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-V-
04-15-2012, 07:26 PM
Ok, so I am starting my own thread since I am having issues and I figure the amount of pics I take it should help someone in the future. So...........let's get started.

CantRepeat
04-15-2012, 07:32 PM
/cheers and thanks for putting it in the right place!!!

1st team!

-V-
04-15-2012, 07:42 PM
So I ordered new bearings from SkiDIM (great help, has beat everyone I have dealt with for parts) and I recieved them thursday and thought that it would be an easy job........well I was wrong.

I first tried to take out the shaft by just taking out all of the bolts and loosening up the packing nut to where it should slide out....nope.

After digging in further, I found that the key holes are no longer aligned. after looking at the boat in more detail, I found small hairline cracks and new strut goop around the seal.

-V-
04-15-2012, 07:45 PM
Last pic is the fabricated piece to try to break it free.

-V-
04-15-2012, 08:08 PM
So it would not come free so i figured I would have to get in there with a pully puller and thats where it started..........

I needed more room for the puller so I decieded that I needed to move the gas tank....so as you guessed it.....

-V-
04-15-2012, 08:10 PM
After all day working to try to free it then having to get ready to tear into it, I called it a day. I am hoping that I hear a pop in the middle of the night.......hopeing it lets loose.

-V-
04-15-2012, 08:13 PM
/cheers and thanks for putting it in the right place!!!

1st team!

As CSM Ciotola used to say,

"if you ain't Cav, You Ain't ____!"

good times. I was stationed at Hood from 2000-2005.

mikeg205
04-15-2012, 08:20 PM
Hey -V- which bearings are you changing...missed that from another thread? Did you spray it with some PB blaster?

-V-
04-15-2012, 08:25 PM
Hey -V- which bearings are you changing...missed that from another thread? Did you spray it with some PB blaster?

I am trying to pull the prop shaft to take out the "cutlass bearings" and change them out. from what I see, it should just slide out from the back after I take off the front part of it. I just came into all the otehr problems as I was trying to take it off.

mikeg205
04-15-2012, 08:32 PM
Thanks....sorry for your probs...I wonder what caused the shift in the connector plate.

mtajpa
04-16-2012, 01:57 AM
After all day working to try to free it then having to get ready to tear into it, I called it a day. I am hoping that I hear a pop in the middle of the night.......hopeing it lets loose.

Ditto on the PB blaster. Did you try smacking the prop shaft end? Some times that will help or tapping on the coupler while its under pressure. Also a last resort may be to heat it a little, just be careful of the fuel tank.

-V-
04-16-2012, 08:47 AM
Ditto on the PB blaster. Did you try smacking the prop shaft end? Some times that will help or tapping on the coupler while its under pressure. Also a last resort may be to heat it a little, just be careful of the fuel tank.

I tried "lightly" tapping it all sort of ways. I cannot get a straight hit on the shaft from the front so that is why i am pulling the tank. Bad thing is I recently used my fuel rewards from Giant eagle and Acme and filled the tank. (45 gallons only ran me $50) I was really looking foward to running her but now it seems that I will probebly not get her in the water until I get back to Texas, July/August timeframe.

mikeg205
04-16-2012, 09:42 AM
Get a pr0bar or something longer to rest on it to get a bit stronger whack at it. I bet there's galvanic corrosion holding that on tight.

-V-
04-16-2012, 10:38 AM
Get a pr0bar or something longer to rest on it to get a bit stronger whack at it. I bet there's galvanic corrosion holding that on tight.

what about punturing the gas tank?

erkoehler
04-16-2012, 11:01 AM
Need the right tool for the job. Slide hammer!

mikeg205
04-16-2012, 11:46 AM
Need the right tool for the job. Slide hammer!

+1 on that.

http://www.skidim.com/searchprods.asp

-V-
04-16-2012, 12:53 PM
tried something similar yesterday, rudder was in the way.

mikeg205
04-16-2012, 12:59 PM
Can you get at the rudder? Mine is easy to remove...just make sure you have someone helping to handle the rudder as it slips out.

