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View Full Version : 1987 PS 190 gets a freshening up.


catamount
04-02-2012, 12:30 PM
Hey everyone, I'm pretty new here. Always skied behind small I/Os until a few years ago when I had the opportunity to ski behind a MC and from that point on, I've been in the market. However, my budget has always been pretty low. In February of this year I finally found a nice, clean Mastercraft in my price range.

1987 Mastercraft ProStar 190 on date of purchase. The engine has 654 hours.

http://i.imgur.com/ZzmlPh.jpg

Towing it home, across the lake on a ferry. If we had hit an iceberg, it would've been my personal lifeboat.

http://i.imgur.com/P7gaFh.jpg

The vinyl is in incredible shape but some other interior parts were looking a bit worn.

The ski pylon and hand rails were looking a bit tired. I removed these and dropped them off at the powder coater. They are being coated with "Reflective Chrome" which ends up looking more like a dull polished aluminum.

http://i.imgur.com/VHkN5.jpg

One thing I wanted to do before summer was give it a tuneup and replace the leaky valve cover gaskets. Also want to upgrade to electronic ignition eventually.

This is the engine before.

http://i.imgur.com/7K8Fvh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/h0iIHh.jpg

Threw the manifolds in the sandblaster and then hit them with some high temp paint.

http://i.imgur.com/rmYfLh.jpg

Once they dried, I hit the raised lettering with some high temp white.

http://i.imgur.com/Yk92Ph.jpg

I did the same for the risers.

http://i.imgur.com/yeB4Uh.jpg

Now, I start accumulating parts.

http://i.imgur.com/UE5prh.jpg

The hose is from http://www.fisheriessupply.com/. Unfortunately, I ordered 7 feet of 1 1/4 and they sent me 7 feet of 1 1/8! So, that will have to go back. Also ready to go is a new thermostat, fuel filter, water separator, impeller, and fresh manifold bolts & gaskets.

http://i.imgur.com/huuEmh.jpg

Will update as more parts arrive.

oxberger
04-02-2012, 12:51 PM
Awesome boat you got there! Thanks for all the cool pics too. Pictures are always appreciated around here. Looking forward to seeing the progress on this. Good luck on the refresh!

thatsmrmastercraft
04-02-2012, 12:56 PM
Love that picture of your boat as passenger on the ferry. Looking forward to seeing pics as things get installed.

Jerseydave
04-02-2012, 01:53 PM
Looking good. I have about 5 feet of 1 1/4 hose that I ordered by mistake (I needed 1")
Let me know if you need it, sell it to you below my cost.

catamount
04-02-2012, 02:08 PM
Looking good. I have about 5 feet of 1 1/4 hose that I ordered by mistake (I needed 1")
Let me know if you need it, sell it to you below my cost.

Thank you! However, I ordered and paid for the right stuff, so I'm going to make sure they send me the right stuff.

learjet2230
04-02-2012, 08:50 PM
Looks Great....what kind of shape are your factory valve covers in....I may be interested if you wanna part with them if they are in better shape then mine

learjet2230
04-02-2012, 08:51 PM
and i need to learn how to post pics like you do

catamount
04-02-2012, 09:02 PM
Looks Great....what kind of shape are your factory valve covers in....I may be interested if you wanna part with them if they are in better shape then mine

Thanks! I may be willing to part with them but they're probably in 6 out of 10 condition. Some rusty spots around the edges. I'll try to get a picture of them up soon.

SkiDog
04-02-2012, 09:05 PM
and i need to learn how to post pics like you do

No you need to learn how to post pics like COZ does!:D:D

orbeamlb
04-02-2012, 10:53 PM
Sharp looking 190. Love the color scheme.

imjusthereforthefood
04-05-2012, 10:52 AM
watching this thread. 87 ps 190 here too

Jeffer
04-07-2012, 12:43 PM
Always love refurb pictures. And I'm a New Englander at heart, and miss Vermont (summer and winter).
Keep the posts and pictures coming!

