View Full Version : Fuel Pump?

04-15-2012, 04:59 PM
Was cruising along today, when the engine died. Went to crank it again and it would turn over but not fire.

I got towed into the gas station on the lake by the cop, put $20 of gas in. Turned over and started up. Shut off the boat, and put $80 more into it. Went to start the boat, and it would only turn over. Let it sit for a while, and could never hear the fuel pump make the loud priming noise that it use to.

What else can i check before i bite the bullet on the fuel pump. I checked the lanyard, the fuses under the driver panels. Any other fuses to check?


04-15-2012, 05:15 PM
you can check the pressure on the fuel rail and it will let you know the performance of the pump

04-15-2012, 05:20 PM
Check the connector at the pump. have someone cycle the key from off to on while you wiggle the connector see if it primes.

04-15-2012, 07:04 PM
Do the 2 tests above, but if you don't hear the pump cycle on with the key it may be just a bad connection at the top of the pump.

Ever change the fuel filter in the tank?
How old is the fuel pump? Is it original?

I"ve also heard sometimes a pump that gets hot will not produce enough pressure, but after it cools down it will work again. Sign of a pump on it's way out I assume.

Don't let your tank get to 1/4 tank or less.....I try to keep mine at 1/2 tank or more so the pump stays cool.

04-15-2012, 07:13 PM
Too Tall changed his fuel pump...just the pump part...PM him I am sure he would be happy to help....

04-16-2012, 02:59 AM
I had a similar problem, and it turned out to be the fuel pump solinoid. Easy to change. Found a replacement at NAPA for less than $20. No trouble since.

04-16-2012, 07:54 AM
Besides wiggling, can i hook up multimeter to the connector? If so am i just looking for voltage, or should i get an ohm reading?

04-16-2012, 08:50 AM
where is the fuel pump relay? Im assuming its one of the 3 relays next to the ecm on the MCX engine?

How can i test the relay?

04-16-2012, 09:56 AM
Besides wiggling, can i hook up multimeter to the connector? If so am i just looking for voltage, or should i get an ohm reading?

You should be able to....I think it's just a 2-wire connector for the pump, one hot and one ground.

04-16-2012, 11:10 AM
there are 3 wires on the connector to the pump

04-16-2012, 11:16 AM
One may be a ground connection that goes to the filler neck. It would be a green wire I think.

04-16-2012, 02:42 PM
I believe all 3 relays are the same part. I just tried one of the other ones in the fuel pump position. Facing my LQ9 engine, the fuel pump relay was on the left.

04-16-2012, 03:39 PM
going to give that a try

04-17-2012, 06:49 PM
Relays click, voltage on 1 click over reads 12v for several seconds and then goes to 0 (seems like should do that since it's priming) Of course the pump makes no noise.

If i wanted to tackle the fuel pump replacement (just the pump not the whole module) Is this the pump i should get? I read like 30 threads and i think this is it:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-5yc1s;jsessionid=88B5BFF514D105A488AA10B766EFF0F1. diyprod1-b2c1?itemIdentifier=386055

04-17-2012, 07:18 PM
Yup that one will do nicely. You could also go with the E2065 pretty much the same specs. I used that one three years ago on my LQ9, and it has been perfect.
But before you do, what year is your boat? It doesn't really seem to be a problem as much on the newer boats.
Have a look at this post:

04-17-2012, 07:20 PM
2006 X1 with mcx engine

Jeff d
04-17-2012, 07:28 PM
If you're not in a huge rush rockauto.com has the E2065 on sale for like $37 shipped. At that price I'm wondering if I should buy one just to have on hand.

Jeff d
04-17-2012, 07:31 PM
Oh and I think that the e2044 and the e2065 are the same pumps but just with different o rings and mounting clips included for some other specific applications. I don't think you'll use those parts anyway so the part numbers are effectively interchangeable.

04-17-2012, 07:44 PM
thanks just ordered it. hopefully it will save me some $$$

04-17-2012, 08:36 PM
I think that 06's were still affected by the issue.
Good luck with the swap out Let us know if you need any help with the install.
You commute with your boat if I remember right?

