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View Full Version : Help w/04 trailer, keeps locking up w/o boat?


georgea0731
08-29-2004, 08:41 PM
Anyone, know why my single axle trailer keeps locking up when I try to stop when the boat isn't on the trailer?

What do I need to do to fix this problem?

I check the brake fluid, it's about 2/3 to 3/4 per manual. The lights are connected and seem to all work, but not on during the day.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Please email us at amonette516@comcast.net

Thanks

georgea0731
08-29-2004, 08:46 PM
I talked to Mark, Tech Support at the factory. He said thay have a small o ring like item, orfaset (sp) that can be put in the line to help reduce the pressure. He said to contact your dealer and ask them to order part number, 650680. He said putting it in the line was easy, but you would have to bleed the brakes afterwards.

I recommended he come online and publish this official Mastercraft solution, but I don't think he thought it was a good idea.

Good luck,
I hope your dealers know about this too.

Mag_Red
08-29-2004, 09:14 PM
George, my trailer did the same thing. If you have the flat trailer light connector, the fix is somewhat easy, but still a pain in the butt. You need to find which prong, on the tow vehicle connector, controls the running lights. Easy way to do this is turn your running lights (ie parking lights), take a testor light and probe the connector until it lights. Now what you need to do is plug the prong from the trailer harness that controls the back up lights( it's on the end and has three blue wires going to it) into the vehicle connector where the running lights operate.

What this does is fool the trailer into thinking you are backing up( as long as your parking lights are on) and it closes the selonoid that allows the trailer brakes to operate. I know this is a pain in the butt, but it works! You just have to remember to reconnect the harness the correct way after you load your boat.

JimN
08-29-2004, 11:45 PM
You're better off in the long run to just connect the 5 wire harness the right way. There are aftermarket harnesses available that plug into the vehicle harness so you don't need to splice anything. You need the backup light wire to be connected so the bypass valve can actuate and keep the brakes from engaging in reverse. Your dealer should have told you all about this. Also, the trailer comes from MC with a harness that can be attached to the vehicle, usually tied to the tongue jack.

Mag_Red
08-30-2004, 10:34 AM
You're better off in the long run to just connect the 5 wire harness the right way. There are aftermarket harnesses available that plug into the vehicle harness so you don't need to splice anything. You need the backup light wire to be connected so the bypass valve can actuate and keep the brakes from engaging in reverse. Your dealer should have told you all about this. Also, the trailer comes from MC with a harness that can be attached to the vehicle, usually tied to the tongue jack.Jim he was asking for a way to stop the brakes from locking up when the trailer is empty! Doing what you suggest does nothing to help him. The ramp I have to go down at Lake Cumberland when loading my boat is a steep 45 degree grade. When the trailer is empty it still suges forward on the ball and activates the disc brakes. It is scary...damned scary :eek: how the trailer bucks on the way down the hill! Not to mention the embarressment from every one looking at you like you don't know what you are doing. Mastercraft should step to the plate and solve this problem.........but in the mean time, my advise is the only solution. You have to make the trailer think you are backing up so it closes the solenoid. I did say that the wires should be reconnected properly after you load the boat.

MYMC
08-30-2004, 12:00 PM
This is not an issue that is fixable (with the current set-up). The trailer brakes are designed to assist in stopping a boat & trailer that weighs in excess of 3500lbs. If you remove 2620lbs from that equation ('04 PS 190 dry weight) then you have the breaking power of the above applied to an 880lbs trailer. You have lost the extra traction provided by the increased weight...weight is the single greatest factor for generating traction.

The new couplers apply more braking force than the old ones...they also bring the vehicle to stop in a shorter distance, so they are safer. The trailer was not designed to be used on roadways and interstates in an "unloaded" condition. For moving short distances the only way is to activate the reverse solenoid (explained elsewhere in this thread)...however, please make sure that all components are correctly installed/coupled before you load the boat and head out on the road.

blacter
08-30-2004, 12:01 PM
Check out this thread on mymastercraft.com:

http://www.mymastercraft.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=65

captkidd
08-30-2004, 02:47 PM
From all this I'm guessing that the newer trailers do not have the little pin that can be inserted to prevent the actuator from sliding back and engaging the brakes?

MYMC
08-30-2004, 03:05 PM
The actuators have a latch that can be lifted into place when reversing (locking the slide mechanism); however, it resets itself when you begin moving forward.

Mag_Red
08-30-2004, 03:25 PM
The actuators have a latch that can be lifted into place when reversing (locking the slide mechanism); however, it resets itself when you begin moving forward.So, other than my fix, the only other solution is to only drive in reverse when the trailer is empty??? :purplaugh

Stritt
08-31-2004, 09:16 AM
03's have the same problem. The old actuactors (sp?) did not seem to be as sensitive as the new ones. Like mentioned earlier, you can reverse the plug and activate the reverse lights and lockout. Not great for night driving though. Going down big hills + no boat weight = Bucking Bull. A tandem trailer is even worse. Looks like the kids with cars that have the ability to "bounce" their cars.

As to trailers not designed to be driven empty.............Nice try. :rolleyes:

NeilM
08-31-2004, 02:20 PM
This isn't a MasterCraft Trailer problem. It's a problem with all surge brake trailers, made worse by disk brakes.

