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Dino Don
03-03-2012, 04:55 PM
Anyone used the regular edlebrock 2181 Performer intake on their 351? If so, how did it seem to work out? thanks!

Muz65
03-03-2012, 05:56 PM
Dino, I have an original Shelby 351 inlet manifold I am looking to use on mine and will let you know how I get on. If anyone has a very on any changes needed to the carby, jetting or alike? It would also be appreciated.

east tx skier
03-03-2012, 06:22 PM
I used the Edelbrock Performer on my 351 HO. It was a nice compliment to the GT-40 heads.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-03-2012, 07:57 PM
The regular performer is a great intake for your boat. When I got my boat, the PO had installed a Summit Stage 1 which is virtually identical to the Performer and it works very well.

Dino Don
03-03-2012, 10:34 PM
I didn't know if the extra height of the RPM style 7181 would be better. Just looking for power not 50 mph + boat. Haven't put it on yet but time is getting closer. Idea was to replace heads and got caught in that--while I'm in there--thing. Only thing left is to replace the intake with the performer I got this winter.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-03-2012, 10:46 PM
If a person wanted more power for footing or pulling multiple skiers, I could see going with a cam, Edelbrock 7181 & GT-40 heads. Short of that, I would go with the standard Performer and be happy.

BriEOD
03-04-2012, 12:28 AM
Yep, had one as well on my old boat. I was pleased with it.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-04-2012, 11:39 AM
I guess I'm the odd man here, I went with the weiand stealth intake manifold...

learjet2230
03-04-2012, 11:59 AM
Dino,
I have one as well and am happy with it (6+ years now). I will make a suggestion to get one that is finished (ie satin). My bare aluminum intake is showing some surface corrosion, although our lake is very brackish. One other thing to keep in mind is the height is going to change so you may have to ditch the spacer and bolt the carb direct (use a square open gasket not the 4-hole gasket). Go ahead and plumb the PCV into the port on the right rear intake runner. I installed a new Holley 4160 this weekend and I was going to go back with a 1" 4-hole spacer to gain a little more low/mid...and it wouldn't fit due to height! Your engine box may be different...dont know what year you have. Mine is an 88' PS190 and it has no acoustic foam under the cover for what its worth. Also if you still have a hard fuel line from the pump to the carb, be ready to change to barbed fittings and rubber hose or have a custom line made as the change in height wont allow the hard line to reach. Just my .02! Just giving you this info so you dont have to make 20 trips and wait on something you forgot to order and get on the water as soon as possible! Enjoy it and keep us posted. Cheers!!

thatsmrmastercraft
03-04-2012, 02:58 PM
I guess I'm the odd man here, I went with the weiand stealth intake manifold...

Classic and effective intake there.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-04-2012, 03:06 PM
Dino,
I have one as well and am happy with it (6+ years now). I will make a suggestion to get one that is finished (ie satin). My bare aluminum intake is showing some surface corrosion, although our lake is very brackish. One other thing to keep in mind is the height is going to change so you may have to ditch the spacer and bolt the carb direct (use a square open gasket not the 4-hole gasket). Go ahead and plumb the PCV into the port on the right rear intake runner. I installed a new Holley 4160 this weekend and I was going to go back with a 1" 4-hole spacer to gain a little more low/mid...and it wouldn't fit due to height! Your engine box may be different...dont know what year you have. Mine is an 88' PS190 and it has no acoustic foam under the cover for what its worth. Also if you still have a hard fuel line from the pump to the carb, be ready to change to barbed fittings and rubber hose or have a custom line made as the change in height wont allow the hard line to reach. Just my .02! Just giving you this info so you dont have to make 20 trips and wait on something you forgot to order and get on the water as soon as possible! Enjoy it and keep us posted. Cheers!!

Under no circumstances have a rubber fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor. This is this against Coast Guard regulations as a even a small leak could fill your bilge with gas and cause your boat to explode. If you don't have the experience to bend a new fuel line, SKIDIM sells a Coast Guard approved braided stainless line.

http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1117&val=0&pagenumber=2

learjet2230
03-04-2012, 03:30 PM
Under no circumstances have a rubber fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor. This is this against Coast Guard regulations as a even a small leak could fill your bilge with gas and cause your boat to explode. If you don't have the experience to bend a new fuel line, SKIDIM sells a Coast Guard approved braided stainless line.

http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1117&val=0&pagenumber=2

Guess youve never experience a cracked hard line then.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-04-2012, 03:40 PM
Guess youve never experience a cracked hard line then.

The only reason I can imagine a person could have a cracked hard line in a marine application is from a faulty flare, so no, I have never had one.

You aren't actually endorsing a rubber fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb on a boat, are you?

learjet2230
03-04-2012, 06:32 PM
The only reason I can imagine a person could have a cracked hard line in a marine application is from a faulty flare, so no, I have never had one.

You aren't actually endorsing a rubber fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb on a boat, are you?

