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cwarndahl
01-05-2012, 04:22 PM
Hey guys
so a friend and i are gonna align my engine. i have seen many how to's on direct drive but non on a v-drive. looking for any suggestions or how to's.

the other project were are going to do is repacking the shaft log. this is under the engine any tips or tricks to this?

thanks in advance.

bturner2
01-06-2012, 11:59 AM
It's the same process just with the coupling in a slightly different position/location.

On the packing if you're already pulling the coupling apart you may want to consider putting in a dripless seal (http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1032). If you decide to stay with what you have (or decide to change out for a dripless shaft seal) get ready for tight quarters and also buy a set of V drive nut wrenches (http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WRENCH), you'll need them. These are shorter and purpose built for the tight quarters you'll be working in. Don't waste your money on the cheap adjustable wrench that's been offered for years. You'll also need a set of picks to pull the packing out with or some people will use a long thin drywall screw to help with removing the packing. You should be able to find some really good detailed articles on doing this here and on the web by googling the subject.

The last time I did this job I bought the special packing grease and the Teflon packing. When I sold the boat 7 years later the packing was still working great. The moral here is that if you're doing a PITA job as least use the best materials you can find. Good luck, let us know how you make out.

-V-
01-06-2012, 12:09 PM
two questions here;

1-how do you know if you need to align it or not

2-what is the diff (better or worse) between drip less vs norm?

bturner2
01-06-2012, 12:31 PM
Most people will recommend that alignment be checked every year as part of normal service. I usually have it checked when I buy a boat because I've always purchased used and want a base line to go by. After that I pretty much subscribe to the "if it ain't broke or causing problems don't fix it" mentality which has worked well for me over the past 20 years of MC ownership. Exceptions to this include contact to any object or the bottom that causes extensive damage to the running gear, strange vibrations or abnormal wear to the strut bearing. I know I'll get blasted on that last statement but the alignment shouldn't change unless some kind of force or mechanical event occurs.

Very simply put, packing is typically some type of rope like material that is placed around the shaft in the packing glad that is then tightened to the shaft to form a seal to control the amount of water water coming through the coupling. Tighten the rope too tight and you burn up the rope. Leave it too loose and the water pours in the boat. A dripless coupling will typically use a friction bearing to seal the shaft coupling and use water to cool the friction bearing. This is what is sold on all the new MCs leaving the plant today. The advantages (when all goes well) are very low maintenance and no water coming into the boat. Both systems work well. If you plan to keep this boat forever the dripless shaft seal may be worth considering. If you plan to keep it for only a couple years your best bet will probably be to just repack and get on with life.

cwarndahl
01-06-2012, 03:27 PM
well my mechanic suggested it. the story is that the nut that hold in my drive shaft came off last year resulting in a huge repair bill. texas ski ranch did the repairs including an alignment. 3 trip or about 4 hours later the nut cam of again. after fixing the nut myself it now stays on. how ever the drive shaft rests at the bottom of the hole seen in this photo.

Bturner2 thanks for the hot tip on the wrenches i will order today!!

cwarndahl
01-06-2012, 03:30 PM
oh the photo
BTW iu will keep this boat for awhile. i like it, its a good boat, not as nice as newer ones, but i bought this boat for 18,500 and only owe 10 on it. i have looked at some x-stars that are an 05, 06 and they go for 45k a little rich for my blood much less a new one. there real nice but some of them cost more then my house~!

ahhudgins
01-08-2012, 08:04 PM
well my mechanic suggested it. the story is that the nut that hold in my drive shaft came off last year resulting in a huge repair bill. texas ski ranch did the repairs including an alignment. 3 trip or about 4 hours later the nut cam of again. after fixing the nut myself it now stays on. how ever the drive shaft rests at the bottom of the hole seen in this photo.

Bturner2 thanks for the hot tip on the wrenches i will order today!!

My shaft was located off center when I purchased the boat. I removed the strut so I could replace the bushings and reseal the bolts/holes. When the shaft coupling is disconnected from the transmission coupling, there is a little play in the prop shaft and the strut bushings. I centered my shaft in the hole and then tightened down the bolts in the strut, this is easier with at least two people. Bring the two couplings together (loose) and check the gap between them in 4 places. My books says that the two are aligned when the gap is no more than .003 all the way around. I had to move my motor a little to get it lined up side to side, up and down was fine.

cwarndahl
01-09-2012, 03:34 PM
thanks Ahhudgins
thats more info then i have seen what books are you referring to would love a shop manual of some kind!

ahhudgins
01-10-2012, 07:30 PM
thanks Ahhudgins
thats more info then i have seen what books are you referring to would love a shop manual of some kind!

It's just the Owner's Manual for my Maristar 200VRS. Just basic information. I've owned 2 direct drive MCs and now I have a V-drive. My 95 V-drive has the same coupling setup as my other DDs, but some different models have a prop shaft that runs thru the gear box in some manner, so I can't help much with that setup. The manual doesn't tell you how to move the engine, but you can look at the mounts and do it with basic tools and a pry bar.

I do remember that I had very little room to work with when I did my alignment, and I may have uttered several four letter words (ok, a lot) before it was finished.

cwarndahl
01-14-2012, 11:45 AM
thanks again for the advice. I'm doing it today and will let you know how it goes.