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View Full Version : Newbie--1982 Stars and Stripes Restoration


wishart
01-09-2012, 01:44 AM
My first post on the site, though I been checking out team talk for a couple months since I picked up my next project up off Craigs list...and it's time to get to work!!

I have been skiing behind and loving my 1962 Corsair 15' vintage circle racer v-drive for 20 yrs now. Being into vintage boats, bikes and cars, etc., I told myself that the only way I would step it up to a "modern" competition ski boat is if I locate a stars and stripes Mastercraft...well.....I found it.....

Great Site.

As I get into this sucker...I might have a few questions for you guys...hope guys don't mind lending a hand.

Picked up this 1982 with a siezed engine, but for a 30 year old boat...in pretty damn good shape!!, Trailer isn't half bad either....

Not too hot on the brown gel coat, so I may very well be getting into some paint work.

Since purchasing the boat a few months ago, I have a rebuilt engine ready to go....just need to transfer the marine parts off the old engine (will be working this part of the project this week)

I Removed all the interior, engine, gas tank. After further inspection, I have uncovered a few issues....
-1- Floor is "spongy" under gas tank area. At first glance, stringers look ok, but we will have to see after further inspection---Get ready for floor replacement photos.

-2- I noticed that when wiggling the rudder had some excessive movement left and right while holding the steering wheel. I traced the problem to slop in the bracket that holds the steering cable inplace before it attaches to the rudder assembly (see attached photo) Anyone know where to source a replacement/updated bracket?

-3- Question: I was talking to a fellow who mentioned that this engine may have what he called a "reverse water pump". I'm not quite sure about this. My impression was that standard marine waterpump is the right one...

Keep tuned in for pictures of the restoration process....
Here are some pictures....enjoy...(I hope I figured out how to attach them...if not I will try again)

thanks... Bill Wishart

liledgy
01-09-2012, 03:14 AM
Your boat looks like its in nice shape. It has some traits of an 83. The mirrors on most 82's folded down into the glove box. It also looks like you have access to the bow from the passenger seat, did the seat back have a hinge on it to slide skis under the bow. The 82's had an open bow but you had to access it from the drivers area.
Try discount inboard marine for the steering cable parts.

psychobilly
01-09-2012, 06:50 AM
Looks good bud but please don't paint until you have atleast brought the gel coat back to life. There are several threads here you can search on how to go about this. It's WAY cheaper than painting and the rewards are unreal!!!!!

Get that motor going!!!

Lumbergh
01-09-2012, 11:13 AM
Sweet old ride.

Looks like you are fully equipped to make that classic SS sing again.

PS - What kind of race car is that behind your SS? Looks german, like maybe an older 190 or maybe E30.

thatsmrmastercraft
01-09-2012, 11:20 AM
Welcome to Team Talk. Great looking project. Gotta love craigslist.........that's where I found my '77. As liledgy said, Discount Inboard Marine is a great source for many of the parts you might need for your boat, as well as a great place for a little advice too. Have them send you a catalog - it is a great resource.

http://www.skidim.com/

tph
01-09-2012, 12:39 PM
Your boat looks like its in nice shape. It has some traits of an 83. The mirrors on most 82's folded down into the glove box. It also looks like you have access to the bow from the passenger seat, did the seat back have a hinge on it to slide skis under the bow. The 82's had an open bow but you had to access it from the drivers area.
Try discount inboard marine for the steering cable parts.

It does look a little different. The steering wheel looks '82, the dash is like an '83, the mirror looks like pre '82, the bow storage looks '83 and later and it doesn't appear to have a metalflake stripe. (more like an '84 or '85)

jraben8
01-09-2012, 01:11 PM
Yep, I was guessing 84-85 with the lack of flake and that windshield. What are the last 2 digits in the SN on the back?

wishart
01-09-2012, 03:13 PM
Thanks for the Skidim tip...I placed a big order today to replace all engine hoses, pumps, worn steering components, etc.

Progress report: Removing marine parts from old engine...

Here is a few more images to figure out exactly what year the boat is. I am pretty sure it's a 1982....Date code on gas tank is sept 1981, and similar date on the heater core.

Here are a few more detail shots of dash, etc. to help determine year...Maybe a late production 1982/ early 1983.

The stripe on the boat is brown....not metelflake brown.

I think someone has added a 3rd speedo on the engine cover at some point for the observer to see how fast they are going....has a 3rd sender unit off the back of the boat also..

Lumbergh: Race car is indeed a 1988 Mercedes 190e set up like a DTM car. (german race style).

wishart
01-09-2012, 03:17 PM
sorry...here are the pictures.....

ski_king
01-09-2012, 03:29 PM
Welcome to TT!

I also own an 82, which I bought new in the summer of 82.

Based on your photos (and HIN number), I beiive your boat is an early 82.

Later in the 82 production run, they switched to the contoured motor box and fold into the dash mirror. They also produced 82's with the rounded windshield. Metal flake stripes were an option, howeve most of the boats had this option. It is a rare find to find one without the metal flake stripe!

Also, your boat was most likely used in tournaments at one time, the third speedometer for the judge is the clue. I believe it was a requirement for a barefoot tournament boat.

03geetee
01-09-2012, 06:25 PM
Cool boat I LOVE THAT TRAILER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good luck on the restore Team Talk is awesome for this.

JTR

liledgy
01-09-2012, 06:42 PM
Based on your photos (and HIN number), I beiive your boat is an early 82.

Must be. Defiantly not a 84 or 85 with that dash. Looks like someone cut an access hole behind the passenger seat (good idea). I can't remember if my 82 came with a drink holder, my old 83 did. Ski king? The hole next to the mirror was probably added to. I also. Can't remember when they started gelcoating the bilge area. I don't think my 83 had it either. Must've been in 84

mikeg205
01-09-2012, 06:57 PM
nice...and welcome... love the shop as well...

03geetee
01-10-2012, 01:22 AM
My 83 has the drink holder and gel in the bilge. Small glove box area right under the mirror, but the mirror does not fold into it. Everything else on his boat looks very similar to my 83.

JTR

wishart
01-12-2012, 12:17 AM
Thanks for the help with this project. The old engine is all stripped down, will start building up the new engine tomorrow.

Here is a few detail shots of the trailer that came with the boat. It is a "Cooks" custom trailer. Cooks was a well known for their custom Hot Boat trailers. Based in Sacramento California. They are no longer around.

This trailer has a manufacture date of 1985, so I am assuming shortly after this boat was new, origional owner must have upgraded to this trailer. The mastercraft doesn't fit on the trailer quite right, so a few fairly easy modifications must be made.....

If anyone is wondering....I scored this boat, and trailer (remember boat had a bad engine) for $1500.00 of local craigs list.......as the old saying goes....."One man's junk....is another man's Treasure"

Stay tuned....

thatsmrmastercraft
01-12-2012, 12:25 AM
Gotta love Craigslist. I traded an I/O for my '77. I only had $900 into the I/O.

Lumbergh
01-12-2012, 10:36 AM
If anyone is wondering....I scored this boat, and trailer (remember boat had a bad engine) for $1500.00 of local craigs list.......as the old saying goes....."One man's junk....is another man's Treasure"

Stay tuned....

http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr66/Lumbergh556/napdynamite.jpg

wishart
02-06-2012, 04:56 AM
Been working the last couple weeks on finishing up the engine. Turned out pretty good. Previous owner tried to get it running by throwing a bunch of expensive parts at it...but they failed to notice that the old engine was siezed up!!! Was able to reuse the new marine mallory distributor, new marine holley carb, new marine alternator and starter, spark plug wires, and spark plugs. My buddies at K&N helped out with the new "Marine" k&N air filter...hopeing it's uscg approved...they seemed to think so...


Next part of the project....remove floors (rotted under gas tank area), and further inspect the stringers...stay tuned...

wishart
02-06-2012, 05:13 AM
Inspected stringers this week also. Look to be solid...except where the engine mounts attach with the large lag bolts!!! One side is worse than the other...Wood is pretty damp, and the boat hasn't been in the water for 2 yrs!!! Fiberglass has delaminated from the other stringer on the engine side for about 12 inches...stringer wet.

so....what next????

Replace stringers?

heard of something called "rot doctor" which I think is some sort of epoxy that you build up the rotted out areas...it hardens...then you can redrill/anchor your lag bolts back into the repaired area. (anyone use this stuff)

I don't think replacing the stringers will be very difficult...

Been researcing on the site with regards to the stringer replacement/floor replacement...lots of good information on different methods and products.

Question....how much epoxy resin do you think it is going to take for the repairs....taking into consideraton coating/sealing plywood for new floors? How much fiberglass cloth to buy??


Noticed also that there is a void of "foam" towards the back of the boat. It was damp in this area when I removed the floor. It looks like when they poured the foam in between the stringers when building the boat, it didn't flow all the way back before it started to harden. Thinking of filling this area with foam. Don't think it will harm anything.

SkiDog
02-06-2012, 07:56 AM
Been working the last couple weeks on finishing up the engine. Turned out pretty good. Previous owner tried to get it running by throwing a bunch of expensive parts at it...but they failed to notice that the old engine was siezed up!!! Was able to reuse the new marine mallory distributor, new marine holley carb, new marine alternator and starter, spark plug wires, and spark plugs. My buddies at K&N helped out with the new "Marine" k&N air filter...hopeing it's uscg approved...they seemed to think so...


Next part of the project....remove floors (rotted under gas tank area), and further inspect the stringers...stay tuned...