Lumbergh
04-07-2012, 12:56 PM
Great boat and pics!

+1 for fisheriessupply.

They are local to me, and nice folks. Love the Trident hose. Matches MC engines well.

Looks like you are hitting all the right things to freshen up your "new" boat.

catamount
04-17-2012, 11:02 PM
Sorry for the delay! Since my last update I've:


Installed the Ford Racing cast aluminum valve covers with new gaskets and longer studs
Installed a new thermostat and thermostat gasket
Ordered a bunch of Trident hose without realizing I needed the reinforced variety
Ordered a bunch more Trident hose of the reinforced variety :( (that stuff isn't cheap)
Replaced my water separator filter
Replaced my fuel filter
Replaced my spark plugs
Replaced my spark plug wires
Shored up my spark plug wires using the "zip tie trick" (pictures below)
Reinstalled my freshly painted manifolds with fresh gaskets and new manifold bolts
Found a Gates belt to replace the old ratty one that was there


I still need to:


Wait for my reinforced hose to arrive!
Reinstall my freshly painted risers
Wait for the powdercoater to finish the pylon & other metal interior pieces


A little progress, but a mess of spark plug wires.
http://i.imgur.com/kqdL7.jpg

Saw this trick on PowerBlock TV. Wrap a zip tie around the wires and then wrap zip ties between them. Snug them up and trim the ends. Makes for a really neat job, for very cheap!
http://i.imgur.com/krOrK.jpg

Cleans things up very nicely and appeals to my OCD.
http://i.imgur.com/vYcaZ.jpg

Freshly painted manifolds.
http://i.imgur.com/7uJNt.jpg

Gates variety alternator belt.
http://i.imgur.com/P0rup.jpg

I can't figure out how I'm going to tighten the hex head riser bolts that I got from skidim. The wrench barely has room to swing. Especially on the valve cover side!
http://i.imgur.com/SoODZ.jpg

d2jp
04-17-2012, 11:50 PM
12pt. box end? - SnapOn's flank drive provides plenty of grip on bolt head:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=633322&group_ID=675000&store=&dir=catalog

mzimme
04-17-2012, 11:59 PM
Pivot sockets?

http://www.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/139504/2/Swivel_Socket_7_16.jpg

holdenh2o
04-18-2012, 07:53 AM
Great looking boat. Love following your progress.

catamount
04-18-2012, 08:05 AM
Thank you!

A couple of questions:

What do you guys think I should do with the spark arrester? It's fine, but it's faded look kind of takes away from the fresh paint, wires and hoses on the rest of the engine. Chrome spark arrester replacement, or should I just repaint it? Is there a type of spray paint that works well with plastic?

Any thoughts about a light tint on the windows? At first I was completely against it, but the boat has a long black string down the side and a not-too-crazy tint might update the look a little bit and go well with the black strip. Don't want to make the boat useless at dawn & dusk though.

I did a couple of renderings. What do you guys think. Yay or nay?

http://i.imgur.com/ZzmlPh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/EISQy.jpg

http://www.monstertower.com.ua/users_photo/1364/33/large/Mastercraft_Burke_D_Allen.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JFxcX.jpg

LYNRDSKYNRD
04-18-2012, 06:50 PM
Looks great I bought the same valve covers for mine and am putting them on soon. How much of a pain were the manifolds to remove? Mine could use sand blasting too.

Jerseydave
04-18-2012, 06:56 PM
MAC or SNAP-ON box end crowfoot wrench, 3/8 drive.

Light tint looks nice to me!

Ditch the plastic spark arrestor cover.....looks fisher price-like to me anyway.
Plus all that does it for your engine to suck in hot engine air, something that cannot help performance anyway. Get a new spark arrestor for K & N (marine grade)

Lumbergh
04-18-2012, 07:02 PM
Tower looks good too for a 190. Clean lines.

catamount
04-18-2012, 09:12 PM
Looks great I bought the same valve covers for mine and am putting them on soon. How much of a pain were the manifolds to remove? Mine could use sand blasting too.