I hate when something simple becomes a major PITA. I wanted to change the plugs, wires, PCV in my 2002 E-150 Van...but I can even see the plug wires or coils. probably take half the day taking a bunch of parts off - yuck...sorry for your pain.

Could solve your problem...

-V-
04-16-2012, 01:06 PM
so is there an attachment to screw it directly onto the shaft or do I have to use the hooks/claws?

thatsmrmastercraft
04-16-2012, 01:10 PM
Can you get at the rudder? Mine is easy to remove...just make sure you have someone helping to handle the rudder as it slips out.

I hate when something simple becomes a major PITA. I wanted to change the plugs, wires, PCV in my 2002 E-150 Van...but I can even see the plug wires or coils. probably take half the day taking a bunch of parts off - yuck...sorry for your pain.

Could solve your problem...

Changed the plugs on my 2002 F150 a month ago, and it wasn't as bad as I expected. Might be easier in the van as the engine on the truck sits part way under the cowl with a recessed firewall. Simple disconnect the electrical connector for the coil, one screw to remove the coil, then take out the plug.

mikeg205
04-16-2012, 01:33 PM
-V- PM Too_tall - he removed his engine and transmission...he may have insights...

-V-
04-16-2012, 01:38 PM
pm sent to him, thanks

mikeg205
04-16-2012, 01:43 PM
-V- - this guy removed his tank....sounds like he had the same problem...

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=40012

-V-
04-16-2012, 09:53 PM
here we go, So I went to advance auto parts and rented a slide hammer and attached it tonight. When using that thing, I would rather be filling sandbags or digging a .50 cal pit, slide hammers suck. bottom line is it still did not come off.

-V-
04-16-2012, 10:00 PM
So before i did this i called the plant in vonroe. he referred me to Jason at TSR (good guy). He tole me that it is COMMON for these couplings to "slip" and twist the key. he said you have three choices;

1-try a slide hammer (currently doing)
2-pull tank and pull out whole shaft from front side of tranny
3- use a saw-zaw and cut the shaftright before the coupler and buy new

I figure I am going to try this for a couple days, keep spraying it down with pblaster, and see what happens. The big choice is going to be either cut the shaft or pull everything out.

Cloaked
04-16-2012, 10:13 PM
I wish you the best with this effort. It's stinky when something doesn't cooperate.

That said, I have previously taken an adjustable wrench and placed it behind the prop (on a keyed shaft) and than used a BFH on the wrench, driving the prop beyond the key. Sounds primative but I have freed up a prop more than once like this with (so far) no damage to any prop other than a ding or two on the center piece. No big deal.

I love my direct drive setup... :D

.

TOO-TALL
04-16-2012, 10:25 PM
I know what your going threw...What a PITA.
It took me awhile to figure out how to remove my prop shaft.

I would try this set up.
Its a steering wheel puller i found it at napa.I ended up cutting the threaded part down and useing longer bolts.
Looks like your plate is flexing to much.
I'm amazed even with the side hammer its not moving.

Try the modified steering wheel puller maybe with the slide hammer it will work.
Good luck

-V-
04-16-2012, 10:43 PM
I wish you the best with this effort. It's stinky when something doesn't cooperate.

That said, I have previously taken an adjustable wrench and placed it behind the prop (on a keyed shaft) and than used a BFH on the wrench, driving the prop beyond the key. Sounds primative but I have freed up a prop more than once like this with (so far) no damage to any prop other than a ding or two on the center piece. No big deal.

I love my direct drive setup... :D

.

It's not the prop i am trying to get off, it's the prop shaft, but I will keep that in ming if I ever get real stuck. :D

-V-
04-16-2012, 10:44 PM
I know what your going threw...What a PITA.
It took me awhile to figure out how to remove my prop shaft.

I would try this set up.
Its a steering wheel puller i found it at napa.I ended up cutting the threaded part down and useing longer bolts.
Looks like your plate is flexing to much.
I'm amazed even with the side hammer its not moving.

