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95_190_PS_PS
02-03-2012, 06:23 PM
I just bought a new to me mastercraft for what I consider a good deal. I am working on replacing my exhaust manifolds and risers. I dont have any issue getting the manifolds or risers off, but I am having a hell of a time trying to get the heavy rubber exhaust hose off of the risers. The boat is a 1995 190 prostar with the LT1. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Dan

Jerseydave
02-03-2012, 06:44 PM
Welcome! I've never done that job myself but I would think some heat on the hose from a heat gun or hair drier would help. MAC and Snap-On also make a hose removal tool to help loosen the hose. I looks like an ice pick with a 90 degree bend.

Post some pics of your Prostar!

thatsmrmastercraft
02-03-2012, 06:55 PM
Welcome aboard. Now would be a good time to replace those hoses as well. If that is the case, a razor knife and side cutters will do. If you plan to re-use the hose, heat and a large jaw channel locks with a little padding on the hose will get it to twist a little. Once you break it free you have it easy. Good luck.

etduc
02-03-2012, 07:04 PM
Remove clamp. You can make a hose tool. Screw driver, also works.
Slide screwdriver (tool) between hose and manifold riser. Squirt WD-40, actually blinding lube (a.k.a. -dish soap) works probably better. No mess.
Work the tool, around the riser, don't have to go all the way. Then spin the riser off the hose.

Cloaked
02-03-2012, 07:24 PM
$0.02 ==> Replace the hoses while you have it apart. Box cutter and slice it right off.

past experience ==> http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=707168&postcount=8

new hose ==> www.skidim.com (http://www.skidim.com)

.

ahhudgins
02-03-2012, 08:11 PM
You said you didn't have any issue taking the manifolds and risers off, but if you haven't taken them off yet....do them first! Some people try to get the hose off with the manifolds and risers still attached to the motor, which is hard to do. Let some lubricant soak in for a while after you pry a little with a screwdriver or special tool.

As etduc said, have someone hold the exhaust hose and then you spin the riser and pull it out of the hose.

95_190_PS_PS
02-03-2012, 08:23 PM
Thanks for the quick responses. The hoses are actually new, with less than 1 hour on them. They were replaced when the previous owner had the heads at the machine shop trying to detect where water was leaking into the engine, I am really hoping that the exhaust manifolds and risers give me the fix I need. The right exhaust manifold was full of rusty water when I pulled it and it looks like the valves and heads have some rust stains on them. The left side was nice, dry and clean. I am going to try heating the hoses first before I try dish soap or WD40 in them.

mikeg205
02-03-2012, 08:44 PM
$0.02 ==> Replace the hoses while you have it apart. Box cutter and slice it right off.

past experience ==> http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=707168&postcount=8

new hose ==> www.skidim.com (http://www.skidim.com)

.


there's that picture again.....

I tapped a screwdriver between riser and hose...and then pried a little at a time while the riser was still connected. That rubber likes to stick to the paint. A pain - but easy to do...

Water intrusion? that's always scary...

Lumbergh
02-03-2012, 08:48 PM
Mine would not come off either.

Razor blade is your friend.

$50 for enough hose to make 2 new riser hoses.

Preventive maintenance.

95_190_PS_PS
02-03-2012, 09:02 PM
The water in the engine is why I got a good deal, I figured worst case s I need a new block and will have a big winter project on my hands. The tubes are slowly moving with the wd40, I'm just going to be patient.

east tx skier
02-03-2012, 09:06 PM
$0.02 ==> Replace the hoses while you have it apart. Box cutter and slice it right off.

past experience ==> http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=707168&postcount=8

new hose ==> www.skidim.com (http://www.skidim.com)

.

Been there with a different boat hose. In this one instance, my time and skin on my knuckles was worth more than my money.

oldairboater
02-03-2012, 10:10 PM
Use a good light oil. Flat large just long enough to be handy screw driver and rubber mallet. Drive in screw driver to create a gap and let oil go where the screw driver is holding the rubber out. Keep doing this all the way around. Not rocket science and stretching the hose a little while breaking it away from the risers will not hurt them. Once you get this done enough you will be able to work hoses loose. Before you get carried away with this over haul/ new engine try trouble shooting your problem instead of just jumping to a change out. This could be anything from heads to block to gaskets, etc, etc,etc.

ski/hunt
02-03-2012, 10:12 PM
PB blaster---works way better than WD-40!!!

oldairboater
02-03-2012, 10:15 PM
WD-40 is good for drying water off of metal and I think it sucks as a light oil. Never have understood why people like it so much. I discovered a new use for it a few years ago. Removing the paper labels stuck on things. I don't use it for much else now.

95_190_PS_PS
02-03-2012, 10:21 PM
I just got the hoses off, I used a few screw drivers positioned between the riser and tube and sprayed wd40 again then was able to slide the riser right out.