Motor looks awesome. I can't tell from the pics, but it would look good to paint the letting on the side of the manifolds the same color blue, especially if it say's Mastercraft Marine on it.:cool:

liledgy
02-06-2012, 09:54 AM
You definitely need new stringers. Correct craft fan has by far the most topics on stringer replacement because of rot. You will find a wealth of knowledge. Some of the people went with douglas fir, others with a composite called coosa. I don't know which is better, but I think the resale would be much, much better when you tell the prospective buyer you have composite stringers. The posters on correct craft fan are knowledgeable, friendly and REALLY want to keep the their direct drive boats running and looking new.

gweaver
02-06-2012, 04:52 PM
I know absolutely nothing about stringers and their replacement, but it makes me wonder if it would be possible to use something like Trex or some other 'plastic' lumber. It would sure take care of the rot issue.
Thoughts?
G

thatsmrmastercraft
02-06-2012, 04:55 PM
I know absolutely nothing about stringers and their replacement, but it makes me wonder if it would be possible to use something like Trex or some other 'plastic' lumber. It would sure take care of the rot issue.
Thoughts?
G

I don't think Trex is stiff enough to get the job done but there may well be some composite non-wood alternative. I could be the perfect answer.

americanskierJim
02-06-2012, 08:01 PM
Wonderful find looks like a great project to bring back to life. I like the trailer it's killer. If you need help feel free to ask I be glad to help u out along with all are fellow MC owners. Keep us posted on you'r progress.

tph
02-06-2012, 08:58 PM
I know absolutely nothing about stringers and their replacement, but it makes me wonder if it would be possible to use something like Trex or some other 'plastic' lumber. It would sure take care of the rot issue.
Thoughts?
G

Trex doesn't have much structural strength IMO. Read this thread from page 7 on to see what one member did instead of replacing the wood stringers:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=35863

Storm34
02-07-2012, 04:41 PM
I'd do some reading on stringers. Coosa is a good option is you want to go composite but it's pricey. Otherwise, CCFan has some great threads on a complete stringer job. After seeing the above picture, I'd say you need to follow the same.

wishart
02-08-2012, 01:16 AM
Mondays progress:

Finally got all the floor and foam removed from the hull today. Found another section of the stringer that is completly rotted through, and the stringers were quite damp under the seemingly good looking fiberglass laminate.

Something else I discovered....At first glance, the foam looked "dry". I had my suspcions, that it the area was indeed dry, so I tore out some of the foam down to the hull, and decovered that it was quite wet between the foam and hull. At this point, I decided to remove all the foam to dry the area out!

At this point, the decision has been made to do it right and replace the stringgers. i don't think it is going to be that tough at this point....now that everything has been removed.

Went to the local lumber yard and picked up (2) 2x8x20 Duglas Fir beams for new stringers. Picked the straightest ones i could. Pretty straight...one better than the other...What do you think...run them over a "jointer" to make the top edge perfectly straight? Bottom edge will be cut anyway to match the contour of the boat.


Started to modify trailer today so the boat will fit properly today also.

Storm34
02-08-2012, 12:14 PM
Nice work! You'll be much happier in the long run when you know you have a completely rebuilt boat.

Have you started to order glass materials? I see you're located out west but I found it was much more cost effective to buy from US Composites...and don't be fooled, go with Epoxy.

Lumbergh
02-08-2012, 06:34 PM
Thank you for saving that boat.

Good to see people do things right.

Slinkyredfoot
02-08-2012, 07:00 PM
Thank you for saving that boat.

Good to see people do things right.

No kidding, these older boats in my opinion are worth the labor of love. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

liledgy
02-08-2012, 09:02 PM
Just from reading other stringer threads, most of the people try to save as much of the stringer as they can when removing t to use as a template. Not sure if the mastercraft stringers were perfectly square like a 2x. Correct crafts were tapered to te hull. Some of the rebuilds eliminated the foam to prevent it from soaking the stringers again if the glass is ever compromised. Now would be a good time to retro fit your platform bolts/lags. Maybe put removable brackets on.

Cloaked
02-08-2012, 09:24 PM
Mondays progress:

Finally got all the floor and foam removed from the hull today. Found another section of the stringer that is completly rotted through, and the stringers were quite damp under the seemingly good looking fiberglass laminate.

Something else I discovered....At first glance, the foam looked "dry". I had my suspcions, that it the area was indeed dry, so I tore out some of the foam down to the hull, and decovered that it was quite wet between the foam and hull. At this point, I decided to remove all the foam to dry the area out!
At this point, the decision has been made to do it right and replace the stringgers. i don't think it is going to be that tough at this point....now that everything has been removed.
Went to the local lumber yard and picked up (2) 2x8x20 Duglas Fir beams for new stringers. Picked the straightest ones i could. Pretty straight...one better than the other...What do you think...run them over a "jointer" to make the top edge perfectly straight? Bottom edge will be cut anyway to match the contour of the boat.
Started to modify trailer today so the boat will fit properly today also.All of these old boats have saturated or soaked foam if they have been in the water... :D I have drained several when replacing platform braces.


Jeremy79 did a 79 hull from the bare hull out. His thread is here somewhere (unless the smart people lost it) and Jeremy stripped out everything, replacing the entire stringer(s). His challenge was fitting the board to the hull but he took his time and hand cut it to fit right to the surface and then epoxied it to the hull (both stringers). He also honed the top edge before it went in (as suggested). Then he put in reinforcment for the engine mounts as is done in the 83 - 85 models. From there the rest is easy. No need for foam to be placed back into the under-floor area. Coat the entire stringer(s) in epoxy resin and fiber cloth if you so choose. Anything along those lines to waterproof it after it dries in place. The epoxy will serve well for placing the stringers. I would also put a cross brace between the stringers just under where the passenger seat is located, however the pylon mounting brace will serve as the same purpose.

As suggested, install the platform mounting brackets with thru-bolts instead of the lag screws. Once you button up this repair, you should have very little water anywhere except in the center hull (typically where a packing leaks a little, etc). Seal the deck to the hull with new rivets and silicone sealant.

Also no better time to replace all of the thru-hull fittings (rudder, shaft log, etc.) and remove and re-seal the tracking fins as well. Obviously, you're at the point of an entire rebuild so take advantage of the ease of access to all of the repair or replace points.

.

wishart
02-08-2012, 11:01 PM
Thanks for the tips...going to attempt to remove at least one stringer tomorrow. I am interested to see how hard it is going to be to remove the bonding between the bottom of the stringer and hull.

Ordered a 6gallon "kit" of epoxy/hardener and fiberglass cloth in 4" and 12" from Aeromarine today. I have no idea how much material this job is going to take, but there is some surface area involved coating both sides of the new decking.

What do you think....just use the epoxy/hardener to coat the new decking, or also encorporate a layer of cloth material over the entire top of the new plywood surface. The origional plywood almost looks like it has a slight fiberous texture to it rather than just being coated with the resin. I know when building some boats (especially hot boats like Sangers), they used something called a "chop gun" that actually sprayed the fiberous material onto the surface they were coating. Maybe a method like this was used to cover the origional decking. From what I have seen from other floor rebuilds on the site, it appears that just coating your deck and sides with the resins is sufficient enough.

liledgy
02-09-2012, 09:31 AM
Another thing I read was to make sure the moisture content is below 10%? 7% is better. It could of been .7%, not 7.

Bruce Carr
02-09-2012, 01:02 PM
Good call on the Aeromarine epoxy resin. That stuff will bond well to old substrates, it is easy to work with and does not have a strong odor so you can use it indoors without extraordinary ventalation issues. I have no affilation with Aeromarine but i have used their resin on a couple of projects.

When bonding the new spars to the hull, be sure and clean the old glass as best you can to get the oils off of it, then rough it up with 40-60 grit sandpaper before you lay the glass cloth and resin over the stringers and onto the hull. Clean it up before you start sanding because you can easily transfer the oils and dirt into your bond line during the sanding process. Apply a generous coat of resin to all surfaces of your new plywwod deck and let it cure a day or so before you install it in the boat. This will seal the wood and provide for good adhesion with the spars. After you get the deck installed, lay up two plies of fiberglass cloth over the deck going up the sides of the boat and down the inboard sides of the stringers 3 -4 inches. Enjoy

liledgy
02-09-2012, 03:07 PM
The moisture content I was referring to the Douglas fir.

jhall0711
02-09-2012, 06:08 PM
I did complete stringer and floor replacement in a Supra; so I know about where your at. As stated, best to spoxy the stringers to the floor first; I used dura-glass. As far as how much resin/epoxy I used; roughly 4 gallons and some change. I reinforced mat at engine mounts and put mat and epoxy over the entire floor to the sides of the boat for rigidity. There is no need to replace any foam that comes out but make sure you take out all that is wet; do not leave moisture in it. As far as moisture in wood; make sure you get kiln dried wood; no matter what kind. Treated lumber has moisture in it and if you then put epoxy all around it you trap that moisture in.

If yo have more questions I will try to keep an eye out to answer. I attached a few pictures that show how once I glassed the stringers in I then laid the floor and glassed all the way down into the bilge... Some say over kill... but the boat was very strong after.

wishart
02-09-2012, 11:52 PM
Your repair turned out really nice! Thanks for the tips.


Bruce: I was the one who contacted you last week about your fiberglass repairs that you had for sale (you had already sold them). I took your suggestion and bought the same materials from Aeromarine that you were selling. Thanks.

I was able to remove one of the stringers today. I am glad that I went this far for the repair! When trying to determine the extent of the stringer damage while inspecting the stringer with the floor and foam still in the boat, it didn't really look all that bad. Now that the stringer is out, and laying on the shop floor....that thing is wasted!!! Completly water logged from front to back, and a 8" section towards the front is non-existent....completly rotted!

I'm not suprised, these boats are known to have stringer issues...It is afterall a 30yr old boat! When purchasing this boat, I had my suspesions that I would get into some structual repair....and as sick as this may sound...looking forward to it!

I was suprised to see that the stringer was NOT bonded to the hull. It was held in place with a "fillet" of material along the sides and the fiberglass cloth. I cut all that loose with a die grinder/4"cutting blade, and lifted the baby out!

Ran a industrial sander over the hull to knock down the stringer area. Ready to shape new stringer, and reglass into the hull.

I have noticed that now that the stringer and floor has been removed the boat has become quite unstable...you can push on the side of the boat and you can tell it's a little loosey goosie! I think it might be a good idea to replace one stringer at a time!

wishart
02-09-2012, 11:55 PM
today's progress pic.

03geetee
02-10-2012, 09:09 AM
Great work so far!

JTR

thatsmrmastercraft
02-10-2012, 10:24 AM
One can certainly see things have taken a turn in the right direction. I am watching closely as I will be doing this job one day. My stringers are still rock solid, as are my platform mounts, but it is only a matter of how long.

DemolitionMan
02-10-2012, 11:37 AM
It is looking good.

Lumbergh
02-10-2012, 07:29 PM
Enjoying watching this progress. Keep the pics and reports coming.

curtish
02-10-2012, 09:48 PM
Love these restoration threads. Someday I'll have time for one of these projects.

wishart
02-12-2012, 02:02 AM
I have removed one of the stringers from the boat. Ready to pull a pattern off it for the new stringer. You can see how water damaged it has become. the fiberglass laminate that it was incased in just pealed right off...this was actually a good thing....I can make a more accurate pattern off the raw stringer.

Also I modified the trailer so the boat will fit properly.

next week: pattern making 101. (I think I have a good method to transfer the contour of the hull to the new beam)...we will see....