My manifolds came off nicely! Your mileage may vary from what I've read.

I actually ran into the more trouble with one of the original valve cover studs. Some of them were REALLY in there. One wouldn't come out. I had to resort to extreme measures.

I also got the "manifold hardware kit" from skidim which included (a) new bolts (b) manifold gaskets (c) new nipples for the cooling hose and (d) new drain plugs. Although, I opted for copper plugs I picked up from Lowes.

Also, if you use these valve covers you're going to need longer studs. I found out that these are nearly impossible to source locally unless you want to cut your own from threaded rod. I found a nice set on eBay for something like $14 shipped. You need 12 so this comes out to be a pretty fair deal. The best part, though, is that they have an allen head so you can screw them right in with a t-handle. No double-nutting.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Valve-Cover-Stud-Nut-Kit-289-302-351W-Ford-/110836976406?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19ce660b16#ht_521wt_921


MAC or SNAP-ON box end crowfoot wrench, 3/8 drive.

Light tint looks nice to me!

Ditch the plastic spark arrestor cover.....looks fisher price-like to me anyway.
Plus all that does it for your engine to suck in hot engine air, something that cannot help performance anyway. Get a new spark arrestor for K & N (marine grade)

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll probably do that. crowfoot box end is definitely not something I have! But crowfoot is a good idea.

orbeamlb
04-19-2012, 12:47 AM
I like the mild tint too. My 88 PS 200 has a different windshield than your PS 190 but you may want to consider tinting just the side windows and leaving the front stock. You'll get the updated look from the profile and still retain low light visibility. Here's a pic for reference.

memphis23
04-26-2012, 01:43 PM
Great job Boat looks great!

catamount
04-28-2012, 05:56 PM
Hey guys,

Latest update involves mostly riser mounting and hose replacement. Using all new hose clamps, gaskets and bolts along the way. Love those Trident hoses! I've actually got a lot leftover hose that I will probably be posting in the classifieds if anyone is thinking about doing the same.

Here was the top down view before.

http://i.imgur.com/7K8Fvh.jpg

And after.

http://i.imgur.com/77fiC.jpg

Port side manifold & riser before.

http://i.imgur.com/h0iIHh.jpg

And after.

http://i.imgur.com/w6DeE.jpg

From the front.

http://i.imgur.com/zt5jR.jpg

Starboard view.

http://i.imgur.com/KlacV.jpg


Another issue I ran into was that the left panel containing the hour gauge and ignition switch had screws that wouldn't tighten up. Seems to be that the nuts in the back were lost, and the previous owner used wood screws. There is zero room to work back there so I came up with an alternative using drywall anchors. It works pretty well with these black #6 screws.

http://i.imgur.com/OSfrG.jpg

Push them into the existing holes...

http://i.imgur.com/VRcfT.jpg?1?5273

...and fasten the screws. The previous owner told me that he thought the kill switch was an "option". I find that hard to believe. Thoughts?

http://i.imgur.com/17Wdg.jpg?1?6528

Still waiting for my rails and pylon to come back from powdercoating.

Parts replaced parts so far.

http://i.imgur.com/uYXT3.jpg

It was 35 degrees up here in Vermont this morning so I'm not feeling too rushed to finish it up, but the end is in sight.

catamount
04-29-2012, 09:06 PM
Today was the day to take apart my Morse MV-2 throttle control and give it a facelift. Okay, I don't think this is truly an MV-2 because it doesn't have the Neutral interlock, but it's darn close.

Mine was heavily chipped, pitted and even worse the control was sluggish and didn't move smoothly. Since I had some time on my hands, I decided to take it apart to re-lube the mechanism and powdercoat the cover.

