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O2BESOHUGE
01-30-2012, 02:39 PM
From All Your Experience...did You Guys Wet Sand, Go Straight To Rubbing Compound Then Wax Or What?

Thanks Everyone?
Jay

psychobilly
01-30-2012, 03:17 PM
Jay, I reckon it depends on how bad it is... Mine was rough looking. The red stripe was pink... I did the rubbing compound method and I'm happy. I did 3 different liquids, then a forth was just wax.

O2BESOHUGE
01-30-2012, 03:37 PM
Well Its My Cousins Boat...and Its Pretty Bad! Im Just HelPing Him. I Just Got Finished With His Teak Deck AND IT TURNED OUT PRETTY NICE!

psychobilly
01-30-2012, 03:43 PM
Well the way I look at it is every feller that has a gelcoat hull should have a variable speed grinder and pads. Try out a test spot with the 3M Heavy compound and see if it brings it back. Even if you have to wetsand and I hope ya don't, you will still need that VSG to finish off the project IMO. There's some good stuff in here on what you need and how to go about doing it. That's where I found out how to do it and I'm glad I didn't waste my time wet sanding...

Nice Teak. ;-)

BTW: My '91 240SC has the same colors as this boat.

O2BESOHUGE
01-30-2012, 03:46 PM
Thanks Billy!

mwg
01-30-2012, 04:04 PM
3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material applied using a polisher and pad will go along way to refinish the gelcoat.
Finish it off with 3M Finesse It II and several coats of wax. If the Imperial Compound doesn't restore the shine you will need to wetsand and then use the Imperial compound

Good Luck

TRBenj
01-30-2012, 04:08 PM
I would consider the Imperial compound to be an "intermediate" compound. With that much oxidation, you'll need to be more aggressive- Super Duty, at a minimum... most likely wetsanding will be required.

O2BESOHUGE
01-30-2012, 04:37 PM
What Grit To Begin With Wet Sanding? 600?

Thanks Guys!

sand2snow22
01-30-2012, 04:52 PM
What Grit To Begin With Wet Sanding? 600?

Thanks Guys!

2500 for oxidation. 600 is for scratches. This is my routine. Wetsand 2500, then this:

http://www.meguiars.com/en/professional/products/m10532-ultra-cut-compound-32-oz/

Then hand wax. She will look as good as new. The mequiars acts like a compound and a polish!!!

psychobilly
01-30-2012, 08:50 PM
Like I said before, my boat is the same color and the oxidation looks to be very similar. I didn't have to wet sand. You will be surprised on how much grit is in that 3M heavy duty compound.

sand2snow22
01-31-2012, 01:27 AM
Like I said before, my boat is the same color and the oxidation looks to be very similar. I didn't have to wet sand. You will be surprised on how much grit is in that 3M heavy duty compound.

True, but you did 4 steps. My method is less time with 3 :D

psychobilly
01-31-2012, 06:47 AM
True, but you did 4 steps. My method is less time with 3 :D
Ya can't argue with that ;-)

ggroller
01-31-2012, 08:28 AM
I don't think wet sanding is necessary at all. I had an '88 Chaparral that was worse than that. It looked like new after I hit it with 3M restorer, wax, and finesse.

mwg
01-31-2012, 09:00 AM
I would consider the Imperial compound to be an "intermediate" compound. With that much oxidation, you'll need to be more aggressive- Super Duty, at a minimum... most likely wetsanding will be required.

Yeah I agree but I have had success with the Imperial Compound on oxidation as well removing sanding marks down to 800 grit.. I would start with Imperial compound first before something more aggressive... just my $.02

Mike

BrianM
01-31-2012, 09:19 AM
I would start with 3M Super Duty Compound with a high quality wool pad and a circular polisher. If one application doesn't get the results you want try a second application with it. This stuff cuts some serious oxidation. The 85 I restored was that bad and I only used the compound.

If you are not getting enough cut then try 1000 grit wet. Then compound. For scratches use 600 wet then the 1000 then compound.

Follow the compound with the Finesse It II then a couple of coats of wax.

You can see the results I got with the process here.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=19557&highlight=Restoration

shepherd
01-31-2012, 09:40 AM
My old boat was also as bad as that one. A high speed circular polisher and one or two applications with rubbing compound, followed by a good wax, brought the gel back to almost-new condition. Try that first before breaking out the sandpaper. :twocents:

O2BESOHUGE
01-31-2012, 09:53 AM
Did You Guys Cover The Rub Rail With Masking Tape? Will The Wool Pad Hurt It?

BrianM
01-31-2012, 10:15 AM
I didn't. You can compound right up to it without much effort. Little compound wont hurt it. I also compounded right over the decals. I was careful to only go over the decals with very light pressure just to be sure but it came out great.

Millertime
01-31-2012, 10:20 AM
The decals you went right over we're they the raised domed ones, would the compound hurt those. Like on a 08 x2, the mastercraft decal down the side.

FrankSchwab
01-31-2012, 11:46 PM
Going over the decals on mine wasn't such a great idea - it removed parts of the paint on the lettering.

TRBenj
02-01-2012, 08:59 AM
Yeah I agree but I have had success with the Imperial Compound on oxidation as well removing sanding marks down to 800 grit.. I would start with Imperial compound first before something more aggressive... just my $.02

Mike
You may want to look closer. Imperial will not remove 800 grit scratches quickly or easily, thats for sure. Super Duty can remove 1000 grit per the bottle, but I have started going to 1200 grit to make sure the scratches get removed.

I do agree that you want to start with the least aggressive method possible... as you will be doing every single step up to polish and wax regardless. Less work = better.

Based on the picture, I just dont think Imperial will cut it- and I dont think Super Duty will quite do it, either.

Thrall
02-01-2012, 12:07 PM
I would start with 3M Super Duty Compound with a high quality wool pad and a circular polisher. If one application doesn't get the results you want try a second application with it. This stuff cuts some serious oxidation. The 85 I restored was that bad and I only used the compound.

If you are not getting enough cut then try 1000 grit wet. Then compound. For scratches use 600 wet then the 1000 then compound.

Follow the compound with the Finesse It II then a couple of coats of wax.

You can see the results I got with the process here.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=19557&highlight=Restoration

Like a broken record!:D
Brian, your quote should be a sticky on this forum.

psychobilly
02-01-2012, 12:49 PM
Like a broken record!:D
Brian, your quote should be a sticky on this forum.

These discussions are get'n ta be just as bad as an OIL thread! LMAO

+1 on BrianM's thread Pics, tell the story....

BrianM
02-01-2012, 02:01 PM
Don't think I would try and compound over domed letters. The ones I compounded over were the standard flat decals. I figured I didn't have anything to lose. Really no way to do it unless you either remove them or compound over them. I figured giving it a shot going over was worth it and it worked fine. As I said I used really no pressure on the decals at all to try and avoid problems.

-V-
02-01-2012, 10:37 PM
These discussions are get'n ta be just as bad as an OIL thread! LMAO

+1 on BrianM's thread Pics, tell the story....

so what kind of oil is the best........j/k:D