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View Full Version : Ignition switch/ACC position for radio


Jeff d
01-12-2012, 04:00 PM
I've got an '00 Maristar 230 VRS. I've had the occasional issue in the past with my ignition switch sticking in the crank position. It has never happened when I drive, only for friends. They end up running the starter for a really long time until I notice the sound and go click the key back to the "ON" position.

My other complaint about the ignition switch is that you can't go straight into ACC mode to keep the radio on when switching riders and what not. It kills power to the accessories regardless of how fast you click int into the ACC position (Past off to the left). So, the radio and amp turns off then comes back on.

Obviously I could grab any similar ignition switch to address the first issue but I'd prefer one with the "ACC" position to the right of "OFF" or at least one that could be clicked quickly past "OFF" to "ACC" without killing power to the accessories (The way it works on my truck).

Does anyone have a recommendation on a switch that would behave this way? If I can't find one like that I may just wire the "ignition" power wire from my radio to a spare switch on the dash and control it manually.

Thanks,
Jeff

JRW160
01-12-2012, 08:37 PM
My 2003 does the same thing and I find it pretty annoying that the music cuts off momentarily when you go to acc. My buddy's 2007 does not do that even though acc is still to the left. I'm not sure what they changed, but maybe a newer ignition switch would fix it.

Jeff d
01-12-2012, 10:32 PM
I played with it tonight and noticed that I could go from run/on to acc without interrupting the radio but when I go from acc to run/on it interrupts power long enough that the radio has to "reboot".

I might try a new switch since I kinda need one anyway. If that doesn't take care of it I wonder if I could put a small capacitor on the ignition switched lead to the radio that would bridge the gap between acc and run/on.

Cloaked
01-12-2012, 10:42 PM
......... If that doesn't take care of it I wonder if I could put a small capacitor on the ignition switched lead to the radio that would bridge the gap between acc and run/on.Yes. Look in some of the stereo threads and you'll see the very setup for which you are looking.

JRW160
01-12-2012, 11:05 PM
Yes. Look in some of the stereo threads and you'll see the very setup for which you are looking.

If you find it, please post a link.

JRW160
01-26-2012, 09:58 PM
I've been searching, but I can't find anywhere it is explained how to hook up the capacitor to the ignition switch to keep the stereo from turning off when switching from on to acc. Anyone know where I can find some info?

Jeff d
01-26-2012, 10:32 PM
I found this:
http://blog.iharder.net/2010/07/29/radio-how-to-keep-your-radio-on-when-you-start-your-car/

But it looks like a bit more trouble than it's worth. He doesn't have specific part numbers for some of the components either so it may take some trial and error.

I'm considering just connecting my radio to constant power since it appears to turn completely off when the power button is held (i.e. no clock, lit LEDs, or anything on the display). This way I'd just turn the radio on and off manually. I might try to get my hands on an ammeter to see if it really draws the same amount of power when powered off vs. when it doesn't have power from the ignition switch.

JRW160
01-26-2012, 10:46 PM
That does look like a lot of trouble. I guess I could just bypass my head unit altogether. Now that I think about it, the only thing it is used for is the remote turn on for the amps. I think I could just wire the amps to a switch and then everything should stay on regardless of the ignition position.

waterlogged882
01-27-2012, 06:04 PM
Yes. Look in some of the stereo threads and you'll see the very setup for which you are looking.

If you find it, please post a link.http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=28992

Scroll and read this thread.

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Jeff d
01-27-2012, 10:28 PM
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=28992

Scroll and read this thread.

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I didn't read every word in the thread so maybe I missed it. I see where he's using a stiffening capacitor for his amps but that wouldn't keep the radio on when moving the key from "ACC" to "Run".

Jeff d
01-27-2012, 10:45 PM
I guess I could just bypass my head unit altogether.
If you're referring to connecting an MP3 player straight to the RCA inputs on your amp it's not really optimal. The voltage of the headphone jacks on iPods and what not are pretty low compared to what your head unit is producing. Combine that with the fact that the impedance on the amp's RCA inputs is far greater than the headphones that it would normally drive and you'll be having to crank the gain much higher on the amp than you would have with the head unit's signal. You will also loose fade, balance and subwoofer level controls.

If you want to get rid of your head unit you should probably replace it with a $50 equalizer and preferably feed it from a constant "line out" (i.e. from the dock port on an iPod/Phone) instead of the headphone jack. In addition to acting as a pre-amp for the music player you will retain control of fade, balance, sub level, etc.


I think I could just wire the amps to a switch and then everything should stay on regardless of the ignition position.
This works. I used to have the amp that fed my tower speakers manually switched like this for when I didn't want them on.

JRW160
01-27-2012, 11:52 PM
I read through the whole thread and he doesn't do anything with the acc switch.

I wired my amp turn ons to a spare acc switch on the dash tonight. Seems to work fine for turning them on. Now I have a ground loop issue to chase down.

mtajpa
01-28-2012, 02:36 AM
Ran a dedicated positive and negative cable from my stereo to battery via a spare acc switch and solved my problems.