Here was the cover before. Just... ugly.

http://i.imgur.com/6b6CH.jpg

Some gunked up interals shots, just in case someone needs them in the future. Pull the internals away from the plate SLOWLY so you do not lose the spring and the ball bearing on the end of it.

http://i.imgur.com/t0WGR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WTgKL.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/y9vMgh.jpg

Then I removed all of the old grease with greased lightening and some commercial grade PPG wax & grease remover.

http://i.imgur.com/y5pba.jpg

Next I put the faceplate into my sandblast cabinet and gave it a good cleaning. Every MC owner needs one of these! I found this one for $150 on Craigslist a couple of years ago while doing a motorcycle restoration.

http://i.imgur.com/IQ2eH.jpg

You can't get to this kind of finish with sandpaper! It only took about 10 minutes and a 33 gallon Craftsman compressor to get here.

http://i.imgur.com/E8CuB.jpg

I'm using the Eastood $150 "Hot Coat" kit to powdercoat this. I got it a few years back to do that motorcycle restoration I spoke of and once you get setup to do this kind of thing... you start looking around your garage for anything else to coat. It's really fun and does a nice job.

Anyway, the first step is to clean the part with wax & grease remover and then ground the part and spray the powder.

http://i.imgur.com/9NeZv.jpg

Then into a 400 degree oven (not your kitchen oven! ) in your garage. You should not use your "eating" oven for the byproducts will ruin future baked foods. I found this oven on Craigslist for free because the top wasn't functional.

The powder starts to "flow" out, the pores of the metal open and up and when it's done baking the part has a very strong and resilient shell.

http://i.imgur.com/VFZn1.jpg

Once it cools, it's ready to assemble. You can't do that with paint!

http://i.imgur.com/ULeq3.jpg

It's best to pre-bake cast parts like this at a higher temperature than you will be powdercoating at to release any trapped gasses *before* you spray the coating.

I forgot to do that so there is some minor pitting in the surface. You can't really even tell from up close though, so I'm not going to worry about it.

http://i.imgur.com/GIhWF.jpg

From there I greased up my internals, put it back together and everything works like new. It feels like a new control, and looks great doing it.

http://i.imgur.com/tQojP.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/r8tZf.jpg

On to the next project...

jakethebt
04-29-2012, 10:50 PM
Nice work!

RadarDad
04-30-2012, 10:01 AM
You guys are making me have second thoughts about selling my 1988 ProStar. Really nice work.

Lumbergh
04-30-2012, 01:05 PM
Excellent pics and progress.

catamount
05-01-2012, 10:45 PM
Tonight's project was replacing the broken stereo cover that came with the boat.

I knew I had to replace it but had a nearly impossible time finding a cover narrow enough to fit in that 2 1/2" tall spot where the stereo is located. I don't think there is an off the shelf cover that will fit without modifications.

Here is what I started with:

http://i.imgur.com/DsNTE.jpg

I thought about relocating the stereo and covering the hole with a plate, but decided to try modifying this small marine cover I found on ebay. It was about $10 shipped. Luckily, they included the dimensions in the ebay listing so I knew it would fit after some modifications.

Here is a link to the same item: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-Radio-Housing-Black-Plexi-New-Stereo-Cover-AM-FM-/130683666209?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item1e6d5a7f21&vxp=mtr

http://i.imgur.com/PoLhA.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/GOI8z.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5bzCu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0JcpB.jpg

It arrived.

http://i.imgur.com/03268.jpg

The first thing to do is measure the frame of the stereo. Mine was 7" x 2". They should all be relatively similar. I then covered the front with painters tape so it didn't get all scratched up while I had it face down on my workbench.

http://i.imgur.com/3hfi0.jpg

This cover was made for the old style 2-post stereos. This is where you take out your dremel and modify the back to fit. I cut out a 7" x 2" hole to accommodate the face of my stereo.

http://i.imgur.com/JiIYg.jpg

Eventually after some back-and-forth trimming I got a pretty tight fit. You have to be careful not to remove too much material as there will only be 1/4" of frame on each side when you're done.