The fiberglass supplies arrived from Areomarine yesterday also...

waterlogged882
02-12-2012, 07:36 AM
the fiberglass laminate that it was incased in just pealed right off...this was actually a good thing....I can make a more accurate pattern off the raw stringer.

..Wooden stringers. confirmed

Nice work on the trailer... Nice looking beads from what I can tell in the pictures...


Wish I had access to a shop like that...

.

thatsmrmastercraft
02-12-2012, 12:38 PM
Nice work on the trailer. That stringer has definitely earned it's retirement.

liledgy
02-12-2012, 07:48 PM
Maybe I'm way off base here but, I have not ever read of another "82" with rotten stringers (not that they don't exist, obviously). My buddy had a 80 slot that needed some stringer work, but have not read any other threads with 1980's stars and stripes with rotten stringers. Maybe it was a matter of time and their finally showing their age ( I hope not). Or yours just had a isolated delamination. I have read of a few in the 1970's range with some rot, but very few.

jhall0711
02-12-2012, 08:44 PM
Maybe I'm way off base here but, I have not ever read of another "82" with rotten stringers (not that they don't exist, obviously). My buddy had a 80 slot that needed some stringer work, but have not read any other threads with 1980's stars and stripes with rotten stringers. Maybe it was a matter of time and their finally showing their age ( I hope not). Or yours just had a isolated delamination. I have read of a few in the 1970's range with some rot, but very few.

This is very common in any boat that has wood stringers.... even our beloved MC's. No matter how well they may or may not have been wrapped from the factory, there is water constantly being exposed to them (people in and out of boat, sitting outside) and the wood will eventually get wet. Wet wood = Rot. If in theory you could be 100% sure that your stringers had never had the chance of water getting to them IE every hole siliconed wach time bolt removed, zero flex in platform brackets allowing water to get behind them, rubbing silicon on any factory imperfection from the day it rolled out of the factory then yes, your stringers will never rot. For most that is not the case.

wishart's stringers actually compared to what Ive seen are not that bad and sure they would get worse, but could have been repaired and used for several more years. This is the difference between the MC.... They were made better. Supras, Malibus, Nautiques of these years will not be "repairable" but will have to be completely removed and redone as Wishart is doing. This is due to inferior construction quality. When I removed mine from a supra, they were just twigs left inside the laminations; you could take a screwdriver, punch though the glass, and then move it freely all the way to the hull of the boat.

Short story that I made really long, Yes, in time your stringers too will rot. But by being very meticulous about maitenance as in using silicone, storing inside, towel drying after use; you can prolong it. And then, chances are you will only need repair instead of replacement.

damaged442
02-12-2012, 09:25 PM
Good work!! Keep those pics coming!

liledgy
02-12-2012, 09:58 PM
Jhall007, No doubt wood will eventually rot. Are you saying that the mc owners with rotten stringers are not talking about their repairs here? Because I have not read any ( that I can recall). Of course it could be bacause of lower production levels of that era ( I have no idea how many boats they produced in the early 80's).

jhall0711
02-12-2012, 10:08 PM
Jhall007, No doubt wood will eventually rot. Are you saying that the mc owners with rotten stringers are not talking about their repairs here? Because I have not read any ( that I can recall). Of course it could be bacause of lower production levels of that era ( I have no idea how many boats they produced in the early 80's).

I certainly dont claim to be an expert... but I have come across many people that are redoing the older late 70s S&S that have had to do stringer work... Not sure why there are not very many threads on process... Certainly not as many as other boat companies though...

This is actually the very reason I went MC over any other company.... NO WOOD ANYWHERE IN MY BOAT (exception ski side pockets:D). Now that I have it I see all the other reasons why Im glad I went MC.... but the bottom line is wood rots... and after doing one stringer job I swore I would never do it again unless I was retired and looking for fun... not cause I had to.

Im sure more senior members with the pre 83 boats will chime in with some info...

wishart
02-12-2012, 10:28 PM
From my research, this vintage mastercraft did have some stringer/rot issues. Remember...these boats are getting to be 30 years old now!!! It has taken this long for the issues to surface! The only reason I discovered this issue is when removing the engine...The lag bolts just pulled right out! Also when I removed the gas tank, the floor was completly rotten under the gas tank. I assumed that my stringers were "solid" when purchasing the boat!

When first inspecting the boat at time of purchase....lifting the engine cover, and looking at the stringers ( I even brought a screwdriver with me and jabbed at them, and the floor, to check for rot) They didn't look bad! It's only until you dig a little deeper that you will discover the problem.

This boat has been in San Francisco Bay area (California) all it's life, so my stringers were just wet, and some areas deteriated.

Some people in other parts of the contry where it freezes experience a different type of stinger deteriation. What happens is that over time the stringers get wet. The boats are sitting out side in the winter, and it drops below freezing. The water in the stringers freezes and expands busting up the stringer and turning it into dust!

Now...do you really need to go through this all this effort? Probably not.
Is the boat going to come apart in the water on your weekend ski vacation? Probably not. Could I have left the water logged stringers in place, and still had a great time with the boat? I think so.

It's kinda like getting involved with a vintage car restoration/hot rod project. My enjoyment is in the restoration project itself . When it's all done, having the satifation of the end result knowing that I completed the restoration. My other hobby is building hot rods, and custom cars, vintage motorcycles, and vintage v-drive flat bottoms!...so I like big projects!

Here is a picture of "Little Whitey". My vintage 1962 "Corsair" 15.5' circle racer.

jhall0711
02-12-2012, 10:34 PM
Nice Corsair...

Mine were the aforementioned dust... I live in Northern Ohio. Yea, I agree... Do it right once... but compared to what mine were... yours look great and you could have potentially used for a while longer with some repairs.

rjracin240
02-13-2012, 12:28 PM
I have removed one of the stringers from the boat. Ready to pull a pattern off it for the new stringer. You can see how water damaged it has become. the fiberglass laminate that it was incased in just pealed right off...this was actually a good thing....I can make a more accurate pattern off the raw stringer.

Also I modified the trailer so the boat will fit properly.

next week: pattern making 101. (I think I have a good method to transfer the contour of the hull to the new beam)...we will see....

The fiberglass supplies arrived from Areomarine yesterday also...

Need to put a prop guard on my trailer for my 1988 Prostar 190, any dimension or pictures from your modifications would be appreciated.

Nice welds with good wraps! We are looking for welders at the shipyard where I work See my photo album of some of the work we do!

wishart
02-18-2012, 11:20 PM
I had great success fabricating the new stringers. Here is how I did it!

One of the old stringers was intact (just rotted and water logged) when I removed it from the boat. The fiberglass was delaminated from the stringer and I was able to just peal it away.

I then layed the old stringer on the new piece of material. The bottom has a "taper" to it that matches the contour of the hull. I placed the old stringer with the long side of the contour against the new material and traced and cut it out with a jig saw. i also cut the motor mount area's out at this time as well.

Now time to transfer the contour over to the new stringer. I got a long piece of poster paper and aligned the straight edge of the paper to the top edge of the old stringer...which is also straight. I used my carpenters pincel and "rubbed" the short edge of the taper, transfering it to my paper. Cut the pattern it out, laid it onto the appropriate side of the new material (the outside), and transfered the line with some black spray paint onto the material.

Next I took my belt sander and sanded the stringer down to the edge of the paint line. Then I just shaped the material so it had a nice contour. This whole process took less than an hour!.

Took the finished stringer to the boat....and that damn think fit perfect!!! no additional shaping needed!!!

I made 3 extra copies of my patterns so share with anyone getting involved with a similar project!!! These patterns will get you very very close to the shape for your new stringers. Just "pm" me if interested! When you are done with them...pass them along on the site so someone else can use them.

This boat is a 1982. I think 1980-1982 hull's are all the same. 1983??? fiber glass stringers?? These patterns may be very close, to the earlier hulls, if not the same. Someone here might be able to help out with years/hull designs better than I can.

I have a coat of the epoxy on the new stringers now...drying for install next week.

Here are some pics....

Next week....installing the stringers into the hull!!! Been thinking about how to do this...and I think I got it!!

mikeg205
02-18-2012, 11:58 PM
hey... nice work....Nice coke machine.... it would be awesome to have that kind of space to clamp down parts...how many hours woould you say you have into the project so far?

saclass
02-19-2012, 12:21 AM
Please forgive me if I am hijacking your thread but I am a newbie on the forum getting ready for a stringer replacement and my permissions wont let me start my own thread yet for some reason. I already have a plan in place but the simplicity of it has me questioning my reasoning. (FYI, I have replaced stringers before, but not on a boat I care about as much as my new 81 SS)

My plan is to use the best lumber I can find at Lowes, bed it in poly resin with shredded mat and cover in poly with roving.

Seems easy enough to me. Had great results previously. So my questions about your project and decision making:

1. Special lumber? Kiln dried? Is this necessary?

2. CPES... Poly resin seems pretty waterproof. If you keep the boat fairly dry is it really needed?

3. Epoxy- is it necessary over poly? Poly is so cheap and easy to work with and I think you could snap a hull in half easier than pulling out a good poly glassed stringer out

4. Bedding- are you using any special material? It seems a good poly/glass mix does the job

5. Are you using any hull supports other than the trailer?


I plan on posting my own thread with pics as soon as I am able and will be following your progress closely

wishart
02-19-2012, 02:13 AM
Saclass:

Welcome...will be looking forward to seeing your project progress.
You are going about your project the right way....do your researce first. My decisions on which materials/methods to use were based on researching restoration threads on this forum, calling many suppliers of resins as well as contacting shops that specialize in boat repair.

I will try to answer your questions:

1. Special lumber? Kiln dried? Is this necessary?

I chose to use Kiln dried Douglas Fir from a local lumber yard...not Lows or Home Depot. From my research on this fourm, it looks like Douglas Fir is the material of choice when rebuilding the stringers. You want to use the driest material possible, and Kiln dried is better than "wet" or "green" material. As soon as you wrap your stringers with the fiberglass material, anymoisture will be trapped in the wood. Drier the better.

What I found was that the material at Lows and Home Depot was "wet/green" not kiln dried. I had to call three local lumber yards to find the Kiln dired material. It was only $30.00 for a 20' piece. You only need about 13' so you can save $$$ by buying a shorter piece.


2. CPES... Poly resin seems pretty waterproof. If you keep the boat fairly dry is it really needed? My plan is to use the best lumber I can find at Lowes, bed it in poly resin with shredded mat and cover in poly with roving.

From the boat repair/material supplier I called, he explained that water will penetrate polyester resins over time. I explained my project, and he didn't even think twice on using epoxy products for this job.