Try the modified steering wheel puller maybe with the slide hammer it will work.
Good luck

Thanks, I will try to find something better than a piece of angle iron. I just figure that it would of held better.

Cloaked
04-16-2012, 10:47 PM
Thanks, I will try to find something better than a piece of angle iron. I just figure that it would of held better.I still wish you the best of luck.

That's a tough scenario...

.

mikeg205
04-16-2012, 10:56 PM
I believe taking the gas tank out may save time in the long run... shaft already moved toward the tank...maybe it will move more... and you would get more room to work....opinion only...put gas in car...

Is the prop still on? -- When trying to break shaft loose when on the coupling side...If its off sorry for asking... otherwise are you not pulling the shaft with you setup and the strut is holding the other end of shaft? If I am way off sorry for bringing up...

keep us posted... sorry -V-

BARE5
04-16-2012, 11:45 PM
2002f150 Supercrew is a pita to change plugs and coils. Garages charge over 500.00, for a 3 hour job

93Prostar190
04-17-2012, 12:07 AM
V ... I have a prop puller shaft puller slide hammer here in Columbus ..... I am headed to Cleveland tomorrow to see the Boss .... You are welcome to borrow it ....

erkoehler
04-17-2012, 12:08 AM
Proper slide hammer will thread directly on to shaft.


If that doesn't work, cut the shaft.

-V-
04-17-2012, 10:06 AM
V ... I have a prop puller shaft puller slide hammer here in Columbus ..... I am headed to Cleveland tomorrow to see the Boss .... You are welcome to borrow it ....

If you have what "should" work then i would greatly appreciate it. I work some kind of funny hours but let me know a time and i will try to get off.

93Prostar190
04-17-2012, 10:27 AM
PM Sent .... happy to bring my shaft puller up to Cleveland ....

mzimme
04-17-2012, 10:41 AM
PM Sent .... happy to bring my shaft puller up to Cleveland ....

There's a joke in here somewhere... :D

-V-
04-17-2012, 10:45 AM
PM Sent .... happy to bring my shaft puller up to Cleveland ....

voice mail left. and again thank you. if i do not have to pull the tank, i will be very happy.

-V-
04-17-2012, 10:47 AM
There's a joke in here somewhere... :D

haha:purplaugh:purplaugh

SkiDog
04-17-2012, 07:56 PM
what about punturing the gas tank?

Ya'll been dranking?

mikeg205
04-17-2012, 08:00 PM
Ya'll been dranking?

Dang thought we had a good update... :D

-V-
04-17-2012, 08:04 PM
no good news yet. thinking about trying to find a new shaft, then turn the old one into a christmas tree ornament.

mikeg205
04-17-2012, 08:05 PM
no good news yet. thinking about trying to find a new shaft, then turn the old one into a christmas tree ornament.

ugh... really think so? they are not cheap....

-V-
04-17-2012, 09:16 PM
I was told it probebly will be no good any more. Key spun so it sucks. I thought about taking off the strut, replace the bearings and just bolting everything back in place, but that will not solve the problem.

mikeg205
04-17-2012, 09:19 PM
damn...no good deed goes unpunished...sorry to hear...

-V-
04-18-2012, 12:06 AM
would it be that wrong to put it back together and take the shaft off to replace the bearings? how hard would it be? I think it would be chaeper, and since the shaft will not come out of the coupling, I figure that I don't have to worry about it ever coming out.

-V-
04-18-2012, 06:42 PM
no thoughts?

gatorguy
04-18-2012, 06:44 PM
Oh, it will come out, just not when you want it to.

mikeg205
04-18-2012, 06:48 PM
would it be that wrong to put it back together and take the shaft off to replace the bearings? how hard would it be? I think it would be chaeper, and since the shaft will not come out of the coupling, I figure that I don't have to worry about it ever coming out.