It's not attached to the hull yet, and I'm not sure how I'm going to do that either. Some kind of adhesive? I would like to make this as waterproof as possible. Any suggestions?

http://i.imgur.com/UQMR6.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/nyFHt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/T6v1l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/x26TR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/GEqS1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/a1qsD.jpg

oxberger
05-02-2012, 02:13 PM
If you're going to make it permanent. You could krazy glue it, then a small bead of clear silicone around the outside.

catamount
05-02-2012, 02:41 PM
If you're going to make it permanent. You could krazy glue it, then a small bead of clear silicone around the outside.

I'm worried that someone is going to lean on it in a summer or two and I'm going to have to replace it again. I wonder if Silicone would be enough to keep it in place. Something like an RTV?

oxberger
05-02-2012, 03:45 PM
If your attaching it just to the outside on the fiberglass and not actually installing the radio in it, I think just using clear silicone like you would use around a tub would work fine in holding it in place and if someone were to break it, the silicone could be cut away and easily removed to replace with another face (of course after modifying to fit the opening again). The RTV seems more permanent to me like the crazt glue. If you're worried about breakage, I'd want to attach it to where it would hold but can easily be removed if needed.

catamount
05-08-2012, 10:59 AM
My PS 190 only came with 2 speakers, both stuffed under the observer's seat. They were terrible sounding. Actually, someone had tried to jam a 6" x 9" speaker behind this 5-inch hole.

http://i.imgur.com/LoBc5.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/cRqUV.jpg

Based on searches on TT, I found that Polks would be an affordable upgrade. I got 6.5" (Polk DB651) for the back of the boat and 5.25" (Polk DB 525) for the observer's seat.

http://i.imgur.com/YXMOR.jpg

They look good, and sound better. Thanks for the recommendations TT! Now I'm waiting for my amp to arrive so I can really power these.

http://i.imgur.com/DWxrd.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/UTB2L.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZpOV3.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/tXVpO.jpg

BriEOD
05-08-2012, 11:50 AM
Nice boat. I had an 87 PS 190 with the exact colors. Here is a thread with a bunch of photos that may give you some ideas.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=5675

catamount
05-15-2012, 10:57 AM
My MB Quart 4.80 came in so I got to work mounting it up. This is a budget build so I will be using a cutting board from the kitchen that we never use anymore (because it doesn't fit in the dishwasher), a sample section of Trex decking from the local lumber yard cut into quarters and some 5/16" stainless steel bolts.

http://i.imgur.com/IqRTy.jpg

I think I'll throw a fire extinguisher on there for good measure.

http://i.imgur.com/IawOX.jpg

Laying it all out, cutting holes in the carpet.

http://i.imgur.com/Vgr6J.jpg

Drill holes for the bolts and boring out space for the heads so they fit flush against the hull. Epoxied the stainless bolts into each piece and then secured them to the hull with PL Premium.

http://i.imgur.com/HG5sj.jpg

And then, after a few hours of running wires, it's mounted. I think I'll need to see a chiropractor after getting in and out of that space about 20 times over the course of a few nights.

http://i.imgur.com/JT3Md.jpg

Also had some parts come back from powder coating. Just waiting on the rails now and this project is pretty much complete.

Before:

http://i.imgur.com/VHkN5.jpg

After:

http://i.imgur.com/YYNXl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8nr6v.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2EyWF.jpg

learjet2230
05-15-2012, 01:31 PM
Purdy!!