He also mentioned that the shreaded mat style fiberglas material will work with the polyester resins BUT NOT with the epoxy resins. You have to use the fiberglass "cloth" material (this is the stuff that looks woven together)...It has to do with the way the material bonds with the fiberglass.

We have to remember that it has taken 30 years for the damage to become noticable on these boats.

Will Polyester resins work I think so. How much less expensive??? a couple hundred dollars...maybe...this wasn't enough savings for me to justify using polyester rather than epoxy products.



3. Epoxy- is it necessary over poly? Poly is so cheap and easy to work with and I think you could snap a hull in half easier than pulling out a good poly glassed stringer out

I think that both methods will be strong enough. Don't know what was origionally used to build these boats, but I'll bet it was polyester resins.

My decision to use epoxy resin rather than polyester was based on the fact that epoxy (from my reasearch) is more waterproof.

My boat will be used on weekends, pulled in/out of the water/not stored in the water. Some boats are sitting in lakes all summer/year.....plenty of time for water to wick itself into the wood.



4. Bedding- are you using any special material? It seems a good poly/glass mix does the job

I am planning on using material between the stringer and the hull. Also to form a "fillet" on the sides of the stringer where it meets the hull....kind of like a bead of weld does when you weld two pieces of material together at a 90 degree angle.

When you wrap your fiberglass cloth over your beam and tie it into the hull, it's not going to like a 90 degree angle. By softening this angle with some thickened resins,it will add strength between the joint, and also give the fiberglass cloth a nice transisition between beam and hull.

The material that I am using is from Areomarine. It's called "cabosil". I guess it's a very fine glass dust that thickens the resins. Haven't tried it yet....this process is next. We will see how it works.

As far as price of materials.

I am using Aeromarine products. It was the most economical product I found. Roughly $300.00 for 6 gallons of epoxy and hardener! Compaired to West Systems which is $100.00 a gallon for the epoxy, and another $80.00/half gallon for the hardener! I bought my fiberglass cloth from Aeromarine as well, which was a fraction of the cost of similar products from other suppliers.

What have I spent so far?

$650.00 for 6gallons of epoxy/hardener, a gallon of the thickening agent, and a 4" by 50yrd roll and a 12" by 50yrd roll of the fiberglass cloth......this should be enough to get me into trouble....

Oh yeah....that also includes 2 gallon mix of the expanding foam (will make 60gallons of material) if I choose to replace the foam that I removed from inbetween the stringers. Haven't decided if I am going to replace the foam yet...

$60.00 for the new lumber....

$60.00 misc, from hardwear store, brushes, acetone, plastic mixing cups, etc.

$60.00 2-3 sheets of plywood to replace the floor.


So...I'm into the repair $800-$900.00 for what it's worth..


5. Are you using any hull supports other than the trailer?

The only support I am using is the trailer. The boat did not fit right on my trailer, so I reconfigured the bow mounting area so it would contact the boat/give any support to the bow area before I removed the stringers.

I have noticed that when you push on the rub rail area of the boat...the whole thing does move!!! Now.... I didn't push very hard, and I am manuvering in the boat very carefully right now, but the flexing apeared to be more in the sides of the boat rather than the bottom of the boat where the stringers are. I took note of any flexing/popping/moving of the floor section when the stringers were cut out...and there was none. Once the stringers and floor are all fiberglassed back in it will of course be solid again.

Lumbergh
02-19-2012, 10:33 AM
Amazing work, love the shop.

Must be great to have a shop like that for your projects!

mikeg205
02-19-2012, 11:33 AM
@wishart - I think you should rename this thread to master restorer reviving a great S&S....you're definitely not newbie to restorations...

wishart
02-19-2012, 10:28 PM
Thanks for complements and positive feed back...

Looking forward to skiing behind this beauty in a few months.

The stringers are going in the boat this week....stay tuned...

mikeg205
02-19-2012, 10:38 PM
Are you rebuilding the engine? Not wake tower I hope... which part of west coast are you from general area...may be beg for a tow when its complete and I am traveling for business...:D :D

joyner1020
02-21-2012, 09:54 AM
Cant wait to see this thing finished , U are doing a great job..

wishart
02-23-2012, 03:37 AM
success at installing new stringers.

Last update was that I had completed shapeing the new stringers.


I then applied a coat of epoxy resin over the stringers to waterproof them. 24hr. dry time.

When the old stringers were removed from the hull, there was a indentation left in the bottom of the hull where the stringers were. This helped with placement of the new stringers.

I then used the heavy duty bracket that helps support the ski rope pole to set the distance of the new stringers. I c-clamped the new stringers to the bracket to set the distance.

I mixed up some epoxy resin and tried to thicken it with the thickening agent I bought from Aeromarine. I couldn't get the mixture to thicken up! Maybe I should have added more thickening agent, but I thought I added quite a bit.. So I used saw dust to thicken the mixture. I placed a bead of the mixture in the void on the hull where the old stringer was (and where the new stringer would be placed).

Next set the new stringers in place, c-clamping to the ski tow bracket. This located the stringers in the right place.

Next I used a brush and worked the thickened mixture against the stringer and the hull to form the "fillit". I let this dry for 24hours.

The result was a thick textured bead along the length of the stringer and hull.

The next day I came in with an right angle die grinder with a tapered de-burring bit (I tried several tools, 2" sander, cut off wheel) but the de-burring bit worked the best, and shaped the bead to a smooth transistion between hull and stringer.

It took 2 hours working that tool to shape the bead.

End result...solid bonded stringers to the hull.

Next It was time to wrap the stringers with the fiberglass cloth. I used 12" wide material and wrapped the stringers overlaping the fiberglass about 3" onto the hull.

the 12" material didn't reach all the way over to the other side of the stringer, so I repeated the process on the other side of the stringer. The result was that the top, half way up the stringer now had two layers of material.

The next day I went back with 4" wide fiberglass cloth and gave the joint between stringer and hull another layer of cloth, staggering the edge of the material about one inch (kinda like when you add another row of shingles on a roof).

The end result was that the stringer and joint between stringer and hull now has 2 layers of the fiberglass cloth.

The materials from Aeromarine was easy to work with. There was NO ODER...I mean ZERO!! Pretty nice.

Solid 30-45minutes work time before it started setting up.

Tips: The 4" and 12" wide fiberglass cloth was key!!! Saved a lot of time not having to cut down strips from a large 36" piece of cloth!!!

Amount of material used: This part of the project took about 3 gallons of material (2 gallons of epoxy, 1 gallon of hardener) Remember...I bought a 6 gallon kit, and I think this is going to be about the right amount of material to finnish up sealing the new floor in!

Next step...cut new floor using old floor as patterns, seal...and install...replacing foam...

What do you guys think...replace the foam...or forget about replacing the foam. I don't really care about the flotation part (don't plan on getting into a situation where the boat is going to sink)....but a little concerned about "echoing" or noise or someting as the boat is bouncing across choppy water...


Also....thoretically the area on the outside areas of the stringers should be sealed from water. When I removed the old floor, there was water in this area...but again the floor was compramised, and water got in.

I could pop a couple drain plugs in the back of the boat to "drain" this area after using the boat. If I did this, then filling that area with foam wouldn't make any sence.

Don't know if water will enter this area once sealed....doesn't seem like it would...

wishart
02-23-2012, 03:40 AM
mgorczak1:

Yes I did build a new engine for the boat, and replaced all hoses, pumps, etc. There is a pictue of that process towards the start of this thread.

wishart
02-23-2012, 03:47 AM
rjracin240:

Haven't had a chance to take detailed photos and measurements of the prop guard on the trailer....will try to post some pics and measurements soon.

Storm34
02-23-2012, 05:58 PM
Hows the swim platform? Buddy has a 78 SS and the platform seems pretty soft. Now that you have everything torn apart it may be a good time to do some repairs or replace with a wood platform.

M-Funf
02-23-2012, 06:11 PM
Here is a picture of "Little Whitey". My vintage 1962 "Corsair" 15.5' circle racer.

NICE! We had a 1963 Rayson Craft flat bottom circle racer with a 421 Pontiac...

Are you located in the Bay Area?

wishart
02-23-2012, 07:18 PM
yes, I am located in Campbell, in the South bay.

There is a 1965 Raysoncraft with a 400 Pontiac for sale right now on the Sacramento Craigs list. The guy had two boats for sale. By buddies just bought his 1958 "bel air" all wood flatbottom, but the Raysoncraft was sitting there also...it's a pretty sweet boat. I took some pictures of it when we went to pick up the 1958. We actually took both boats to "Bell Aqua" (a ski club in sacramento), put both boats in the water and swaped the trailers (for some reason at one point he mixed the trailers up)... The Rayson craft looks killer in the water... Check them out...

pics here:

http://mahskitow.shutterfly.com

wishart
02-23-2012, 07:26 PM
storm34:

I have given some thought to the swim platform... The swim platform on the 1982 is a fiberglass platform. Mine is still solid, no cracks still anchored into the back of the boat solid.

I think a wood platform would be nice...Where to get one???

The fiberglass platform anchors into the back of the boat using large lag bolts that end up above the floor in the boat.

From what I have seen....the wood swim platform has more of a angle bracket on either side of the platform, and I think the lag bolts end up going through the back of the boat, and into the stringers main stringers.

Problem here I see...is that this is another potential point that water can wick it's way into my new stringers!!!....so....don't know what to do...the Fiberglass swim platform bugs me a little bit...If I can locate a wood one...might try to get it to fit....but my current platform will work also....

I'm up in the air on this one....

wishart
02-23-2012, 07:30 PM
What about the foam.....


Do I replace it.....(I bought new expanding foam mixture)

or

Do I forget about replacing the foam.....


I think earlier Mastercrafts did not have foam.

I think Once they went to fiberglass stringer construction they didn't have foam...not sure though...

So...just for a couple years 1981--1983??? they had the foam...???

Cloaked
02-23-2012, 09:31 PM
What about the foam.....


Do I replace it.....(I bought new expanding foam mixture)

or

Do I forget about replacing the foam.....


I think earlier Mastercrafts did not have foam.

I think Once they went to fiberglass stringer construction they didn't have foam...not sure though...

So...just for a couple years 1981--1983??? they had the foam...???Forget about the foam. It serves very little added value. Now, that foam may be a USCG requirement so don't take my word. Personally, I'd not put it back in my boat. You are doing a very nice job on the stringers.

From experience, now is the best time to replace the platform mounting that has lag screws (currently) .. Take those out and use the same holes and thru-bolts with aluminum or stainless backing plates. No more issues with the platform. If you keep the lag screws, they will eventually need replacing, sooner than later. This is the perfect time to perform preventative measures. The fiberglass platforms are nice. I'd trade my teak from an 85 model for a glass platform. They are much quiter during operation.