Do you mean pull the shaft strut? The concern is now what's is going on with the key. I personally - at that is me... would pull the gas tanks... remove prop and pull shaft out from the inside. Now I would worry the key would break and I would get stranded or worse - create more damage. I bet the shaft is ok but the coupler might be damaged... so a little more work - but DIY'er labor is cheap.. my .02.

-V-
04-19-2012, 09:50 PM
so I am going to replace the shaft and coupler. I was told today that even if I can get a press to get the coupler apart to replace the key, it will never be the same and it will be off balance. Now I am working with Charlotte Ski Boats to see if they will honor their advertised price on thier website.

TOO-TALL
04-19-2012, 10:58 PM
Wait..you have a key on the end where the tranny coupler is.mine is a splind shaft at both ends.

-V-
04-19-2012, 11:45 PM
key just like the prop on both sides. not sure what year it changed over.

TOO-TALL
04-20-2012, 12:13 AM
Ah gotcha...

Good luck with everything..

mikeg205
04-29-2012, 08:41 PM
Hey -V- how's the project coming along?

-V-
04-30-2012, 09:31 AM
Waiting for good weather, it has either been cold or rainy lately.

-V-
04-30-2012, 09:05 PM
So I recieved my box today and looking at the part, it seems a little different. The key slot for the key on the prop side is not slotted all the way down to the threads, it has an oval type of slot. Also it came with a regular nut instead of a castle nut. Did it change over at some point? Lastly, should the Prop Shaft kit come with a new key for the prop? Weather sucks today or I would be outside trying to cut out the old one.

-V-
05-05-2012, 10:29 AM
So last night I worked on the boat for a while. First I tried to cut the shaft with a cordless sawzaw. 3 batteries and 6 blades later I was barely half way through. I went to Lowes and picked up some Lennox Gold Titanium tipped blades came home and it went through the shaft like butter.Then I let everything cool and pulled the shaft out the back. Punched out the cutlass bearings and now everything is awaiting to be cleaned and put back together with new parts.

There was no key in the coupler and it looks like it was siezed in there for quite some time. It took us a minute to pound the coupler apart using a sledge and anvil. One question is I noticed in the bearing that it was more worn on one side, should I be worried or check for something?

mikeg205
05-05-2012, 10:33 PM
Worn on one side would indicate an alignment issue. Drag you had to cut the shaft. Good news is you will have it back together in no time...and playing soon. :D

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
05-05-2012, 11:02 PM
You can use that old shaft and make a shore spike...

TOO-TALL
05-05-2012, 11:31 PM
There was no key in the slot.....and the shaft was siezed? WOW!!!!
You would think the shaft would have spun in the coupler at one point in time.
Probably did and the two were fused togethor.
Sucks you had to got threw all this B.S.

-V-
05-06-2012, 12:39 PM
So yesterday, my father-in-law and I spent all day working on the boat. First thing we did was put the new cutlass bearings in and clean everything up. then we tried to figure out why the shaft was not aligned center in the hole that goes through the boat. Then we started to look at everything and noticed there were a bunch of stress cracks in the hull around the strut so we pulled the strut to see of we could move the strut a little to give us a little more room to the left so it would be aligned. when we pulled it off we noticed that it was bent. not much but just enough to misallign it. I guess someone hit something and bent the strut, shaft and spun the coupler. When we had the strut off (which came off very easy) we cleaned it up and noticed that it had been reinstaled improperly in the past. We also noticed that the through hull area had some sort of "burn" rub area that the shaft had rubbed.

So we were able to put the strut back on and align the shaft pretty close to center, then put it all the way back through. We got 4 rounds of GFO in the packing nut and aligned the engine. All I can say is holy cow.

I also went down to Sante Marine and picked up a new prop key since the old one was a little worn and scracthed up. So as of right now, everything is back together with the exeption of the side boards and we are shooting for a lake test once the weather gets a bit better.

CantRepeat
05-06-2012, 12:53 PM
Did you straighten the strut? That grooved area is from the prop shaft rubbing on it.