BrooksfamX2
05-15-2012, 01:47 PM
Lookin good.........

thatsmrmastercraft
05-15-2012, 02:06 PM
Nice work.

mzimme
05-15-2012, 02:29 PM
That cargo space is fun isnt it?? I still have scabs on my knees and elbows where I got rugburn from crawling in and out of there many times. Yoga classes ahead of time would definitely have been beneficial.

gweaver
05-15-2012, 03:04 PM
Nice work!! I've got an 88, and have been working on small things to tidy it up. I really like what you've done with the mount for the amp. The head unit in mine is bad, so when I replace it, I might add an amp and sub. I may have to follow your lead on the mounting. Just to clarify- you epoxied/glued the Trex blocks to the hull, epoxied bolts in to holes, then bolt the amp mounting plate to that?
G

mikeg205
05-15-2012, 03:17 PM
atsa - nice.... nice work!

catamount
05-15-2012, 03:54 PM
Nice work!! I've got an 88, and have been working on small things to tidy it up. I really like what you've done with the mount for the amp. The head unit in mine is bad, so when I replace it, I might add an amp and sub. I may have to follow your lead on the mounting. Just to clarify- you epoxied/glued the Trex blocks to the hull, epoxied bolts in to holes, then bolt the amp mounting plate to that?
G

You got it! Don't forget to countersink the bolt holes into the trex. You've got to epoxy them in there really well because when you start cranking down on the bolts the last thing you want is for the head of that nut to start spinning behind the trex, where you will never be able to get to it again (because you've glued it to the hull already).

I used PL Premium to secure the Trex to the hull, based on other experience I read on various boating forums.

http://images.architecturaldepot.com/images/id/0255/53709.jpg

gweaver
05-15-2012, 04:19 PM
Any thoughts on maybe drilling/tapping in to the Trex instead? It would seem that the weight of the amp/extinguisher wouldn't put much load on the plastic, I wonder if a coarse-thread bolt would hold well? Or maybe thread in and epoxy a stud? Tho I guess you're not going to be installing/removing the mount plate often, so the bolt turning shouldn't be a problem.
G

catamount
05-15-2012, 04:44 PM
Any thoughts on maybe drilling/tapping in to the Trex instead? It would seem that the weight of the amp/extinguisher wouldn't put much load on the plastic, I wonder if a coarse-thread bolt would hold well? Or maybe thread in and epoxy a stud? Tho I guess you're not going to be installing/removing the mount plate often, so the bolt turning shouldn't be a problem.
G

Yeah, I thought about that too. But there just seemed to be so many more variables:

- you would need exactly the right bolt length or risk punching into the hull
- what if you over tightened and stripped the hole
- Difficult to align when going to mount the board with amp attached (it's pretty heavy)

With the bolt facing this way, you can get a slightly longer bolt and never worry that it might be too short, or that it will strip out in the trex. Also, it's MUCH easier to position everything if you can just hang your board on the bolts, then move your hands away to find your ratchet.

Trying to fiddle with 2 heavy 4 gauge wires and 8 speaker wires while positioning the heavy board and trying to align the bolts in their holes could be very frustrating.

I really think this is the way to go.

gweaver
05-15-2012, 05:11 PM
Very good points- I hadn't thought about the weight part and having to support and align the amp mount while trying to thread the bolt in. I should have thought about that, given that a little while ago, I replaced a threaded hole/bolt combination on my motorcycle with a stud/nut system which made it much easier to mount things.
Good call! :toast:

G

catamount
05-21-2012, 11:54 PM
When I bought this boat in the middle of winter, there was no way to hear it run before exchanging the money.

Needless to say, when I got the boat out today and turned the key for the FIRST time, I was pretty thrilled when it came to life. Now all that is left is to get it wet! Next weekend will be the maiden voyage, I hope.

A quick video here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ijRHzAxwYM&feature=youtu.be

thatsmrmastercraft
05-22-2012, 10:17 AM
When I bought this boat in the middle of winter, there was no way to hear it run before exchanging the money.

Needless to say, when I got the boat out today and turned the key for the FIRST time, I was pretty thrilled when it came to life. Now all that is left is to get it wet! Next weekend will be the maiden voyage, I hope.

