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Lumbergh
01-27-2012, 11:50 PM
Does anyone have any good pics of how they mounted their amp(s) in the front of a closed bow boat?

I have some ideas on what to do and how to do it, but looking for some history from someone who has done theirs in the past.

Pictures of your setup would be sweet.

TIA!

Cloaked
01-28-2012, 07:55 AM
Does anyone have any good pics of how they mounted their amp(s) in the front of a closed bow boat?

I have some ideas on what to do and how to do it, but looking for some history from someone who has done theirs in the past.

Pictures of your setup would be sweet.

TIA!I have been on vacation and you're still at it? :D

The 91 you have is similar to the 93 I have. I am installing an amp as well and the kick panel (next yo the driver's left lag) is about worthless. I took it out and used it for a template to cut a piece of 3/4" plyboard for a sturdy mounting board. Coated it with epoxy resin and used the same carpet that peeled right off of the poly-plastic piece that was there. Works like a champ, a tight fit if you don't cut it perfectly like the template, but serves very well. From there?.... four screws to mount the amp and wiring for other accessories. I did use a one inch L-shaped brace (common hardware) for the front of the board to secure it in place. The floor on top of the hull will accommodate a direct wood screw right into the flooring. Done deal.

Looking back, a 1/2" thick board would work better.

.

81SNS
01-28-2012, 10:56 AM
On my 81 I formed some aluminum brackets and hung it under the dash

Patrick Hardy
01-28-2012, 04:25 PM
The 91 you have is similar to the 93 I have. I am installing an amp as well and the kick panel (next yo the driver's left lag) is about worthless. I took it out and used it for a template to cut a piece of 3/4" plyboard for a sturdy mounting board. Coated it with epoxy resin and used the same carpet that peeled right off of the poly-plastic piece that was there. Works like a champ,
Looking back, a 1/2" thick board would work better.

.

I do not know about "worthless", but replacing it with a 1/2" to 3/4" coated board is a good idea. I have used the original kick panel in my boat for this application for 15 years now and it has lasted great. Here is pictures of my system.
Patrick

Jeff d
01-28-2012, 05:28 PM
I picked up a large plastic commercial cutting board at Sam's Club for $10 that was big enough to mount 2 class D amps on. I removed the carpet and glued the cutting board to the fiberglass. Then I glued the carpet back over it.

http://m.samsclub.com/catalog/product/126035

Lumbergh
01-28-2012, 07:34 PM
Thanks for the pics, this is what I am looking for!

agarabaghi
01-30-2012, 08:10 AM
what are those clamps holding the wires down?

Jeff d
01-30-2012, 08:19 AM
what are those clamps holding the wires down?

I don't remember exactly what those are called (something like "wire clamps") but you can get them at the hardware store, home depot, etc. They come in plastic or metal with a rubber insolator and are available in different sizes.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
01-30-2012, 08:25 AM
They are called adel clamps.

rspiecha
01-30-2012, 11:09 AM
Here is a link to some picture of my amp install in a Maristar 210VRS.

JL Amps install pictures (http://www.memphiszclub.com/graphics/Maristar210/)

agarabaghi
01-30-2012, 12:53 PM
Do you think 1/4 adel clamps will work with 4 gauge insulated wire?

-V-
01-30-2012, 12:56 PM
Here is a link to some picture of my amp install in a Maristar 210VRS.

JL Amps install pictures (http://www.memphiszclub.com/graphics/Maristar210/)

thats where I have my amp as well, what kind of speaker set up do you have for your subs? and do you have pics? Mine are enclosed Kicker subs in the kicker boxes and the PO put them on each side of the engine so you can't really hear it unless you raise the back hatch a bit. I do not like that one bit and I was looking to relocate them.

agarabaghi
01-30-2012, 01:07 PM
Bow filler seems to be the loudest from all the setups I have tried.

Ive had various setups and this is my opinion on them:

1 infinite baffle sub: Not loud at all, a lot of storage + OEM look
2 subs (1 infinite baffle, 1 under passenger hatch): Loud but a lot of vibrating due to the sub being in an enclosed compartment. Got loud when hatch was opened.
2 subs (1 in bow filler area, 1 in compartment): Very loud, but once again no storage and sub in compartment got muffled when the hatch was closed.
1 sub (1 in bowfiller): Loudest and storage, but also a much higher end sub with 2x the power than 2 sub setup.

j.mccreight@hotmail.com
01-30-2012, 01:13 PM
Do you think 1/4 adel clamps will work with 4 gauge insulated wire?

4 awg is .20" depending on the insulation thickness you might have to go with 3/8"

agarabaghi
01-30-2012, 01:16 PM
So those numbers are for just the wire, not the insulation?

rspiecha
01-30-2012, 02:46 PM
I have a singe sub in the stock location by the driver feet. I have since upgraded the e2150 to a M4300 to power the tower speakers. The M6450 powers the single sub and cabin speakers.

Rob

Lumbergh
01-30-2012, 06:30 PM
@Jeff D

What kind of adhesive did you use to mount plastic board to fiberglass of hull?

Any concerns about thickness of amp fastener to board (going through and touching / poking hull)?

I was thinking that sounds like a good idea, but I might use some sort of isolation mount / stud setup to mount a board to. I like the idea of not using a wood amp board and the long term rot issues that risks.

I found this somewhere in another boat forum and thought it seems fairly slick.

east tx skier
01-30-2012, 08:54 PM
Give epoxy putty a try. It's super easy to work with and holds like nobody's business. I have speaker pods mounted to my hull with it. I have a board mounted to the hull that I wish I could remove, but cannot.

agarabaghi
01-30-2012, 09:04 PM
nothing will stick to starboard... i glassed it on.