Teak platforms can be found from time to time or Teak World in Lebanon, TN makes them.

.

M-Funf
02-24-2012, 11:43 AM
yes, I am located in Campbell, in the South bay.

There is a 1965 Raysoncraft with a 400 Pontiac for sale right now on the Sacramento Craigs list. The guy had two boats for sale. By buddies just bought his 1958 "bel air" all wood flatbottom, but the Raysoncraft was sitting there also...it's a pretty sweet boat. I took some pictures of it when we went to pick up the 1958. We actually took both boats to "Bell Aqua" (a ski club in sacramento), put both boats in the water and swaped the trailers (for some reason at one point he mixed the trailers up)... The Rayson craft looks killer in the water... Check them out...

pics here:

http://mahskitow.shutterfly.com


Good lookin boats. Our '63 was a wood deck with yellow paint. I'll have to see if I can find a picture.

I used to live down there, but finally escaped to the north bay.

mikeg205
02-24-2012, 11:57 AM
Man...moving right along... you''ll have this on the water soon!!!!

liledgy
02-25-2012, 08:29 AM
Their was a platform on CL georgia for a $100.

saclass
02-26-2012, 06:10 PM
Quick question regarding my earlier post with questions. You mentioned that you didnt use any extra hull support while doing your stringers. I have port side main and secondary out. I think I will be doing these 2 before removing the other side. I have my first secondary cut to match the orginal. However when I put it in to check fit there is a big gap along the center portion. When I stand on the middle of the board this closes up. I am wondering if you ran into this issue. I dont know whether the hull needs to be re-supported or if I just weight it down while curing and call it good. What are your thoughts?

wishart
02-27-2012, 11:41 AM
saclass:

My origional plan was to replace one main stringer at a time to limit any flexing of the hull. I did not remove the shorter "secondary" stringers. They were still solid, and the fiberglass they are wraped in has not been damaged.

As I cut the stringers out, I was watching the hull very closly for any signs of movement. With the secondary stringer still in place, it seemed fairly solid.

I decided to remove the other stringer at this point. Working with the fiberglass material...there is about a 24 hour cure time, so I wanted to do both stringers to save time.

As far as weighting the stringers down to touch the hull.....

Use a long framing level (one of those four foot ones) and place it on top of your stringer. If the top of your stringer is flat....don't wheight it down to touch the hull.... You will now have a "bow" in your stringer.....


If the new stringer is not contacting the hull....might have to fill the space with a thickened mixture....maybe your cut is off a little bit on the bottom of your stringer.

Look under the boat and make sure the bottom of the boat still has the right profile, and it didn't sag....may have to support the bottom of the boat.

Storm34
03-05-2012, 06:18 PM
Ok, it's been a week. Any more updates?!

saclass
03-08-2012, 02:55 AM
My wood platform has angle brackets with nuts and bolts just through the transom. Groing up we had an American Skier with a glass platform. Always seemed like that thing was gonna break off. But we never had to sand or oil it

wishart
03-13-2012, 11:25 PM
Floor and stringer update:

This part of the project was a long haul....Not really hard, but it just took time...

I was able to get all the old floor boards out in one piece, and used them as a templet to cut the new pieces.

Taking great care on removing the old stringers and floors so they could be used as patterns was also key....This saved a lot of time when fabricating the new pieces. Very little trimming/fitting was needed after the patterns were transfered to the new materials.

Material used for floor is 1/2" "sanded" plywood. According to the "lumber expert" at Lowes, the plywood was rated as 'indoor/outdoor". I guess the glues used in the plywood are rated for indoor/outdoor use. The sign above the stack of wood also noted that it was suitable for outdoor use...with the appropriate top coat.

I coated all sides and top/bottom of the plywood with the epoxy resin before installing the new decking into the hull. Looking back on the project....I think I should have just coated the bottom of the plywood with the resin to protect the material from moisture. Coating both sides of the decking used quite a bit of resin material....and I top coated the decking with 1-2 layers of cloth/resin material anyway.

I used 1 1/4 #8 stainless deck screws to attach the plywood to the stringers.

3m 5200 marine adhesive (in a calking gun) was used to seal the decking to the sides of the hull, and around the engine mounting area.

Used my 12" wide fiberglass cloth and covered the entire floor with the material, and about 4 inches up the side of the hull to add strength between the hull and new deck.

After dried, I went back over all joints with my 4" fiberglass cloth. Now every joint as at least 2 layers of the fiberglass material.

I went over the engine mounting area a couple more times with the 4" material to add strength and to waterproof the area.

Next step on the project...paint the center section of the hull with a grey paint, like from the factory, replace prop shaft packing material, and install the engine/transmission.....

Glad this part of the project is over....very time consuming, it's a sticky mess! I ruined about 3 pairs of pants during this process.

Material check:
I have used every bit of my 2 rolls of fiberglass cloth (one 50yrd roll 12" wide, and one 50yrd roll 4"wide. I actually had to buy another roll of 4" wide material.)

My 6 gallons of resin material is about gone also....


The 12" and 4" wide fiberglass was key on this project...would have been harder using a different width material.

So....I feel that the 6gallon kit from aero marine was just about right.

I decided NOT to put the foam back between the stringers...I feel the area is sealed quite well, and there is not a significant added benefit with the foam between the stringers.

enjoy the project pictures...

saclass
03-14-2012, 12:40 AM
Wow, looking good!

Did you use CPES to coat the wood before epoxy/glass? I have heard many rave about it on here and CCfan, but after my own experience I am not a fan...see my thread for details.

It looks like your exhaust must run in between the main stringers and not on the outside of them as mine do. This is good as the stock floor configuration did not allow access to the exhaust on mine without tearing out floor. I will modify this so that the rear center "non-permanent" piece that is wider than stock so the exhaust is accessible. A leak there can sink a boat, seen that happen!

I agree just coating the bottom of the floor would be sufficient if you are glassing the top. Matter of fact my entire floor will be coated with 3M poly on the bottom and glass on the top (with 3M poly). Epoxy on all the stringers though.

Keep us posted, I'm trying to catch up

wishart
03-14-2012, 02:37 AM
Wow, looking good!

Did you use CPES to coat the wood before epoxy/glass? I have heard many rave about it on here and CCfan, but after my own experience I am not a fan...see my thread for details.

It looks like your exhaust must run in between the main stringers and not on the outside of them as mine do. This is good as the stock floor configuration did not allow access to the exhaust on mine without tearing out floor. I will modify this so that the rear center "non-permanent" piece that is wider than stock so the exhaust is accessible. A leak there can sink a boat, seen that happen!

I agree just coating the bottom of the floor would be sufficient if you are glassing the top. Matter of fact my entire floor will be coated with 3M poly on the bottom and glass on the top (with 3M poly). Epoxy on all the stringers though.

Keep us posted, I'm trying to catch up

Been reading/following your thread also...looking good....

I was lead towards CPES while doing my research on this project, and infact purchased enough CPES product to tackle the stringer/floor job.

I was a little skeptical about using this "super product", and opted to seal the wood using the old tried and true method with the resins....returning the CPES I purchased, and yes...there was a restocking fee...


1982 must have been the transition year where they ran the exhaust down the center of the stringers...much better design than going outboard of the main stringers.

Still thinking about the foam idea....you are right...if water is able to enter on the outside of the main stringers (remember, everything is now freshly sealed) water could theoretically fill that whole area up, possibly causing the boat to sink.

The foam was placed in that area not only to add boiancy to the boat in the event that the whole thing filled up with water, but it also displaced the empty space not allowing thearea to fill up with water in the event that the area sprung a leak.

The way that the foam was origionally installed into this area, was that the floor was punched with something like a 3" hole saw in a few places, and the liquid foam material was poured into the area and when it expand, the area was filled with foam! The "plug" cut out by the hole saw was the placed back in the hole it came out of (think puzzle piece) and then fiberglassed back into place.

Pretty effective method...when removing the old deck material, there was just a small space up against the transom that the foam didn't flow...every other space was entirely filled with foam!

Not too late for me to do this....still may....don't know yet...more thinking needed...

Was also thinking about popping in a 2 more exterior drain plugs, outboard of the main stringers so I can monitor if water is entering into this area....The way it is set up now....you would never know if water has entered into this area...

maybe I'm doing too much thinking....

03geetee
03-14-2012, 04:42 PM
Sick!

JTR

mikeg205
03-14-2012, 07:27 PM
Looking very good...noted on the pants...I will save some old pants when I get to my future restore project...:D :D :D

19_Skier
03-14-2012, 07:37 PM
Thanks for taking the time to document this restore, that rig is going to look amazing when you are done!

Slinkyredfoot
03-14-2012, 08:24 PM
I love the pictures and from what I can see, this restoration has been well thought out and planned, very top of the line, can't wait to see the results.:D

saclass
03-15-2012, 02:18 PM
[QUOTE=wishart;822361]Been reading/following your thread also...looking good....

1982 must have been the transition year where they ran the exhaust down the center of the stringers...much better design than going outboard of the main stringers.

Still thinking about the foam idea....you are right...if water is able to enter on the outside of the main stringers (remember, everything is now freshly sealed) water could theoretically fill that whole area up, possibly causing the boat to sink.

The foam was placed in that area not only to add boiancy to the boat in the event that the whole thing filled up with water, but it also displaced the empty space not allowing thearea to fill up with water in the event that the area sprung a leak.

The way that the foam was origionally installed into this area, was that the floor was punched with something like a 3" hole saw in a few places, and the liquid foam material was poured into the area and when it expand, the area was filled with foam! The "plug" cut out by the hole saw was the placed back in the hole it came out of (think puzzle piece) and then fiberglassed back into place.

QUOTE]

When I mentioned sinking the boat I was mainly referring to how on mine there was no way to inspect or repair the exhaust with floor in place. I wish they ran the exhaust inboard of the stringers like yours, but I am modifying the floor to give me access.

That said, I would personally replace the floor foam, just in case.

Mine has no floor foam, all in the bow so I have no storage up there.

thinking of partitioning off the exhaust and putting in floor foam so I can remove some from the bow, I hate how little storage there is now.

wishart
03-16-2012, 01:32 AM
Some more progress made today...

It's feeling good that the boat is now on it's way back together....


I painted the center of the hull and where the hull and new floor meet...Light grey......Like Mastercraft did from the factory.