A quick video here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ijRHzAxwYM&feature=youtu.be

The only thing better than the first start is the first time out on the water. or maybe the second time out.......or perhaps the third:rolleyes::D

mzimme
05-22-2012, 10:22 AM
The only thing better than the first start is the first time out on the water. or maybe the second time out.......or perhaps the third:rolleyes::D

Isnt that the truth. Third time was the charm for me ;)

Lumbergh
05-22-2012, 10:58 AM
Cool video. Just ran mine on hose last weekend for the first time since last summer.

Great feeling.

catamount
05-22-2012, 11:15 AM
Yeah I REALLY can't wait to get this thing wet!

d2jp
05-22-2012, 07:09 PM
Great job on your 'new' boat, it looks really nice and sounds great!

catamount
10-09-2012, 11:20 AM
Anyone with an 87 or 88 Prostar knows that the dash area makes it nearly impossible to fit a replacement DIN stereo in place with any kind of waterproof cover. The area is just too thin to fit a normal waterproof cover. I tried cobbling together a new cover but it was hard to get it to stay in place and to keep the water out, plus it just looked dated and was cheaply constructed.

http://i.imgur.com/T6v1l.jpg

I got caught in a storm once early in the summer, and the stereo died. After a summer without any tunes, I was fed up. One problem is that the dash area is VERY limited on this boat.

Wanting to avoid anything with a place for water to enter (an external aux port or CD slot for instance), I decided to give the new Jensen MS30 a shot. It only takes up 3inches of space, and is completely waterproof.

I bought it from Katerno for under $100 shipped:

http://www.katerno.com/detail/s/347342/p/MS30RTL/JENSEN-MS30-AM/FM/USB---MS30RTL

This unit was just released recently so there are zero reviews of it online. I must be one of the first.

http://i.imgur.com/XET1m.jpg

Besides being tiny and waterproof, it is actually a pretty robust little unit for it's size. On the back there are inputs for RCA AUX, as well as a USB input for an MP3 device. Cool!


160 watts (40w x4)
IPX6 waterproof design
AM/FM
Full four channel output
USB input for MP3 enable devices
Auxiliary input (RCA)
Line out audio (RCA)
Large, daylight readable LCD display
Audio tone, balance and fader controls
Zero current memory draw
Conformal-coated circuit boards
Blue backlit controls (LED illumination)
UV-resistant finishes/materials (meets ASTMD4329)
Corrosion-resistant materials (meets ASTMB117)
FCC/CE certified


There are line outs for your amp, but unfortunately no "remote" line to turn on the amp. To solve that problem, I bought a $12 unit from PAC that will accomplish the task of turning the AMP off when the stereo is no longer in use: PAC TR-4 Car Audio Remote Wire Turn On Wire 2 Second Delay Module

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31a2k49sltL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

The first thing to do was to sketch out where it would go:

http://i.imgur.com/va9t5.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ijgGR.jpg

A multipurpose cutting bit on a Dremel made short work of the cut out.

http://i.imgur.com/y9r6A.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gbAOm.jpg

It looks good in it's new home. I should've taken a picture with the unit on, but it skipped my mind. It has a cool blue back light.

Best of all, I can leave this thing outside in the elements without a cover and know it'll work the next day.

http://i.imgur.com/J4Z8n.jpg

The next thing to do is fab up a cover plate for that unsightly hole where my old stereo used to live. I am thinking that I'll powder coat a thin piece of stainless and then have someone etch the Mastercraft logo into it.

DooSPX
10-11-2012, 10:21 AM
Looks good! Keep us up to date on how that jensen works out for you!

DooSPX
01-04-2013, 11:55 AM
I know I dug this up from the dead, but I was wondering how you like that jensen unit?

catamount
02-01-2013, 11:38 PM
I know I dug this up from the dead, but I was wondering how you like that jensen unit?

I don't really have any time on the water with it yet. I expect it will work out pretty well though, I love that it is self-contained with no place for water to get in, yet it still has aux input and amp outs. I just need to fabricate a cover or DIN drawer for the opening left behind by the old stereo.