-V-
05-06-2012, 12:58 PM
Yeah, I straightened the strut as best I could but I was affraid to break it. (father-in-law knows everything and he said that it would snap.) As of right now it goes through the middle of the hole, a little offset but away from the area that was being rubbed. Can I put a hammer to it or would it snap?

Kyle
05-06-2012, 01:30 PM
Drinking before noon on Sunday. Gotta love it.


A few things. The area that the shaft was spinning on the boat will be a LOT quieter now.


To straighten the strut. Was heat applied or beating on it.





An idea here. Is there a way to secure it to your work bench with a vice or if it's a wooden work bench use some screws through the strut holes.


Next heat the strut with a torch or something. Use the old shaft to pry and manipulate the old strut.

Personally I would order a new strut. But if you are trying to save money and finish this project then there is a way I would try.

Kyle
05-06-2012, 01:38 PM
Never mind it is installed already. My way would not work now.


I would not beat on the strut with a hammer. Keep in mind it's attached to a fiberglass hull. Do not try to flex it too much. You don't want hull damage or any other problem.

CantRepeat
05-06-2012, 01:44 PM
One way a strut gets bent is from people beaching their boat. If the underwater gear is in the dirt/sand/mud and you get a whally driving by his wake will push on the boat and if there is side to side movement it can bend the strut.

I'd really recommend you send the strut to say OJ and have it straightened.

mikeg205
05-06-2012, 01:46 PM
Never mind it is installed already. My way would not work now.


I would not beat on the strut with a hammer. Keep in mind it's attached to a fiberglass hull. Do not try to flex it too much. You don't want hull damage or any other problem.

^^ ++ 1

-V-
05-06-2012, 11:46 PM
wait a minute, it can be straightened?

Kyle
05-07-2012, 12:23 AM
wait a minute, it can be straightened?

#1. If it is back together how does the prop and shaft turn. Is it easy to turn or hard.

#2. Does it vibrate driving

#3. If it is not right remove the strut and send it to OJ. I was not aware they could repair struts and I'm 100% sure that they would do a better job than any of us with a hammer or a torch. Tim know more about this than I do but it is very important to be aligned properly. The last thing you want is wearing your tranny berrings out.

CantRepeat
05-07-2012, 09:10 AM
I'm not a 100% sure it can be fixed, Eric at OJ Props would be the one to call and ask. They made most of the struts for MC.

-V-
05-07-2012, 12:39 PM
just pulled the strut back off. I am taking it down to Sante Marine. Local Shop, good rep.cost a little over $100

CantRepeat
05-07-2012, 01:28 PM
just pulled the strut back off. I am taking it down to Sante Marine. Local Shop, good rep.cost a little over $100


Good deal, that's cheaper then a new one.

Kyle
05-07-2012, 02:52 PM
just pulled the strut back off. I am taking it down to Sante Marine. Local Shop, good rep.cost a little over $100

Well worth having it looked at. That $100 will probably save you $1000 in the long run if you had not had it looked at or repaired.

-V-
05-07-2012, 04:37 PM
yeah, the way I am looking at it is I might as well get everything running true and then go from there. I just know I am going to have to move the engine around to get it aligned now. I really wish I knew if the PO hit something or not, and who did the wrench work so I know never to go there.

Kyle
05-07-2012, 04:40 PM
yeah, the way I am looking at it is I might as well get everything running true and then go from there. I just know I am going to have to move the engine around to get it aligned now. I really wish I knew if the PO hit something or not, and who did the wrench work so I know never to go there.

More than likely the damaged prop was either repaired or a new one was put on and nothing else was looked at.