I just duct tape a manual lockout into place so the brakes won't come on when the trailer is empty.

captkidd
08-31-2004, 02:39 PM
If all else fails (IAEF):

Since the backup solenoid is electrically activated, why not just install a switch that sends electrical current to the solenoid to close it when trailering without a boat? This could be as simple to install as a set of fog/driving lights. The same wire that provides the current from the backup lights to the trailer could be used. A rocker switch could be installed in the vehicle to "activate" the system, but some sort of "relay" would be required to prevent the current from flowing back to the backup lights (sorry, I'm electronically challenged so I'm not sure what type of device would be required to do this). The cost should be less than $20 and the only downside would be not having any trailer brakes when the system was activated, but this shouldn't be a problem because the trailers for many smaller boats don't even have brakes.

JimN
08-31-2004, 03:03 PM
You could use a relay and switch, but you have to remember to turn it off, so a lighted switch is good here. The relay has a terminal for normally closed, which would let the reverse lights work as they normally do. Latch the relay and it doesn't matter if you go into reverse, there won't be a short since normally closed terminal goes nowhere at that point.

Mag_Red
08-31-2004, 07:27 PM
You could use a relay and switch, but you have to remember to turn it off, so a lighted switch is good here. The relay has a terminal for normally closed, which would let the reverse lights work as they normally do. Latch the relay and it doesn't matter if you go into reverse, there won't be a short since normally closed terminal goes nowhere at that point.Actually that is what I did! Only I disconnected the regular backup lead to the harness. The only inconvenience is I have to remember to hit the switch when I am backing up. But on the way to the ramp , with an empty trailer, hit the switch, and no more embarressing trailer bouncing. :uglyhamme

JerryW
09-01-2004, 09:38 PM
There is another fix. I had the same problem with a 2002 double axle trailer. Partly due to warped rotors, but also due to the brakes being too "strong" for an unloaded trailer. You can buy adjustable, in-line brake proportioning valves, and install it. They are often used on hot rods, customs, race cars, etc, especially when new brake systems are installed on an older vehicle, or a mix of disks and drums used on a vehicle. There is an adjusting knob tht you can use to control the braking force.

There are also non adjustable "valves" that limit or slow down the flow of fluid out of the master cylinder. With an empty trailer this causes the brakes to come on slower and not grab as much. With the boat on the trailer, there is enough weight pushing against the master cylinder that the brakes come on quick enough and strong enough.

KevinZinser
09-03-2004, 12:27 PM
After my trailer bounced like crazy, and I backed my trailer down a ramp starting 700 yards away because I couldn't pull it down the hill forward, I came up with a legitimate fix.

Take your old 4-prong wire harness and saw through the black plastic portion, cutting off one male and one female wire piece. Take one wire and connect it to the tow vehicle power, and take the other wire and splice it (easliy done with the blue wire splicing clamps) to the brake actuator/master cylinder line. There are three blue wires going to the trailer wiring harness...swing away the tounge and trace the one blue wire from the master cylinder to the end of the wiring harness.

When you tow the trailer without the boat, plug this new 6th wire in, and turn on your lights. This will send power to the master cylinder and lock out the brakes, while allowing all other lights to work properly (unlike the "T" solution). You will know if it is wired correctly if when you plug the 6th wire in, you hear a faint "click" which is the master cylinder disengaging.

The only problem I have found is that when you plug the 6th wire in, you are sending power to the brakelights as well. The brakes won't engage, but the lights are on. If this bothers you, place a simple waterproof switch in line with the brakelight wires and turn them off when your 6th wire is plugged in.

More to the point though...I have seen many questions/complaints about this. How about a real fix to this problem, instead of this jerry-rigging?

georgea0731
09-06-2004, 07:58 PM
I talked to Mark, Tech Support at the factory. He said thay have a small o ring like item, orfaset (sp) that can be put in the line to help reduce the pressure. He said to contact your dealer and ask them to order part number, 650680. He said putting it in the line was easy, but you would have to bleed the brakes afterwards.

I recommended he come online and publish this official Mastercraft solution, but I don't think he thought it was a good idea.

Good luck,
I hope your dealers know about this too.

mckay4
09-07-2004, 08:16 PM
I fought the same problem on my 2002 X-9 trailer. Dealer installed a new master cylinder with no improvement. I finally ended up pulling the unit out of the tongue and adding a 1/2" ID X .125" thick stainless flat washer to the end of the spring that the cable clip is on which added some additional preload to the tongue. This makes it a little harder to assemble, but worked great for me. It completely eliminated the bouncing when stopping empty and did not affect the stopping ability with the boat loaded. Let me know if you need more detailed instructions.

rwoznock
04-18-2010, 08:27 AM
Sorry for the threadjack but I have a 1996 dual axle trailer that doesn't have a reversing selinoid. (and it is such a pain to use that spacer that keeps falling out) Does anyone know if one can be added to my trailer or do I need to replace the coupler?

TMCNo1
04-18-2010, 09:39 AM
Sorry for the threadjack but I have a 1996 dual axle trailer that doesn't have a reversing selinoid. (and it is such a pain to use that spacer that keeps falling out) Does anyone know if one can be added to my trailer or do I need to replace the coupler?

You can get one here, http://www.ufpnet.com/ContactUs/tabid/60/Default.aspx, just contact them and order one or they can tell you where you may find one at one of their local dealers in your area and /or even online.

And available here, http://www.championtrailers.com/DISC...ON_ARTICLE.HTM (http://www.championtrailers.com/DISC_BRAKE_INSTALLATION_ARTICLE.HTM), see the pdf catalogue and price sheet and instruction

rwoznock
04-18-2010, 09:55 AM
thanks TMCNo1!