I'll be sure to update this thread in the spring when I get this thing out on the water.

catamount
02-01-2013, 11:39 PM
My MC has been wrapped for a couple of months now but I did take some parts off to play with this winter.

I took my crank pulley off, blasted it and powder coated it in my home powder coat setup.

http://i.imgur.com/AKeTaUD.jpg

I also rebuilt my Johnson water pump. This thing was spray painted black and looked terrible. It also leaked like crazy. I got a new seal from skidim and it seems to hold water now in an unscientific sink test.

I took a wire wheel to the body to clean off the old ugly paint.

http://i.imgur.com/L2L9owB.jpg

Then blasted & powdercoated the bracket, replaced the rubber grommet and put it back together with a stainless bolt. It's as good as new.

http://i.imgur.com/NmLylsa.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/LsJSIob.jpg

TN Barefooter
02-05-2013, 01:00 PM
Looks like you're doing a great job so far. Thanks for sharing your progress.

catamount
05-16-2013, 03:58 PM
I finally had to do something about the hole left behind by the old stereo. I was thinking about putting a tray or box in there, but couldn't find anything that looked like it would look good there.

http://i.imgur.com/AgAteUp.jpg

I decided to enlist the help of a machinist friend to carve me something out of CNC.

First we cut some aluminum stock to fit over the hole.

http://i.imgur.com/bvk0cFp.jpg

Then mocked something up in Adobe Illustrator using the HemiHead font.

http://i.imgur.com/cZZ5xxl.jpg

I have an old oven in my garage that I do hobbyist level powdercoating in, so I decided to coat it black (along with some other bolts for the boat).

http://i.imgur.com/gNiWH0n.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/dG4bPEV.jpg

25 minutes and 350 degrees later, cured gloss black.

http://i.imgur.com/UATEPpM.jpg

Today I brought the coated plate to my machinist buddy along with the file. The end result is pretty slick! I'll follow up with a final photo once I get it mounted.

http://i.imgur.com/7OCHu7p.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/1WirsUO.jpg

thatsmrmastercraft
05-16-2013, 04:35 PM
Nice work!

okkomatz
05-20-2013, 11:56 AM
I'm loving this thread! I just read through the whole thing since I just recently purchased a '87 Prostar 190 with only 605 hours! I've had it out on the water twice since I bought it in April and am loving it! Currently I'm upgrading the stereo as mine still had the original cassette deck.. Haha Keep us posted!

catamount
05-20-2013, 12:02 PM
Thank you okkomatz. You should join the forum!

To keep this thread updated: this past weekend I replaced the starter with an Arco 70200 gear reduction unit heavily recommended by other PS 190 owners.

http://i.imgur.com/prCxZCd.jpg

Put in the recommended heater Y pipe.

http://i.imgur.com/As3UlnS.jpg

Replaced my ultraflex 14' steering cable.

http://i.imgur.com/FX1n8mX.jpg

And started rebuilding my 4160. That thread is here (https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=54417).

http://i.imgur.com/OPjBlxX.jpg

catamount
06-25-2013, 11:55 AM
Just a follow up to this thread. When I put on my plug wires I ran them neatly parallel as evidenced here.

http://i.imgur.com/vYcaZ.jpg

What I have since learned is that the wires for cylinders 1 & 3, and 5 & 6 should not be run closely together. Induction "cross fire) can occur. I was experiencing random misses and they seem to have gone away since re-routing the wires according to this ford TSB image below. It says 5.0L but it applies to the 5.8L as well.

http://i.imgur.com/fm4Ix7w.jpg

Also, "Spark plug & coil wires should measure ~7KOhm/foot from the terminal inside the distributor cap to the terminal in the boot that slips over the spark plug. "

charrison327
07-10-2013, 07:49 PM
nice work. after going through your thread..... i want to invest in a blasting/coating setup. i want to clean my motor up and make it look awesome too!!