Peter,
Cmon Man! We could go round and round on this forever! All I did was suggest to use that to get it running. I did mention the hard line as well. But in a pinch when a guy is all excited to get his boat back on the water...IT WORKS if installed properly. Am I ENDORSING it....NO! Being a professional mechanic, I have seen hard line cracked from improper installation, corrosion, water that froze and split it, etc. Go look at a holley MARINE approved pro-jection and tell me what kind of hose is down stream of the fuel pump!! Its rubber hose and clamps!! Are you telling me that if you were gonna put that in YOU would hard line it!! Are you telling me that Holley is gonna stick their pee pee out and do something that doesnt work! Thats a whole lot fuel if that thing were to let loose. I wouldn't even consider it if I were you! Too dangerous....and here is one more thing for you.....RUBBER HOSE IS ALLOWED PER THE USCG!!@!!!

.......ALL FUEL LINES MUST BE U.S.C.G. APPROVED. METALLIC LINES MUST BE MADE OF SEAMLESS
ANNEALED COPPER, STAINLESS STEEL, NICKEL COPPER, OR COPPER NICKEL AND EXCEPT FOR
CORRUGATED FLEXIBLE LINE, HAVE A MINIMUM WALL THICKNESS OF .029 INCHES. RUBBER HOSE
MUST BE MARKED “U.S.C.G. TYPE A1”. UNITED STATES COAST GUARD APPROVED HOSE CLAMPS
MUST ALSO BE USED. USE OF AUTOMOTIVE GRADE FUEL LINES COULD CAUSE A FIRE OR EXPLOSION
HAZARD WHICH COULD CAUSE PROPERTY DAMAGE, SERIOUS INJURY, AND/OR DEATH.
http://www.holley.com/data/products/pictures/largeMarine2bbl.jpg

Dino Don
03-04-2012, 11:40 PM
Dino,
I have one as well and am happy with it (6+ years now). I will make a suggestion to get one that is finished (ie satin). My bare aluminum intake is showing some surface corrosion, although our lake is very brackish. One other thing to keep in mind is the height is going to change so you may have to ditch the spacer and bolt the carb direct (use a square open gasket not the 4-hole gasket). Go ahead and plumb the PCV into the port on the right rear intake runner. I installed a new Holley 4160 this weekend and I was going to go back with a 1" 4-hole spacer to gain a little more low/mid...and it wouldn't fit due to height! Your engine box may be different...dont know what year you have. Mine is an 88' PS190 and it has no acoustic foam under the cover for what its worth. Also if you still have a hard fuel line from the pump to the carb, be ready to change to barbed fittings and rubber hose or have a custom line made as the change in height wont allow the hard line to reach. Just my .02! Just giving you this info so you dont have to make 20 trips and wait on something you forgot to order and get on the water as soon as possible! Enjoy it and keep us posted. Cheers!!

Thanks for the info--mine is an '87 190 and I imagine it is the same basic set up as yours, especially the engine cover. I didn't know if the 2181 was much taller than the stock one and I wondered about the height issue. Spacer and fuel line is a completely different thing.
Like so much of the other stuff once you open up that can of worms you just don't ever know. It's what I get for just changing heads--found I had cylinder issues so engine came out--bored .030 over, flat top pistons, balanced, another cam, now intake.???? Got about 7 hours on it before winter came and then found this intake. Now at least I know more of what to expect in changing it.

thatsmrmastercraft
03-05-2012, 02:12 AM
Peter,
Cmon Man! We could go round and round on this forever! All I did was suggest to use that to get it running. I did mention the hard line as well. But in a pinch when a guy is all excited to get his boat back on the water...IT WORKS if installed properly. Am I ENDORSING it....NO! Being a professional mechanic, I have seen hard line cracked from improper installation, corrosion, water that froze and split it, etc. Go look at a holley MARINE approved pro-jection and tell me what kind of hose is down stream of the fuel pump!! Its rubber hose and clamps!! Are you telling me that if you were gonna put that in YOU would hard line it!! Are you telling me that Holley is gonna stick their pee pee out and do something that doesnt work! Thats a whole lot fuel if that thing were to let loose. I wouldn't even consider it if I were you! Too dangerous....and here is one more thing for you.....RUBBER HOSE IS ALLOWED PER THE USCG!!@!!!