Used "Cardinal Industrial" paint product. Heavy duty polyurethane paint product that should hold up well with water/oils, etc. Came out really nice.

wishart
03-16-2012, 01:53 AM
Thanks for the positive feedback everyone....

Keeping you posted....

saclass
03-20-2012, 02:39 AM
A few questions about your bow floor piece- is there any support under it or is it just glassed to the hull? Is it level with the rest of the floor?

I ask because my bow was full of foam but I am removing that and extending the floor

JohnMogs
03-21-2012, 02:09 PM
Nice Work! I just picked up a 1980 190 Stars & Stripes Powerslot for $2000, Stringers are already done. Dropped it in the lake last night and it was awesome! Needs some maintenance on the hoses and exhaust, swim platform needs some work, so if you're selling yours I'd be interested.
Gel coat was rubbed off and the metallic flake is flaking off... thinking of covering with vinyl or applying new gel coat. I'll keep watching what you're doing and take notes, that's for the detailed post!

JohnMogs
03-21-2012, 03:13 PM
typo, I was trying to say Thank you for the detailed posts!

JohnMogs
03-21-2012, 03:16 PM
Here are some shots of the 1980 Powerslot, would love to find out how to restore the gel coat.

wishart
03-23-2012, 01:30 AM
A few questions about your bow floor piece- is there any support under it or is it just glassed to the hull? Is it level with the rest of the floor?

I ask because my bow was full of foam but I am removing that and extending the floor


The floor under the bow just continues level with the rest of the floor. It sits on the top of the front of the stringers, and is glassed to the hull around the edges as it heads to the front of the boat. There is no other supports under the floor.

Go order a giant pizza and use the cardboard pizza box and make a flat template, transfer your pattern to your plywood, and glass that baby in.

wishart
03-23-2012, 01:54 AM
Progress is continuing. Concentrated my efforts this week on some issues I discovered while dismantling the boat for restoration.

(1) Slop in the steering systemL

I noticed when doing the initial walk around of the boat at time of purchase that there was considerable "slop" or "play" in the steering system. When reaching under the boat and moving the rudder from side to side while holding the steering wheel, there was slop. It would have caused the boat to move from side to side while under way. This boat would have not tracked straight!

After the floor was removed, I traced the problem to excessive wear in the bracket that supported the steering cable just before the rudder. Was NOT impressed by the origional bracket, or the bracket fabricated by Mastercraft that attached the steering cable bracket to the hull! The origional "fabricated" bracket was 2 pieces of 1/4" plate welded at 90 degrees to eachother that allowed a place for the steering cable bracket to mount.

The weld didn't have good penatration, and was sloppy.....but.....it did work for 30years....so i guess it wasn't that bad.....

I re-engineered the bracket. Used 1/4" plate, with gussets, and pass throughs so water wouldn't sit around it. All tig welded with new cable bracket....Won't have any troubles now...

wishart
03-23-2012, 02:12 AM
Issue #2


Prop shaft not centered with the hole.

I noticed when pulling the stuffing block off to referbish...that the propshaft did not ride in the center of the hole.

With slight effort, you could push it to center, but I thought it should be centered.

Posted this issue under "engines/drivetrain" and got some good suggestions on how to fix.

I pulled the prop shaft from the boat and checked for straightness. It was straight.

I then consentrated my attention to the Whip strut. Someone on the forum suggested to "oval" the holes where the strut attached to the hull to allow the strut to move left/right slightly...centering the shaft..


I did. modified (slightly) the outboard 4 holes with a round file, and....bingo...centered shaft.

After further inspection of the stuffing block, you could see where the shaft was rubbing on the brass block. There was NOT enough pressure to cause significant damage to block...but it was rubbing on it.


These are just a couple examples WHY it is a good idea to go through boats like this. They are 30 years old, and there are worn parts. When this boat has been checked and issues addressed, there should be less of a chance for breakdowns and less time troubleshooting problems like...."why doesn't this boat track stright"... on your weekend to the lake.

wishart
03-23-2012, 02:33 AM
Issue #3

Throttle would NOT index properly in Neutral.

I noticed at time of purchase, that the throttle would NOT index properly in Neutral.

I removed the MORSE model 1 throttle control from the boat at the same time I removed the engine.

Took the whole assembly apart, and found the problem immedately.

I figured that there was a ball/de-tent situation inside the unit...and there was. I figured that all those years slamming that throttle from neutral to drive to reverse that the detents were probably worn...and they were.

Now where to get the new part....

As some of you may know....MORSE is no longer MORSE, and that they haven't made this "model 1" for quite some time.

I didn't want to "upgrade" to a more modern throttle assembly....I like the way the old one looks!

Ebay to the rescue...At the time I was looking for this part, there were 3 MORSE model 1's on there. This is a "generic" throttle control that was used in all types of boats....including sail boats to control thier auxulary gas engines!

Thinking that the auxulary engine in a sail boat isn't used very much....and the fact that the throttle was probably "eased' into gear....this would be a good "doner" for parts. I bought the sail boat one...and problem solved for $50.00. The chrome handle is tarnished, but my origional one is perfect.


There is slight wear on the part, but it still works 100 times better than my origional. Haven't finished complete referbish yet on throttle...still working on this part....

wishart
03-30-2012, 12:46 AM
More progress this week.

The engine is in!!! Big step forward!!!

Spent some time "aligning" the engine. This was not as hard as I thought. Thanks to TT...got some good tips... A little nudge here...a tug there...Got it dead on!

I have to think ahead a little here. Was able to drill the holes in the top of the stringer while the engine was in place. I am going to have to lift it out one more time to drill the holes in the side of the stringers for the mounts. It will be easier to drill the mounting holes for the fuel filter and support for the ski tow pole while engine is out. Must think about any other mounts I will need around engine area at this time....don't want to have to lift it out a third time....

1redTA
03-30-2012, 06:05 AM
thanks for the pics!

Storm34
03-30-2012, 02:44 PM
If you're picky like me you can find water hose from Jamestown Dist with blue instead of green.

Storm34
04-09-2012, 11:07 AM
Any updates...at your pace you should be in the water by now!

wishart
04-10-2012, 01:18 PM
Was too busy to post my weekly update last week, so here it is a couple days late...


Been working on the engine "hook up".

Again...not super difficult, just time consuming...


Drilled holes and mounted ski tow support.

fabricated new removable wood center floor board pieces.

rewraped engine harness, and mounted to stringer Hooked up to engine.

painted and mounted mufflers along with new rubber exhaust piping.


Ran new fuel line, mounted fuel filter to stringer and installed new filter element.

Temporary installed fuel tank for start up and test run. Will remove one more time to install tow ring on back of boat/run new spedo air lines..


Working towards a possible first time fire-up this week. and a test run on the lake by this weekend!!!


Were really getting close...

This week's "to do" list.


finish rebuilding and install the Morse throttle control...


Temporary run battery cables for fire up and test run. I am planning on reconfiguring front floor pannel to accomidate a dual battery set-up...


double check boat electrical system. Have not done this yet since boat purchase. Does not look like wires are too screwed up under the dash...


Where do I go from here...


After lake test run, and all system check out good...get boat ready for paint....



Build a jig to support boat off trailer. prep boat for paint (stay tuned)...



prep/paint trailer to match boat...



re do interior....

Cloaked
04-10-2012, 08:11 PM
Impressive. Thanks agian for the pictures. Nice job.

Any plans for tunes/amp/speakers while you have it open for wiring and mounting?

.

Storm34
04-12-2012, 04:29 PM
Great work! Nice and clean as well!

Wait....paint?! Im currently removing paint from one of my boats and IMHO I don't think paint belongs anywhere on a boat other than the registration numbers! No matter what people say...gel will hold up much better and be cheaper in the long run.

Obviously it's your boat and I'm far from the restoration police! Just my $.02!

CruisinGA
04-12-2012, 04:59 PM
x2- it's no one's boat but yours, but I bet you'll be surprised and how well a little wet sand love will bring back that gel coat!

Great progress!

wishart
04-17-2012, 02:54 AM
It's been four months since this project began, and I fired up the boat for the first time on Friday...and it ran great!...I took a short video, will post a link when I get it up on You tube.


The engine would NOT fire at first. It was kind of a stumper...
I had fuel.
I had spark...well...come to find out...I had a small amount of spark!

Checked the spark by pulling #1 spark plug out...I had spark, but I thought it looked weak. I continued to try to get the damn think to start until the battery went dead. I threw in the towel, and went home to "sleep on it".

I was around a old 1965 Mustang the next day, so I checked the spark on that engine, and the spark plug sparked a hell of a lot more than the Mastercraft spark...

I had another new coil, so I swaped it out, and tried it again...1/2 crank...and that baby roared to life!!!

IT WAS A FAULTY COIL!!!

pretty exciting!

set the timing, hooked up the throttle....it's ready for a spin on the lake! Putting in the seats (temporary) to give it a spin.

wishart
04-17-2012, 03:27 AM
Great work! Nice and clean as well!

Wait....paint?! Im currently removing paint from one of my boats and IMHO I don't think paint belongs anywhere on a boat other than the registration numbers! No matter what people say...gel will hold up much better and be cheaper in the long run.

Obviously it's your boat and I'm far from the restoration police! Just my $.02!


Yes...the paint.....

I'm torn about this one also.....

There is absoutly nothing wrong with the gel coat on this boat...matter of fact...it's in pretty good shape...

except for the fact that the striping is brown!!

I'm not too hot on the bown color.

so...I don't know... leaning on changing the striping to candy red metal flake....

i've seen a couple pictures of some boats on TT that are pretty inspiring....



What do you guys think???

Restore the existing blah...brown....

or

repaint an eye popping candy metal flake...with matching trailer...

RustyMC
04-17-2012, 04:47 AM
Wishart - Thank you for providing all of the pictures and detailed updates. Of all the threads I've gone through here on TT, this has been one of the most enjoyable.

My $.02 on paint vs. restore:

It's your boat and you've certainly done more than 99% would have to bring this baby back to life and whichever route you go it will look awesome based on the work we've seen in this thread so far. :D

If you're looking to keep the boat for your own personal enjoyment, I would paint it whatever color you want. If though, you are looking to sell it after the project is complete, I think keeping the original gel coat is the way to go.

oxberger
04-17-2012, 03:36 PM
I agree with RustyMC. If you're keeping the boat paint it whatever color you like. I can't remember who it is but it's one of the major posters on this site that did his in an awesome yellow and white. If you plan on selling it in 2-3 years, keep it original it will hold its value and people will be less skeptical as to why the original color was changed.