I'm definitely not going to jump to a new block lightly, the previous owner said he had the heads checked out at a shop, they checked good, I can only assume that they changed the gaskets during that, I know that they at least changed the exhaust manifold gaskets, so it would make sense for them to have changed the intake manifold and head gaskets too.

I'm going to put the new exhaust manifolds and risers on tonight, change the oil and spark plugs in the morning then try her out. Would you guys recommend the hose in the bucket in the boat method for cooling the engine/exhaust, or should I put the boat in a lake to run the engine? I live in Florida, so I'm looking at about 1/2 hour drive to the nearest lake. I'm 2 blocks away from a boat ramp onto the intercoastal waterway, but would rather avoid the salt/brackish water.

Mastercraft forum members are great, you are all so helpful!

Jerseydave
02-03-2012, 10:49 PM
[QUOTE=95_190_PS_PS;814532]I just got the hoses off, I used a few screw drivers positioned between the riser and tube and sprayed wd40 again then was able to slide the riser right out.

I'm definitely not going to jump to a new block lightly, the previous owner said he had the heads checked out at a shop, they checked good, I can only assume that they changed the gaskets during that, I know that they at least changed the exhaust manifold gaskets, so it would make sense for them to have changed the intake manifold and head gaskets too.

I'm going to put the new exhaust manifolds and risers on tonight, change the oil and spark plugs in the morning then try her out. Would you guys recommend the hose in the bucket in the boat method for cooling the engine/exhaust, or should I put the boat in a lake to run the engine? I live in Florida, so I'm looking at about 1/2 hour drive to the nearest lake. I'm 2 blocks away from a boat ramp onto the intercoastal waterway, but would rather avoid the salt/brackish water.

I use the bucket method to run my engine on the trailer. If you have 2 garden hoses that's even better as the engine will empty the bucket fast with only 1 hose feeding it. I use a garden hose ball valve on the end of my hose from home depot so I don't have to keep running to the spigot to turn water off.

BTW, the LT-1 can warp heads easy if overheated so watch for that in case the previous owner ran it hot. Compression test and leakdown test may help you find your problem.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-03-2012, 11:02 PM
My boat came with a water in the oil problem the I eventually diagnosed as a bad exhaust manifold. No need to put the boat in the water to test it as you are only going to want to run it for a minute before you shut it off for the first time to check for water in the oil. I am a fan of the bucket method, but plenty people here use a fake-a-lake.

95_190_PS_PS
02-04-2012, 08:59 PM
Just an update for anyone who is curious, the manifolds and risers are installed, but the mounting kit that skidim sent me had a 90 degree bend on the water hose to manifold plastic connector rather than the straight one I needed. I ordered a set of replacement "straight" connectors from a fairly local ski shop. They told me that I didn't actually need the ones I ordered , and that I would be just fine picking up some nylon connectors in the plumbing section of Home Depot. So I have the real ones ordered and temporarily have the nylon ones installed.

I also ran into a problem while changing my oil. The boat has the remote drain kit installed, and its my understanding that you use a hex key to unscrew to drain the oil. The head seems stripped, since I can't find any hex key that fits correctly (English or Metric). I will be doing a "regular" oil change tomorrow, and inspect further.

Cloaked
02-04-2012, 09:09 PM
Just an update for anyone who is curious, the manifolds and risers are installed, but the mounting kit that skidim sent me had a 90 degree bend on the water hose to manifold plastic connector rather than the straight one I needed. I ordered a set of replacement "straight" connectors from a fairly local ski shop. They told me that I didn't actually need the ones I ordered , and that I would be just fine picking up some nylon connectors in the plumbing section of Home Depot. So I have the real ones ordered and temporarily have the nylon ones installed.

I also ran into a problem while changing my oil. The boat has the remote drain kit installed, and its my understanding that you use a hex key to unscrew to drain the oil. The head seems stripped, since I can't find any hex key that fits correctly (English or Metric). I will be doing a "regular" oil change tomorrow, and inspect further.The 90s should work with a bit of coaxing the hose. My last boat had a 90 deg turn and they were turned up a bit on an angle where the hose fit just fine. I may be wrong about that (been a while since I gave it any attention) but I am fixing to replace straight nylon with brass 90s sometime soon. Already have them in hand from SKIDIM. The nylon material will suffice but if you happen to overheat, they can become an issue.

Can't advise on the oil change. My kit has a hose that has a 1/2" cap on the end thata common open or box wrench will do the job. I run the hose out the floor's drain c0ck and let it drain overnight.

.

95_190_PS_PS
02-04-2012, 09:42 PM
I already have the hose going through the boat into a drain pan, and really wanted to drain the oil/water out tonight get it all out before trying to run the engine tomorrow. Hopefully I'll have the energy to start the draining after getting home later on tonight so it will all be out so i can run the engine and hopefully come back here with good news.