04-17-2012, 11:31 PM
Just make sure you have 12V at the connection going to the pump before you replace the pump. I connected a light to the plug just before the pump. Turn the key, if the light comes on for a few secs and then goes out, continue with your plans for pump replace. If no light, it could still be the solinoid, or another connection.

04-18-2012, 10:33 AM
yup got 12v reading for a couple seconds then it went off when i had the key clicked over =)

04-24-2012, 08:25 AM
Got the replacement pump / motor from rock auto. Installed really easy.

How do you remove the fuel filter on the bottom? I got a new one from the dealer and would like replace my dirty one.

04-24-2012, 08:41 AM
pry it of carefully with stiff putty knife

04-24-2012, 09:23 AM
ok wasnt sure if i was suppose to be putting pressure on it lol

04-24-2012, 05:57 PM
boo... put the fuel pump in and still got no noise from the unit.

I guess it's a time for a trip to the dealer. This sucks. Im guessing it's something to do with the harness on the fuel pump as im still getting a pulse 12v reading on the harness

04-24-2012, 07:01 PM
so i put 12v on the old pump and it made noise like it was sucking ... so the motor is fine.... argh!

Jeff d
04-24-2012, 07:17 PM
Then your problem is between the connector and the pump, right? Check continuity on those wires. Be careful about energizing stuff around an open fuel tank though. I'd remove the pump again and use an ohm meter.

04-25-2012, 08:41 AM
gonna do that when i get back from nyc. If it is the connector, can these be purchased separately? Or somehow replaced, I would hate to pay $500 for a fuel pump when all i need is the connector?

04-25-2012, 08:51 AM
don't forget to leave pics on what you fixed.. sorry about your problem...

04-25-2012, 04:00 PM
does anyone know if i would be able to change the harness on the pump itself?

04-25-2012, 05:20 PM
What's the proper way to check continuity... I was gonna pull the pump out again see if the issue is actually the plug

04-25-2012, 07:42 PM
What's the proper way to check continuity... I was gonna pull the pump out again see if the issue is actually the plug

Use an ohm meter function. Touch the meter leads together your meter should read 0.0 ohms. Then connect the leads to the fuel pump side of the connector. you should read a ohm value other than 0.0 or 9999.

When you checked for voltage at the connector did you put a volt meter across both of the wires? On the boat side of the harness? The female pins in the boat side harness can spread apart enough to make a bad connection. Especially if you left the bolt that is in the way of sliding the connector on. Or if you inserted the probs on the meter into the harness.

In the picture do you see where the bolt is in the way of sliding the connector on. If yours is the same way you may have spread the female pins open causing a bad connection.

If you have 12v at the boat side connector measured from the gray to the black and have continuity it may just need to have the female pins tweeked back together.

When I changed my pump out I had the very same thing I am describing happen. Remove the bolt that is in the way. Adjust the female connector by squeezing the female pins a little , then plug the harness into the pump and install the bolt back into the pump.

Hope this helps a little.

04-25-2012, 08:28 PM
Well i have no clue what happened.

Cranked the boat today, still can't hear the priming noise, and she fired up. I was baffled. I decided to disconnect the fuel line and see if the pump sprayed gas. Sure enough turning the keyover a stream of gas came out. The lake is only 2mins away, so we put the boat in, she fired up and we drove around and idled for about 30mins.

so what the he||? lol

1) Old pump in a bucket of water still works.
2) New pump makes 0 noise, nothing when key is clicked over 1, and nothing while running, yet it must clearly be running?

Im lost, but ill take it...

04-25-2012, 08:33 PM
While you are out on the lake have a buddy drive while you do the wiggle test and also feel the wiring connectors at the pump and then the next one up that connects to the main harness after a bit if the connectors feel hot you have a bad connection.
Good luck hunting!

04-25-2012, 09:55 PM
My new pump make zero noise as well. forgot what brand it is but work just fine