.......ALL FUEL LINES MUST BE U.S.C.G. APPROVED. METALLIC LINES MUST BE MADE OF SEAMLESS
ANNEALED COPPER, STAINLESS STEEL, NICKEL COPPER, OR COPPER NICKEL AND EXCEPT FOR
CORRUGATED FLEXIBLE LINE, HAVE A MINIMUM WALL THICKNESS OF .029 INCHES. RUBBER HOSE
MUST BE MARKED “U.S.C.G. TYPE A1”. UNITED STATES COAST GUARD APPROVED HOSE CLAMPS
MUST ALSO BE USED. USE OF AUTOMOTIVE GRADE FUEL LINES COULD CAUSE A FIRE OR EXPLOSION
HAZARD WHICH COULD CAUSE PROPERTY DAMAGE, SERIOUS INJURY, AND/OR DEATH.
http://www.holley.com/data/products/pictures/largeMarine2bbl.jpg


No intention to go round and round on this forever. I will give you that there is indeed rubber fuel line that is Coast Guard approved http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/documents/365A1-15FUELHOSESpecificationSheet.pdf , however you did not specify that in your original post. I don't think that the average person on this forum is aware of that and with your suggestion to use a rubber line, they would get simple reinforce fuel line from the parts store. I will also give you credit for the recommendation for barbed fittings. Interestingly, I did not find any reference to Coast Guard approved hose clamps when I searched.

Clearly your suggestions weren't intended to be inappropriate in nature. I wouldn't hesitate to run plain rubber fuel line in attempt to start the engine in my boat while running in my driveway attended, yet I would make sure I included a disclaimer not to use this same arrangement for normal use when making changes to an existing approved fuel system were I providing advice to someone.

The Marine Holley Projection 2D instructions do indeed call for the use of Coast Guard approved type A1 rubber fuel line. I do find it interesting that you chose to omit the warning at the end of the Marine Holley Projection 2D which specifically cautions of the dangers of automotive grade fuel line.

ALL FUEL LINES MUST BE U.S.C.G. APPROVED. METALLIC LINES MUST BE MADE OF SEAMLESS
ANNEALED COPPER, STAINLESS STEEL, NICKEL COPPER, OR COPPER NICKEL AND EXCEPT FOR
CORRUGATED FLEXIBLE LINE, HAVE A MINIMUM WALL THICKNESS OF .029 INCHES. RUBBER HOSE
MUST BE MARKED “U.S.C.G. TYPE A1”. UNITED STATES COAST GUARD APPROVED HOSE CLAMPS
MUST ALSO BE USED. USE OF AUTOMOTIVE GRADE FUEL LINES COULD CAUSE A FIRE OR EXPLOSION
HAZARD WHICH COULD CAUSE PROPERTY DAMAGE, SERIOUS INJURY, AND/OR DEATH.

learjet2230
03-05-2012, 09:34 AM
I did include the warning that Holley put in their instructions (see below my original quote). Its in red text. And here is your hose clamp reference. Hopefully we all learned something here.

.......ALL FUEL LINES MUST BE U.S.C.G. APPROVED. METALLIC LINES MUST BE MADE OF SEAMLESS
ANNEALED COPPER, STAINLESS STEEL, NICKEL COPPER, OR COPPER NICKEL AND EXCEPT FOR
CORRUGATED FLEXIBLE LINE, HAVE A MINIMUM WALL THICKNESS OF .029 INCHES. RUBBER HOSE
MUST BE MARKED “U.S.C.G. TYPE A1”. UNITED STATES COAST GUARD APPROVED HOSE CLAMPS
MUST ALSO BE USED. USE OF AUTOMOTIVE GRADE FUEL LINES COULD CAUSE A FIRE OR EXPLOSION
HAZARD WHICH COULD CAUSE PROPERTY DAMAGE, SERIOUS INJURY, AND/OR DEATH.

C.F.R. PART 183—BOATS AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT......
183.530 Spud, pipe, and hose fitting configuration.
top
Except when used for a tank fill line, each spud, pipe, or hose fitting used with hose clamps must have:

(a) A bead;

(b) A flare; or

(c) A series of annular grooves or serrations no less than 0.015 inches deep, except a continuous helical thread, knurl, or groove.

[CGD 74–209, 42 FR 5950, Jan. 31, 1977, as amended by USCG–1999–5832, 64 FR 34716, June 29, 1999]

183.532 Clips, straps, and hose clamps.
top
(a) Each clip, strap, and hose clamp must:

(1) Be made from a corrosion resistant material; and

(2) Not cut or abrade the fuel line.

(b) If tested in accordance with the fire test under 183.590, a hose clamp installed on a fuel line system requiring metallic fuel lines or “USCG Type A1” hose must not separate under a one pound tensile force.

[CGD 74–209, 42 FR 5950, Jan. 31, 1977, as amended by CGD 85–098, 52 FR 19728, May 27, 1987]

Kyle
03-12-2012, 05:27 PM
So a ZIP TIE would not work as a hose clamp????

ZIP TIES do not rust and are a corrosion resistant material especially after a beer is spilt on them.

:D

thatsmrmastercraft
03-12-2012, 07:36 PM
So a ZIP TIE would not work as a hose clamp????

ZIP TIES do not rust and are a corrosion resistant material especially after a beer is spilt on them.

:D

I like the Zip Tie idea as a hose clamp as I have yet to see a metal hose clamp not damage the integrity (ever so slightly) the surface of a rubber hose.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
03-12-2012, 08:16 PM
This is what we used on naval aircraft, yes even airplanes use rubber hoses and clamps:eek3: