leave it weaker than before. Adding a boat buddy is a choice idea, but you'll be welding a bunch as there's nothing to mount it to currently. I bet a local welding shop would fabricate a new bar pretty cheap...

CantRepeat
04-26-2012, 02:45 PM
Heating and bending the bar will leave it weaker than before. Adding a boat buddy is a choice idea, but you'll be welding a bunch as there's nothing to mount it to currently. I bet a local welding shop would fabricate a new bar pretty cheap...

We are talking about heating the old prop, not the shaft. You are not going to hurt the shaft by heating the prop.

BrooksfamX2
04-26-2012, 03:07 PM
We are talking about heating the old prop, not the shaft. You are not going to hurt the shaft by heating the prop.

He may be talking about the bow bar, maybe???

pmkkdx
04-26-2012, 03:15 PM
I would think you could remove the arm from the trailer, then using heat (torch or 3984 matches :rolleyes:) and a vise, you could straighten it out back to as good as new.

imjusthereforthefood
04-26-2012, 03:37 PM
the bow bar is fixed. not the best work but it won't ever bend again.

will post pics this weekend of all my progress.

CantRepeat
04-26-2012, 03:59 PM
He may be talking about the bow bar, maybe???

Ah, you are probably right. ;)