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rangell
12-16-2011, 04:24 PM
I just purchased an 83' S&S and the swim platform brackets are removed and the holes are filled in with some hard silcone/calk. My question is are the fiberglass stringers on this boat hollow or solid fiberglass. I was thinking that i could drill the holes back out and into the stringer (if solid) and silcone in some long bolts to attach the swim platform brackets. Please help with any info. Thanks.

tph
12-16-2011, 04:57 PM
[QUOTE=rangell;806615]I just purchased an 83' S&S and the swim platform brackets are removed and the holes are filled in with some hard silcone/calk. My question is are the fiberglass stringers on this boat hollow or solid fiberglass. I was thinking that i could drill the holes back out and into the stringer (if solid) and silcone in some long bolts to attach the swim platform brackets. Please help with any info. Thanks.[/QUOTE

I don't think they are solid:

madcityskier
12-16-2011, 06:02 PM
Platform on my 85 has had bracket reinforced by placing a large aluminum backer plate on the inside of the transom and threading holes into it. Works pretty well.

Cloaked
12-16-2011, 08:20 PM
I just purchased an 83' S&S and the swim platform brackets are removed and the holes are filled in with some hard silcone/calk. My question is are the fiberglass stringers on this boat hollow or solid fiberglass. I was thinking that i could drill the holes back out and into the stringer (if solid) and silcone in some long bolts to attach the swim platform brackets. Please help with any info. Thanks.You'll need to cut the floor and use a backing plate and thru-bolt. I have posted pics of the entire process in several threads here. It has been my experience that the "fiberglass" stringers are a composite material that is covered with glass. Not a solid fiberglass stringer. Nothing but hype...

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rangell
12-17-2011, 10:18 AM
Cloaked,

When you cut that whole for the brackets, was it full of foam insulation? Also when you closed it back up did you refill/fill it with new foam insulation?

rangell
12-17-2011, 10:45 AM
Here are some pictures of what i am dealing with.

tph
12-17-2011, 02:36 PM
Here are some pictures of what i am dealing with.

It looks like the PO kept drilling new holes in the bracket and transom as the previous ones failed. You could grind everything down, make sure the old holes are watertight and use the "through hull" method referenced above. If you're careful you should be able to hide everything behind the bracket. Also, now would be the time to think about a removable or drop down bracket.

liledgy
12-17-2011, 02:48 PM
You could have wood stringers still in your 83, depending on when it was made. Do you have some angle iron that the motor mounts attach to? Do you have access to your bilge pump thru a small cubby hole in front of the pylon. Those are 2 items that fiberglass stringer boats had.

Cloaked
12-17-2011, 02:54 PM
It was not full of foam because of the year model. I saw a bit of foam from overfill of the required foam that was installed but not an underfloor full of foam. I am not sure where the idea of saturating a boat with foam originated, other than a law passed years ago that addressed the boating industry as a whole. Folks went overboard (mainly addressed for houseboats, as my family owned a commercial dock and that was big talk) and then at some point in time realized the true letter of the law and since have put only the required (calculated) amount of foam (square inch : ratio of size and application) amount in certain areas to reduce costs and ease of manufacturing (pure speculation and opinion) .

No need to refill with foam. That boat isn't going anywhere, realtive to what little foam you would replace (if you deemed necessary). It will float until you knock a hole in it really bad.. :D

That fix is on an 85 model. I would expect that if you cut into the floor you won't have any problems, once you're there. That is a fairly straight forward project. Don't sweat cutting into the floor. Perfect repair not required since your fuel cell sits over the area... I just put an oversized piece of plyboard, used resin to coat it (found at any auto / paint store or even Lowe's) and then shot a coat of paint over it. Nothing fancy at all... no need.

A word of caution is that you may have to find someone to do a little glass work if in fact the gel comes off on the bracket, but it looks like you have already gotten past the point of dread. This is the very reason that I never remove the brackets from the transom (unless absolutely necessary). I always remove the platform from the brackets. But then again, I rarely have the need to remove the platform. It gets pressure washed once a year... lol.... no need to pamper it with baby oil and lotion for me...

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Cloaked
12-17-2011, 02:59 PM
...... Those are 2 items that fiberglass stringer boats had.That is what I was addressing in a prior post.... the stringers are wood or composite covered with glass to waterproof them. I think they are not solid fiberglass. It's all hype. If I am wrong, I'll have to see a cut section to believe it... :D I have opened up a lot of floors in these old boats and have yet to see one that is solid glass. Not disputing your word but passing on what I have seen over the years....maybe the ones in these new-fangled boats are different but through the 85 models (of which I have dealt with) so far I have not seen any that are full x-section fibergalss. If someone knows this as a fact, I'd love to hear it and know for darn sure if I am incorrect. No big deal either way... It still starts and pulls skiers....

Most folks get lucky and never have an issue but sooner or later, something will need attention for stability.

To rangell:

Your pictures look fairly academic to what I have seen in the past. The lag screws are through the wood based transom.

When you do the repair, tilt your boat up as much as you can for several days and let any water drain to the back then use a fan for a few more days to dry it out before closing up the floor. Be sure and use silicone on all holes when closing. Drying and sealing the boat will be the life of your transom. Also make sure that you are not getting water in through the deck and the hull where they connect. A common place where water gets in easily when moving at low speeds and water rolls up into this area often unsealed or needs resealing. I'd remove the rub rail and go all around with sealant and then re-rivit the rub rail back in place. Easy to do. You do not have to lift the deck or break that connection, just remove the rail and seal with the deck in place. Use 100% silicone RTV sealant.

Also while you're there (with the center section of the floor out), replace your packing gland with graphite impregnated packing (another area for sealing or controlling water intrusion). A small amount of drip is required (to reduce the wear on the drive shaft) but nothing that will be unmanageable for keeping the boat dry where it counts.

You should consider wet sanding the hull while you have the platform off. That hull will come back to life with a few days of work.

And while you're there, consider replacing the speed-o pitot vanes, the hose going into the hull, and the speed-o tubes inside the boat. Now is the perfect time to do this. The new pitot vanes do not clog as readily as the original style.

Also give your rudder a shot of grease while you have the rear section of the floor out. And if you suspect a new steering cable, now is a good time to access that as well. You have the perfect opportunity to access all of these eventual needs now.

And don't overlook the exhaust hoses. Again, you're already there and they are easy to replace. I have seen a lot of these old connections and old hose clamps allow leaks at either end of the muffler. New hose and clamps are a good thing... use anti-sieze on the connections too.

And if the center section of the floor is weak or soft, cut a new piece of plyboad and coat it with the same resin that you work the repair area. Put in a new center section of the floor, while you're there.... new carpet is optional... :D


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tph
12-17-2011, 07:33 PM
If you look at the picture below you can see that there is not a traditional stringer. Instead there are internal and external angle iron sections closest to the motor box that are used to support the motor mounts.

rangell
12-18-2011, 03:07 PM
Thanks for all of the information. This morning I dove into it and I got the holes cut in the floor, cleaned out all the foam, and I think it is ready for the backer plates that I need to have made. I am a little nervous about covering the holes back up, i have never did fiberglass work before, but I will research a little for the best way to do it. Again thanks for all you help with the info that you guys have provided.

Cloaked
12-18-2011, 03:34 PM
Thanks for all of the information. This morning I dove into it and I got the holes cut in the floor, cleaned out all the foam, and I think it is ready for the backer plates that I need to have made. I am a little nervous about covering the holes back up, i have never did fiberglass work before, but I will research a little for the best way to do it. Again thanks for all you help with the info that you guys have provided.I'd not worry about fiber cloth application. Use the same cutout or cut a new piece of plyboard, coat it with fiberglass resin (I use the hardner for it too) and allow to dry then set it in place. Upon setting it over the hole (in lieu of a perfect fit, your call) use resin as a glue as the resin will dry and secure the patch. If you prefer, you can also add a few drywall fasteners through the patch into the floor (thus the oversize for me). Coat over it with resin, allow to dry overnight and spray paint it. It's never going to be seen anyway. That is what you are looking at in the pics I posted. Nothing fancy at all. The fuel cell covers it up... :D