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jessejames
04-19-2012, 12:53 PM
Hi all! This is my first thread. I'm a newb to the forum!

Anyway I am going to pick up my first Mastercraft this weekend. So I am also a newb to Mastercraft. I have driven and been around and in them, just never owned.

My question is what is a good trailer lock to use on the Mastercraft trailer. It is a 99 single axle with surge brakes in the tongue. I don't have good pictures of the tongue, but know it is not a normal size/shape. I want or need a lock ASAP because I had my enclosed trailer with my ATV stolen out of my yard this year and it had a coupler clamp lock on it that was broken off.

Does anyone know if this would work?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Trimax/431/UMAX100/10002/-1

Otherwise what do you use?
Thanks!!

CruisinGA
04-19-2012, 12:56 PM
Cable or u-bolt through wheels and frame/ leaf spring is probably going to do better than just a coupler lock.

As long as it can't be defeated with regular home-depot hand tools you are probably good.

Jeff d
04-19-2012, 12:59 PM
For a '99 trailer you probably have a UFP surge brake actuator. If so I don't think that lock would fit.

http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/assets/images/a60actuator.jpg

I have a '99 manufactured trailer and I use this lock:
http://www.harborfreight.com/ez-lock-trailer-lock-98518.html

Seems pretty robust and I think it was less than $30 in the actual Harbor Freight store. It's one of the few American made products in the store. The nice thing about it is that you can throw any padlock on it that you already carry a key for. I have one of the circle types as shown in the pic that can't be cut with normal bolt cutters.

Jeff d
04-19-2012, 01:01 PM
Cable or u-bolt through wheels and frame/ leaf spring is probably going to do better than just a coupler lock.

I've considered this but short of drilling the concrete I'd have to connect it to one of the columns in my carport. I could see a crook not noticing or caring about the cable and then pulling my house down on top of my boat. The lock I have at least looks pretty intimidating as it's made of a lot of metal with a pretty good padlock on it.

Some sort of "boot" type lock would be good too.

occva
04-19-2012, 01:05 PM
I've considered this but short of drilling the concrete I'd have to connect it to one of the columns in my carport. I could see a crook not noticing or caring about the cable and then pulling my house down on top of my boat. The lock I have at least looks pretty intimidating as it's made of a lot of metal with a pretty good padlock on it.

Some sort of "boot" type lock would be good too.


If you wrap that cable around the frame and through the wheel it is locked. If someone tries to take it just follow the skid mark.

jessejames
04-19-2012, 01:09 PM
Nice! I was actually just at my local Harbor freight last night and was looking at that one. I didn't know if it would be big enough though. And the paddle lock scared me a little.

Anyone use the wheel locks, like the boots? or the trimax claw one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TCL65-TRIMAX-Trailer-Auto-Security-Wheel-Chock-Lock-/260990554064?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%2 52BFICS%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D300691349916%26ps%3D54

I know you can still take the tire off, but you would have to have the right size to put back on and it would take some time espectially when combined with a coupler lock.

jessejames
04-19-2012, 01:13 PM
If you wrap that cable around the frame and through the wheel it is locked. If someone tries to take it just follow the skid mark.

Cables are pretty easy to cut through. All you need is an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and you are through in seconds. It might work fine as a deterrant, but I need something that will literally be impossible or take way too long to try.

Jeff d
04-19-2012, 01:40 PM
I know you can still take the tire off, but you would have to have the right size to put back on and it would take some time espectially when combined with a coupler lock.

I would consider adding a "locking" lug nut to that wheel although those things sure are a pain if you get a flat and don't have the special "key" socket.

thatsmrmastercraft
04-19-2012, 01:54 PM
I would vote against the locking lug nuts. You are guaranteed to loose the key sooner or later. Even if you are religious about it, it will happen. Just like launching without your plug in place.

bjames
04-19-2012, 05:05 PM
Anyone use the wheel locks, like the boots? or the trimax claw one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TCL65-TRIMAX-Trailer-Auto-Security-Wheel-Chock-Lock-/260990554064?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%2 52BFICS%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D300691349916%26ps%3D54

I know you can still take the tire off, but you would have to have the right size to put back on and it would take some time espectially when combined with a coupler lock.

I am thinking of trying to Boot type lock, in additon to my coupler lock. I figure having 2 locks is better assurance.

carlsonwa
04-19-2012, 05:40 PM
Hi all! This is my first thread. I'm a newb to the forum!

Anyway I am going to pick up my first Mastercraft this weekend. So I am also a newb to Mastercraft. I have driven and been around and in them, just never owned.

My question is what is a good trailer lock to use on the Mastercraft trailer. It is a 99 single axle with surge brakes in the tongue. I don't have good pictures of the tongue, but know it is not a normal size/shape. I want or need a lock ASAP because I had my enclosed trailer with my ATV stolen out of my yard this year and it had a coupler clamp lock on it that was broken off.

Does anyone know if this would work?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Trimax/431/UMAX100/10002/-1

Otherwise what do you use?
Thanks!!


Jesse, Welcome to Teamtalk !

Post up some photos when you pick that thing up this weekend, good luck.

Wayne

mwg
04-19-2012, 05:53 PM
With my '01 trailer w/ UFP surge brakes as shown in the 2nd post, I use this coupler lock.. it fits pretty well

http://www.masterlock.com/product_details/TowingSecurity_TrailerCouplerLocks_DiscLocking_No. 379TrailerCouplerLocks/379DAT


Congrats on the new boat!

Jeff d
04-19-2012, 05:58 PM
With my '01 trailer w/ UFP surge brakes as shown in the 2nd post, I use this coupler lock.. it fits pretty well

http://www.masterlock.com/product_details/TowingSecurity_TrailerCouplerLocks_DiscLocking_No. 379TrailerCouplerLocks/379DAT


Congrats on the new boat!

We have about 30 of those at work. They always looked flimsy to me. One day I was having to wait too long for somebody to bring me a key for one of the trailers and got tired of waiting. I kicked it off of the tongue in 3 kicks. The stamped sheet metal just deformed until it came off. I wouldn't recommend them for anything more than looking secure.

ttu
04-19-2012, 05:58 PM
With my '01 trailer w/ UFP surge brakes as shown in the 2nd post, I use this coupler lock.. it fits pretty well

http://www.masterlock.com/product_details/TowingSecurity_TrailerCouplerLocks_DiscLocking_No. 379TrailerCouplerLocks/379DAT


Congrats on the new boat!

i have the older version of that lock and it works great.

east tx skier
04-20-2012, 10:52 AM
I'd say it depends on the cable. We used to lock our old I/O up with something akin to a high end bike cable through the wheels. Forgot it once and drove away. Ripped that cable apart without much fuss.

I have used a coupler lock on my old MC trailer. It was not that style, but rather, an ordinary U in the locking pin. Doesn't work on my new trailer, for which I need one like what is posted above.

Buy that one and we'll swap. :)

jvbaca
04-20-2012, 11:33 AM
I have and continue to use DT Coupler (Diversi-Tech) locks on all of my trailers - dump, skidsteer, utility, enclosed and boat trailers without fail. Had a buddy want to use one of my trailers while I was out of town and told him if he could get the lock off he could use it. So being a rancher, he took a grinder, sledge and various other methods to the lock and it didn't give. So far so good, average price around $45.00. By the way my mastercraft trailer has the UFP style coupler as well and it works great on there.

77758

Patrick Hardy
04-20-2012, 02:18 PM
Hi all! This is my first thread. I'm a newb to the forum!

Anyway I am going to pick up my first Mastercraft this weekend. So I am also a newb to Mastercraft. I have driven and been around and in them, just never owned.

My question is what is a good trailer lock to use on the Mastercraft trailer. It is a 99 single axle with surge brakes in the tongue. I don't have good pictures of the tongue, but know it is not a normal size/shape. I want or need a lock ASAP because I had my enclosed trailer with my ATV stolen out of my yard this year and it had a coupler clamp lock on it that was broken off.

Does anyone know if this would work?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Trimax/431/UMAX100/10002/-1

Otherwise what do you use?
Thanks!!

That will work perfectly. I use a Reese Gorilla Guard Universal Coupler Ball Lock on mine anytime I travel long distances and have to park my boat and or trailer. I also use the Reese Towpower Trailer Keeper wheel lock. Both work great and I have never had any problems.

mikeg205
04-20-2012, 04:06 PM
If they really want to take it they will. The ball trailer lock works great as above...it's those opportunistic goofs that need to be thwarted. If some one comes with a flat bed truck the ball lock and wheel lock are useless. I worry more about vandalism when I travel.

jessejames
04-24-2012, 12:45 PM
So I bought the Harbor Freight one that Jeff suggested. I wasn't to impressed. It seems to have a lot of play in it and the only thing holding the top shaft back is the knob you move to flip up the coupler clamp. I can take pictures tonight. I think I'm going to return it.

I might order the one jvbaca recommended (DT). It looks pretty solid. jv- does it fit pretty tight?

The HF one I feel like one blow with a sledge and it will come off.

jvbaca
04-26-2012, 11:33 AM
It does fit fairly snug and we've tried prying them off with crowbars, grinders, sledge hammers, sawzalls and other methods to get them off and the only thing that worked, was the KEY!!! Lol..... When I first bought them I didn't think they fit tight enough but given what I've put them through they work and fit just fine.

I just ordered two more this week from Uhaul.com they have the cheapest price online for now.....

onewheat
04-26-2012, 11:59 AM
So I bought the Harbor Freight one that Jeff suggested. I wasn't to impressed. It seems to have a lot of play in it and the only thing holding the top shaft back is the knob you move to flip up the coupler clamp. I can take pictures tonight. I think I'm going to return it.

I might order the one jvbaca recommended (DT). It looks pretty solid. jv- does it fit pretty tight?

The HF one I feel like one blow with a sledge and it will come off.

It came from Harbor Freight - does that surprise you? I would never trust anything from HF to something critical. They don't just sell inexpensive tools - they sell cheap ones. If I am relying on a ball lock to keep my boat safe, it wouldn't be one from HF.

Jeff d
04-26-2012, 12:14 PM
It came from Harbor Freight - does that surprise you? I would never trust anything from HF to something critical. They don't just sell inexpensive tools - they sell cheap ones. If I am relying on a ball lock to keep my boat safe, it wouldn't be one from HF.

It's not your typical HF Chinese piece and actually a nice, high end lock that's made in the USA by these people:
http://www.blaylockind.com/ezlock.asp

It's the TL-33 about 1/2 way down the page. I've got 10 of them at work and one at home and it's probably 100x stronger than the MasterLock coupler lock that people listed above. I've kicked one of those off of a tongue in 3 kicks because they're just made of stamped sheet metal riveted together. After kicking that one off we no longer use that type.

Barefooter92
04-26-2012, 01:45 PM
It came from Harbor Freight - does that surprise you? I would never trust anything from HF to something critical. They don't just sell inexpensive tools - they sell cheap ones. If I am relying on a ball lock to keep my boat safe, it wouldn't be one from HF.

Same here! I bought it two days ago and not satisfied. Here is my fix...cut the fake ball off the thing and drill it out mount a real 2" ball on the plate and adjust it so the round stock fits tight and level. Right now a good hard tug and it is off. It looks tough from the road and will deter at first sight, but your right it will come off if forced.

jessejames
04-26-2012, 02:01 PM
Same here! I bought it two days ago and not satisfied. Here is my fix...cut the fake ball off the thing and drill it out mount a real 2" ball on the plate and adjust it so the round stock fits tight and level. Right now a good hard tug and it is off. It looks tough from the road and will deter at first sight, but your right it will come off if forced.

This is a heavy duty lock. I agree with Jeff. It is just not very adjustable and does not work well on the MC coupler. It may work fine on other trailers. I haven't tried it though. I don't think it is tight enough for my preference, so I am ordering ond of the Diversi Tech locks right now!

Lets get some input on wheel locks. Chains, chalks, or boots. What do you guys use? I plan on doubling up.

jessejames
04-26-2012, 03:19 PM
Does anyone use a lock where the coupler pin goes just for locking to your truck while trailering and at the landing so your trailer doesn't get stolen. What works? Just a small paddle lock?

thatsmrmastercraft
04-26-2012, 05:03 PM
Does anyone use a lock where the coupler pin goes just for locking to your truck while trailering and at the landing so your trailer doesn't get stolen. What works? Just a small paddle lock?

This lock made by Reese works.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product__22080342-P_N4058E_A%7CGRP2070____?cm_mmc=ET-_-Trans-_-Shipped-_-General#utm_source=et&utm_medium=trans&utm_campaign=shipped&utm_content=general

Jeff d
04-26-2012, 05:14 PM
This lock made by Reese works.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product__22080342-P_N4058E_A%7CGRP2070____?cm_mmc=ET-_-Trans-_-Shipped-_-General#utm_source=et&utm_medium=trans&utm_campaign=shipped&utm_content=general

Couldn't that get pushed against the hitch in a turn? I've used the type with a pin that goes all the way through the coupler and you attach the lock on the end.

Like this:
http://www.etrailer.com/merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/2/8/2847DAT_1000.jpg

thatsmrmastercraft
04-26-2012, 05:18 PM
Couldn't that get pushed against the hitch in a turn? I've used the type with a pin that goes all the way through the coupler and you attach the lock on the end.
Like this:


Never turned so tight it was a problem.

jessejames
04-26-2012, 07:07 PM
That Reese one I have and used on my Snowmobiler trailer. I stopped because it would always get locked up and I had trouble opening it and turning the key. A little PB blaster always solved it. It might be fine for summer use with no salt. I didn't think it would fit on this trailer, shaft might be too big. It is smaller than the picture, so I think you would have more problems if you were turning that tight that it hit.

The master pin type is just like the one that got busted off my snowmobile trailer that was stolen. They just pryied it or pounded with hammer. The collars on it where the lock grabs are weak points that will fail....again, that's if someone really wants it.

mikeg205
04-26-2012, 07:53 PM
Just put one of these in the boat... no worries... :D

thatsmrmastercraft
04-27-2012, 12:20 AM
Just put one of these in the boat... no worries... :D

That would work.:rolleyes:

jessejames
05-04-2012, 05:15 PM
I just got the DT lock in and tried it out. It fits way better than the Harbor Freight one. So that one is going back now! It seems pretty durrable. Round key is hard to pick or match. I'm happy with it. I also picked up a Master pin lock like the one Jeff posted. As stated before, I think these can be broken easily, but I bought it for just another added protection and because it came with a receiver pin lock. Since the keys are the same, it means less keys on my chain!

I tried to run a Master cable through the rim and it wont make it through with the brake drum there.......