19_Skier
04-17-2012, 03:43 PM
^^ x3. You are the one that has to look at it everyday. If you are worried about the resale after painting just take some detailed photos of the gelcoat prior to painting to show any potential buyers the original condition.

You've already extensively detailed the restore with pictures, what's a few more! :D

mikeg205
04-17-2012, 05:59 PM
wow...its no longer the same boat...you are a marine genius....

wishart
04-17-2012, 07:42 PM
Thanks for the complements on my thread. Reading verious different forum's on a variety of topics (hot rods, hot boats, toyota landcruisers, etc...) I always wish people would post pictures in addition to talking about their projects/problems. I went to great length to try to encorporate as many pictures as I could so everyone could SEE what's going on.

thanks again!!



After 4 months it's out of the shop and ready for a test run tomorrow morning.

Here is a couple "rig" shots....

The more I look at it...the color is kinda growing on me....and it matches my dually...

WAIT A SECOND....IS THAT PICTURE FROM 1982...OR 2012???? (I am totally into the whole vintage package deal!!!)

I got my "temporary" interior in.

Bringing my ski tomorrow...just incase the boat checks out ok....

orbeamlb
04-17-2012, 07:48 PM
Have to say, I like the original colors. Great looking boat!

toobusylivin
04-17-2012, 07:55 PM
I agree. Keep the color. Check my posts, you can do wonders with that original gel coat. Don't be afraid to get after it. I also need to plug Jim@Baws, his decals are awesome! Highly recommend him for your future needs.

03geetee
04-17-2012, 08:58 PM
Love the job and the color, and that trailer is sick!

JTR

jhall0711
04-17-2012, 09:47 PM
The old school brown is awesome... let it grow on you some more.... It does match truck well already... Great work!

tph
04-17-2012, 10:05 PM
Interesting....no vent on the back of the engine cover. When did MC start installing those?

Lumbergh
04-17-2012, 10:45 PM
Awesome work!

Wish I had that kind of shop and talent.

You gotta post a video of it running when it is all complete...

RustyMC
04-18-2012, 07:30 AM
+1 on the request for the video. And now, after seeing your tow rig, I don't know how you can do anything but KEEP the brown.

wishart
04-19-2012, 03:10 PM
Took the boat out for the "test run" yesterday and it went great. Invited my parents out to be "co-pilot's". They are super supportive of all my projects...especially this one...

It is quite rewarding to take something (like this boat) that had a bad engine, rotten floor and stringers, sloppy steering, etc. and bring it back to life.


Boat ran great. 1/2 crank fire up's all day. no hesitation durring acceleration, no vibrations, no engine noises...

Just a few minor issues:


Starter tends to stay engaged for a brief few seconds after key is returned to the "run" position..


At certain rpm's on occasion...didn't do it all the time...I experienced a "harmonics" sound that would come and go. With the engine out, I spun the propshaft by hand, and herd a similar sound comming form those rubber bushings/strut under the boat. I thought it might be because I was rotating the assembly (dry) with no water to lubricate bushings/shaft.


Going to pull the strut, and replace those bushings (should have done that when I had the strut off the first time!!!)


Noticed that when the boat was going over the choppy water, that the dash looked like it needed some additional support. Since the fiberglass back of the observers seat has been removed to allow access under the bow, I need to add some additional support and tie it into the floor.


Over all very impressed with the performance of the boat.

Was supprised how far forward it seems you are sitting (close to the nose of the boat) .

Also...how low the boat sits in the water.

The boat really does look "cool" out on the water.

And after seeing the boat behind the Dually, and out on the water....The origional brown/tan gel looks pretty damn good!!! I don't feel that I would be achieving much by changing the paint scheme on the boat. Planning on bringing the origional finnish back to life.

What next:


Got a short list of items to order from Skidim...

wire up a dual battery set up.

make some interior panels.

Install killer stereo

get some new upholstery,

buff that baby out,

order/install new graphics.

oxberger
04-19-2012, 03:15 PM
Man, that is AWESOME!!! Great job! Love the pics of the boat and the rig. Make sure you document the interior and restoring the shine like you did the other stuff. Highly impressed. Just goes to show you, with the right tools and a little know how alot can be accomplished.

Lumbergh
04-19-2012, 03:27 PM
edit for content.

Lumbergh
04-19-2012, 03:28 PM
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr66/Lumbergh556/borat.jpg

thatsmrmastercraft
04-19-2012, 04:02 PM
Nothing better than first time out on the water going well. Boat looks great.

bobx1
04-19-2012, 06:23 PM
My hats off to you Wishart - tremendous job!

M-Funf
04-19-2012, 07:09 PM
Is that Calero?

orbeamlb
04-19-2012, 07:40 PM
It sure looks great on the water. Love the way the S&S hull sets on the surface.

mikeg205
04-19-2012, 08:14 PM
we need a side x side before and after pic... :)

wishart
04-19-2012, 08:38 PM
Is that Calero?

Yep....indeed it is...(South San Jose California if anyone is wondering what we are talking about)

Water level is pretty low....there is an "island" out there just past the launching area...pretty windy out there all day yesterday...

Good place for a "test run"...10 minutes from my house....


There were some young kids pulling in with their 2002 White Chevy Tahoe and matching mastercraft ready to do some wakeboarding while I was pulling out.....They stopped and came over to admire the S&S...

wishart
04-19-2012, 08:38 PM
we need a side x side before and after pic... :)

will do a side by side after I get the thing all buffed out, etc...

03geetee
04-19-2012, 08:47 PM
Awesome shots man! What a great feeling to drive that sucker huh? Not a better looking boat on the water period!

Yeah I know I am biased but I dont care.

JTR

sethro
04-19-2012, 08:53 PM
Very nice job. I think it is GREAT that your parents got to share the experience. Just look at how happy they are in the pics. Very cool.

wishart
04-27-2012, 01:45 AM
Progress must continue...summer is on it's way...

Now that the boat is officially sea worthy, it's time to start on the interor...

As you can see, the seating arrangement was modified at one time.

The back bench bottom was split into two smaller sections, with a hard middle section added....pretty sure it was to help step over the back of the boat.

Also the "dog leg" front seat was eliminated infavor for observor seating facing the back only.

I am going to leave the front seat modification (cleaned up quite a bit)

I am going to turn the rear seat back into a full bench seating arrangement.


Finished fabrication of my dual battery box.

Currently working on new front seat base fabrication out of aluminum.

wishart
04-27-2012, 09:59 PM
finished the new front seat base today.

Also mounted "perko" type switch. Going to run a battery isolator along with perko switch.

Turned out pretty clean. batteries/electrical separate, and a nice storage compartment.

Better than the wooden set-up previous owner cobbled together....

Lumbergh
04-28-2012, 07:04 PM
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr66/Lumbergh556/napoleon_dynamite.jpg

wishart
05-08-2012, 08:09 PM
been waiting for some battery cable parts to come into the local parts store...so instead of sitting around for my electrical parts to show up...I decided to keep working!!!!!

Installed new spedo pick-up's on the back of the boat.
Installed transom tow hook

Wet sanded the whole boat in 1000 grit paper.

Buffed with wool pad and 3m super duty compound
Followed by 3m
Followed by 3m

This took 3 days!!! to buff this boat out...but it looks brand NEW!!!

stripped the graphics off before buffing....have a new set on order through Jim at BAWS!!

Next...yank the boat off the trailer and buff the bottom.

Wet sand the trailer, and buff that out also!!!! Recover the bunks, and make a couple new side pannels.


Here is a couple teaser shots....more to follow....

wishart
05-08-2012, 08:10 PM
Anyone know where to source a new rub rail insert for the s&s????

wishart
05-08-2012, 08:17 PM
changed my electrical plan slightly...

NOT going to run the "perko" switch.

Opted for a "solid state" battery isolator that will charge both batteries automatically, and will isolate "boat" battery from "accessory" battery. I have run these types of isolatore with great success in vehicles with heavy loads such as large stereo and air ride suspensions.

Will run a main disconnect switch to kill power to the entire boat when not in use.

more to come.

Cloaked
05-08-2012, 08:19 PM
Anyone know where to source a new rub rail insert for the s&s????

http://tacomarine.com/cat--Vinyl-Inserts--cat_rr_vinyl_inserts.html

.

wishart
05-08-2012, 08:26 PM
thanks for that rub rail lead...Will have to check the profile of my insert....

wishart
05-09-2012, 08:47 PM
pulled the boat off the trailer today....with the assistance of my forklift and tram hoist. I cut down a few pallets and topped them off with old tires for padding to set the boat down.

The boat is completly rubbed out....I even did the bottom of the boat! It looks awesome!!


Going to get some work on the trailer...recover the bunks...rub the paint out...

east tx skier
05-09-2012, 09:01 PM
This is going great. Was going to make suggestions based on earlier questions, but you have been going exactly the route I would have ssuggested, which is refurb bone stock. The boat looks amazing!

mayo93prostar
05-09-2012, 10:20 PM
Great job. It is amazing how well wet sanding and rubbing compound works on these boats. To help insure you get the right size decals from Jim at BAWS, measure the size of the "Mastercraft" on the sides and let him know. The size he sent my neighbor for his 82 s&s was about 4 inches short in length compared to the old decals on the boat. Jim is going to send different size but to help you avoid similar problem, measure twice, have Jim cut once. Hopefully you are glad now that you did not repaint the boat! It looks great and will look even better with the new decals.

Wired_Right
05-10-2012, 12:02 AM
Going to get some work on the trailer...recover the bunks...rub the paint out...

You can try; Trex Deck (laminate deck material) 2x4 or 2x6. (Home Depot or Lowes)
You can cover those with carpet and the bunks will Never rot.
They also make 1/2x12 flat Trex's material to use on the fenders between the boat.

mikeg205
05-10-2012, 08:53 AM
Nice job...again..wishart.... thanks for saving the old girl...saving an old MC is on my bucket list.

SilviaMan
05-10-2012, 09:38 AM
Did you use the bow eye to lift the front? I have been thinking about lifting my boat off the trailer close to what you did there.

wishart
05-10-2012, 08:44 PM
Did you use the bow eye to lift the front? I have been thinking about lifting my boat off the trailer close to what you did there.

yes, I used the bow eye (the one located on top of the bow). Lifted the boat fine. As you can see from the pics...I used a heavy duty utility strap for the back. It's a good way to lift the boat off the trailer.

Wired_Right
05-10-2012, 11:40 PM
Wishart,

Hey I tried to PM you a few times. Sent an email too with some pics of the mount and radio I took out of my S&S. Maybe you would be interested and I could drop it off to you. http://img.tapatalk.com/45b5f35e-8a16-d05e.jpg

Bill Walters
Wired_Right

wishart
05-12-2012, 12:05 AM
Wishart,

Hey I tried to PM you a few times. Sent an email too with some pics of the mount and radio I took out of my S&S. Maybe you would be interested and I could drop it off to you. http://img.tapatalk.com/45b5f35e-8a16-d05e.jpg

Bill Walters
Wired_Right

Hi Bill... I think I recieved one of your messages, but forgot to write back (very busy with this mastercraft restoration at the moment)....

Thanks for the offer, but I am going to run the ipod directly into the amp. I found a slick set up from Polk (I think) that will enable you to do this. It also has a volume control so you don't have to fiddle with the volume on your Ipod.

Still doing my stereo research...

TOO-TALL
05-12-2012, 12:38 AM
I just seen this thread....Great work work enjoyed reading all the progress so far.

Great job and Keep the pics coming.

Wired_Right
05-12-2012, 01:25 AM
Hi Bill... I think I recieved one of your messages, but forgot to write back (very busy with this mastercraft restoration at the moment)....

Thanks for the offer, but I am going to run the ipod directly into the amp. I found a slick set up from Polk (I think) that will enable you to do this. It also has a volume control so you don't have to fiddle with the volume on your Ipod.

Still doing my stereo research...

I totally understand. That is why i took out that stereo.

I have my phone bluetooth connected to the amp and 2 remotes one in the boat and one for the transom.

JohnMogs
06-06-2012, 12:24 PM
Sounds like a great set up! What stereo components are you using?

gid
06-06-2012, 04:33 PM
Stereo? Isnt the soft sound of water gently lapping on the hull music enough?

mzimme
06-06-2012, 04:39 PM
Stereo? Isnt the soft sound of water gently lapping on the hull music enough?

Not when girls want to dance. :D

thatsmrmastercraft
06-06-2012, 05:22 PM
Not when girls want to dance. :D

Who can argue with that?

wishart
06-13-2012, 03:25 PM
Been slacking on the updates lately...mainly because I've been going non stop on this project, and don't have enough extra time to sit down at the computer and update....


Will do a more extensive "update" shortly,...but


pulled a 15 hour day on this baby yesterday installing the new carpet....not a tough job...just time consuming....finished at 2am!


Back seat all ready to install....engine cover done....


Here is some teaser shots.....more to come.....after the interior thrash session.....

LYNRDSKYNRD
06-13-2012, 03:31 PM
Wohoo looking good, can't wait for the extensive update!

thatsmrmastercraft
06-13-2012, 03:32 PM
Looking great, though I suspect someone isn't as enthused in this project as you seem to be.:rolleyes:

Lumbergh
06-13-2012, 04:08 PM
Loving this thread, so full of win.

vwtype53
06-14-2012, 12:32 PM
wishart, your boat is looking great!

I'm a really impressed by your fabrication skills and love the attention to detail. Keep it up.

As for the interior, are you doing the upholstery yourself, or do you have a local shop making it for you? Looking really nice...

I am slowly starting the restoration on my '81 and have a similar issue that you did with slop in that bracket for the steering cable. I know you made the new custom bracket, but the new clamp looks like it was purchased? Do you recall where you bought that cable clamping piece?

Thanks, and good luck in the final stages!

03geetee
06-14-2012, 09:13 PM
Sick!

JTR

wishart
06-15-2012, 01:32 AM
wishart, your boat is looking great!

I'm a really impressed by your fabrication skills and love the attention to detail. Keep it up.

As for the interior, are you doing the upholstery yourself, or do you have a local shop making it for you? Looking really nice...

I am slowly starting the restoration on my '81 and have a similar issue that you did with slop in that bracket for the steering cable. I know you made the new custom bracket, but the new clamp looks like it was purchased? Do you recall where you bought that cable clamping piece?

Thanks, and good luck in the final stages!

Thanks for the complements....

This has been a fun project, and I am looking forward to enjoying the finish product this summer.

As far as the steering bracket, I did fabricate the mounting bracket that attaches to the hull of the boat. As I recall, the problem was that the new bracket that attaches to the steering cable was shorter than the origional. When mounting the new cable bracket to the old hull bracket, the steering cable wouldn't be straight with the rudder attachment.

The cable bracket was purchased from Discount Inboard Marine (skidim.com) .

I think a simple solution is to unbolt the hull bracket and rotate it 180 degrees, drill a hole for the new cable mount. This will get your steering angle more inline with the rudder attachement....

wishart
07-04-2012, 12:01 AM
Finally have a few minutes to update the project....so here we go...


After the "test run" been working on "tweeking" a few things on the boat...


First... the boat was "singing" as it went through the water....

Thought it was the prop...so I ordered and installed one of OJ prop's fancy 4-blades.....OJ props thought this would be a good place to start also....(ofcourse...they wanted to sell me a $400 prop!!!!)....

OJ prop guys were really nice, and said that if their prop didn't solve the problem....they would "work with me"...


well....it didn't solve the problem!!! Boat is still singing at 2800-3000rpm.

but

I their fancy 4-blade did perform better!!! great/strong acceleration, and pulls up skiier nice and strong.....


what the hell....I'm keeping the prop....what's a few $$$$ at this point!!!!


Other team talk members feel the "singing" is from three skags under the boat....and I agree...

wishart
07-04-2012, 12:04 AM
oh yeah...also replaced all spedo "pickups"....and yes....there are 3 spedos in this boat!

someone mentioned that this boat may have been used in "competition skiing" at one point

wishart
07-04-2012, 12:07 AM
got the dual battery set up all working---using a "battery isolator" and a master on/off switch.

happy with the set up...NO PERKO SWITCH!!!

also welded up a custom aluminum front seat frame....no "dog leg" front seat now....

wishart
07-04-2012, 12:09 AM
I rebuilt all the wood seats with new "marine" plywood, and then sealed it all with my fiberglass epoxy!!!

wishart
07-04-2012, 12:12 AM
here are the seat rebuild pic's

wishart
07-04-2012, 12:26 AM
this took over 12 hours to complete!!!!!!

but it came out really nice!!

used my red poster paper to make a pattern of the entire boat floor, then transfered pattern to new carpet.

I when cutting pattern, I cut a few inches larger all the way around.

I carpeted the sides of the boat, then under the bow, and down the sides.

Glued the carpet down using one of my old paint spray guns and contact cement. I sprayed both the back of the carpet and the floor with the glue, and that carpet isn't going anywhere!!!!

Used about 1.5 gallons of glue!!!

Use your resperator...that stuff is strong!!!!

(I know my helper doesn't look too happy here....but...this is 2am....after almost a 20 hour work day....and 1.5 gallons of glue fumes in the air...!!!!)....she really was a big help....

wishart
07-04-2012, 12:34 AM
After all this hard work with the new floor, stringers, engine, etc....

I couldn't skimp on the upholstry.....


all "off white" (it's pretty white) marine vinyl...tuck-n-roll to simulate origional patterned look..


Great shop in San Jose California (Top Notch Upholstry)....will go back for all my interior needs.....


Fast turn around....and did some extras also....(booster for drivers seat, protective pad for the back seat)!!!

I installed the seats, etc...took the raw seats to shop...

I Installed hydraulic lifters to hold engine cover up also!!!! this was a great idea....works great.....

wishart
07-04-2012, 12:38 AM
a couple more pics...

figured out how to solve the "bumper" problem on these boats...

Found these cool little quick release deals....


the side neting is a cargo net from Pep boys auto parts...

also modified the side padded parts to encorporate speakers....

wishart
07-04-2012, 12:43 AM
out side shots....

New graphics from Jim at BAWS......thanks Jim......looks great....

pictures don't do it justice....the gel looks like new!!!

wishart
07-04-2012, 12:47 AM
few more....

Lake Tulloch California a couple weekends ago....first trip with the completed restoration......very exciting!!!!

wishart
07-04-2012, 01:12 AM
next...bimini top....

this is going to be tricky....don't want my s&s to have a covered wagon top on it....

like the sleek low lines of this boat...don't want them to be ruined by the top....would almost fry in the sun before that happens!!!!

I think a custom made one is the way to go...looking into a couple shops locally in the San Jose California area....


Someday a stereo....but low on the priority list right now...just anxious to go out and enjoy the boat right now!!!!

Lumbergh
07-04-2012, 10:48 AM
Awesome job!

Lotta time and love thrown into that S&S!

Shooter McKevin
07-04-2012, 11:31 AM
I think the interior color is absolutely perfect. Super fresh and clean looking. Your "it's pretty white" comment made me wonder if you thought it was too bright. The white decals and the cream gel are really brought together by the off white vinyl.

wishart
07-04-2012, 02:21 PM
I think the interior color is absolutely perfect. Super fresh and clean looking. Your "it's pretty white" comment made me wonder if you thought it was too bright. The white decals and the cream gel are really brought together by the off white vinyl.

I do agree...the color of the interior turned out great. The interior does have a nice fresh and clean look. All the colors...the tans, browns and creams all complement eachother perfect.

03geetee
07-04-2012, 02:24 PM
Looks incredible well done man well done!

JTR

mtajpa
07-04-2012, 03:18 PM
Could you tell me were you got the carpet from? Look exactly like what was in mine.

wishart
07-05-2012, 01:53 AM
Could you tell me were you got the carpet from? Look exactly like what was in mine.



http://www.corinthian-marine-carpet.com/


Had these guys send me a bunch of samples....very happy with the carpet....

gr82bgreen
07-06-2012, 04:59 PM
Awesome job!

Lotta time and love thrown into that S&S!

I agree. people just dont appreciate how much time and effort it takes to do it right. Really nice work.

mtajpa
07-06-2012, 08:47 PM
http://www.corinthian-marine-carpet.com/


Had these guys send me a bunch of samples....very happy with the carpet....

Thanks that is were I got my samples from and picked the same pattern just looks so much better when you see it installed.

Puff up your chest and strut when you take her out. This is an awsome looking boat and you are the one that brought this beauty back. MasterCraft should by this one back and put it in the factory as a show piece. :D:D

DH9441
07-08-2012, 11:21 AM
Where did you procure the engine cover vent?

wishart
07-09-2012, 08:37 PM
Where did you procure the engine cover vent?

1982 didn't have an engine cover vent (at least mine didn't). I think they started the vent in the engine cover a couple years later.

wishart
07-09-2012, 08:40 PM
Thanks for the complements gang.....


noticed from some of the pictures that I forgot to replace the "rub rail" (there is about a 4" section missing)..... I got distracted with the interior...and summer boating time....