-V-
05-10-2012, 08:56 PM
So I got the strut back today cost $120, which is less than half of a new one. Put the strut on and it lined up left to right very nicly but the up to down was off, more like rubbing on the bottom. So as I had everything in place I moved the engine up in the back (tranny side) to bring it off the pass through in the hull. as it stands right now, everything is running true and should feel alot better when I go out. I plan to take her out next week durring the week. Me and my father in law and a couple of tools to get everything straight. We still have to adjust the drip rate on the packing nut, and make sure there is nothing that is loose.

mikeg205
05-10-2012, 08:59 PM
woo hoo - good for you... you sound done...post pics or video now we need stx to get his boat all straightened out... :)

-V-
05-10-2012, 09:02 PM
woo hoo - good for you... you sound done...post pics or video now we need stx to get his boat all straightened out... :)

I hate the fact my boat is dirty and I do not plan to clean it until after the lake test. Once everything passes and I clean her up I will be more than happy to put up more pics. :D

mikeg205
05-10-2012, 09:08 PM
I will be near Cleveland in few weeks - do you get to go out during the week? maybe I could mooch a tow? :D :D

-V-
05-10-2012, 09:17 PM
If I am here, no problem. I leave in a couple of weeks for about a month. Then I come back here to grab my family and house stuff and move back to Texas.

mikeg205
05-10-2012, 09:31 PM
Oh that's right......oh well... when I travel to texas... :D

-V-
05-10-2012, 09:36 PM
if you come to texas we can go to Lake Austin!!!!!

-V-
05-15-2012, 05:18 PM
Lake test was done today.

Lake Erie, water was about 60 degrees, air temp was roughly 78 degrees, sun was out and water was calm.

holy cow, BIG difference. no vibration what-so-ever. The only trouble I had was adjusting the packing nut drip. we wanted to do the whole 1 drip per 3-5 minutes but that packing nut got really hot. we went ahead and made it to 1 drip every 30-45 seconds. After a couple more times taking her out I will adjust accordingly. One thing I did notice was a small wobble in the shaft where it went out of the boat through the hull, is that normal? not big wobble but I noticed it.

I do want to thank CLTMC at Charlotte Ski Boats for the prop shaft. He stuck by the advertised price and I was able to get it in. Again, Thank you Lee and I look foward to doing more buisness with you.

So as of right now, the boat is ready for the lake but I doubt I will be able to take her camping before I get shipped out.

CantRepeat
05-15-2012, 05:52 PM
Yeah, it's pretty amazing what a straight strut and shaft will do for the boat combined with a good alignment.

The shaft should turn pretty true. What you can try is loosening up the log pack hose where it attaches to the boat and rotate that around. You just might be seeing a what looks like a wobble when in fact it is just moving the packing nut around because the hose is not true.

LaRue
05-15-2012, 07:22 PM
I thought the drip rate was supposed to be approx. one drip per 5 seconds not minutes......?

mikeg205
05-15-2012, 11:37 PM
Yeah!!! -V- good to read your on the water...

-V-
05-16-2012, 05:15 PM
I thought the drip rate was supposed to be approx. one drip per 5 seconds not minutes......?

wait, what?

ummmm...........anyone else want to chime in here?
maybe thats why the packing nut was hot.

CantRepeat
05-16-2012, 05:59 PM
wait, what?

ummmm...........anyone else want to chime in here?
maybe thats why the packing nut was hot.

Yeah with the old wax rope or gortex rope the drip rate should be fairly constant. I would even go as far to time it in a minute, 20 to 25 drips a minute will keep everything cool and lubed up.

-V-
05-16-2012, 06:42 PM
Yeah with the old wax rope or gortex rope the drip rate should be fairly constant. I would even go as far to time it in a minute, 20 to 25 drips a minute will keep everything cool and lubed up.

should I measure that with the prop turning or with everything off. We went out in lake erie and put it in gear just to adjust it like that.

LaRue
05-16-2012, 07:59 PM
Researched drip rate today. One drip every 5-10 seconds or so. Consensus is error on the side more than less. I have ours at about 2 drips/ 10 seconds. Measure with motor engaged. Search drip rate on TT for more info

-V-
05-16-2012, 08:11 PM
Researched drip rate today. One drip every 5-10 seconds or so. Consensus is error on the side more than less. I have ours at about 2 drips/ 10 seconds. Measure with motor engaged. Search drip rate on TT for more info

Thanks LaRue. I will definatly have to do a little more reading. I am of course, learning the hardway, do it again, over and over.