Cloaked
02-04-2012, 10:02 PM
I already have the hose going through the boat into a drain pan, and really wanted to drain the oil/water out tonight get it all out before trying to run the engine tomorrow. Hopefully I'll have the energy to start the draining after getting home later on tonight so it will all be out so i can run the engine and hopefully come back here with good news.
I went out and looked at mine. No allen head set screw on it. Just the cap as previously described.

Maybe give a shot with an old phillips head or a star head screw driver to get a bite.. Otherwise, you may be able to find one at the loacl supply store, cut that one off the end of the hose and install a new fitting.

.

95_190_PS_PS
02-05-2012, 08:20 PM
I figured out my problem with draining the oil....I'm definitely a noob when it comes to these boats. I had it in my mind that there was a valve built into the drain plug, when I looked at the end of the hose I found the cap that I was able to open relatively easy and the oil started flowing to the pan. I let it drip out for 8 hours before filling it back up. I just did an engine run with buckets supplying the water. The engine started fine, but as soon as it started I could hear both a faint ticking and knocking from the right side. After about 3 minutes of running, the oil pressure jumped up to 80psi so I shut it down. I checked the oil, and it was just as milky as the oil that I had taken out.

It looks like I'm going to have to start tearing the engine apart to find where the water is getting in. The previous owner did have the heads checked after water was found in the oil. It is my understanding that the ticking and knocking could be either the a bent valve or a bent rod. If the valves look good when I have time to start pulling the engine apart in a couple weeks, then I will have to assume that the problem is a bent rod and a full rebuild will likely be necessary since the engine does have 1700 hrs. When I bought the boat, I had planned on needing to rebuild the engine within 2 years, this is a little sooner than I was hoping for.

At least if I have to rebuild it now, I wont be worrying about the engine failing while I'm out having fun.

mikeg205
02-05-2012, 11:55 PM
Post pictures - on your project... at least you expect it.

95_190_PS_PS
02-06-2012, 12:58 AM
I will definitely post pictures. The last engine rebuild I did was 10 years ago in auto shop class, so I already know that if putting it together is supposed to take x amount of time, I will take at least 8*x doing the rebuild. I sadly have already started looking at some already built lt1 rotating assemblies, 383 ci lt1's seem to be really low priced. I doubt there would be much of a power increase going from 350 to 383 without a cam upgrade and some porting, although I'm sure I don't need any more power than the standard LT1 with the powerslot, especially since I learned to ski behind a 1950's boat with a 70hp outboard and have been skiing behind IO's since then...But I can only imagine how much pull the mastercraft has since its new to me and haven't had it in the water yet. The rebuilt rotating assemblies seem to be more available than a bare block. I don't know how to feel about an increased bore, it seems like the larger bore would bring the cylinders closer to the water jacket, and reduce the service life of the engine. I'll be doing more research and also listening to any recommendations I get from you guys.

mikeg205
02-06-2012, 09:42 AM
Too_tall just had a rebuild here.... you may want to PM for his insight...

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=44049&highlight=1008

oldairboater
02-06-2012, 12:17 PM
I am not a fan of over bored engines for recreation use. Anything bored close to 30 over is my limit and I prefer less material taking from cylinder walls. Ticking noise in your engine can be anything from lifters to damaged valve train. You need to pull the heads anyway to see if you can find your problem. While heads are off you need to look at cylinder walls. You really need to do a compression check and a leak down check in all cylinders unless you just wish to rebuild or change out an engine for fun.

95_190_PS_PS
02-08-2012, 01:14 AM
I don't have enough free time to find an engine rebuild fun just yet. I'm pretty fresh out of the Air Force, working on finishing college up the second time around. I got a citation a couple days ago for parking the boat in front of my house, luckily just a warning from the city code enforcement officer instead of the $100/day fine i was threatened with if I didn't move the boat, so it is now parked at a fairly local storage yard.

Oldairboater, thanks for the recommendations on the compression check/leak run down check recommendation, $30 for the kit seems worth it to me, I'll check the compression before pulling the heads...the previous owner told me that there was water in #4 cylinder, when I turned the engine without spark plugs, I got a lot of rusty water out of #2,4, and 8, which led me to think there was a faulty exhaust manifold or riser on the right side. The previous owner said that he had the heads checked but didn't have any receipts or documentation when I purchased the boat (8 months of the boat sitting around before buying it, he "misplaced" them).

While checking the cylinders with the heads off, I'm going to be needing to rotate the crank to be able to check all cylinders for visible cracks, does anybody have any recommendations on how to rotate the crank by hand with the motor still installed in the boat?

As I said, or probably just implied in my previous post, I'm not so trusting of bored engines. They are still a possibility, but I'm having difficulty finding a new LT1 block. I think I read a while back that the LT1 bock is just a standard small block Chevy (block), and that the only differences were in the bolt ons/coolant flow. Don't quote me on that since I only "think" I remember reading that, and don't fully trust the camaro or corvette form that it most likely came from.

I'm still working on researching, hoping for the best but planning for the worst.